USA > Georgia > Floyd County > Rome > A history of Rome and Floyd County, State of Georgia, United States of America; including numerous incidents of more than local interest, 1540-1922, Volume I > Part 34
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Mr. Stewart says deer used to run wild through the woods around Rome in the thirties, and that Jim Ragan shot one near the Etowah River and the foot of Third Avenue, about the location of the John W. Maddox place, in front of the old J. A. Gammon home spot.
Mrs. Robert Battey used to have a pet deer given her by her father,
William Smith, and she had seen deer jump the fences while the dogs chased them. Her deer became enraged on one occasion, attacked a woman and had to be shot.
READY WIT OF THE UNDER- WOODS .- Many clever stories are told of the "absolution" with which the late Judge John W. H. Under- wood, Congressman from Rome before the Civil War and noted humorist and wit, dominated jury and bar. Rome lawyers of the old school like Judge Joel Branham, Judge G. A. H. Harris and Frank Copeland remember well his fine sarcasm, his rare good nature and the quickness of his intellect.
A lawyer whose client had "gone up the spout-guilty" asked Judge Un- derwood for a light sentence because the defendant was somewhat dull, to which the Judge replied: "Then it will take a heavy penalty to make an impression on him," and gave the man the limit.
At a meeting in Pittsburg of the Tariff Commission to which President Arthur in 1882 appointed Judge Un- derwood, a Mr. Butler stated that pro- tection would increase the number of furnaces and thus reduce the price of pig iron. "Then," queried Judge Un- derwood, "you want a high tariff so you can sell your product at a low price ?"
At another time the elder Under- wood wrote to a friend: "I cheerfully recommend my son, John, for the job of Solicitor General. He has more ambition for office and fewer qualifi- cations than any man I ever saw!"
A story is told locally which illus- trates the fine sense of humor and the quick perception of Judge John W. H. Underwood. A Rome man who was in a financial tight went to Judge Under- wood to obtain his endorsement.
"If you will sign my note I will go to the bank and get $300," stated the caller.
"Just make it $600," shot back Judge Underwood, "I need that much my- self."
Judge Nisbet wrote of the elder Un- derwood, who was the block of which the son was a chip: "Judge Un- derwood, the elder, was a greater wit than Sheridan, but unfortunately, he had no Boswell to write his biogra- phy or Constitution reporter to pub- lish what he said. He was once en- gaged in a case, and the judge, after
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charging very violently against him, locked the jury up for the night and adjourned the court. After tea the Judge and Underwood were walking on the piazza of the hotel near the court- house, and heard quite a movement of chairs and feet in the jury room, at which the judge remarked, 'I believe the jury have gone to prayers.' Un- derwood said : 'I suspect so. Failing to get any light from your honor's charge, they are seeking it from above.' "
Governor John B. Gordon wrote: "When Underwood lived in Elbert, a man was abusing him roundly, and ended by saying, 'Yes, sir, and I un- derstand you were a Federalist!' To this Judge Underwood replied : 'In those times there were but two par- ties in this country :- Federalists and fools. I was a Federalist and I never heard you, sir, accused of being one.'"
The following story is told of the elder Underwood :
"Cooahullie Creek, near Dalton, was swollen from rains and Judge Under- wood and other lawyers were trying to reach a courthouse on the opposite side in buggies. The Judge hauled up in front and was urged on by his companions. He answered, 'No, it is appointed unto man once to die, but it shall never be said of Wm. H. Under- wood that he was drowned in Cooa- hullie Creek.' "
John T. Boifeuillet, of Macon, relates the following :
"In these prohibition times of court trials of liquor violations it may be apropos to tell of an incident that hap- pened when Judge J. W. H. Underwood, the celebrated Georgia wit, was on the Superior Court bench. Certain temperance regulations were in ex- istence. In the hearing of a liquor case the defendant said he sold the whisky on doctor's prescription, which he was at the time holding in his hand. 'Let me see that paper,' said the judge. It was handed to him, and he read it aloud from the bench.
"'Let the bearer have one quart of whisky for sickness.
'JOHN JOHNSON, M. D.'
"'Yes,' said the judge, 'M. D. in the morning means 'mighty dry,' and in the evening, 'mighty drunk.' "
The following incident is related by Henry Peeples, Atlanta attorney:
"The Tariff Commission appointed to visit the various sections of the country and report on the tariff work-
ings came to Atlanta and sent out in- vitations asking any one interested to meet with them and point out unjust discriminations as they saw them. Judge J. W. H. Underwood was a mem- ber of the commission. When the board assembled in the convention hall of the Kimball House they were greet- ed by a single man, come to talk over the tariff. For two hours or more he fired question after question at the tariff experts, turned the ‘evidence meeting' into a debate between himself and the board and showed those gen- tlemen just what the situation was in the South.
"'What is your name?' asked the commission of the young man.
"'I am Woodrow Wilson, a lawyer,' he answered.
"Mr. Wilson was a practicing attor- ney in Atlanta at the time of the visit of the commission, having been there possibly two years.
"Judge Underwood's wit was caustic at times. He once made the follow- ing statement to which many persons may agree: 'Debt and death sound very much alike, and there is but lit- tie difference between theni.'"
UNDERWOOD'S FIRST
FEE .- Mrs. Florence Underwood Eastman re- lates how her father, the late Judge Jno. W. H. Underwood, won his first "legal fee." Her grandfather, Judge Wm. H. Underwood, had been commis- sioned by John Ross to attend to legal matters connected with the removal of the Cherokee Indians westward. About the same time, Rev. Jno. F. Schermer- horn, of Utica, N. Y., was sent to Rome by the government as removal commissioner. A big pow-wow was held at the home of John Ridge, Cher- okee Indian, at "Running Waters." Near here the Cherokees held their Green Corn dances, at which the In- dians would gather from miles around, pin corn shuck aprons around their waists, and tie shells containing peb- bles around their ankles and dance for hours.
Mr. Schermerhorn and Judge Wm. H. Underwood opened the meeting July 19, 1835, and were preparing for a continuation of the pow-wow at New Echota (New Town), Gordon County, north of Calhoun, where the treaty was finally to be signed (it was signed Dec. 29, 1835), and there was much "paper work" to be done. Judge Underwood and Mr. Schermerhorn pitched into the work. The Judge's son, John, was waiting nearby, watch- ing. "Why couldn't we put the lad to
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work?" inquired Mr. Schermerhorn. 'Try him," suggested the father.
Young John caught on readily, work- ed all night, and next morning Mr. Schermerhorn handed him $50. "Not bad for a starter in legal business!" chuckled young Underwood,
as he crammed the bill down into his jeans and ran home .- Jan. 19, 1921. *
A PEN PICTURE OF ROME .*_ (H. W. Johnstone, in the Rome Trib- une Jan. 26, 1907) :
"The man looks back on what the boy saw with his eager eyes before the Civil War. Among the boy's earliest recollections is a group around the old courthouse at court (East First) and Bridge Streets (Fifth Avenue), and the building itself, with its white medallions and red gables reminded him that here was a civilizing outpost in North Georgia which kept watch over the destinies of mankind.
"The corner opposite the courthouse building was a two-story affair with a wide veranda across the front.
"Down the hill from the courthouse on the west side of Broad Street was a two-story hotel known as the 'Amer- ican House,' with a wide veranda across the front. The postoffice was in this building at one time.
"South of this were the stores of Sanders, Sullivan, the two Ombergs, Henry Smith and R. S. Norton. The first brick store in this block was erected by Sanders, and is now oc- cupied by a hardware house.
"This store, and the yard in its rear, was the scene of an escapade of which the boy may tell you later. It was so near a tragedy that he never divulged his knowledge of it for twen- ty years !
"On the corner below Norton's was Miles and Riley Johnson's, then came Wimpee's shop, and White's har- ness store, which stood about where Todd's grocery now is. Thence it was vacant (being low and often ponded), with a bridge walk built several feet above ground to where Lanham's store stands. Here stood the 'Wells Hotel,' and in rear of this was a small frame building, Miss Liz- zie Smith's school.
"Farther down Broad Street were other business houses, among them A. M. Sloan's, which stood about where W. H. Coker is now located. Thence it was low and swampy to Oostanaula and Etowah Rivers, the only building
being the Rome Railroad depot, which was also used by the boats. This was located about where the Central depot now is. It was an ordinary 'up and down' frame house raised several feet upon piling. The vacant space, sev- eral acres, was the 'circus ground.' It was covered with grass and in wet seasons a pond was near the depot.
"At the foot of Broad Street the new bridge connected Rome with 'Lick Skillet' hills, now South Rome. On these hills the stage driver always winded his bugle as signal for pas- sengers and mail.
"Crossing Broad Street at the depot, and coming north, the first building he remembers was the Ketcham House, on the ground now occupied by the Taylor-Norton Drug Co. Back of this was a field, and where Second Avenue now enters Broad Street was a gate, thence along Broad Street was a fence to where J. J. Cohen's store stood- about where Fahy's now is. Thence to Fourth Avenue was vacant.
"The rear of Rounsaville's ware- house covers a spring, the branch from it flowed through Douglas' stable lot, crossed Broad Street, formed a 'pond' and went through a deep ravine into Oostanaula River where Third Avenue ends.
"Hardin & Smyer were on the cor- ner of Fourth Avenue, then came Johnson & Gwyn, next was Fried's, then vacant lots to the Choice House. About 1852 Wm. Ramey established the first livery stable on the site of the present Masonic Temple. A year later Win. C. G. Johnstone built a ve- hicle repository where Kay's stable is and a large brick warehouse on the present Baptist church lot.
"Wm. R. Smith's 'Continental Shop' was on the corner above the Choice House. Immediately fronting this was DeJournett's, a two-story frame struct- ure. In the upper story of this build- ing the first Masonic lodge was insti- tuted. Later, under the lead of Wm. Choice, Arm. Harper, 'Billie' Ross, and others, it became 'Thespian Hall.' This was used for theatrical performances and school exhibitions. Across the years the boy can still hear the voice of Billy Hills addressing the 'Conscript Fathers.' The ringing in- quiry of Cooper Nesbit, 'Why is the Forum Crowded? What means this stir in Rome?' And the eloquent Jack Hutchings assuring us that he 'came to bury Caesar, not to praise him!'
"Some of the little boys of those days are with us still. I am sure
*The scene goes back to 1856.
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Charlie H. could again entrance us with the 'Sailor Boy's Dream,' and Dolph R. could tell us of that dis- astrous 'Smacking in the District School, not far away.'
"Memory fixes no residences south of Fourth Avenue and east of Second Street, except Cooley's, and one or two near the present site of the Baptist church.
"From Third Street east, to the river, and south of Fourth Avenue, nearly to Second Avenue, was the fin- est grove of oaks he ever saw. A few of these trees were standing near East Fourth street lately. This was known as 'The Grove,' sacred to political bar- becues, and Cupid's delightful arch- ery.
"Between Fourth and Fifth Avenues on the east side of Third Street were two residences facing west, their broad lots extending back to the Etowah river. Fronting these residences, and extending over the hill to the court- house, was nearly all a grove of field pines. The only residences on this space were Callahan's, where the Episcopal church now is, Duke's, on southeast corner, and Wm. C. G. John- stone's near the crest, just back of the courthouse.
"On the crest of the hill stood the academy, a long one-story, two-room brick building, its west entrance guarded by an enormous gnarled chestnut tree. If memory is true, this academy was built by subscription under the auspices of S. J. Stevens. While it was being erected Mr. Ste- vens' school was located on a mound just beyond the Shropshire residence -all woods then-now Forrestville.
"About 1853 Mr. Stevens built an academy in the valley between the residence of Major Ross and Reece's spring. This academy was a two- story frame structure. A long stair- way, built outside, gave entrance to the upper school room. This build- ing was burned a few years later. At this school the boy first knew Dick Cothran, Button and Ike Hume, Billie Ross, Tom Berrien, Wm. Hills, Wm. Tuggle, Jack Hutchings and Cooper Nesbit, and among the small lads were George C. Douglas, son of Dr. George B. Douglas, 'Randy' Mitchell, Sam Lumpkin, Thomas Cuyler, T. J. Ver- dery (whose home was the old resi- dence of Major Ridge, chief of the Cherokees, which stood, and remains on Oostanaula River above Battey's Shoals). Henry Stovall rode his pony to school from his home on the Sum-
merville road, where Mr. Brown now resides-just beyond the
old Asa Smith home-now Willingham's.
"The second principal at the Rome Academy was P. M. Sheibley, then a young man of fine appearance and pleasing manners. He was a finish- ed scholar, a firm, competent teacher. His pupils owe to him more than can be expressed here. At this school the boy first knew C. M. Harper, Dolph Rounsaville, John and 'Scrap' Black, Tyler Mobley, and that fine youth who was drowned in the Oostanaula, Albert Jones.
"On the corner of Seventh Avenue stood Simpson's cabinet shop, where sash, doors and blinds were first made in Rome. West of this, on the emi- nence, stood the residence of R. S. Norton. What a home-maker he was, what a character builder! His sons were often welcome visitors at the homes of the boy's father and paternal grandfather. No finer gentleman ever tinted the 'grey' with the ultimate sacrifice than did Charles Norton ! Two of the great marts of the Central West and the iron metropolis of the South feel the impress of R. S. Nor- ton's character, through his living sons. His life-work was a benediction to this city! Even the flowers bloomed rapt- urously in tribute to his gentleness and care!
"Probably the oldest hotel in Rome stood on the corner of Eighth Ave- nue. It was constructed of hewn tim- bers, drawn shingles, split lathes and plaster. On a medallion sign, swing- ing over the road, was the legend, 'Travelers' Rest-John Quinn.'
"Across Broad Street, fronting 'Travelers' Rest,' was the residence of Judge Nathan Yarbrough. Nestling far back in a shaded yard on south- west corner of Ninth Avenue was the home of Dr. Vernon, whose daughter, Helen, was the first 'belle' the boy re- members, but on the next corner above was a yardfull, where Hon. J. W. H. Underwood resided.
"North of this, extending to the brick residence of Daniel R. Mitchell, located about where John Davis now resides, was a forest of oaks and pop- lars, enclosing Mitchell's Pond, fit to be 'God's first temples.'
"The square as now bounded by First and Second Streets, Fifth and Sixth Avenues, was a deep ravine, then heavily wooded. On its southwest cor- ner was the Episcopal church, on the northeast was the Methodist 'meeting house.' In the bottom of the ravine
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stood the old gaol, built of logs, and the windows strongly grated. Near the gaol was a spring which flowed down the ravine, across Sixth Ave- nue and Broad Street and into the Oostanaula.
"Ah! what memories-from boy to man !"
(Mar. 24, 1907.)
The DeSoto chronicles describe the location of the Cherokee capital vil- lage as being on a long island-and, according to the Indian legends, the Oostanaula must have divided near Battey's Shoals, the "cut off" passing near the east foot of the Hills o'Ross across the bottom under the present Central railroad trestle to the Coosa. There are indications of this old course even now. Many changes of this nature could, and have, come in the 365 years since DeSoto passed.
Let us go back to the early "fifties" and meet some of the old citizens.
That tall man walking this way is Col. Pennington; he believes in rail- roads and steamboats. He always carries that cane and umbrella, but never uses either.
Notice that nervous, quick moving man meeting him. He has a habit of bringing his hand to his waist, then swings it out as if to brush you aside, but Thomas Perry is a fine man "for a' that."
That portly gentleman walking up the terrace is Judge Lumpkin. He had that mansion built in 1843. He is big hearted, broad minded and de- serves his great popularity. You see John Quinn has changed his sign from "Travelers' Rest" to "Cross Keys Ho- tel," and, you can buy ginger cakes from Mother Quinn-in the cellar.
That's Mr. Lamkin's grocery store next to the Choice House. Just be- low it is A. M. Lamb's candy store, ad- joining Tom Perry's store, only a plank partition separates them.
That's Jimmie Lee, he owns the fish traps above the ford on the "High- tower." He is the same fellow who nearly drowned Will Adkins.
That flowered silk dress designates Mrs. Sholes. She watches Jimmie's "traps" and tells on every boy she sees near them. None of the boys like her. The boys and girls do not like that fancy dressed man with her-for he trades in negroes-his name is Jo- seph Norris.
Look out for that short, stout, keen- eyed man with the "big stick." He is the town marshal, Samuel Stewart. That enormous creature following at his heels is "Wolf"-his terrible hound. He never failed to catch boys who did any devilment-but once! Sometime I may tell you of that "once."
That gentleman with the Alsatian face-who talks with his hands-is one of God's helpers in beautifying the earth. We should not forget Dr. Berckmans.
You will notice that Robt. T. Mc- Cay's* hardware store is on that cor- ner, the first hardware store in Rome. That stocky, earnest-faced man talking to McCay is an Englishman who is introducing the iron industry in Rome -Mr. Noble.
Those six men sitting on the veranda of the Choice House are more or less politicians, yet each one has an inter- esting history.
The tallest one with the smooth strong Scotch face is the "Iron King" of Georgia, Mark A. Cooper, a visitor. Next to him is Augustus R. Wright, a Congressman, a great lawyer and an impassioned forensic orator. His gifts have descended, in good measure, to his sons. The tall, clean faced man with the cane is James M. Spullock, one of the finest fingered politicians in the state. He is the man who as United States Marshal for Georgia seized the yacht "Wanderer" and sold her as a condemned "slaver." The "Wanderer" was Charles B. Lamar's private yacht-she was chartered by a party of Northern men to make a cruise. She returned to Savannah loaded with African slaves, was captured, con- demned and sold. Her owner, Lamar, was exonerated from all blame, but lost his yacht. The Northern men who made the cruise escaped to New York. This is the nearest the South ever became interested in "slave trade." Most of these Africans were seized and returned to their country.
That stout, jolly gentleman was later a captain under Forrest. His
memory will abide principally be- cause he was Henry W. Grady's uncle -Henry A. Gartrell.
The brown-eyed gentleman with black hair and moustache-so erect in carriage-and earnest in manner, was the first Mayor of Rome (the only public office he ever held-except the Confederate marshalship of Georgia). He was appointed Colonel of a regi- ment of a Partisan Rangers, but was induced to resign it and head the com-
*Father of L. W. McCay, professor of chem- istry at Princeton University and native Roman.
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A HISTORY OF ROME AND FLOYD COUNTY
5
8
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G:
STEAMBOATS AND THEIR HARDY "SKIPPERS."
1-The John J. Seay; 2-The Clifford B. Seay; 3-Capt. F. M. Coulter, who built a dozen boats; 4-The Mitchell; 5-Tom V. Marable; 6-The Magnolia, probably the finest steamer on the river; 7-The Alabama; 8-The Gadsden; 9-Capt. Frank Benjamin; 10-Capt. J. M. Elliott; 11-The Resaca, with hunting party and game; 12-The Annie H. in a calm sea. All these vessels succumbed to gales, financial or otherwise.
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pany which produced salt for the poor of the state, during the war between the states. He is Wni. C. G. Johnstone (known familiarly as "Black Wm. Johnstone").
The last of the group, who appears so elegantly at ease, could claim dis- tinction in science, politics and liter- ature. He was a physician, a United States Senator, an author of note and an orator of exceptional power. During the war of 1812-15, two young men became close comrades and friends. When they parted it was agreed that their sons should bear the same names. Both were scholars and curiously they selected the names of the great poets. Time passed. Major Clem Powers, of Effingham County, named his three sens Homer, Virgil and Milton. Some years later he named his fourth son Horace.
Meantime his friend had one son born to him, and he was named Homer Virgil Milton Miller. The second wife of Wm. C. G. Johnstone was a daugh- ter of Major Clem Powers, and her meeting with Dr. Miller is a vivid memory.
Picture-Lumpkin, Hamilton, Mil- ler, Wright, Battey, Underwood, Smith ("Bill Arp"), Spullock, with their ladies at our hospitable board-with Gartrell to fire the train-and you can imagine how humor flowed, wit spar- kled, whether the subject be politics or literature-and remember, litera- ture was mostly the "leather-bound" classics, also that the ladies often bore the palms.
I do not say such people are not with us. But somehow I do not meet them. I may be "out of date"-but I enjoy recalling the days when hon- or was kept bright-a mortgage was a curiosity-and slander dared not touch a woman! But I digress-yet I warned you that this-
"Might, perhaps, turn out a song; Perhaps turn out a sermon!"
Let us again go up the river. We will pass the service cottage erected by Dr. George Battey, "When you and I were young," and stop by those large trees about an hundred paces anent the old Ridge house. I hope the old trees are yet there.
The Ridge house was then occupied by Mr. Verdery, one of whose daugh- ters married Warren Akin; another married Dr. George Battey. The fam- ily moved to Polk County, thence to Augusta, Ga.
Under these trees (near the Ridge house) was located the earliest and largest store in this section of Geor- gia-if not in the whole Cherokee country. It was operated in the name of George M. Lavender, Major Ridge (the chief) being a silent partner. An immense business was transacted and the owners grew very rich. The busi- ness was closed about 1837 and in the division Lavender received a large amount in money and property, esti- mated by some to have been more than a quarter of a million dollars. George Lavender never married. His estate passed to his sisters, one of whom married Ray, whose descendants live about Newnan and Atlanta. Another sister, Edith Lavender, resided on an eminence east of the present North Rome depot. She remained unmar- ried until about 1847, when a man appeared to take the contract to grade the Rome Railroad. This was Joseph Printup. He secured the contract, but had not the means to operate success- fully. Edith Lavender fell in love with the enterprising stranger, mar- ried him, and her money enabled him to make his venture a success.
Joseph assisted his brother, Daniel S. Printup, through Union college, New York, and located him here, where his family remain. Major Joseph Printup had no children. Many years ago he was drowned in an insignifi- cant branch near his home. His prop- erty, including the "Printup Ferry" es- tate in Gordon County, passed to the children of Daniel S. Printup.
Dr. Reece, the father of John H. and James Reece, was a delicate gen- tleman who was surgeon of the regi- ment of state troops sent here to re- move the Cherokees to the banks of the Tennessee. Miles Reece, an unele of Capt. John Reece, came to Cher- okee before his brother. He became intimately conversant with legends and affairs of the Cherokees, and was an encyclopedia of Indian lore.
An anecdote of Chief Ridge will serve to show how Indian traits clung to him.
John Ridge, a son of Major Ridge, resided in Ridge's Valley. Chief Ridge had a handsome daughter; educated, proud and given more or less to van- ity. She induced her father to order her a fine coach. It was sent from New York and created a sensation. It was hung on leather swings at- tached to large "C" springs, the driver's seat being on top.
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