USA > Washington > An illustrated history of the state of Washington, containing biographical mention of its pioneers and prominent citizens > Part 35
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102 | Part 103 | Part 104 | Part 105 | Part 106 | Part 107 | Part 108 | Part 109 | Part 110 | Part 111 | Part 112 | Part 113 | Part 114 | Part 115 | Part 116 | Part 117 | Part 118 | Part 119 | Part 120 | Part 121 | Part 122 | Part 123 | Part 124 | Part 125 | Part 126 | Part 127 | Part 128 | Part 129 | Part 130 | Part 131 | Part 132 | Part 133 | Part 134 | Part 135 | Part 136 | Part 137 | Part 138 | Part 139 | Part 140 | Part 141 | Part 142 | Part 143 | Part 144 | Part 145 | Part 146 | Part 147 | Part 148 | Part 149 | Part 150 | Part 151 | Part 152 | Part 153 | Part 154 | Part 155 | Part 156 | Part 157 | Part 158 | Part 159
Before leaving Walla Walla Colonel Wright called a council of the Nez Perces, and concluded with them a treaty of friendship, binding them to assist the United States in wars with any other tribes, and binding the United States to assist them in like cases at the cost of the Govern- ment, and also pledging the United States to furnish their arms whenever their services were required. Though this treaty was signed by only a part, and not the most influential, of the Nez Perce chiefs, yet it had a good effeet in detaching the greater part of that powerful tribe from the hostile coalition, and securing a com- pany of thirty, Nez Perce volunteers during the campaign. These were dressed in United States uniform, and placed under the command of Lieutenant John Mullan to act as guides and scouts.
On the 7th of August Captain Keyes, with the Third Artillery, led the advance from Walla Walla toward Snake River, which was reached on the 11th at the mouth of the Tucan- non. Here a fort was built and called Fort Taylor, in honor of Captain Taylor, who was killed at the battle of "Steptoe's Butte."
On the 18th Colonel Wright arrived, and on the 25th the crossing of Snake river was begun, and was completed on the morning of the 26th. The march of the column northward was over an open and rathier desolate country,-at this season of the year quite difficult to traverse on account of the scarcity of water. On the 29th, however, the troops entered the scattering pine forests that stray down into the plains from the western and southern slopes of the Coeur d' Alene mountains. On the evening of the 30th, after a long day's march, just as camp was formed, the Nez Perce scouts brought intelligence of the approach of a large body of Spokanes, evidently a reconnoissance from some larger force in the neighborhood. The dragoons were
293
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
sent forward, but . the Indians retreated before them. The troops had not marehed far on the 31st before parties of hostile Indians appeared on the surrounding hills, but, though some shots were fired, no serious attack was made. According to Indian taetics these small parties were decoys, designed to lead the troops on to where the main party had ehosen their ground ahead in a strong position for attack. Just before reaching camp for the night, the Indians rode np near the column and made a rather spirited attack on the rear guard. The troops met the attack skillfully, and the Indians re- treated.
The next day, September 1st, ocerred what is known as the "Battle of the Four Lakes." Colone! Wright had designed resting his eom- mand here for a few days, and had encamped accordingly. It was a beautiful spot, delight- fully inviting to repose. The "Four Lakes," one of which is the famed "Medical Lake," are beautiful bodies of water of from a quarter of a muile to a mile in diameter, embosomed in the hills, whose sides and summits are sprinkled with pines, beyond which to the west streteh- es away an unlimited sweep of grassy prairies. The Indians, however, had been awaiting him here, and did not feel disposed to delay their warlike welcome. The morning found their numbers multiplied. Their manner was defiant and insolent; and no one knows better how to be insolent and insulting in look and word and action than an Indian. So, at eight o'eloek, Colonel Wright issued orders to have the artil- lery battalion in readiness, as it might be called out at a moment's notice. Shortly afterward the whole foree was ealled into position, and order- ed to drive the enemy from the hills. This was soon done, and the Indians concentrated on the open plain below and to the westward, prepared to receive the attack of the soldiers in their own way of rude warfare. A participant in the battle, Lieutenant Kip, thus describes the scene:
"On the plain below us we saw the enemy. Every spot seemed alive with the wild war.
riors we had come so far to meet. They were in the pines on the edge of the lakes, in the ravines and gullies, on the opposite hillsides, and swarming over the plain. They seemed to cover the country for some two miles. Mounted on their fleet, hardy horses, the crowd swayed back and forth brandishing their weap- ons, shonting their war cries, and keeping up a song of defiance. Most of them were armed with Hudson Bay muskets, while others had bows and arrows and long lanees. They were in all the bravery of their war array, gandily painted and decorated with their wild trappings. Their plumes fluttered above them, while be- low skins and trinkets and all kinds of fan- tastie embellishments flaunted in the sunshine. Their horses, too, were arrayed in the most glar- ing finery. Some were even painted, and with colors to forin the greatest contrast, the white being smeared with erimson in fantastie figures, and the dark-colored streaked with white elay. Beads and fringes of gaudy colors were hanging from their bridles, while the plumes of eagle's feathers, interwoven with the mane and tail, finttered as the breeze swept over them, and completed their wild and fantastie appearance.
"By Heavens ! it was a glorious sight to see The gay array of their wild chivalry."
As ordered, the troops moved down the hill toward the plain. As the line of advance eame within range of the minie rifles, now for the first time used in Indian warfare, the firing began. The fire grew heavier as the line drew nearer, and, astonished at the range and effectiveness of the fire, the entire array of dusky warriors broke and fled toward the plain. The dragoons were now ordered to charge and rode through the company intervals to the front, and then dashed down upon the foe with head- long speed. Taylor's and Gaston's companies were there, and soon they reaped a red revenge for their slain heroes. The flying warriors streamed out of the glens and ravines and over the open plain until they could find a refuge from the flashing sabers of the dragoons. When
294
HISTORY OF WASHIINGTON.
they had found the refuge of the wooded hills the line of foot once more passed the dragoons and renewed their fire, driving the Indians over the hills for about two miles, where a halt was ordered as the troops were nearly exhausted. The Indians had almost all disappeared, a single group only remaining apparently to watch the whites. A shell fired from a howitzer bursting over their heads sent them also to the refuge of the ravines. Thus the battle ended. The In- dian loss was considerable, probably not less than fifty or sixty killed and wounded, while, strange to say, not a soldier was injured. This was owing to the use, now for the first time. of the long-range rifle by the soldiers. The Indians were panic-struck at the effect of their fire at such great distances. Among the Indians killed were a brother and brother-in-law of Gearry, the head chief of the Spokanes.
For three days Wright rested his troops in camp near the field of battle. On the 5th of September the column resumed its march to- ward the Spokanes, and in five miles he came again upon the Indians, collected in large num- bers on the plain, as if meditating an attack. They rode along parallel to the troops for some distance, all the while increasing in number and in boldness. As the column advanced the Indians set fire to the grass which burned with great fierceness, the wind blowing it toward the troops. Under cover of the smoke the In- dians spread themselves ont like a fan before and on either side of the troops. The pack train was closed up under guard of Captain Dent's company of rifles, the Third Artillery under Lieutenants Ihris and Howard and David- son's company of dragoons, while the rest of the command prepared to repulse the enemy. Four companies of the Third Artillery were at once deployed on the right and left. The men, flushed with the results of the last battle, dashed through the flames, charged and drove the enemy before them. A chief, who had up- on the saddle of his horse the pistol used by Lieutenant Gaston in the Steptoe Butte fight, was killed. At length the Indians were driven
into the plain, where the dragoons under Lieu- tenant Pender and Major Grier charged and swept the field. The flying stragglers gathered in groups in the surrounded forests, but these were easily dispersed, and the troops moved forward, with flankers thrown out, toward the Spokane river, where the troops encamped, having marched during the day twenty-five miles, the last fourteen miles fighting all the way.
Five hundred Indians were engaged in this battle, called the Battle of Spokane Plains. Quite a number of Indians were killed, and Kamiakin, the great war chief of the Yakimas, was wounded. On the 6th the forces remained in camp on the Spokane, but on the 7th moved up the river a few miles, and camped just above Spokane Falls. Soon after the forces had camp- ed Gearry crossed the river and came into the camp to have a talk with Colonel Wright. He professed to be opposed to the war, but claim- ed that he could not control his men. This was probably true, but Colonel Wright adminis- tered a very plain talk to him, and told him to communicate to all the Indians he should fall in with what he had said. He also ordered him to send a messenger at once to Moses and Big Star, other Spokane chiefs, to bring in their people, and to return to-morrow with his own people at an hour after sunrise. If they and their people were tired of war and wanted peace he would give them peace, if they would bring everything they had,-arms, women and children, -- and lay them at his feet. On the same day Palatkin, a noted Spokane chief, who had been in the fight against Steptoe, and also in those of the first and fifth, came into the camp. To him Wright repeated what he had said to Gearry, and, as he was known to have been a leader in the recent battles, he was detained as a hostage, while he sent a warrior to bring in his people.
On the 8th the march was resumed. In about nine miles the Indians were overtaken, driving all their horses into the mountains, instead of surrendering them as they had promised. These were all captured by the troops, and on the
295
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
following day, after selecting 130 of them for the service of the troops, the rest were shot. They belonged to Tilkohitz, a Palouse chief and a notorious freebooter, and it was not only an aet of just retribution to him, but one fully de- served by all the tribes to thus deprive them of the means of making war upon the whites.
These battles, with the destruction of their horses, and the hanging of several Indians who had been engaged in the murders of the whites throughout the country, completely broke the spirit of the Indians. Colonel Wright appointed a council to be held at the Cœur d' Alene mis- sion on the 17th. Vincent, who had not been in the recent battles, made the tour of his people and urged them to come in, but at first most refused, being terrified at what they had heard of the severity of Colonel Wright. But Wright released Palatkin, which act of elemeney allayed the fears of the Indians, and by the time ap- pointed for the council the Conr d' Alenes and Spokanes were prepared to enter into a treaty of entire submission to the whites. The details of the council it is not necessary to give.
A council with the Spokanes was appointed for the 23d of September. To this Kamiakin was specially invited, bat being fearful that Colonel Wright would take him to Walla Walla if he did, he remained away, as did also Tilko- hitz, one of the most relentless of the enemies of the whites.
Kamiakin was for years the ablest and mnost influential chieftain among all these tribes. He was head chief of the Yakimas, his mother hav- ing been a Yakima and his father a Palouse. He was talented, and seemed to occupy the place with these tribes that Tecumseh did with the tribes of Ohio and the Northwest. He strongly opposed the cession of the lands of the Indians at the council of Walla Walla, and Governor Stevens was unable to move him from his gloomy opposition. He was the leader in the outbreak that took place soon after, when Haller's force was defeated, and was withont doubt the lead- ing spirit in the combination of the present season. It was not strange, therefore, that he
was afraid to put himself in the power of the whites. Soon after this time Kamiakin went to British Columbia, where he remained some yer rs but about ten years later he returned to the Palonse country and settled on the Palouse river, a few miles below Colfax, where he died poor and friendless about 1880. Owhi and Qualchien were now the only chiefs of importance left among the Yakimas. Owhi was brother-in-law of Kamiakin, and Qualchien was Owhi's son, and also son-in-law of Palatkin, the Spokane chief. With Kamiakin, Owhi and Qualchien still at large, and maintaining their old antago- nism to the whites, there could be little hope of permanent peace, and Colonel Wright was con- cerned at their attitude. Bnt on the evening of the 23d Owhi came into eamp. Colonel Wright met him sternly. While he was conversing with the chieftain he ordered a file of soldiers, with iron shackles, to be brought. He then directed the interpreter to inquire of Owhi the where_ abouts of Qualchien. Owhi replied that he was at the mouth of the Spokane. "Tell Owhi," said the Colonel, "that I will send a message to Qualchien. Tell him that he too shall send a message, and if Qualehien does not join me be- fore I cross Snake river, in four days, I will hang Owhi."
When this message was delivered to Owhi he sank to the ground and seemed to lose all con- trol over himself. He took out a book of prayers, and in much confusion turned over its leaves for a moment, and then handed it to the priest, Father Joset, who was standing by him. Ile was then taken off by the guard and put in irons.
The following day about noon, very un- expectedly, two Indian braves and a fine-looking squaw came trotting out of a canon near the camp, and, with the utmost boldness, rode directly up to Colonel Wright's tent. They were gaily dressed and had a most dashing air. The two braves carried rifles, and one had an ornamented tomahawk. When the Colonel came out of the tent, to his surprise he recognized, in the leader of the party, Qualchien. For a few moments Qualchien stood talking with the
226
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
Colonel, with his rifle standing by his side. Ilis bearing was defiant, and those who were stand- ing near thought that he meditated murder even there. In a short time Colonel Wright men- tioned Owhi's name. Qualchien started, and in- quired, "Car Owhi?"-that is, "Where is Owhi?" the Colonel answered, "Owhi mitlite yawa;"-or "Owhi is over there." Qualchien was stunned. He repeated to himself mechanic- ally, "Owhi mitlite yawa? Owhi mitlite yawa," at the same time gazing about as if to find him. By this time a guard of soldiers had arrived and he was at once disarmed and taken to the guard tent.
Physically Qualehien was a splendid man. He had a broad chest, muscular limbs, with small hands and feet, and it required six men to tie his hands and feet, so violent was his struggles- Colonel Wright's dealing with Qualchien was summary. Fifteen minutes after his capture the officer of the day received an order to have him hung immediately. A file of the guard at once marched him to a neighboring tree, when, on attempting to fix the noose about his neck the contest was again renewed. He struggled violently, cursing Kamiakin, and shrieking, "Copet six. Wake memaloose nika. Nika pot- lach hiyu chickamen, liyu kuitan. Spose nika
memaloose, nika hiyu siwash silex. Copet six." Interpreted, it is: " Stop, my friends. Do not kill me. I will give much money and a great many horses. If you kill me a great many of my people will be very angry." But the rope was thrown over a limb of the tree and he was run up. His last words were a curse upon Kamiakin, whom he seemed to connect with his death. Not unlikely Kamiakin sent him into camp. A few days after this, while the army was on the march back to Walla Walla, Owhi, who was taken along as prisoner, attempted to escape from his guard and he was shot.
The death of Owhi and Qualchien, with the other results of Colonel Wright's campaign, completely dismayed the Indians of Eastern Washington. They were, next to Kamiakin, the most influential of all the chiefs, and by all comparison the most warlike and murderous.
It is not necessary to follow the operations of the army in the northwest further. This closed the war; and it also elosed the era of real Indian wars in Washington. Though these tribes re- mained comparatively strong, and there yet remain many of the Yakimas and Spokanes and Nez Perces, yet they had learned the power of white man and were content henceforth to re- main in peace with him.
OLYMPIA AND HARBOR.
-
227
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
CHAPTER XXXII.
PRINCIPAL CITIES OF WASHINGTON.
OLYMPIA.
CITIES -TYPES OF STATES-OLYMPIA-SKETCH OF GENERAL I. I. STEVENS-DR. N. OSTRANDER.
T HE history of any State is finally crystal- lized in its cities. Its strongest personali- ties naturally congregate there. In nearly every State one city becomes the type and representative of the State itself. Chicago is Illi- nois. San Francisco is California. Portland is Oregon. This is less true in Washington than in any other Pacifiic State. Its vast area, its widely differentiated conditions east and west, its vast diversity of pursuit,-have up to this time prevented any one point so far outstripping all others as to make it alone typical of the his- tory or condition of all. In writing of the cities of the State, therefore, we have chosen to speak of several, choosing those that historically, so- cially and commercially best interpret the past and present life of the people. In writing of these, too, we have thought it best to do more than tell the story of briek and mortar, their granite and iron erections; but with these we give some character sketches of some of the men whose genius and intellect conceived and whose energy created them all. We do this be- cause the builder is always greater than his erection, as the Creator is mightier than his creation.
It would be impossible, in the limits of this history, to dwell at length on all the really im- portant eities and towns of the State. Wash- ington, especially on the waters of Puget Sound, is almost a land of cities. Probably two-thirds of its population reside in the towns. East of the Cascade mountains the proportion is not so great, but even there the population is largely urban. So, without designing to overlook any, we select the capital, and other cities located in, and commercially and socially representative of, the various sections of the State.
OLYMPIA, CAPITAL CITY OF WASHINGTON.
No city in the Union is more proudly named or situated than Olympia, with the sea at its feet and the mountains its glistening crown, with immense forests garlanding its skirts. While in one hand it bears aloft some of the rarest fruits of the world and in the other the golden grains of a marvelous production, it stands not only a city beautiful for situation, but a powerful factor in the future progress of the State.
As a business center, the city is compactly and substantially built on a fine water front ex- tending many blocks back. Its hotels, banks, public buildings and schools are such as are found in the greatest eities of the East. Elec- tric railways and the daily press bespeak its irre- pressible progress. Its population, including Tumwater suburb, is more than 7,000, being one of the most prosperous eities in the State.
It has a complete system of water-works, also electric lighting for streets, stores, and dwell- ings. On every hand are evidences of the rapid and substantial modern growth.
Being situated at the southern extremity of the Sound, at a point where railroads must fork to go to the East and West, Olympia has al- ready become a railroad center, which includes the Northern Pacific with all its ramifications leading to Portland, Oregon; to Tacoma, Scattle, and the entire east side of the Sound, also to Chehalis valley and Gray's Harbor, and to Tenino, famous for its quarries on the Olympia and Chehalis valley line. The Puget Sound & Portland railroad, a joint extension of the Union Pacific and Great Northern, is already graded, passing through Olympia. The Port
228
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
Townsend Southern, leading ont of the city, via Hood's Canal to Port Townsend, is nearing com- pletion. Regular lines of fine steamers lead also to numerons points on the Sound.
The geographical position of Olympia, at the head of navigation on the west, together with its central control of its wheat fields on the east through its growing railroad system, renders its promise of greatness subject to no doubt. Con- gress at its last session has made large appro- priation for its harbor improvements, thus recognizing its importance as a commercial point.
Immense amounts of valnable timber of fir and cedar along its new lines of railroad be- speak great industries which alone promise an exceptional future for the eapital city. Other great industries no less important than its tim- ber, are its adjacent stone quarries, coal fields and iron ores. It is the nearest seaport to the great Tenino quarries, whose superior quality of stone and beauty are already established abroad. It is also the nearest point to the well- known Skookmmchuck coal fields, also at Bn- coda and at Gate City, not twenty miles dis- tant. Its nearness to the Black Hills, but five miles distant, which are known to contain iron ore in abundance, forecasts its future also as im- portant in the great industry of iron.
The advantages of the capital city as a seat of manufacturing are very great and are already attracting practical investigation and invest- ments. To speak of the country about Olym- pia and not mention its fruits and grains, and its great agricultural advantages, is to omit its prime virtue. Here fruits are rich and luscious, grains golden and prolific, vegetables abundant and perfect. Flowers bloom till midwinter and even then nature smiles beneath her tears with green fields and verdant lawns.
The capital of sneh a State as Washington would, alone suffice to build up a great city. Congress has endowed the State with 132,000 aeres of land for the erection of the capitol buildings, and this princely grant is now worth $2,500,000 and rapidly inereasing in value.
The last session of the Legislature passed an act appropriating 81,000,000 with which to begin the construction of a splendid capitol building, which is now well under way.
The permanent residence of the governor and State officers are here, and, as it is the seat of the United States Land and Surveyor Gen- eral's offices, the place of meeting of the Legis- lature, the Supreme Court, and numerous State boards, it attracts a most desirable population. It is a eity of fine homes, splendid schools, in- viting churches; of culture, brains and refine- ment; of beantiful gardeus, and, in their season, of laden fruit trees in its streets.
Illustrative of the personal elements that have wrought out its past history, and assured its future progress, we append the following sketches of some of its pioneers and builders. It is proper that the name heading this list should be the honored one of the first governor of the Territory of Washington.
MAJOR GENERAL ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS, de- ceased, was born in North Andover, Massachu- setts, March 23, 1818, and was deseended from John Stevens, one of the founders of the town in 1641. He entered West Point July 1, 1835, and four years later graduated with distinguished honors at the head of his class. Appointed a second lieutenant of engineers, he served as as- sistant in building Fort Adams, Newport Har- bor, 1839.'41, and was placed in charge of the Works at New Bedford, 1841-'43, Portland, Maine, and Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and Fort Knox, at the narrows of the Penobseot river, a new and important work, chiefly built under his superintendence, 1843-'46; first lien- tenant, July 1, 1840.
He served in the Mexican war on General Scott's staff from the investment of Vera Cruz to the capture of the city of Mexico, 1847. He was in the siege of Vera Cruz and the battles of Contreras, Cerro Gordo, Churubusco, Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, and the assault and cap- ture of the city of Mexico, where he was se- verely wounded. Besides distinguishing him- self by the daring and skillful reconnaissance of
229
HISTORY OF WASHINGTON.
the Peñon, San Antonio, eity of Mexico and others, he was brevetted captain for gallantry at Contreras and Churubusco, and major for his bravery at Chapultepec.
Returning on crutches in 1848, he resumed charge of the works in Maine and New Hamp- shire. In September, 1849, he accepted the position of assistant in charge of the United States Coast office, and there continued on duty until March, 1853, when he was appointed Gov- ernor of the new Territory of Washington, and resigned from the army. As governor he was ex officio Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and at the same time, having volunteered for the service, he was placed in charge of the explora- tion and survey of the northern route for the Pacific railroad.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.