USA > Connecticut > The Connecticut River and the valley of the Connecticut, three hundred and fifty miles from mountain to sea; historical and descriptive > Part 34
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Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36
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Hartford to the Sea
and for entertainment, Rollin, Josephus, and Goldsmith's Greece ; at eight, delving into Milton, Bunyan, and Pope, having already absorbed all of Shakspere; at nine, begin- ning Greek ; before eleven, devouring more history, Gibbon, Robertson, Prescott, and most of Froissart ; in his twelfth year, writing from memory "a chronological table from B. c. 1000 to A. D. 1820, filling a quarto blank book of sixty pages "; by thirteen, taking up mathematics, teaching himself music, and singing in the church choir; at fifteen, beginning German ; at sixteen, keeping his "journal " in Spanish, and reading various other modern languages; at seventeen, beginning Hebrew and dipping into science. With all this amazing reading and study, "averaging twelve hours daily twelve months in the year, before he was six- teen," he was no pedant, but a genuine youth, devoted with ardor to out-door sports and life, taking long walks and rides in the country round about, and boating on the River. He was Edmund Fiske Green till his thirteenth year. His father, Edmund Brewster Green, was a native of Delaware, and his mother, Mary Fiske (Bound) Green,
of Middletown. Edmund Brewster Green had been a student at Wesleyan, class of 1837, and had met Mary Bound in the social life of the town. He became a clever journalist, and at one time was private secretary to Henry Clay. He died young, at thirty-seven, when editing a paper in Panama, in 1852. Edmund Fiske Green became John Fiske, by act of the Legislature, when his mother married Edwin W. Stoughton, the New York lawyer, of the Valley Stoughton family. He took the name of his maternal great-grandfather, John Fiske, a man of force and character in Middletown, for half a century the town clerk.
The home of the poet Brainard, for a little time in
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Connecticut River
Middletown, was also near the water-front. Brainard came to Middletown in 1819 and opened a law office, having reluctantly adopted the profession of his father, Judge Brainard, of New London. He proved an indifferent lawyer, given more to letters than to briefs. Several of his minor poems were written in his clientless office on Main Street. At length he abandoned his profession, when he went up to Hartford to edit the Mirror and engage exclusively in the hazardous literary life.
From Middletown Landing the steamer floats down the River, now sweeping eastward beside the Chatham hills. As the channel narrows below Middletown and takes its wayward course among the shoals, the pilot's skill comes into good play. At times the bow of the boat seems about to pierce the River's bank on one side and the stern to scrape the shore on the other side; but she glides onward with the ease of a canoe. About two miles out from Middletown Landing the romantic pass of " The Straits," where the River cuts boldly through the range of hills, is approached, and its gentle aspect changes to quite a majestic air. In a deep and narrow channel it swiftly flows for a mile's length between rocky banks rising to heights of from four hundred to eight hundred feet.
On the rugged north hills are historic mines, in local- ities yet picturesque. One, near the head of The Straits, was the " Old Lead Mine " worked by foreigners before the Revolution, and then seized by the Connecticut gov- ernment, supplying large quantities of lead for the colony's use through the war. Another, beyond and above the end of The Straits, was the older and more romantic "Gov- ernor's Gold Ring." This was the place of the early investigations of John Winthrop the younger, for mineral
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Wesleyan University-Scott Laboratory of Physics.
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Hartford to the Sea
wealth. Its site is on Great Hill, on The Strait Hills range, in the precincts of Cobalt, a village romantically set, which takes its name from the old cobalt mines of the region, north of Middle Haddam Landing. The " Gov- ernor's Gold Ring" was in the reservation which in 1661 the town of Middletown granted to "our much honoured Governor, Mr. John Winthrop," for the encouragement of his projects for the discovery of mines and minerals, and the setting up of works for their improvement. Here, then a lonely and dangerous wilderness, this intrepid colo- nial scientist used to resort, accompanied only by his ser- vant, often spending three weeks at a time in roasting ores or assaying metals. Although no " finds" of great value rewarded him, the colonists gave the place its glit- tering name from their impression that he had actually obtained gold sufficient at least to be made into rings.
Night falls during the passage of The Straits, and the remainder of the steamboat's voyage is made in darkness. It is enlivened, however, by the play of the steamer's searchlight upon the banks as the several landings are approached. Thus at intervals a series of pleasant land- scapes are thrown up to view as on a canvas. Middle Haddam Landing, in Chatham, appears at the end of the River's long eastward sweep and its turn southward again. Next Rock Landing, in East Haddam, is disclosed in the mellow light. Then East Haddam Landing; and Good- speed's, in Haddam; Hadlyme; Deep River, in Chester ; Hamburgh, in Lyme; Essex Landing; Lyme Landing ; and finally Saybrook Point.
The Haddams have various attractions, scenic and his- torical. Shipbuilding, from the splendid timber grown among the hills, was a brisk industry on their river-fronts during and after the Revolution. East Haddam is espe-
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Connecticut River
cially charming in parts. Salmon River coming down from the highland and here dropping into the Connecticut beautifies the landscape. This tributary was in the old days a rich salmon-fishing place, and so got its name. In East Haddam, Nathan Hale, " the American spy," began his modest career as a schoolmaster a few years before the Revolution, and the little house in which he taught has been preserved by the Sons of the Revolution. In old Haddam the visitor is directed to a number of interesting landmarks. Haddam was the birthplace of David Dudley Field and Stephen Johnson Field, justice of the United States Supreme Court, the elder of the four remarkable Field brothers (Cyrus West Field and the Rev. Henry Martyn Field having been born in Stockbridge, in the Berkshire hills). Their sister, Emelia, who became the wife of an American missionary in Turkey, and the mother of another United States Supreme Court judge, Mr. Justice · Brewer, was also born here. Their father, the Rev. David Dudley Field, distinguished in his walk as minister and town historian, was minister of the first Haddam church for many years. Beginning in 1804 he was twice settled here, before and after his pastorate in Stockbridge. The memory of the family is kept fresh in the town through the gift, by Dr. Field's sons, of the Meeting-house Green and Field Park adjoining the site of the old church where their father preached so long. An earlier minister of the Haddam church was the Rev. Aaron Cleveland (or Cleave- land), great-great-grandfather of ex-President Cleveland. He was the minister from 1739 to 1746. Subsequently he went to Halifax, Nova Scotia, and while there became a Church-of-England man. He obtained Episcopal ordina- tion in England, and returning to America under appoint- ment as a missionary, he began his labors in Delaware.
Wesleyan University-Memorial Chapel.
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Hartford to the Sea
He died in Philadelphia in 1757, at the home of his old friend, Dr. Benjamin Franklin. He was a man of unusual physique, " tall, well proportioned, and powerful." When a student at Harvard he outranked his college mates as the best swimmer, skater, and wrestler.
Other pious sons of Haddam were the brothers Brainard - David and John - eighteenth century missionaries to the Indians. David Brainard was that flame of piety, the ardor of whose labors among the Indians, emulating the work of John Eliot a century before him, burned out his young life in his thirtieth year; and whose journals, pub- lished in 1749 with a memoir by Jonathan Edwards, became a classic of missionary literature. The house where he was born, in 1718, stood back from the River on an eleva- tion commanding a fine prospect ; and near by were the beautiful groves and sweet fields where, when a child, " sober and inclined to melancholy," he wandered alone, and wrestled with his imagined " vileness " for peace with an awful God. He became affianced to Jerusha, the youngest daughter of Jonathan Edwards, but their union was sacrificed to his missionary work. She gave up her life in her care of him through his long lingering illness of consumption, her death occurring scarcely four months after his, in her eighteenth year. He died at Jonathan Edwards's house in Northampton, in October, 1747, and was buried in the old Northampton burying-ground. " Eight of the neighboring ministers, and seventeen other gentlemen of liberal education, and a great concourse of people " attended his funeral, Jonathan Edwards preaching the funeral discourse.
Essex is interesting as an old-time shipbuilding place, where war-ships were built in the Revolution, and where in the War of 1812 the British cornered a number of
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American vessels and destroyed them. Boat-building and sail-making are still carried on here to some extent, but manufacturing long since became the foremost industry. The town was a part of Old Saybrook till the middle of the nineteenth century.
From Saybrook Point the steamer continues her night- voyage out into the Sound and on to New York. The traveller confining his journeyings to the Valley therefore disembarks at this last River landing, and finds shelter for the remainder of the night at a Saybrook inn. The next morning, instead of leaving the Valley at Saybrook Junc- tion, he might well return to Hartford by railroad and depart at that central point for the world at large. Thus he may make a leisurely finishing trip, with " stop-overs " at the pleasant places passed on the down-sail after nightfall.
Thus we have followed the course of the "Beautiful River " of which the poet whose name is most closely asso- ciated with it sings:
From that lone lake, the sweetest of the chain That links the mountain to the mighty main,
Fresh from the rock and swelling by the tree, Rushing to meet and dare and brave the sea - Fair, noble, glorious river ! in thy wave The sunniest slopes and sweetest pastures lave;
The mountain torrent with its wintry roar, Springs from its home and leaps upon thy shore.
It was Dr. Dwight's observation a hundred years ago, that the inhabitants of this Valley then possessed a common character, and in all the different states through which it extends resembled each other more than their fellow citi- zens living on the coast resembled them. This similarity
Saybrook Lighthouse at the River's Mouth.
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Hartford to the Sea
he found to be derived from their descent, their education, their local circumstances, and their mutual interests. " People," he sagely remarked, "who live on a pleasant surface and on a soil fertile and easy of cultivation, usually possess softer dispositions and manners ... than those who from inhabiting rougher grounds acquire rougher minds and coarser habits. Even the beauty of the scenery . . . becomes a source of pride as well as of enjoyment." So it appeared that there was no tract in which learning was more, and more uniformly, encouraged, or where sobriety and decorum were more generally demanded or exhibited. " Steadiness of character, softness of manners, a disposition to read, respect for the laws and magistrates, a strong sense of liberty blended with a strong sense of the indispensable importance of energetic government," were all predominant in this region.
These original traits survive, but not unchanged. The smoothing hand of time has passed over both people and landscape, softening a rugged feature here and there, removing some asperities, replacing with the beauty of cultivation the wilder beauty of nature in the rough ; and yet leaving both to the inhabitants and to the scenery those picturesque qualities which, we hope, will forever be associated with the Valley of the Connecticut.
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MAP OF THE CONNECTICUT RIVER
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Index
A
Abenakis. See Indian tribes. "Abigail," the ship, 29; 30.
Adams, Deacon, Indian captive, 245; John Adams, 407; Samuel Adams, 394; 407; 415.
Agawam, 36; 363; 429. Indian name of Springfield, see Springfield.
Agawam River. See Westfield River. Agawams. See Indian tribes.
Allen, Ethan, 259; 276; 277; 278; 279; 285; 286; Ira Allen, 279; 283; 284; 287; 288; 292; 293; 294; 295; 296. Alsop, Richard, 441.
Altarbaenhoot, or Netawanute, Indian chief, 20; 82.
American built yachts, the earliest, 1; 5.
American democracy, 37; birthplace of, 51.
Amherst, 362; 413; 414; 417; 419.
Amherst College, 244; 352; 417; 419. Amherst, Gen. Jeffrey, 247; 248; 250. Ammonoosuc Rivers, 206; 250; 338; 353; 355; 374.
Amsterdam Trading Company, 9; 10; 11.
Andros, Sir Edmund, 71; 74; 75; 76; 139; 161; 436; the affair of the Con- necticut charter, 440, 443.
Appalachian chain, 346; 347.
Appleton, Maj., 117, 123, 124, 125, 130, 135, 137, 140, 143; Thomas Gold Appleton, 9.
Apsley, Alice, see Fenwick, Lady; Sir Edward Apsley, 73.
"Archipelagos," The, 6.
Arsenal, United States. See Spring- field.
Ashmun family, in Northampton, 409. Ashuelot River, 153; 358.
Atherton, Rev. Hope, 154; 156.
Atkinson, Hodgson, 314, name in Bel- lows Falls, 314; Col. Theodore At- kinson, 225.
· Atlee, Samuel J., 286.
B
Bailey (or Bayley), Gen. Jacob, 284; 379.
Bancroft, George, 34; 70; 116; in Northampton, 409; in Springfield, 429.
Baptiste, Capt., 171; 188. Barlow, Joel, 441.
Barnard family, in Deerfield, 396.
Barnard, Frederick A. P., 442.
Barnet, 250; 315; proposed head of river navigation, 317; surveys for canals from, 320; 321; 322; 333; 334; 337; 354; 378; Scotch settlers of, 378.
Barton River, 348.
Bates family, in Northampton, 409.
Bath, 262; 355; 378.
" Battle of Bloody Brook." See King Philip's War.
Bay Path, The, 35; outlined, 36; 85; 143; 427.
Beaucours, Capt. de, 178.
Beecher, Rev. Henry Ward, 47. Beecher's Falls, 368.
Beers, Capt. Richard, in King Philip's War, 117; 120; 121; fatal march of,
121- 122; grave of, in Northfield, 122, 393.
Beers's Mountain, 122.
Beers's Plain, 122, 393.
465
466
Connecticut River
Belcher, Jonathan, governor of Massa-
chusetts, 206; the "Governor's Farm," Chesterfield, 209.
Bellows Fort, 241.
Bellows, Gen., Benjamin, 225; 241; 242; 270; 293; 389; Rev. Henry W. Bellows, 389.
Bellows Falls, 185; 203; 204; 207; 238; in the Last French War, 240; canal at, 311, 314; 316; 317; 335; 336; 337; 339; 356; the gorge, 356-357, 388.
Bennington, 220; 221; 257; 264; 271; 273; Vermont Assembly at, 274, 283, 294, 297-298, 287.
Bennington Party, The, 257; 258; 264; 268; 274; 276; 277; 278; 283; 285; 287; 290; 292; 294; 295; 298.
Berkeley Divinity School, 453; 455; development of, 456.
Berkshire County, 311; Berkshire Hills, 202: 347; 362; 363.
Bernardstown, 183; first "Falls Fight Township," 207; named for Sir Francis Bernard, 207; 211.
Black River, 206; 246; 348; 356; 387. Blanchard, Joseph, surveyor, 252; Col. Josiah Blanchard, 225; . Thomas Blanchard, river steamboat builder, 336.
"Blessing of the Bay," the ship, 17; 18; 41.
Bliss tavern, Haverhill, 381.
Block, Adriaen, 1; 2; 3; 4; voyage of discovery to and up the Connecti- cut, 6-8; further explanations of, 8-9; 10; 11; 12; 82; 84.
Block Island, 2; first named Luisa, named for Adriaen Block, 8; 84-88; 91; 92; 94.
Block Island Indians, 84; 89; 90; ex- pedition against, 91, 92.
Bloody Brook, 126; 129; 398; Battle of, see King Philip's War.
Bloomfield (first Minehead), 352; 372. Blow-me-down Brook, 387.
Boundary lines between states, Con- necticut north bound, 199-200, 362, 364; Connecticut west bound, 220, 221, 254; Massachusetts north bound, 362, 389; Massachusetts-New Hampshire line, 198, 199, 208, 210, 211; Massachusetts west bound, 220, 221, 254; New Hampshire west- bound, 220, 254, 255, 288, 289, 291, 299; New Hampshire-Canada north line, 348, 349; New Hampshire-Can- ada west line, 351; New Hamp- shire, Vermont, and Canada line, 351; New Hampshire - Vermont line, 277, 279, 282, 299; United States-Canada line, 376; Vermont lines, 279, 291, 294, 296; Vermont- Canada line, 368.
Boynton, Sir Matthew, 67.
Bradford, William, governor of Ply- mouth, 13; 15; 16; 18; 25; 26; 28; 29.
Bradford (first Moretown), 299; 354; 355; 381.
Bradley, Stephen Rowe, 288.
Bradstreet, Simon, 43; 44.
Brainard, John G. C., 441; 442; 457- 458; 462.
Brainard, David, missionary to the Indians, birthplace in Haddam, 461; grave of, in Northampton, 461; his brother John, 461.
Brattle, William, 200; Brattleborough named for, 200.
Brattleborough, 83; 171; 183; 198; 199; 200; 204; 219; conventions at, 285, 290; 286; 321; 335; 341; 348; 357; 358; 388; the modern town, 389-391.
Brewster's, Col., Hanover Inn, 298. Brewster, Jonathan, 24; 25; 26.
Bridges, the first Hartford bridge, 306; 309; first across the river, 357; 377; first in the Massachusetts Reach, 425.
Brodhead, John Romeyne, 11; 62.
467
Index
Brooke, Lord, 20; 68; 69. Brookfield, 85; 114; 116; 135; 146; 158. Brunswick, 353; 373; 374. Bull, Capt. Thomas, 74; 75; 76. Burdette, Charles L., 365. Burr, Aaron, 47; 397; 436. Bushnell, Rev. Horace, 445.
C
Cable, George W., 409; 417.
Cambridge, Massachusetts, colonists for river towns from, 24, 33, 34, 36. Canaan, 351; 352; 368; 371; 372; 373. Canada, 81; 145; 148; 161; captives taken to, 164, 165, 165-166, 177, 180, 213, 227, 245, 241; 167; 171; 181; 185; 189; 193; conquest of, 198, 201, 252, 379; 199; 204; 205; 213; 241; 244; proposed union of Vermont with, 290; projected canals to, 320, 322; 347; 348; 353; 367; 368; 369; 370.
Canal companies, 311; 312; 313; 314; 315; 318; 319; 320; 321; 322; 324. Canals. See Locks and Canals.
Canoeing, 337; 384; 418. See River craft; also, Navigation.
Canonchet, Indian chief, 142; 146; 148; fate of, 151-152; 153; 158. Canonicus, Indian chief, 85; 89. Caughnawagas. See Indian tribes. Chambly, Mons. de, 191. Chambly, 186; 188; 203; 236. Champney, J. Wells, 398. Channing, William Ellery, 397.
Chapin, Deacon Samuel, statue of " The Puritan," 420; Henry and Japhet Chapin, 420; Hannah (Cha- pin) Sheldon, 423. Chapin family in Springfield and Chic- opee, 420; 423.
Chapman, Capt. Robert, 74.
Charlestown, 201; 207; 208; 209; 210; in the Old French War, 212-214; named for Sir Charles Knowles, 218; 219; 223; 225; in the Last French
War, 227-230, 240, 244, 245; 246; 251; 252; conventions at, 291-293; Vermont Assembly at, 295, 296, 297, 298; New Hampshire Assembly at, 299; 311; 339; 386; 387; the modern town, 388.
Charter Oak, the, 72; 440; 442; site of, 443.
Chastellux, Marquis de, 450.
Chatham, 452; war-ships and packets built at, 452; 459.
Chatham hills, 458.
Cheshire County, 291; 295.
Chester, Deep River Landing, 459.
Chesterfield, 208; 209; 210; 295; 358; 388; 390; 391.
Chesterfield Academy, 391.
Chicopee, 161; 363; 419; 420; the modern city, 423.
Chicopee River, 311; 363; 423.
Chittenden, Thomas, governor of Ver- mont, 275; 276; 277; 278; 284; 299. Christiaensen, Hendrich, Dutch navi- gator, 3; 4; 8; 9.
Churchill, Winston, 387.
Clap, Rev. Thomas, president of Yale College, 78.
Claremont 318; 356; 386; 387; 388.
Clarke, David, 433; Martha Pitkin (Wolcott) Clarke, see Pitkin, Martha.
Clarksville, 371; named for Benjamin Clark, 372.
Clark's Island, its legend of Capt. Kidd, 393.
Clemens, Samuel Langhorne, Hartford home of, 446.
Cleveland, Rev. Aaron, 406-461; an- cestor of Grover Cleveland, 460.
Colebrook, 352; 371; named for Sir John Colebrook, 372.
Clinton, De Witt, governor of New York, 321.
Clinton, George, governor of New York, 220; 285; 286; 289. Clyde River, 348.
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Connecticut River
Cobalt, 459.
Cogswell, Dr. Joseph Green, 409.
College Party, The, 257; 258; 259; centered in " Dresden " (Hanover), 260, 262; 266; addresses of, 262- 263, 264, 267, 268, 272; 280-282; the " United Committees," 263, 266, 267, 268, 273, 275, 279; the "Protest- ing Members," 278, 279, 280; the " United Towns," 283, 288; 289; 290; 291; 293; 294; 295; 297; 298; 299; 300; 332.
Cold River, 242; 357.
Colden, Cadwallader, lieut .- governor of New York, 254; 256.
Cole, John, 435; his wife, Anna (Ed- wards) Cole, see Edwards.
Colonial life in the River towns, 163. Columbia (first Cockburn Town, named for Sir James Cockburn), 352; 372; 373.
Concord, Massachusetts, 158; grantees of River townships meeting at, 207. Concord, New Hampshire, 207; 224; 318.
Connecticut charter, 71; 72; 200; 440; 443.
Connecticut Colony, 47, 48-55; 64; 67; 68; 69; 70; charter for, 71, 72; 79; 80; 81; in the Pequot wars, 97-112; in King Philip's War, 113, 136, 139, 151, 158, 161; 199-200; 281; 307; 440; 443.
Connecticut constitution, 49; 50; 51. Connecticut Historical Society, 50; 66; 443; 444.
Connecticut lakes, 346; Fourth Lake, 348-349; Third (or Sophy) Lake, 349; Second Lake, 349, 350; First (or Connecticut) Lake, 349, 350, 351, 358, 367, 368, 369, 371.
Connecticut "Old Patent," 19; 68; 69; 71; 72.
Connecticut Path, the Old, 35.
Connecticut plantations, provisional government for, 45-46; 48.
Connecticut River, Indian name of, Quinnitukqut or Long tidal river, 1; Dutch name of, De Versche, or Freshwater, 1, 6, 16, 22; English name of, Connecticut, 1; called "The Beautiful River," 6; discovery of, and exploration, by Adriaen Block, 6-8; an early colonial high- way, 303-309; opened to navigation by the Dutch, 304; Dutch occupa- tion, 12-13, 56-66; English occupa- tion, 14-23, 24-37; colonial naviga- tion, 303-304; locks and canals, 310- 324; steamboats and steamboating, 325-341; headwaters, 346 (see Con- necticut lakes); course through four states, 347; area of New Hampshire and Vermont drained, 347; tribu- taries from New Hampshire and Vermont, 347, 348, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, entering in Mas- sachusetts, 359, 361, 362, 363, 394, in Connecticut, 364, 365, 366; ter- race system, 351, 352; the " terrace basins" from the headwaters to Long Island Sound, 352-366; chang- es in the river bed, 364-365.
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