USA > Washington DC > Washington DC > Reminiscences of the District of Columbia, or, Washington city seventy-nine years ago, 1830-1909 > Part 3
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
They were devout Catholics, and each morning, dur- ing Lent especially, you could see them attending "mass." One morning Miss Anna left home early to attend church. A note was found in her room, saying she would return no more, but would become a "nun" in the convent in Georgetown.
On the corner of Twentieth and Pennsylvania avenue was a large brick store, owned and kept by Mr. Samuel Stott. On that street were several houses, occupied by persons who kept "shops," where one could purchase any small article. One in particular, kept by "Pat Magee." His was the largest shop, and, if was said, he had plenty of money. On Eighteenth street, two doors from the corner of H, lived three sisters named Travis. The eldest married a painter named Darnall; the others, Miss Nancy and Miss Liz- zie, were "old maids." It was reported that Miss Liz- zie and Pat Magee were to be married shortly. A few days before the time set for the wedding, Pat was found dead in bed. He had always enjoyed perfect health, as his person showed. It was whis- pered around that someone interested had put a "spider in his dumpling," as he intended leaving all his money to the Catholic Church, of which he was a member.
On the corner east from the market house, Mr.
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
David Hines built a large brick store, in which Mr. Duval kept a grocery. Next east, on the north side of the avenue, Mr. Hines built a residence, and occu- pied it, having married Miss Duval, sister of the one who kept the store on the corner.
North of the market house, on I street, between Twentieth and Twenty-first, were the residences of the wealthy. The Pattersons, of Bonaparte notoriety, lived on the corner of Twenty-first. Coming east the Tottens, Eatons, Lytles and others whose names I have forgotten lived. Going west from the corner of Twenty-first was another row of buildings, painted light color to distinguish them from the six buildings two blocks east. These were the seven buildings, also occupied by the wealthy. After passing these houses was a vacant place, or commons, occupying two or three blocks, where was a cow pasture, and one could look north and see in the distance "Kalorama," be- longing to Colonel Burnford, Holmead's burying ground, Douglass' nursery, and a "swamp," where the people went for blackberries and huckleberries in their season, still further north, in the swamp, grew magnolias, also wild azelias. No pavements or side- walks were laid along here at this time, but large step- ping stones, to keep one out of the mud, more than a foot apart, were laid. One could walk or jump singly
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
on the north side of Pennsylvania avenue. After pass- ing over these stones, were a cluster of houses called "the round tops," near the place where the "Circle" now is. These houses were almost as infamous as the "five points" in New York. Some fifteen or twenty girls from the city attended Miss Lydia S. English's academy in Georgetown. The Rittenhouses, grand- daughters of Parson Laurie, the Williamsons, grand- daughters of Dr. Balch, and nieces of General Mc- Comb, Wilcoxes, Hills, Munroes, and several others. Each morning, we would wait on the corner of Twen- ty-second and all go together, for we were afraid to go alone. This was in 1840 and 1843.
After the "round tops" were passed, were three or four brick houses, three stories, with brick pavement in front. Mr. Cissel lived in one; his daughter also went to the academy, and further west, on the top of the hill, was the large brick house where Paget, the French minister, lived. The road turning toward the north, at the foot of the hills to pass over the bridge that crossed Rock Creek. After passing the bridge you would be in Georgetown. Turn south and east and go back to the city, four or five tumble-down houses, where whites and blacks lived together; then on until you could see "Haman's Brewery" over the common on the next street that led to Water street,
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
Georgeton. Mr. Haman had a fine residence opposite the brewery, where his family lived, on the south side of the street. On the north side lived the Smoots and Waggoners. Quite a large white brick on the south side of Pennsylvania avenue stood alone, where lived a gentleman and his family, three or four boys. I have forgotten the name, but he was in the employ of the government and afterwards at the National Observ- atory. Then two or three little frame houses, and you were opposite the "round tops." A street and the avenue crossed here, making a point.
On the corner, across this street, was a large, gloomy brick house, where the British minister, Mr. Fox, lived. He was a very tall man, over six feet, and carried his head leaning to the side, never raising his eyes or no- ticing anyone, his chin covered with his cravat, and as surly looking as one could imagine. He never ap- peared on the street before six o'clock, but slept all day, and sat up all night, with twelve wax candles to light his study. No visitor was admitted before eight
in the evening. The children all ran if they saw him coming, and thought him a terrible giant, ready to eat them on short notice. From Fox's there was no side- walk until you were opposite the seven buildings; then three or four houses with porches in front, where the Grammers and Ashtons lived. Here the sidewalk be-
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
gan. The Drurys lived near here; there were several
sons. John Drury married Miss Mary Donelon, sister of Father James Donelon, of St. Matthew's Church, two daughters. Elizabeth Drury married James Shee- han, who wrote the life of Stephen A. Douglass. Then on until you came to Dr. William Magruder's on the corner. From this point you could see to the Potomac, and on the hill, where the National Observatory is now, was the "glass works," where all night the men would work at the furnaces. You could stand on the corner of Dr. Magruder's and see the red glare, and the work- men running to and fro, reminding one of "Pande- monium."
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
AN ECCENTRIC DIPLOMAT.
THE QUAINT PERSONALITY AND STRANGE LIFE OF MINISTER FOX.
(From the Washington Evening Star.)
The former representative of the government of Great Britain to this country, Henry Stephen Fox, of whom the good story is told that when he met ac- quaintances in daylight he remarked how strange was their appearance, for they had never seen each other except by candle light, is well remembered by a few of our older citizens as a most eccentric character. He was a figure as well known as most of the notables of his day. He had long been in the diplomatic service of Great Britain, and when sent here from South America to succeed Sir Charles Vaughan, one of the most affable, as well as brilliant members of the diplo- matic corps, Mr. Fox was expected to fill his place in society circles. Indeed, so much had been said of his witticisms and eccentricities that Washington was looking for a social lion. If any knew of his dis- like of some of the society functions our upper ten was not informed, and there was much disappointment
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
that he did not step in the shoes of Sir Charles, to the highest social position. A great-grandson of the Duke of Richmond, son of a general who had fought against our fathers in the revolution, and nephew of the great Whig leader in the British Parliament, Washington society expected in him a leader.
Mr. Fox proved an acquisition to the society of the capital, at least so far as to furnish a subject for soci- ety gossip, and it was not long before his eccentric habits, his peculiar attire and his brilliant witticisms were known not only in society circles, but by the general public. Even the street gamins recognized him in his late afternoon strolls. Once seen, he could not be easily mistaken for another. In person he was tall and slim-exceedingly so-with the cadaverous complexion of an opium eater. He was scrupulously neat in his attire, and usually in his walks wore a blue cloth, swallow-tailed coat with brass buttons, nankeen pants-minus straps, then worn by all classes-broad- brimmed hat, and to his shirt a high, standing collar, reaching the top of his ears. His identity was further emphasized by a green silk umbrella in his hand, and this to him was useless unless it rained, for he was seldom out of doors when the sun shone.
Mr. Fox lived in a large brick house on K street, west of what is now Washington circle. He
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
was almost a hermit, going in official society only so far as duty required, and receiving but few visitors. His few entertainments took the form of dinners to gentlement, after which the night was often spent at the card table, on which there were no small stakes. His day began about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, when he rose from bed and dressed, and took a walk to the capitol grounds and back to his breakfast. In the evening he would attend the socity functions of the diplomats, seldom of any others, and after water- ing his flowers, of which he was excessively fond, would return to bed ere the sun had risen. He had an aversion to shaking hands with ladies, and gave that as an excuse for not opening his house to recep- tions ; but, in reality, his residence was so lumbered up with old furniture, for which he had a mania, that there was not much room for entertaining any consid- erable number. Another hobby of his was entomol- ogy, and he had a large collection of specimens stowed away in boxes, many of which were never opened.
It was thought that he was a victim of the opium habit, and the supposition proved correct. His serv- ants were charged never to disturb him or enter his presence except when summoned. One night, in the early part of October, 1846, he remained in his cham- ber undisturbed, but when late the next day one of
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
the domestics, despite the usage, went to his room, he found him in a lethargic condition.
Physicians, hastily called, worked on him, but their efforts proved futile. Death came in a few hours. The supposition was that death was caused by an overdose of the drug he had long been addicted to using. His funeral was a large and imposing one, attended by the president (Mr. Polk), and his cab- inet, the diplomatic corps and numbers of the leading men of the nation and district. But for his eccentrici- ties and the rules of his household, a most brilliant personage might have lived to a green old age and added luster to the family name.
There were not more than twenty houses in that neighborhood, scattered here and there. In the tall, white brick, Major Hetzel lived; also the Cooledges, Goldsboroughs and Porters. This brings my wander- ings back to G street, northwest, between Nineteenth and Twentieth; to the double house, occupied by Gen- eral Lewis Cass; also the Wainrights. The German Lutheran Church, where Rev. Samuel Finkel preached in German, the only church in the city, at that time, where that language was used. East, a row of frame buildings, where the Ourands, Streets and Milsons lived; then the brick house on the corner, where a boarding house was kept, where Mrs. Dr. Elzey, of
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
whom I have written, boarded. Mrs. Elzey used a pound of "Macoboy" snuff every week; where she sat in her room, it lay thick upon the floor. Often I would go there, and when the offered me a "seed cake" I would always refuse, for I was afraid of the snuff. She was a kind friend of our family, and sym- pathy is often of more value than money. At one time she lived in affluence, though then reduced to a comfortless room (with a colored woman, "Peggy," to wait upon her. Across Eighteenth street was Gov- ernor Marcey's residence. Next, Major T. P. An- drews lived, in a large, red brick house of three stor- ies, with a one-story ell on the east, entirely covered with running roses that bloomed constantly.
In the ell was a ball room, with eating room back; an immense flower garden on the premises, in the centre of which was an old pear tree that used to hang full of little sugar pears, no larger than a plum. That tree was standing and bore fruit twelve years ago. When Major Andrews bought the house it was in a dilapidated condition. No one had lived in it since General Lear shot himself there; horses and cattle had roamed through the beautiful lower rooms; the garden was a wilderness. Suicides, in those days, were uncommon, they being buried at night; and divorces were as disgraceful. No worse stigma could
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
be attached to one than to have said of them, "he, or she, has been divorced." The persons were shunned in society. But those days have passed and gone. On the north side of the street, opposite Governor Marcy's, a brick house stood, a little back from the street, where lived the Misses King. Next, a frame. Next, Mr. Benjamin Rittenhouse lived. Then the wagon shops; and on the corner, Nancy Coakley, a colored woman, whose doughnuts, souse, and hominy had a reputation in our part of the city, lived. This brings us to the war department, a low, one-story building, like the treasury, on the east of the "White House."
The whole area from Seventeenth to Fifteenth streets, south of the President's house, was a "marl" where the fireworks were exhibited on the Fourth of July. It was a low, marshy place, extending to the canal. On the Fourth of July, the year Clay and Trelinghuysen were the candidates for the presi- dency, the fireworks were to be unusually magnificent. Thousands of people were assembled upon the grounds, waiting for the exhibition to commence. The man who had charge of the whole was intoxi- cated, and in some way overturned a stand, with twenty or thirty rockets. They exploded, flying through the crowd in every direction. Many were
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
wounded; one woman, sitting upon the south wall of the president's grounds, had a rocket driven entirely through her shoulder. She died in a few days, and many suffered for months from wounds inflicted.
From Seventeenth street, south of the war depart- ment, was built a high stone wall, octagonal in shape, twelve feet high, filled in with earth, and brought the south grounds level with the top of the wall. It would bring you out on Pennsylvania avenue and Fifteenth street, where several frame sheds stood. Mills was building, or casting, the "Equestrian Statue of General Jackson." On the corner of Fifteenth street and Pennsylvania avenue, the Misses Pillings had a thread and needle store, afterwards adding but- tons, tape, linen and hosiery; after a few years you could purchase any article in their line, from the coarsest to the finest, and be sure you got the quality of things you purchased. In after years they built an elegant building on this same place, from, or with, the proceeds of their industry.
Going north on Fifteenth street to Douglass' green- house, were shops of different kinds, in the old frame buildings with underground cellars, where could be seen, at all hours, people of the roughest kind, going in and out. Next Miss Pillings', on the avenue, was a restaurant; then Brown's hotel, where the "Indian
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
delegation" always stopped. I have seen often twenty or more Indians at once, sitting on the porch or on the curbstone; and savage creatures they looked, with paint, feathers and blankets. Then an alley. Next Mr. Owens' tailoring establishment was a dwelling. Then, on the corner, a hotel (not Willard's). This hotel was a small affair in comparison with the hotels of today; it extended half a block north, on Four- teenth street. Across Fourteenth street, on the corner, was a drug store. Next, east, on E street, running back from the avenue, where it made an angle, Dr. William Miller, considered the first in the city, and at that time the largest practitioner; next, Dr. Hum- phreys, a dentist; next, a very large printing office ; next, the National theatre, where Jenny Lind sang a short time before, it was almost destroyed by fire. From the theatre to the corner of Thirteenth were three or four eating houses. Turning south on Thir- teenth street, to the avenues, the stores began. A store on the corner. Next a Mr. Travis lived, in a three-story brick. Next, Mrs. Voss, jewelry, musical instruments, knitting silks, beads, etc. At that time purses and reticules were carried by the ladies. I knitted dozens for that store. Next came France's lottery office, bringing you to Twelfth street.
Going back to Fifteenth street, where the avenue
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
turned, on the South Side, were a row of brick houses. Three or four were the auditor's offices. Next, Mr. Labbie had a dancing school, where most of the chil- dren attended, especially those whose parents lived in the "West End," as all that part of the city west of the President's house was called. General Thomas lived next. Mr. George Lamb had a harness and saddler shop next. Two or three houses brought you to the corner. Across the street, east, a very large livery stable. It was burned with one hundred and fifty horses. For weeks you could smell the scorched flesh.
Marr's Globe Hotel came next. Then, the Odeon building, an upstairs room, where fairs and enter- tainments were held. Under this building a family named Morrow lived. Mr. Morrow always spoke in a whisper; some affliction of the throat. He had a beautiful daughter, named Julia. A grocery store on the corner; you were then at Thirteenth street. From this corner, going south and east, was a path to the steamboat landing. Not a house, or vestige of anything, on the "Island," as it was called. This path, I think, crossed the grounds where the "Smith- sonian Institute" now stands. Going back to the avenue and Thirteenth, north side, was Mrs. Ander- son's music store, one of the handsomest in the city.
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
Besides music, she had school books, stationery-I believe anything in her line you could call for could be found in this store. Her husband was dreadfully dissipated, never drawing a sober breath. She had a daughter named Gertrude, a very beautiful girl. About this time many refuges came from Europe. Gertrude, unfortunately, married one of them, and afterward learned he had a family in the Old Country. Next was a very large confectionery and fruit store, kept by a Frenchman named "Gautier." Several beau- tiful stores from this point: Mr. Lewis, jeweler; Mrs. Chambers, worsted and patterns; Mrs. Clitch, variety store; Madame Buhler, hair dresser and costumer in general. Galt's jewelry store was in this neighbor- hood; Savage's, hardware, etc .; Woodward's, hard- ware and stoves; Broadbent's fancy store, where the first lady clerks in the city were employed. This street ran back from the avenue, which made another angle.
Opposite these stores, and in the government res- ervation on the south side, was the Centre Market, held three times a week. It was a sight to behold, the things displayed for sale, and everything clean as a pin; in fruit season the peaches could be scented for blocks in every direction. I think the market extended from Ninth to Seventh, and from the avenue to the canal. At Seventh street was a bridge over the canal,
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
and from this point another way to get to the "long bridge" and steamboat landing. The Long Bridge was a mile across the Potomac, with a draw near the cen- tre; after crossing the bridge you were in Virginia, for about this time the state retroceeded from the Dis- trict the land that was given to the District when first laid out.
It was called a mile from the corner of Fifteenth street to the foot of the Capitol. It was the principal promenade in the city. No car tracks; the street was macadamized. They had begun to enlarge the treas- ury buildings, and the streets were blockaded with "derricks" and hundreds of men cutting stone. Other parts of the city were being built. Mr. Samuel Stott built the double brick on H street, where General Win- field Scott lived. Mr. William Wilson built two frame houses on Twentieth street, between G and H; the Ray's stone house, on the corner of the same street. At this time Washington began to grow. Smith's Presbyterian Church, on Ninth street, south of McLeod's school, was commenced. Houses were being built on H street. We could stand on our front step and count more than four hundred houses in process of erection.
Going north, out Fifteenth street, over the com- mons, was a two-story brick house, painted yellow,
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
where Mrs. Charles Hill lived for many years. Not any houses to be seen, except Mr. Morsell's, until you came to Franklin row, which was east and north of the "Demineaux" building, of which I have writ- ten. It seemed almost in the country. The "Sol- diers' Home," built by Mr. George W. Riggs for a country residence, was out this road. Mrs. Riggs was a beautiful lady, of Irish parentage, daughter of Mrs. Shedden, a widow who had two daughters, Cecelia and Janet. Cecelia became the wife of Com- modore Cooper, who died, leaving her a widow with- out children. Janet married Mr. George W. Riggs; she had a large family, and died in London, while on a visit, in 1872. The Columbian College and Mr. Stone, engraver, had his residence in this neighbor- hood; his place of business was on the south side of Pennsylvania avenue, but I have forgotten the exact location.
Mr. Samuel Redfern had a farm of twelve acres on this road, about three miles from the city, in the neighborhood of Rock Creek Church, and burying ground. In warm weather Mrs. Redfern, with her two daughters, Elizabeth and Janie, would have her "carryall" with three seats, and take a load of chil- dren out to the farm, and there give them a treat of berries and cream. It was a feast, I can assure you.
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
The house was occupied, except one room, which was furnished with chairs and table; also dishes and cups. We would have a picnic, I can tell you, which we all enjoyed.
At this time all the city north of I street, from the "Northern Liberties" to Georgetown, was a marshy cow pasture, with only an occasional small house. Where Sheppherd's row now stands was unfit to live upon; and Sheppherd was a clerk in Reed's grocery store, on F street. Truly, Washington was a city of "magnificent distances." Over on the hill, somewhere between Nineteenth and Twenty-first streets, was a place called "Favier's Garden," where he had lovely flowers growing, and a pit he called "the laboratory," where men manufactured and bottled "soda water," to be sold in the city or at his restaurant, corner Nineteenth and F streets. No houses from Twentieth south of G. street. You could see the canal, with its wood and coal yards, and I remember to have gone to a launch near Georgetown, near Water street, in the neighborhood of Haman's brewery.
All this time the whortleberries, blackberries and wild Azelia grew. I remember two red-brick houses north of the avenue, way out on the commons, two or more blocks apart, but exactly alike. Two windows on either side of a front door, which was very wide;
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Washington City Seventy-nine Years Ago
five windows in the second story, all closed with white board shutters, and were used for some purpose that would not bear investigation. They were called "the Lock-up houses." The slaughter houses of Walker and Little, butchers, were in this vicinity.
About this time Mr. Charles Abert built a square brick, corner of Eighteenth and I, east side; and still later a row of bricks were built running east to Gen- eral McComb's. On the south side of this street was Abbott's school for boys, on the corner. Next west, Mr. John M. Moore's; next, Mr. Gordon's; several houses were west of these houses. On the corner, a blue frame, where Mrs. Hagar kept a bakery. A few years after, houses were built on the east side of Eighteenth from H to I streets. On the corner of Eighteenth and H, Mr. Parker built two houses, or a double house, with entrances on the east and west. The house had a porch on either side; rather a pecu- liar looking house, but very convenient. On the west side of the street Mr. Robinson lived, on the corner. Next, Mr. Darnall's; next, Mr. Soussa; next, Mr. Daniel Brown; next, Mrs. Forest, a dressmaker ; next, a brick house, near the corner, where Mr. Caball lived. And across the street Miss Betsy Watson lived; this house was a white brick, standing back from the street, a lovely flower garden in front. Tulips, hyacinths and
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Reminiscences of the District of Columbia; or,
crocus peeped soon as the snow melted; an Althea tree on each side of the front gate, ten or twelve feet high, covered with blooms, one white, the other pur- ple flowers. Next west, a white two-story frame- very few houses in Washington at this time were more than two stories. In this house Mrs. Doyle had a room, and taught a class in "Theomsi Painting." She was a cripple, having been stunned by lightning August 12th, 1839. That same storm like to have ex- tinguished your humble servant; then you would not have had this little history. I will relate the circum- stances.
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