USA > California > Contra Costa County > History of Contra Costa County, California, including its geography, geology, topography, climatography and description; together with a record of the Mexican grants also, incidents of pioneer life; and biographical sketches of early and prominent settlers and representative men > Part 9
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Early History and Settlement of Contra Costa County. 81
Their prayer for succor was, however, in vain; it never reached those to whom it was addressed. The schooners, after beating up to the latitude of Monterey, were compelled to turn back to the Santa Barbara channel, for want of water, and never reached the coveted port. They ultimately put back to San Diego, which they reached just in season to relieve that colony from starvation. The land expedition meanwhile prosecuted its weary march down the coast, encountering sickness, privation, and occasion- ally death, until on the 24th of January, 1770, it reached San Diego, whence it had started six months and ten days before.
Of the two missions established, those most connected with the Contra Costa were Santa Clara and San José, therefore let us give some account of their foundation.
In the month of September, 1776, His Excellency the Viceroy of Mexico, penned a communication to Don Fernando Rivera, the officer commanding at San Diego, informing him that he had received the intelligence that two missions had been founded in the vicinity of the Bay of San Francisco, and as the Commandante had been provided with the military guards for these, he would be happy to have his report. On the arrival of the dispatch Don Fernando, without loss of time, made arrangements for visiting the places designated, and placing the guards which he had retained at San Diego, in their proper quarters. After a long journey covering many days, he, with his twelve soldiers, arrived at Monterey, and there learned that only the Mission of San Francisco (Dolores, founded October 9, 1776) had been founded. Hence, he started for that place accompanied by Father Tomas de la Peña who, with another, had been appointed to perform the religious duties of the expedition. On their journey they came to the spot after- wards occupied by the Santa Clara Mission, and being captivated by its many charms and advantages, at once resolved there to locate a Mission. The party then continued their way to San Francisco, where they arrived on the 26th November. After visiting the presidio, as became a soldier, on the 30th the Commandante set out for Monterey, and dispatched Father Joseph Murguia, from the San Carlos Mission, where all the preparations had been made, accompanied by an escort and proper requirements, to found the new mission in the Santa Clara Valley, then known by the name of San Bernardino.
Towards the last days of the year 1776, the soldiers and their families who were to take part in the establishment of the new mission, arrived at San Francisco, and on January 6th Padre Peña, the officer in command of the presidio, the soldiers and their families, took up the line of march in quest of the chosen spot. Their first duty on reaching their destination was to erect a cross, which, with all solemnity, was blessed and adored; on January 12, 1777-one hundred and five years ago-an altar was raised under its outspread arms, and the first mass ever breathed in the district
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was said by Father Tomas de la Peña. In a few days Father Murguia and his followers joined them with the necessary paraphernalia for a settlement, and on January 18, 1777, the formal ceremony took place.
Cannot the reader conjure up the picture we have so faintly outlined ? Cannot he now see before him the devotional piety of the Holy Father To- mas, the respectful quiet of his followers, and the amazed gaze of the abo- riginals; with what care the sacred emblem of the Cross is raised ; with what reverential caution the building of the altar, sheltered as it is, is effected ? No sound is heard save prayerful utterances, may hap broken by grunts of astonishment from the bewildered natives who stand closely ob- serving the holy work from a respectful distance. The names of Father' Peña and Murguia must ever be held in welcome recognition of the part they took, far from society and kinsfolk, in founding a mission which has become a landmark for all time, in a valley where it would seem as if the Divine Hand had put forth its utmost skill to produce the fairest scene under the blue canopy of Heaven.
About seven years after the events above noted had taken place the holy Father Junipero Serra, President of the Missions of California, feeling that old age was fast overtaking him, as well as having some spare time, determined to visit some of the missions, to hold his last confirmations, and, having been invited to dedicate that of Santa Clara, also to perform that ceremony. About the first of May he visited the selected spot, and on the 4th continued his weary journey to San Francisco, accompanied by that devoted fellow-countryman Father Palou, a brother Franciscan Monk, a co-voyager to these shores, and afterwards his biographer, preferring to make his confirmations on his return. He had tarried in San Francisco but a few days when the distressing news of the illness of Father Murguia was received ; he thereupon dispatched Father Palou to Santa Clara, who found Murguia sick of a low fever. Unhappily this worthy man never rallied, and on May 11, 1784, his soul took its flight, while naught was left to his followers but the consolation that
"Death's but a path that must be trod, If man would ever pass to God."
The funeral took place, but the venerable Junipero was too enfeebled to attend; he, however, accompanied Don Pedro Fages, the Governor of the territory, to the dedicatory services of the mission, arriving on the 15th. On the meeting of the two Fathers their hearts were too full to speak ; with eyes suffused in tears, they grasped each others hands, and finally in a silent embrace, each sent aloft a prayer to Him who had seen fit in His wisdom to take away their revered brother.
Of the life and death of Junipero Serra, much has been written ; for the information of the reader, however, let us refer him to the subjoined paper which lately appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle, over the caption "N. V. S.":
Early History and Settlement of Contra Costa County. 83
MONTEREY, February 4, 1882.
In the hasty, anxious life which most Americans lead, it is generally supposed that there is little room or even desire for that pursuit to which so many residents of the Old World devote their lives, and that not from the hope of reward, but from pure love of it. I refer to the love of anti- quities-that searching into the memories of the past which seems to have so powerful a charm for some minds. It is difficult to divine a reason for this, unless it be that the sight of relics of a former time excite the imagina- tion to a train of thought so agreeably romantic that we are impelled again and again to seek the excitant, as the opium-eater returns to his drug. At any rate, the feeling exists and is latent in American breasts, only we have nothing for it to feed upon. I say nothing, but to-night I remembered that we have something when my eyes were attracted by the brilliant moonlight of Monterey striking full upon the white cross which marks the place where Father Junipero Serra first landed. The memory of a good man, who gave the labor of a long life solely to improve the state of his fellows certainly is sufficient to give to the finding of his bones a deep in- terest. Father Casanova, the present pastor of Monterey, is full of grati- fication with the result of his researches, and has kindly given some of the details of the discoveries.
The ancient records of the old Carmel Church were brought forth for our wondering eyes to gaze upon. They are, of course, yellow with age, and filled partly with the handwriting of Junipero himself, his signature standing out firm and clear, as if written but yesterday. These records contain quite an extended account of his death and burial, together with a description of the exact spot of interment. By means of this description Father Casanova was enabled to locate the grave of Junipero beyond a doubt, and thus made his recent discovery. The following is the passage referred to as translated :
Very Rev. Father Junipero Serra, D. D., President of all the Missions, died on the 29th of August, 1784, at the age of seventy-one years, and is buried in the sanctuary, fronting the altar of Our Lady of Seven Dolors, on the Gospel side.
There remained nothing but to face the altar of "Our Lady of Seven Dolors " in the sanctuary, and then commence digging next the altar on the Gospel side. That is what the workmen did, and their spades soon struck upon the stones covering the grave. Father Casanova produced a diagram illustrating the manner of formation of the grave and the condi- tion in which it was found. Originally the floor of the church was com- posed of brick tiles. Tourists visiting the church admire these tiles so greatly that they even go to the trouble to dig them up, break them to pieces and carry away bits of them. In this connection he also stated that one visitor even went so far as to take his penknife and cut from the can-
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vas a bouquet which was carried in the hand of a saint in one of the old paintings. This picture was much valued for its age and the association connected with it by the Padre and the parish ; but such considerations are as nothing to the hard heart of one in whom the love of antiquities has taken such an evil turn.
As was said before, the floor of the church was composed of tiles. The graves were apparently constructed with great care, being plastered and hard-finished inside as neatly as the wall of a house. The coffin was lowered into this plastered opening, and then large slabs of stone were fitted carefully over it, in such a manner that they were exactly level with the tiles form- ing the floor of the church. The tiles had gradually become covered with a layer of débris, which it was the first task of the workmen to remove. Upon reaching the slabs of stone covering the grave of Father Junipero it was found that the three covering the upper part of the grave were intact, but that those over the lower part had for some reason given way, so that about one-half of the coffin had been exposed to decay. The skull and ribs were found within, however, excellently well preserved, considering the time that they have lain there. Clinging to the ribs were found consider- able portions of the stole of violet silk, and its trimming of silver fringe, both blackened and crumbling with age. Upon being asked if he intends to pursue his investigations further, the Padre replied that he will certainly do so. In fact he has already reached the graves of two other priests, and also of two of the old Mexican Governors of California, who were buried, it seems, in the same part of the church, but on the opposite side of the altar. In the discovery of these he again went by the records, which pointed them out quite accurately.
The Padre says he intends to continue this search for these hallowed graves until he uncovers the whole of them, both of the Mission Fathers and of the Mexican Governors. As a large number are buried there, and as the work is prosecuted with care, it will probably be some time before a completion is reached. It is then the Padre's intention to have them properly replaced in the graves, the slabs of stone carefully arranged as they were originally, those wanting restored, and then to have each grave marked, so that in future they may be pointed out to visitors, with some account of the occupant of each. The Padre gave no hint of any such wish, but the thought crossed the mind of the correspondent that it would show good taste and feeling in the many wealthy Catholics who are doubtless to be found in California, if they would unite in the erection of a monument over the remains, worthy of the pioneer of their religion in California. The people of Monterey would gladly do this, but no doubt the lack of means prevents it. Junipero Serra was the founder of every Mission in Califor- nia-twenty-one in all. His history, briefly recounted by his friend and fellow-student, Francisco Palou, in language, whose very simplicity bears
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Early History and Settlement of Contra Costa County. 85
witness to its veracity, is such a one that every heart capable of apprecia- tion of the unselfish and noble in character must be filled with the deepest admiration by it. Protestants as well as Catholics must give honor to a man to whom it is so unmistakably due. According to a Catholic custom, a record of all deaths in Monterey and the Carmel Mission was kept by Junipero himself from the year 1770 up to the time of his death, in 1784. Each was written in a strong, bold hand, with the signature "Fr. Junipero Serra" at the end. Upon his death this record was continued by his suc- cessors. He made his last entry on the 30th of July. On the 29th of August Fr. Francisco Palou entered upon the record the fact of his death, the narrative of his life and circumstances of his death.
According to this account Serra was born in the Province of Majorca, in Old Spain. He was a man of thorough education and unusual accom- plishments. Before coming to California he had enjoyed the honors of high position both in Spain and Mexico. When only a little over nineteen years of age, he put on the dress of the Order of San Francisco. He was a gradu- ate of the schools of theology and philosophy, and was given the professor- ship of each in a royal university. These positions he filled in the most highly honorable manner. At this time he was in the receipt of large revenues and had good prospects for advancement to almost any position that he might care to aspire to. But wordly ambition of this kind had no place in his soul. Brilliant prospects, a life of luxury, associations which were doubtless pleasant to a man of his culture-all this he chose to leave behind him for the purpose of entering upon a life of danger, toil and pri- vation, for which he could only expect a reward after death. Perhaps even the hope of that reward influenced him less than the simple consciousness of duty. His first step was to resign his professorship. He then joined the College of Foreign Missions in Cadiz, probably because there he could obtain the most authentic information for the purpose which he had in view. In 1749 he embarked at Cadiz for Mexico. The voyage occupied the tedious period of nearly a year-long enough to have cooled the zeal of a less earnest man. He arrived in Mexico, January 1, 1750, with interest in his work unabated. At that time there were many missionary societies in Mexico, and Junipero was sent by them to prosecute the work in various directions, in each case exhibiting the same wonderful earnestness and pe- culiar adaptation to such a life. It was probably to this power which he possessed of throwing his whole soul into his labors that his success was mainly due. In Mexico he gained the friendship and close confidence of the Viceroy, and took position among the highest in the Church.
In 1767 he was appointed by the General of the Catholic establishments in New Spain to the presidency of the fifteen Missions in Lower California, then under management of the Jesuits. He crossed the gulf and made his headquarters at Loreto. From that place he was constantly going out upon
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visits to the other Missions, inspiring each with his own zeal. But even then he did not think his life sufficiently occupied nor his duty accomplished. He was constantly tormented by thoughts of the thousands of unfortunate creatures still in a savage state whom he knew to inhabit the great unknown region extending to the north. He had the true pioneer spirit forever urg- ing him on, and he soon formed the resolution to embark for what was then a distant land. Not much was then known of California, but Serra had seen charts describing the Bays of San Diego and Monterey. In 1769 he left Loreto in company with an exploring party going north in search of these two points. He stopped on the way at a point on the coast near the frontier of Lower California, and founded the Mission of San Fernando de Bellicota. The next stopping-place was the port of San Diego, where he remained long enough to found the Mission. During his stay at this place the exploring party went on, but returned the next year, having failed to discover the Bay of Monterey. In 1770 Serra again set out to find this bay, sending a party by land at the same time. As usual with most of his undertakings, the search was successful. Having landed at the spot so often mentioned in the descriptions of Monterey, and having taken formal possession of the country in the name of the King of Spain, Serra began the working out of the plan so long in his mind.
He first founded the Mission of San Carlos de Monterey, which always remained the central point of his operations. With this as his headquarters, he went out from time to time into various parts of the country, and one by one established and encouraged into a flourishing condition all the other Missions of California. As before stated, they were twenty-one in all. Taking into consideration the very small number of white men who assisted him in these labors, the rapidity of his success was something remarkable. There is no doubt that it is to be ascribed to the kindness, gentleness and ever-enduring patience which he invariably exhibited toward the Indians. In the construction of the churches, for instance, upon which we look with so much astonishment when told that they were built by the traditionally lazy Indian, it is very likely that he employed large numbers upon the work, in order that it should not bear too heavily upon individuals. He certainly employed methods of great wisdom in the management of these ignorant creatures, and could he have been endowed with a miraculous life of several hundred years, might well have given the lie to the oft-repeated complaints of Americans, that it is impossible to civilize the Indians. But it is too late now for us to study his methods. Only a handful of Indians remain to meet yearly on the day of San Carlos and raise their quavering chant over the grave of Junipero. As a natural result of his treatment of them, the Indians came to look upon Serra almost with adoration. They loved him for his gentleness, they respected him for his firmness, and they admired him for his ability. But every life, however valuable, must finally
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James J.Walker
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Early History and Settlement of Contra Costa County. 87
draw to a close, and in August, 1784, Junipero felt that his end was ap- proaching. On the morning of the 27th, being very ill, he began to prepare for death.
He first confessed himself to his friend, Francisco Palou, and went through the ceremonies of the dying. Then, ill and suffering as he was, he went on foot to the church to receive the sacrament. The building was crowded with both whites and Indians, drawn thither by a common grief. At the beginning of the ceremony the hymn 'Tantum Ergo' was sung, and according to the record Junipero himself joined in the singing with a " high, strong voice." We can easily realize that the congregation became so much affected upon hearing him sing his own death chant that they were unable to sing more, and, choking with emotion, sat listening, while the dying man's voice finished it alone. He then received the sacrament upon his knees, and recited thanks, according to the ritual, in a distinct voice. This ceremony over he returned to his cell, but did not lie down or take off any of his clothing. In the night he asked Palou to administer holy unction to him and join with him in the recital of the penitential psalms and lit- anies. The remainder of the night he passed in giving thanks to God, sometimes kneeling and sometimes sitting upon the floor. Early the next morning he asked Palou to give him plenary indulgence, and once more con- fessed himself. Shortly afterwards the Captain and the Chaplain of a Spanish vessel which was then in the harbor came in. Serra received them in his usual manner, when in health, cordially, and embracing the Chaplain with warmth. He thanked God that these visitors from afar, who had traversed so much of land and sea, had come in time to throw a little dirt on his body. Conversing with Palou, he expressed some anxiety and asked him to read the recommendation of the soul.
He then said that he felt comforted, and thanked God that he had no fear. After a time he asked for a little broth, and was supported into the kitchen, where he sat down and drank a little. He was assisted to his bed, and no sooner touched it than he fell back in death. Having been for some time expecting his end, he had ordered his own coffin to be made by the carpenter of the Mission. This was now brought out, and the body placed in it without changing the clothing. It was then carried to the church to await burial. The church bell notified the people of the event, and all gathered within for a last look at the dead face of their beloved friend and benefactor. They gathered closely around the coffin and attempted to secure pieces of his clothing to preserve as sacred relics. They were with difficulty prevented from doing this by the promise that a certain tunic, which he had been in the habit of wearing in life, should be divided among them. A guard was placed over the body, but notwithstanding the close watch which was kept, some part of the vestment was taken away in the night. The funeral ceremonies were conducted with great state, people
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coming from every direction to take part in it. The solemn tolling of the church bells and the firing of salutes by the vessel in the harbor, added to the impressiveness of the occasion. Such is the account of the life, death and burial of Junipero Serra, as written in the records by his friend Fran- cisco Palou, without comment or exaggeration. And now those bones, so solemnly laid to rest on that day, are once more brought forth to the light, in order that the memory of such a character may not be entirely forgotten.
Let us for a moment take a cursory glance at the mode of construction of these establishments. Father Gleeson tells us, in his able and valuable "History of the Catholic Church in California," that the Missions were usually quadrilateral buildings, two stories high, inclosing a court-yard ornamented with fountains and trees. The whole consisting of the church, Father's apartments, store-houses, barracks, etc. The quadrilateral sides were each about six hundred feet in length, one of which was partly occupied by the church. Within the quadrangle, and corresponding with the second story, was a gallery running round the entire structure, and opening upon the ' workshops, store-rooms and other apartments.
The entire management of each establishment was under the care of two Religious ; the elder attended to the interior and the younger to the exterior administration. One portion of the building which was called the Monastery, was inhabited by young Indian girls. There, under the care of approved matrons, they were carefully trained and instructed in those branches neces- sary for their condition in life. They were not permitted to leave till of an age to be married, and this with a view of preserving their morality. In the schools, those who exhibited more talent than their companions, were taught vocal and instrumental music, the latter consisting of the flute, horn and violin. In the mechanical departments, too, the most apt were promoted to the position of foremen. The better to preserve the morals of all, none of the whites, except those absolutely necessary, were employed at the Missions.
The daily routine at each establishment was almost the same as that followed by the Jesuits in Lower California. At sunrise they arose and proceeded to church, where, after morning prayer, they assisted at the holy sacrifice of the mass. Breakfast next followed, when they proceeded to their respective employments. Toward noon they returned to the Mission, and spent the time from then till two o'clock between dinner and repose, after which they again repaired to their work, and remained engaged till the evening angelus, about an hour before sundown. All then betook them- selves to the church for evening devotions, which consisted of the ordinary family prayers and the rosary, except on special occasions, when other de- votional exercises were added. After supper, which immediately followed, they amused themselves in divers sports, games and dancing, till the hour for repose. Their diet, of which the poor of any country might be justly
Early History and Settlement of Contra Costa County. 89
envious, consisted of an abundance of excellent beef and mutton, with vegetables in the season. Wheaten cakes and puddings, or porridges, called " atole and pinole," also formed a portion of the repast. The dress was, for the males, linen shirts, pants, and a blanket to be used as an overcoat. The women received each, annually, two undergarments, a gown, and a blanket. In years of plenty, after the Missions became rich, the Fathers distributed all the surplus moneys among them in clothing and trinkets. Such was the general character of the early Missions established in Upper California.
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