USA > Iowa > Linn County > History of Linn County Iowa : from its earliest settlement to the present time, Volume I > Part 8
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"While it is true that those who located in this county in the years 1837 and 1838 eame from the east, it is also certain that this section would not have been reached so early in this eentury had the lands immediately west of the Mississippi been unselected. It was, and still is, the desire of genuine pioneers to find a spot beyond the confines of civilization, no matter how crude the outlying stations may be."
The first settlement of whites in Iowa had been at Dubuque, where Dubuque and his followers worked the mines at that place. This at one time was a great center of attraction, but as the government restricted settlers from coming in, they were driven baek until treaty arrangements were made with the Indians, who were the owners of the land upon which the mines were located. These men who first eame as miners early saw the exceeding beanty and fertility of the Iowa lands, and thus news was spread among the people of the east before the Iowa lands were thrown open for settlement. Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois were by this time pretty much settled up, and so was Missouri and nearly all the land adjoining the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Thus it was that as soon as the word came from the government that part of Iowa was thrown open to settlement adventurous men and brave women soon began to cross the Mississippi and to settle in various parts of what was then so well known as the Black Hawk land. There were no roads in those days, not even trails, and consequently a person did not dare to venture out on the prairie, but he generally followed some stream so that he could find his way back to the starting place, at least.
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HISTORY OF LINN COUNTY
Most of the people who came west to settle had no idea of where to locate or of the condition of the lowa lands. They were bold, fearless, and determined, as well as resolute, and they pushed on until they found a locality which suited their fancy and here they pitched their tents and lived in their wagons until suitable log cabins were erected.
Prior to 1829 there was not even a ferry established at any regular point on which to cross the river into Iowa; even the miner, Dubuque, when he wanted to re-eross to the Illinois side had to borrow an Indian canoe. The familiar Du Bois. who came early into Illinois in Joe Davies county, trading with the Indians. had no other means of crossing the river than in Indian canoes. By the latter part of 1829 one John Barrel was commissioned to maintain a ferry at Roek Island. which at that time was within the confines of Joe Davies county, which extended for miles and miles along the river, like Dubuque county on the west side of the river. Col. George Davenport also obtained a permit to run a ferry from Daven- port across the river, the ferry charges being fixed by the commissioners so that there could be no hold-up. The following charges were made, which must have been pretty high for the people of small means in those days:
Man and horse $25.00
Horses or cattle, per head. other than cattle yoke .3716
Road wagon 1.00
For each horse hitched to said wagon .25
Each two-horse wagon .75
Each two-wheeled carriage or cart
1.00
One-horse wagon
.75
Each hundred weight of mdse .. etc.
.06
To avoid paying this ferry charge a great many of the settlers started early in the spring and would cross the river on the ice and thus save this additional ex- ยท pense. William Abbe and his family, and many others who settled in Linn coun- ty. at least those who were familiar with the ferry charges, erossed on the ice.
George Davenport established a trading post as early as 1831 at the month of Rock creek, and another on the east side of Cedar river just above Rochester a short time later. Thus, gradually, there extended a system of small stores in the bayous, ereeks, and rivers where trading was carried on mainly with the Indians. The settlers who came generally followed these trails and would be helped and advised where to go and where to find the best roads, and also as to whether or not the Indians in the immediate vicinity of the stores were hostile or friendly.
Block houses had also been erected near these frontier stores for protection in case of Indian outbreaks.
Another trading point was that of Rockingham which was laid out as early as 1835, and in the early forties considered one of the best villages in the territory. It was to this place the early settlers came up to 1841-42 to trade. as well as to Muscatine and Davenport.
The settlers who came late during the summer of 1838-39 were unfortunate in case they were unable to get enough hay for their stock, for the winters were very cold and there were no provisions or food to be purchased, and many a fam- ily along the Cedar river in Linn and Cedar counties during these years endured some severe trials. Money was scarce, provisions of all kinds high, and no trading posts nearer than those at Davenport. Muscatine, and Rockingham. It is said that Robert Ellis and Philip Hull came to William Abbe's on their way to Muscatine to get provisions in the fall of 1838. William Abbe gave them $15.00 - all the money he had - and with tears in his eyes told them to buy what they eould, for that he did not know what would become of his wife and children when that was gone, for it was all the money he had in the world. They were absent about two weeks, and brought back as much provisions as they could buy with
7
LINN COUNTY SCENES
45
BEGINNINGS IN LINN COUNTY
what money they had. and by hunting during the winter they got along and helped William Abbe. In the forties William Abbe seeured government contracts, and then became a well-to-do man. Robert Ellis was a partner with Abbe many times in supplying the outposts with provisions.
Many families during the latter thirties and the early forties experienced some hard times in Iowa. To make the situation and surroundings still more difficult the creeks and sloughs between the settlements were treacherous quagmires in which wagons going for or returning with provisions were sure to settle in up to the hubs, and when onee in the mud there was no way to get them out except by unloading or by going to the nearest store for help, which would be many miles away. Sometimes the assistance of two or three additional yoke of oxen was seenred to pull out the wagon.
The winters of 1837-38-39 and 40 began early, snow falling to the extent of a foot or two as early as the latter part of October. and it inereased as the winter advanced. There was no thaw in January, and the settlers were completely shut in until about the middle of April. Then the snow all melted away and the streams were swollen so as to be impassable. Thus it was impossible to get to any place for food or for provisions until way into the summer. Consequently the settlers experienced many hardships, and much of the stoek died from sheer starvation. As early as possible in the spring the settlers would unite and start off for Museatine. Dubuque, or Rockingham for provisions, and on their return would help the needy settlers who had no opportunity to get away. Sometimes these journeys were undertaken on foot, when two or three would start off with knapsaeks to get the neeessary foods and medieines, and would return as soon as possible.
It is wonderful what the old settlers endured - how they walked a distance of 100 miles in less than two days. Robert Ellis walked from Michigan to Iowa; he walked to Dubuque, Museatine, Davenport, and Burlington many times, while it is said of William Abbe that he walked easily 60 miles a day without being very mueh exhausted. Then. again, when roads were impassable for wheeled vehicles they would ride horsebaek, leading sometimes one horse to be used as a paek horse to bring baek provisions.
To show with how much difficulty the early settlers toiled to get a foothold in Linn eounty. it might be well to state the story of the life of Edward M. Crow. who, as a young man. in 1837 came into the county to a place near where is now located Viola. He was only 21 years of age, and eame west from Chicago, having previously come from Indiana. He stopped first in Illinois and having heard of Iowa, eame here in search of eheap land. He was accompanied by James Dawson and James Gillilan, the latter owning a team of horses. They constructed ferry boats of their own on which to eross the river. The other two parties got tired and left. Crow later found Dawson in Illinois. They travelled over much of Iowa, back and forth, mostly on foot ; sometimes together, sometimes setting out in different directions alone. Finally, both Dawson and Crow united in Jones county, staking out a claim in Linn county in July. 1837. Returning to Fox river, Illinois, again in quest of provisions, they did not come back to Linn county until in August of that year. when Ed and Garrison Crow and James Dawson began their settlement, erected a cabin and eut some hay for the winter. They were without food, and had to make another trip to the borders of civilization for provisions for the winter. The monotonous months of winter rolled by. Crow's party subsisting by hunting as best they could.
A number of settlers came into Brown township during the early years, such as Jacob Mann, David Mann, his brother, William P. Earle, Asa Farnsworth, and many others. John Crow, father of Ed Crow. John Lynn, O. Bennett. Charles Piekney, Benj. Simmons. Solomon Peekham, and Alexander Rhotan were emi- grants who settled here in 1838. All those who eame that year and have been
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HISTORY OF LINN COUNTY
definitely corroborated, or who were there as real settlers, were the following: Samuel C. Stewart, Peter Me Roberts, John Afferty, William Abbe, Israel Mitchell. Will Gilbert. J. G. Cole, Hiram Thomas, Joseph Carraway, Jacob Leabo, John Henry, J. Wilbert Stone, Osgood Shepherd, wife, father and several children. Robert Ellis, O. S. Bolling. Mr. Ashmore. W. K. Farnsworth. Robert Osborn, Thomas Campbell, Perry Oxley. Will Vineyard, James Hunter, J. J. Gibson, Robert Deem, Michael Donahoo, William Chamberlain, Mr. Williams, Mr. Evans, J. B. Sargent, John Sargent, A. J. MeKean, John Scott. H. W. Gray, S. H. Tryon, Anson Coles. Andrew Safely, Rev. Christian Troup. D. S. Hahn, Iliram Bales, Asher Edgerton, Peter Roland, John Stewart, I. E. Boyd, Philip Hull. John Young, Mr. Granger. L. Il. Powell, John MeCloud, Mr. Kemp, Listebarger broth- ers, and many others.
The Hoosier Grove settlement was made in 1838, being in Putnam township; Isaac and Abner Cox and John Holler, and several others, settled here that year.
During the year 1839 Otter Creek was settled by Stevens, Michael Greene. Bart MeGonigle, Henry Nelson. William Chamberlain. Dr. J. Cummings, Will Sullivan and Perry Oliphant.
Dyer Usher and Joel Howard ferried people across the Mississippi near Mus- ratine in the summer of 1839. These men died near Covington a few years ago. Usher always claimed that he was on the site of Cedar Rapids as early as 1836 and located west of the river two years later. The young men could make no money in a new country, and while they took elaims they frequently left for civilization to earn a little money. So it might have been that Usher was a bona fide resident of Linn county, while he could get no employment nearer than Muscatine.
A number of persons settled early around Cedar Rapids in the timber a few miles from town. William Knowles located on what is known as Mound Farm in 1839 and gave this up to the Brodie family, consisting of parents, five sons and three daughters. The names of the sons were Hugh. John, William, Steven, and Jesse. Rev George R. Carroll speaks of the family as having an unsavory repu- tation. The family removed further north when some of them at least were ae- ensed of being notorious horse thieves.
Joel Leverich next became the owner of Mound Farm, a person who had somewhat of a history in the early days of polities in the county. In 1843-44 this property was purchased by George Greene.
A number of people lived along the trail between Marion and Cedar Rapids. Among those well known not already mentioned may be named Ambrose Harlan, Dave Woodbridge, J. E. Bromwell. J. P. Glass. Rufus Lucore. John and Will Hunter, Thomas Hare, Will Willis, and many others.
We quote the following from directories and gazeteers published years ago. These statements may not be correct in some details, but the faets were obtained from some who were doubtless familiar with them.
Thus Wolfe in his Cedar Rapids and Kingston directory of 1869 speaks of John Mann, of Pine Grove, as the first settler in Linn county, he coming in 1838. and of the first marriage in the county as that of Sarah Haines to Riehard Os- borne, in 1839, and the first death as that of Mrs. Haines, an elderly lady who died from an accident in July, 1838.
Hle further speaks of the first store in Westport as that of Albert [ should be John] Henry in 1838. It is thought that Stone also carried on some store or trade with the Indians before this. He speaks of the second store as being oper- nted by W. H. Merritt in 1839. This should be 1838, as is seen from Merritt's letter to S. W. Durham, found in another portion of this volume.
The first claim of land in Cedar Rapids was made by William Stone, in 1838. who built a cabin on the banks of the river on Commercial street, now First street. Is this the Shepherd cabin, and was this so-called first tavern erected
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BEGINNINGS IN LINN COUNTY
and occupied by Stone, who later was compelled to vacate it and give up his claim ? Mr. Wolfe also speaks of the first saw and grist mill built by Brown in 1842, the second flour mill built by Alex Ely in 1845, and the first woolen factory erected by Brown in 1845. Miss Legare built a saw mill in 1851.
As late as 1869 Wolfe speaks of eight flour and saw mills being operated in and around Cedar Rapids. He speaks further of two woolen factories and the steam bakery of I. HI. Shaver & Co., and of the Fish paper mill, manufacturing 300 tons of paper annually. The directory speaks of the American Express Company having an office here as early as 1859, with W. B. Mack as the first local agent.
The editor also mentions that the learned professions were represented by ten clergymen, thirteen doctors, and about fifteen lawyers.
He also mentions J. Bell's stage line running daily between Iowa City, Solon, Western, and Cedar Rapids, and also of a line to Vinton.
The following as seen by a traveller may be of interest. It is from A Glimpse of Iowa in 1846, by J. B. Newhall, Burlington, Iowa. W. D. Skillman, publisher, 1846 :
"Linn county has become proverbial for the excellence of its soil, its sal- ubrity of climate, abundance and admirable adaption of woodlands to the wants and convenience of the settler. The prairies are remarkably fertile, and of mod- erate extent ; the timber equally and amply apportioned, generally of full growth, consisting, principally, of red and white oak, black and white walnut, linn, sugar, maple, etc. Linn county is famous for its extensive sugar orchards, from some of which 500 to 1,000 weight have been annually made. It is well watered by the Red Cedar and its tributaries, affording abundance of mill power, much of which is already improved.
"Marion, the seat of justice, is located near the center of the county, about four miles east of the Cedar, at the edge of a beautiful grove, on a gentle prairie roll. It contains several stores, a commodious hotel, postoffice, various mechan- ieal establishments, and is a place of considerable importance."
The modern traveler speaks of broad meadows, of rich corn fields, and of large manufacturing interests. This traveler of sixty-five years ago speaks of timber which has disappeared and of maple sugar orchards which makes us wonder what they were like.
From Bailey & Hair's lowa State Gazetteer, 1865, we gather these facts:
"The eounty of Linn is so named in honor of a distinguished senator of the United States, the Hon. Louis F. Linn, of Missouri. It is situated centrally in the eastern half of the state, and from fifty to sixty miles west of the Missis- sippi river.
"It was defined by act of the Territorial Legislature of Wiseonsin, at its session of 1837 and '38; that Territory then including the whole of Iowa within its jurisdiction. The county limits were the same as they now remain, consist- ing of twenty Congressional townships, containing an area of 720 square miles. It is bounded on the north by Buchanan and Delaware counties, east by Jones and Cedar, south by Johnson and west by Benton. It is now divided into nine- teen civil townships, as follows: Bertram, Bonlder, Brown, Buffalo, Clin- ton, College, Fairfax, Franklin, Fayette, Jackson, Linn, Marion, Maine, Monroe, Otter Creek, Putnam, Rapids, Spring Grove, and Washington.
"The county was duly organized by the Board of County Commissioners at their first session held September 9th, 1839, at the farm house of Mr. James W. Willis, one-half mile north of the present town of Marion. The board consisted of Samuel C. Stewart, President, Peter McRoberts, and Inman M. Strong, Com- missioners ; Hosea W. Gray, Sheriff : and John C. Berry, Clerk.
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HISTORY OF LINN COUNTY
" This Board also approved the selection of the county seat, which they ordered to be called Marion ; divided the county into election and road districts; and appointed Andrew J. MeKean and William H. Smith, Constables. Of the offi- eers and persons above named, but two, Messrs. Gray and MeKean, remain resi- dents of the county, the latter being the present Clerk of the District Court.
"The first white settler in this county was John Mann, who erected his cabin on Upper Big Creek, in Linn Grove, in the month of February. A. D .. 1838. He was an emigrant from the mountainous region of southwestern Pennsylvania. Ile was an honest. industrions, unlettered, rude sort of man. Subsequently he built a small flouring mill. A great flood in the spring of 1851 carried away his mill and himself together. The unfortunate man was drowned, and his body recovered only after several days had elapsed. The flood was unprecedented. and was thought to have been caused by a water spout. The Little Creek is said to have risen twenty feet in about as many minutes.
"The next permanent settler was John Crow. a North Carolinian, who made his home near the east line of the county on the Wapsipinieon river, in April, 1838. He was a very gentlemanly person, of more than ordinary intelligence, wealth and enterprise. He died about five years afterwards. much respected. Ilis son, Edward Crow. Esq., now a member of the Board of Supervisors of this County, and other descendants remain. During the summer of 1838 the set- tlements gradually extended in the cast part of the county. The only persons now recollected, of that early period, as remaining, are John Gibson, of Mount Vernon, and Andrew J. MeKean, and Hosea W. Gray, of Marion. The first family west of Big Creek was that of Jacob Leabo. from Kentneky. The first west of Indian Creek was that of James W. Bassett. from Vermont. The first Justice of the Peace was John MeAfferty, commissioned in 1838. The first Judge of Probate was Israel Mitchell, a Tennesseean. now residing in Oregon. The first Sheriff was Ilosea W. Gray. The first Clerk of the District Court was Joseph Williams, a Pennsylvanian; now said to be in the military service at Memphis, Tennessee.
"The first officiating minister was the Rev. Christian Troup, a German Luth- eran, who preached regularly in his own cabin near the month of Spring Creek every Sunday during the latter part of the summer of 1838. The first marriage was that of Richard Osborn and Sarah Haines, in the spring of 1839. The first birth was that of a danghter of Mrs. Samuel McCartney. in July, 1838. The first death was that of Mrs. Haines, an invalid elderly lady, who died from the effects of an accidental fall in July, 1838. The second was that of James Logan. an Irishman, who was killed by the caving in of a well which he was excavating in Marion, July, 1840.
"The first selected town site was called Westport, of which Israel Mitchell was proprietor. It was near the present site of the village of Bertram, and was selected in July. 1838. This was afterwards abandoned. The next in order of time, was called Columbus, built by William Stone, in September, 1838. He abandoned his town the next spring, there being only a single log cabin. The site was that ocenpied by the present city of Cedar Rapids. The next was Ivan- hoe, by Anson Cowles, in October. 1838, since vacated. The fourth was Marion. the present county seat, in April, 1839.
"The first election was held at Westport in October. 1838. that being the only poll opened for the county. The only candidates wore for members of the Assembly ; thirty-two votes were cast. The first member of the General Assembly elected from this county was the Hon. George Greene, member of the Legislative Council, elected in 1840. The first store opened was at Westport, by Albert [John] Henry. in the fall of 1838 The second at Ivanhoe, in the spring of 1839, by Col. William H. Merritt.
FROM CARROLL'S PIONEER HISTORY GOING SHOPPING IN THE EARLY DAYS }
INDIAN BOYS
INDIAN TEPEE
LATER INDIAN HOUSE
INDIAN GRAVE
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BEGINNINGS IN LINN COUNTY
"The first celebration was on the 4th of July, 1839, at Westport, Judge Mitchell, Orator. There was a dinner, toasts, and a ball, whereof William H. Smith, Andrew J. McKean and H. W. Gray, were managers.
"The fifth decennial census of the United States was taken in 1840, in this county, by H. W. Gray. Deputy Marshal. The population was 1,342. The influx of settlers for the next three years was quite rapid, during which time the population reached probably three thousand. The largest proportion of the emi- gration was of Southern origin. The early settlers were plain, honest, hospitable people, not much accustomed to legal restraints, and rather impatient of the slow process and technicalities of the law. As usual, in all new countries, they were annoyed by vagabonds, who flocked into the settlements, calculating on impunity In their depredations, on account of the inefficiency of the police regulations. A rude justice was not unfrequently meted out to offenders without recourse to legal forms, or the intervention of courts.
"In common with all frontier settlements, the first settlers here were poor; they were obliged to transport their produce in wagons mostly, to the Mississippi River, at points sixty or seventy miles distant. When reached at such disad- vantage the markets were very low, consequently the accretions of wealth were slow, and were mainly invested in the homestead of the farmer. The discovery of gold in California with the resulting emigration, opened a good market for the farmers at home. Afterwards, eastern emigration with the building of railroads, connecting the people with eastern markets, greatly accelerated the prosperity of this county as well as all other parts of the west. The financial crisis of 1857 interposed a check to this onward career of prosperity. It was but temporary, however, and the people had fully regained their former standing when the rebellion commenced.
"It is felt that a county which contributed one general, and fifteen field officers, with more than two thousand volunteers in defense of the Union, without draft or conscription, and without seriously lessening its productive energies, has an assured basis of future greatness and prosperity. A basis which nothing short of the entire upheaval and destruction of the foundations of human society shall be able to disturb."
In Guide, Gazetteer and Directory of the Dubuque & Sioux City Railroad, Dubnque, Bailey & Wolfe, 1868, we read of Cedar Rapids:
"The first settlement here was made in the year 1838 by William Stone, who erected a log cabin on the bank of the river in the rear of No. 1 North Commercial street. The same year Osgood Shepherd, a supposed leader of a band of outlaws, jumped Stone's claim and took possession of the cabin, and held it until the year 1841, when he sold three-fourths of his interest to N. B. Brown and George Greene, H. W. Gray, A. L. Roach, and S. H. Tryon, for the sum of $3,000.
"In 1842 he sold the remainder and soon after disappeared from the country. N. B. Brown came here in 1840, when Mr. Brown and Judge George Greene became proprietors of the water power.
"In 1841 the town was laid out and named from the rapids in the river. The first frame dwelling was erected by John Vardy and is still standing at 62 Brown street, corner of South Adams. The building known as the Old Post- office Building, North Washington street, was built for a store by N. B. Brown, the same year. P. W. Earle's residence, 29 Iowa Avenue, was the first briek building, and was erected by Mr. Earle in 1849. Wm. Dwyer built the first hotel in 1847. This was destroyed by fire in January, 1865.
"The work of constructing a dam across the river, was commenced by N. B. Brown, July 4th, 1842, though much of the material had been prepared prior to that date. Mr. Brown commenced the erection of a saw mill, and also of a grist
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