USA > Iowa > Dallas County > The History of Dallas County, Iowa, containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c. > Part 38
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"The cabin is now ready to go into. The household and kitchen furniture is adjusted, and life on the frontier is begun in earnest.
" The one-legged bedstead, now a piece of furniture of the past, was made by cutting a stick the proper length, boring holes at one end, one-and-a-half inches in diamater at right angles, and the same sized holes corresponding with these in the logs of the cabin the length and breadth desired for the bed, in which are inserted poles.
" Upon these poles clapboards are laid, or linn bark is interwoven consec- utively from pole to pole. Upon this primitive structure the bed is laid. The convenience of a cook stove was not thought of then, but instead the
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cooking was done by the faithful housewife in pots, kettles and skillets, on and about the big fire place, and very frequently over and around, too, the distended pedal members of the legal sovereigns of the household while the latter were indulging in the luxury of a cob pipe, and discussing the probable results of a contemplated elk hunt up and about Walled Lake. These log cabins were really not so bad after all.
"We have seen a good deal of solid comfort about them which, we pre- sume to say, in many cases money could not purchase for the millionaire. Still, as 'contentment is happiness,' wherever one is the other must fol- low, as a matter of course, whatever may be the condition or location in life."
A PIONEER MILL.
The first water-power grist mill built west of the Red Rock reservation line in Iowa, was built and run by John D. Parmelee, on Middle River, in Warren county, some ten or fifteen miles southeast of Fort Des Moines.
It was both a saw and grist mill and, for a long time, made the ineal, flour and lumber for all the region now included in Warren, Madison, Polk and Dallas counties, and sometimes for settlers living even in more distant parts.
To a good extent, this mill, on account of its convenient location and ca- pacity for grinding, stopped the rush of travel to Oskaloosa from these parts, especially of all those who had found it necessary to go there for milling purposes and breadstuffs; and being the only mill in all these parts as a consequence it was crowded night and day with anxious customers, each desiring to get liis grist done first so as to return home.
On account of the great rush of work it had to do, and possibly because it was not built and run altogether in the most systematic and commenda- ble manner, this mill finally got so completely out of repairs that they were compelled to stop running it. This brought a sad state of affairs for the settlers in the communities and country around about, who were now in the habit of getting all their grinding and sawing done at this place.
Something must be done to put it in running order again so as to accom- modate the customers.
Finally Judge L. D. Burnes, the pioneer mill-wright, was sent for to put it to rights again, and after a two weeks siege of as thorough repairing as the circumstances and conveniences would permit the mill was again found in running order, to the delight of the owner and the eminent satisfaction of his numerous and dependent customers.
With regard to this circumstance the judge gives the following interest- ing account:
"The miller, poor Mordecai Disney, seemed to be overwhelmed with trouble, at times, to know what to do amid the babble around him, and this deserving class of people are apt to get, as a general thing, more curs- ings than blessings anyhow.
" Poor Disney had learned to make the most of his position under ordi- nary pressure, but this was rather too much for his trained equanimity, and he would get off, now and then, some of the most chilling expletives that we ever heard.
" This mill was finally run down with constant overwork and no care, and and it became so relaxed that it stopped business altogether. This was a
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terrible blow to the settlers, as its stoppage implied the going away off to Oskaloosa for breadstuff's.
" Several machinists were called in but the patient got worse and worse. We were finally called to the sick bed of this frontier mill in consultation. We found the patient completely prostrated, its nervous system was sadly out of sorts. We administered alteratives and cardiacs.
" The patient, under this radical treatment, and in the course of two weeks, got entirely well and was ready to go to work again with increased vitality.
" But, alas! when we were ready to try the ability of the convalescent mill to eat corn, we were brought to realize the fact that
" ' Life is a drama of a few brief acts, The actors shift, the scene is often changed. Pauses and revolutions intervene, The mind is set to many and varied tune And jars and plays in harmony by turns.'
"John D. Parmelee was not in calling distance to come and see the ex-pa- tient survive.
" John had put in most of his time, during the sickness and convalescence of the mill, up at the Fort as a zealous votary of the fiery god Bacchus. The excellent woman and wife, Mrs. Parmelee, sent Jack, an old bachelor domestic, to go up to the Fort and bring John D. home to 'see the mill start.' Jack went, but delayed his coming. Another messenger was sent by the good woman to hasten Jack's return.
"The second messenger found John D. and Jack on a protracted 'bust,' deaf to all entreaty. John refused to come home to 'see the mill start.' The second messenger, too, was soon overcome by the furious god, and joined in the debauch. The miller, Mordecai Disney, was finally sent up to the Fort to bring back the three loyal disciples of jolly John Barleycorn. He was successful, and John D. saw 'the mill start' out with new life and vigor, to his perfect satisfaction, muttering all the while to himself:
" 'There is a tide in the affairs of men Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune; Omitted, all the voyage of their life Is bound in shallows and in miseries.'
"Suddenly. John D. yelled out at the top of his voice, 'See boys, how she chaws!'"
This mill, being again repaired and ready for effective service, was not long in regaining its former rush of custom from the citizens of the frontier who were anxiously waiting for this event, and the settlers of Dallas county for a long time got most of their milling done there, until others were erected and prepared for service nearer home.
Of course, at the very first, all sorts of means were resorted to for grind- ing and grating corn as the staple article of food; and not unfrequently it was boiled whole, and prepared in various ways which the ingenuity of the hungry ones would devise in the absence of better means.
Hand mills and horse mills of various kinds were also constructed and procured, some of which would serve for the accommodation of several families by turns.
One of these horse mills was constructed by Samuel Miller, and started in use December 24, 1846, being, perhaps, the first one of the kind in the
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county. It was called the "Stump Mill," as it had one small set of burrs prepared and fastened on a stump, and constituted a regular old-fashioned "corn cracker," run by horse power. The event of starting this mill afforded an occasion of a great Christmas jollification the next day among the settlers of that vicinity.
This little mill was a great convenience in that neighborhood, and did the corn grinding for many a pioneer home. In 1848 Mr. Miller sold it to Buel Lathrop, who moved the burrs up to his claim on Hickory creek, and built the first water mill for grinding corn in the county, using what he could of the old "stump mill" for its construction, and with it did some grinding for the surrounding community, but seems to have been too neg- ligent and too much occupied in advocating Mormonism to accomplish very much as a pioneer miller, so that his mill soon ran down and stopped grinding altogether. But a fuller account of this mill will be given fur- ther on, under proper date.
After this, both grist and saw mills gradually increased in number in the county until they became quite numerous, and milling privileges became reasonably convenient to most of these settlements.
GOING TO MILL.
Going to mill in those days, when there were no roads, no bridges, no ferry boats, and scarcely any conveniences for traveling, was no small task where so many rivers and treacherous streams were to be crossed, and such a trip was often attended with great danger to the traveler when these streams were swollen beyond their banks. But even under these circum- stances some of the more adventurous and ingenious ones, in cases of emergency, found the way and means by which to cross the swollen streams and succeed in making.the trip. At other times, again, all attempts failed them, and they were compelled to remain at home until the waters sub- sided, and depend on the generosity of their more fortunate neighbors.
One bold attempt of this kind, which failed of success, is described in the following account by Mr. Greene, in the Dallas County News:
"The Ellises had been on their claim but a few months when it became necessary to go to mill, for, thoughi hominy is a pretty good substitute for bread, the corn they brought with them was about out, and not only had they to go a hundred miles to mill, but they had first to work to buy the grain when there. It was common to be gone three or four weeks on such a trip. At the outset, in this case, Northi Raccoon, then 'out of its banks,' had to be crossed. They had as yet no ferry boat, not even a canoe, and wagons, yokes, chains and· camp furniture, had to be taken over on a log raft. The central current, too deep for setting poles, swept them a long way down stream. The wagon had thus been crossed and debarked in shallow water, the four oxen driven across, yoked and chained together, the 'traps' were being loaded upon the wagon, when the oxen, with bovine stubbornness and stupidity, took it into their heads to return. When they struck the main current, it swept them irresistibly down stream. They soon became entangled in their chains and the floodwood. Thus they struggled and strangled for several hours, till all but one gave up and seemed to have a through ticket for the Mississippi. 'Old Ben' (the boys, to this day, can scarcely refrain from both laughing and crying when they relate it) would paddle for the west bank whenever he came
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round in sight of it. They finally got fast in some drift, and made no ef- fort to get loose.
"Isaac Ellis (next younger than William) stripped and swam a long dis- tance to them, and with a pocket-knife he carried with him cut the bow keys, unyoked the oxen, and got them all safely to land.
"Late in the night, naked, hungry, tired and scratched, he called at the cabin for the boys to bring him out some clothes.
"Isaac Ellis will be remembered by those only who were here more than twenty years ago. About that time he went west of the Missouri, hunted with the Indians, and supplied for some time several stations of the over- land stage company with deer, buffalo, and other wild mneat. When last heard from he was with the Indians in British America.
"Of Wm. Ellis-sound, joyous, whole-souled Will-little need be said. Who that lived here within twenty-five years of the first settlement did not know him? Who has not shouted at his uproarous merriment? . Who was not gladdened by his constant cheerfulness? And let cynics say 'every man has his price' ; those who best knew the subject of these comments will point to him and answer, 'There's an honest man.'
" It is significant that the mother of this large family of boys says ' thee and thou.' "
INCIDENTS.
The above sketch will aid the reader in gaining some knowledge of the hardships and trials of the early pioneers, and of the difficulties and dan- gers under which they labored in order to gain an honest livelihood.
Some of the difficulties of traveling from place to place in those days, as also the unpleasantness and sometimes dangers attending their travels, are nicely illustrated by the following from the same writer: "In February, 1846, William Ellis and George Haworth set out to follow the Raccoon river on the ice, from Des Moines up to Stump's cabin, about twenty miles by land. After a hard day's travel (not less than twenty-five miles) they found themselves, at dusk, not more than half way. They now attempted to cross the country, but the dry weeds were so high and so dense that this was given up and they had to camp for the night. But they had neglected to take any matches with them, and the only alternative to an all night's travel was to ignite some dry grass by firing their guns into it.
"This was effected after the expenditure of a good deal of patience and powder, and they carried their fire to the timber, some half a mile away, where they spent the winter night with what comfort they could."
This was the first trip of these parties to Dallas county, when they came and laid their claims, as before mentioned, and soon afterward returned, and the following month moved out here with their folks and settled on their claims as before selected-Ellis on the land now owned and occupied by Joseph Otterman, and Haworth on what is now the Barto farm, or " Haworth Point"-and through life, doubtless, they will not forget that pioneer adventure.
Previous to this, however, some time in January of the same year, a no less singular, but rather more successful, expedition-so far as speed and ease in travel is concerned-was made up the same river road on the ice by John Wright, the frontier hunter, and his cousin, "Deaf Jim" Wright, in a one-horse "pung."
Of John Wright it is said: "His rifle and his bottle were his delight and
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consolation." He was brave and reckless, having little sympathy with the ways and customs of civilization; yet generous to a fault, always kind and true to his friends, but to his enemies, bitter, malignant and revengeful.
His cousin, " Deaf Jim," was the skilled mimic of the settlement, who had the power of so accurately personating various persons in their striking peculiarities, even on short acquaintance, that the subject was readily rec- ognized. He was, therefore, just the man for sport at a public gathering.
THE FIRST DEATH.
The first death of a white person in the county occurred in the winter of 1846-7; that of William Coffin, father of Greenbury Coffin, and father-in- law of John Wright.
The deceased was a blacksmith by trade, and though well along in years when he came here, faithfully worked at his anvil and forge set up on the open prairie until a shop was built, sharpening ploughshares, mending broken articles, and doing other small jobs of smithing, to assist in " earn- ing his bread by the sweat of his brow," and by the exercise of his strong right arm, until finally called away from labor to rest. He died in the Stump cabin, of old age, and was buried in the "Clayton grave-yard." in what is now Boone township.
The coffin, or box, in which he was buried, was made of puncheons split out of large logs, and dressed and fitted by Levi Wright, Noah Staggs and other neighboring settlers as best they could under the circumstances, and his remains were lovingly laid in their last resting place with decency and respect by the hands of those who had been friendly and true to him in life.
Thus this memorable Stump cabin was not only the first house built, but also was the place where the first death occurred in the county, and there- fore afforded both the first place of entertainment for the living, and prepa- ration of the dead for the silent tomb.
THE FIRST MARRIAGE.
This Stump cabin was also the home of the first white woman who lived in Dallas county. Early in the year 1846, perhaps in February, Miss Mary Stump came and kept house in it for her three brothers, until their father, Henry Stump, and the rest of his family came on soon afterward.
She has the honor, also, of being the first white woman married in the county, and hers was the first marriage ceremony performed within the county limits.
She was united in marriage with George Haworth, on the second day of September, 1847, by J. C. Corbell, Esq., who was the first justice of the peace to perform such a ceremony in the county, and this was his first ex- perience in that line.
Whether this marriage occurred in the Stump cabin, or in the new hewed log house of the bride's father, we have not been able to ascertain defi- nitely.
The bride and groom were of even ages, each twenty-four years, and were nearly of like dates as early settlers of the county, as Mr. Haworth also came early in 1846, and settled within the present limits of Van Meter town- ship, where he and his affianced bride lived in prosperity and comfort until a few years ago, they moved to a new home, about two miles north of Adel.
Their old homestead is now known as the John Barto farm.
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They are still living, each past the age of fifty-five, well entered on the decline of life; and while now gone on a trip to Oregon, with gratitude, can look back over more than thirty-one years of married felicity and pros- perity passed in Dallas county, Iowa.
THE SPORTS AND CUSTOMS
Of the early settlers were not so numerous and varied as at present, but they were no less enjoyable and interesting.
Hunters now-a-days would be only too glad to be able to find and enjoy their favorable opportunities for hunting and fishing; and even travel hun- dreds of miles sometimes, counting it rare pleasure to spend a few weeks. among the lakes, and on the wild prairies and woodlands, in hunt and chase, and fishing frolics, where not half so good hunting and fishing sport was furnished as was in this vicinity twenty-five or thirty years ago. There were a good many excellent hunters here at an early day, too, who enjoyed the sport as well as any can at the present.
Wild amimals of various kinds were found Here in abundance during the time of the early settlement. The prairies, and woods, and streams, and various bodies of water, were all thickly inhabited by more than Indians before, and even for some time after the white man came.
Deer, turkeys, ducks, geese and various other kinds of choice game were plentiful, affording freely and at the expense of killing what are now con- sidered the choice and costly dishes in the restaurants. The fur animals also, were abundant, such as the otter, beaver, mink, muskrat, raccoon, pan- ther, fox, wolf, wild-cat and bear.
Deer and elk were quite numerous on these prairies for some time after the first settlements were made. These various kinds of game afforded not only pleasure, but profit for those among the early settlers who were lovers of hunt and chase; and skillful hunters were not scarce in those days in proportion to the number of inhabitants. Many interesting incidents and daring adventures occurred in connection with these hunting excursions, which the old settlers who still remain seem never tired of relating. It is difficult to reproduce these scenes now, and present the incidents with their original "pith and point" as those most intimately connected with them have nearly all passed away, and these stories must have passed through many minds and mouths before reaching us, and therefore have become. more or less colored in passing, so that as related now they might not be- easily recognized as the same stories by the original actors.
In point, we quote a part of an article on "old times," as published in The Dallas County News, February 2d, 1876, at that time published by S. H. Greene, which will give some idea of the customs and sports of the early settlers.
"The capture of elk calves was, in those early days, a favorite pastime, or business, rather, for there were visions of wealth to be derived from their- sale. In these adventures John Wright was the natural leader and captain. The outfit consisted of teams and covered wagons sufficient to convey pro- visions, camp equipage, etc., and to bring liome the proceeds of the chase. Cows were taken along to furnish milk for the young elk; sometimes the expedition would be gone a month or more. From Greene county to the head-waters of 'Coon was the favorite hunting ground. The hunting was done on horseback. And first the old elk must be found, which was done
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by looking over the surrounding country from some high point and then with the aid of dogs to thoroughly search thereabout for the hidden calves. These were usually found in the tall grass surrounding the ponds that so abound in that part of the State. When the calf found that he was observed he would spring from his hiding place and run with the speed of a race horse, and if two or three weeks old it took good 'bottom' to overtake him in those bogs and ponds. Many a good farm horse was ruined in the effort; rarely a very young calf was captured by springing upon it in its bed.
"On one of these excursions John Wright saw some dark object at a distance and determined to interview it. It proved to be a half grown black bear. It fled. Wright gave chase, and coming up with it, he aimed, by a flying leap from his horse to grapple with and prevent its escape. As our hero came down, Bruin turned and received him in a cordial embrace. He was now in his element and glory, and after a protracted struggle, in which one of his hands was badly lacerated, besides getting sundry smaller bites and scratches, he bound his captive and took him in triumph into camp; and subsequently, on his way home, he passed through Adel with this pet and a score or more of young elk. The last known of John Wright he was on his way to the Far West.
" These elk sadly disappointed us all. Theoretically they were most use- ful domestic animals, for the shambles, for the plow and cart, carriage and course, possibly for the dairy-why not? As thus: in size and form, in hoof and horn, they were own cousins to the reindeer-that indispensable adjunct to arctic humanity. Their speed and bottom had been proven in many a hard half day's heat; their beef was as that of the ox. They could winter where the mule would freeze or starve, and so easily domesticated! -take a young one that never saw the face of man, carry it in your arms a hundred yards and it would follow you through water or fire. But they turned out unmitigated nuisances. They would neither work nor play. The trial was fair and conclusive. In the spring of 1851 much valuable time which had else been devoted to ' seven-up,' euchre and kindred in- dustries, was spent in Adel, in breaking them to harness and saddle; and Elisha Morris, then well known in sporting circles, harnessed a span of two- year old bucks to a light buggy and started for some eastern emporium where it was thought the unique turn-out would command bags of gold. Eight days' drive took him to Oskaloosa, where he was fain to swap the whole rig for a horse that he sold for some eighty dollars. His verdict was, 'they won't work; they are too much like a d-d Indian.' They were utterly lawless, going without let or hindrance into field and garden, and doing mischief out of sheer wantonness. They seemed aware that a horse, not familiar with them, would stampede at sight. They would curve the neck, throw up their 'huge horns, set the hair forward and snort to increase the fright. Runaways from this cause were frequent. At certain seasons of the year the males were as dangerous as mad bulls. A son of Dr. Rush, at Des Moines, was attacked by one, his abdomen ripped open so that his bowels protruded; the boy recovered-the brute was destroyed. ' Sic transit gloria' elk. O. S."
Fish .- The streams and lakes, also, afforded fish in great variety and abundance, which were caught by quantities in extemporized traps by the early settlers, and were feasted on by them with a relish.
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These fish traps were generally considered as public property, and when once established in good working order they secured a bountiful supply of choice fish, of which the neighboring settlers partook in common. One of these traps was located on the shallow just below the site of J. H. War- rington's mill, in Sugar Grove township, and proved a success in catching fish for the entire community. Sometimes as high as one hundred and fifty fine fish have been taken in at one time.
Another of these traps was located at Rocky Ford, on the Middle Rac- coon river just above Isaac Fee's farm, in what is now Linn township. This one supplied all that community with fresh fish in abundance. So also there were several other similar ones in various localities extempo- rized by the early settlers, as the occasion required, and placed in the most suitable location for the convenience of all concerned .. There being no mill-dams then on the streams to muddy the water or prevent the fish from coming up the channels, the water was so clear and the fish so plentiful that they were easily secured by the settlers going out in canoes and dug- outs and spearing them. In this way great quantities were caught, afford- ing both pleasure and satisfaction to the fishermen.
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