USA > California > Alameda County > Past and present of Alameda County, California, Volume I > Part 58
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A system of boulevards between the east bay shore district and Livermore valley is being developed. Soon this beautiful valley will have one of the most attractive and picturesque scenic boulevards in the world; it is called the tri- angle trip, because it leaves Oakland in one direction and returns from another after traversing the sides of a triangle. A side trip is planned to San Jose. Livermore valley is noted at this day for its hay, barley, hops, grapes, wines, sugar beets, blooded stock, poultry, pure water, delightful climate and beautiful scenery. In the valley are Livermore, Pleasanton, Altamont, Sunol, Dougherty, Dublin, Santa Rita, and a few other small villages.
Pleasanton in early times was called Alisal (Cottonwood) and was located on part of the grant to Antonio Sunol, Antonio Maria Pico Augustin Bernal and Juan P. Bernal in 1839. In 1850 Augustin Bernal built a residence at the foot of the mountains about a mile west of the town. In August, 1851, John W. Kot- tinger, an Austrian, arrived, erected a house on the creek and began stock-rais- ing. In September, 1852, Juan P. Bernal erected an adobe house across the creek from Kottinger's residence. Duerr and Ausbaumer in 1857 opened a store in Kottinger's residence and two years later Charles Garthwaite started a store opposite the residence of Augustin Bernal, continuing four years. Before 1867 it was one of the wildest towns in the state. It was here that Harry Morse, sheriff, had his famous battle with Narcisco Borjorques. In 1863 Mr. Kottinger laid out a few lots at Alisal, offered them for sale and among the purchasers were Jacob Teeters, a blacksmith; William Wittner, a carpenter; and Doctor Goucher, all three of whom at once erected houses. The same year Joshua A. Neal, a pioneer of 1847, who had served several years as majordomo for Robert Livermore, moved to Alisal, married a daughter of Augustin Bernal and thus acquired 500 acres of land upon a portion of which later was laid out the town of Pleasanton. He erected a residence on a hill overlooking the valley. In 1864 a school was opened by a Mr. Powell, teacher. In 1865 Mr. Kottinger
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erected a large building in which he opened a general store and a hotel or tavern. The latter was leased to Anton Bardellini who opened a house of entertainment in 1867. In this year Mr. Kottinger had a survey made of the land and lots and laid out a town which he named Pleasanton in honor of General Pleasanton, a gallant cavalry officer under Gen. John C. Fremont in the Missouri campaign of the Civil war. In 1868 Mr. Neal laid out lots adjoining those of Mr. Kot- tinger. Both men-Kottinger and Neal-directed several surveys in 1869 to make their lots conform to the railway track of the Central Pacific Company then built through the valley. The old county road became Main street. The town grew rapidly in 1869-70, owing to the presence of the railroad and the establishment of a station there. Among the most important of the early build- ings were a two-story schoolhouse, a frame church, a two-story frame building by the Odd Fellows, and the Bilz carriage and wagon factory. Snipe and duck shooting on the adjoining bolsa near Pleasanton was a sport greatly enjoyed by hunters. In the '5os Mr. Kottinger began to make wine and by 1870 had a fine old stock on hand. In 1874 the water works were finished by Mr. Neal.
By 1876 Pleasanton was growing rapidly and was shipping by rail large quantities of hay, wheat, barley and horses. A large hotel was opened by H. Detjens in 1875. The Selbach mineral springs containing iron, sulphur and magnesia were extensively patronized at this date. Lots in Pleasanton were sold 1875 by Mrs. McLaughlin for from $295 to $520 each. Five lots on Rail- road street-all vacant property-sold for $1,600. Coal discoveries were made near town. Early in the '70s Augustin Bernal built a fine mile race track near the town and a little later a Jockey Club was organized nearly all of the local stockmen becoming members. In 1875 in a running race between Bernal's bay horse and Alviso's bay mare, the former won by five lengths; much money changed hands on the result.
By 1885 the blooded horses and the race track at Pleasanton were known to horsemen all over the United States. Indian Town was near Pleasanton. In early times floods in the Arroyos Mocho and Valle overflowed the cleared and cultivated sections of the bolsa and cansed much damage, but did not continue long. The bolsa soil was adapted to berries of all kinds and immense quantities were raised in the '8os. In 1884, 1,200 acres of hay were grown on the Baker ranch. The tract was irrigated three times and yielded about two thousand tons worth about thirty thousand dollars. Immense quantities of wheat were raised near the town. On one occasion 14,375 pounds of wheat came to town on one wagon drawn by seven horses. Indians on the Crow ranch raised seventy bushels of corn to the acre. In 1885 J. B. Sportono made 6,000 gallons of wine from berries. Land near town sold for $150 an acre. Large quantities of apples were grown in the '8os. Immense quantities of baled hay were shipped. In 1884 George True sold 158 acres for $10,500. Grape culture made the land very valuable. A forestry station was located in Livermore valley in 1888 011 the Mountain View tract. During the month of September, 1888, 4,000 tons of hay and 2,500 tons of grain were shipped from Pleasanton. The Star was the local newspaper at this time. Though dry, this year was the most prosperous ever known at Pleasanton up to date. More hay, grain, fruit, spuds and vege- tables were sent than ever before; also many new buildings were erected and more genuine progress was made than during the previous ten years, said the
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Star. The Santa Rita rancho was cut into small tracts and sold at this time. Mr. Hatch paid $300 per acre for one hundred and twenty acres of this ranch; he planted a large almond orchard.
In November, 1885, the races near Pleasanton attracted large crowds, but the trotting speed did not go below three minutes. Count Valensin secured 140 acres of the Santa Rita ranch, converted the track into a stock farm and built a race track. In 1889 an overflowing artesian well was dug by Mr. Kottinger and abundant water was found at the depth of sixty-four feet. In 1890 the citi- zens subscribed $1,350 towards developing the artesian wells and erecting wind- mills on Tassajara road. In 1891 a stallion bred in this vicinity by J. C. Simpson was sold at Lexington, Kentucky, for $55,000. At this time fine studs were owned by Giulio Valensin, Senator George Hearst, H. Wilmeek, Gilbert Tomp- kins and J. C. Simpson. Natural gas was struck in a well in Odd Fellows ceme- tery. Druid Hall Association was organized in 1891. In 1894 the remainder of Santa Rita ranch was offered for sale by Laymance & Co., of Oakland. In May, 1894, on the vote to incorporate Pleasanton the result stood-for incorpora- tion 123, against incorporation 46. The village was duly made a town, the first board of trustees being H. P. Chadbourne, William H. Martin, William Napier, John B. Hortenstine and Joseph Nevis. The petition for incorporation stated that within the proposed town boundaries were over 500 inhabitants. In 1895 Pleasanton shipped to the sugar mill at Alvarado 8,506 tons of sugar beets against 10,074 tons in 1894.
The famous valleys in the eastern part of the county are known as Liver- more, Amador, Sunol, Alamo, Vallecitos and parts of San Ramon and Tassa- jara, Livermore being the largest. In 1890 Senator George Hearst bought 440 acres on Laguna creek a mile and a half below town and converted the tract into a blooded horse breeding farm. The old Hearst homestead known as Hacienda del Poso da Verona, is still one of the most beautiful in the county. From this home have come the liberal benefactions of Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, mother of William Randolph Hearst.
In 1897, Dr. W. H. Cope discovered a fine flow of artesian water within about half a mile of the center of Pleasanton. The town trustees promptly secured three acres of land which embraced the well and found upon examination that the well had a flow of 42,000 gallons every twenty-four hours. A 50,000-gallon reservoir was at once built to catch the overflow and a pumping plant was installed to force the water 128 feet to the top of the hill where a 200,000-gallon reservoir was constructed, giving the town a hydrant pressure of 60 pounds. It was so arranged that the hydrant pressure could be increased to 90 pounds. Soon plans were perfected to double the reservoir capacity.
In March, 1898, the old Farmers Hotel at Pleasanton was destroyed by fire; it was about thirty-five years old and had been kept many years by Henry Reimer. In August, 1899, Pleasanton voted on the question of issuing $15,000 in bonds to develop the water supply. As yet the town had no water works, but had depended wholly on wells. Now a change was demanded.
The celebration of the Fourth of July, 1900, at Pleasanton was highly credit- able to the town. Thousands from surrounding towns were present. Livermore joined in the celebration and assisted in making it enjoyable and successful. Perhaps it should be set down as a joint celebration of the two towns so unitedly
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and harmoniously did they work for the pleasure of the crowd and the glorifica- tion of the day. The principal oration was delivered by W. H. Donahue. There were parades, music, games, fancy riding and beautifully decorated buildings. The county board appropriated $200 towards this celebration.
At the present time Pleasanton is a prosperous center of industry with a population of about one thousand five hundred. It has excellent public schools, churches, lodges, clubs and benevolent and social organizations. It is famed for its hops, hay, sugar beets, brick, and winter racing track. It has two hotels, three stores and is a great grain center. Its Chamber of Commerce is doing good work. The fair held at Pleasanton in 1912 was the best ever given by the association. There are two incorporated towns in the valley-Pleasanton and Livermore.
Sunol village and Sunol valley, were named for the Spanish family which, with others, secured the vast grant of land in that vicinity before the American settlement. The first store was opened there by George Foscolini about the year of 1860. Two years later the Argenti Hotel was opened by a Frenchman named Bertrand. In 1865 a school was taught by Mrs. Samuel Brown. In the early '70s coal and gold were found near Sunol. J. A. Johnson became a large land owner here in the early '8os; he bought 1,400 acres of T. J. Batchelder and Charles Hodsell. In October, 1884, A. Bozzi and his wife were murdered in their hotel-Cosmopolitan-by Giuseppe Argenti; he claimed self defense. The Vallecitos schoolhouse was conducted here in the Scott store building, but in 1885 the Sunol Glen school district was established. The Batchelder canyon at Sunol was greatly improved in 1885 : people just began to realize what beautiful residence sites were there. Schools, churches, stores, shops, etc., came rapidly. Olive orchards thrived in this splendid climate. Mr. Batchelder built a large hotel at this time. Many camping parties came here seeking health and recrea- tion. The Grand Army of the Republic camps came here in 1886. Speculators endeavored to secure the prized camping and residence sites. The glen was free from fog and frost and the vine, fig and olive flourished. As a summer resort the Glen was unsurpassed. There were fine bathing and an abundance of fish, and the woods and creek were alive with game. The Methodists and Congre- gationalists had congregations. In recent years the town has lost none of its beauties and other attractions.
Dougherty and Dublin are two small villages in the northern part of Pleas- anton township. The former has two hotels, two stores, shops, schools, churches, etc. The first schoolhouse in the county over which the flag was formally raised was at Dublin in 1869. The Murray school was the first in the eastern part of the county. It was taught by Charles Crane, brother of Judge A. M. Crane, in the old Alviso adobe building in 1854. J. W. Dougherty, after whom the station was named, was very prominent in early times: he imported Clydes- dale horses from Scotland. Dublin and Dougherty are surrounded with fine ranches. It was at Dublin that Don Jose Maria Amador built his adobe resi- dence long before the American settlement. From him Mr. Dougherty obtained immense tracts of land. Here it was also that Michael Murray after whom the township was named pitched his tent. John Green opened a store in 1860 on the site of the Amador valley hotel and here the stages changed horses. Marsh's Hotel was opened the same year. The Catholics built their church in 1859.
LIVERMORE SANITARIUM
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Other villages in the eastern part of the county are Midway where Frank Heare built the Zinc House about 1855; Mountain House near which the early bandits made their rendezvous; Altamont which is 749 feet above the sea and was started in 1869 by Edward Hobler. John Campbell, E. Cockerton, Nicholas Shearer, William H. Wright located in that vicinity, Gayle, Greenville, Ulmar, etc.
The towns of Washington township, lying within a comparatively few miles of one another, form what might almost be termed a "Greater Washington Township," or simply "Washington." There are the following leading towns with estimated population including the suburbs : Niles, 1,500; Centerville, 1,425; Newark, 1,200; Alvarado, 1,100; Irvington, 1,050; Decoto, 850; Mission San Jose, 800; Warm Springs, 600; total, 8,525. They form almost a single com- munity and are closely related by social and commercial ties. In the early '50s Niles was called Gophertown. In 1862 J. J. Vallejo built the flour mill on Alameda creek-the second in the county. A little village grew and was called Vallejo Mills. Late in the '5os there were a few fences about Niles. The young men rode everywhere on their mustangs. The Niles bridge was built early by the county board.
Niles town site in 1877 was in a triangle of about fourteen acres bounded on two sides by railroads and on the other by the creek. This site was owned mainly by the railroad company and the Spring Valley Water Company. North of the railroad was part of a ranch of 10,000 acres owned by J. T. Clark. Sev- eral fine mineral springs were near the town and a large hotel to utilize the water was contemplated in 1877. The railroad company bought 200 acres of the Clark ranch and had the tract surveyed as a town, but the lots did not sell and the land was leased to A. J. Scott who put it in grain. In July, 1877, the town had two hotels, two blacksmith shops, an express and telegraph office, a large warehouse and gristmill, the latter owned by the Spring Valley Water Company and leased to Mr. Laumeister. The mill was built early by J. J. Vallejo who at one time owned about fifty thousand acres in that vicinity. W. B. King conducted the Depot House. The new Niles was laid out west of the old town and the old name Vallejo Mills fell into disuse. At Niles in recent years are a state bank; Trinity church; Washington Press; Niles Woman's Club; Township Register; three hotels ; several lodges and clubs; fine public schools; the Washington township high school; California nursery; California Pressed Brick Company; Ames Manufacturing Company; California Building Material Company; warehouses; box factories; lumber yards; planing mills ; Citizens' Water Company; two churches; Public Improvement Club; Ladies' Guild, etc. Niles is the center of fruit industry-apricot, cherry, orange, lemon and grapes. Shipments are very large.
Centerville was called Hardscrabble at an early date and was on the old Mission road. A small store was established there in the '50s and by 1870 there was a population of about one hundred and fifty and two stores and a few shops. Among the first residents of that vicinity were Captain Moore, William Moore, Ab. Harris, Joseph Schwitzer, Joseph Mason, Captain Mayhew, Mr. Beard, Doctor Bucknell, Richard Threlfahl, Mr. Breyfogle and others. By 1877 the population was about three hundred and there were three stores. Now there is a population of nearly one thousand, with banks, churches, schools, merchants, lodges, societies. Near are grown large quantities of grain, vege- Vol. I -20
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tables and fruit. In 1906 fire nearly destroyed the town, the total loss being about fifty thousand dollars.
Newark is a prosperous town of recent development, though its first set- tlers were among the first in this part of the county. It has now a population of about one thousand and two hundred. It became prominent because of its location at a point where the narrow-gauge railroad established its division ter- minal, connecting with boats on the bay. Car works, stove foundries and other enterprises were located there. The discontinuance of the ferry service hurt the town, but the construction of the bridge across the bay retrieved the damage. Now whole trains of cars are delivered in San Francisco by means of the bridge. The result is that hundreds of families have located at this point. Near are the salt works. Dairying is an important industry here. Schools, churches, mercan- tile houses, shops and other features are now prominent.
Alvarado was the first county seat, but did not long retain the distinction. The removal occurred in 1854-55, the first county vote being as follows: Ala- meda 232, Alvarado 614, San Leandro 782, Oakland 18, San Lorenzo 220, Hay- ward 15. There being no decision at this election another was held with this result-San Leandro, 1,301, Alvarado 1,067. Previous to 1854 Alvarado was the leading town of the county, with schools, churches, stores and factories. E. A. Richmond was postmaster early. Union City and Alvarado practically merged into one town. Alvarado was first called New Haven, but was changed to the former in honor of General Alvarado. Dog Corners was a small settle- ment half way between Centerville and Irving. Mormon Town was in the hills east of the valley. Irving was called Niggar Corners. Red Horner built a hotel at Union City in 1853. It was a wild place then. A new comer was given his choice of four things to do, as follows: Drink, smoke, gamble or leave. Nearly all gambled, and it was a common sight to see the eight sided $50 gold pieces on the tables. In later times Alvarado became famous as the site of the beet sugar factory and as the center of the artesian water supply. In July, 1877, Alvarado contained a population of about four hundred. It was a prosperous town before Oakland amounted to much. On a point of Alameda creek large numbers of Spanish cattle were then slaughtered for their hides and tallow which were car- ried to San Francisco by whale boats. This was one of the items which first marked Alvarado as a growing town. At that time there was deep water in the creek and schooners of from fifty to one hundred tons burden plied from this place to other bay ports. One building there was made in Maine, brought here by vessel and erected in 1850. The old courthouse was long a landmark. It was a frame structure, the lower story used as a store and the upper for county business. At first the schooners which came here did all the freighting for the producers of the whole Livermore valley, but ere long other bay ports took much of this trade. In 1855 when the courthouse was removed to San Leandro, much of the business left Alvarado. The J. M. Horner gristmill was said to have cost $120,000, but it did not pay and was removed to Livermore. The town ceased to grow, a few fires destroyed several of the best establishments, the earth- quake of 1868 ruined a large wagon and blacksmith shop, and the town for sev- eral years was quiet and despondent. But in 1877 Alvarado showed signs of a renewal of business activity and growth. W. M. Liston's hotel began to fill up. At this time Mr. Liston was about everything in the town-road-master, notary,
RESIDENCE OF ISRAEL HORTON, LIVERMORE
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mail carrier and in reality postmaster. In 1889 Alvarado had a promising outlook as a manufacturing center. The sugar factory employed about two hundred per- sons and near by grew 1,200 acres of beets for its use. A large lime kiln was being constructed. The stove factory employed thirty-five men; it used the build- ing which was constructed in 1852 and was the flour mill of J. M. and W. Y. Horner, but which passed to C. J. Stevens, and finally in 1870 to the stove com- pany. When the mill was built the carpenters who worked thereon were paid $16 per day. Near the stove factory were the chemical works, glue being one of the principal products. General Houston was connected with this industry. At the present time the combined towns have a population of about one thousand one hundred. The leading features are the beet sugar factory, salt works, the water supply system, Bank of Alvarado, three stores, two or three churches, a big grammar school building and numerous shops.
Irvington, which has a population of over one thousand, was known early as Washington Corners. The railroad station was at first at Washington, but in 1884 was changed to Irvington. The name of the town and postoffice was Irving. The establishment of Washington College was a result of the efforts of the San Jose Mission Land Company to distribute and improve a large tract of land for the benefit of its shareholders and to endow two colleges, one for the males at San Jose and one for the females here. Sebert Lyser established a small news- paper in 1875. At this time the Alameda Independent was issued here. In 1875 Washington College was crowded with students. A fine grammar school building was erected there in 1875 at a cost of $3,500. In recent years the Anderson Academy is a conspicuous educational institution. Near is the Nutwood stock farm. Around are grown large quantities of grapes, fruit, hay, grain and vege- tables. This is the apricot section of the county. The town has a big Odd Fel- lows building, a big wagon and plow factory, etc.
Decoto has a population of about eight hundred and fifty. It has a large brick plant, a large contracting concern and numerous shops, stores, and other business establishments. It has two warehouses, one hotel, etc. The Home for Masonic Widows and Orphans is located here. The corner stone was laid in October, 1896. Jacob Voorsanger was chief orator. An immense crowd was present.
The Mission of San Jose founded in 1797, the first settlement in the county, soon outdistanced its rivals, San Francisco and Santa Clara, both in number of its converts and the extent and variety of its wealth. The Franciscan friars Bar- cinallo and Merlin were in charge of the religious training. The executive gov- ernment resided at the Presidio of San Francisco. A small detachment of sol- diers resided at the mission to keep order and bring in the Indians to be educated. Between the years of 1802 and 1822, 4,573 Indians were baptised, 1,376 married, 2,933 died and there survived at the latter date 1,620. In 1834 the mission had 2,300 converts, 24,000 horned cattle, 1,100 horses and mules, 19,000 sheep, hogs and goats, and there were raised that year 10,000 bushels of wheat and corn. The change came at this time when the Mexican civil authorities took charge of the mission. By 1842 only about four hundred Indians were left and nearly all the wealth of the mission had vanished. In the end Don Jose de Jesus Vallejo, brother of General Vallejo, administered the estate, the first sale taking place in 1846. Among the earliest Americans there were E. F. Beard, H. C. Smith, J. M. Horner, E. Nichols, A. M. Crane, A. M. Church and H. G. Ellsworth. Mr. Beard
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obtained much of the land at Mission San Jose. The village started and grew rapidly. Miners and traders made it their headquarters. Large wagon trains passed through on their way to the mines. Many saloons were started. General stores were kept by Smith, Chamberlain, McClure and Musser. Long oats and mustard gave way to potatoes, wheat, barley and onions. Services were still held at the old Mission church around which grew the noble orchards of grapes, figs, pears, etc. Don Jesus Vallejo occupied a long, low two-story adobe house just opposite the church. But the earthquake of 1868 destroyed the old church; the walls remained and were covered with a shingle roof in place of the former red tile and the auditorium proper which had once rung with the glorias of a thousand chanting Indians was converted into a storeroom for wine and brandy. The old Vallejo residence was converted into a butcher shop. By 1888 the village had two groceries, three hotels, a bakery, a harness shop, two blacksmiths, two butchers and half a dozen saloons. Vallejo street was the main avenue of the town. Juan Gal- legos and C. C. McIver were extensive wine makers. One of the beautiful resi- dences was that of Senor Juan Gallegos, a Costa Rican, whose vineyard covered 500 acres. At Irvington two miles away was the wine cellar of the Gallegos Wine Company-the largest in the state. The McIver residence, vineyard and wine cellar were large and attractive features in 1888. A big fire in July, 1884, destroyed a large part of Mission San Jose. The old mission church had a narrow escape. There being no water the men extinguished the blaze there with claret from the wine cellar, the property of Archbishop Alemany. Among those burnt out were Ehrman & Lebrecht, merchandise ; the A. O. U. W. hall, finest in the county outside of Oakland; Washington hall; Mr. Ehrman's dwelling; Siegrise two dwellings; Mrs. Andrews boarding-house; John Stanley shop; Mr. Brown shop; J. Necall boarding house and saloon ; J. Saunders dwelling and shop; Daniel Baker dwell- ing and livery stable; August Hennar saloon; Charles Steger hotel; Muthwellig Brothers bakery where the fire started. The total loss exceeded $50,000. The village now has a population of about eight hundred.
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