USA > Connecticut > Fairfield County > Greenwich > Ye historie of ye town of Greenwich, county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, with genealogical notes on the Adams. > Part 24
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October I. This morning we attended the Presbyterian Church. It is a small house and was not very well filled. . We heard a sermon from the Second of Corinthians, fifth chapter, the verse I do not remember. The words were "through the terror of the Lord, we do persuade you." We had an animated speaker. He was young and engaging in his manner. We attended the same church again in the afternoon and heard the same minister preach from Proverbs, the seventeenth chapter and first verse, "boast not thyself of tomorrow." Hudson has five houses of public worship, Presbyterian, Episcopal, Baptists, Methodists, and Uni- versalists.
October 2. We were ready to start before sunrise and I feel pleased at the idea of bidding Hudson farewell, as it is a dull place. The inhabitants have a great resemblance to the Dutch in manners and appearances. We took a view of the town from the third story, which overlooked those houses around us, and we could see the river for some dis- tance. Now and then a steamboat and sloop passed, all moving very quickly. We could see Athens very plain and the Catskill Mountains were still to be seen. We rode to Kinderhook. The roads here were very rough owing to the late rains. I have observed a fashion in this vicinity, which I never saw before and which induced me to think that the ladies here had all been quarrelling with their ovens for they were turned out of doors and sometimes even across the street. We came in sight of Albany this afternoon. It appears very much like Brooklyn, except it is much larger and is situated on a much higher bank. On entering the town, I was very much disappointed. The dirty narrow streets do not suit my taste. The pavements are broken,
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which make the riding very disagreeable, and to finish off, we came very near being upset by a couple of young Dutch gentlemen. The lower part of the town in particular is unpleasant. The upper part is more regular and pleasant. After we left Albany we saw a number of elegant places, some of the most delightful I ever saw. We soon came along side of the Grand Canal, as it is called. In this sight I was completely disappointed. There was nothing grand about it. It is like a large ditch, as I have heard it called. We saw the Northern Canal too, and rode between them for some distance. We crossed the river at Albany and travelled on the west side. We soon came in sight of Troy. It is on the east side of the river. We had a good view of this vil- lage. It appears neater than Albany. We passed through West Troy where there are a number of beautiful summer seats. We soon came to the junction of the Hudson and Mohawk Rivers, and continued our journey beside the Mohawk. In passing over this river, we saw the falls called the Cohoes. The river was low, but still it was a grand sight to see a sheet of water pouring over a precipice of forty feet. The bridge over the Mohawk is said to be half a mile long and has a closed cover with a few windows and is a gloomy looking place. We arrived at Waterford in the evening.
October 3. Waterford is the "pleasantest" place we have seen. It is small, but neat. The houses appear new and well finished. It is situated on a point between the Hudson and the Mohawk Rivers. Leaving Waterford we rode a few miles beside the Hudson River. Leaving the river we rode through a sandy barren country to Saratoga. This is a tasty place. The houses are generally painted white and indeed everything is finished in the most elegant and showy manner, Congress Hall in particular. It is a long white building with a row of white pillars in front and these pillars have green vines twisted around them in an elegant and splendid manner. The United States Hotel is the largest building. It is of brick and four stories high, and has one hundred and twenty lodging rooms. We visited a number of the springs and tasted of the Congress and Wash- ington waters and found them very disagreeable. We vis- ited a number of smaller note and one of them had a singular rock formed over it. We walked to the much admired Pine Grove, and rode to Ballston. This is a pretty village, but not to be compared with Saratoga in size or in beauty, although some of the houses are very handsome. I saw the
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Lafayette Springs at Ballston, but did not taste of the water, being satisfied with those I had previously tasted. We rode to a small village called "Larkings Corner." Tuesday eve- ing has come and I do not feel those low spirits. Travelling has a very agreeable effect on me, it enlivens my feelings and gives me an excellent appetite.
October 4. We rode to Schenectady. This appears to be an ancient town. The buildings are small and old and formed after the Dutch mode of building. They have noth- ing of that taste and elegance, which we saw in Saratoga and Ballston. Union College is situated on a hill opposite the town. It consists of large white buildings with a beautiful green around them, which makes a very grand appearance. Here we again saw the canal, as it passes through the town, and we crossed it three times. On leaving Schenectady, we . crossed the Mohawk River on a singular bridge built of large beams and braces, and so constructed as to form a very strong and substantial conveyance. Later in the day we crossed the river on a flat ferry-boat. We rode along the banks of the river to Amsterdam. It is a small village settled by the Dutch. A great part of the inhabitants in this vicinity are Dutch, or of that descent. We have this evening put up at a Dutch Tavern. It is a fine large white house. In front flows the Mohawk River, beyond is the canal and then the country road. The inside of the house is finished after the Dutch style and what was better we had an excellent supper. This evening for the first time I have been reminded of home. It was the music on the canal that sounded across the Mohawk, and so resembled the music we often hear from the vessels as they pass Field Point at home, and for a moment I could scarce believe that I was not really at home. The name of this place is "Palistina." We found bad roads to-day.
October 5. Another foggy morning. We have had only one clear morning since we left home. The clouds and fog are generally dispersed in an hour or two after the sun is up. We found bad roads this morning and broke our carriage and "galled" our horse, and have stopped to take a new start. Everything is now in readiness again to start and we crossed another bridge similar in construction to that across the river near Schenectady. The name of this river is "Canawah Creek." We next visited Little Falls and the canal near them. The canal here is a curiosity, or its locks by which it is carried up the falls. The boats here look
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better than any I have seen before. There is a flourishing little village here, principally built of stone cut in the shape of large brick. From this village we rode to Herkimer. Here we crossed the Mohawk again and again came in con- tact with the canal, and in our ride to Utica, which was twelve miles, we crossed it nine times. We saw a number of boats and saw the canal carried over two small streams. It was quite late this evening before we reached Utica. When we entered the main street it had the appearance of New York, the Bowery and Chatham Street in particular. We took a walk and saw the packet boats come in and all was bustle and confusion. Some gentlemen were running with ladies and others with trunks, and in a few minutes they were off again. This was done several times, and now on the arrival of the stage all is bustle and confusion again. There were five stages during the evening, and the valet told my gallant that the stages and boats were continually calling, so as to keep them busy during the night. Utica is the most agreeable place I have seen on our ride. It is neat and
showy, built after the English style, and full of business and very lively, more so than formerly on account of the canal, which passes through the town in the form of a street with walks on each side. Brother Oliver says, Utica has grown very fast since he was here before, which was about six years ago. He thinks it is very near as large again as it was when he first saw it. The appearance of the inhabitants is different from those we have been travelling among. They are large, but well proportioned and more easy in their manners, or not "so much Duchafyed."
October 6. A delightful morning. We rode through New Hartford, which is a pleasant little village. Bridge- water and Vernon were next. After leaving Vernon, we passed by a number of Indian huts and for the first time I saw the Indians. They looked very dirty in their dress and their huts appeared neither comfortable nor convenient. We saw a piece of ground, which we took to be their burying place. It appeared much like the Friends burying yard, excepting there was no regularity about it. Some one had shamefully misused their sacred place by plowing up a part of it. We passed Sullivan and Manlius this afternoon and rode to Onondaga Hollow, where we spent the night.
October 7. Cloudy and prospects of rain, but we set out early in hopes of reaching Genoa the same evening; rode to Nine Mile Hollow. This is a singular village situated between
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two steep hills; rode to Skaneateles. This is an elegant village. It lies at the head of a lake of the same name. The houses are generally built of wood and painted white. They appear to have more taste about their houses, yards and gar- dens, than is generally seen in this country. We arrived at Auburn about two o'clock in a shower of wind, hail and rain. The shower was soon over. Mr. Holly and brother Oliver walked out and met with Amos Husted, who was the first person I saw since I left home, that I had seen before. He was going to Genoa, and invited us to accompany him; so we set out having him for a guide. The clouds soon grew black and it began to rain again. We concluded that it looked like a week's storm and thought it best to go on, so we wrapped our cloaks around us and arrived at Mrs. Caleb Lyon's in the evening.
October 8. More pleasant than we expected. Rode to Northville to church, heard Mr. Smith preach from Romans, tenth chapter, twentieth verse. In the afternoon from Gen- esis, eighteenth chapter, twenty-third, fourth and fifth verses. Two good sermons. We saw numerous friends, some of whom knew only our parents, who expressed great pleasure in seeing us. In the evening we walked down to the Five Corners to an evening meeting and heard an exhortation delivered by Dr. Smith from these words "Christ sayed follow me." This evening had a call from Mr. and Mrs. Palmer.
October 9 to 15. Were spent in calling on and visiting friends and relatives in Genoa.
October 16. We expected to ride to Auburn to-day, but it is raining and I think we shall be disappointed. The weather has cleared and at eleven o'clock we set out and at four we arrived at Auburn. Auburn is not very pleasant, being low and muddy. The theological seminary is an ele- gant edifice. It is built of stone and situated on a hill a little north of the village. We visited the State's Prison. The prison and its walls are built of stone. They are very strong and high. On entering we were informed that there were three hundred and thirty convicts, seven of whom were females. The first we saw was a company of several dejected fellows. They came one after the other to one of the prison gates and all with fallen countenances. They all appeared healthy. I scarcely ever saw so many stout looking men together without one sickly one, and those that were at their work had more the look of satisfaction in their countenances.
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October 17. At four o'clock this morning I was handed into the stage by my gallant and rode thirteen miles to Seneca Falls, where we took breakfast. In our ride this morning we passed over Cayuga Lake on a bridge said to be a mile and a half in length. We had no view of the lake owing to a fog, which entirely covered the water. We rode several miles by the Seneca River and all at once we came in sight of Seneca Lake. We travelled at the north end of the lake, saw a sloop on its waters, which appeared very natural. It bears no resemblance to Long Island Sound. After leav- ing the lake we came to Geneva. This is a large village. Some of the streets are paved. There are a number of ele- gant public buildings and the private houses are neat and frequently elegant. They are generally built of brick of a pale color. From this place we rode to Canandaigua. We passed a lake of the same name. The village is smaller than Geneva. The houses are neat, new and elegant, and are painted a light yellow, which appeared very showy. We dined here. This afternoon we rode through a new country- one that was filled with stumps and logs and frequently burned as black as fire could make them. After riding all the afternoon and until eight in the evening, we arrived at Rochester-a new and pleasant village. It appeared to a very good advantage after so tedious a ride. Six years ago there was scarce a building here, and far the greatest part has been built in the last three years. The houses are built in the modern style and are generally large and handsome.
October 18. This morning we stepped on board one of the canal packet boats. It is a gay thing painted in the finest style. As we left Rochester we had a beautiful view of it. It appeared more elegant than last evening. Little did I expect to see so fine a place in the new country. As we left Rochester the small houses and stumps were thickly "intermined," but they were soon out of sight and we had a full view of the trees and stumps. Brockport is the largest village we have passed since we came on the canal. It is very small. Has one pleasant street. The houses are principally brick. At Hawley, the canal is carried across a valley forty or fifty feet deep. The embankment appears very strong, but should it at any time give way, it appears that the canal would very soon be entirely emptied. We passed through Newport this evening.
October 19. At Lockport. We passed several locks in the night which I had no opportunity of seeing. We left
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the packet at an early hour. Lockport is another one of those villages which the canal has been the means of build- ing. This is a place of considerable business, but there is something unpleasant in its appearance. I have just been observing a sheep team, a curiosity I never saw before. They were driven about as meek as lambs. They quite forgot their dignity when the dogs barked at them and ran to their driver for protection. We were soon seated in the stage in company with a gentlemen from Tennessee and another from Ireland. They were very sociable and full of their jokes, which helped to pass the time more agreeably, while we were riding over a bad road, which lasted for five or six miles from Lockport. After this we had a good road. Just before we came to Lewiston, we observed the monument erected over General Brock's remains. It is built of white marble. Is one hundred and fifty feet high and is con- structed in such a manner as to accommodate observers from the top. It stands on Queenstown Heights on the Canadian side, and here for the first time I saw the British dominions. We proceeded on the American side and in a short time we caught sight of the fog that arose from the Niagara Falls and could distinctly hear the water that poured over the rocks roar. This sight was just as I had painted it to myself. The sides of the river for more than a mile are completely lined with perpendicular rocks, which had a rough and terrific appearance, and perfectly coincides with the idea that the falls were once some distance below, and by the force of so large a body of water have by degrees worn it away to its present location, and this I think must be permanent. . It seems impossible that the rocks around Goat Island should ever give way to the force of water. We are now at the hotel within a short distance of the falls. Have observed a constant tremor in everything around us, occa- sioned by the falling of the water. We are impatiently waiting for dinner, so we can have a more particular view of this great curiosity of nature. Have spent this afternoon in rambling about the falls. I have taken all the different views from the American side and what shall I say of this terrible and grand piece of nature. I know not where to begin, nor in what language to express my ideas to convey them in terms strong enough to describe this majestic scene. We first crossed the bridge on Goat Island. From this situation we saw the water for some distance above come "dousing" and foaming down a descent, then frequently
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coming up in a sharp high wave fly several feet in the air in various forms and shapes. We then crossed the island to view the western part of the river. Here the water flows faster and was deeper and pours over the rocks in a majestic manner. I will not attempt a description for an accurate one is out of my power. We followed the path that leads around the island and soon came in sight of the eastern part of the falls. We crossed the bridge back again, and walked down on the eastern side, and went down to the edge of the river and stood on the brink, and as many may say I had the foolishness to put my foot in the water. Here we saw the river rush down the rocks in the wildest fury. Leaving this spot we walked down to the ferry. In passing over to the Canadian side, we had a new view. The mist and fog that arose from the falling water ascended to a great height and hung in a grand and beautiful festoon. The water, as if anxious to hurl itself down the precipice, was falling in a wide white sheet and bounding in a terrific manner on the broken rocks below. From thence the fog arose and the water foaming, boiling and raging hastened away. It being now after sunset every scene was of majestic gloom, and the falls apparently roared the louder to warn us of the approach of night. We were soon across, but not without some toil. The current turned the boat around several times, but having good oarsmen, we soon gained the shore and for the first time walked on British ground. An event which will be long remembered on several accounts. I now find myself at an elegant Mansion House opposite the falls and feel as much at ease as I should at my father's, but I feel myself at a great distance from home. I have not been attacked with the disease of homesickness.
October 20. I was misinformed last evening. This is the Niagara Pavilion. We have a delightful prospect here. The land is green and smooth. We have an elegant view of the Niagara River. Spent the morning in rambling about the banks of the river and viewing the falls. The most superb and grandest sight I ever beheld, I never saw any language that could describe the half that is to be seen here on the Canadian side. It is much the better prospect on the west side. This afternoon we again seated ourselves in the stage and rode to Waterloo, opposite Black Rock. Here we crossed the Niagara River, bidding Canada adieu. I was much pleased with the attention we met with and the manner in which I spent my time there. Black Rock is a small
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village. It was burned by his majesty's officers during the last war. This evening we rode to Buffalo, put up at the Eagle Tavern. It was dark when we came in so we shall not walk out this evening. Took supper in the dining room. It is the most splendid room of the kind I ever saw in the country. The paper that covered the walls represented a hunting party of ladies and gentlemen. The ceilings were high, the room spacious and the furniture elegant.
October 21. Have just returned from a walk and find Buffalo to be a pleasant place. The houses are generally large and handsome. There is a church here that is not finished, which will be one of the finest churches I have ever seen. The court house is an elegant building. It is brick and painted lead color with a row of white pillars in front and edged with white. We again set out on a stage ride about nine. It began to rain in an hour or two. The roads were considerably muddy. We took dinner at Batavia. This is a neat little village. We stopped a short time at Leroy, which is a pleasant village. At Leroy the sun set and it had ceased to rain, but a fog came over, which made it very dark, and we had fifteen miles to ride before we reached Avon, where we expected to spend the Sabbath. We arrived there about ten after a tedious ride. This evening we crossed the Genesee River, during our ride. This morning we saw a young bear and fox. The bear was cross, but the fox was very quick and sly. The next time we stopped we saw a young deer. It was very gentle and came into the house and associated with the family like a pet lamb; saw an Indian and his lady, who appeared to be in good circum- stances. They were mounted on a pair of fine horses and dressed in gay attire with feathers and pink and red trim- mings.
October 22. Sunday morning. It being foggy and two miles from Avon Church, I believe we shall not attend church to-day. Brother Oliver attended the Methodist Church.
October 23. A clear, frosty morning. We are again on our way towards home. Called at Bloomfield. Here we heard the report of the Avon Springs, sometimes they are called Sulphur Springs from the strong sulphurous smell. They are said to have stronger medicinal qualities than the Saratoga waters, and are a certain cure for rheumatism, and indeed for every disease, but consumption. In this morn- ing's ride we again came to Canandaigua, taking the same
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route that we came out on. Canandaigua appears much better than when we passed through it before. We took dinner at Geneva. On leaving Geneva we took the north road instead of the lake road and passed through Waterloo, a small, but neat village. I think there is a prospect of this place growing much larger, as there are great opportunities for water-works here. They have commenced a canal beside the Seneca River, which leads to the Seneca Lake. There are several mills situated on this river. Since they changed horses the last time the driver has run them several times and once we came very near being upset off of a bridge four or five feet high. This evening we crossed the Cayuga Lake again on a bridge and had a good view of the lake. The lake above the bridge appears something like the western part of the sound, but that below is different from any view I ever saw. It is very wide at one place and we could look out of sight of land. We arrived at Auburn about nine.
October 24. Had a call from Mr. Enoch Mead. Heard from home for the first time. My relatives are well, but some of my acquaintances are sick, and one has died. Mr. Mead invited us to visit the theological seminary, and we accepted the invitation. We saw the library, which con- tains three thousand volumes, and had a pleasant walk in the garden. Left Auburn at eleven and arrived at Mrs. N. Lyon's at four o'clock.
October 25, 26 and 27. Were spent visiting friends and relatives at Genoa.
October 28. Spent last night at Mr. Holmes', called at Deacon Lyon's, rode to Ludlowville and dined with Mr. Curtis. Then rode to Danby and spent the night at Mr. Beers'. In our ride to-day we passed through Ithaca. It is a pleasant growing village and has a larger proportion of public buildings than is usual. Mr. Beers has a pleasant, neat situation.
October 29. The weather is pleasant and mild this morning. This was unexpected yesterday, as it then was chilly and stormy. Attended church with Mr. Beers' family. Heard Dr. Beers preach from Isaiah, sixth chapter and ninth verse. In the afternoon heard Mr. Finna preach from Mat- thew, twelfth chapter and thirtieth verse. When we returned home it rained in torrents and the wind blew a gale.
October 30. Another pleasant morning, but cool. We are expecting Mr. and Mrs. Holly to call for us to proceed on our homeward journey. Called at Mr. J. Beers'. He has an
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interesting lady. Mr. and Mrs. Holly came before we returned. After dinner we set out taking leave of Mr. Beers' family. This being the last family of our acquaint- ance in this vicinity. The idea of returning to my friends again gave me pleasure, but still I felt a reluctance, which I gave no reason for. We found the roads muddy. In this country we saw great quantities of black logs and stumps. Our road lay between two ranges of mountains that were covered with pines, cedars and hemlocks. We frequently came in sight of the Owego River. This evening we passed through a beautiful grove of pine trees. Arrived at Owego after dark.
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