USA > California > Contra Costa County > History of Contra Costa County, California, including its geography, geology, topography, climatography and description; together with a record of the Mexican grants also, incidents of pioneer life; and biographical sketches of early and prominent settlers and representative men > Part 6
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History of Contra Costa County.
It will thus be seen that the wind, which has so general an influence upon our climate, comes directly from the Pacific Ocean, forces its way through the Golden Gate, and, striking the Contra Costa hills, is wafted into the many delightful valleys of the conterminous counties.
Tule Lands .- Tules are similar to the plant known in the Eastern States as "cat-tail," and may be termed a cross between the bulrush and flag, their blades being long, whip-like rushes, with a feather bloom, or stout in stem, with the black cat near the top, growing to an average height of four feet. They are perennial, for destroy them one year and the next they are in full force.
Of the large area of tule lands in Contra Costa County, but compara- tively a small acreage has been brought into cultivation, although some of the islands in the estuary of the San Joaquin have been reclaimed for years by means of constructing levees to repel the overflowing waters. When this is successful the result is a triumph, and includes immunity from drouth, healthful and pleasant climate, inexhaustible productive powers of soil, and being in the highway of steamboat traffic, cheap transportation.
Among the islands reclaimed we may mention Union Island, lying be- tween the old and middle channels of the San Joaquin, comprising about forty-five thousand acres, and owned chiefly by General T. H. Williams, of Oakland; Roberts Island, separated from Union Island by Middle River, and lying between it and San Joaquin proper, containing about sixty-eight thousand acres of land ; Sherman Island, between the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers, immediately above the point of juncture, containing upwards of fifteen thousand acres ; Kimball Island, opposite the town of Antioch, formerly owned by Captain Kimball, and others which we have not space to notice.
Upon reclamation of one of these islands, the first business is to destroy the tules by plowing and rolling, the rollers being a power of reproduction. The latter process is primitive and effective. The rollers are heavily weighted, double, ten feet in diameter, and are pushed into the tules by four horses, a man steering their course by means of a rudder wheel. The land is then plowed up in deep, wide furrows, and the roots of the weeds burned out. Potatoes are usually planted first, followed by beans, so that two crops are raised in the year, while, when in good working order, and free from floods, the fertility is fourfold that of ordinary upland.
Tule lands present a vast field for enterprise and capital, while the re- turns of produce show astonishing results. Fruits, cereals, bulbs, and vege- tables grow to rare perfection-indeed, no manner of cultivated plant, tree or shrub, that flourishes in any part of the United States, has yet been found to fail when tried on these lands, while they usually attain an extraordinary growth seldom equaled elsewhere.
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Agriculture .- Previous to the advent of Americans in California, little land was devoted to agriculture, for the Mexicans had but a crude idea of its science, and possessed just sufficient skill to cultivate enough of vegetable food to sustain life. They believed that mountain, hill and dale were in- tended for pastoral uses, and nothing else, therefore they sought not to bring the fertile valleys under the plow, and left Nature to pursue its own course. Perhaps their reason for so doing was the want of a market for cereals, for they always had one for hides and tallow; they were stock- raisers, not farmers, hence the little wheat and maize, beans, water-melons and onions they cultivated, were for home consumption rather than for outside wants.
When gold was discovered in 1848, the western world knew next to nothing about California, indeed it was an Ultima Thule to the best in- formed. With the frantic shibboleth of "gold" the whole world was set on fire, and "every kindred and tongue" flocked to the Pacific shores, and among them of course vast numbers of practical farmers ; but it was not grain they sought, it was gold. Happily there were a few whose minds were evenly balanced, who saw that all could not join in the search for " dust," and yet live. Food was imperatively necessary ; the Mexicans had not enough to sell, therefore in another way the mines yielded to the first agriculturists of California a surer fortune from mother earth than was to be gained by pick and rocker, still there were many who held to the belief that a country which for six months of the year knew no rain, could not be otherwise but a comparatively barren waste. But as time went on its fer- tility was fully proven, and the provisioning of the mining camps passed from the hands of the Mexicans entirely into those of the Americans, and great was their reward; even in 1850, onions and eggs commanded fifty cents apiece, and watermelons from two dollars and a half to double that sum.
The first to attempt the cultivation of the cereals within the present confines of Contra Costa County, was Doctor John Marsh, who settled on the Rancho Los Mejanos in or about the year 1837. With characteristic energy he at once commenced many improvements of a practical nature more in consonance with western ideas than those of his neighbors, while, with a rare intuition he declared his belief in the marvelous resources of California in a now famous communication to Hon. Lewis Cass, dated " Farm of Pulpunes, near St. Francisco, Upper California, 1846," in these words: "The agricultural capabilities of California are but very imper- fectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy, of excellent quality, are made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Apples, pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is beginning to be cultivated and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat I have ever
-
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History of Contra Costa County.
seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even one hundred and fifty has been produced .* Maize produces tolerably well, but not equal to some parts of the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a small scale, and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the principal pursuit of the inhabitants, and the most profitable."
Unhappily we are not in a position to state statistically what the Doc- tor's own success on his rancho was, or that in his letter to the illustrious statesman he recounted the capabilities of his own lands, suffice it to say that his domain was not the least productive in the county. The first actual precise knowledge we have been able to glean in regard to pioneer agricul- ture in the county is that the honor is due to the Hon. Elam Brown, of being the first to farm with any practical results in Contra Costa, for we learn from him that in 1850 a yield of about one hundred and five bushels per acre was obtained from an ancient cattle corral near his residence at Lafay- ette, to which place the first honors belong. The beautiful valley of San Ramon claims the second place, for here in 1853 R. O. Baldwin threshed out the produce of a field by the old process of horse stamping, and received more than fifty bushels per acre of excellent wheat, at the same time rea- lizing five hundred dollars for the yield of half an acre planted in onions.
It is sufficient for our purpose to know that these two gentlemen were the pioneer wheat-growers of Contra Costa, a county which thirty years thereafter has its every arable space one waving field of grain. It is not our province here to follow those others who came in their wake with other grains and vegetables, but rather to state the historical fact that Messrs Brown and Baldwin were the first to prove the wonderful adaptability of California soil to wheat culture in our county.
The first crops raised showed a prodigious out-turn, usually fifty or sixty fold, but unfortunately the science of farming was sunk into the greed of gain, the prolific soil was given neither rest, nor recuperative aid, and the perpetual croppings have resulted in diminishing the yield to about one half of the original product.
Dr. John Strentzel, in a valuable and exhaustive paper on the agricultu- ral and horticultural developments and resources of Contra Costa County, published for the first time during the year 1876 in the Contra Costa Ga- zette, states it can be safely assumed that for several years to come the area cultivated in wheat will be in the vicinity of sixty thousand acres, yielding nearly one and a half million bushels of wheat, and twenty thou- sand acres in barley, with an average product of seven hundred and fifty thousand bushels, or a total of both cereals of two and a quarter millions of bushels, representing a gross value in the San Francisco market, at
*The foregoing is not italicised in the letter of Dr. Marsh.
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present prices, of one million eight hundred and ninety-three thousand two hundred and fifty dollars. He further remarks, that but a slight percent- age of this is clear gain, and if the deterioration of the soil, consequent upon the elements of the loss of fertility, carried away in the grain-to- gether with a justly claimed percentage on the capital invested in farming -naught is left to the few thousand persons engaged in the industry but the absorption of former earnings and accumulations of former days. This showing, however, instead of having a depressing effect should rather stim- ulate the farmer, aware as he is that in good years the fertile hills surrounding the base of Mount Diablo and the prolific valleys of Pacheco, San Ramon, Moraga and Pinole teem with plenty and prove a source of wealth to the lucky possessor.
About two-thirds of the cultivated land in the county is devoted to wheat, it being more extensively grown than any other grain, while its berry is large, plump and hard, dry, white and strong, with much gluten, which makes a tough dough. Indeed, the California wheat generally has this peculiar property, which has gained for it the reputation of being the best in the world, while it is so hard that without mills specially adapted to it, it cannot be ground into flour.
Maize, Potatoes, Flax, Hemp, Alfalfa, and all other grains, tubers and grasses grow to perfection, as do all ordinary products coming under the order of things Agricultural.
In the above-quoted article of Dr. Strentzel we find: "The area of Contra Costa County is nearly four hundred thousand acres, which is classified, according to the Assessor's returns, as : First grade, or broken hill and mountain lands, salt marsh and swamp and overflowed lands, one hundred and fifty-six thousand acres, at the Assessor's valuation of from three to six dollars. The second grade are best grazing and poorest farming lands, and partially reclaimed swamp and overflowed lands, one hundred and twenty-three thousand six hundred acres, valued at six to thirteen dollars. Third grade, best farming lands east of the Diablo range, second quality valley and best hill lands lying west of the Diablo range, ninety- four thousand acres, valued at twelve to twenty-two dollars. Fourth grade, best valley lands lying west of the Diablo range, forty-four thousand five hundred and forty-four acres, valued at twenty-two to one hundred and ten dollars. Of coal lands, two thousand two hundred and sixty acres ; possessory claims, twenty-one thousand acres, a total of four hundred and forty-two thousand and four acres, valued at five millions one hundred and fifteen thousand three hundred and seventeen dollars.
" In comparing the small area under cultivation with the total aggregate of land, suitable for profitable culture, we are impressed with the oppor- tunities offered of its immense increase; thus, in the least valuable por- tion, classed as first grade, there are over seventy thousand acres of tule
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History of Contra Costa County.
delta around the mouth of the San Joaquin river, and overflowed land along its banks, and this land, when reclaimed, will surpass in abundance and variety of products the famous delta of the Nile. Why there is so little progress made in that line is because the work of reclaiming those tule lands is prosecuted rather as a job for fat contracts, and there is no well-devised system of procedure. The County Supervisors, acting nom- inally as Swamp Land Commissioners, do not appear to have power or inclination for effectively controlling the managers of the different Reclama- tion Districts to compel the payment of assessments for work done on con- tracts. In consequence, the work lags, with the apparent intent to freeze out smaller holders, and consolidate the princely domain into the hands of a few. From the experience so far gained in the reclamation work, it proves to be entirely feasible and facile of accomplishment ; and the success already achieved in raising bounteous and luxuriant crops surpasses the mcst hopeful anticipations.
" The value is enhanced by this tule locality being exempt from mias- matic disease, and its resemblance to the great country bordering on the Nord Sea-barring the roughness of that climate makes it appropriate to call ours the future Holland of the Pacific-the most valuable portion for dairy purposes and for endless luxuriant crops of grain. Almost as well the delicate children of Pomona's vegetable realm take kindly to the situa- tion ; their feet daily laved by the ever-recurring tides, find abundant food, and the long season of solar action elaborates it into saccharine juice. Ap- ples, pears, plums and berries grow to perfection, and any favoring knoll furnishes a home for a vine, where grapes, large and juicy, if not so sugary as those grown on the upland, produce a most abundant and excellent article for the table. The innumerable sloughs and water-courses, the natural roadways, are so many reservoirs for raising valuable kinds of fish, and will teem with animal food as soon as our legislators get awake to the importance of guarding and protecting public interests. Even the most broken and barren mountain land of that section will yield fresh range and outlooks for flocks of fleecy Angoras. Again will be spoken that word of ancient days, ' The stone which the builders rejected is become the head of the corner.'
" The second division comprises one hundred and twenty-three thousand six hundred acres. The first-class grazing lands include much undulating hill land, well adapted to grape-growing, which, owing to the dry climate of that section, will prove the most desirable for raisin culture. The poorest class of farming lands is so for want of water, and, if irrigated, may surpass the richest in abundant yield. The partially reclaimed lands need only higher and stronger levees, and a better knowledge of their management, to fully sustain the good repute they have acquired during favorable seasons. This scope of country, lying east of the Mount Diablo range, suffers with a
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minimum rainfall, and its sandy soils soon become parched and its vegeta- tion withered, rendering the crops uncertain. Whenever full irrigation can be practiced by the arrested waste of waters during copious rains, and from San Joaquin river, or artesian wells, it will be sought, for its mild Winters and early vegetation adapt it to the culture of semi-tropical fruits-its sandy soil found well suited for growth of the date, palm, tamarind, carol- tree, pistachio nut, olive and the orange family.
" The ninety-four thousand acres of third grade, and forty-four thousand five hundred and forty-four of fourth grade, comprise the garden spots of the county ; divided into small holdings, they will form a great hive of in- dustry, furnishing most desirable homes for the affluent, enjoyable with the beauty of most varied scenery, the mildness and salubrity of its climate, all within easy reach of the metropolis."
Although we have confined our remarks chiefly to grain-growing, stock- raising has a large share in the industrial resources of the county, the breeds of cattle, horses, sheep, swine, etc., imported from the Eastern States and abroad, being nowhere surpassed. Dairying is also carried on in a great degree, to such an extent, indeed, that the making of butter for sale has, as an industry, almost supplanted the rearing of cattle for the market, while sheep farming receives its due attention ; but all these give way to the rais- ing of wheat.
POMOLOGY .- Let us now take a retrospect of another division of pioneer labor, in the fields of horticulture, which, though not so pretentious in its growth, at the same time exercises not less abiding influence on our well being. It has been said, " Fine fruits are the flowers of commodities." A tree planted is an heirloom for future generations ; it is a sign of expanded culture and civilization ; its shade as grateful to the wayfarer as to its owner, without diminishing his substance. The Mission Fathers early planted orchards of such kind as it was then possible to transplant from Mexico or old Spain ; they had several varieties of pears, a few apples and almonds. Pomegranates, figs, olives and grapes were more assiduously cul- tivated. The grapes, mashed and fermented in large rawhide vats, yielded an amber juice celebrated for its sugary and fruity flavor. With the ex- pansion of settlements, such trees and vines were sparsely planted by the rancheros. In Contra Costa County, the earliest date, from the year 1835 or 1837, the largest fruit garden was that of Francisco Castro, near San Pablo ; next, that at Pinole, and somewhat later Dr. Marsh, of Los Mejanos, produced excellent grapes. On the advent of the Americans, fruit of any kind, and especially grapes, bore fabulous prices, inducing many, from the innate love of the occupation, others carried by the money point, to bend all their energies, supported by capital, untiring industry and persever- ance, to obtain from foreign countries the choicest and best varieties, and
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History of Contra Costa County.
acclimate them in our midst. Unfortunately the majority of trees thus obtained at exorbitant prices proved worthless, as not true to name, or not suited to the climate, or not satisfactory to public taste ; many were planted in improper locations, some dried up, and more were killed by irrigation or overflows.
A few fruit trees planted in the years 1851 and 1852 still survive, near Lafayette and Martinez. In 1853 this industry received an impetus by the labors of several citizens who then settled on El Hambre Creek ; the brushy dale was cleared after a hard struggle, and in the place of impenetrable bramble and chaparral, a luxuriant growth of fruit trees and vines covers the ground. In the opposite direction, near Clayton, another break was made with extensive vineyards, and these, proving the adaptation of the soil and climate, induced others to follow, and trees and vines, planted on the increase, mark the homesteads as the oases of grainfields. The culture of fruit for the home market is already overdone, but thanks to the enter- prise and inventive genius of our day, we can as well speed the rail car with the most perishable fruits in their natural condition, or preserve, desiccate and prepare them in any desirable manner, and then load the precious product of preserve or raisins on another "St. Charles " as easily as we do the golden wheat-with this difference in our favor, that we shall be thus a preferred producer, dispensing the flower of commodities, finding with us an extensive habitat, instead of an intruder on the home produc- tions of distant nations. Contra Costa County, within hail of San Fran- cisco, with the most perfect climate, possesses also the richest of soils, and admirable locations. Here a slope, basking in the full sunshine, fit to distil the sugar-essence of grapes; there a low, moist, cool valley, the home of the apple and plum ; or a rich, mellow, alluvial soil, sheltered, cosy and warm, where the peach blushes as a rose, and gives challenge for its sugary juici- ness. All this ground, if well cultivated, is abundantly watered by the dews of heaven, carried on soft wings to this their resting place. The choicest varieties of grapes grow to perfection. Pomegranates, olives, figs and almonds find a congenial home. Orangês require but' little shelter when young, not more than in Italy or Spain, soon get acclimated, and the golden fruit ripens well.
The experience now gained in the manner of cultivation, the selection of favorable locations, the knowledge of varieties desirable for certain uses, the way of preparing them for market, and the ready foreign demand now created for these products, make the venture now certain of pecuniary profit, and is soon to be considered indispensable in mixed and advanced husbandry-which we must now assiduously cultivate, if not wishing to be left behind in the race for prosperity and advancement. Thus, from five to twenty acres on each farm, planted with fruit suitable for drying, raisins or wine, will make a gradual transit from the old ways of farming, without
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jeopardizing present sources of income, and will create a demand for Alden factories, raisin camps and co-operative wine cellars. Then it will be ap- parent how long we have remained in an indolent, Rip Van Winkle slum- ber of grain-growing to supply cheap bread to distant nations, and impov- erishing ourselves for their sakes.
EARTHQUAKES .- There is a sort of nameless terror about an earth- quake to those who have never experienced one, and to many who have, the sensation is anything but pleasant. But they are trifles compared with the terrible thunder-storms and hurricanes that prevail on the other side of the continent. Hundreds of people are killed by lightning there, to every one that loses his life by earthquakes here. The thunder-storms and tor- nadoes have this advantage, however : they send their warning signals of gathering, skurrying clouds ahead, to prepare people for the dire disaster which may soon follow. The earthquake steals upon one when he least expects it. A sudden jarring of the earth, with perhaps a deep rumbling noise, followed by a quick, oscillating motion, which dies away in a gentle tremulous vibration, and all is quiet. The shock seldom lasts longer than eight or ten seconds. Many months sometimes intervene between these earth shocks, and then again we have known several to occur in a single day. For the last ten years they have been rare.
The heaviest shock experienced in this county since its occupation by Americans was on October 21, 1868, when several buildings were more or less injured. The shock extended for several hundred miles along the coast, caused considerable damage to property in San Francisco and other places, and taught architects the necessity of improving their methods of building, by bracing and strengthening their walls in a more secure manner. In the construction of chimneys, also, galvanized iron has been substituted largely for brick. Wooden buildings are considered earthquake proof. They are seldom damaged to any considerable extent by the shocks.
There are various theories concerning the reason of these disturbances, which at present, however, are mainly speculative. It is possible that scientific research may eventually fathom the cause, if not provide a remedy. The electric theory has many advocates. In other countries the equilibrium of the upper air currents of electricity and those of the earth is established and brought about through the medium of cloud conductors, as witnessed in the lightning's flash followed by the thunder peal. Here there are no cloud conductors during the Summer months. The earth, it is supposed, becomes overcharged with electricity, which seeks an equilibrium with the upper air currents ; hence the disturbance. This theory is strengthened by the fact that earthquakes usually occur in the Fall of the year when the clouds begin to gather and the air becomes filled with moisture. " Good earthquake weather," is what old residents designate a warm, cloudy day
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preceding the Winter rains. The "internal fire" theory has also its advo- cates. But whatever may be the cause, we much prefer an occasional earthquake to the frequent electrical disturbances that cause so much dis- aster to life and property in the Atlantic States.
ABORIGINES .- The beautiful valleys and mountain recesses of the Contra Costa afforded a grand home for the aboriginal tribes. Here they swarmed in large numbers, went through the drama of life, birth, consorting and death, with an almost stolid indifference. How far back in the course of time this race extends, or whence came their progenitors, no man knoweth. If, as some scientists assert, the very first evidences of the human race ap- pear on the Pacific Coast (at Angel's Camp, Tuolumne County), why should we doubt that they are the descendants of this primitive race ? Wars, dis- ease, natural phenomena, and other causes have conspired to destroy the original race from the face of the earth, or it may have remained for the pale-faced progeny of a kindred, yet far removed race, to perform the final act in the great drama of their existence as a people. Be that as it may, the great fact still remains, that when the Caucasians came to this coast they found it inhabited by a race of copper-colored people of peculiar phys- ique and habits, differing widely from their brethren of the East, the Alon- quins. The district now known as Contra Costa was no exception to the general rule, but was infested by a horde of these rude barbarians. To describe this people, their habits and customs, will be the object of the fol- lowing remarks.
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