USA > California > Sonoma County > The Russian settlement in California known as Fort Ross; founded 1812, abandoned 1841. Why the Russians came and why they left > Part 1
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Gc 979.4 T38r 1966181
M. L.
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01148 4752
m
E
USSIAN SETTLEMENT
in california.
Fort Ross, Sonoma County
BY R. A. THOMPSON SANTA ROSA, CAL. 1896
The
Russian Settlement
. IN . . .
1966181
California
KNOWN AS FORT ROSS
Founded 1812 . . . Abandoned 1841
WHY THE RUSSIANS CAME AND WHY THEY LEFT
By R. A. Thompson
HANTA ROHA. HONOMA DEMOCRAT PUBLISHING COMPANY
The Russians in California
CHAPTER I
The story of the rapid con- quest of Siberia, beginning with the advance of Yermak, the robber chief, across the Ural mountains in the sixteenth century, ending with the discovery of the north west coast of America by Admiral Behring of the Russian -navy, is one of the most remarkable achievements in the conquest and occupation of a country in the annals of history.
Behring discovered the fur seal as well as the proximity of the Asiatic and American continents. In the course of time the rumors of the discoveries reached the Europe- an capitals of London and Madrid. It had a long way to travel over- land to St. Petersburg. Once started, the rumors soon reached the sharp ears of the diplomatists and were promptly reported to their home governments.
The result was the fitting out of Captain Cook's expedition for dis- coveries in that quarter by the Eng- lish, a like expedition from Mexico by order of the King of Spain.
In the English expedition came the first pioneers of American peo- ple to the Pacific coast: John Led- yard, a native of Connecticut, and Captain John Gore, a native of Virginia. The latter, on the death of Captain Cook at the Hawaiian islands, took command as the rank- ing officer, and returned with the ·fleet to England.
We omit the complications which arose between England and Spain over their respective claims on the northwest coast of America, the outgrowth of these early voyages, and return to the Russians, with whom we have directly to deal.
The charter of the Russian- American company gave them some extraordinary privileges, which, in fact, included the government of the country, and it soon absorbed all the various independent associ- ations and became supreme on the northwest American coast.
A bold and enterprising adven- turer named Shelekof, a man of great executive ability and energy, was mainly instrumental in organ-
BON - LL KC-8-21
2
ALEXANDER BARANOFF APPEARS
izing the Russian-American Fur Company. He selected for the head of the monopoly he had cre- ated Alexander Baranoff. Baranoff was a striking type of the strong race from which he sprang. He started life as a clerk in a retail store in Moscow. This offered no field to a spirit so adventurous as his. He went to Siberia in 1780. He was actively engaged in busi- ness when Shelekof put him at the head of his company, and he never displayed better judgment than in this selection of an agent. Baran- off was energetic, daring, politic on occasion, and bold as Cæsar when boldness was needed. He could ex- ecute the plans of others, and with equal ability could conceive and execute plans of his own. His in- fluence over the Russian was un- limited, and he ruled not only the natives but his more unruly coun- trymen of the lowest class who were sent out to him. He was a small man, under average in size, with blue eyes, a bald head and sallow complexion. He was diplo- matic and could shape words for a flexible meaning, and when he wanted to could make them as di- rect as a rifle ball aimed point- blank. For instance, he wrote to his company "Send me a priest well-informed, who is a peaceable man, not suspicious and not biggot- ted." For the rest, he was in the habit of getting on periodical sprees on hot rum, in which he generally involved everybody around his
" castle " before he got through, but they never interfered with his busi- ness.
One of the most notable of the events of his life was the building out of American timber and the launching of the first American- built vessel on the northwest coast. It was named the Phoenix by Bar- anoff and was floated in August, 1794, and afterwards made regular trips between the American and Asiatic coast.
Starting about the same time, the Russians had crossed and occupied Siberia, had crossed Behring sea and occupied the American coast and established communication with Asia by a ship built of Amer- ican timber, before the English moving on the Atlantic coast had yet more than reached the Mississ- ippi river.
Nothing could better illustrate the push and drive of the people of this mighty nation now pressing, if it has not already attained, the first place among all European and Asiatic powers.
With this much by way of intro- duction, we will relate in detail the even more daring occupation by order of Baranoff of the territory of California, and it was undoubt- edly his intention to hold it against its then owners for all time, and his successors would have done so but for the timely promulgation in 1823 of the Monroe Doctrine which gave notice to all the world that no . occupation of American territory
S
VON RESANOF IN CALIFORNIA
by European powers would be tol- crated by the United States.
This principle was finally and forever settled as far as Russia was concerned in its treaty with the United States of April 17, 1824, in which Russia agreed from thence- forth to establish no settlements on the American continent or any ad- jacent islands south of the parallel of 54.40. This treaty, though the Russian settlement in California was not mentioned, involved its abandonment and put an end to any further Russian encroachments in California.
The Russian American Fur Com- pany had now concentrated all the fur interests of the northwest coast under the direction of Baranoff. They occupied all the Aleutian Is- lands and made a permanent settlement on the American coast. It was destined to play a large part in the history of California, as we shall see.
CHAPTER II.
The first event which may be con- sidered as leading to the settlement of the Russians at Fort Ross, was the sailing from Sitka on March 8th, 1806, of Chamberlain Resanof, of the Russian-American Fur Com- pany, on the ship Juno (formerly an American vessel) bound for Cal- ifornia on a trading voyage. Be- fore Resanof's return to Sitka he seems to have determined to make a settlement somewhere on the California coast where his company
could carry on agriculture, and trade with the Californians. It was deemed unnecessary to ask permis- sion of Spain, as Spanish authority north of San Francisco Bay was not recognized by the Russians; and the Russian government had already authorized the company to extend Russian sovereignty as far south as possible without infringing on the rights of other nations.
Resanof was ambitious. He hoped to eventually acquire for his country all the territory from San Francisco Bay to the Columbia ver. The important mission of locating the site for the future set- tlement was intrusted to Kuskof, who by order of Baranoff sailed on the Kodiak, and after touching at Trinidad, arrived at Bodega Bay (always called by the Russians, Port Rumiantsoff) on January 8th, 1809. Here the Kodiak remained at an- chor until August. After carefully exploring the surrounding country, some temporary buildings were erected, some otter and beaver skins were procured and friendly rela- tions were established with the Indians.
On August 29th Kuskof sailed for Sitka, and upon his arrival was able to report favorably concerning the country. He had found a fine climate, good tillable lands, plenty of fish and fur-bearing animals and a tolerable harbor. And as the country was entirely unoccupied by European or American settlers, the conditions were favorable for the
4
KUSKOF ARRIVES AT BODEGA
colony. So the Czar of Russia was petitioned to open negotiations with Spain with a view of a treaty al- lowing trade with New Albion, as Northern California was then called. And he was also asked to give the settlement the protection of the Russian government in case of opposition by the Americans. And this protection, it is said, was promised by the Czar; while, as to trading with the Californians, the company were told to make such terms as they could. Upon re- ceiving this encouragement, Kuskof attempted a new expedition to Bodega, but was unsuccessful, for while stopping at Queen Char- lotte's island, he was attacked by Indians and was compelled to re- turn to Sitka.
In 1811, Kuskof again sailed for Bodega in the schooner Chirikof and upon his arrival he at once're- newed his explorations in the en- deavor if possible to find a better place than Bodega at which to establish his headquarters and build his fort. He found a place, sixteen miles by water north of Bodega, called by the Indians Mad- shui-nui where, though there was no land-locked bay, there was ex- cellent anchorage, and good pro- tection from all summer winds; and he found that all other ad- vantages, such as soil, timber, water and pasturage were much better than at Bodega.
The valley of the Slavianka (Russian River) was examined for
fifty miles but no place was found that compared favorably with Mad- shui-mui, so after a thorough in- vestigation of the whole country, Mad-shui-mui was chosen and work was commenced at once. The site selected was a table-land about 100 feet above the ocean and containing something over 1000 acresland was according to Russian observation in latitude 38° 33' longitude 123" 15' (our coast pilot puts it now in lat. 38° 30' long. 123º 15' ). The friendship of the native chiefs was secured by making them presents and the Russians claim, and it is probably true, that the country was ceded by the Indians to the Com- pany There were at this time in the Russian Colony, 95 Russians, including 25 mechanics. There were also about 80 Aleuts with a fleet of 40 bidarkas (skin boats). The Aleuts were sent out to hunt otter along the coast, but with in- structions to not enter San Fran- cisco Bay, for it was best at this time not to offend the Spaniards. The Russians prepared timber for several months and when all was · ready the Aleuts were recalled to aid the mechanics, and all went to work on the fort and other neces- sary buildings. And in a few months a fortified village had arisen on the shore of New Albion. In the fort were mounted . at first only twelve cannon, but the num- ber of cannon was increased to about forty in after years. All war. completed early in September and
MORAGO 18 SENT TO ROBE
on September 10th, or August 30th of the Russian calendar, the name day of Emperor Alexander, the establishment was formally dedi- cated with great festivity and named Ross from the root of the name Russia, a word extending far back into antiquity.
As to the exact original meaning of the word Ross there seems to be a difference of opinion, but it is certain that the people of the Volga were formerly called Rus, and the Russians generally were called the people of Ross, and the country ie yet called Rossia or Russia.
About this time there was dis- tributed over California a procla- mation issued by the Russian American Fur Company and ad- dressed to the people of California. It was a very conciliatory document and was intended to make friends of the Californians, and thus ad- vance the interests of the Russians. But it seems to have done no good, for the Californians were jealous of their own righte and suspicious of foreigners. Thus it was that the Russians, in less than a year's time, found themselves firmly planted in California without have ing met with any resistance from the Indians or Spaniards. The Spanish were cognizant of what was going on at Ross, but were en- tirely unable to prevent it. But in August, just before the dedication of Ross, Commandanet Arguello, of San Francisco, sent Moraga, "a Spanish officer," with seven men, to
Ross to investigate. Moraga re- turned September 1st and reported that the Russians had built a fort protected by artillery, and appar- ently intended to remain. Moraga was courteously received by the Russians and was allowed to make a complete inspection of the fort.
Morago was again sent to Ross, in January, 1813, when he conferred with Kuskof about trade. He was made acquainted with the plane of the strangers and returned January 27th. Arguello communicated to the Viceroy the result of Morago's two visits to Ross. There is nothing in the Spanish record to show that the Governor or Commandante of California ever gave the Russians permission to settle in the country or even consented to trade with them without the Viceroy's permis- sion. Meantime, the Viceroy had learned that the Russians had set- tled on the coast, and in July he wrote to Arriaga instructing him to watch the strangers. He did not fear hostilities from the Russians, but feared that they were not what they seemed. They might be con- nected with Anglo-American de- signs upon California. Three weeks later, on receipt of Arriaga's letter, the Viceroy again wrote, enclosing the treaty between Russia and Spain, and instructing the Com- mandante to notify Kuskof that his occupation of Californian territory was a clear violation of the treaty, and requesting him to immediately remove his establishment.
6
A DESCRIPTION OF THE SETTLEMENT OF ROSS
CHAPTER III.
Meanwhile the Russians were to be closely watched, and the military authorities of the peninsula and also of the interior were to hold themselves in readiness to furnish aid in case of an emergency. These communications reached California early in 1814, and in April Moraga was a third time sent with an es- cort to Ross with letters in which Arriaga made known to Kuskof the Viceroy's instructions. The Russian commander declined to give a definite answer until he could hear from his superior, Baranoff. So he waited until June before ans- wering, and then he answered, that as he did not fully understand the Spanish letters, he could not act of- ficially upon them. These letters were carried to San Francisco by the agent, Slobodchikof, who took down a small cargo of goods to trade for grain. The Russians hoped that the trouble caused by the Viceroy's orders would blow over, so that trade might proceed. It was the company's policy to keep affairs as quiet as possible at St. Petersburg and Madrid, and to trust for the permanence and prosperity of Ross to the revolutionary condi- tion and consequent weakness of Mexico. On July 30th Moraga made out a full report on the estab- lishment of Ross, particularly on the strength of its defenses.
In 1815 Arguello wrote a peremp- tory letter to Kuskof, stating that by the Viceroy's orders, the settle-
ment at Ross must be immediately abandoned, if friendly relations were to be maintained between Russia and Spain. Kuskof's reply was that he could do nothing with- out instructions from his superior, Baranof. Yet in August the Rus- sian vessel Suvarof, Captain Ma- karof, arrived at San Francisco and trade continued. In 1816 there arrived at San Francisco a Russian vessel, the Rurick, with a scientific expedition, under command of Lieutenant Otto Von Kotzebue, and Sola came up from Monterey and made a complaint concerning the actions of the Russians at Ross. Kotzebue said he had no authority to act, but consented to send for Kuskof. The latter went to San Francisco and a consultation was held at the Presidio, but nothing came of it, as Kuskof would do nothing. And as the Spaniards knew that Ross was impregnable to any force that the Californians could bring against it, the Russians were not interfered with.
The following is a description of the settlement as it appeared at this time: The site of the fort. eight miles northwest of the mouth of Russian river, is about 150 yards from the sea, on a plateau 100 feet above the water, and is so protected by ravines as to be of difficult access to an enemy. All the build -. ings are of redwood. The fort is a quadrangular enclosure of about 300 by 250 feet, its angles facing the Cardinal points. It is formed
7
THE BEAL INDUSTRY
of heavy timbers eight inches thick and fifteen feet long set upright and buried three feet in the ground, leaving them twelve feet high and surmounted by a horizontal beam or plate, on which are spiked thin- ner timbers, three feet long and sharpened at the top. On the north corner of this inclosure is a hepta- gon blockhouse watch tower, solidly built of timbers one foot thick. It is twenty-five feet in diameter and two stories high and has four- teen port-holes for cannon. On the south corner is an octagon block- house watch-tower, twenty-eight feet in diameter and with sixteen port-holes for cannon. There are also some twenty port-holes in the stockade. All of these port-holes when not in use are closed by a block of wood hung on heavy wrought-iron hand-made hinges, this stopper being of the same thick- ness as the wall and fastened on the inside by a heavy iron bar. On the east corner, and just inside of the stockade is the chapel, twen- ty-five by thirty feet and surmount- ed by a belfry with a chime of bells, and a dome. Within the fort are the Commandante's house, the offi- cers' quarters, barracks for the Rus- sian employes and various store- houses and domestic offices. Some of the buildings are of two stories. The commandante's house has glass windows, carpets and a piano. The chapel is decorated with paint- ings and all present a neat appear- ance. A well in the inclosure sup-
plied water for emergencies but a well outside and the creek furnish- ed water for ordinary uses. Out- side the stockade are the buts of the Aleuts and natives and in the immediate neighborhood is a wind- mill for grinding grain, a tannery, workshops, farm buildings, gran- aries, cattle-yards, etc. Beyond is the vegetable garden, and down at the foot of the cliff is a small wharf and boat-landing. Near by is a shed for the protection of the bidar- kas or skin-boats, another shed for storing lumber, another for work connected with the building of ves- sels, a blacksmith shop and a bath house. At Bodega there are some warehouses and at the half-way house near the river there is a sta- tion occupied like that at Bodega by some servants of the company. The population of R088 averaged from 200 to 400. The Russians were officers, chiefs of hunting parties, and mechanics. The Aleuts were hunters and fishermen. The California Indians were laborers and servants. All were, when nec- essary, farmers and soldiers. fi From 1812 to 1840 the Russians kept up an establishment at the Farallones as well as at Ross. The object was to capture fur seals, 1200 to 1500 skins being taken annually .though Winship, Gale, Smith and other Americans had taken the cream of this wealth a few years earlier. After 1818 the seals diminished rapidly until only about 500 could be caught annually. Still the Rus-
8
FORT ROAS FROM A. SKETCH BY CILLEY
sians kept five or six Aleuts at the Islands to kill sea-lions and gulls and gather eggs for use at Ross and Sitka. Annually about from 500,0 to 50,000 gulls and about 200 sea- lions were killed. Of the latter, the meat was salted for use, the skins were used for making boats and the bladders were made into watertight sacks, and the blubber was tried out for oil, both as food and for.lamps, as the hunt for otter became less and less profitable. And as obstacles interfered with success in the way of trade, the agents of the company turned their attention more and more to home industries at Ross. Agriculture was naturally one of the most im- portant of these industries. A con- siderable quantity of dried beef, leather and butter was sent to Sitka after the home wants were supplied and at last the company had 2000 cattle, 1000 horses and 1000 sheep to sell with the estab- lishment. The first livestock was obtained from the Californians, but not without difficulty, as trade was prohibited. There was scarcely any article of wood, iron or leather which the mechanics of Ross could not make of a quality sufficiently good for the California market, and to the very last they received fre- quent applications from the Span- iards. Several boats were built for the Spanish officers or friars. Tim- ber and tiles were sent, north and south and even to the Sandwich Islands. Pine pitch was sent in
large quantities to Sitka in barrels, which, like those used for butter and meat, were made at Ross. Four vessels of respectable di- mensions were built at Ross be- fore 1824 and three of them, the Ruldakof, Volga and the Ki- akta, the reader meets in southern ports.
CHAPTER IV.
In 1821 Kuskof died and was suc- ceeded in command by Karl Schmidt. Schmidt died in 1823, In 1828 Duhant Cilley, a French- man who was making a tour around the world in his yacht, arrived at Ross. He made a sketch of the place as he found it. He reported finding here all the luxuries used in Europe but unknown in other parts of California. He gave a de- tailed description of the orchard and the fence around it, etc.
Vessels continued to arrive at San Francisco, two or three a year, from Ross and Sitka, with goods to trade for grain and other articles which could be procured from the Spaniards. In 1831 the Russians made an attempt to extend their agricultural possessions south-east- erly but they desisted on account of the strong opposition of the Cali- fornians. In 1832 Governor Figu- roa was instructed to report in de- tail on the force maintained by the Russians and the probable inten- tions of the strangers. He was also ordered to establish settlements in the north to check farther encroach- ments. In 1833, Figuroa sent Al-
9
WRANGELL'S ARRIVAL AT BOSS
feres Vallejo to Ross to purchase arms, munitions and clothing for the Californian soldiers and at the same time to secretly acquaint himself with the exact condition of affairs. Vallejo carried letters to manager Kostromitinoff and to Wrangell whom it was thought might have arrived. These letters were filled with expressions of friendship and good-will and of a desire for closer friendship and commerce with those highly es-
trampled upon the laws of nations and aimed at territorial encroach- ment. Wrangell was expected at Ross to found a new settlement at Santa Rosa, and with the same object in view the desertion of the neophytes of San Rafael was being encouraged.
Wrangell finally arrived at Ross and employed Hartnell as an agent to obtain cargoes of produce and if possible. to secare certain conces- sions in regard to the payment of
Fort Ross In 1828, from a sketch by Duhant Cllley.
teemed neighbors, the Russians. The manager of Ross was also urged to use his influence with the Czar to promote the recognition of Mexican independence. Vallejo succeeded in purchasing the requir- ed articles at Ross and on March 5th made his report.
Two days later Figuroa wrote to the national government at Mexico denouncing those highly esteemed neighbors as intruders who had
duties. Wrangell also wrote to Figuroa a letter in which he warm- ly defended his country against the charges of the English navigat- or, Beechey, charges which he de- clared to be without foundation to the effect that Russians had griev- ously wronged the Californians by killing otter 'illegally, by engaging in contraband trade, and even tak- ing possession of the Santa Barba- ra islands. Other foreigners had
10
WRANGELL'S FRUITLESS MISSION TO MEXICO
certainly done these things, but the Russians never.
In 1836 manager Kostromitinoff was succeeded by Alexander Rot- chef. The ex-manager seems to have succeeded Hartnell as agent of the company at San Francisco. He obtained from the Governor of Cal- ifornia a permission to erect a ware- house for his company on any site which he might select. With Cap- tain Richardson's consent he decid- ed to build at Sausalito. But before any use was made of this concession the deputation took up the matter and decided that the governor had no power to grant such a privilege, and that it was not expedient to allow a foreign company to secure such a foothold in a Mexican port. Accordingly, in September, Gutier- res issued an order that no building should be erected. Subsequently, in 1839, Rotchef petitioned for the privilege of building a warehouse at Yerba Buena, but the conces- sion was not granted.
During this period Sonoma was founded as a pueblo; and several citizens, chiefly foreigners, were per- mitted to occupy ranchos on the northern frontier, all with a view to check the apprehended advance of the Russians.
Again, in 1839, Vallejo warned the Mexican government of danger from the Russians which might be averted only by an increase of the force at Sonoma.
In 1837 Ross was visited by Slo- cum and in 1839 by Laplace, each
of whom published a description of the place. Meanwhile Governor Wrangell was very anixous to ac- quire more territory to the south and east of Ross. He wished to extend his possessions at least to San Francisco Bay on the south and to Sacramento on the east, and if this was to be done it must be done at once, as the most favorable time had already passed. If this territory should be occupied against the wishes of the Californians it would not only anger them but would be sure to meet with strong opposition from foreign powers. So Wrangell's best plan was to con - ciliate the Californians. He wished to present farther and in a stronger light, as the Russians had been do- ing for years, the danger of en- croachment by other foreigners, especially the Americans. Also the marked contrast between the past conduct of his people and those of other nations, and the manifest ad- vantage of preferring such friendly and orderly neighbors, rather than the horde of turbulent adventurers who were sure to get possession of the northern frontier.
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