USA > Iowa > Buchanan County > History of Buchanan County, Iowa, and its people, Volume I > Part 4
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The Buchanan gravel presents two phases, an upland phase in which the materials are relatively coarse, and a valley phase, composed largely of sand and fine gravel. Bowlders, ranging to more than a foot in diameter, are not Vol. 1-2
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HISTORY OF BUCHANAN COUNTY
uncommon in the upland deposits; pebbles more than an inch in diameter would rank among the unusually large constituent fragments in the lowland phase.
The type exposure of Buchanan gravel occurs at the gravel pit of the Illinois Central Railroad, in the northwest quarter of section 32, Byron Town- ship. Ilere the deposit is about twenty feet in thickness. A very fine exposure of Buchanan gravel is seen in a large pit worked for road material near the northeast corner of section 4, Liberty Township. In some respects it is better than the type exposure east of Independence.
Another excellent exposure of Buchanan gravel oceurs west of the center of section 33. Perry Township. A large pit is worked for material which is used in improving the streets of Jesup. A thickness of eighteen feet is exposed.
About a mile east of Independence there is a heavy bed of Buchanan gravel presenting all the usnal characteristics. It is overlain at one point by 214 feet of Iowan drift. This deposit is remarkable for the faet that it oreurs on the highest ground between the Wapsipinicon and the Buffalo. At one point the bed has been worked extensively for road material, but the gravel covers the whole hilltop over quite a large area.
The region about Rowley is well supplied with gravels belonging to the Buchanan stage, and there is an extensive area underlain by these gravels in the eastern half of Fairbank Township.
Gravel is found over an area from half a mile to a mile and a half in width east and southeast of Littleton, and it is continued in a belt of varying width all the way to Independence. It extends up the valley of Harter Creek for at least two miles.
IOWAN DRIFT
The Iowan drift is the superficial deposit over the greater part of Buchanan County. Since this drift was laid down the surface has been modified to only a very slight extent. The general aspect of a region covered with drift of Iowan age is typically displayed in Cono, Homer and Westburg townships, southwest of the Wapsipinicon River, and in Middlefield, Fremont and Byron, northeast of this stream. The surface is very gently undulating and is liberally sprinkled with enormous granite bowlders. Bowlders ten, fifteen or twenty feet in diameter, and standing conspicuously above the general surface, are common features of the prairie landscapes, and great granite masses, thirty feet in diam- eter, are known at several points. Multitudes of smaller bowlders, ranging from one to two or three feet in diameter, are a serious encumbrance in many fields and pastures.
The main body of the Iowan drift is a yellow, highly calcareous elay. It shows no such differences between the superficial and deeper portions as does the Kansan. It has remained, even at the grass roots, practically unchanged by weathering since its deposition. The great stretches of undulating prairie without marked drainage courses remain unaffected by the agents of erosion. As compared with the Kansan drift or the Buchanan gravels, the lowan is very young, the time since its deposition being evidently only a very small fraetion
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of the length of the interval between the disappearance of the Kansan ice and the appearance of the Iowan.
The maximum thickness of this drift sheet is unknown. It was evidently deposited on a deeply eroded surface, and it is, therefore, very thin over the Pre-Iowan hilltops and deeper in the Pre-Iowan valleys. Railway ents, which of necessity are limited to the higher ridges, usually, in Buchanan and ad,ja- cent counties, show only a thin veneer of lowan drift resting on weathered Kansan. In the big railway cut east of Oelwein in Fayette County, the lowan stage is represented by a layer of loamy soil less than a foot in thickness, while in the eastern part of Fairbank Township, Buchanan County, the farm wells show at least thirty feet of Iowan till overlying highly oxidized beds of Bnehanan gravel.
LOESS
Loess is rather rare in Buchanan County, the deposits of this material being of small importance when compared with the widely spread beds of the same material in Dubuque, Delaware and Jones counties. In Buchanan, true loess seems to be limited to some high points north of the Wapsipinieon River in sections 28, 29 and 30 of Liberty Township. While the loess here is typical in character, its thiekness is not very great. It mantles an irregularly eroded surface that rises from sixty to eighty feet above the level of the lowan drift plain. Rain erosion in the fields and roads has, in places, cut through the entire thickness of the deposit and revealed the underlying Kansan drift with its peculiar bowlders and characteristically weathered surface. There is no Iowan drift on these loess-covered highlands.
POST-GLACIAL DEPOSITS
But little change has taken place in the surface of the county sinee the retreat of the lowan ice, the date from which the postglacial history of the county should be reckoned. Some alluvium has doubtless been deposited along the stream valleys during times of high water, but in most cases it is too thin to be differentiated from the loam which has been developed on the surface of the Iowan drift by the numerous agents concerned in soil-making. In the deep preglacial valleys that have been mentioned as occurring at a few points along Lime Creek and the Wapsipinieon River, there are some beds of alluvium, but they are thin, small and unimportant.
In the county there are a few rather anomalous peat hogs which present the unusual phenomenon of being higher than the dry ground in the immediate neighborhood. One in the northwest quarter of section 13, Perry Township, is typieal of all the beds of the kind observed. The peat is coarse and fibrous, with a total thickness of eight or ten feet. The bed occurs on a long, gently sloping hillside and in the center is several feet higher than the dry ground at the right and left. The area covered is small. The surface supports a Inxuriant growth of coarse sedge or slough grass. A similar peat bog on rela- tively high ground is seen in the southwestern part of section 19, Newton Town -. ship, and there is another in the southwest quarter of Section 8, Hazleton
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Township. The location of the peat beds has been determined by the presence of springs or "seeps" issuing from the drift on the hill slope.
SOLLS
Soils, in the narrower sense which limits the term to the fine dark colored loam developed on the surface of the loose. superficial materials, are generally throughont the county, of postglacial origin. Soils vary with the nature of the deposit from which they are derived. Drift soils are most common in the county under consideration, and practically all of the drift soils are developed on the lowan till. This class of soils is from six inches to two or three feet in depth, dark in color on account of its wealth of organic matter, more or less sandy. warm and easily cultivated. Such soils contain a considerable amount of lime carbonate that. added to the vegetable matter with which they are so richly endowed, renders them capable of producing crops of cereals for many successive years without showing signs of exhaustion. The small area of loess soils in seetions 28, 29 and 30, of Liberty Township, has recently been stripped of its timber and brought under cultivation. The results are more satisfactory than in many other areas of similar soils where the slopes are steeper and the effects of rain erosion are more pronounced. There are small areas of gravelly and sandy soils along the stream valleys, the largest being found north and north- west of Independence.
DEFORMATIONS
The antielinal fold to which reference was made in diseussing the Niagara limestone, is the principal disturbance of which there is clear record in Buchanan County. There are some slight folds, probably, however, due to the inequalities of deposition, in the Devonian strata.
UNCONFORMITIES
The Devonian beds are evidently unconformable on the sloping side of the Niagara antieline in the vicinity of Fairbank, and the relations of the several Pleistocene deposits to each other, and to the indurated rocks on which the lowest drift sheet lies, afford other illustrations of unconformity.
CHAPTER II FLORA AND FAUNA
AT THE BEGINNING-ECONOMIC FEATURES
We do not deem it necessary to this history to give an exhaustive account of the flora and fauna of this county, but a description of its physical features would be incomplete without at least some general description of both.
We would not try to give a scientific study along these lines, even were it possible, for such a treatise is only interesting to professionals and students of those particular seiences.
We will, however, aim to mention and briefly deseribe those species of flora and fauna which have been the most prolific and most commonly known here, and in such a manner that we hope will interest lovers of nature. What infor- mation we will here set forth has been gleaned from our own study and observa- tion, from previous articles written on the subjects in an early history and others written by students of these sciences of the present day.
One of the most startling reflections in regard to this subject is that such great changes have been produced, both in the flora and fauna of this county, as well as of all other newly-settled regions, by the advent of civilization. These changes are utterly unavoidable although regrettable. It takes a vivid imagina- tion to picture a country, now so highly developed, in its wild and uncultivated state, where flora and fauna rivaled each other in their prolificness, but not in their inalienable rights. There was no contention between the kingdoms in those early days; each reigned absolute, in its own sphere. It was not until the ruthless hand of man had destroyed that some of these species suceumbed. Nature has so arranged it that under normal conditions and left unmolested by man, the different species proteet themselves, and will maintain a natural replenishing existenee. But once let the average fall far short and it is difficult and almost impossible for any plant or animal to regain its former flourish- ing state. Nature can and will retrieve her losses, if given time, but she cannot withstand continued onslaught without at last losing the power of production. We see this demonstrated in the flora and fauna, as in all other of Nature's speeies.
Many, yes, hundreds of vegetable species, and many, though doubtless a much smaller number of animal species, have been subdued and adapted to man's needs and become like him, domesticated and cultivated. These are the food plants, the vegetables and the domestic animals that have become actual necessi- ties to his existence. To these we are greatly indebted for our material eom- forts. Then there are other species, which, like eertain song birds and flowering plants, are semi-domesticated ; they will dwell peacefully and contentedly in close proximity to man, and are never found remote from his habitat. To these
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we owe inch for the esthetic and sensuous enjoyment they give. But there are numerons noxious and tenacious weeds and vines and harmful and annoying insects and vermin that infest the homes of man and follow him with a per- tinaciousness and defiance that menaces his comfort and fairly threatens his God- given supremacy. Then there are those species which defy all the efforts and advances of man to subdue and domesticate them and still retain their natural wild state, or gradually die from the conflict and finally become extinct.
Speaking of the pernicious weeds that have become a real, public nuisance and have prevailed in spite of every known precaution, safe preventive and sure eure, we have but to mention the dandelion and everyone appreciates what the words. persistent and noxious, mean. It seems improbable, but nevertheless it is a substantiated fact, that some of the early pioneer women, and one an ances- tor of the author, sent back East to procure some dandelion seed. She was homesick for the beautiful, bright yellow blossoms, and they are beautiful, and would be considered choice. indeed, if they were scaree, but familiarity breeds contempt.
Another early settler told of finding one of the plants and carefully trans- planting it into her flower garden. Nowadays we transplant their remains into the garbage pile.
Then there are the plantago, or common plantain, stellaria or chiek-weed, purslane or portulaca oleracea, shepherd's purse or Capsella bursa, pastoris and other members of the cruciferae, or mustard family, burdock, or lappa major, stick-weed and beggar's lice (species of Echinosperinium), several species of polygonium, especially those called lady's thumb and smart weed, thistles, tumble-weed, rag-weed, dog-fennel or wild daisy, wild morning-glory, milk weed or Aselepias, horse mint, and many others of which we do not know even a common name. Perhaps they are unworthy of any name.
And where there is too much sand and too little substanee for any decent plants to grow. the sandbur, burgrass, or cenehrus tribuloides, which very appropriately means thistle hedge hog. and which is the special tribulation of the barefoot boy.
None of these plants, as far as we can find, are indigenous to this country. The first settlers found none of them on the prairies or in the groves and it is an interesting study in itself to know how seeds are carried to far distant lands, and if the wind and the birds were means of transportation formerly, as they still are, how can we definitely decide which are the indigenous and which are the cultivated plants, even though the botanist arrived early on the scene, but that is a question which only a scientist can answer with any degree of knowl- edge and really is a matter of trifling consequence, and however it is, the pioneers thought they had left them all behind, but as soon as they were well established in their new homes, they were astonished to find many of their old troublesome neighbors, the weeds, had moved in and were as tranquilly settled in the new home as were their previous, warlike enemies, the pioneers. How they got here nobody knows, and the perplexing question of how to get rid of them is as great a problem, but evidently they are here to stay despite all efforts to the contrary.
Of the animals which accompanied the early settlers in the same unbidden, unceremonious manner, are the birds that sing, chirp, and twitter about our
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HISTORY OF BUCIIANAN COUNTY
houses and in the fields and woods, and with which we would not for any reason part; we love their song and companionship so much. Among these are the robin, blue-jay, honse-wren, song sparrow, blue bird, oriole, swallow, martin, meadow-lark, bob-o-link and others. All these birds that we find so common now, were not native to these woods. We are fortunate in having a great variety and great abundance of birds in this locality, the woods and meadow are full of them in the summer and even in town they are very numerous, but compara- tively few of them can stand the severity of our winters. One that braves even the most vigorous weather is the blue-jay and this constaney, together with his gay and beautiful plumage, is more than a compensation for his harsh voiee, though even he has occasionally, a sort of "sotto voce" warble which is by no means unmusical, but our summer guests are the real songsters. And the summer residents are too numerons to give a complete list, but we will add a few to the different ones we have already spoken of. The yellow hammer, sap- sucker, purple graekle, vireo, kinglet, warbler, grosbeak, goldfinch, cow bird, flycatcher, kingbird, flicker, snipe, mourning dove, hawk, owl, crow, kingfisher, whip-poor-will, chimney swift, pewee, meadow lark, humming bird, cathird, brown thrasher, wood thrush, veery, scarlet tanager, and many, many others, and most of these mentioned have several different species, so you can imagine that the feathered kingdom is a vast one.
Then there are the English sparrows, which never leave us, and become so numerous that they are a real pest-they build their nests in such annoying places, in the cornices of stores, barns and houses, over porches and windows, in the lattice work and even in the most inseenre and peenliar places, and are quite as persistent in maintaining their selected residence as are the dandelions. We knew of some which built their nests over a sliding barn door. Day after day the door was shoved back and ruined their nests; or if the door did not destroy them the man of the house would rake them down. But their courage and per- sisteney were never daunted ; they commenced immediately to work at rebuilding, gathering together the same material which had been scattered broadcast. Such tenacity and ambition surely are to be admired, even in a bird which we do not particularly love. But their most disagreeable trait is that they are so mean and annoying to other birds: they steal their nests, aggravate the mother birds when nesting and make life generally miserable to all of the other bird families, and yet one cannot help but like them as they are aggressive, sauey and law- defying, but withal are so independent, sprightly and courageous.
Our other little winter birds are all such peaceful and happy little fellows. A former historian declared the bluejay was the only bird that could brave the severity of our winters, but nowadays we have quite a few kinds that are our constant visitants throughout the winter months. This may be accounted for either that the winters are not so severe (there being more protection for birds) or possibly these particular varieties were not habitants of this region in the early days.
Some of those which are winter residents here, at least if the winter is a mild one, are the chicadee, brown ereeper, downy woodpecker, hairy woodpecker, phoebe, junco, nuthatch, bluejay, snowbird, pine grosbeak, waxwing, shrike, snowflake, redpole, owl, and others. But of all the birds I would venture a guess that the robin is the most familiar and best liked bird that we have in our
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IHISTORY OF BUCHANAN COUNTY
vicinity although the wren is a close second in popularity, and next to the English sparrow - that troublesome, vexations importation - the robin is the most numerous.
The instinet which leads these and other species to make their abode about human dwellings is a most interesting and wonderful one. Some, no doubt, do it because they can find their food more easily and others because of the protection it affords them from the attacks of hostile species, while some seem just to want to be friendly with man, and probably all these reasons influence them to frequent human habitation. It is still more wonderful that species which for the most part lived remote from the abodes of men, and are reckoned as the most timid and difficult to tame, should actually change their characteristics and manifest such confidence in their civilized neighbors that they move to quarters in close proximity.
The red squirrels are becoming so numerous and so audacious under the laws protecting them in the towns that they threaten to be a great nuisance ; every tree seems alive with the frisking, chattering little animals and they have almost monopolized this original favorite retreat of the birds and driven them to seek the more extensive woodlands for their homes. These saucy scamps help them- selves to all the nuts and fruit they want and to all the delicacies of the garden- strawberries and sweet corn are their especial delight. They also are said to eat the birds' eggs and destroy their young and a continual warfare rages between these little tree dwellers. The gray rabbits, certainly one of the most timid and untamable of the native animals, are frequently seen around town, and will brave all their dangerous foes to burrow their nests under some brush pile or out- building in our back yards. And very occasionally in some vacant lot or on the outskirts of the towns. the pretty, graceful little quail is seen-but only at such times when the state game law enforces a closed season for his protection. A natural instinet, probably inherited from a long line of his ancestors, has taught him that along about September 1st it is time for him to keep his distance and be very wary and cautions of all bipeds, especially if they are carrying anything resembling a ramrod. Prairie chicken seem to be even more searee than quail. At this late year, 1914, when there are comparatively so few quails in this eounty, it might almost be doubted that they are seen in the towns but the writer has known of a pair frequenting a vacant lot opposite her home For several summers. And the tales of the early settlers about the great abundance of native game seem much more improbable. We have heard them tell tales that would out-distance Baron Munchausen and would fairly compete with Unele Opie Dilldoek of comic supplement fame-tales that would positively establish this as the real red man's "Heaven, " the " Happy Hunting Ground" for all good Indians. One tale bears repeating. After supper one evening one of the early settlers of Independence went just to the outskirts of the town to get a prairie chicken for breakfast. He saw a flock of them perched in a compact row along a fence board. He got on a line with them and fired-just one shot-and killed -. Oh, no, not quite all. because several hundred flew away ; but he picked up birds there until it got too dark to see and when he got home he only had forty-nine, and so many were left to bleach upon the prairie that the spot was ever after known as the "bone-yard." Now this tale may not be absolutely true as to a few minor details such as figures. but the general idea is correct, because we have verified the fact that there was a
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HISTORY OF BUCHANAN COUNTY
great abundance of both fish and game here in the early days. Which brings to mind many fish tales which far surpass even Jonah's in size, but we would not want to entirely risk our reputation as historians-and veracious ones-to repeat said tales, even for the sake of boosting onr county.
But from a real authentic source (the county newspaper of December 22, 1863, date) we quote this interesting item: "The way the prairie chickens are coming into town is surprising. One man sold $350 worth yesterday, while sales of $50 and $100 are of frequent occurrence." Three or four wagonloads of chickens, quail and pheasants on the streets in one day was not unusual and the shipping of chickens had become quite an industry ; some of the stores in Inde- pendence were literally piled full of them ready for shipping East. And another item told that Tom Hunt, the best shot in Buchanan County, recently killed 157 chiekens in one day with 150 shots. (Certainly a record breaker.) We believe the record breaker is one dated September, 1869. It told of four young men starting ont of Independence at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, driving fifteen miles, hunted the remainder of that and the next day, and bagged 337 prairie chickens-a record which was never beaten after that in this county.
Of the most unwelcome species which followed the early settlers to their western homes are the rats and mice and various insects that prey upon their cultivated fruits, garden truck and grain. And it is a strange fact that almost every tree, shrub, and plant which is necessary or desirable for man's nses has its peculiar insect enemy. Farmers dread the insects far more than bad weather. Some seasons the fruit and vegetables in particular localities have been com- pletely destroyed by insects and worms, and several succeeding years the grain crops were utterly destroyed by ehinch bugs. Cut worms, potato bugs and other pests have at times worked havoe with erops. Farmers in this vicinity entirely stopped raising wheat on this account, and only recently have they resumed the industry. The grasshopper and locust have bothered some, but not to the direful extent that occurred in other of the western states. We do not seem to have those pernicious insect pests with which the early settlers had to con- tend, but every new country has all of these things to overcome, and when that has been accomplished, new vicissitudes arise to be conquered.
It is a ceaseless and relentless warfare, the beneficent forces against the malevolent and not always does right prevail. As in the instance of the rats and mice, which although they do not propagate very fast, and although man is continually and everlastingly fighting these abominable pests which do so much harm, and seem to be for no purpose but destruction and annoyance, so far as we can see (to all races except the Mongolian, who are said to consider them a rare delicaey), they still thrive and prosper.
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