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OFFICE OF COUNTY BOARD OF EDUCATION
S. R. BUTLER, Superintendent
Huntsville, Ala., Sept. 22, 1916.
Mr. Ed. C. Betts,
Huntsville, Ala.
Dear Sir:
Permit me to thank you for the history of Madison County you have recently written. It will supply a long felt need. Our young people know too little of the history of their own county.
This work will, I believe, create a greater pride on the part of all of us for our native section.
I am glad you will have it published in a form that will make it possible for every one to possess a copy.
The work has our hearty endorsement and we shall encourage our teachers to bring it to the attention of their pupils.
Congratulating you upon the splendid contribution you have made to the youth of North Alabama and to Madison County especially, I am,
Very sincerely yours,
S. R. BUTLER, Co. Supt. Ed.
EARLY HISTORY
OF
HUNTSVILLE, ALABAMA
1804 TO 1870
BY
EDWARD CHAMBERS BETTS
1909
REVISED 1916 .
MONTGOMERY, ALA. THE BROWN PRINTING CO.
1916
Copyright, 1916 BY
EDWARD CHAMBERS BETTS
FOREWORD
1144490
In the preparation of this work the author is largely indebted to the Department of Archives and History of Alabama, under the capable management of Dr. Thomas M. Owen, who con- tributed liberally of his time assisting in a search of the files and records of this Department. Especially is the author indebted for the aid received from the letters of Judge Thomas J. Taylor,* dealing with this subject.
In its inception this work was not intended for, nor is it offered as, a literary effort, but merely as a chronicle of his- torical facts and events dealing with Huntsville. In its prepa- ration, the author has taken care to record nothing within its pages for which his authority as to the source of information is not given. It has value only as a documentary record of facts and events gleaned chiefly from contemporaneous sources, and is as accurate as could be made after verification from all material at hand, which was necessarily very meager.
This work is published with the hope that those who chance to read these pages will derive some benefit and as much pleas- ure therefrom as did the author in its preparation.
E. C. B.
*Probate Judge of Madison County from 1886 until his death, during his second term, in 1894.
CONTENTS
Page 3
Foreword
CHAPTER I.
Huntsville and Surrounding Territory 5
First Settlers 6
Life of Early Settlers. 7
CHAPTER II.
Land Sales in 1809 11
Laws Extended Over Madison County 14
Courts 19
Purchasers at Land Sales of 1809.
21
Establishment and Founding of Twickenham 23
Name Changed to Huntsville
25
CHAPTER III.
People and Events Occupying History's Stage Between 1810
and 1816 28
The Period Between 1817 and 1821 32
Territorial Constitutional Convention 35
Educational
38
CHAPTER IV.
Economic, Political and Social Conditions from 1820 to 1861 45
Commercial Development 45
Historic Landmarks 50
Economic Status of Slavery as an Institution. 52
Transportation-Canal Building-Railroads
61
Civic and Public Institutions-Histrionic-Militia. 73
Religious and Educational-Churches-Schools-Newspapers. 77
Makers of National, State and Local History 82
CHAPTER V.
Civil War and Reconstruction. 88
Disunion Sentiment and Secession. 92
Conditions, During the War and Resulting from Federal Raid in 1862 95
Prominent Deserters and Tories 100
Conditions Toward Close of the War 102
Freedman's Bureau-Banks.
104
Reconstruction 111
Ku-Klux Klan and Cause Therefor 114
Chapter I.
HUNTSVILLE AND SURROUNDING TERRITORY
U NTIL March 3, 1817, Alabama was a part of the Mis- sissippi Territory. Between the years 1795 and 1796 certain land companies purchased this territory from the state of Georgia. The Georgia Legislature granted title to these land companies for a comparatively nominal con- sideration-the major portion of which the Legislature itself received and withheld from the state.
Madison county was purchased by the Tennessee Land Com- pany ; nearly all of North Alabama being included in the grant from the Georgia Legislature.
The people of Georgia, upon being apprised of the grants made by the Legislature of 1795-96, rose with righteous indig- nation and had the action of that Legislature investigated, revealing what was known as the "Great Yazoo Fraud." This fraud was denominated the Yazoo fraud, for the reason that the Yazoo Land Company was the principal grantee of that Legislature. The succeeding Legislature revoked these grants and declared them null and void. Notwithstanding this, these land companies continued to sell the lands in the granted terri- tory for one dollar an acre.
The state of Georgia was unable to force these land com- panies to relinquish their hold upon the territory, and in order to accomplish this end was forced to cede this territory to the General Government on April 24t4h, 1802. Wherever title to any of these lands had been acquired by private individuals, restitution was made by the Government.
In order that individuals might retain and perfect the title to their lands it was necessary for them to file their claims with the Government Land Office, at Nashville, Tennessee, before January 1, 1815. All parties not having done this were forced by United States troops to abandon the land.
Although the Mississippi Territory had been ceded to the Government in 1802, "Old Madison county" never came into possession of the Government till 1807, when it was ceded by both Cherokee and Chickasaw Indians. Both these Indian tribes claimed it as their hunting ground, but it was never inhabited by either.
6
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
The territory just referred to as "Old Madison county," is embraced in the present limits of Madison county, but was not quite so extensive.
Madison county is unique among the other original coun- ties of the State, in that it is the only county ever to extend its boundaries, all of the other original counties having had to contract theirs to make room for the creation of new ones, as the growth of the State necessitated.
FIRST SETTLERS
As to who was the first white man to settle in Madison county is yet a mooted question, but circumstances lead to the belief that "Old Man Ditto" was living among the Indians as a trader at "Ditto's Landing," (Cherokee-Old-Fields or Whitesburg) some years before Huntsville was located.
That John Hunt was the first white man to build his hut on the banks of the "Big Spring," is historically settled. Hunt's cabin was situated on. the slope of the bluff overlooking the spring, at the point which is now the southwest corner of the intersection of Bank street and Oak avenue, on the property occupied by the residence of Mr. Frank Murphy. Incidents and circumstances attending Hunt's journey to the Big Spring confirm the belief that there were white settlers in Madison county, north of Huntsville, before the arrival of Hunt.
Judge Taylor, in his letters dealing with early life in Madi- son county, tells us that Joseph and Isaac Criner, accompanied by Stephen McBroom, explored the northern part of the county in 18041 and built a hut on the banks of a stream, which is now known as Mountain Fork of Flint river. Isaac Criner was personally known to Judge Taylor, and in his letters he gives us Mr. Criner's narrative of the events of those early days in his own words. In substance Mr. Criner says: In the early part of 18052 he and Joseph, his brother, came to Mountain Fork and built a cabin3 for Joseph's family, then one for him- self. Shortly after the erection of these cabins, John Hunt
1 and 2 These dates seem to conflict, and Judge Taylor does not explain them for us; however, it is very probable that the Criners with McBrooms explored the country and then returned to their homes for their families and supplies, before erecting cabins. This inference is supported by the fact that only the Criners were present when the houses were erected, and also in the first instance no men- tion is made of the presence of their families.
3 Mr. Criner was under the impression that his brother Joseph's cabin was the first erected in the county.
7
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
and a man named Bean came to their cabins and spent the night, continuing their journey the next morning.
Hunt and Bean came from the north of what is now New Market, along a trail, which is now the Winchester, Tennessee, road. They had heard of the "Big Spring,"4 and of the abund- ance of big game in its vicinity. In a few weeks Bean returned and stated that he was going back to what is now Bean creek, near Salem, Tennessee, but that Hunt was going to locate at the "Big Spring," and would return and bring his family later. Mr. Criner also tells us that in 1805 several families came into the county from north of New Market, along the same course traversed by Hunt ; among whom were the Walkers, Davises, McBrooms and Reeses.
These early settlers got word back to their former friends and neighbors of the unusual fertility of the soil, the beauty of the country, and of the wonderful "Big Spring," and in 1806, large numbers of home-seekers began to come into the county from Middle and East Tennessee, and Georgia. These pioneers were of the types usually found on unsettled frontiers, "the advance guard of civilization," known as "squatters." They were a very thrifty lot, and at the Government land sales in 1809 many were able to buy the tracts upon which they had "squatted" and made their homes. As a whole they were an honest, law-abiding people, modest in their desires and customs, living peaceably without law or government for some years.
Between the years 1805 to 1809 wealthy and cultured slave owners came into the county in large numbers from North Carolina, Georgia and Virginia. Soon this class outnumbered the pioneers ; these later settlers bought large tracts of land at the sales in 1809. In coming into the county, the settlers from North Carolina and Virginia moved along the then western boarder of civilized customs and cultivated lands into West Georgia and Middle Tennessee, till they reached the Tennessee river, which they crossed near the Georgia line.
LIFE OF EARLY SETTLERS
The life of these pioneers was very primitive; they drew solely on the resources of the surrounding wilderness for their necessities and comforts. Their houses seldom had a piece
4 The Huntsville Spring was known of the Indians as the "Big Spring," and was thus denominated by them.
8
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
of iron about them. The floors were of dirt, and in rare instances this was covered with puncheon. Even the hinges of their doors were of wood. The walls of the houses being built of logs.
Instead of fastening the covering upon roofs, with nails, lengthy poles were placed across the boards, and weighted down at the ends. Owing to the scarcity of adequate tools and hardware supplies, the houses were necessarily very small, one-room structures. The small huts served to house families, which, in many instances, were greatly out of proportion to their size, for be it remembered, in those days families were large and in this particular settlement legend records that they were unusually large.
As families increased in size, and necessity demanded, rooms were added to the family hut-but without increasing its exte- rior dimensions-by the simple process of stringing up another buckskin curtain, which served to partition off the new room. The erstwhile "feather-tick," upon the bed was not one of the luxuries of which these early settlers could boast, at all events, the entire family could not; for the younger children were bedded upon pallets, and as the family continued to increase in numbers, the larger boys slept in the barn loft, and legend has it, even under trees and most anywhere. History in its record of customs and usages, which prevailed in those early days, suggests the existence of a milder climate then, than now.
The prevailing table-ware was constructed of hewn wooden utensils, though some of the wealthy settlers possessed pewter ware.
For some time these pioneers lived a life of freedom from tilling of the soil, subsisting the while in sumptuous compla- cency upon the abundant provisions of nature. However, after a time they realized the unusual fertility of the soil, and then clearing of land was commenced, and corn was planted.
There being no grist mills at which their corn could be ground into meal, resort was had to the age-old custom, in primitive quarters, of using a crude mortar and pestle, made by hollowing out a hard stump in which they pounded the corn into meal. Little or no wheat was planted, and they lived for a time without flour ; however, when the population grew, flour was shipped in from the trading station at Ditto's Landing (Whitesburg).
During the first years of the settlement all supplies received from the outside world were transported in by pack mules from the settlements further north ; later, practically all supplies were shipped from these settlements further north, down the Tennes-
9
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
see river, and put off at Ditto's Landing, about ten miles south of the settlement, and from there hauled in by wagons. At this landing on the Tennessee an Indian trading station was operated by John Ditto, who lived there among the Indians of this territory, without white associates for some years before the settlers came into the north part of the county.5
In due time, the cultivation of cotton was begun, and shortly thereafter the cotton spinning wheel came into very general use in the settlement. The yarn made therewith superseded in some measure buckskin, which was still in very general use as a substitute for cloth; the principle article of clothing being dressed buckskin. Prior to the arrival of cotton and the cotton spinning wheel, buckskin was used almost exclusively as bed- spreads, ropes, sewing threads or thongs, as well as for many other and varied purposes. For a time, at any rate, the advent of the cotton spinning wheel, locally, did not supersede the use of buckskin as an article of dress, for cotton cloth remained a scarce and seemingly very precious article, as calico cost 50 cents a yard. As a consequence only a few young ladies of the wealthiest families could afford to disport themselves along the paths of the settlement clad in a calico dress, colored by boiling with different kinds of native barks, and shod with buckskin moccasins. Some few of the wealthier inhabitants could boast flax spinning wheels, with which clothes, table and bed linen were made in limited quantities for home use.
Things which we have learned to consider as every day necessities, such as lamps, were, with these early inhabitants only "medical" necessities, being used exclusively in cases of sickness. Gun-powder, the chief instrumentality for protec- tion and subsistence, was made by the settlers themselves.
In summing up and taking a survey of the apparent hard- ships undergone by the early settlers, who traveled here from homes and communities furnishing more of the ease and luxury of the times, and far greater security of life; we naturally inquire, why did they abandon such homes and communities, and why, again, on such abandonment, did they choose this particular spot, the then furthermost settlement from civiliza- tion, and many miles away from their former friends and neighbors? In answer to these queries, we can only surmise. But, it is not wondrous strange that these people should have
5 It is interesting to know that there still lives, near this landing, a negro family bearing the name of Ditto, one of whom is named John.
10
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
been possessed of the spirit of the times; that pioneer spirit which was so predominant. Having once gotten upon their way, it is still less to be wondered at, that they should have halted in their journey and builded their huts around the won- derful "Big Spring," about which Hunt had spread the news when he returned to his home for his family. Truly, this new Eden must have offered many and unprecedented inducements. Though surrounded by Indians, they were never molested. The climate was healthful and mild; the surrounding country was well supplied with waterways; the streams abounded with red-horse, salmon and trout; the forest with bronze turkeys, flocks of pigeon, and red and gray squirrels; and quail could be bagged by herding and driving them into nets; deer and bear frequented the river bottoms, and wild duck were plenti- ful. Truly to them, it must have seemed that nature had pro- vided this spot with an unlimited wealth of resources.
In addition to these, many more inducements offered them- selves to the large slave owners; chiefest of which was the fertility of the soil, upon which could be produced one thousand pounds of cotton to the acre,6 which was a prime attraction during these years, as the price of cotton was from 20 cents to 25 cents per pound. Perhaps an equally potent consideration was, here their slaves were never molested. If they escaped their owners, they fell into the hands of the Indian tribes; if the tribe was hostile, they were re-enslaved and treated very cruelly ; if friendly to the settlers, the fugitive slave was re- turned to the master. This was no minor consideration to the slave owner, especially those from Virginia, since, for some years their slaves had been decoyed away, and were escaping with annoying and increasing frequency. Nor had they set- tled in a country which offered no means of transportation ; for as early, probably, as 1809, cotton, which was then being cultivated extensively, was floated on flat boats or barges down Paint Rock and Flint river to the Tennessee. On the return trip, these boats brought supplies.
References :- Judge Taylor's History of Madison County; Brewer's Alabama; Huntsville Directory, 1859 ; Northern Ala- bama; kindness of many older citizens; newspaper files and clippings.
6 The author entertains the opinion that this was seed cotton, though he has been unable to authenticate his belief. However, in case seed cotton is correct, such a yield is not disappointing, but on the contrary, excellent, considering the circumstances and primitive nature of farming then prevalent.
Chapter II.
LAND SALES IN 1809
N EARLY, if not all the states, composing the United States, at that time, had been settled and established under the auspices of foreign powers, title to lands in them having been acquired by "Grant from the Crown." Under this system, the more influential inhabitants procured patents to vast areas of land.
Unlike her sister states, which had preceded her in the Union, Alabama was settled and established under the auspices of the United States Government, for, as we have seen, the Mis- sissippi Territory was ceded to the Government by Georgia on April 24, 1802. Almost immediately the beneficial effects of being under the direct jurisdiction of the General Government were made manifest. Shortly after this land was ceded to the Government by Georgia, it became the Mississippi Territory, and was accordingly provided with a territorial government.
It is very probable-as to this, however, the author cannot be certain-that Alabama was the first one of the states admit- ted to the Union, which was officially surveyed and platted by the Government before the lands therein were open for set- tlement under governmental administration. Some time during the year 1807 the survey of that portion of the Mississippi Ter- ritory, which is now the State of Alabama, was commenced, by first locating and establishing the Meridian line for the State, known as the "Huntsville Meridian," along which passes, for a portion of the way, the present Meridian Pike, leading north from Huntsville. This work was done by and under the supervision of Thomas Freeman, a surveyer, of Nashville, Ten- nessee. The survey was completed, and so reported to the Government, in May, 1809, and in August, 1809, lands were of- fered for sale.
By a proclamation of Hon. Robert Williams, Governor of the Mississippi Territory, Old Madison county was created and established the 13th day of December, 1808, with a population of five thousand. This proclamation is in words and figures, as follows :
12
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
"Whereas, by the ordinance of the government of this terri- tory, it is provided that, for the prevention, of crimes and injuries, and for the execution of process civil and criminal, the governor shall proceed from time to time, as circumstances may require, to lay out the parts of the district in which the Indian titles shall have been extinguished into counties and townships, subject, however, to such alterations as may there- after be made by the Legislature.
And, whereas, the Indian titles have been extinguished to a tract of country lying and being within this territory, princi- pally on the north side of the Tennessee river, commonly called the "Great Bend" of the Tennessee, and bounded as follows : beginning on the north bank of the Tennessee river on the Cherokee boundary, thence northward along said boundary to the southern boundary of the state of Tennessee; thence west with said last mentioned boundary till it intersects the Chica- saw boundary line; thence south along said Chickasaw line, crossing the Tennessee river twice, to the beginning ; agreeable to a survey made under the authority of the United States, within which boundaries there are several thousand inhabitants, having as yet no laws or officers among them: And it being also provided by said ordinance, that the laws shall have force in all parts of the district; to the end, therefore, that the in- habitants residing in said tract of country may have the benefit of law :
I do in compliance with said ordinance, and for the purposes aforesaid, lay out said tract of country, to be called and known by the name of "Madison," subject, however, to such altera- tions as may hereafter be made by the Legislature.
Given under my hand and the seal of the territory, at the town of Washington, this thirteenth day of December, in the year of our Lord, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Eight, and in the Thirty-third year of the Independence of the United States.
(L. S.) (Signed) ROBERT WILLIAMS.
By the Governor,
THOMAS H. WILLIAMS, Secretary."1.
Later, in 1818, by an act of the Legislature of the Alabama Territory, of February 6th, it was provided "that Madison county shall hereafter be bounded on the west by the western
1 Toulmin's Digest of Alabama Laws, page 80. Edition 1823.
13
Early History of Huntsville, Ala.
boundary line of range number two, west of the basis meridian of said county, extending from the southern boundary of the state of Tennessee to the river of the same name, and said county shall be bounded on the south by said river."2 Later, by an act of the Legislature of the State of Alabama, on December 13, 1819, the eastern limits of the county were ex- tended to include "all that tract of country lying between the present Madison county line and Flint river."3
The foregoing constitute all of the changes made in the ter- ritorial limits of the county during the early days. It is very interesting to know, that what is now the eastern part of Madison,-all that tract of country lying east of Flint river, and a part of what is now western Jackson county,-consti- tuted the county of "Decatur," created by an act of the Legis- lature of the State of Alabama, on December 17th, 1821.4
To the casual reader of these pages, no doubt, it will be al- most incredible that five thousand settlers had journeyed to this frontier community within four years from the arrival of the first pioneer. Yet, after a laborious and painstaking exami- nation and search for authentic information and records, as well as a studied consideration of the spirit and events of those early years, the author has little doubt of the reasonable accu- racy of the reputed population.
The lands in Madison county were the first surveyed and sold in North Alabama. Prior to the sales in 1809 lands in and around St. Stephens had been offered for sale by the Govern- ment. The Government Registry and Land Office, through which all purchases of land in the new territory had to be negotiatetd, was situated at Nashville, Tennessee, with Gen. John Braham as Register. All traveling in those days was by horse-back, and in due season there was a well defined high- way from the Tennessee river south of the "Hunt Spring" set- tlement to Nashville on the north, along the same course now traversed by tourists in passing between the two cities. At these sales there were many purchasers who bid in with alacrity these rich lands at an average of $2.00 per acre ; very few bids were for more than that. If the amount bid was paid cash, the Government discounted the purchase price eight per cent. Easy terms were also offered; interest at the rate of six per
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