USA > California > California; an intimate history > Part 5
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in the history of California his name was to shine not as a conqueror, but as a lover.
His health had been broken in Japan, where he had been a virtual prisoner on his ship for six months; and there had been no chance to recuperate during that ter- rible winter in New Archangel, where, like his employees, he had often gone hungry. Perhaps if he had set out upon his long overland journey immediately upon his arrival at New Archangel, while the weather was com- paratively mild, he might have survived. But there he lingered to strike a blow at Japan, and it was October before he began that journey of four months and many thousands of all but impassable miles; with never a comfort and with the most hideous privations; drenched often to the skin; the infrequent boat alternating thou- sands of miles on horseback.
After lying several times in wayside inns with fever, he succumbed at Krasnoiarsk, in March, 1807, and all the fine fabric of his dreams, and the earthly happiness of Concha Argüello, lie under that altar-shaped stone in the cemetery of the little Siberian town.
Concha waited until definite news of his death came by the slow way of schooners from the north, and then left the world for ever and devoted her life to the care of the sick and the teaching of the poor; although at one time she had a school in Monterey for the daughters of the aristocracy. There was no convent to enter for many years, but she wore the gray habit of a "Beata." When Bishop Alemany, of the Dominican order, came to Cali- fornia he saw at once to the building of a convent in Monterey, and Concha was not only its first nun, but Mother Superior. Another convent was built some years
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later in Benicia, and she died there at the age of sixty. Practically all of the women of California's gente de razon, who have died of old age during the past twenty years, were educated by her, and, after the convent moved to Benicia, the daughters of several Americans.
Her life until she became a nun had some variety. She accompanied her father to Baja California, in 1814, when he was appointed Gobernador propietario of that territory, now dissevered from Alta California, and she was in Mexico when her mother died. After that she returned to the north and was a guest at "Casa Grande," the home of the De la Guerras in Santa Barbara, not ming- ling with the family, but doing her part unostentatiously among the poor until able to take orders.
Arrillaga was an active man of no particular ability, and far more friendly toward the missionaries than tow- ard the Indians, who in spite of the worm-like state to which they had been reduced sometimes turned and bit like scorpions. Occasionally they murdered a priest more than commonly hated, and more than once they plotted uprisings. But there was no uprising during Arrillaga's times; and if severe. he authorized no execu- tions of Indian delinquents.
He had none of Borica's antipathy to aguardiente and gambling, although a temperate man himself, and the pueblos of San José and Los Angeles, even while increasing in size, became a scandal for dissipation and idleness once more, while the pretentious Branciforte withered away. But several notable events occurred during Arrillaga's administration besides the romance of Rezánov and Concha Argüello. That great adventurer's colossal schemes died with him; but Baránhov, manager of his
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company and governor of Russian America, a man of great ability, was fired by Rezánov's report of the fer- tility of California and the immense number of otters and seals the Russians had seen in the bay and along the coast. When news of Rezánov's death came he sent a copy of his report to St. Petersburg, and Russia at once entered into negotiations with Spain for permission to establish a colony on the northern coast of California "for the sole purpose of hunting the fur-bearing animals and curing their skins." These negotiations were brought to a satisfactory conclusion in 1811, and early in the fol- lowing year Baránhov sent M. de Koskov with a hun- dred Russians and a hundred Kodiak Indians to Bodega, where they established themselves and began their hunt- ing and curing. They brought with them sealskin canoes called cayukas, or baidarkas, with which they ex- plored the coasts and islands of both arms of the Bay of San Francisco, and all its coves and creeks and sloughs and marshes. The Californians never did get used to them, and, although there were no conflicts, there were many uneasy reports from the successive governors to the Viceroy of New Spain.
There were weeks when they killed seven or eight hundred otters in the Bay of San Francisco alone. As the skins were worth from eighty to a hundred dollars apiece the profits were enormous. They also framed and succeeded in forcing trade relations with the Californians. Before long they built Fort Ross on the cliffs of Sonoma, a square inclosure with round bastions, ramparts, a Greek chapel, magnificently furnished, and a substantial log houses for the governor and his staff. It is a beauti- ful and lonely spot, and much romance is connected with
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it. The hills rise abruptly behind to a dense forest of redwoods, and the gray Pacific rolls its big heavy waves to the foot of the cliffs, a viscid-looking mass which seems to drop with its own weight. In a little cemetery high on one of the hills and just below the forest are buried those that died during the Russian occupation; they are in copper coffins, it is said, for the Russians built ships here, among other things. One of the dead was a beautiful guest of the last governor, M. de Rotschev, and his wife Princess Hélène. One day she discovered that her lover, whom she believed to be in Siberia, was in the "town," the collection of huts beyond the fort and occupied by the laborers of the company. That night she met him in a mill, also without the inclosure, and they agreed to flee, and throw themselves on the mercy of the comandante of the presidio of San Francisco. The miller's son, whom she had never seen but who had stared often at her, followed her into the mill, overheard the conversation, and set the machinery revolving. It caught the girl's hair, and she was whirled upward and crushed to death. Her lover flung himself over the cliffs. Other convicts ran away now and again, carefully avoiding the Mission San Fran- cisco Solano (Sonoma), where Vallejo reigned like a king and was friendly with the Russians (this, of course, is anticipating). When they were caught and brought back they were beheaded at the foot of the cliffs or put on a vessel, which stood out some distance, and then made to walk the plank. There is a tradition at Fort Ross that on windy nights you can hear the shrieks of the Russian girl in the mill, and moans of convicts in the process of de- capitation; but, although I once spent three months in that
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romantic spot, I am free to say that I heard nothing. The Russians remained until 1842, in spite of many alarms and protests, and then they went of their own accord. The fur-bearing animals were exhausted.
Meanwhile the missionaries indulged in much contra- band trade of otter and seal skins with Boston skippers, and often under the very nose of Arrillaga, who was violently opposed not only to trade of any sort with foreigners, but to the mere visits of navigators or travelers. He had all the narrow suspicion of his time and race, and none of the brains and genuine ability that distinguished such men as Neve and Borica, to say nothing of the Argüellos. He was the more nervous as alarming reports came from Mexico, which was preparing to throw off the yoke of Spain.
It was during Arrillaga's administration that the first severe earthquake of the historic period occurred in California. The walls of the presidio of San Francisco, which were of adobe many feet thick and reinforced with the solid trunks of trees, were thrown down, and many of the buildings. The mission over in the valley suffered less, but great damage was done in the south.
Arrillaga died in 1814, and José Argüello was Gobernador interino until Don Vicente de Sola, the last of the Spanish governors, arrived in the following year. Mexico was then in arms against Spain; and, as the revolution was un- popular in California, Sola, as the representative of the crown, was received in Monterey with unusual ceremony and rejoicing. Priests, acolytes, distinguished subjects, and all officers that could obtain leave of absence came from the other presidios to take part in the ceremonies. The pillars of the "corridor" surrounding
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the plaza of the presidio were decorated with festoons of evergreens from the woods on the hill and hung with many lamps-little pots containing suet and a wick. At dark there was a social function in the presidio; and the guests, men and women, old and young, romped in the courtyard or along the corridor, strummed the guitar, danced and sang; it is not to be imagined that there was much con- versation in those days. The capital held itself appre- ciably above the other settlements until American occupa- tion, and it had already become the fashion among the women to wear only white at night, while the men wore dove color, silver buckles, white silk stockings, and much fine linen and lace. Let the cruder communities flaunt the cruder colors, but Monterey prided itself upon its elegant simplicity.
The next morning high mass was celebrated in the church of the presidio. The padres wore their sacerdotal vestments, and there was a choir of forty Indians, all dressed in gay colors and making music on viols, violins, flutes, and drums. They accompanied the chants of the priests in perfect tempo. The troops, both cavalry and artillery, were drawn up in front of the church, which was crowded with the gente de razon of the presidios and ranchos; those that could not find entrance knelt in the plaza and on the corridors. When the governor and his staff left the gubernatorial mansion and, crossing the plaza, marched into the church, the Te Deum Ladaumus was assisted by salvos of musketry and cannon.
The cavalry were drawn up immediately before the entrance. They wore their sleeveless bullet-proof cueras, or jackets of buckskin, trousers of dark cloth, low- crowned hats fastened with yellow straps under the chin,
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rough shields on their left arms made from bull-hides, and lances in their right hands. They, too, knelt during the gran funcion, but sprang to their mettlesome steeds the moment it was over and stood at attention while the governor, followed by a gorgeous procession of padres, marched to the flagstaff in the center of the plaza and saluted the royal colors of Spain. The loyal demonstra- tion from men and women and muskets and cannon that followed this simple act on the part of the governor could be heard at the ruins of Branciforte on the opposite side of the bay.
A magnificent banquet had been prepared by the ladies of the presidio of which all guests were invited to par- takė. A troop of young girls, three of whose names have come down to us-Magdalena Vallejo, Magdalena Estu- dillo, and Josefina Estrada, big names in the future his- tory of Old California-led the governor to it. It was a day festa, and the young and slim wore skirts of fine muslin covered with gilt spangles, and colored jackets, and slip- pers with high wooden heels that clacked as they danced. Their hair was gathered in a net at the base of the head or held high with a tall comb, and all wore a string of Baja California pearls.
The ceremonies, religious, military, and social, lasted for days, both at mission and presidio, and then the governor settled down to work. He was the tenth and last Spanish governor of the Californias, and his rule was short. He came in 1815. In 1821 the revolution was successful, and Iturbide Augustin I. ascended the throne to reign briefly as emperor of the new and sovereign empire of Mexico.
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LUIS ARGÜELLO is known informally as the first Mexican governor of California, although he never was made Gobernador propietario; possibly because he had too much individuality and independence to suit either the Church or the powers in Mexico.
The reign of Iturbide was brief. He was compelled to abdicate in 1823, and, shortly afterward, the republic was proclaimed. Meanwhile, Sola had been elected a deputy to the Imperial Congress, and Luis Arguello became Gober- nador interino. The Californians liked neither the em- pire nor the republic, but they were far from the seat of trouble; they were an indolent race, and their resent- ment soon expired in philosophy.
Luis Argüello was far more active and enterprising than most of his countrymen; he belongs to that small band of exceptions in the history of Old California that deserved to have been planted on one of the higher ter- races of civilization. He thought for himself; was never dissipated until misfortune and bitterness overwhelmed him, and was devoted to the military service.
The presidio of San Francisco, of which he was co- mandante during the administration of Sola, was in one of its most acute stages of disrepair. Monterey was more than forty leagues away, and the governor much concerned
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over prowling ships and pirates in the south. Luis made up his mind to put his presidio in order without waiting for the slow permission that might or might not come from the capital. There happened to be an English carpenter in the country, and he ordered him to construct a launch. While it was building he sent soldiers by land to Corte Madeira, a point only twelve miles up the bay, but near- ly two hundred by land, with orders to cut down a num- ber of redwood-trees. When the launch was built he taught his peaceful soldiers how to sail it, and finally he set out with them across that bay so beautiful to the eye, but full of strong and treacherous currents, and sub- ject to sudden squalls. The elements played him every trick, the boat was nearly swamped, the soldiers refused to do aught but pray. But Argüello kept his head, sailed the boat to safety, and towed back his timber. This feat he performed several times, until there were enough logs to repair the presidio. But his energies were abruptly checked by an infuriated governor. To this old dis- ciplinarian, the most obedient of servants himself, it was unthinkable that any soldier should presume to act with- out the consent of his superior; while to build a launch in these times of trouble and revolt stank of high treason. He sent a guard to San Francisco to seize the launch and bring it to Monterey, and ordered the young comandante to the capital forthwith.
Luis was too good a disciplinarian himself not to obey orders without question, and he set out for Monterey on horseback, covering, with relays, fifteen miles an hour. A dashing soldier, a reckless rider, a gay and handsome caballero, haughty, amiable, independent, but always eager to serve his country, and withal an honest gentle-
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man, Luis Argüello is by far the most interesting man in Old California history until Alvarado comes upon the scene many years later.
Barely stopping to rest, and injuring his leg from the stumbling of his horse, he arrived in Monterey, dusty, weary, and in much pain, but indomitable as ever. It was early morning; but, knowing the old man's impatient temper, he hurried to the gubernatorial mansion, dis- carded his stick at the door, and, supporting himself on his naked sword, entered the presence. The governor, who was drinking his morning chocolate, scowled at the uncourtly figure, and without asking him to sit down growled out a demand for an explanation of his abomi- nable breach of discipline.
"It is plain to all," said Luis, "that I and my officers and our families are living in decaying hovels. Why should I waste time supplicating the royal treasury? I was quite capable of attending to the matter myself- as I have proved-without adding to your excellency's burdens."
The governor, who was always irascible in the morning, gave a roar of rage at this offhand reply, and seized the staff with which he so often administered chastisement, not only to peons and soldiers, but to the officers and quaking members of the gubernatorial family. But Luis, instead of bowing to the storm, lifted his haughty crest and put himself in an attitude of defense. It was then that the governor caught sight of the naked sword.
"What-what does that mean?" His excellency could hardly articulate. He paused in his onslaught, pointing to the sword.
"It means," replied Luis, coolly, "first, that I have in-
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jured my leg, and when I am tired of standing in one posi- tion I find it necessary to change to another; and sec- ond, that, being a soldier and a man of honor, I do not purpose that you or any other man shall beat me."
For the moment Sola was too stunned to reply. No one had ever thought of resisting him before, and seldom a day passed that he did not use his cane. He stared at Argüello but a moment, however, before he flung his stick across the room and advanced with outstretched hands.
"This," said he, "is the bearing of a soldier and a man of honor. I solicit your friendship. Blows are only for the pusillanimous scamps that deserve them."
Luis was quick to respond. The two shook hands, and, for aught we know, kissed each other on either cheek, then sat down to chocolate. Sola, paying a visit to San Francisco a few days later, admitted that Luis had been justified in making his repairs in his own way, but he liked the launch so well that he never returned it.
It was shortly after Rezánov's visit that Luis had been able to marry Rafaella Sal, a red-haired, gray-eyed girl, to whom he had been engaged for six interminable years. So important a subject as the son of José Argüello could not marry without royal consert, and that was long in coming. It is hard to realize in these days of steam and steel and speed that a hundred years ago California was almost as remote from the centers of civilization as had she been on the satellite, and communication as slow. But he married his Rafaella at last; only to lose her a year or two later. Time closed the wound, and in 1822 he wished to marry Doña Maria Soledad Ortega, of the Rancho del Refugia on the Santa Barbara channel.
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That was during Iturbide's brief reign, and the City of Mexico was closer than Madrid. Sola, now his ardent friend, bestirred himself, and the permission arrived within a few months. There was a great wedding at the Rancho del Refugio. It faced a roadstead, and Luis came down by sea, as well as the guests from San Fran- cisco and Monterey. Those from the ranchos came on horseback, the caballero often holding his doña before him; the older people in carretas, the wagon of the country-low, springless, made from solid sections of large trees, and drawn by bullocks.
For months before a hundred Indian girls had drawn the fine threads of deshilados for undergarments and bed- spreads, fashioned silks and satins into gowns, while twelve of the girl friends of Doña Maria embroidered the flowers of the country on white, particularly the red-gold poppy, which had been named not long since for the good Dr. Eschscholz. This scientist had visited California in 1816 on the Rurik, when Otto von Kotzbue brought the first confirmation of Rezánov's death. How the girls, their needles flying, or sitting up half the night, serenaded and sleepless, talked with bated breath of that romantic tragedy and wondered what their own fates would be! There were Carillos and Oreñas, more Ortegas, De la Guerras, Estudillos, Vallejos, Alvarados, Castros, Picos, Estradas in that gay party, and those that could not be entertained even six in a bed in the great adobe ranch- house met them at the Santa Barbara Mission, where the wedding was held; then rode over for the days and nights of festivity, when beds, so far as we can make out, were mere encumbrances.
Luis had sent to the City of Mexico for the donas of the
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bridegroom: mantillas black and white, silk stockings, fans, lace flounces, Roman sashes, pearls from Baja California, high combs bound with gold, a rosary of amethyst beads, a necklace of topaz, and, the fine flower of the wedding-gift which, if forgotten, would have cost the bridegroom his bride, six camisas, fine as cobweb, em- broidered, deshiladoed, trimmed with precious lace. The bride's wedding-dress was made with a long pointed bodice and full flowing skirt, and a mantilla half hid her face and flowed almost to the hem of her gown. Luis wore his bravest uniform. It was the first great wedding that had taken place in California, and the priests of Santa Barbara celebrated it with all the pomp and ceremony of the Church. The older people vowed that it was worthy of a governor's wedding in the cathedral of the City of Mexico, but the younger were impressed only by the prospect of three days and nights of dancing.
When the festivities were over Luis and his bride set sail for San Francisco in the packet-boat that awaited them in the roadstead; and they were as glad and happy as they deserved to be, when at last they were in the quiet presi- dio, sheltered by its fogs and serenaded by the seals and the sea. Both are quieter to-day in the churchyard of Dolores, but for a while life seems to have smiled upon them. When they were tired of the gray peninsula they could go down to their ranch in the San Mateo Valley, El Pilar (sometimes known as Las Pulgas!), and bask in the sun or wander in the most beautiful woods in Califor- nia; and while Luis was Gobernador interino they lived in Monterey.
Argüello had none of that petty jealousy of foreigners which closed the doors for so many years to legitimate
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trade with the outer world. William E. P. Hartnell, an English merchant from Lima, Peru, was the first foreigner to become a permanent resident of California and es- tablish himself in business. This was in 1822, during Argüello's administration, and he found no difficulty in opening negotiations with the prefect of the missions for the purchase of hides and other native products. He married a daughter of Don José de la Guerra y Noriega in 1825 and became naturalized in 1830. It was during Argüello's administration also that another Englishman arrived who was to marry and settle in the country, William A. Richardson (some accounts say that he was a runaway sailor) ; and, shortly afterward, Capt. John Rogers Cooper, from Boston, who asked and received permission to trade, although the old law was still in force. But Argüello thought for himself, after his habit, remarking that "necessity was higher than law." Necessities, in- deed, came more and more rarely from that hotbed, Mexico, and luxuries not at all. The priests as well as the ranchers were clamoring; and Hartnell and Cooper, who had a hold-full of merchandise, obtained their own terms as well as the hospitality of the country. This was the formal inauguration of trade in California.
Luis also purchased Captain Cooper's schooner and sent it under his command to China, laden with otter-skins. Cooper disposed of them for a large sum which enabled the governor to pay the arrears of his officers and soldiers (also overlooked by Mexico) and to repay half of twenty thousand dollars he had borrowed of the missionaries. For all of these transactions he made himself personally responsible.
But his liberal views were not confined to business.
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His foreign friends introduced the waltz, which promptly went to both head and feet of the entire department. The young folks danced every night at the presidios, pueblos, and ranchos. They discarded the dances of the country-el son, el jota, the contradanza-and whirled up and down corridor and sala like madcaps, while parents shuddered and priests thundered. Both might as fruitfully have ordered the sea to lie still. The waltz became faster and more furious. Finally the Bishop of Sonora was appealed to. He issued an edict threatening all with excommunication who waltzed either in private or public. The young people were thrown into a panic. They dreaded excommunication with all their pious souls, and with all their youth they resented being bereft of the most delicious excitement they had ever known in that isolated land.
Comandante José Maria Estudillo was giving a party in the presidio of Monterey on the night the edict was tacked to the door of the church. The governor and his young wife were present. No one could talk of anything but the edict; if they could not waltz they cared not to dance at all, these Californians that had danced out of their cradles. Finally some wide-awake spirit conceived the idea of asking the governor's advice.
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