USA > Iowa > Warren County > The history of Warren County, Iowa, containing a history of the county, its cities, towns, &c., a biographical directory of its citizens, war record of its volunteers in the late rebellion, general and local statistics &c > Part 34
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When the last barrier of restraint was thus removed, the tide of emigra- tion, so long held in check, began to come in at a rapid rate over these prairies, and thus it has continued to roll wave after wave in rapid succes- sion until it has reached the western shore, carrying with it the energy and talents and enterprise of nations, and washing to the surface the gold from
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the mountains and valleys on the Pacific slope, and has enveloped our land in the mighty main of enterprise and civilization; while the hapless Indian, driven by the advancing tide from shore to shore over this mighty conti- nent, is caught at last in the billows and drifts with the tide, clinging only to the floating driftwood of his own shattered bark of barbarism and superstition as his last faint hope before being lost in the surges and sunk in oblivion.
And thus he soon will perish to be remembered only as a historic name, unless rescued from his uncivilized savage condition by omnipotent power, through the humble instrumentality of human sympathy and christian love.
After the way had thus been opened by that ever-mnemorable Indian treaty, emigration began at once to spread rapidly toward the northwest along the borders of the Des Moines and Raccoon rivers, and claim after claim was taken, cabin after cabin was erected, settlement after settlement was made by pioneer emigrants, who quickly occupied the highlands west of the Fort, and continued gradnally venturing out still farther into the newly-vacated wilds, settling here and there in the edges of the woodlands which skirted the Raccoon river, until in the early spring of 1846 its forks were reached and passed, and the enterprising sound of the white inan's ax was heard echoing from every side, as with busy stroke he felled the trees and prepared the logs for his humble cabin home.
Before many days had passed the curling smoke was seen rising through the tree tops from many such hopeful, happy pioneer homes in this western wild; and within those rustic walls were found thankful hearts, cheerful faces, welcome voices and liberal hospitality, which displayed on every side an air of contentment and prosperity, and made " assurance doubly sure" that the great work of the settlement and cultivation of this fertile land was actually begun by the white pioneer, even within the present territory of Warren county, and that it would be thoroughly carried on to the west- ern border.
GEOGRAPHY-DESCRIPTIVE AND PHYSICAL.
Warren county may be described generally as a well watered, fertile region, interspersed with a plentiful supply of timber. Its principal attractions are agricultural, and it is for these that it has pre-eminent fit- ness, but the past few years have developed its mineral resources in such a marked degree that they now bear no insignificant proportion to the whole, especially when it is borne in mind they are of comparatively recent devel- opment. The county is laid out with the rectangular boundaries which distinguish the great majority of the counties of the West, since the adop- tion of the present system of congressional townships. It lies in the extreme south of the region known as. Central Iowa, and is two tiers of counties from the line between Missouri and Iowa, four from the Missouri river and five from the Mississippi. It is situated in latitude 40 degrees 30 minutes north, and in longitude 16 degrees 40 minutes west from Washington. It is divided into sixteen townships. Several of them, are not, however, the congressional township of thirty-six square miles, but are variable, owing to the wants or whims of the early settlers, and modified by the system of water-courses in which the county abounds. It is not quite square, owing to the fact that a few miles on the north side of the Des Moines were permitted to remain attached to Polk county upon the
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HISTORY OF WARREN COUNTY.
final adjustment of boundaries between them. Its townships, beginning with the northeast corner, are as follows: Richland, Allen, Greenfield, Linn, Jefferson, Washington, Palmyra, Union, Belmont, Otter, White Oak, Jackson, Virginia, Squaw, Liberty and White Breast. It contains abont 571 square miles, or 365,440 acres. The elevation of the county is, gene- rally speaking, high, although much of the best land for agriculture and grazing purposes lies in the valleys of the streams which penetrate into its every part. Some portion of these bottom lands is liable to overflow, but not to that extent now as in the early history of the county.
The soil over the county is unexceptionally fertile, consists almost uni- formly of a fine black loam. However, in the northeastern townships some portions of the uplands have been dennded of the original drift-soil, expos- ing at the surface, over more or less limited tracts, the shales of the lower coal-measures, from which are derived the light-colored, clayey and sandy soils which are so frequently met with in the near vicinity of the Des Moines river. The underlying deposits of mottled clays, sand and gravel, are here somewhat thinner than in the counties farther northward. Like the soil proper, they are thin and sometimes wanting altogether along the acclivities bordering the valleys, leaving the rock exposed, or covered only by a thin layer of debris. Descending to the valleys, the soil is found to be composed of fine alluvial deposits occupying nearly their entire width, gravelly elevations or terraces very seldom occurring.
The modified portion of the dritt is not as well marked in this region as it is in others, and the terrace formations are inconspicuous features in the conformation of the valleys. In this respect the valleys may be said to possess characteristics, in greater or less degree, peculiar to them, and which are applicable, also, to nearly all the streams that flow into the Des Moines river, upon its right bank, between the confluence of the Raccoon river and the intersection of the Missouri State line. The present flood- plains are invariably composed of fine alluvial deposits, which occupy nearly the entire width of the valleys. It is very seldom we see in this region those high, well-marked, gravelly terraces, or second bottoms, which occur along the streams of Northern Iowa. The absence of these interest- ing formations is probably due to the streams having eroded their beds into the rocky strata, which has resulted in the denudation or removal of the surface deposits, from which the terraces derived their materials, to a much greater extent than would take place in a region where the streams rest in great part, or wholly, in the dritt formation. Boulders are seldom met with upon the uplands, but in the ravines they have accumulated in considerable quantities. Masses of partially abraded red quartzite occur in these depos- its with usual granite and gneiss boulders prevalent in the drift. Upon some of the uplands a fine, light-colored clay deposit, containing scarcely any coarse materials, is not unfrequently met with, the origin of which is- difficult to determine.
The Des Moines river forms the north boundary of the north town- ship, where it receives all the Three Rivers within a distance of eight miles. Although the mouths of these streams are so near together, their courses diverge in a westerly and south-westerly direction, draining one of the finest regions in the State, embracing an area of about fifteen hundred square miles, and with the exception of the south-east township which is watered by Whitebreast creek, the entire surface of the county is drained by the " Three Rivers " and their small affluents. The valleys of these
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rivers are similar to one another, embracing narrow tracts of bottom land, and bordered by more or less gentle acclivities from seventy-five to two hundred feet in height. The valley sides are almost always steepest upon the right, or sonth, margin, the north side usually ascending more gradually to the uplands. The uplands between the streams are, generally, gently undulating in the eastern portion of the county, but in the western half, in the region of the middle coal-measures, the divides ascend more abruptly from the valleys, and in some sections the surface is quite rolling, though not what may be called broken. The divides between North river and the Raccoon, and between North and Middle rivers are frequently beautiful tracts of undulating prairie, interspersed with frequent natural groves, intersected by numerous small streams and shallow ravines, which make the drainage of the region very thorough. In the southwestern por- tion of the county the uplands are rolling, but the only sections of the county that approach a positively broken character are parts of some of the southern townships and a limited area on Wolf creek, a branch of the Whitebreast. Warren county is the culminating point of the "Three River country " and the development of soil and minerals which it seems to be the mission of these streams to carry with them here reaches its greatest perfection.
They rise in the region occupied by the upper coal-measure limestone formation, flow eastward over the middle coal-measures, and enter the valley of the Des Moines upon the lower coal-measures. They are of nearly the same size, and run parallel to each other within a few miles distance. Their general direction in this county is northeast, and they all pour their waters into the Des Moines within the limits of this county, with the exception of South river, the mouth of which is one mile from the eastern line, in Marion county. Their names are derived from their relative posi- tions to one another.
North river takes its rise in Guthrie county, and, after passing through the northeast corner of Adair, enters Madison about six miles south of the northwest corner, and runs from west to east, passing into Warren county almost on the line of Jefferson and Linn townships, flowing across a small corner of the former, and leaving a considerable portion of the latter on its southern side; thence into and through Greenfield and Allen, emptying into the Des Moines just north of the limits of the latter township. Its volume and rapidity are sufficient to afford very good power for mannfac- turing and milling purposes, although, since steam power became such a factor in the developed country, water-power has become less important, and has, as a consequence, 'been permitted to decline. The average dis- tance of North river from the north line of the county is about three miles. The two principal branches of North river in this county are Badger creek, which rises in Madison county and flows through a portion of Linn town- ship, and Middle Branch, which rises in the extreme northwestern corner of Linn township, and runs in a general southwesterly direction into North river in Greenfield township.
Middle river also rises in Guthrie county, and, after passing through Adair and Madison, enters Warren at almost the center on the west line and flows in a southeasterly direction through the entire county, watering six townships on its course. It is the largest and deepest of the three rivers. Its only important branch in this county is Clanton's creek, which rises in Madison county and flows into Middle river in Jefferson township. This
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stream took its name from the Clanton brothers who were the first settlers upon its banks.
South river rises in the northwest corner of Clarke county, and is, there- fore, the shortest river of the three, but it is distinguished by watering and draining a greater portion of the county than either of the others because of its numerous branches. The principal of these are Squaw creek, which flows principally through Squaw and White Oak townships, and Otter creek, which is confined to Liberty and Otter townships.
All the foregoing relates to the Three Rivers and their tributaries. Aside from these are Butcher creek, which rises in Palmyra township, and flows in a northeasterly direction through Richland township into the Des Moines river; Cole creek, which rises in Union township and flows out of the county about the center of its east line; and Whitebreast creek, which flows through the township of the same name, and into which flow Wolf and Cotton creeks which drain and water that portion of the county.
The Des Moines, which receives water from almost the entire county, flows along its northeast corner for about seven miles, but the south mar- gin of the stream, which constitutes the line of this county, is generally bluffy, or where there is bottom land it is covered with a heavy growth of timber.
It will thus be seen that Warren county is one of the best watered and drained regions of the State, in fact it is doubtful whether any other county in the State lias an equal number of running streams within its borders. The three rivers which form the basis of its running water system, pene- trate into twelve townships, and all the others have streams of fresh water running through themn; and even farther, there is, perhaps, not a section of land in the entire county which is not so supplied.
No better advertisement could well be given the county for stock-raising and agricultural purposes than the statement of the fact that with its fertile prairies and valuable timber belts, it is also well supplied with living water, and thoroughly drained, so as to readily and safely dispose of the greatest freshets during the rainy seasons. Stock-raising is a remarkably safe spec- ulation in all parts of Iowa, and especially so in Warren county.
As is always the case where the stratified rocks are near the surface springs are numerous, and they send forth water of a delicious and healthful char- acter.
In fact nearly all the rivers and running streams within the county bounds seem to be fed principally by living springs issuing out of the bluffs, and ravines, and gravel beds all along their banks. They are so numerous and close together in places along the river as to present the appearance of one continuons sheet of water running down the side of the bank into the chan- nel, as if pressed out from a spongy spring-bed beneath by the immense weight of earth above. At other places they appear springing up and gnsh- ing out near the water's edge, or back in the ravines, sometimes at great distances from the river; and even well up on the sides of the bluffs fine springs are often seen boiling out and rippling down in crystal streams of clear cold water, and hurrying on to pay their tribute to the rivers. Many of them never freeze up or go dry.
In most localities throughout the county good well water is easily ob- tained, at a moderate depth below the surface, in great abundance. Even on the high lands good wells are secured at a depth of from twelve to twenty feet, which furnish an almost unfailing supply of clear, cold water.
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HISTORY OF WARREN COUNTY.
Less frequently it becomes necessary to dig thirty and forty feet, and oc- casionally deeper before meeting with the same results, accordingly as the well-digger is fortunate in starting in the right place to strike a good vein. Here, as in other localities, of course, these water-veins underground vary greatly in depth, and sometimes only a few rods from a good well fifteen or twenty feet deep, it may become necessary to dig twice or three times the distance in order to find plenty of water again, and vice versa, so that it is difficult to give an average of depth. But in this county, as a general thing, plenty of good well water is inore easily obtained than in mnost places throughout the State, and though sometimes it is necessary to go down to quite a depth, the excellent quality of water secured - clear as a crystal - well repays the digging.
The county, very fortunately, has comparatively few of those unapproach- able sloughs and tracts of swamp lands so often found on extensive prairies. The sloughs throughout the county are generally a good distance apart, leaving a broad strip of well drained farming land on either side. They are mostly broad and level, with sufficient fall to carry off the drainage and prevent water standing in them very long, while their channels do not wash deep narrow drains in the center as is the case in many other places. The greater portion of the slough lands in the county could be easily drained and made tillable. They would then become some of the most productive farming lands in the county, and would still answer the same purpose of drainage for which they are now prized, at the same time producing abun- dant yields of hay and other products. In some places they spread out in the shape of broad, level bottom lands, gradually widening and sloping down toward the valleys of the neighboring rivers or other running streams. The soil of these slough lands is fertile and easily tilled when once drained and broken.
The forest growths at present are mainly along the larger watercourses, where considerable bodies of timber are found, consisting of the varieties common to Central Iowa. Approaching the Des Moines river the timber increases in quantity, and in many places it has encroached upon the uplands to so considerable an extent as to give to those portions of the county the character of a heavily wooded district. Ascending the streams the forests become more and more circumscribed, and are, finally, on the smaller streams, wholly confined to the valleys. In the southwestern por- tion of the county the uplands present uninterrupted prairie surfaces which stretch away to the southwest, merging into the great prairie of the water- shed divide in Clarke county.
The belts of local timber will supply all local needs for many years to come. The tendency is now, and has been for some years, to limit rather than enlarge the area of timber land. The timber of the county is well distributed and conveniently located to the prairie and farming lands, so as to be easily accessible from almost any locality within its boundaries.
Beautiful groves are dotted here and there, some of them occupying quite elevated positions, and others bordering on the low lands, which tend to relieve the monotony and dreary aspect so prevalent on our broad, bleak western prairies.
There are a great many varieties of timber found, such as oak, hickory, sycamore, walnut, hackberry, lind, elm, sugar maple, soft maple, cotton- wood, swamp ash, and in some localities white ash, etc. Along the river bottoms and low lands it chiefly abonnds in the soft woods with a moderate
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HISTORY OF WARREN COUNTY.
per cent of hard wood trees occurring among them more or less frequently in different localities, while along the higher banks and bluff lands are found the more valuable hard woods suitable for fencing and building pur- poses.
In many places the best of the hard woods of the older growth have been culled out, and in others pretty thoroughly cleared off. to supply the needs of settlers, thus leaving only the less valuable soft woods. But the second growth is rapidly increasing, and is furnishing, as an average, a better quality of timber than that which preceded, and it is estimated that the increase in growth will exceed the annual waste and consumption for all purposes; so that there need be no fear of the citizens suffering from want of fuel, and fencing, and shelter, especially since coal and lumber are becoming so plentiful and cheap, are found almost at their very doors; and since about one-tenth of the entire county consists of good timber lands to be had at reasonable prices.
Even those who were born and reared in a timber country, and who have spent their prime of life in the woods, can find here a timber home quite congenial to their nature, and also joining this they can secure, for as large a family as they choose to raise, a fertile tract of farining land, all grubbed and cleared and ready for the plow, which, with a moderate amount of labor and judicious management, will furnish a comfortable home and liberal income as the reward of faithful industry and prudence.
In these days, however, timber land is not in such high estimation as formerly, since railroad facilities have rendered fuel, and fencing, and building material so cheap. Consequently the opportunities to purchase are increased and the price decreased somewhat, as a general thing.
Prairie is the prevailing characteristic of the county. It is abundant in quantity and mostly all excellent in quality.
In so large a tract there must always be some that is of an inferior qual- ity. However, there is a comparatively small per cent of poor prairie land in this county, and among so much that is good it is a difficult task to des- ignate that which is best. On nearly all the divides between the rivers and running streams are found large tracts of beautiful, rolling prairie lands, well drained, easily cultivated, highly productive, and conveniently located to water and timber, and mills and markets.
The character of the soil, heretofore spoken of, is such that a failure of crops from dry weather is unknown. The soil is light and porous, so that ten hours of bright sunshine will dry the roads after a heavy rain. About the only difference to be noted in the different sections of the county is that in the southern part the soil has more of a sandy element.
The Climate is healthful, invigorating and pleasant for this latitude, both winter and summer. The winters are generally long, with rather an even temperature, sometimes changing quite suddenly from cold to warm and back again to extremely cold weather within a few days. But these sudden changes are the exception rather than the general rule, so the citi- zens soon become accustomed to them, and consider it not half a winter without them. This region is subject to an average and occasionally a heavy fall of snow during the winter season, which is usually accompanied by sharp, healthful frosts. But as a general thing the mercury remains above zero, seldom reaching more than twelve or fifteen degrees below, and very rarely falling to twenty and twenty-five degrees below zero.
During the winter the roads generally remain dry, there being usually
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but little rain. Snow seldom falls, of late years, to a greater depth than six inches. It is much drifted, however, by the winds. The climate is generally esteemed no more rigorous than in the Eastern States of the same latitude.
Strong, sharp, chilling winds sweep over the broad prairies and down the valleys during the winter and early spring months, but these become mod- ified to gentle, bracing, welcome breezes during the later spring, summer, autumn, and early fall months; and within the past few years the winters have become greatly modified from the reputed coldness of earlier days to the milder temperature of a more sonthern clime, so that many of the older settlers having become accustomed to exposure in driving storms and blus- tery weather during the hardships of frontier life, rather incline to look upon these open, mild winters as intruders, coming out of season and out of place, and they begin to "long for the good old days of yore," when neighbors must become congenial and accommodating in order to keep from freezing or starving to death, and when storm-staid strangers will be made welcome guests at the fireside. The later spring, summer and autumn months are generally delightful and salubrious.
The prairie winds, which become mild and almost constant, are fresh and bracing, regulating the temperature and purifying the atmosphere.
During the months of July and August they sometimes seem rather mild and motionless, allowing the sun's rays to beam down unhindered for a while, and to occupy the field with almost undisputed sway, thus producing a few days of hot, sweltering harvest weather, which cause the citizens to place something of a proper estimate on the value and usefulness of the county's beautiful shade trees and excellent water. Then these few sultry summer days are soon followed by a glorious " Indian summer " of balmy autumn days, which are aptly fitted to brighten the pathway and "cheer the heart of man." The county has rain and wet weather enough to water the crops and produce a healthy growth of vegetation.
The health of the Warren county people is usually very good, although they die liere as elsewhere. Ague is practically unknown in these later days, and there are no climatic diseases peculiar to the county, so that the repeal of the quinine duty had little practical effect in this county, and will not be made the one issne in any canvass in this county. The early settlers on the river bottoms would have welcomed it, but for practical results it is now nseless.
Although the early settlers found considerable wild fruit in the timbered regions of the county, they accepted without question the belief that the county was not well adapted to fruit-raising. Experience has proven this to be a great error. Tame or grafted fruits of equal liardihood have been found to flourish as well as the wild fruits. Among the wild fruits found in the timber belts were several varieties of plums of excellent flavor. The large yellow plum was often from three to three and one-half inches in diameter, and it was as luscious to the taste as any of the tame plums. Grapes, crab apple, wild cherry, currants, gooseberries, blackberries, straw -. berries, raspberries, black and red haws, and other fruits of the same char- acter were also found. The butternnt, walnnt and hickory trees bear well, and hazelnuts are abundant. It is along the river bottoms that the fruit flourishes best. Crab apples are frequently as large as a hen's egg.
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