USA > Iowa > Dickinson County > History of Dickinson County, Iowa, together with an account of the Spirit Lake massacre, and the Indian troubles on the northwestern frontier > Part 1
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History Dickinson County,
1900
Class
FOZj
Book
Copyright N.º.
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
٠
yours Jenly Rtsmith
A HISTORY
OF
ickinson
County, Iowa
TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
The Spirit Lake Massacre, and the Indian Troubles on the Northwestern Frontier.
ILLUSTRATED
BY R. A. SMITH
Des Moines : The Kenyon Printing & Mfg. Co. MDCCCCII
F627 I 556 Copy 2
THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS,
Two Copies Received JUL 16 1903 Copyright Entry July 2- 1903 ČLASS a Xo. No. 63203 COPY A.
Entered according to Act of Congress in the Year 1902, by R. A. SMITH, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
2-21008
INTRODUCTION.
There has for some time existed a feeling that a connected account of the Indian trouble on the northwestern border of Iowa should be given to the public, or rather that what facts are preserved should be so grouped that a person reading them could form a reasonably intelligent idea of them. Any person fol- lowing this line of investigation will soon come face to face with the fact that the sources of information are extremely limited. The writer has endeavored to give as correct and con- cise an idea of the points treated as was possible under the cir- cumstances, and it seems appropriate to combine them with the early history of Dickinson County, inasmuch as that was the storm center around which, so far as Iowa is concerned, these events seemed to culminate.
In doing this work he has quoted freely from such sources as were accessible and known to be reliable, and notably so from the writings of Hon. C. E. Flandrau, Hon. Harvey Ing- ham, Hon. A. R. Fulton and Mrs. Abbie Gardner Sharp, giv- ing at all times the proper credit. The writer was a member of the Relief Expedition in 1857, and assisted in burying the victims of the massaere at that time, and much of what is written in that regard came under his own personal observa- tion. He was also a member of the first party that effected a settlement subsequent to the massacre and nas given those events as nearly correct as he can remember them after the lapse of near half a century.
Many will remember that in the centennial year Governor Kirkwood recommended that the several counties procure a sum- mary or synopsis of their pioneer history, and to the writer here- with was assigned the task of preparing one for Dickinson County. The article was published in the Spirit Lake Beacon
147
CHAPTER XII
Effect of the Massacre Elsewhere-Attraction of Emigrants-The Howe and Wheelock Party-J. S. Prescott and His Party-Geo. E. Spencer and the Newton Party
CHAPTER XIII
152
The Three Parties-The Trip to the Lakes-Taking Claims-The Claims of the Victims of the Massacre-A Wrong Impression Cor- rected-Granger and the Red Wing Party-Prescott's Visionary Scheme The Spirit Lake Town Site Located-The Old Fort-The First Religious Meeting-Mode of Living
CHAPTER XIV.
166
Naming the Lakes-Organizing the County-llill's Trip to Sioux City to Obtain the Order for the Election-The Election Held- Officers Elected-Carrying in the Returns-The Boom-The Panic- Its Effect on the Settlement-The First Sawmill-The First Family After the Massacre-Peters and the Old Red Mill-The General Election
CHAPTER XV. 185
The Spirit Lake Claim Club-The First Postoffice-The First Mail Route-Torson's Wonderful Feat-Postoffice at Okoboji-The First Funeral-The First White Child Born in the Emigration in 1858- Farming-The Ravages of the Blackbirds
CHAPTER XVI
196
Disagreements and Jealousies-The Troops Ordered Back to the Lakes-John Campbell and His Band of Indians-Two Recognized as Members of Inkpadutah's Band-Are Arrested But Make Their Escape-Campbell Tried and Ilung for Murder at Mankato-"Bad Ifall" and His Band-Indian Medical Practice-Quarrel Over the Steam Mill-Attempt to Replevin the Logs-A Fight Prevented by An Unlooked-For Circumstance-Umpashota and Ilis Band
209
CHAPTER XVII
Emigration in 1859- The Government Surveys Completed - The Homestead Law-The First Physician-The First Marriage Ceremony The M. E. Church - Rev. Cornelius McLean - His Successor - The Circuit -The First Singing School - Special Election for Disposing of the Swamp Land - A Brief Review of the Swamp Land Question - Building the Courthouse and Two Bridges-Subsequent Bridges on the Same Sites
CHAPTER XVIII
225
Discouraging Circumstances-Apprehensions of Indian Troubles- Measures For Defense-The Minutemen-Last Hostile Indian Killed in Iowa-The Townships-County Government-The First Board of Supervisors-The Breaking Out of the War-The Call for Troops- Heavy Enlistments-Renewed Apprehensions of Indian Troubles- Governor Kirkwood Appoints Judge Baldwin to Look After Fron. tier Defense
CHAPTER XIX .
237
The Minnesota Massacre-How It Began-Ambush of Captain Marsh-The Battles of Fort Ridgley and New Ulm-The Indian Dread of Artillery-Colonel Sibley Placed in Command-The Bat- tle of Birch Coulee The Prisoners-Sibley's Effort to Get Them Without Fighting a Fallure-Battle of Wood Lake-Sibley Makes Another Demand for the Prisoners-Iudlans Divided-The Larger Party With the Prisoners Surrender at Camp Release-Little Crow With His Band Escapes Up the River-Little Crow Ventures to the Settlement the Following Year and is Killed-The Indian Pris- oners Tried by a Military Commission and Three Hundred and Three Sentenced to be Hung-President Lincoln Interferes-Orders Thirty-nine of the Leaders Hung
CHAPTER XX
250
Events in Iowa-The Massacre Along the Des Moines-The Relief Party-Appeal for Government Protection-The Sioux City Car- alry-The Week at the Old Courthouse-Building the Stockade
CHAPTER XXI.
263
Governor Kirkwood Takes Deep Interest in Frontier Matters- Sends Colonel Ingham to the Frontier-His Report-The Legisla- ture Called in Special Session-The First Bill Passed Provides for the Northern Border Brigade-Joint Resolution Asking Govern- ment Protection-Organization of the Northern Border Brigade --- Colonel Sawyers Placed in Command-Governor Kirkwood Appoints Ilonorable George L. Davenport to Collect Information-His Ro- port-Speculations as to the Cause of the Outbreak-Opinions by Itonorable George I. Davenport-General Sully-Judge Flandran and Others
2275
CHAPTER XXII
Expeditions Against the Indians-Sully's Expedition-His Force Leaves Sioux City and Follow Up the Missourl-Expect to Form a Junction With Sibley's Forces at Apple River-Ou Arriving There Find Sibley Has Been There and Turned Back-Battle of White Stone Ilill-The Return to Sioux City-Sibley's Command- Move Across Minnesota-Fight Three Battles Before Reaching the Missouri-On Reaching the Missouri Find That Sully Ilas Not Yet Arrived-Rest Two Days and Then Turn Back-The Expeditions of 1864
CHAPTER XXIII 287
Close of Military Operations on the Frontier-A Summary-The Fur Business-Trapping and Gathering Fur-Early Literary So- cietles-The Okoboji Literary League-The "Legend of Spirit Lake "
CHAPTER XXIV
301
Causes Delaying Emigration-A Perlod of Dulluess-The Early Work of the Methodist Episcopal Church-The Early Preachers- The First Camp Meeting-The First Religious Revival-The Fear- fui Storms-Blizzards-Who Coined the Word-A Description From the "Great Divide"-A Few Experiences-A Romantic Wedding Trip.
CHAPTER XXV .. 317
The Settlement at Lakeville in 1866-The First After the Close of the War-The Wet Summer-High Prices for Provisions-The First Settlers in the Other Towns-The Fuel Question-Burning Hay- Burning Corn-The Sod Shanty
CHAPTER XXVI 330
The Sioux City & St. Paul Railroad-The Building of the Milford Mills-Several Controversies-The Level of the Water in the Lakes-The Courthouse Burned
CHAPTER XXVII
341
A Period of Prosperity-Postoffice at Lakeville and Lake Park- The Grasshopper Raid of 1873-Where They Came From-Views of D. A. W. Perkins-Their Depredations-Extract from J. A. Smith's Pamphlet-The Seed Grain Question-The Legislature Appealed To -They Appropriate $50,000 to Buy Seed Grain-Commissioners for Distribution
CHAPTER XXVIII 349
The Second Invasion-The Destruction Greater Than Ever-Whole Neighborhoods Abandoned-Extract From Governor Carpenter's Article in "The Annals"-Grasshoppers Block Railroad Trains- General N. B. Baker-His Efforts in Behalf of Grasshopper Suf- ferers Impair His Health-His Visit To Spirit Lake
CHAPTER XXIX. 360
The Early Schools-Lack of Funds-Amusing Incident Related by Ilon. A. W. Hubbard-The First School at Spirit Lake-The Court- house Used for School Purposes-The Early Teachers-The First School at Center Grove-The Little Log Schoolhouse Built by Sub- scription-The Early Teachers-The School at Okoboji-The School Building Erected by Subscription-The School at Tusculum-The Dickinson County Teachers' Association-The Early Institutes CHAPTER XXX. 369
The Need of a Railroad-Local Schemes-The Spirit Lake & Sioux Valley Railroad Company Organized-Survey Made-Ald Voted- The Scheme a Fallure-The Chieago, Milwaukee & St. Paul In- duced to Make a Survey-The Chicago & Northwestern-The Buri- ington, Cedar Rapids & Northern the First to Build in the County -J. S. Polk and the Narrow Gange
CHAPTER XXXI 376
Disappearance of the Game-The Last Buffalo Killed in lowa- "Hegira of the Elk"-Extract From a Paper Written by J. A. Smith for the Midland Monthly-The Deer -"Bob-Cats "
CHAPTER XXXII 350
Early Fishing-The Supply Begins to DIminish-Measures Adopted for Their Protection-The Fish Hatchery at Anamosa-Branch at Spirit Lake-The State Hatchery Moved to the Lnkes-It Is In- juriously Affected by Both High and Low Water and is Finally Abandoned-Legislativo Restrictions-Fish Shanties Prohibited CHAPTER XXXIII 396
Early Boating-The First Sailboats-The First Regatta-A Lucky Accident-Other Boat Races-The Yacht Club-A Narrow Escape- The First Steamers-The Favorite and Alpha-Larger Steamers Demanded-The Hiawatha-The Ben Lennox and the Queen
413
CHAPTER XXXIV
The Town of Spirit Lake-Selection of the Site-Arrival of the First Families-The Four Women Who Wintered Here the First Winter-The First Buildings-The Old Fort Used as a Hotel-The First Frame Houses-The First Social Events-An Old Fashioned Fourth of July Celebration-The First General Store-The First Hotel-How the Title to the Town Site Was Obtained-The Enter- prise Abandoned by the Original Promoters and the Land Proved Up as a Private Claim-Life in the Town During the War
CHAPTER XXXV. 429
Spirit Lake Town Continued-The Early Merchants-The Early Business Houses Generally-The Beacon Block-The New Cran- dall House The Coming of the Railroads-The Roller Skate Craze -Incorporation of the Town-The First Officers-The New Court- house-The First Brick Buildings-The Stevens Block-The Elec- tric Lights-A. M. Johnson's Store-The Roller Mill-The Cold Storage Plant
CHAPTER XXXVI
442
The Spirit Lake Postoffice-Postmasters-The Spirit Lake Beacon, The Pioneer Newspaper-The Early Advertisers-Early History of the Paper by J. A. Smith-Its Subsequent History-Other Ventures in the Newspaper Line-The Dickinson County Journal-The Spirit Lake Democrat-"Huckleberry's Paper"-The Spirit Lake Pllot- The Dickinson County Herald-Civic Societies
CHAPTER XXXVII
458
The Early Churches-M. E. Pastors-Baptists-First Church Build- ing in the County-Rev. J. L. Coppoc-Subsequent Pastors-Con- gregationalists-Lutherans-The Catholics-The Evergreen Sabbath School-Spirit Lake Musical Association-The Pioneer Cornet Band -The Pioneer Girls' Club-The Spirit Lake Chantauqua
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Milford, its Location-The First Settlement of Milford and Oko- boji Townships-The Old Town-The First Hotels and Stores- Early Entertainments-The Milford Library Association-Amateur Theatricals-The Milford Dancing School-The Early Churches- The Work of Rev. J. R. Upton-The Building of the Railroad Forces the Moving of the Town
CHAPTER XXXIX
495
Lake Park, Superior and Terrill-Silver Lake Township. a Little of Its Early History-The Early Schools-The First Postoffice- Early Religions Meetings-The Coming of the Railroad-The Town of Lake Park-The First Business Houses and Enterprises-The Lake Park News-Churches-Civic Societies-Postoffice-Incorpora- tion of the Town-Mayors-Present Officers-Superior-The Town Started by the Railroad Company-First Postoffice-The First Business Ventures-Postoffice-Incorporation-Officers-The De- structive Fire of 1897-Terrill-Carpenter's Wild Railroad Scheme
CHAPTER XL
The Early Summer Tourists-Limited Accommodations-A Brief Description of the Lakes-Extract From Geological Report-The Early Stopping Places-Crandall's Lodge-Lillywhite's Lodge- Other Early Stopping Places-The Orleans Hotel
CHAPTER XLI
Resorts on West Okoboji-Arnold's Park-Its Growth-Variety of Entertainment-The Annual Shooting Tournament-Miller's Bay- The Popular Fishing Ground-The Observatory-The Highest Land in Towa-What Professor McBride Says of It-Smith's Point-Oko- bojl Bridge-Some of the Early Visitors-The Botany Class of the State University-The Okoboji Postoffice-The Later Resorts on West Okoboji 555
CHAPTER XLUI.
Farmers' Organizations-The Dickinson County Agricultural So- ciety-The Grange-The Farmers' Alliance-Farmers' Institutes- The Dickinson County .Farmers' Mutual Insurance Company-A Few Statistics of the Growth of the County-A Full List of the County Officers to the Present Time-State and District Officers Elected and Appointed From This County
CHAPTER XLIII
564
The Monument-Legislation Relating to It-Commissioners Ap- pointed-They Organize-Ex-Governor Carpenter Made President- Contract Awarded to P. N. Peterson Company of St. Paul, Minne- sota-Monument Completed-Report of Commissioners-Dedication of Monument-Addresses by R. A. Smith, Hon. C. E. Flandran, of St. Paul. Hon. C. C. Carpenter, Lieutenant Governor Dungan. Secretary Richards and Others 582
CHAPTER XLIV
Conelnslon
476
516
527
CHAPTER I.
DICKINSON COUNTY-LOCATION AND PHYSICAL FEATURES- THE LAKES-INDIANS OF IOWA REP- RESENT TWO DISTINCT RACES-ALGONQUINS AND DACOTAHIS -- ALGONQUIN TRIBES, SACS AND FOXES. POTTAWATTAMIES, ILLINOIS AND MUSCATINES- DAACOTAH TRIBES, JOWAS, OMHAS, WINNEBAGOS AND SIOUX-THE NEUTRAL LINE-THE NEUTRAL GROUND-TREATIES-THE TREATY FOR THE PUR- CHASE OF NORTHWESTERN IOWA.
ICKINSON COUNTY is the third county in the state from the west line and in the north tier of counties bor- dering on the Minnesota line. It is twenty-four miles in length east and west, and nearly seventeen miles in width north and south, and therefore embraces an area of about four hundred square miles, about eight per cent of which is covered with lakes.
It is the most elevated county in the state as it lies on the "height of land" or great water shed between the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers and is drained by the upper branches of both the upper Des Moines and Little Sioux Rivers, which empty respectively into each of the before named streams. Its altitude is about seventeen hundred feet above tide water. The marked physical feature which distinguishes Dickinson from the other counties of northwestern Towa is her numerous lakes. First and last, many descriptions of these lakes have been written up and published, but by far the most interesting and read- able is that contained in Prof. T. II. MacBride's report. on the geology of Dickinson and Osceola Counties. Writing on this subject he says :
10
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
"The lakes of our region lie almost all in Dickinson County. Not that Osceola is destitute of similar topographic features, but for some reason the peculiar conditions that resulted in lakes of size were developed farther east. * * * But in Dickin- son County the lakes are the features of the topography, many of them deep enough to promise permanency, and several so large as to have long attracted popular attention by their beautiful blue waters and the charming outlines of their shores. Minne Waukon or Spirit Lake, is as we have seen, historic, nay, is it not prehistoric ? Even for the red man these beautiful gens of the prairie had name and fame. He hung them around with legends of his own and named them in his own poetic, mystic fashion. Okoboji, place of rest; Minnetonka, great water : Minne Waukon, lake of demons, lac d'esprits, were every one apparently familiar to all the tribes and nations of the Sioux, and were doubtless known by name at least to all the eighteenth- century trappers and voyageurs. Okoboji, evidently distin- guished by the red man, was by white explorers generally reckoned part of Spirit Lake, and is so entered on the earlier maps. The two bodies are in fact part of a remarkable system extending in chain-like fashion for twenty miles or more in Iowa and probably almost as far in Minnesota. Nevertheless, the greater lakes have now no natural connection with each other ; they are in general quite unlike and have, in some details at least, a different geological history. In all cases the water level seems dependent entirely upon rainfall. The few springs discoverable are small and insignificant, while of affluent streams there are practically none; none at least that bring in perennial waters. The overflow of the Minnesota lakes, it is elaimed, reaches our Spirit Lake, and certain smaller lakes to the west and north are also on occasion tributary. But all the lakes, whether in Towa or Minnesota, are subject to sim- ilar fortune. In rainy seasons full, they send their waters to the common outlet; in drier years there is no surplus and the outlet fails. In fact the lakes are each and all simply great pools left on the surface by the retreating glacier, mark- ing points where the ice was somewhat thicker or the amount of detritus carried somewhat less abundant. They owe not their existence to erosion ; no recent change of level has formed an ontlet for their waters: such as they are, such were they when the latest geologie epoch closed. The present form and con- (lition of the outlet would not suggest that the principal lakes,
11
THE LAKES - PROF. MC BRIDE
at least, have ever been much deeper than at present. The outlet valley is largely constructional and while there has been erosion, considerable in the vicinity of Milford, still erosion has not in time past much affected the level of the lakes, does not at the present day seem to affect them at all. Those familiar with the situation for the last four or five decades assert that Spirit Lake had formerly a natural outlet south- ward. There is no sign of it at present. On the other hand the ont-thrust of the ice from winter to winter has tended to form a species of dyke almost entirely around the lake, espec- ially along its sandy beaches, and this alone would seem to have been sufficient to close up any connection, slight and shallow at best, between Spirit Lake and the waters south of it. At any rate there is along the south shore of Spirit Lake a pronounced terrace, which is natural and due to the causes mentioned. There are, however, evidences, chiefly afforded by terrace construction, that the water level in the lake has been higher in days gone by than now, perhaps ten feet higher. In such event there would be an overflow southward. Probably the level of the lake has oscillated through the centuries. With a succession of dry seasons the water would become so reduced that out-flow would cease entirely. The sand pushed up in winter by the ice would then form a dam higher and higher and which at length only a very considerable rise in the waters of the lake could surmount. Then probably some exceptionally rainy season would wash out the obstacle and again reduce the level of the lake, making possible again the construction of the dyke: In the maintenance of the barrier vegetation very much assisted. Today various aquatic plants hold the shallower parts of all the lakes in possession undisputed and greatly check the movements of their waters. In fact by reason of abundant vegetation many of the smaller lakes are now in danger of being completely filled. The plants, many of them rooted to the bottom. at once absolutely prevent erosion, and at the same time hold all solid matter coming in from what- ever source from withont. For this reason the general outlet of the system, the south end of the south Gar Lake, is not deepening, but seems to be actually rising year by year. But it is time we should describe the lakes more in detail.
"Minne Waukon or Spirit Lake, the largest body of water in lowa, occupies the greater part of the township of the same name. Its extreme length from north to south is a little more
12
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
-
VIEW ON SPIRIT LAKE.
than four miles, in Iowa. The extreme width is about the same, but owing to irregularity of contour the area is not more than ten square miles, while the circumference is nearly six- teen. The depth of the lake is said to be thirty feet ; the bot- tom, so far as can be learned, is ahnost even, so that from the deepest part to the shores the diminution in depth is remark- ably gradual. The shores are for the most part comparatively low, the water-line sandy, affording unlimited beach. Hard by on the west lie Marble Lake, Hottes Lake, and Little Spirit Lake, separated by only the shortest distance from the main body of water, but draining one into the other and north-at length, however, tributary to Spirit Lake. Those interested have in recent years eut a channel to bring Little Spirit Lake and its congeners into more direct communication with the larger water, apparently with small success. In dry years no lake has anything to spare. Strangest of all, in the middle of the series, in the south half of section 17, lies Sunken Lake, listant from Spirit Lake ouly a few rods, and parted from it by a wall of drift some twenty or thirty feet high and at its summit scarcely a rod in width. So abrupt are the shores and so peculiar the situation that common rumor asserts the lake a matter of recent formation ; some people even declare that so lately as twenty years ago trees stood where now the water is ten feet deep. The name Sunken Lake records the popular
13
SPIRIT LAKE
estimate and explanation of the remarkable phenomenon. It seems probable, however, that Sunken Lake is as old as any of the others, and while a most remarkable bit of topography, sufficiently wonderful to demand, even peremptorily demand, an explanation, yet is it quite in harmony with its entire sur- roundings, and not without parallel in many only less con- spicuous cases. For instance, on the east side of East Okoboji Lake, in the southwest quarter of Section 15, Center Grove town- ship, there are two small lakes even nearer the principal lake than in the case we have just considered and similarly walled off from the greater body of water by a pile of drift. Similar situations on a small seale may be pointed out in every part of Dickinson County. The only explanation is the uneven- ness of the lower surface of the ice-sheet which rested heres advanced no further, and as it melted retreating even farther and farther northward, left behind, perchance as blocks of ice, these pools of clear, fresh water. Sunken Lake may then
DRIVE BETWEEN SPIRIT LAKE AND SUNKEN LAKE.
14
DICKINSON COUNTY - IOWA
WEST OKOBOJI.
represent an ice bowlder; this seems more probable since its walls are steep, unbroken on every side.
"South of Spirit Lake lies Okoboji, in its two sections stretching somewhat in the form of the letter U, open to the north, partly in Center Grove, partly in Lakeville township. West Okoboji, which represents the western side of the U, lies almost wholly in Lakeville. This is by many estimated the most beautiful water in the series. Its greater depth, more picturesque winding shores give it some advantage over Minne Waukon, although the latter shows the greater expanse of water. West Okoboji Lake, or simply Okoboji, as it is com- monly called, extends nearly six miles in greatest length and almost three at the point of greatest breadth. The greater portion of the lake is, however, narrower, so that the total area does not exceed seven square miles, while its irregular con- tour measures nearly eighteen miles, as platted. The depth of the lake varies very much at different places and is variously reported. The bed of the lake probably resembles the topog- raphy of the adjacent country ; it has its hills and its valleys.
15
LAKE OKOBOJI
There seems no reason to doubt that there are many places where the depth is at least one hundred feet, but soundings of two or three times that depth are reported .*
"The shores of Okoboji are for the most part high walls of bowlder-clay and drift ; sandy beaches are less frequent. Every- where the erosion of the waves has shaped the shores, under- mining them and sorting their materials; the fine clays have been carried 'out to sea,' while the weighty bowklers are left behind every winter to be pushed up closer and closer by the ice, at length piled over one another in ramparts and walls, often riprapping the shore for long distances as if to simulate the work of civilized man. A beautiful illustration of this is seen along the southern shore of Lake East Okoboji, section 20. The less attentive observer would surely conclude that those stones were piled up by 'art and man's device,' a sea- wall to prevent further encroachments of the tide. At the southern end of Okoboji, near Gilley's Beach, is another fine
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