USA > Iowa > Dallas County > The History of Dallas County, Iowa, containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c. > Part 35
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The water in it was furnished entirely by the rain-falls and surface drain- age, and its bottom was underlaid with that white clay hard-pan which held securely whatever of water fell or ran into it until an outlet was furnished through its banks.
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
Until a few years ago it was an ornamental and attractive little lake, when Mr. E. M. Jones, the present owner of the lake-basin and lands adjoining, in July, 1876, cut a drain from a low point on the east side, across in an easterly course to the Panther creek, a distance of about three-quarters of a mile, which soon carried off all the water and left the basin as dry as the surrounding prairie; so that now it is necessary to dig from three to five feet below the surface in order to secure water. No indications of springs have been discovered in the bottom or around its banks. Mr. Jones feels confident that in a few years, when he has succeeded in draining it a little more thoroughly, so that the rain falls and surface floods can be carried off more rapidly, and the surface becomes moulded and purified by the atmos- phere, he will have, in this lake-basin, a tract of the most productive and valuable land in all that vicinity, with comparatively little extra work or expense.
Since it was thus drained a great many bones of buffalo skeletons have been found strewn over the bottom of the basin in various places. It is supposed that the hunted animals, having given out, or been wounded in chase, had rushed into the lake for water, or perhaps to take refuge from the closely pursuing wolves, or dogs and hunters, and that, being unable from exhaustion to rejoin their herds, they have died there and become buried in the waters. Dr. Akin, of Minburn, Sugar Grove township, has now the skeleton of a buffalo's head found on the bottom of this lake- basin after its drainage, and treasures it as a choice relic of buffalo bar- barism.
The lake, and adjoining land on the west and south sides, were formerly owned by William Clarke, who built a small frame two story house, about 16x24 feet, on its western shore, and in this kept hotel on the old stage line passing through that place, some thirteen or fourteen years ago. In that small house, we are informed, he has accommodated in those days of frontier life, as high as forty guests at one time with meals and lodging. Mr. Clarke finally disposed of this property, and it afterward came into the possession of the present owner, Mr. E. M. Jones, a well informed and courteous gentleman, to whom we are indebted for liberal hospitality and valuable information regarding this vicinity.
Swan Lake is situated on sections (27) twenty-seven and (28) twenty- eight, township (81) eighty-one, range (29) twenty-nine, now known as Dallas township, and is also an attractive little body of water. It covers about one-half section of ground, considering all the low lands included within the rim of its basin, and in the center of this low tract there is an area of about eighty acres of water surface, which constitutes the lake proper. In depth it will average nearly five feet of good clear water. The shallower portions in some places are grown up with large rushes, but the greater portion of it presents an open surface, and is altogether a beautiful little body of water. It has an outlet into the Elm slough, and thence into North Raccoon river in the northwest corner of the county. The lake lies out in the midst of a level prairie, with no timber near it, and is sur- rounded by a fine tract of country. It affords a good supply of fish, prin- cipally large, black bass and sun, or pumpkin-seed fish, and is a favorite re- sort for wild ducks and geese, as well as for hunters from various parts of the country, who come sometimes great distances to enjoy the choice sports of gaming and fishing which it affords. If it were drained like Pilot Lake
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has been it doubtless would afford a similar display of buffalo bones and skeletons strewn over the bottom of its basin.
Sloughs .- This county, very fortunately, has comparatively few of those unapproachable sloughs and tracts of swamp lands so often found on exten- sive prairies. The sloughs throughout the county are generally a good dis- tance apart, leaving a broad strip of well drained farming land on either side. They are mostly broad and level, with sufficient fall to carry off the drainage and prevent water from standing in them very long, while their channels do not wash deep narrow drains in the center as is the case in many other places. The greater portion of the slough lands in Dallas county could be easily drained and made tillable. They would then become some of the most productive farming lands in the county, and would still answer the same purpose of drainage for which they are now prized, at the same time producing abundant yields of hay or other products.
In some places they spread out in the shape of broad, level bottom lands, gradually widening and sloping down toward the valleys of the neighboring rivers or other running streams. The soil of these slough lands is some- what sandy, but is fertile and easily tilled when once drained and broken.
Well Water .- In most localities throughout the county good well water is easily obtained, at a moderate depth below the surface, in great abund- ance. Even on the high lands good wells are secured at a depth of from twelve to twenty feet, which furnish an almost unfailing supply of clear, cold lime water. Less frequently it becomes necessary to dig thirty and forty feet, and occasionally deeper before meeting with the same results, accordingly as the well-digger is fortunate in starting in the right place to strike a good vein. Here, as in other localities, of course, these water veins underground vary greatly in depth, and sometimes only a few rods from a good well fifteen or twenty feet deep, it may become necessary to dig twice or three times the distance in order to find plenty of water again, and vice versa, so that it is difficult to give an average of depth. But in this county, as a general thing, plenty of good well water is more easily obtained than in most places throughout the State, and though sometimes it is necessary to go down to quite a depth, the excellent quality of water secured well re- pays the digging.
Springs .- Dallas county is fortunately favored with springs. In fact nearly all the rivers and running streams within the county bounds seem to be fed principally by living springs issuing out of the bluffs, and ravines, and gravel beds all along their banks. They are so numerous and close together in many places along the rivers as to present the appearance of one continuous sheet of water running down the side of the bank into the channel, as if pressed out from a spongy spring-bed beneath by the im- mense weight of earth above. At other places they appear springing up and gushing out near the water's edge, or back in the ravines, sometimes at great distances from the river, and even well up on the sides of the bluffs fine springs are often seen boiling out and rippling down in crystal streams of clear cold water, and hurrying on to pay their tribute to the rivers.
Thus there is no scarcity of good spring and well water in Dallas county, which is generally easily obtained, excellent in quality and unfailing in quantity. The county also affords some springs whose water possesses mineral qualities worthy of note.
18
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
Salt Spring .- Near the head of a ravine in the southwest corner of the county, in Union township, there is a spring the water of which is strongly impregnated with salt. Around it is a level surface of about an acre, which it is supposed was worn down in this form by the continual tramping of deer and buffalo and other animals that had gathered around it to secure the salt element contained in the water.
Roads and paths leading into it from different directions are yet easily traced as the marks of approaches of wild animals to it in early times.
It is located near Lemuel Maulsby's, about section 18, and is quite a large spring.
During wet seasons a stream of considerable size issues from it, sufficient to turn an overshot wheel of considerable dimensions.
The deposits found by it are of a saline character, and the water is quite brackish; but no perceptible salt taste to it.
The water of this spring has never yet been utilized for any special purposes, though there is evidently quite a salt element contained in it.
Sulphur Spring .- In Union township, a little more than a mile east of Wiscotta, on section 2, there is a spring that is strongly tinctured with sulphur.
It covers an area of several rods square, including the boggy land around it; and the stream of water issuing from it constantly and flowing into the South Raccoon river a few rods below, is some two or three feet in width, sufficient to turn a good sized overshot wheel.
It is doubtless a valuable spring for medicinal purposes, and is consid- ered by various physicians to contain better medicinal properties than many other such springs of considerable notoriety in the country. But its waters have never yet been utilized for such purposes, nor have its medicinal prop- erties ever been thoroughly tested by anyone so as to learn the real value.
There are also numerous small springs around it of similar character; and still further east of it, important springs occur more or less frequently on either side of the river during its entire course in the county.
Timber .- Dallas county is also fortunately favored with timber, well dis- tributed and conveniently located to the prairie and farming lands, so as to be easily accessible from almost any locality within its boundaries.
All the rivers during their entire length within the county are bordered with belts of timber. Many of their tributaries are also skirted with woodlands along the greater part of their course.
Beautiful groves are dotted here and there, some of them occupying quite elevated positions, and others bordering on the low lands, which tend to relieve the monotony and dreary aspect so prevalent on our broad, bleak western prairies.
There are a great many varieties of timber found, such as oak, hickory, sycamore, walnut, hackberry, linn, elm, sugar maple, soft maple, cotton- wood, swamp ash, and in some localities white ash, etc. Along the river bottoms and low lands it chiefly abounds in the soft woods with a moderate per cent of hard wood trees occurring among them more or less frequently in different localities, while along the higher bank's and bluff lands are found the more valuable hard woods suitable for fencing and building pur- poses.
The heaviest and finest timber in the county is found, perhaps, at the junction of the North and South Raccoon rivers and around in that vicin- ity throughout the center of Van Meter township. In many places the
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
best hard woods of the old growth of timber have been pretty well culled out, and in others quite thoroughly cleared off, leaving a plentiful supply of the less valuable soft woods. But the second growth is rapidly increas- ing, and is furnishing, as an average, a better quality of timber than that which preceded, and it is estimated that the increase in growth will exceed the annual waste and consumption for all purposes; so that there need be no fear of the citizens suffering from want of fuel, and fencing, and shelter, especially since coal and lumber are becoming so plentiful and cheap, found almost at their very doors; and since about one-tenth of the entire county consists of good timber lands to be had at reasonable prices.
Even those who were born and raised in a timber country, and who have spent their prime of life in the woods can find here a timber home quite congenial to their nature, and also joining this they can secure, for as large a family as they choose to raise, a fertile tract of farming land, all grubbed and cleared and ready for the plow, which, with a moderate amount of labor and judicious management, will furnish a comfortable home and liberal income as the reward of faithful industry and prudence.
Along the South Raccoon river east from Wiscotta, and in Adams town- ship, around and in the vicinity of the mouth of Bear and Panther creeks, is a large body of heavy, valuable timber; and on the North Raccoon river, near the Union of Miller and Butler branches with that stream, there is a broad belt of fine timber land.
In these days, however, timber is not prized so highly as it was a few years ago, since railroad facilities and coal mines have rendered fuel, and fencing, and building material so plentiful and cheap; and as a consequence the price is considerably reduced, and the opportunities for purchasing in- creased. The average value of good timber land in the county is about twenty dollars per acre, and a fair quality can be purchased for even less.
. Prairie is the prevailing characteristic of the county. It is abundant in quantity and mostly all excellent in quality.
In so large a tract there must always be some that is of an inferior qual- ity. However, there is a comparatively small per cent of poor prairie land in this county, and among so much that is good it is a difficult task to des- ignate that which is best. On nearly all the divides between the rivers and running streams are found large tracts of beautiful, rolling prairie lands well drained, easily cultivated, highly productive and conveniently located to water and timber, and mills and markets.
Perhaps some of the choicest farming land in the county is found be- tween the Raccoon river and the southern border of the county. Some portions of that, however, are rather broken and hilly. While north of that stream and all to the west of the North Raccoon river on either side of Panther and Mosquito creeks, up to the north line of the county, there is a large tract of as fine productive prairie land as could reasonably be de- sired. Some portions of this are quite elevated and rolling, but never enough so to interfere materially with easy cultivation and improvement, while it possesses some broad, beautiful valleys and low lands of excellent quality. Nearly all the prairie on the east side of the North Raccoon is pretty much of the same character, only perhaps a little more elevated, and not so rolling as an average.
The tract contained between the North Raccoon river and Beaver creek is the largest body of prairie, unbroken by any running stream of much size in tlie county. It lies high and dry-except in some localities where
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
the ponds are a little too thick-enough rolling generally for good drainage and a very productive soil.
Along the Beaver creek and Des Moines river there is some excellent valley land, and in many places throughout the northern and northwestern part of the county are still fine tracts of prairie unimproved, affording fa- vorable opportunities for those wishing to procure desirable farms in a good county with productive soil.
The Climate is wholesome, invigorating and pleasant for this latitude, both winter and summer. The winters are generally long, with rather an even temperature, sometimes changing quite suddenly from cold to warm and back again to extremely cold weather within a few days. But these sudden changes are the exception rather than the general rule, so the cit- izens soon become accustomed to them, and consider it not half a winter without them. This region is subject to an average and occasionally a heavy fall of snow during the winter season which is usually accompanied by sharp, healthful frosts. But as a general thing the mercury remains above zero, seldom reaching more than twelve or fifteen degrees below, and very rarely falling to twenty and twenty-five degrees below zero.
Strong, sharp, chilling winds sweep over the broad prairies and down the valleys during the winter and early spring months, but these become modi- fied to gentle, bracing, welcome breezes during the later spring, summer, autumn, and early fall months; and within the past few years the winters have become greatly modified from the reputed coldness of earlier days to the milder temperature of a more southern clime, so that many of the older settlers having become accustomed to exposure in driving storms and blustery weather during the hardships of frontier life, rather incline to look upon these open, mild winters as intruders, coming out of season and out of place, and they begin to "long for the good old days of yore," when neighbors must become congenial and accommodating in order to keep from freezing or starving to death, and when storm-staid strangers will be made welcome guests at the fireside.
The later spring, summer and autumn months are generally delightful and salubrious.
The prairie winds, which become mild and almost constant, are fresh and bracing, regulating the temperature and purifying the atmosphere.
During the months of July and August they sometimes seem rather mild and motionless, allowing the sun's rays to beam down unhindered for awhile, and to occupy the field with ahnost undisputed sway, thus producing a few days of hot, sweltering harvest weather, which cause the citizens to place something of a proper estimate on the value and usefulness of the county's beautiful shade trees and excellent water. Then these few sultry summer days are soon followed by a glorious "Indian summer" of balmy autumn days, which are aptly fitted to brighten the pathway and " cheer the heart of man." The county has rain and wet weather enough to water the crops and produce a healthy growth of vegetation. But thus far, very fortunately, it has been out of the track of any seriously damaging storms or destructive tornadoes.
According to the climatological chart, the county has an average rainfall of 38 inches, but this seems to be a little exaggerated.
Health in Dallas county is generally good, and the citizens are usually robust and healthy.
Agne is now becoming quite rare, and the county is comparatively free
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
from any climatical diseases peculiar to its limits. There have been some cases of sickness this fall from malarial diseases in some localities, a num- ber of which have proven fatal. Here, as in all other places, people will sicken and die occasionally, and no one particular climate or locality seems to be fully adapted to all persons.
GEOLOGY.
Desiring to give the best authority on this subject, the following account has been carefully compiled and partly quoted from Prof. White's official report on the geological survey as State Geologist of Iowa in 1870.
The Geological Formations found in Dallas county belong to the post- tertiary and coal-measure periods, and are of the simplest character.
The Post-tertiary Drift is spread generally over the entire county, and is of variable thickness, estimated at from ten to fifteen feet. On the North Raccoon river, above Adel, the bluffs in many places are largely composed of these deposits; but its minimum thickness is found along the · stream to the south where the drift has been extensively denuded.
The drift is made up of blue clays, representing the original glacial de- posits and gravel beds; besides boulders, pebbles and " sand pockets " with occasional fragments of coniferous wood are distributed through its mass.
In excavating for water, these "old forest beds" are frequently encoun- tered, and in some cases the trunks of quite large trees have been discovered in a very perfect state of preservation. The loose materials form a consid- erable, though unevenly distributed, portion of the drift, and one that is co-extensive with the unmodified deposits in the uplands. In the valleys, these deposits have been still further modified by the currents confined in definite channels and producing the varied phenomena displayed in the terrace formations bordering the larger water-courses.
Terraces of this kind occur in various parts of the county along the · larger streams.
In the valley of the South Raccoon, especially in the vicinity of Redfield, there are three or four distinct benches, besides the intervale lands which are still subject to periodic overflow.
The highest of these benches has an elevation of nearly forty feet above the river, and forms a level plain about half a mile wide.
Upon it are several oblong mounds eight to ten feet high. These mounds are composed of gravel, and are subtantially of the same material as the terraces on which they rest. They were probably formed when the waters of the river occupied a higher level, and were thrown up as gravel bars when this bench formed the flood-plain.
There are two other terraces just below this one, with elevations respect- ively ten to fifteen and twenty feet above the river.
The higher and best defined benches are composed chiefly of coarse gravel and sand, while the lower ones, or intervale bottoms, are principally made up of finer sand and sediment washed down and deposited by the annual freshets.
Those tearaces occupy the wide recess formed by the junction of the two rivers in this vicinity, and greatly enhance the beauty of Redfield's sit- uation.
There is another series of such terraces, though not so regular and beau- tifully defined, in the valley of the North Raccoon. Adel is built partly
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upon the higher of these benches, which is twenty to thirty feet above the river, and all are composed of pretty much the same material as those already described.
Similar formations are also found in the northern part of the county, where the valley presents three or four benches remarkable for their grace- ful conformation. The intervales or alluvial lands are limited in extent, being entirely confined to the narrow belt immediately bordering the streams, and are mainly important for the forest growth they support.
Coal-measures .- The only consolidated strata found in the county belong to the coal-measures underlying its entire area. The portions of these strata, as seen at the surface, comprise the upper beds of the lower coal formation, the entire thickness of the middle formation, with the lower beds of the upper coal-measure. These latter appear only in the southwest part of the county.
The Lower Coal Formation occupies the larger portion of the northern half of the county.
On the South Raccoon its upper beds crop out to view over a limited area, partly hemmed in by the succeeding strata of the middle coal-measure. This area possibly has an intimate connection with the similar border out- crops of the middle coal-measure in the counties to the southeastward.
On the Middle Raccoon, a short distance below Redfield, on section 9, township 78, range 29, a bed of coal nearly three feet thick crops out in the banks and evidently belongs to this formation. It is doubtless the equivalent of the bed now so extensively mined at Des Moines, differing only in that it has a less number of clay partings. The products of this bed are of fair average quality, and its value will increase in proportion to the increasing demand for mineral fuel in this section. This bed, how- ever, rapidly disappears beneath the river to the westward as does also the one on South Raccoon below Redfield.
On the right bank of the river at " hanging rock ", a short distance above the mine, the sandstone forms an abrupt and picturesque bluff about forty- five feet high, where the shales and sandstone overlying the coal are best seen.
At Newport mills on South Raccoon, half a mile southeast of the Red- field mine, some ten feet of micaceous sandstone is exposed, which corres- ponds with similar deposits underlying the coal-bed at Des Moines, indi- cating that a similar bed exists in the adjacent bluffs on the right side of the river, and also on the north side of the valley, which possibly may be reached by shafting.
In the valley of the North Raccoon there are but one or two exposures of lower coal strata at present known, and these are comparatively unim- portant.
A thin seam of this coal has been found in section 16, township 81, range 28, on a branch, near J. H. Roberts. Another similar exposure of a four-inch coal-seam occurs on the left bank of the river, in section 17, township 81, range 28, on the land of Hiram Harper, and a heavier bed is said to out- crop in the bed of the river at that place, as is indicated by the fragments of coal being washed out and deposited on the sand bars by the freshets.
It is altogether probable that other and workable coal-beds of a similar character will be found in this part of the county, but they are doubtless buried quite deeply under the drift.
Very few fossil remains have been found in any of the strata of the lower
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HISTORY OF DALLAS COUNTY.
coal-measures; but such animal remains as have been found are almost invariably of marine origin.
Middle Coal Formation .- This is the prevailing formation in the county, and probably embraces in its outcrops nearly one-half of the area of the county.
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