Des Moines and Polk County, Iowa, City Directory 1892, Part 16

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Publication date: 1892
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USA > Iowa > Polk County > Des Moines > Des Moines and Polk County, Iowa, City Directory 1892 > Part 16


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This account of the wonders of Lake county will close with a mention of the Blue Lakes, three in number, two thousand five hundred feet above the sea; twelve miles from Lakeport. | There is much tuggedness of scenery, alternating with quiet wood pictures of exceeding beauty.


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: CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS. -


AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.


AN FRANCISCO itself is a superb winter resort for residents of the Eastern cities; but as it has a fixed population of three hundred 'and fifty thousand, it unfortu- nately, under the common interpretation of the term "resort," cannot be so classed. Evidence, however, of the great charihr of its climate in winter is found in the fact that during those months which in the East are appropriately called "winter," San Francisco is always crowded with visitors. Apart from the strong and . generally unique character of its attractions as a city, - such as its wonderful system of cable roads, its lofty hills, whose slopes and summits are lined with attractive homes, the close neighborhood of the two charming cities, Oakland and Alameda, and the near popu- lar resorts, Sausalito and San Rafael, its beautiful land-locked harbor, its splendid park, with flowers in bloom throughout the year, --- it has such Attraction as an almost unbroken succession of bright days, a fine bracing air, a complete exemption from epidemic and


endemie diseases, and an energetic, virile population, whose zestful pur- suit of pleasure is a natural conse- quence of its prosperity and health. {The superb hotels and theatres of San Francisco are a marvel to the world ; and within a radius of a few miles from its VICINITY OF CLIFF HOUSE. borders are many of the most noted health and fashion resorts on the continent. One of the chief attractions in the immediate neighborhood of San Francisco is Mount Diablo, a noble peak which ; rises from the Coast Range, east of San Francisco, and about thirty miles distant in an air line. A delightful trip is to leave San Francisco in the morning, quit the railroad at Martinez, take a team for the mountain, make the ascent (an easily accomplished task, as : 'the road runs to the summit), and return to the city in the evening. The view from, the summit is indescribably beautiful. San Francisco, Oakland, Alameda, and dozens of other towns and cities, nestle closely on the ground far below ; and San Jose is visible in the distance. Far to the north and west are seen the show-crowned summits of the Sierra, with grand old Shasta overtopping them all. Directly east of. Mt, Diablo are the Byron Springs, noted for the medicinal virtues of their hot and cold sulphur, soda, iron and magnesia springs. They have also a natural hot mud bath, which has cured many a sufferer from rheumatic and other afflictions. Commodious bath-houses and good hotel accommodations are provided ; and they are open the year round. We leave the South- ern Pacific train at Byron station, some distance beyond Martinez, and take the stage|| thence two miles to the springs.


The Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Company is peculiarly favored, as it is the highway to some famous pleasure resorts. It runs, south from San Francisco to San Luis Obispo county, with short branches to Santa Cruz, the Hotel del Monte,


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CALIFORNIA . ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


Monterey, Pacific Grove and other resorts. Just south of San Francisco it passes through a number of beautiful towns that are particularly noted for being the country homer of San Francisco millionaires, including San Mateo, Belmont and Menlo Park. Through the forests of oak we catch a glimpse of the Stanford Junior University,; and there are many vineyards and orchards. | Fifty miles from San Francisco is the charming city of San Jose, with its superb hotel and its numerous places of resort near by, including the' Alum Rock Sulphur Springs and baths, in a pretty canon, seven miles from San Jose. The road to the springs is finely macadamized, and is the fashionable drive of the city. It is at San José that we leave the railroad to visit the Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamilton, twenty-six : miles away. Hundreds of people, throng to the Observatory every Saturday, on which day visitors are permitted to look through the greatest telescope in the world ; and the use of the various instruments is explained by the courteous astronomers.


THE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS.


N the Santa Cruz Mountains we find some remarkably enticing scenery. It is the fame l " Shasta Route'" on a small scale, nicking the superb grandeur of that scenery but giving in its place some of the daintiest expressions of beauty that nature ever vields to her eager worshipers. The San Lorenzo River, shaded by great redwood trees, winds along, now peacefully, and then in turbulent disorder ; and near it are the Big Trees. The morelfamous groves of the sequoia gigantea are those of Calaveras and Mariposa ; and next to these come the Big Trees of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The spot, in which they stand is surpassingly beautiful. One of these giants is shown, in the hollow trunk of which lived a large family in early days. Fremont's cabin is nedr. These are favorite picnic grounds ; and the train always, stops here for a con-": siderable length of time. |Through out the whole of this mountain trip there are romantic spots which invite to rest. Beautiful streams of the purest water abound; and the waters pre favorite resorts for the most expert fishermen of the State. Thousands of those whom an active city life has prepared to enjoy the luxuries which. these mount- ains afford flock hither 'every summer, and hundreds of tents dot the mountain slopes and shady ravines. Int these mountains is the world's greatest quicksilver mine, at New Alniaden, easily reached by rail.


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CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


THE BAY OF MONTEREY.


HE watering places on the Bay of Monterey annually have an enormous aggre- gate attendance of pleasure-seekers. "The shore is sheltered from the high . summer winds and fogs which occasionally invade other parts of the Pacific Coast ; and the climate (of both winter and summer is indescribably delicious. The absence of harmful frosts renders possible a luxuriance of outdoor flower- bloom unequaled in any other country in the world.


. A branch of the Coast Division deaves the main line at Gilroy, and upon arriving at Pajaro, divides, one branch funning along the northern side of the bay to Santa Cruz, and the other skirting the southern arm, passing the Hotel del Monte, Monterey and Pacific Grove. Santa Cruz is a beautiful city; with a long sand beach, and during the summer is crowded with a population drawn largely from San Francisco and the interior cities of the State. This is true also of Seabright, Capitola, Soquel, Aptos and other favorite summer resorts on the northern arm of the bay. Another way of


reaching Santa Cruz is by the Santa Cruz Division of the Southern Pacific Company, It is advisable for us to visit the Hotel del Monte by way of the Coast Division, then follow the contour of the bayj around to Santa Cruz, and return to San Francisco over the Santa Cruz Division. This gives one of the most charming, picturesque and. varied rides of about two hundred and fifty miles that may be found in the entire country. On the line of the Coast Division we pass through a level country filled with orchards, vineyards and grain-fields, while on either hand is a range of mount- ains in the distance. On the Santa Cruz Division the scene is changed. At Santa Cruz the road plunges at once into, the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains, and after: traversing them for thirty-five miles, winding through gorges and gulches, and here: and there following the tortuous course of a beautiful mountain stream, it emerges into the Santa Clara Valley at Los Gatos. Near this place, at Saratoga, are the Pacific Congress Springs, situated in one of the most charming canons in California. There; are a delightful hotel and other accommodations. The railroad runs |northward from Los Gatos through pretty villages and miles of superb orchards and vineyards, passes through San Jose and Santa Clara, runs by the immense insane asylum at Agnews, strikes the Bay of San Francisco at Alviso, and skirts that wonderful sheet of water on the eastern side, passing through several delightful towns, and termi- nating at Alameda, on the eastern side of the bay, opposite San Francisco. At Alameda there are famous, baths which San Franciscans liberally patronize; and the city is exceedingly attractive. Large ferry-boats transport passengers across the bay, to San Francisco ; and to a visiting stranger this is one of the most delightful sections of the tour.


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THE HOTEL DEL MONTE.


HIE southern end of the Bay of Monterey has an attraction of more than natu- ral beauty - the Hotel del Monte, known everywhere as the "Queen of American Watering Places." It is on the railroad and a miile from the charming old town of Monterey. The hotel is a splendid structure of modern Gothic design, and is situated in the most striking and band. some forest on the continent. This grove is composed of gigantic liveoaks and towering pines, and as the trees of both species are unusually large and present :


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the more striking peculiarities of their kind on the most stupendous scale, they present a picture of unique effectiveness, The contrast between the oaks, sprawl- ing, low and wide-spreading, and the pines interspersed among them, two or three times as tall, and straight and symmetrical, is exceedingly striking. In the heart of this great natural park is a flower-garden of one hundred and twenty-six acres. Apart from the vast expenditure of labor and money made on this garden, the natural conditions for floriculture which exist here are not equaled elsewhere in the civilized world. These causes make this garden the finest'exhibition of skill and 'beauty in floriculture that exist; for nothing in Europe, where the culture of flowers is carried to so high an art, can approach it in design, management and , splendor of color effect. In the Grounds there are the Laguna del Rey, whose glit- tering waters cover fifteen acres of ground, and from the center of which rises a fine thin fountain, and upon whose surface boating is a pleasant pastime; a curious maze; numerous tennis grounds, paved with ashphaltum; alluring walks and drives without a particle of dust or fnud; and numerous swings, settees, and a hundred other things .; The hotel itself is a noble structure. It has broad verandas and contains five hundred rooms. The furnishings throughout are the finest that could be procured, and were manufactured especially for this hotel. In summer this


CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


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superb resort is visited principally by Cal forniane, and visitors from the Southern States and Mexico, who wish to escape thier hot suinters; but in winter it is Alled with visitors who come to escape the fearfol weather of the Eastern States and; bask in the splendid sunshine of Monterey. It might be inferred from" this incomplete description that the charges at the Hotel del Monte are proportioned to the magnifi- cence of the entertainment provided. Such, however, is not the case. On the contrary, so much higher are the charges at the fashionable watering places of the Southern States that one may visit the Hotel del Monte from the East and save money despite the far greater distance traveled.


LFUZE.A


THE HOTEL DEL MONTE.


`The hotel is protected, from the Pacific vinds, not only by its embowering forest, but also by a high tree grown ridge of sand intervening between it and the ocean. ; On the ocean side of this ridge is one of the finest sand-beaches in the world. ; It stretches for miles from Monterey around the bay toward its northern arm, and this ! beach is a famous resort for surf bathers. : For those, however, who prefer luxurious ease to the wilder sport of a plunge into the surf, there has been provided the great bathing pavilion of the Hotel del Monte. It is on the beach, a short distance from the hotel, and is one of the finest bathing establishments in the world. Four large swimming tanks, filled daily with sea water, brought to different fixed temperatures, constitute the central idea, but there are also luxurious baths of various kinds. in private rooms. .


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CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


MONTEREY AND ITS VICINITY.


ONTEREY, a mile distant from the Hotel del Monte, although not strictly a resort, is so charming and interesting that we cannot afford to pass it un- noticed. It is the oldest town in the State, and many of its ancient adobe houses, built more than a century ago, are still standing, some in fine preser- ·1


vation and others in picturesque ruins.


Pacific Grove, three miles beyond Monterey, is a famous resort, particularly in sum -.


mer. It nestles


cosily in a great


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: pine grove, is built on ground which rises gently from the bay to the summit of the peninsula, and is the ideal resting- place for those who, caring noth- ing for the greater eleganre of the Hotel del Monte, want to dream away a month of delicious repose. Bathing, moss- gathering, and strolling along the rocky shore are favorite pas- times. El Car- melo, the modest , SCENES AT MONTEREY.| sister of the Hotel ventions, such as the Chautauqua Assembly and others. A superb assembly hall is provided for this purpose.


del Monte, has an open door and delightful enter- tainment-or cot- tages may be had.


People of the more cultured sort, apart ifrom those who pursue the lighter forms of fashionable pleasure, come hi ther |by thou- sandsi; it is the resting - place . of artists, teachers, musicians, lite- rary people, and brain-workers in general. Asacon- sequence there are held here dur- ing the summer a: large number of; important con-j.


One of the most interesting of the attractions hereabout is the fainous Eighteen- mlle Drive, a, splendid macadamixed highway, starting from the Hotel, del Monte,


SANTA CRUZ.


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SANTA MONICA.


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CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


passing through Monterey, crossing over the neck of the peninsula to Carmel Bay (pass- ing the famous old Carmel Mission, not far away), and thence skirting the entire pen- insula, passing, on the way, the curious, gnarled cypress trees, which are peculiar to this little corner of the world ; some charming reaches, which yield marvelous mosses and pebbles; the seal rock, upon which thousands of seals scramble'and bark ; the great reservoir, which supplies Pacific Grove and the Hotel del Monte with water ; Fremont's old fort, and then Monterey again.


While in this part of the State we may visit the Gilroy Hot Springs, reached by stage from Gilroy. | This is a famous resort for invalids and pleasure-seekers. The hot mineral waters possess exceptional healing powers, and are useful both for drinking and bathing. The springs are beautifully situated in the Coast Range; and the hunting and fishing thereabout are an irresistible temptation to those who enjoy that kind of sport. The. Madrone Mineral Springs, six miles north of the Gilroy Hot Springs, are also very popu- lar. The Tassajara Springs, in Monterey county, are largely visited. (lune and fish abound in all of this country bordering on the Bay of Monterey.


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SANTA YSABEL!


The Coast Division of the Southern Pacific continues its course southeasthardly through Monterey county, and terminates in San Luis Obispo county, traversing the rich, broad valley of the Salinas River. We shall lind rare beauties all the way ; but our first objective point is the Paraiso Springs, seven miles by stage from Soledad. These yield hot soda; and sulphur waters, and are very popular. | Pursuing the journey on the Coast Division, we arrive at the Paso de Robles Hot and Cold Sulphur Springs, in the northern extremity of San Luis Obispo county. : Thousands of remarkable cures have been effected by the use of the waters which these noble springs yield. Not far from Paso Robles are the curious Santa Ysabel Springs, which lately have come into prominence. They yield hot sulphur water ... In pre-historic times this must have been a great health resort, as the mijns of ancient dams are visible. Within the last few years the place has been improved with gardens and drives, and by the construction of an artificial lake of the warm spring water, where the visitor can indulge in a most enervating swim. 1.


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CALIFORNIA :' ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


YOSEMITE AND THE BIG TREES.


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F course the crowning glory of California's natural attractions is the Yosemite Valley ; and no real visit to the State can be made without seeing this marvelous : creation. As no other natural wonder in the world has been so often and ably: described as this, we shall do hardly more than mention it. To reach it, we cross the bay from San Francisco to Oakland, and there take the Southern Pacific Com- pany !. train by way of Martinez and Lathrop. Here we enter the great San Joaquin Valley, the southern end of the vast interior basin, of which the Sacramento Valley is the northern end. > On the right, toward the west, lies the Coast Range, low and dark, and on the east, the towering Sierra Nevadas, whose giant peaks are forever covered with


THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.


snow. It is into the heart of these snow-clad summits (though below the line of perpet- ual snow) that we must penetrate to find the Yosemite Valley. We leave the main line at Berenda, one hundred and seventy-eight miles from San Francisco, and take a branch railroad, called the Yosemite Division, which runs eastwardly into the Sierra foothills to Raymond, twenty-one miles from Berenda, Here we take the stage for the Mariposa Big Trees and Yosemite. The ride is superb: for as the road, with thousands of turnings and twistings, rapidly climbs the Sierra, it brings into view a series of scenic wonders and beauties which only these extraordinary mountains disclose.


`The Mariposa Grove of Big Trees is on the way to Yosemite; and the visitor to the valley cannot afford to let these monarchs of the forest pass. The Rey. T. De Witt Talmage says of them : " Who that has seen them can think of them without having his, blood tingle ? Trees are now standing there that were old when Christ lived. These montrehs of foliage reigned before Ciesar or Alexander ; and the next thousand years will not shatter their seepter. "They are the masts of the continent; their canvas spreads on the winds, while the old ship bears on its way through the ages. Their size, of which


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


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travelers speak, does not affect me so much as their longevity .. Though so old now, the brauches of some of them will crackle in the last conflagration of the planet,"


: We find ourselves at last on Inspiration Point, gazing down upon the incredible won- ders of the Yosemite Valley, + a long, irregular chasm in the heart of the mountains. Stupendous walls of granite in grotesque and suggestive forms inclose the valley; and far lown, a beautiful, sparkling river winds gracefully through the floor of the valley. The snows of the Sierra, slowly melting, collect into rivers, and these plunge head- long into the thedral Rock, vast, gloomy minister, built for the silent worship of the mountains. YonderisSen- tinel Rock three-than- sand two hyn- dred and sev- enty feet high -- bold. poli- tary, standing guard among . the ages, its top seldom touched, juntil a bride. one Fourthof July mounted'it. and planted the national standard, and the people down .in the valley looked up and saw the head of the mountain' turbaned with the Stars and Stripes. ' Yon- der are the Three Broth- ers, four thou- sand feethigh, Clouds' Rest, North and' South Domes, and heights ne'er captured save by the bayonetstof the thunder- starm. The Bridal Veil Fall, so thin. that you can ' see the face of the mountain' THE BIG TREES! behind : yon- valley over. the towering edge of the 'granite wall. "That valley of the Yose- mite," says Dr. Talmage, Pis eight -miles long, a half mile vide and three thousand feet deep. It seems as if it had been the meaning.of Omni potence tol crowd into as smallta space as pos- sible some of the most | stu- . pendous scen- ery of the world. Some. of the cliffs you do not. stop to meas- ure by feet for they are literally a mile high. Steep! so that foot of man . or beast! never yscaled them, they stand in ever- lasting defi- ance. If JJe- hovah : has throne on earth, these are its white pillars. Stand- ing down in the immense chasm of this valley, you look up and wonder at Ca- der are Yosemite Falls, dropping two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet - sixteen fiines greater descent than that of Niagara. These waters are dashed to death on the rocks, so that the white spirit of the slain waters, ascending in a robe of mist, seeks heaven. Vonder are Nevada Falls, plunging !seven hundred feet, the water in arrows, . the water in rockets, the water in pearls, the water in amethysts, the water in diamonds. That cascade flings down the rocks enough jewels to array all the earth in beauty, and rushes on until it drops into a very hell of waters, the smoke of their torment ascending forever and ever."


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CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


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OTHER SIERRA WONDERS.


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THER wonders abound in the Sierra. The Hetch-Hetchy Valley, on the Tuolumner River, sixteen miles in an air-line from Yosemite, is almost as marvelous as its i better known sister. Its general character is the same, but it is smaller. . Tower- ing domes, stupendous cliffs, and lofty waterfalls exist here as at Yosemite ; and we shall be well repaid for a visit to this enchanted spot. It is hardly so easy of acces sias Yosemite, and is not so much visited ; but for all that it is one of the wonders of C. Iffornia. The Calaveras Grove of Big Trees likewise demands our attention. It is ; reael ed by stage. from Milton, which connects with San Francisco by rail. | While in the vicin .ty, we may pay a visit to the Wonderful Mammoth Cave of Calaveras; fourteen; mile distant from the Big Trees, or seven miles from Murphy's. The Crystal Palace Cave which has a hotel at its mouth, is not far from here. It is southeast of Murphy's, just across the Stanisalus River, and five miles north of Columbia, a stage station, Two. natural bridges in this vicinity, one of them a remarkable formation, deserve a visit. A com "aratively little known scenic marvel of the Sierra is the King's River canon. ; We may hire horses and reach it from either Fresno or Visalia. Here the scenery is wilder. grat der, and more picturesque than at Yosemite; but the valley, though very long, is littl . more than a gorge, the scenery lacks the finer finishing touches of Yosemite, and woi terful waterfalls are absent. The towering needles, domes, and cliffs of granite pierce the 'ky thousands of feet above the floor of the valley, conveying an impression of the wildest and fiercest desolation. The finest fishing in this part of the State is found here; and hose who are hardy enough to tempt fate in the form of a grizzly, may find abundant opr rtunity. The Kern River canon, farther south, but also opening into the great in- teri i basin of the State, is probably equally as wonderful as the King's River canon, but cop aratively little known.


: BEAUTIES OF THE SOUTH


AVERYBODY has read of Southern California ; and little can be said of interest in addition to the volumes which have been devoted to descriptions of these incom- parable charms. Since Santa Barbara has been made accessible by rail, we may make it a flying visit. `Hard and unresponsive indeed must be the nature which fail to be touched and quickened by the infinite charms and graces of this favored Sp st. The climate is a perpetual spring; and tropical fruits ripen throughout the year, Ti e city rises from a pleasant beach to the slopes of the Santa Ynez Mountains, and faces the south. The shore line runs east and west ; the mountains shelter the town from the trade winds. There are superb hotels here, including the Arlington, San Marcos, Com- . mercial, and others. To the north tower of the castellated crags of Santa Ynez, to the east and west stretch long vistas of beach and valleys, and to the south is the grand old ocean, with the beautiful islands of San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, and Anacapa rising from its depths. Four miles from Santa Barbara is the charming resort, Montecito,


LONG --


BEACH.


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CALIFORNIA : ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


with its springs. Back of Santa Barbara is the Ojal Valley, noted for its health-giving climate, and also for the Qjai Valley Springs at Nordhoff. This is a fine health resort.


Upon going to Los Angeles we find ourselves in the center of a delightful country. The city itself is beautiful ; but a knowledge of its charms is common property. It is one. of the most popular places of resort in California for Eastern people, Back of it rise the San Gabriel Mountains, from whose western slope roll thousands of acres of orchards, vineyards, and orange groves toward the sea. At the base of these mountains sits, the beautiful town of Pasadena, which has more wealth and refinement in proportion to its population than can be found elsewhere in the State. |On the slope is the famous Sierra Madre Villa, a charming and popular resort, with a fine hotel ; and near Pasadena is the superb Hotel Raymond. . On the coast, elghteen miles from Los Angeles, situated. on noble bluffs overlooking the sea; is Santa Monica, a famous seaside resort, with a fine' hotel. and surf-bathing all the year round .: \ railroad running directly south from Los Angeles brings us to Long Beach, on the coast, - a popular resort for literary and other cultured classes, and the meeting place of the Chautauqua and other societies.




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