Biographical and historical memoirs of eastern Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the state, a number of biographies of distinguished citizens of the same, a brief descriptive history of each of the counties named herein, and numerous biographical sketches of the prominent citizens of such counties., Part 73

Author: Goodspeed Publishing Company
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: Chicago, Ill. ; St. Louis [etc.] : The Goodspeed Publishing Co.
Number of Pages: 836


USA > Arkansas > Biographical and historical memoirs of eastern Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the state, a number of biographies of distinguished citizens of the same, a brief descriptive history of each of the counties named herein, and numerous biographical sketches of the prominent citizens of such counties. > Part 73


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ST. FRANCIS COUNTY.


CHAPTER


ST. FRANCIS COUNTY-ITS ADVANTAGEOUS LOCATION-AREA AND BOUNDARY-STREAMS-POPULATION- NAVIGATION-PERIOD OF ENTRY-FIRST SETTLERS-MOUND BUILDERS-FIRST BUILDING AND COUNTY SEAT-WILLIAM STRONG-SOIL-CLIMATE AND PRODUCTION-STOCK RAISING -GROWTH AND MATERIAL PROGRESS-VALUATION-ORGANIZATION- COURT AFFAIRS-PROMINENT CASES-WAR RECORD-SKETCH OF FORREST CITY-POLITICAL HISTORY AND DI- RECTORY OF OFFICERS - SUMMARY- BIOGRAPHICAL. -


Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bar to their windows; But their dwellings were open as day, and the hearts of the owners; There the richest were poor, and the poorest lived in abundance .- Anon.


T. FRANCIS COUNTY, near the center of the eastern tier of counties in Arkansas, is bounded on the north by Crit- tenden and Cross, on the east by Crittenden, on the south by Lee, and on the west by the counties of Monroe and Wood- ruff. It contains an area of 615 square miles, or 393,600 acres, and is divided into ten municipal town- ships, viz. : Griggs, Johnson, Telico, L'Anguille, Blackfish, Franks, Prai- rie, Goodwin, Madison and Wheat- ley.


The St. Francis and L'Anguille® Rivers cross the county from north to south, dividing it into three nearly equal divis- ions, which topographically have each their dis- tinctive features; that lying east of the St. Francis River being generally level, sloping gradually to- ward the Mississippi River. The central division,


between the St. Francis and L'Anguille, is divided by Crowley's Ridge, which is nearly equi-distant between the two rivers, having an average altitude of 300 feet above sea level. The country west of the L'Anguille is slightly undulating.


The seat of justice and principal town in St. Francis County is Forrest City, though numerous other smaller places exist in various convenient lo- calities, the most important of which are Madison, Palestine, Goodwin and Wheatley, on the Little Rock & Memphis Railroad; Colt, Caldwell, Bonair and Bucklin on the Iron Mountain Railway.


The county's population by the census of 1880 was 8,389; white, 4,923, colored, 3,467. This has very materially increased, so that now it is safe to estimate the present population at from 12,000 to 15,000.


The principal rivers of the county are the St. Francis and the L'Anguille, which traverse the ter- ritory from north to south, with their numerous tributaries fed by perennial springs, furnishing a never-failing and abundant water supply. The St.


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HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


Francis is navigable for small boats its entire length in the county, and in early days, before the advent of railroads, no inconsiderable trade was carried on by keel-boats. The first steamboat to ply on the St. Francis within these present limits was an old "stern-wheeler" called the Wheel- ing, owned by Col. J. C. Johnson. This made only a few trips, then being transferred to the Ar- kansas River, and, shortly after having run upon a snag, was sunk in that river near the present site of the city of Little Rock.


The most familiar names connected with the early steamboat navigation of the St. Francis River, and names that will forever be favorably associated with events of the past, are those of "Capt." Thomas R. Bowman and wife, Pauline (familiarly known as "Auntie" Bowman). Capt. Bowman is still living in Memphis, having been the pioneer of steamboating on the St. Francis. His first venture was with a small concern called the Plow Boy, which was soon replaced by a larger boat, and this in turn succeeded by one still larger, called respect- ively St. Francis Nos. 1 and 2. The latter he ran till the breaking out of the war when his boat was taken into the Confederate service and burned at the fall of Little Rock. After the war Capt. Bowman resumed his business in a boat called the Mollie Hambleton. Supposing that the demands of the trade would require a larger and more com- modious craft, he built the St. Francis, which was a model for beauty and would compare favorably with any of the Mississippi boats in equipment and furnishings. The trade, however, failing to meet his expectations, he was forced to sell, not being able to meet all demands against him. The boat was run on the river by Capt. Samson Basket un- til 1875, when it was sunk in the St. Francis near Madison, thus ending any important navigation of the river. At certain seasons of the year the river is still navigable by a few small steamers.


The first permanent settlement of this county began about the year 1819, immigrants entering from the States of Tennessee and Kentucky. At that time, as the country was a comparative wilder- ness and occupied by the Indians, settlers located principally on the eastern slope of Crowley's Ridge.


Additions to these settlements from time to time were made, but no general influx was apparent un- til the opening of the old military road, in 1836. This road was located and cut through the county from the eastern to the western border, by the United States Government, to aid in the removal of the Indians from the States east of the Missis- sippi River to the Indian Territory, which latter had been given them as a permanent home. The highway was 300 feet in width, and was after its completion the generally traveled thoroughfare of immigrants from the east, many of whom, attracted by the fertility of the soil and the genial climate, settled near the road. From these points as a center, the population radiated to different portions of the county. Among the pioneers were the Strongs, Lewises, Moseleys, Pattersons, Hughes, Evans, Castiles, Prewetts, Roys, Joneses, Mays, Seaborns, Williams, McDaniels, Hargraves, Curls, Myrics, Whitsits, Izards, Davises, Hodges, Mal- lorys, Coles, Fitzpatrics. The early history of these settlers is but the repetition of pioneer experiences anywhere. Log rollings, cotton pickings, corn huskings, bear hunts, etc., made up the yearly routine of their work and enjoyments, and occasion- ally a murder relieved the monotony, and added interest to general gossip.


A noble, generous and adventurous band of pioneers, inured to the hardships, trials and pri- vations of a life far removed from the conveniences and amenities of the settled portion of the conti- nent, they were men, self-reliant and determined, well fitted by nature and training for the niche they filled in the development and reclamation of this western wilderness. Fearlessly they blazed the way for advancing civilization, with no concep- tion of the magnificent empire, whose foundations their toils and privations were laying.


All over the county one found the evidences that indicate the presence at a remote period of the Mound builders. These are more numerous in the eastern portion, where may be seen innumerable mounds of different shapes and sizes, evidently built for different purposes. Some are from fifteen to 200 feet in diameter, and from twelve to twenty- five feet in height, and may be classified, according


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ST. FRANCIS COUNTY.


to their uses, into residence, burial, sacrificial, de- fensive and observatory mounds. The implements found therein, though rude, would indicate that the builders were of an agricultural class.


The pottery which has been unearthed consti- tutes the most interesting relics. This is found in abundance and embraces every size and form, mani- festing the exercise of wonderful skill in its manu- facture. The material used is, as a rule, an alu- minous clay mixed with pounded shells. Some of the vessels are plain, the majority, however, be- ing ornamented in devious ways. A few bear rep- resentations of animals, such as coons, bears, birds and fishes.


Here is an extended field for the painstaking archeologist; here, 'neath the shadow of these wonderful mounds, the monuments of a prehistoric race, may he muse and speculate and devolve theory as to their origin and disappearance, giving to the world for its profit and help the benefit of his deliberations.


On the old military road, about twelve miles north of Forrest City, stands a building worthy of note, not alone for its antiquity (having been built, from the most reliable data obtainable, about the year 1827), but for its beauty of design and immense proportions. The building is four stories high and contains twenty rooms, with a veranda extending entirely around it, supported by red ce- dar posts, eight inches in diameter, which, it is said, were brought here from East Tennessee, having been floated down the Tennessee River to the Ohio, down this river to the Mississippi River, and thence to the mouth of the St. Francis, and finally to their destination. This structure is in a remarkable state of preservation, scarcely a square yard of the plastering being missed from the various rooms. It has only been roofed twice, the second roof having been replaced about thirty-nine years ago. Unquestionably this strong house is the most costly and best-preserved residence in the county. Its design and erection at the time and under the cir- cumstances have occasioned considerable comment. The building's site was once the site of an Indian village, a trail leading from this point to Arkansas Post, one of the early trading points hereabouts.


William Strong, the builder, came to this county at a very early day. A shadow of mystery seemed to hang over most of his transactions from the first, frequently causing his neighbors to suspicion that his saintly guise covered many dark and hidden crimes. That he practically controlled the affairs of his section was more than once verified; even the magistrates through fear or mercenary motives were wont to do his bidding. On one occasion a gentleman whose appearance indicated a person of wealth passing through the country stopped with Mr. Strong over night. While eating breakfast the visitor's saddlebags which he had left in his room were opened and part of the contents re- moved and replaced by a coverlid taken from the bed. After settling his bill the stranger mounted his horse and resumed his journey but had not gone far when he was overtaken by Strong and a posse of men who accused him of stealing the coverlid. This, he of course denied and readily consented to allow his saddlebags searched. The evidence of his accused guilt was found; he was arrested, carried back to Strong's and given a mock trial, which resulted in his being robbed of all that he had, not excepting his horse. Large tracts of land came into the possession of Strong by purchase and otherwise, which he mortgaged to the old Real Estate Bank, and in later years considerable confusion and litigation resulted over titles to these lands, embracing some of the finest tracts in the county. Among these was the Span- ish grant upon which the town of Wittsburg in Cross County stands.


Strong was also one of the contractors for cutting and locating the old military road before referred to. The soil in that section of country lying between the St. Francis River and the east boundary of the county is an alluvial sandy loam, a portion of the great Mississippi bottom, being the richest land on the continent. Unfortunately, however, most of this is subject at times to over- flow. The soil of the central portion of the county between the St. Francis and the L'Anguille Rivers is somewhat alluvial, but the greater part includes Crowley's Ridge, which is rolling and is not sur- passed in fertility by any uplands in the State.


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HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


In the county's western territory is a loamy soil with clay subsoil mostly covered with a growth of black jack. A portion of Grand prairie extends into this county, having a width in the southwest corner of six miles and coming to a point near the northwest corner. Lands improved range from $18 to $40 per acre and unimproved from $5 to $12 per acre. The soil is of a warm nature and of easy cultivation. Here fruit grows in its greatest perfection. Apples, peaches, pears and plums have been successfully raised and small fruits and ber- ries yield to perfection. In addition to the excel- lent agricultural feature presented the locality is widely known as a grazing region, being well adapt- ed to this and dairying purposes.


No finer timber is found anywhere and the quan- tity is practically inexhaustible, consisting princi- cipally of poplar, and the different kinds of oak, walnut, hickory, etc. It is rather strange that no poplar timber is found west of the line of the L'Anguille River in this State.


The principal crops are cotton and corn. At present only about one-third of the county is under cultivation, but the proportion of land not sus- ceptible of cultivation is comparatively insignifi- cant. The average yield of cotton on the low- lands is one bale to the acre and sixty-five bushels of corn, the uplands produce three-fourths of a bale per acre and thirty bushels of corn.


The climate is temperate, and the winters short and mild, the mean annual temperature being 60°. The rainfall averages forty-five inches. Snow rarely covers the ground for one continuous week, and the atmosphere is healthful for man and beast, and unusually favorable for the increase of the latter. Cattle uniformly graze until Christmas, and with the exception of those kept for dairying purposes remain out through the entire winter, subsisting on the cane. The putting up of hay on the prairie in the western part of the county is fast develop- ing as an industry, being baled and shipped by car- loads to distant markets.


The yield of timothy and red top per acre is about 3,000 pounds, clover and millet 4,000 pounds and hungarian some 3,000 pounds.


The raising of cattle is becoming one of the


leading sources of income in this portion of the country. Large tracts of prairie are being inclosed by wire fences and turned into cattle ranches. Notably among these is "Prairie Grove" ranch owned by a prominent Northern man, which is well stocked with blooded cattle and horses.


The growth of St. Francis County was materi- ally retarded by the war, but has since been rapid and steady, and the influx of newcomers has been of a desirable and substantial character.


The great obstacle to the increase of population in the lowlands, heretofore, has been the immense amount of timber necessary to be cleared and put aside before a farm could be opened; but this timber once a hindrance to progress is now becoming most valuable, and saw-mills are found in every neighborhood. Large bodies of these forests have been opened by the St. Louis, Iron Mountain & Southern Railway, affording an outlet for the great varieties and vast quantities of timber of this region. The great rush of homeless humanity to the Oakla- homa country would seem to be evidence that most of the desirable Government land, the great wealth of the nation, has been taken up. The truth is, however, and the same has been a matter of com- ment with persons familiar with western emigra- tion, that the great body of emigrants in their eagerness pass over sections where they could pro- cure partially improved and more productive land, situated with every advantage for schools and churches and many other of the conveniences and luxuries of a thickly settled country, at a less sum than would have been demanded for the farming communities toward which they are hastening.


The property value hereabouts has kept pace with the county's increased population. The last assessed value of the real and personal property amounted to $2,519,000 or a little over $300 per capita, and this assessment really represents only about forty per cent of the actual valuation. The county is practically out of debt, owing only a few thousand dollars of railroad bonds which have not yet matured.


There is a mammoth saw, planing and shingle mill at Madison, with a capital of $50,000, in addi- tion to which there have been built six new mills


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ST. FRANCIS COUNTY.


in the county within the past eighteen months. The immense amount of lumber shipped also adds materially to the general wealth.


St. Francis County was organized October 13, 1827, at which time it contained a considerably larger area than its present limits. The site for the seat of justice was first located at William Strong's house on the military road in the north part of the present limits, remaining there until about the year 1841, when it was moved to the town of Madison, in Madison Township. Near 1855 it was again removed, this time to Mt. Ver- non, whence shortly after it was returned to Madi- son, and in 1874 became permanently located at Forrest City. The county has not as yet erected a court house, and the sessions of the courts are held in a frame building purchased for that pur- pose. The jail is a frame structure with steel cells. The old public buildings at Madison, formerly owned by the county and used by the court while located at that place, were sold, and are now in the hands of private parties.


It is very difficult to learn anything of the early courts of St. Francis, the records having been twice destroyed, the first time in 1862 during the war. They were moved to an old house surrounded by woods for safety, but the woods catching fire, and no one being apprised of the whereabouts of these valuable papers, save the parties who had removed them, and who were not on hand at the time, the house and contents were entirely de- stroyed. Again, in 1874, the same agency again wrought devastation.


Among the early judges on this circuit was J. C. P. Tollison, W. K. Sebastian, J. T. Jones, T. B. Hanley, Chas. W. Adams, Geo. W. Beazley, M. W. Alexander and E. C. Bronaugh. Since the war, J. M. Hanks, William Storey, W. C. Hazel- tine, John W. Fox, H. N. Hutton, Jesse Cypert and N. T. Sanders have served in this capacity.


Among the first important cases of a criminal character noted was the killing of William S. Moseley. William Allen was accused of the crime, but, the evidence being only circumstantial, he was acquitted. The name of Hi Dunn also occupies a conspicuous place in the early criminal records.


He lived on an island in Rose Lake, was a very desperate man and a member of the famous out- law band of John A. Murrell.


Another murder that attracted the attention of the people at the time was the killing of James Whitsit by Hugh Castile, both of whom had been living on the same land (and occupying the same house), working together. After a time Whitsit went to Little Rock, and upon his return informed Castile that he had entered the land. This so en- raged the latter that he seized a butcher-knife and dispatched Whitsit. The murderer then left the country and was lost sight of.


Among the more recent crimes the killing of Fox by Aldridge, which happened in Forrest City about 1874, deserves mention. The circumstances of this affair briefly stated are these: Aldridge on one occasion was sent to jail for contempt by Fox, who was presiding judge of the circuit court. Aldridge keenly felt the disgrace, and, after the adjournment of court, and when both had returned to their home in Forrest City, on the first appear- ance of Fox on the streets Aldridge met him, and, without warning, shot him down with a double- barreled shotgun which he had concealed in a convenient drug store. Aldridge was arrested and placed under $10,000 bond, but died before the convening of court.


At the breaking out of the war, though this county was very sparsely settled, the sentiment and sympathies of the people were almost without exception, in behalf of the Southern cause. There were raised here five companies, the first by Poin- dexter Dun, who afterward represented this Con- gressional district in the United States Congress for five consecutive terms. The second company was raised by the well-known commander Frisk. These companies were attached to Cross' regiment. known as the Fifth Confederate regiment. The third company was recruited by Capt: J. McGee, and the fourth by Capt. F. M. Prewett, now a leading merchant of Forrest City, and the oldest business man in the place. The fifth company was raised by Paul M. Cobbs, now State land commis- sioner. The last three mentioned were attached to Col. McNeil's regiment in the Fifth Arkansas


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HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


Cavalry. The gallantry of these companies is at- tested by the few members who survived at the close of the war, the number returning not exceed- ing 100, out of an aggregate of 600 who enlisted. It is worthy of note that Jack Cheney, of Paul M. Cobbs' company of the Fifth Arkansas, was the first man to mount the breastworks in the charge made by the Confederate troops at the battle of Helena.


There were no battles of importance fought within the limits of this county during the war, though a couple of cavalry engagements gave thrill- ing evidence of war, one near the present town of Forrest City, at what is known as Stewart's Springs, and one at the crossing L'Anguille River, within fourteen miles of Forrest City.


Forrest City, the county seat and principal commercial center of St. Francis County, is located on the western slope of Crowley's Ridge, near the county's geographical center, and at the crossing of the Memphis & Little Rock and the Iron Mount- ain Railroads. The town was first laid off March 1, 1869, by J. C. Hill, at that time county sur- veyor; the land on which it stands having belonged at that time to the Izards and Prewetts. The first store was opened under the firm name of Izard Bros. & Prewett. Capt. F. M. Prewett was the first person to settle and build upon the present town site, which then was covered by a heavy growth of poplar timber. The name was bestowed upon the village after the celebrated Confederate general, N. B. Forrest, who was the contractor for grading the Memphis & Little Rock Railroad through this portion of country.


The first mayor of Forrest City was J. W. Grogan, chosen at the first municipal election held shortly after the incorporation of the town, May 11, 1871. At present the population numbers 1,500, of which about 150 are colored.


The Avery Hotel, a large three-story brick building, is the finest structure in the city, and a magnificent monument to the enterprise and thrift of the citizens, having been built by a stock com- pany composed of representative men. It contains forty commodious and well furnished rooms. The cuisine of this house is all that can be desired.


Mr. J. H. Avery, the proprietor, is a genial and courteous gentleman, thoroughly versed in matters pertaining to the conduct of a first-class hotel, and is a general favorite with the traveling public.


There are in addition to the Avery several smaller well-kept hotels and boarding houses.


Society here is cultured and refined, and re- ligion is fostered in a becoming manner, the Meth- odists, Baptists, Presbyterians, all having large and substantial houses of worship. The Catholics also have a good church edifice. The colored peo- ple are principally connected with the Baptist and Methodist denominations, and have four comforta- ble church buildings, two belonging to each or- ganization.


Educational facilities are ample and complete. The school buildings, both for white and colored pupils, are attractive, large, light and airy, and supplied with all the modern conveniences and helps. The white graded school has an efficient principal and three assistants, with an enrollment of nearly 200 pupils. The colored school, con- ducted separately, has a good enrollment, and able and competent instructors.


The professions are well represented, and among the members of both the legal and medical branches are found individuals whose fame and well-deserved reputation extends beyond the limits of the State.


There are two principal newspapers published here, the Forrest City Times and the Forrest City Register, each of which has an encouraging circulation, and enjoys a liberal advertising pat- ronage. Faithful to the interests of their adopted locality, they exercise commendable influence in the moral elevation of their readers.


The Enterprise, published by the colored people and devoted entirely to the upbuilding and wants of this class, is a bright, newsy little sheet, con- servative and neatly printed.


All branches of trade are embodied in the in- dustries of Forrest City, and the business houses are generally large two-story bricks, which will compare favorably with those of any other town of like size. Some ten stores carry stocks of general merchandise, ranging from $10,000 to $30,000, six large grocery stores are found, three drug


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ST. FRANCIS COUNTY.


stores and two jewelry stores, besides numerous small provision, meat and confectionery establish- ments. The Bank of Eastern Arkansas, with a capital of $50,000, is in a flourishing condition, and does a general banking business. The trade of the town amounts annually to about $600,000. There was shipped from this point in 1888, 12,000 bales of cotton and several thousand tons of cotton seed. The transportation facilities are unsur- passed, direct communications being furnished with St. Louis and Texas, by way of the Iron Mountain Railroad, and the same with Memphis and the east, over the Little Rock & Memphis Railroad.




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