USA > Vermont > The history of Vermont; with descriptions, physical and topographical > Part 12
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Nothing more need be added to what has been said in another part of this work respecting the high standing of the courts of justice in Vermont. For more than thirty years the writer has enjoyed the privilege of occasionally witnessing their proceedings; and a great one, as a spectator, he has esteemed it. What then must be the sensations of those, who have had their dearest rights
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and enjoyments, attacked and periled by the lawless, here protected ; and the oppressor restrained and rebuked. It is difficult to separate the able and upright judge from the philanthropist ; the friend and lover of his fellow man. Of such a justice, and judge, Job has given a description, for strength and beauty unrivaled. "I delivered the poor that cried, and the fatherless, and him that had none to help him. The blessing of him that was ready to perish came upon me, and I caused the widow's heart to sing for joy. I put on righteousness, and it clothed me; my judgment was as a robe and a diadem. I was eyes to the blind, and feet was I to the lame. I was a father to the poor ; and the cause which I knew not, I searched out ; and I brake the jaws of the wicked, and plucked the spoil out of his teeth."
To the names of United States senators already given may be added those of Smith, Seymour, Chase and Swift, in whose hands the interests and honor of the state and nation were safe, and advanced. The present occupants of that distinguished and responsible post are Samuel Prentiss and Samuel S. Phelps. In 1846, Samuel S. Phelps and William Upham. To speak particularly of their claims to the respect and honor of the country would be premature and improper, as their course is yet to be finished ; and at a day, it is hoped, not soon to come. But to say that their standing in that body is high, as was that of their predecessors would be as just as it is reputable to themselves and the state, which they represent.
For Americans look with pleasure and feelings, so to
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speak, of self-gratulation to the senate of the United States. The scenes witnessed in it; the character of its members ; the wisdom manifested ; the talents and acquirements exhibited ; the eloquence heard and the vehemence of debate and discussion displayed have rendered it a favorite branch of our government ; an object of veneration and cherished regard to the great body of our citizens. In a civil and national point of view, they regard it as the pride and glory of their land ; and to reach it by meritorious qualifications is the height of ambition, and the summit of political distinction.
Nothing in the annals of Carthagenian and Roman history is examined with more interest than the deeds done in their senate chambers; the measure of high purpose there originated and matured ; the breathings of patriotism ; the beating pulse of liberty and independ- ence ; the defiance of tyranny and the resistance of oppression, and the blood-shed of proud usurpers. These also have the advantage which time long passed sheds around the deeds and men of antiquity, by increasing the interest and veneration which we feel for them. But time is also tending her softening and sacred influence to enshrine in our hearts, the place where stood the lead- ing actors in the drama of a nation's struggle for being and freedom. Soon three score years and ten will count their days since the period, which paved the way for that senate chamber, which has always been filled with the strong minds of the nation ; but latterly has . rivaled if not eclipsed, in her Clay, and Webster, and Calhoun, and others, the best days of Grecian and Roman and
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Britain's oratory. No small credit then to Vermont that her senators have sustained the high standing of that august body, and tarnished not the evergreens, which, so to speak, adorn the coat of arms of their own state. The light of christianity; its elevating and restraining and warming influence now give a charm and pathos to senatorial eloquence and the proceedings of legislative assemblies, which the ancients did not enjoy. It is indeed to be lamented that its rules and spirit do not have a more extensive and general conservative effect and sway in such places !
The population of Vermont has increased rapidly. From 1790 to 1800, the increase was sixty-nine thousand ; the number at the former period being about eighty-five and at the latter one hundred and fifty-four thousand. In 1840, the inhabitants numbered 291,948; being an increase in fifty years of 206,532 ; far greater than that of any other of the New England States except Maine. It is almost five times faster progress in this way than that made by her flourishing neighbors of the granite state from whom she purchased her lands. The number of inhabitants in the latter in 1790 was 141,899; and now is 284,754 ; making a difference of only 42,855 in fifty years. Looking at the census of the United States, you see the difference in the population of Connecticut, the same period, only 71,807 ; about one third of that of Vermont. These facts speak favorably in behalf of her soil and institutions and general prosperity ; and of the good report she is gaining in the estimation of her sister states and neighbors.
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Within this period many new townships have been granted and settled; and some large towns divided into two. From seventy, the number of towns has run up to about two hundred and fifty.
In looking back from 1842 to 1790, the eye sees many marks of improvement and general, progressive prosperity. The dark forest has given way, and let in the rays of the sun. The reign of the wilderness has been turned back from the rivers and vallies and lakes to the mountains. The dead trunks " with singed tops," standing frequent on the lawn or hill-side, like the naked masts of ships and water craft at anchor have disappeared in many parts ; and are fast going out of sight. The stumps and far spreading roots, have been drawn up and the surface smoothed over. The eye is no more pained at the sight of the lofty sugar maple, girdled and wither- ing in the sun ; or of fallen timber and logs of the first growth ; decaying, and disfiguring your prospect ; imped- ing and turning aside your feet. The underbrush and the windfalls are cleared away ; and the hillocks leveled down, and cavities filled. The plow and the roller ; the scythe and the sickle have followed the axe and the fire. Undulating the surface is of course ; and often gradually rising into large swells, but now made smooth by the hand of man ; it presents the fruits of cultivation and industry, beautiful to the eye, and cheering to the heart. Where growled the bear and howled the wolf and gnashed the catamount, are seen the gambols of domestic flocks and herds. The sugar orchard, and wood-lot, near the premises, sufficient for fuel and the
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purposes of buildings, and fences being reserved, all else around wears the appearance of old settlements. Orna- mented trees ; the mountain ash and fir are beginning to adorn the front yards ; and the elm and spruce the road- side ; and the public greens and squares of villages. You see the signs of youth and vigor approaching maturity ; the improvements of time without his rust and the inroads of his envious tooth.
So it is in a measure with regard to their buildings, and the improvements of their villages. The log and hasty tenements of early days ; the hovels and barracks for the wintering of their herds and flocks have given place to neat, substantial, convenient, well-finished houses and barns. The Vermonters manifest good taste in their dwellings, and arrangements around their premises ; shaping them for use, rather than for appearance ; making them correspond with place and climate, and their own circumstances. They finish as far as they go, if in a plain, yet, a manner strong and comfortable.
Perhaps the burlesque picture of a young married New Englander's beginning life in a huge unfinished "shell" of a house, published by some merry writer at the south, was a hint wisely improved by them. Cer- tain it is, that you seldom see over-grown, half-finished tenements among them. Simplicity and symmetry characterize their domestic establishments. A large house with one side of the roof running almost down to the ground, and the other stopping at the garret floor of the second story, would be as great a novelty in Vermont, as an ancient Connecticut sleigh, which is
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sometimes seen straying up country, attracting a crowd around it at the inn.
Such is the contrast between the appearance of things in this respect in this state now, and in the days of its early settlement. It is great and striking. It has been the result of time; and the judicious persevering efforts of its inhabitants. The Divine blessing has been eminently bestowed on this people, preserving them comparatively from the ravages of war, the devastations of fires, and the visitations of epidemic, and mortal distempers.
This difference is seen fully by those only whose memory can go back to the days of Gov. Chittenden and his compatriots. Some such survive ; but their number is small. It is a privilege to hear them point out the great changes which have taken place ; but one that cannot long be enjoyed. They have been gradual, but imperceptible, like the ravages of time ; and seen after stated intervals, and to the best advantage after a lapse of half a century. It is then like a prospect from the summit of the green mountains, impressive and absorbing.
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CHAPTER XIII.
Villages .- Increase of their numbers .- Growth .- Exemplified .- Brattleboro .- Contrast of thirty or forty years .- Its situation .- Public buildings .- View of it from the burying ground .- Typographic Co .- Early settlers .- First bridge over the Con- necticut .- Members of congress .- Its first clergyman .- Dum- merston .- Putney .- Westminster .- Some account of it .- Its part in the early history of the state .- Members of congress .- Rev. Lemuel Haynes .- Monument .- Bellows Falls .- Contrast between it and Westminster .- Curiosity of the falls .- Crossing the mountain .- Bennington .- Some particulars of it .- Its early history .- Antiquity .- Head quarters .- Its founders .- Centre. -Burying-ground .- East village .- Furnace .- Hinsdale vil- lage .- General improvement and prosperity .- Pleasantness .- Gov. Tichener.
IN the multiplication and growth of villages, changes and improvements are visible and striking. Their number has been greatly augmented in the lapse of fifty or sixty years. Hamlets and small clusters of buildings were all that could then be seen in the most favored portions of the state. Now neat, thriving villa- ges, and groups of buildings are interspersed its whole length and breadth, along the margin of its rivers and streams ; in many a valley and on some of its hill-sides and tops. In those which were commenced at that period,
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the increase and alterations in many instances have been such, that little resemblance now can be traced back to their origin.
As an exemplification of this remark, Brattle- boro might be named. The writer remembers when one tavern, a plain, upright, ordinary dwelling; two stores ; a printing office, here and there a mechanic shop, and a few houses along the level flat, now the principal street, were the most that could be seen, or made of it, as to its exterior. Now one splendid stage- tavern, and two ample hotels ; about fifteen stores ; four houses of public Divine worship; one bank, a high school; extensive printing establishment ; numerous machine shops and factories are found in it. The main street has been thickly set with houses, some of them highly elegant and tasteful. The current of business flowing south to ' the creek ;' along its banks and up the adjacent hill, has crowded the uneven ground so com- pactly with buildings that they appear at a distance to , be thrown one upon another, like the lime stone rocks sometimes seen on the sides of the green mountains. But this irregularity renders the appearance not less, but more interesting. Southerly and westerly also its limits have been extended far with tenements in close order ; and on the rising ground toward West Brattleboro, making a fine appearance, having doubled ten times, perhaps, the space occupied thirty-five years since, and twenty times the number of buildings, and propor- tionally its population. .
Having thus named this village for the illustration of
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a remark relative to the villages of the state generally, it may be permitted, it is hoped, here to add, that the best view of it at one glance is from the burying ground, on the summit of the hill south. The main travel used formerly to go directly by it; but improvements have ·turned it to the right. If then you would enjoy the en- chanting prospect from it; so highly commended by Professor Silliman, in his tour to Canada, you must ascend the hill. It is a consecrated spot, and you will be richly repaid for the toil; and in self-communion amid the mementos of your predecessors to eternity, and emblems of mortality, your spirit may be benefited. The next most eligible direction from which to view it, is the New Hampshire side of the river, as you come down the stage road from Chesterfield. Indeed here is presented the most comprehensive view of it, if less distinct, not the less attractive ; mellowed, and enriched, so to speak, by the distance and by its alternate coming to and going from your eyes, as you pass the hills and vallies ; the openings and thickets of West mountain river road. If along this sequestered route, your ride should be in November, after the frost had changed the leafy honors of the forest, into ten thousand various hues and tinges of color, inimitable to art and indiscri- bable ; contrasting with the hum of business and busy abodes of men, the beautiful and significant scenery around you must interest your feelings, if not penetrate your heart.
The approach to this village by the three great roads
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on the Vermont side ; north, south and west, is so over- shadowed by hills and woodlands, and windings of the road, that it breaks upon your view at once. The stranger from the south especially, might begin to think he had missed his way. He saw no suburbs, and no appearance of the expected village, till his doubts were removed by the white spire of the church running up alone amid the green foliage, and glittering in the sun, a harbinger of rest to the weary, and pointing homeward the pilgrim.
Brattleboro has not the advantage of overlooking the surrounding country, and of extensive prospects enjoyed by elevated situations. Between it and Burlington the contrast in this respect is almost perfect. Both afford the highest pleasure in contemplation ; but in a different way. This is the great secret of the unfailing enjoy- ment experienced in visiting such regions as Vermont ; the almost endless variety and contrariety of scenery ; ever varying and diversified prospects. If one place more than another is better adapted to satisfy Cowper's character of man, it is such a district :
" Various that the mind Of desultory man, studious of change, And pleased with novelty, may be indulged."
Burlington has been described in another place as unrivaled in its prospects, elevated and majestic. Brat- tleboro in the other transverse extreme of the state, is almost concealed by the surrounding mountains and hills,
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in a sequestered, winding valley, lying in part on the very bank of the Connecticut ; beautiful and far-famed river, of which it has been said in poetry,
" Nor drinks the sea a lovelier wave than thine."
Leaving that bank, it winds it way up one upland ridge and level after another, and between the hills and the creek passing through it, it spreads over a surface of almost boundless variety of shapes and picturesque as- pects. On its northwest border, runs along toward the very centre, a beautiful white oak ridge, whose trees afford a cool retreat from the heat of summer ; and a protection from the blasts of winter. West mountain overhangs the opposite bank of the river; an impressive spectacle as the night-fall throws her shades, and as the moon sheds her mellowed light around it. These and many other similar things, which need seeing to be enjoy- ed ; the walks and scenery up and down the Connecticut, and the contiguous West river, render it a place pecu- liarly attractive. Such is the testimony, it is believed, of candid travelers who visit it.
Its situation is also favorable in a business point of view, being facile of approach to the surrounding coun- try, heavy articles of produce flowing easily down the valley of West river ; and the adjoining, fertile hills. Much profitable intercourse comes readily to it along both banks, and on the surface of the river. It is thus a business, flourishing place ; presaging still greater future prosperity and distinction ; and affords a speci-
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men, not inadequate at any rate, of the first class of Vermont villages. The inhabitants also furnish a fair sample, as in other respects, so of the enterprise and resources found in them.
Here justice requires a passing notice of the printing establishment in this place. Its most extensive opera- tions were under the direction and supervision of four individuals of this village ; two by the name of Fessen- den, father and son; and two by that of Holbrook, brothers. Their works were extensive, complicated, and costly. They manufactured their own paper; and by steam engines when in drouth, water failed them ; worked their printing presses by water, and had their own bindery. They projected the works to be published, selected their own writers and compilers, and took their own way in the publication and sale of them. The founts of type and stereotype ; of plates and engravings, emblems and maps were devised and looked up by themselves. They chose their own artists, mechanics and laborers. In short, their works were on a scale more extensive, and important in their effects and results than those of any other similar establishment in the country. Their publications are of the first order ; standard works, heavy and expensive.
The most extensive of their works is the Comprehen- sive Commentary on the Holy Scriptures; edited by William Jenks, D. D .; compiled principally from Henry, Scott, and Doddridge ; consisting of six volumes, including the supplement, of about eight hundred pages each, large royal octavo, of closely printed matter ;
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with plates and engravings. The original plan of pub- lishing it was one volume a year by subscription. Be- fore this plan was wholly effected, a company was incor- porated by act of legislature, called " The Brattleboro Typographic Company." This was accomplished in a measure through the instrumentality of John C. Hol- brook, who was the first president of the company. In this way, the contemplated work has been happily completed.
The other large works published at this establishment are the Polyglott Bible ; and the Encyclopedia of Religious Knowledge, and Bush's Scripture Illustrations. These all are of the same sized page with the Commen- tary ; the first two containing about thirteen hundred closely printed pages, each with many plates and engrav- ings. The Encyclopedia was projected by the above named gentleman ; and as a book of reference, contain- ing a measureless source of useful knowledge, and religious biography, is unrivaled, and more popular as a religious work, with the exception of the Bible, than any one perhaps in the world. As an assistant in Sabbath schools, to teachers and scholars, it is beyond all price ; and the want of something like it, experienced by the publisher, in preparing himself for his class, suggested the plan of the work. But under the pressure of their heavy and complicated undertakings, embarrassed in their operations by the changes and difficulties of the times, he with his companions failed in their means and resources. His is the consolation however, of failing in a good cause. It is moreover true that they failed in an
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enterprise, in which every one cannot ; nay, in which few can fail ; for few can project and mature and carry through, for they have seen them through ; operations requiring such comprehensive vigor of mind, and perse- verance and devotion of heart. On whatever current of life, then, their bark may have been subsequently tossed, whatever inroads sickness and death may have made in the domestic sanctuary, they may reflect that their labors, by the Divine blessing, may long confer gifts, which cannot be purchased with money. It is no small com- mendation, that Professor Silliman should say, as he did to the writer, " that the mechanical execution of their works was an honor to their country." Improvements even, in this department have since been made, and are still making.
A substantial bridge here connects Vermont with New Hampshire. In the early construction of bridges over the Connecticut, the completion of one was thought a feat, as it was, of sufficient importance for a public meet- ing upon it as a kind of trial, if no more, of its strength and examination of its workmanship. This example was followed here when the first bridge, some fifty or sixty years ago was erected ; and a distinguished barrister of the village was requested to deliver an oration on the occasion. He made preparation and had so well pos- sessed himself of his subject as he thought that he omitted to take with him his manuscript. The villagers, and the inhabitants from the neighborhood assembled. A new cart, decorated, was drawn by a pair of sturdy oxen to the centre of the bridge as the speaker's plat-
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form. The orator mounted the cart. All was silence and expectation. But whether from the sight of the water far below him, or some other cause, and what, is unknown, and probably like other similar occurrences, will remain unaccountable, he seemed to hesitate, stammer ; lose his
self-possession and recollection. The oxen becoming somewhat restive added to his embarrassment. After two or three abortive attempts to get under-way, with, " gentlemen, hem ! fellow citizens !- hem !- hem ! twenty years ago, hem ! just twenty years ago-these two-two empires, pointing to New Hampshire and Vermont ; states he could not think of .- By this time, some wag cried out, 'she cracks,' which produced as much confusion to compare small things with great, as the celebrated panic at Waterloo, sauve qui peut ; save himself who can ; and the orator was said to have been among the first to clear himself from the bridge. When reminded of that transaction by his brethren of the bar, his only answer was ; " All I know about it is, I had a good oration, but could not remember a word of it."
Rev. Abner Reeve was the first minister of the town of Brattleboro, whose house of worship was two miles west of the river. He was from Connecticut, and the father of the celebrated judge Reeve, of Litchfield, in that state. Sargent, Arms, Church, Stewart, and Knight, are among the names of the first settlers. James Elliott, John Noyes, and Jonathan Hunt, while inhabitants of the town, were representatives in congress from this state. They are dead ; the latter of whom died at Washington,
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but his body was brought home for burial. Tyler, Knowlton, and Knight, were judges of the superior court.
Going up the river in this county, in Dummerston, you find Kathan and Miller; in Putney, Sabin and Keyes ; in Westminster, Bradley, Spooner, and Richards, among the names of the first settlers in those towns. The last named place was one of the most conspicuous in the early history of the state ; and must have made rapid progress in population and improvements. Indeed for those fond of agricultural and rural pursuits, free from the noise and bustle of factories ; the whirl of machinery ; the grating of files and saws, few situations can be found more eligible and delightful. It has no water privileges ; but is a town almost exclusively of farmers. The land on the river is level and fertile, easy of cultivation. The main street, more than a mile long, broad and pleasant, crossed midway by a steep ridge, dividing the village into two plats, upper and lower, is adorned at considerable intervals between, with neat, comely residences. It has furnished three members of congress, the elder and younger Bradley, and Mark Richards, the last two of whom survive ; the last at a great age, having been hon- ored also with the lieutenancy of the state. Of senator Bradley, past events have called elsewhere for a more particular account. He was a native of Connecticut, as also lieutenant Gov. Richards. A plain tomb stone stands in the grave yard here, commemorative of the death of William French, the circumstances of which have been before narrated. The following is a literal copy of the
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