USA > California > History of the State of California and biographical record of Coast Counties, California. An historical story of the state's marvelous growth from its earliest settlement to the present time > Part 3
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In 1540 Cortes returned to Spain to obtain, if possible, some recognition and recompense from the king for his valuable services. His deelin- ing years had been filled with bitter disappoint- ments. Shipwreck and mutiny at sea; disaster and defeat to his forces on land; the treachery of his subordinates and the jealousy of royal of- fieials continually thwarted his plans and wasted his substance. After expending nearly a million dollars in explorations, conquests and attempts at colonization, fretted and worried by the in- difference and the ingratitude of a monarch for whom he had sacrified so much, disappointed. disheartened, impoverished, he died at an ob- scure hamlet near Seville, Spain. in December, 1547.
The next exploration that had something to do with the discovery of California was that of Hernando de Alarcon. With two ships he sailed from Acapulco, May 9. 1540, up the Gulf of Cal- ifornia. His object was to co-operate with the expedition of Coronado. Coronado, with an army of four hundred men, had marched from Culiacan, April 22, 1540, to conquer the seven cities of Cibola. In the early part of 1537 Al- varo Nunez Cabaza de Vaca and three compan- ions (the only survivors of six hundred men that Panfilo de Narvaes, ten years before, had landed in Florida for the conquest of that province) after almost incredible sufferings and hardships arrived in Culiacan on the Pacific coast. On their long journey passing from one Indian tribe to another they had seen many wondrous things and had heard of many more. Among others they had been told of seven great cities in a country called Cibola that were rich in gold and silver and precious stones.
A Franciscan friar, Marcos de Niza, having heard their wonderful stories determined to find the seven citics. Securing the service of Estevanico, a negro slave, who was one of Ca- beza de Vaca's party, he set out in quest of the eities. With a number of Indian porters and
Estevanico as a guide, he traveled northward a hundred leagues when he came to a desert that took four days to cross. Beyond this he found natives who told him of people four days further away who had gold in abundance. He sent the negro to investigate and that individual sent back word that Cibola was yet thirty days' journey to the northward. Following the trail of his guide, Niza travelled for two weeks cross- ing several deserts. The stories of the magnifi- cence of the seven cities increased with every tribe of Indians through whose country he passed. At length, when almost to the prom- ised land, a messenger brought the sad tidings that Estevanico had been put to death with all of his companions but two by the inhabitants of Cibola. To go forward meant death to the monk and all his party, but before turning back he climbed a high mountain and looked down upon the seven eities with their high houses and teeming populations thronging their streets. Then he returned to Culiacan to tell his wonder- ful stories. His tales fired the ambition and stimulated the avarice of a horde of adventurers. At the head of four hundred of these Coronado penetrated the wilds of Pimeria (now Arizona). He found seven Indian towns but no lofty houses, no great cities, no gold or silver. Cibola was a myth. Hearing of a country called Quivira far to the north, richer than Cibola, with part of . his force he set out to find it. In his search he penetrated inland as far as the plains of Kansas, but Quivira proved to be as poor as Cibola, and Coronado returned disgusted. The Friar de Niza had evidently drawn on his imagination which seemed to be quite rich in cities.
Alarcon reached the head of the Gulf of Cal- ifornia. Seeing what he supposed to be an in- let, but the water proving too shallow for his ships to enter it, he manned two boats and found his supposed inlet to be the mouth of a great river. He named it Buena Guia (Good Guide) now the Colorado. He sailed up it some distance and was probably the first white man to set foot upon the soil of Upper California. He heard of Coronado in the interior but was unable to establish communication with him. He de- scended the river in his boats, embarked on his vessels and returned to Mexico. The Viceroy
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL RECORD.
Mendoza, who had fitted out the expedition of Alarcon, was bitterly disappointed on the re- turn of that explorer. He had hoped to find the ships loaded with the spoils of the seven cities.
The report of the discovery of a great river did not interest his sordid soul. Alarcon found him- self a disgraced man. Ile retired to private life and not long after died a broken hearted man.
CHAPTER II. ALTA OR NUEVA CALIFORNIA.
W HILE Coronado was still wandering in the interior of the continent search- ing for Quivira and its king, Tatar- rax, who wore a long beard, adored a gol- den cross and worshipped an image of the queen of heaven, Pedro de Alvarado, one of Cortés' former lieutenants, arrived from Guate- mala, of which country he was governor, with a fleet of twelve ships. These were anchored in the harbor of Navidad. Mendoza, the viceroy, had been intriguing with Alvarado against Cortés; obtaining an interest in the fleet, he and Alvarado began preparations for an ex- tensive scheme of exploration and conquest. Be- fore they had perfected their plans an insurrec- tion broke out among the Indians of Jalisco, and Pedro de Alvarado in attempting to quell it was killed. Mendoza fell heir to the fleet. The return of Coronado about this time dispelled the popular beliefs in Cibola and Quivira and put an end to further explorations of the inland re- gions ol the northwest.
It became necessary for Mendoza to find something for his fleet to do. The Islas de Poiniente, or Isles of the Setting Sun (now the Philippines), had been discovered by Magellan. To these Mendoza dispatched five ships of the fleet under command of Lopez de Villalobos to establish trade with the natives. Two ships of the fleet, the San Salvador and the Vitoria, were placed under the command of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, reputed to be a Portuguese by birth and dispatched to explore the northwest coast of the Pacific. Cabrillo sailed from Navidad, June 27, 1542. Rounding the southern extremity of the peninsula of Lower California, he sailed up its onter coast. August 20 he reached Cabo del Engano, the most northerly point of Ulloa's ex- ploration. On the 28th of September, 1542, he
entered a bay which he named San Miguel (now San Diego), where he found "a land locked and very good harbor." He remained in this harbor until October 3. Continuing his voyage he sailed along the coast eighteen leagues, discovering two islands about seven leagues from the main land. These he named San Salvador and Vitoria after his ships (now Santa Catalina and San Clemente). On the 8th of October he crossed the channel between the islands and main land and anchored in a bay which he named Bahia de los Fumos y Fuegos, the Bay of Smokes and Fires (now known as the Bay of San Pedro). Heavy clouds of smoke hung over the head- lands of the coast; and inland, fierce fires were raging. The Indians either through accident or design had set fire to the long dry grass that covered the plains at this season of the year.
After sailing six leagues further up the coast he anchored in a large ensenada or bight, now the Bay of Santa Monica. It is uncertain whether he landed at either place. The next day he sailed eight leagues to an Indian town which he named the Pueblo de las Canoas (the town of Canoes). This town was located on or near the present site of San Buenaventura. Sailing northwestward he passed through the Santa Barbara Channel. discovering the islands of Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa and San Miguel. Continuing up the coast he passed a long nar- row point of land extending into the sea, which from its resemblance to a galley boat he named Cabo de la Galera, the Cape of the Galley (now called Point Concepcion). Baffled by head winds, the explorers slowly beat their way up the coast. On the 17th of November, they cast anchor in a large bay which they named Bahia de los Pinos, the Bay of Pines (now the Bay of Monterey). Finding it impossible to land on
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL RECORD.
account of the fieavy sea Cabrillo continued his voyage northward. After reaching a point on the coast in 40 degrees north latitude, accord- ing to his reckoning, the increasing cold and the storms becoming more frequent, he turned back and ran down the coast to the island of San Miguel, which he reached November 23. Here he decided to winter.
While on the island in October, he had broken his arm by a fall. Suffering from his broken arm he had continued in command. Exposure and unskilful surgery caused his death. He die January 3, 1543, and was buried on the island. His last resting place is supposed to be on the shore of Cuyler's harbor, on the- island of San Miguel. No trace of his grave has ever been found. His companions named the island Juan Rodriguez, but he has been robbed of even this slight tribute to his mem- ory. It would be a slight token of regard if the state would name the island Cabrillo. Saint Miguel has been well remembered in California and could spare an island.
Cabrillo on his death bed urged his successor in command, the pilot Bartolome Ferrolo, to continue the exploration. Ferrolo prosecuted the voyage of discovery with a courage and dar- ing equal to that of Cabrillo. About the middle of February he left the harbor where he had spent most of the winter and after having made a short voyage in search of more islands he sailed up the coast. February 28, he discovered a cape which he named Mendocino in honor of the viceroy, a name it still bears. Passing the cape he encountered a fierce storm which drove him violently to the northeast, greatly endanger- ing his ships. On March Ist, the fog partially lifting, he discovered a cape which he named Blanco, in the southern part of what is now the state of Oregon. The weather continuing stormy and the cold increasing as he sailed northward, Ferrolo reluctantly turned back. Running down the coast he reached the island of San Clemente. There in a storm the ships parted company and Ferrolo, after a search, gave up the Vitoria as lost. The ships, however, came together at Cerros island and from there, in sore distress for provisions, the explorers reached Navidad April 18, 1543. On the discov-
eries made by Cabrillo and Ferrolo the Span- iards claimed the territory on the Pacific coast of North America up to the forty-second degree of north latitude, a claim that they maintained for three hundred years.
The next navigator who visited California was Francis Drake, an Englishman. He was not seeking new lands, but a way to escape the vengeance of the Spaniards. Francis Drake. the "Sea King of Devon," was one of the brav- est men that ever lived. Early in his maritime life he had suffered from the cruelty and injus- tice of the Spaniards. Throughout his subse- quent career, which reads more like romance than reality, he let no opportunity slip to pun- ish his old-time enemies. It mattered little to Drake whether his country was at peace or war with Spain; he considered a Spanish ship or a Spanish town his legitimate prey. On one of his predatory expeditions he captured a Spanish town on the isthmus of Panama named El Nom- bre de Dios, The Name of God. Its holy name did not protect it from Drake's rapacity. While on the isthmus he obtained information of the Spanish settlements of the South Pacific and from a high point of land saw the South sea, as the Pacific ocean was then called. On his re- turn to England he announced his intention of fitting out a privateering expedition against the Spaniards of the South Pacific. Although Spain and England were at peace, he received encour- agement from the nobility, even Queen Eliza- beth herself secretly contributing a thousand crown towards the venture.
Drake sailed out of Plymouth harbor, Eng- land, December 13, 1577. in command of a fleet of five small vessels, bound for the Pacific coast of South America. Some of his vessels were lost at sea and others turned back, until when he emerged from the Straits of Magellan he had but one left, the Pelican. Ile changed its name to the Golden Ilind. It was a ship of only one hundred tons' burden. Sailing up the South Pacific coast, he spread terror and devastation among the Spanish settlements, robbing towns and capturing ships until, in the quaint language of a chronicler of the expedition, he "had loaded his vessel with a fabulous amount of fine wares of Asia, precious stones. church ornaments,
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL RECORD.
gold plate and so mooch silver as did ballas the Goulden Hinde."
From one treasure ship, the Caca Fuego, he obtained thirteen chests of silver, eighty pounds weight of gold, twenty-six tons of uncoined- sil- ver, two silver drinking vessels, precious stones and a quantity of jewels; the total value of his prize amounted to three hundred and sixty thousand pesos (dollars). Having spoiled the Spaniards of treasure amounting to "eight hun- dred sixty-six thousand pesos of silver a hundred thousand pesos of gold and other things of great worth, he thought it not good to return by the streight (Magellan) * * least the Spaniards should there waite and attend for him in great numbers and strength, whose hands, he being left but one ship, he could not possibly escape."
Surfeited with spoils and his ship loaded with plunder, it becanie necessary for him to find the shortest and safest route home. To return by the way he came was to invite certain destruc- tion to his ship and death to all on board. At an island off the coast of Nicaragua he over- hauled and refitted his ship. He determined to seek the Straits of Anian that were believed to connect the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Strik- ing boldly out on an unknown sea, he sailed more than a thousand leagues northward. En- countering contrary winds and the cold in- creasing as he advanced, he gave up his search for the mythical straits, and, turning, he ran down the northwest coast of North America to latitude 38°, where "hee found a harborrow for his ship." He anchored in it June 17, 1579. This "convenient and fit harborrow" is under the lee of Point Reyes and is now known as Sir Francis Drake's Bay.
Fletcher, the chronicler of Drake's voyage, in his narrative, "The World Encompassed," says: "The 3rd day following, viz., the 21st, our ship liaving received a leake at sea was brought to anchor neerer the shoare that her goods being landed she might be repaired; but for that we were to prevent any danger that might chance against our safety our Generall first of all landed his men with necessary provision to build tents and make a fort for defense of ourselves and goods; and that we might under the shel-
ter of it with more safety (whatsoever should befall) end our business."
The ship was drawn upon the beach, careened on its side, caulked and rcfitted. While the crew were repairing the ship the natives visited them in great numbers. From some of their ac- tions Drake inferred that they regarded himself and his men as gods. To disabuse them of this idea, Drake ordered his chaplain, Fletcher, to perform divine service according to the English Church Ritual and preach a sermon. The In- dians were greatly delighted with the psalm singing, but their opinion of Fletcher's sermon is not known.
From certain ceremonial performance Drake imagined that the Indians were offering him the sovereignty of their land and themselves as sub- jects of the English crown. Drake gladly ac- cepted their proffered allegiance and formally took possession of the country in the name of the English sovereign, Queen Elizabeth. He named it New Albion, "for two causes: the one in respect of the white bankes and cliffes which ly towardes the sea: and the other because it might have sonie affinitie with our own country in name which sometimes was so called."
Having completed the repairs to his ship, Drake made ready to depart, but before leav- ing "Our Generall with his company made a journey up into the land. The inland we found to be farre different from the shoare; a goodly country and fruitful soyle, stored with many blessings fit for the use of man; infinite was the company of very large and fat deere which there we saw by thousands as we supposed in a heard."# They saw great numbers of small bur- rowing animals, which they called conies, but which were probably ground squirrels. Before departing, Drake set up a monument to show that he had taken possession of the country. To a large post firmly set in the ground he nailed a brass plate on which was engraved the name of the English Queen, the date of his arrival and the statement that the king and people of the coun- try had voluntarily become vassals of the Eng- lish crown; a new sixpence was fastened to the plate to show the Queen's likeness.
"World Encompassed.
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL RECORD.
After a stay of thirty-six days, Drake took his departure, much to the regret of the Indians. He stopped at the Farallones islands for a short time to lay in a supply of seal meat; then he sailed for England by the way of the Cape of Good Hope. After encountering many perils, he arrived safely at Plymouth, the port fron which he sailed nearly three years before, hav- ing "encompassed" or circumnavigated the globe. His exploits and the booty he brought back made him the most famous naval hero of his time. He was knighted by Queen Elizabeth and accorded extraordinary honors by the na- tion. He believed himself to be the first dis- coverer of the country he called New Albion. "The Spaniards never had any dealings or so much as set foote in this country; the utmost of their discoveries reaching only to many de- grees southward of this place."# The English founded no claim on Drake's discoveries. The land hunger that characterizes that nation now had not then been developed.
Fifty years passed after Cabrillo's visit to Cal- ifornia before another attempt was made by the Spaniards to explore her coast. Through all these years on their return voyage far out be- yond the islands the Manila gallcons, freighted with the wealth of "Ormus and Ind," sailed down the coast of Las Californias from Cape Mendocino to Acapulco. Often storm-tossed and always scourged with that dread malady of the sea, the scurvy, there was no harbor of ref- uge for them to put into because his most Cath- olic Majesty, the King of Spain, had no money to spend in exploring an unknown coast where there was no return to be expected except per- haps the saving of a few sailors' lives.
In 1593, the question of a survey of the Cali- fornia coast for harbors to accommodate the in- creasing Philippine trade was agitated and Don Luis de Velasco, viceroy of New Spain, in a let- ter dated at Mexico, April 8, 1593, thus writes to his majesty: "In order to make the exploration or demarcation of the harbors of this main as far as the Philippine islands, as your majesty orders, money is lacking, and if it be not taken from the royal strong box it cannot be supplied,
as for some time past a great deal of money has been owing to the royal treasury on account of fines forfeited to it, legal cost and the like." Don Luis fortunately discovers a way to save the contents of the royal strong box and hastens to acquaint his majesty with his plan. In a let- ter written to the king from the City of Mexico, April 6, 1594, he says: "I ordered the navigator who at present sails in the flag ship, who is named Sebastian Rodriguez Cermeño, and who is a man of experience in his calling, one who can be depended upon and who has means of his own, although he is a Portuguese, there being no Spaniards of his profession whose serv- ices are available, that he should make the ex- ploration and demarcation, and I offered, if he would do this, to give him his remuneration in the way of taking on board merchandise; and I wrote to the governor (of the Philippines) that he should allow him to put on board the ship some tons of cloth that he might have the benefit of the freight-money." The result of Don Luis's economy and the outcome of at- tempting to explore an unknown coast in a heavily laden merchant ship are given in a para- graph taken from a letter written by a royal offi- cer from Acapulco, February 1, 1596, to the viceroy Conde de Monterey, the successor of Velasco: "On Wednesday, the 31st of January of this year, there entered this harbor a vessel of the kind called in the Philippines a viroco. having on board Juan de Morgana, navigating officer, four Spanish sailors, five Indians and a negro, who brought tidings that the ship San Agustin, of the exploring expedition, had been lost on a coast where she struck and went to pieces, and that a barefooted friar and another person of those on board had been drowned and that the seventy men or more who embarked in this small vessel only these came in her, be- cause the captain of said ship, Sebastian Rodri- guez Cermeño, and the others went ashore at the port of Navidad, and, as they understand, have already arrived in that city (Mexico). An account of the voyage and of the loss of the ship, together with the statement made under oath by said navigating officer, Juan de Mor- gana, accompany this. We visited officially the vessel, finding no kind of merchandise on board,
*The World Encompassed.
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL RECORD.
and that the men were almost naked. The ves- sel being so small it seems miraculous that she should have reached this country with so many people on board." A viroco was a small vessel without a deck, having one or two square sails, and propelled by sweeps. Its hull was formed from a single tree, hollowed out and having the sides built up with planks. The San Agustin was wrecked in what is now called Franeis Drake's Bay, about thirty miles north of San Francisco. To make a voyage from there to Acapulco in such a vessel, with seventy men on board, and live to tell the tale, was an exploit that exceeded the most hazardous undertakings of the Argonauts of '49.
The viceroy, Conde de Monte Rey, in a let- ter dated at Mexico, April 19, 1596, gives the king tidings of the loss of the San Agustin. He writes: "Touching the loss of the ship, San Agustin, which was on its way from the islands of the west (the Philippines) for the purpose of making the exploration of the coast of the South Sea, in accordance with your Majesty's orders to Viceroy, Don Luis de Velasco, I wrote to Your Majesty by the second packet (mailship) what I send as duplicate with this." He then goes on to tell how he had examined the offi- cers in regard to the loss of the vessel and that they tried to ineulpate one another. The navi- gating officer even in the viroco tried to ex- plore the principal bays which they crossed, but on account of the hunger and illness they expe- rieneed he was compelled to hasten the voyage. The viceroy coneludes: "Thus I take it, as to this exploration the intention of Your Majesty has not been carried into effect. It is the gen- eral opinion that this enterprise should not be attempted on the return voyage from the islands and with a laden ship, but from this coast and by constantly following along it." The above account of the loss of the San Agustin is taken from Volume II, Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California, and is the only correet account published. In September, 1595, just before the viceroy, Don Luis de Velasco, was superseded by Conde de Monte Rey, he entered into a contraet with certain parties of whom Sebastian Viscaino, a ship captain, was the principal, to make an expedition up the Gulf
of California "for the purpose of fishing for pearls." There was also a provision in the con- tract empowering Visca:no to make explorations and take possession of his discoveries for the crown of Spain. The Conde de Monte Rey seems, from a letter written to the King, to have seriously doubted whether Viscaino was the right man for so important an expedition, but finally allowed him to depart. In September, 1596, Viscaino sailed up the gulf with a fleet of three vessels, the flag ship San Francisco, the San José and á Lancha. The flag ship was dis- abled and left at La Paz. With the other two vessels he sailed up the gulf to latitude 29°. He encountered severe storms. At some island he had trouble with the Indians and killed several. As the long boat was departing an Indian wounded one of the rowers with an arrow. The sailor dropped his oar, the boat careened and upset, Irowning twenty of the twenty-six sol- diers and sailors in it.
Viseaino returned without having procured any pearls or made any important discoveries. He proposed to continue his explorations of the Californias, but on account of his misfortunes lis request was held in abeyance. He wrote a letter to the king in 1597, setting forth what supplies he required for the voyage. His in- ventory of the items needed is interesting, but altogether too long for insertion here. Among the items were "$35,000 in money"; "eighty ar- robas of powder": "twenty quintals of lead"; "four pipes of wine for mass and. siek friars"; "vestments for the clergy and $2,000 to be in- vested in trifles for the Indians for the purpose of attracting then peaceably to receive the holy gospel." Viscaino's request was not granted at that time. The viceroy and the royal audiencia at one time ordered his commission revoked. Philip II died in 1598 and was succeeded by Philip III. After five years' waiting, Viscaino was allowed to proceed with his explorations. From Acapulco on the 5th of May, 1602, he writes to the king that he is ready to sail with his ships "for the discovery of harbors and bays of the coast of the South Sea as far as Cape Mendocino." "I report," he says, "merely that the said Viceroy (Conde de Monterey) has en- trusted to me the accomplishment of the same
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