Early settlement and growth of western Iowa; or, Reminiscences, Part 5

Author: Todd, John, 1818-1894
Publication date: 1906
Publisher: Des Moines, The Historical department of Iowa
Number of Pages: 222


USA > Iowa > Early settlement and growth of western Iowa; or, Reminiscences > Part 5


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quel proved, varying in depth from a few inches to half way up the sides of the horse. As the water made traveling faster than a walk im- practicable, you can easily see, without much exercise of the imagination, that your itinerant had plenty of time leisurely to survey his position and prospects, while plodding his way over that not less than five miles of flooded bottom, perched much of the time like a monkey in the saddle to avoid the submerging of his nether extremities. The Missouri bottom safely passed, and Argyle's ferry on the Nishnabotna soon reached, that bottom too was found overflowed. The ferryman, however, promptly rowed his passenger over the river channel, and disembarked him in the overflowing waters on the other side, through which he slowly made his way for yet perhaps a quarter of a mile, directed by signals from the ferryman as the en- gineer is guided by signals from the brakeman. Once more safely on dry land the itinerant pushed on through McKissick's Grove toward Linden, but as the high waters had hindered the travel, Linden could not be reached that night, and so lodging and entertainment were kindly and generously afforded at Squire Thomas Farmer's in McKissick's Grove. The parson was ushered into a spacious, well finished room, with a small bright fire in the fire place, surmounted by a mantlepiece on which stood a bright lamp, and not a mosquito either seen or


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heard. This led him to reflect upon the com- parative desirableness of life on the Missouri bottom, and in the bluffs. In the bottom we had no peace of our lives in the evening, and never ventured to strike a light, unless prepared to take refuge under mosquito bars. Here he could sit by the burning lamp and an open fire, which recent rains and a cool evening rendered very agreeable, and nothing to annoy or molest. What a con- trast ! How deeply he felt it!


The sun rose bright and clear next morning. The parson hasted forward to Linden and High Creek, filled his appointments, and effected a safe return home on Monday; but from that time the Missouri river bottom has never seemed to him the place to locate a College, and henceforth there was a strong disposition to take higher ground. In this Brothers Gaston and Adams were of the same mind.


Independence day was now near, and was ob- served by us in a Sabbath school picnic in Beattie's Grove, Lawyer Ford being orator of the day, and J. Todd to address the children. The former though present refused to speak, so that an address to the children, with some appropriate songs by them, constituted the services of that occasion.


As Sidney had been selected as the site for the county seat, in the summer of 1851, as soon as the road across the bottom became practicable, and


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lumber could be obtained, building on the town site commenced. In the after part of the summer, Rev. Wm. Simpson, of the M. E. church, with his family migrated to, and located at, Council Bluffs, and took charge of the Council Bluffs M. E. mission. In the fall Rev. G. G. Rice, of the American Home Missionary society, took up his residence at the same place with his family.


The overflowed portions of the bottom proved to be good fishing ground. Two of our young men went out one morning equipped with pitch- forks for spears, and a horse and sack to carry the fish. In a few hours they had caught as many buffalo fish, as they could carry home. They were able to follow them by the moving of the tops of the tall grass, as they wriggled their way through the water. But in the after part of the summer, as the waters began to dry up, malarial fever prevailed all along up and down the river. Very few escaped. Quinine was a common specific, and was prescribed by physicians, until the supply was exhausted. None could be had at Kanesville, St. Joe, or any of the towns around. Dr. Blanchard, as a dernier resort, and taking a hint from the Medical Journal, prescribed for his patients chloride of sodium (common salt). Three tea- spoonfuls were deemed a dose, and cures were effected thereby.


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As the Missouri bottom was no longer a satis- factory site to a number of the people of our settlement, various tours were taken at intervals during the summer, in search of a more eligible location. Cutler's camp on Silver Creek was looked over. Big Grove in Pottawattamie county was considered. Several points in Harrison county were visited and discussed. Finally the present site of Tabor was decided upon, and accordingly G. B. Gaston, S. H. Adams and John Todd, with their families came to this vicinity in April, 1852. When Rev. Wm. Simpson of the M. E. church, a worthy and esteemed brother, came to Civil Bend in the discharge of his duties, he came to see the writer, and in his social, fra- ternal manner accosted me thus: " Brother Todd, if you have got any Methodists among your people here, they belong to me." This rather relaxed the hope I had fondly cherished, that I might be able to unite in one organization, all the Christians of any given neighborhood. But we had no un- pleasant words or hard feelings. He on invitation consented to co-operate in a protracted meeting in Civil Bend in the winter of 1851-52, on the express condition that he should be permitted to say " Amen " as often and as loud as he chose. This privilege was very willingly granted him and a series of meetings was held to the edifica- tion of Christians and conversion of sinners.


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In coming to the vicinity of Tabor, a footing was obtained by Brother Gaston buying a timber claim of Mr. Buchler, and J. Todd buying out Mr. Frederick Argyle, who had a timber claim with two log cabins, about two miles southwest of Tabor. One of these cabins was fitted up for a school house, and in it Mrs. M. A. Todd taught the first school ever taught in Ross town- ship. In the summer of 1852 Mr. Gaston and Mr. Adams erected the first two houses built in Tabor-Mr. Gaston's situated on the southeast corner of Park and Orange streets, now ( 1891) occupied by Henry Starrett, and Mr. Adams' form- ing part of Mr. J. L. Smith's barn and woodshed.


During the summer of 1852, Sunday school and public services were held under the shade of a basswood tree near the pastor's log cabin in fair weather and in the cabin in foul weather. There on the 12th of October of the same year, the Tabor Congregational church was formally organized, with the following members: Geo. B. Gaston, Maria C. Gaston, A. C. Gaston, Alonzo M. Gaston, Sam'l H. Adams, Caroline M. Adams, John Todd, and Martha A. Todd. Rev. G. G. Rice of Council Bluffs was present by invitation, and preached on the occasion from I Cor. 2:5, "That your faith should not stand in the wisdom of men, but in the power of God." A weekly prayer meeting on Wednesday evening,


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a missionary concert on the first Monday evening of each month, and an anti-slavery concert on the last Monday evening of each month, were main- tained from the beginning-the last of these was kept up until emancipation by proclamation of President Abraham Lincoln, when a jubilee of praise and thanksgiving terminated its observance.


In June, 1852, a county Washingtonian Tem- perance Society was organized at Sidney, which held quarterly meetings in the county, and was kept alive and running for about twenty years, mainly by the people of Civil Bend and Tabor.


Having now taken higher ground, friends from the east began to join us. In the spring of 1853, Deacon Origen Cummings and family, and Abbie, his sister, Wm. J. Gates and family, Jesse West and family, John Hallam and Joseph Munsinger landed at Civil Bend, on the 15th day of May. S. R. Pearse and Jas. K. Gaston came also in 1853.


As the parson had brought with him the preced- ing spring a red cow of strong attachments to lux- urious living, and tenacious memory of good graz- ing, no sooner had the vernal showers and balmy breezes awakened to life and fragrance the pas- tures along the river, than she broke away from her accustomed range and set out for the " Bend," taking her companions with her, thus leaving her owner and his family on short rations. In this


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plight was the parson on the morning after the landing of the friends at the " Bend." According- ly, as he then owned no horse, he set out early that morning on foot, with staff in hand, to recover his fugitive cows. Civil Bend was twenty miles dis- tant, and on the Missouri bottom were several sloughs or ponds to be crossed, which required of the pedestrian the removal of boots and hose, and their replacement on the other side. Just as the parson had made one of these crossings and was in the act of adjusting his apparel, Deacon O. Cummings and wife drove up, on their way to Tabor to announce the arrival of their company. After a most cordial greeting and mutual congrat- ulations, the parson trudged on, recovered his strays, and reached home again in good season the same evening, having walked forty miles and driven his cows twenty.


CHAPTER VI


INCIDENTS BY THE WAY


THE FIRST GRIEF


J AMES GATES, oldest son of Wm. J. and Emily P. Gates, was so unwell at the time of their landing that they remained with him for a few days at Lester W. Platt's, hoping he might recover. But instead of improving, he grew worse, died five days after their landing, and was brought to Tabor for burial. There was no bury- ing ground then agreed upon, and he was buried, temporarily, near where Mrs. Kempton's house now stands. The loss of a loved child is always trying to parents' hearts, but circumstances often add greatly to the trial. If sickness must come, who would not choose to be sick at home? But this came when they were without a home-stran- gers in a strange land! They were not without friends, but necessarily without many of the com- forts they had left behind. Their prospects were shrouded in gloom by this bereavement. They came first to Tabor to bury their first-born son.


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WORTH OF HALF A DOLLAR


Escape from the overflowed bottom to the high- lands around the sources of Plum Creek, leaving all the improvement of years behind, necessarily curtailed the resources of the escaping families, so that during the ensuing summer the parson's larder grew lean, and his barrel of flour failed, and the bill of fare became brief and simple- fried mush and cream for breakfast, Johnny cake and butter for dinner, and mush and milk for sup- per. This all went very well. Sleep was sweet and refreshing, digestion was good, parents were well, and children hearty and strong. But the meal sack became exhausted, and this were a trivial matter, had not the money failed first. Brother Gaston had so often befriended the parson that he was very reluctant to trouble him farther, or let him know his strait. Had he known, he would, if necessary, have generously shared his last flap- jack. But the petition was offered with increased fervor, "Give us this day our daily bread," nor was there any disposition to spiritualize it either.


Just at this crisis, God sent along (the now sainted) Abbie Walton, who, without any earthly reason, gave Brother Gaston half a dollar for the parson. She owed him nothing, but he accepted it as a real godsend, as it was; and jumping astride Old Queen, with an empty sack but replen-


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ished purse, he hasted to Squire Wright's-a mile or two south of Thurman-bought two bushels of corn, shelled it with his own hands, got it ground at Leeka's mill on his return, and he and his went in the strength of that meal many days. No other fifty cents ever proved so valuable to the parson as that fifty. Never was there a half dollar to him like that. It drove the howling wolf from the door. It bridged the yawning chasm, and all passed safely on their way.


OLD QUEEN


Since I have mentioned " Old Queen," let me explain. For some time after coming to Iowa the parson was dependent on his brethren for a horse to get to his appointments. Brother Gaston sent a letter to some friends in Oberlin informing them of the parson's need of a horse. They, in the true Oberlin spirit, circulated a subscription paper, raised and sent about seventy dollars to enable him to obtain a horse. With that money, Queen, a clay-bank colored mare, better to ride than to do hard work, was bought of Lester W. Platt.


Brothers Gaston and Adams built and moved into their houses in the village of Tabor during the summer of 1852. The parson, whose house was the third one built, occupied his in August, 1853. Jas. L. Smith visited Tabor in June, 1853,


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and came with his family across the state in the autumn of the same year, bringing with them Loren Hume and Wm. L. Clark. During the same season Darius P. Matthews and family re- moved from Percival to Tabor.


From August, 1853, until November, 1854, public religious services were held in Brother Gas- ton's (Henry M. Starrett's) house, on the south- east corner of Orange and Park streets. From November 24th, 1854, till the autumn of 1860 the place of meeting was the school house on the northeast corner of Center and Elm streets (now forming part of Mr. Webb's residence). From 1860 to 1865 the College chapel, in its original size and form, on the northwest corner of Center and Elm streets, furnished the place of meeting; and from 1865 for ten years, the chapel in its present size afforded the place of worship.


INCIDENTS OF 1854


The year 1854 opened Nebraska for settlement, and many crossed the river from Iowa and took claims there. There were a number of accessions to the people of Tabor that year. In the spring came Jonas Jones and family, Wm. Madison and family, Isaac Townsend and family, Mrs. Ruth V. Webster and family, and Judge Q. F. Atkins, of Cleveland, Ohio, father of the parson's wife, came along to visit his daughter and family. He


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returned in a few weeks to Ohio. Egbert Avery and Marcus T. Spees came on foot across the state in the fall of 1853, and the former returned to Ohio and brought his wife with him in October, 1854, but stopped for a time at Percival. There were here early in 1854 also John West, M. P. Clark, L. A. Matthews, L. T. Matthews, O. B. Clark, Merrick W. Thayer and J. L. Hunter. Wm. R. Shepherdson was among us as carpenter and joiner. Jonas Jones, as requested, brought with him our present bell-the first that ever on this western slope summoned human beings to the place of worship, or called redeemed sinners to the work of praise and prayer. It was soon sus- pended on a temporary frame at the corner of Orange and Park streets and at once brought into service. To those from Oberlin it seemed the du- plicate of the Oberlin College bell, and its fa- miliar tones unlocked the cells of memory, and waked the echoes of other days. But when the novel sound began to penetrate the neighborhood, fears were expressed that it would frighten all the chickens in the vicinity off their roosts.


In those days our community was about as near a pure democracy as is ever found. Whenever any project was up of public concern, a public meet- ing was called, and the matter deliberated upon in open assembly. Conclusions reached were usu- ally unanimous or nearly so, and each one seemed


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eager to do his part toward the general welfare. The work of 1854 was to build a school house. The people, therefore, were called together in February and a subscription paper started. Nine- teen, nearly or quite all the men in the place at that time, subscribed cash or work. The subscrip- tions ranged from five to fifty dollars, and footed up four hundred dollars and eighty cents-that to begin with. The house was built on the northeast corner of Center and Elm streets, where it stood for about twenty-five years. On its roof hung our bell, on a little frame, for many a day, ready to summon the citizens to worship, which a jolly York state cousin coming along assured us looked like a turkey on a sawbuck. During the winter of 1853-4 Jas. L. Smith taught the first school ever taught in Tabor in the northwest room in Mr. Starrett's house (then Mr. Gaston's). As the school house was completed in the autumn of 1854, a school was taught in it the following winter by the parson. When, in 1852, Deacon Cummings came to Tabor, he brought for the parson a trunk of clothing from friends in Clarksfield, Ohio, as far as Tipton, and for want of public conveyances across the state, it was left there. In November of 1854 the parson crossed the state with his buggy and procured the trunk; and although absent but about a fortnight, his nine months old son, sup- posed to be as well as usual when his father started,


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was in his grave when he returned. Little David had sickened and died in so brief a time! Yet who will say that our heavenly Father, in whose hands our breath is, and whose are all our ways, is any less a God of love ?


A committee was appointed in May of this year to plat the village of Tabor, but other things engaged public attention, and the survey was de- ferred till 1857.


INCIDENTS OF 1855-6


In June of this year the parson's wife revisited friends in Ohio. The parson attended the state association at Burlington for the first time. He and his wife crossed the state in an open buggy, she going on to Ohio, while he attended associa- tion. He there met Robert H. Hurlbutt on his way to Tabor to " look," and brought him home with him. L. B. Hill and L. E. Webb came out the same season on the same errand. Hill and Hurlbutt both went back to Ohio, and returned again in the following year, bringing their families and goods across the state. Mrs. Esther Hill and family accompanied her son, L. B. Hill, and Chas. Lawrence drove one of Mr. Hurlbutt's teams. B. F. Gardner and family came in the fall of 1855, and B. F. Ladd and family about the same time. I. Hollister joined us in January, 1856, and I. C. Lyman the same year. H. D. Ingraham appeared


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among us not far from this time, also M. C. Pearse and J. L. Hunter.


At this time our connection with the outside world was mainly through a stage coach, which ran between Council Bluffs and St. Joe regularly, passing through Tabor daily each way, carrying the mail and passengers.


Our place obtained its name in this way. When we asked the department at Washington for a postoffice, not knowing what names were already appropriated in our state, we sent on several, ar- ranged in the order in which we preferred them. Osceola was placed first, and some others before Tabor. But when the office was granted it was called " Tabor." We afterward learned that Osce- ola was the county seat of Clarke county. So our little " burg " was named Tabor. The postoffice was granted, and Jesse West was the first post- master.


At first our prairie country was so open and the wind so strong that it was not deemed safe to build a higher than a story and a half house, and Jonas Jones erected the first two-story house in Tabor, on the northeast corner of Center and Orange streets, now the residence of President Brooks; and the posts of that were shortened after the timbers had been procured.


CHAPTER VII


KANSAS TROUBLES


T HE repeal of the Missouri compromise line, and the opening to settlement of the terri- tory west of Missouri and Iowa, soon pre- sented the "irrepressible conflict "-the struggle between freedom and slavery-in a new form .* Said Wm. H. Seward in the United States senate in 1854, " Come on, then, gentlemen of the slave states; since there is no escaping your challenge, I accept it in behalf of Freedom. We will engage in competition for the virgin soil of Kansas, and God give the victory to the side that is stronger in numbers, as it is in right."


No sooner was it known that Kansas was open for settlement than hundreds from Missouri crossed into the territory and took claims, and held squatter meetings, and then returned to their


*The following notice was found among my father's papers in his handwriting, and I recall hearing that those who attended were greeted by the proslavery rabble in a way char- acteristic of those times, viz., with stale eggs. J. E. T.


ATTENTION ALL!


A meeting of the Antislavery friends of Fremont County will be held in Sidney on Sat. Sep. 15, 1855, at 11 o'clock A. M. All interested in resisting the encroachments of American slavery are invited to attend.


Addresses alternating with appropriate music may be expected on the occasion.


Sidney, Sep. 1, 1855.


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homes, after adopting such resolutions as the fol- lowing :


" That we will afford protection to no aboli- tionist as a settler of this territory.


" That we recognize the institution of slavery, as already existing in this territory, and advise slaveholders to introduce their property as early as possible."


Governor Reeder arrived in the territory in Oc- tober, 1854, and November 29th of the same year the first election was held, at which a delegate to Congress was chosen. At this election 1,700 il- legal votes were cast. On the 30th of March, 1855, the members of the territorial legislature were elected. On this occasion not less than 5,000 Missourians invaded the territory. According to the statement of the Congressional Committee's report, there were at this election 4,908 illegal votes cast, and of course slavery carried.


The state of excitement in western Missouri may be seen from the following extract from a speech at St. Joe by Gen. Stringfellow (an as- sumed title) in 1854:


"I tell you to mark every scoundrel among you who is the least tainted with abolitionism, or free-soilism, and exterminate him. Neither give nor take quarter from the d-d rascals. To those who have qualms of conscience as to violating laws, state or national, I say the time has come


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when such impositions must be disregarded, as your rights and property are in danger. I advise you, one and all, to enter every election district in Kansas, in defiance of Reeder and his myr- midons, and vote at the point of the bowie knife and revolver. Neither take nor give quarter, as the cause demands it. It is enough that the slave- holding interest wills it, from which there is no appeal."


David R. Atchison, senator in Congress from Missouri, was actively urging on the "ruffians " by counsel, speech and pen. Blue lodges were formed in all the western counties in Missouri to help forward the cause. Organizations were formed in the several slave states, and companies of men sent forward.


There were also free state organizations to aid in sending forward emigrants, the principal of which were "The American Settlement Com- pany " and "The New England Emigrant Aid Company." The thoroughfare into the territory was up the river by boat, or by private conveyance across the state, so that it was in the power of Mis- sourians to greatly annoy emigrants, and this power they did not fail to exercise. Emigrants from the north were driven back; they were tarred and feathered; their claims were seized; their cabins were burned down; they were often ordered to leave the territory at once, on penalty of death.


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Steamboats on the river were searched for free state men, and if any were found, they were forci- bly turned back. Men were placed in skiffs in the river current, without oars, and sent adrift. Fer- ries were watched, and free state men prevented from crossing into the territory.


To determine whether any one was Yankee or not, he was required to say " cow," and if he said " keow," he could not cross. Such was the deter- mined hostility to free state men, that the route to Kansas via Missouri was barricaded against them, and they were obliged to seek a new way through the free states.


That we may the better understand and appre- ciate the occurrences of 1856, let us briefly review the events in Kansas prior to this year.


I. The Kansas-Nebraska bill was passed by Congress near the last of May, 1854.


2. The first company of eastern emigrants, guided by Chas. Branscomb, numbering thirty, en- tered the territory and settled at Lawrence in July, 1854.


3. Two weeks later they were joined by a sec- ond and larger company of sixty or seventy, with whom came Dr. Chas. Robinson and S. C. Pom- eroy.


4. Gov. A. H. Reeder entered Kansas and assumed rule in October, 1854.


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5. Hundreds from Missouri crossed over into Kansas and took claims as soon as it was known to be open to settlement, some of whom remained, but many returned to Missouri, where was their real residence.


6. Gen. Whitfield was elected territorial dele- gate to Congress, November 29, 1854, at which election 1,729 illegal votes were cast, which were about three-fifths of the whole number. (See report of the Congressional Investigating Com- mittee.)


7. The election for territorial legislature oc- curred March 30, 1855, when 4,908 illegal votes were cast, or two-thirds of all. Many of the members elected were Missourians, and never had any legal residence in the territory, and some of them were refused certificates of election by Gov. Reeder, who in consequence became unpopular and was superseded by Wilson Shannon in the sum- mer of 1855.




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