History of San Luis Obispo County and environs, California, with biographical sketches, Part 4

Author: Morrison, Annie L. Stringfellow, 1860-; Haydon, John H., 1837-
Publication date: 1917
Publisher: Los Angeles, Calif., Historic Record Company
Number of Pages: 1070

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Founding of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa

Father Junipero Serra was on a return journey from Monterey to San Diego, where he went to confer with the authorities, and stopped to found the mission of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, the fifth in order of establish-

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

ment. He brought with him Fray Jose Caballar from San Antonio Mission to assist in the ceremonies. They killed bear on the Los Osos for food, and this pleased the Indians.

The party arrived August 19, 1772, but the ceremonies of founding were not performed until September 1, 1772. While a mission here had been set- tled upon, the intervening days were spent in deciding the exact location, and the present site on the north bank of San Luis creek was chosen. The Fathers blessed and put in place the holy cross. A bell was suspended from a branch of a large sycamore on the edge of the creek. After ringing it for some time to attract the attention of the Indians, a priest advanced towards the wondering Indians, crying out, "Ea, gentiles, venid, venid, á la Santa Iglesia, venid, venid, á recibir la fé de Jesu Cristo." (O gentiles, come ye, come ye to the holy church. Come, come and receive the faith of Jesus Christ.") Mass was then sung to the multitude, though they understood not a word. Thus was founded San Luis Obispo de Tolosa Mission, destined to become the richest of all the missions, and in spite of the hand of man to continue a place consecrated to the religion of "Jesu Cristo" unto the present . day, and in all probability for centuries to come.

The erection of buildings began in 1773, and passed from simple to fine proportions as the wealth and population of the mission increased, reaching its zenith some years before the secularization. Schools were established, orchards and vineyards were planted, vast areas were sown to grain and wealth flowed into the mission coffers. A great storehouse was built at Santa Margarita, one hundred ninety feet long, and some say a chapel also. The storehouses were never emptied. The Fathers always kept a re- serve to offset the lean years when the drought came upon the land. A launch was built and carried grain, hides and tallow to Santa Barbara. The Indians were housed in rows of small adobe buildings. They were taught many of the ruder arts of civilization. Those musically inclined were taught singing, and to play the violin and a sort of rude organ. They were clothed and well fed. With its red-tiled roofs, whitewashed walls and beautiful setting, the mission was a wonderful sight to all beholders. Its hospitality was un- bounded.

Many are the tales told of when a cavalcade of visitors arrived and stayed for days. Often it was a bridal party from the south bound for Mon- terv; and to entertain a bride on one occasion, all the poultry was assorted wer night and in the morning driven past the church for her delight. It was a policy procession, and the newly-made Señora was vastly amused.

Wealth of the Mission

lowih wij sion, when founded, received a quota of cattle, sheep, horses will antes. All the stock was propagated from animals originally brought Inno Stdo 1: 0 0me that escaped came the herds of wild horses and mol the western plains and valleys. The vestments, Ar 0506 00 aberments were magnificent, and in the treasure chests Tolie do ct calualde relies;

Trwa wron di the wealth of this mission about 1828. this is, taken. Re- Hemforthe jade were wie ; the, streams were used to irrigate the orchards wod po weby the urlds ofgrain. "Grown cattle, 8,700 head; 2,000 tame

Mission San Luis Obispo, Cal. Founded 1772.

MISSION SAN LUIS OBISPO

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

horses; 3,500 mares ; 3,700 mules; 7,200 sheep." In 1827 the major-domo scattered on the ground one hundred twenty bushels of wheat and scratched it in with wooden "harrows." There was no plowing. From this he harvested 7,000 bushels of wheat. The priest then in charge, Luis Martinez, returned to Spain in 1828 and carried with him $100,000 as the fruits of his ranching. Possibly not all this wealth was gathered from agriculture and grazing. There are stories of rich mines that once yielded up their treasures. It is said that a priest once came from Spain with a map to locate a mine near San Luis Obispo; and in the Arroyo Grande regions old furnaces have been found. Not many years since, two men searched in the mountains between here and Santa Margarita for the "lost mines."

It is more than likely, if ever such mines existed, that the angered priests caused all trace of them to be destroyed when the act of secularization of 1833 went into force.

Later History of the Mission

After the flocks and herds were taken, the land was given to the hated "Gringos" or the Spanish favorites. The Indians were scattered and the priests in anger left the missions. The buildings rapidly passed from glory and riches to poverty and decay. Volumes have been written on this subject, but the story here must be brief. Often the orchards were destroyed, and the vessels of the Church buried or hidden with some faithful family in the hope that some day the vast possessions of the Church would be restored.

Mission San Luis Obispo was claimed by John Wilson by right of pur- chase, but eventually 52.72 acres was deeded to the Church, and in 1874 the portion south of the creek was laid out in town lots and sold. For almost forty years after the secularization act of 1833, the mission was used by the public. In it rooms were used for jails, courts, barracks, saloons, schools, hotels, stores, restaurants and dwellings. It fell rapidly into a dilapidated condition, but strange as it may seem, through almost forty years of deso- lation its holy vessels, its interior treasures, remained untouched.

The devoted Junipero Serra had spent fifty-three years of his life in his Master's service in the New World. Feeling the end near, he retired to the Mission Carmel at Monterey and went to his reward August 29, 1784, aged seventy-one years. Perhaps the Master he had served so well gave his spirit charge of this beloved mission, and the holy things were not profaned. In 1847 the mission was repaired, as it was liable, under the change of govern- ment then taking place, to become very valuable. John Wilson claimed it still, but Father Gomez maintained possession of the chapel. In 1880 it was thor- oughly renovated, and the once beautiful old corridor removed. Ever since then the building has been at times repaired, and the historic old pile is now the chief attraction for visiting tourists.

San Miguel Mission

This mission was founded July 25, 1797, and is the sixteenth one estah- lished. San Miguel Archangel stands upon the west side of the Salinas river near the junction of the Estrella, and amid leagues of fine land for- merly used for grazing but now devoted to ranching. Great trees dot the valley, and in mission days vast herds roamed the pastures. It is forty miles north of San Luis Obispo and four miles south of the northern boun-

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

dary of the county. The mission became very prosperous, at one time owning 91,000 cattle, 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 340 oxen and 47,000 sheep. It claimed 6,000 Indian converts, and soldiers, priests and other whites necessary to manage such vast estates. Ranchos San Marcos and Paso Robles were the chief tracts cultivated. Wheat and beans were raised. Fine gardens and orchards surrounded the building and a great wall enclosed them.

The old church seems almost indestructible. It stands facing the east, and to the south a wing extends, once 490 feet long. Most of this is now in ruins. The church itself is 230 feet by 44 feet, and 45 feet to the eaves. The walls are seven feet thick. The roof is of tiles, in fine state of preservation. The inside is frescoed, and the colors are still good. The altar stands at the west end, guarded by its patron saint, Michael the Archangel, with extended sword. The floor is of tiles or brick.

Through all its vicissitudes the beautiful vestments and altar service have been retained, and about the old building within its broken walls hangs a brooding silence. Services are held in the church, and the faithful are still buried in its consecrated ground. Blankets were woven here by the Indians. Water from the Santa Ysabel springs was carried by ditches to the mission, a distance of nearly fifteen miles. Out of its possessions six great grants were made, totaling 116,945 acres. These will be mentioned in the chapter devoted to the land grants. The faithful Father Farrelly did much to restore the mission in the eighties and nineties. Rev. Fr. Nevin has charge of the mission at the present time, and has labored zealously to restore the church.

Relics of the Mission Days

The furnaces found about Arroyo Grande valley have already been men- tioned. On the Santa Ysabel ranch are remains of the old dams and irriga- tion ditches that used to carry the water from the great springs there to the San Miguel Mission orchards and fields. About five miles south of San Luis Obispo is the Corral de Piedra (stone corral). This region takes its name from the stone corrals built by the mission Indians in the days when they lived, to the number of six hundred or more, in the San Luis Mission. Some years ago one of these corrals was taken down and built up again to form the boundary line between the ranch owned by Mrs. C. I. Thompson and that of David Mitchell. The wall is all of three-fourths of a mile long, about three and one-half feet high and two and one-half feet wide. On the Miossi ranch, three miles further towards the ocean, is another long wall, probably a part of some big corral. This used to be known as the Cavitas (cave) from the caves in the rocks. In the city of San Luis Obispo are some giant olive and pepper trees of the old mission gardens, still a joy to the living and monu- ments to the devoted souls who planted them.

San Luis Obispo Mission was the first one to have a tiled roof. The Tulare Indians had been accustomed to make trips to this section for game, as the Carissa plains swarmed with deer and elk, and the coast region with bears ; so much so that Portola's soldiers' names, Oso Flaco (lean bear) and Los Osos (the bears), were so appropriate no one has ever troubled to change them. In 1775, three years after the founding of the mission, a marauding band of Tulare Indians attacked the San Luis Mission in the night, firing lighted arrows into the thatched roofs of the buildings. The roofs ignited and

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

much damage resulted. Then tiles were made, and all repaired building- and new ones were tile-roofed. San Miguel suffered from Indian attacks, and during its years of misfortune after secularization, was the scene of awful crimes. These will be related in another chapter.

CHAPTER III California During the Mexican Revolt

While the missions were growing in wealth and the conditions of the Indians happy or otherwise, everything depending on the priests in charge, Mexico was having troublous times. From the conquest of Cortez, Mexico had been a dependency of Spain, and her country and people made to dis- gorge wealth to fill the Spanish treasury. The government was tyrannical, and all were tired of it, but no one arose against it until Father Hidalgo, on September 16, 1810, with a small number of followers, revolted against the rule of Spain. In 1822, Mexican independence was acknowledged, and in 1824 a republican form of government was adopted. During these years of revolution in Mexico, California remained in peace under her Spanish governors, with only a ripple or two to disturb the even tenor. The Mexicans had executed Iturbide when he came back from his exile in Italy in 1824 with the hope of being reinstated Emperor of Mexico. The news of this reached the Indians at the missions, and they proceeded to inaugurate a little civil service reform of their own.

The chief of the San Diego Indians was not a popular official, so they proceeded to burn him at the stake and celebrated with a week's feast. When the priest rebuked them for the deed, they cited the fate of Iturbide, saying, "Have you not done the same in Mexico? You say your king was not good : well, our captain was not good, so we burned him, and if the new one shall be bad, we will burn him also." This order of making officials good might be still practiced with splendid results.

At Santa Ynez, in 1822, the Indians revolted. Two priests were in charge and one of them was cruelly put to death; the other, a powerful man, escaped to the guard-house, where four soldiers, under a corporal, were always kept as a sort of police force. The Indians shot showers of arrows and the guard were demoralized, when the priest himself took command. The shaven head, the sandaled feet, gray gown and cord of St. Francis did not prevent the priest from showing the man and using carnal weapons.

"Ho, Father," shouted a young Indian, "is that the way to say mass?" "Yes, I am saying mass, my son. Here | holding up the cartridge box] is the chalice, here [showing his carbine] is the crucifix, and here goes my benediction to you, you -," using a foul epithet as he fired, killing the tormentor.

A sufficient force was at last collected from the other settlements, the Indian converts were followed to the Tulare valley, the ringleaders were shot, and the rest forced to return to the missions. The president of the missions thought fit to punish the violent priest for using strong language, so his clerical orders were revoked for a year and he was sent to live at San Luis Obispo Mission during his punishment. A friend stopping at the mission 2

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

rallied him on his plight, and he replied, "The old fool thinks he is punishing me. Here I have no mass to say, and nothing to do but eat and drink. He knew I was a soldier before I was a priest. When those accursed Indians drove me back to my old trade, how could I help using my old language?"

When Mexico became independent, California followed suit. In 1822, the Spanish governor, Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, and others at Monterey issued a declaration of independence of Spain and took oath of allegiance to the des power, Mexico. The heads of the military and church authorities joined with the civil authorities, and Governor De Sola held his office for a year un ler the new government.

Beginning of the End

The new government at once began steps to supersede ecclesiastical wer with secular authority. It was contended that the missions had failed ( dryili e the Indians. Over fifty years had passed, and Christianity had ap- procently little hold on the natives. The power of the priests and the vast welth of the missions were covered by the secular authorities, so steps were talon to bring the priests under control. In 1824 and 1826, the Mexican component passed laws suspending the pay of the priests and releasing all Inimas from slavery. This act was premature; for the Indians, having lenmed all the vices of the white man and few of his virtues, "took to the www .. " robbing and stealing. Cattle were run off by the hundreds into the 1011- 001 canons. The existence of the settlements was threatened by law- less foods. The law was repealed, and many of the Indians were induced to return to the missions. Things went on about as before for a while.

\ vicious element of discharged soldiers had come to California from Mesien. They incited the Indians to insurrection, and led all sorts of out- rages. Manuel Victoria was appointed to put down this criminal element and pom-bed a few as they deserved, but there were those who claimed the niet were being abused. Open hostility broke out, and Jose Maria Avila led the guil reak which began at San Diego. Victoria's friends put Avila in moi and waited for the next move. Governor Victoria left Monterey and reathed Son Fernando, near Los Angeles, December 4, 1831. A party of the why confe forces reached Los Angeles the same evening, and Avila was rolei.d. - Wer ring he would kill Victoria. He led his followers to Cahuenga Da, whom chelt miles west of the city, and the parties halted for a parley ; er viti podled upon Victoria and wounded him in the side. Romualdo Iciientparajel the thrust, but before he recovered his guard he was run Victoria drew his pistol, shooting Avila, who fell from his Time - the woman instant Pacheco dropped from his.

Do Stasien Trees went to the San Gabriel Mission, while those under Vila . How Themselves Californians, went back to Los Angeles. Victoria meniennt .. voy war and returned to Mexico, January 15, 1832. The bodies Die fer werda ben to the town and buried side by side. Now followed o gostoso ilhering to Victoria as governor : but finally Pio Pico was di pole wormen fal u terim, and Los Angeles the capitol de facto. General The | To pay arrive at 1523 and some degree of order was restored.

The Act of Secularization

At 18.3 911 explanation act was enacted. In 1834 the governor began terenTure. ileor at least is ne l orders for its enforcement. This act sought

1729149

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS 35

to do away with the supreme power of the priests, to release the lands held by the missions for settlement, and to put the missions on the same footing as the parish churches. The rules issued in 1834, to take effect in August, 1835, were designed to do justice to all. In fact, they were these: To each head of a family and all who were more than twenty years old, though with- out families, a plot of ground not more than three hundred yards square nor less than one hundred yards square was to be given from the mission lands. Sufficient land in common was to be set aside for watering the cattle. Vil- lages with roads were to be established and corporation lands designated. Half of the movable property of the missions was to be distributed to the Indians, and one-half of the seeds and roots and one-half of all implements indispensable for agriculture. The other half of all property mentioned was to be in the care of an agent, or steward, named by the supreme government, and from the common mass of property, the expenses of missionary work, the stewards, churches, schools, cleanliness and health were to be met.

The missionary priest was to select the place he desired for his residence and for his servants' houses. They were to be fully furnished for him. The vestment, library and furniture of the church were to be under the care of a sexton chosen by the priest. The sexton was held responsible for the prop- erty in his care, and a salary was to be paid him by the proper government official.

Inventories of all the property of each mission, lists of all books, papers. charges with dates and descriptions of the credits, liquidated or otherwise, with their respective marks and explanations, were required to be made to the supreme government. Laws were made for governing the villages. The emancipated Indians were required to assist in the care of the vineyards, and other things maintained for the public good. The Indians were not allowed to sell or mortgage the lands or cattle ; if they did so, the cattle, lands, etc., were seized by the government, and the purchaser forfeited his money. The politi- cal chief settled all disputes, and appointed those necessary to carry out the laws of secularization. The priests were ordered to hand over to the com missioners all books of accounts, all houses, churches, workshops, utensils and furniture, save that belonging to the homestead. The stock was estimated by two responsible parties ; for so vast was the number, and so few the horses that could be ridden for a general round-up, that an actual count was out of the question.

It was during these years of trouble that the great land grants were made. It was urged that so much land was not needed for the mission herds. and many an enterprising "Gringo" became a naturalized Mexican citizen. married a Spanish or Mexican woman, and shared in the lands wrung from the missions. The Fathers were in no position to resent this, nor should they have held such vast tracts longer; but it was a bitter experience for them. Influential families were given vast grants, and it was no trick at all to stock them from the mission herds running at large.

The End of Mission Rule

Abandoned by the Mexican government and plundered by the Califor nians, ruin faced the missions. The priests again showed their purely human side (no discredit to them) and began slaughtering the cattle for their hides and tallow. One-half the hides were given for killing and skinning, and the plains recked with decaying carcasses. Over all hovered the vultures of the

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

sky, and in the background rapacious human vultures; for often the lowest passions, lust for wealth, and lust of women, were no little factors in the transaction.

The writer knew a man, rich and influential, who got a great tract of rich Sacramento valley land along with his Mexican (half-breed Indian) wife. She bore him two daughters and a son. He divorced or set aside the Mexican wife and married a woman from a prominent family. There was some illegal- ity somewhere ; for in 1884 he adopted his own son in order to make him a legal heir to his own mother's land. However, the son inherited the bad traits of both sides of his ancestry ; for he gambled and drank away his patri- mony. Fourteen years later he was seen squatting on the streets of his native town, a fat, greasy "Injun," begging a drink or tobacco from men he once called his equals.

The Indians who once lived at the missions and looked upon the cattle as theirs, stole all they could. Bands of Indians from Mojave, the San Joaquin plains, and even from Oregon and the Rockies, raided the rich coast ranches. As late as 1840, "Peg Leg Smith," a noted scout, led a band of Indians from the Bear river in California and drove off seventeen hundred head of horses. This continued more or less until the Americans came in sufficient force to put a stop to it.

Governor Figueroa, worn out and disgusted with the rapacity and dis- honesty of the people, died September 29, 1835. Then he was lauded and called "The Father of California." His remains were carried in a vessel from Monterey to Santa Barbara, and buried in a vault at the mission, with all the honors due him.

Slowly but surely the secularization of the missions went on and by 1845 utter devastation marked some of them, while poverty stalked through the deserted rooms and down the long, pillared corridors of the rest. The his- torian may only repeat the facts as gleaned from ancient diaries, old books and the best written records, but the poet and the artist have idealized, and will continue to idealize, the mission days, throwing about them all a halo of religious zeal, romantic loves and valorous deeds. As such, the writer likes best to think of them.

CHAPTER IV The American Conquest

Peron San Diego to San Francisco the people were almost entirely Span- Hall "There were two classes: those who were pure Castilian, very careful to mjjan ., and the Mexicans. These were of all degrees, both in color and in the ir claim to Spanish blood, a race produced by the intermarriage of Spanish and Indian parents. The least claim to a Spanish ancestor was a mark of dignity, and kept the individual apart from the Indians, both in social standing and in clothes. Some people still adhere to the belief that clothes and caste are synonymous. The pure Castilians spoke Spanish beautifully, were of fair complexion, often even blonde, and avoided marrying outside their class. The Mexicans spoke a mixture of Spanish and Indian words probably quite dif-

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY AND ENVIRONS

ferent from the speech of the superior class who were the rulers, socially and otherwise.

The grandees lived at Los Angeles, Santa Barbara and Monterey or on the great ranches, where an almost feudal style of living existed. Countless Indians and Mexicans did the work indoors or out. Cattle were the only things raised for an income, though each ranch owned hundreds of horses, some saddle animals being very beautiful, and all capable of fleetness and endurance. The men were often handsome and dressed well ; and the women, in many cases extremely lovely, dressed in silks, laces and dainty mus- lins when attending the numerous fandangoes. Dancing, horse racing and bull fighting were the main amusements. Hospitality was unbounded. Often a cavalcade of men and women all mounted on fine horses, the men with silver- or gold-trimmed sombreros, saddle and spurs, would go on a visit to one ranch, then to the next, and remain a week at cach, feasting, dancing and enjoying the gay, easy life. Weddings were great events. If you want to know more about these days, read Dana's "Two Years before the Mast," and Atherton's "Splendid Idle Forties."

North of San Francisco and to the east, Americans were coming in rapidly ; and John A. Sutter, the wealthy, ambitious Swiss, was gathering about him a band of daring men. He dreamed of a new Helvetia and himself its leader. That portion of California now embraced in the County of San Luis Obispo was sparsely settled. Around the missions chung a few Mexi- , cans and Indians after the secularization took away their glory. Captain John Wilson was the wealthiest man in the county in 1850. His taxes were $639.20. He owned the Los Osos, Pecho, Chorro and other ranches; and it will be remembered that at one time he claimed the San Luis Mission. He was a Scotchman, a sea captain, coming from Peru in 1830. He married Doña Ramona Pacheco, widow of Don Romualdo Pacheco, killed by Avila near Los Angeles, as has already been related. She was the mother of Governor Pacheco. Captain Wilson died at San Luis Obispo in 1800.

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History of San Luis Obispo County and environs, California, with biographical sketches, Part 4

Author: Morrison, Annie L. Stringfellow, 1860-; Haydon, John H., 1837- Publication date: 1917 Publisher: Los Angeles, Calif., Historic Record Company Number of Pages: 1070

Author: Morrison, Annie L. Stringfellow, 1860-; Haydon, John H., 1837-
Publication date: 1917
Publisher: Los Angeles, Calif., Historic Record Company
Number of Pages: 1070