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F 752 . C9 B55 Copy 1
History
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Juster Omity Jaho
By Jesse R. Black
11
F752 C9B55
PRESENTED TO THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS AUGUST 30, 1960
THE STATE OF IDAHO CONDUCTED' A CONTEST FOR ALL HIGH SCHOOL SENIORS TO WRITE A HISTORY OF THEIR OWN COUNTY. DR. BLACK WON THE $5 FIRST PRIZE MONEY WITH THIS HISTORY WHILE HE WAS A SENIOR AT THE CHALLIS HIGH SCHOOL, CHALLIS, CUSTER COUNTY, IDAHO.
61-37617
Material for this treatise has been secured from The Challis Messenger, and verified by Thomas Jose of Challis. Many other pioneers have contributed and verified. dates and occurrences.
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SEP 2 8 1960
1
HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
Custer County was formed in 1880 from the counties of Boise, Idaho, Alturas and Lemhi, and was named in honor of General Custer, famous because of his part in the Indian fight known as "Custer's Last Stand." It is located in central Idaho, with the county seat at Challis, so placed by popular vote in June, 1881. Challis won from Bonanza and Crystal by a majority of 19 votes, the latter being the closest. Many things have hap- pened within the bounds of this county, of which no history has ever been written.
Probably the earliest events recorded deal with Indian troubles, a condition which is typical of all early history. It is said that H. F. Powell, while hunting, saw bones, but paid no attention to them. Later when Mr. Harlard discovered them, he, by curiosity, picked up one of the skulls and noticed that some of the teeth had gold filling. This at once convineed him that the hones were those of white men, and he began an examination of the ground in that vicinity. Mr. Harland was not long in finding more skeletons. Only three could be found at first. Two were near together, in a hole, where, from all appearances, the fight took place. The third was found some rods from the others, and near it was a gun barrel, consider- ably bent. This is reasonable evidence that the owner was endeavoring to escape and. being overtaken, fought a good fight in his efforts to stand off his assailants. The barrel of one of the other guns was bent also, as if it. too, had beer. in a hand-to-hand encounter. The guns were all "muzzle-loaders" -one a common rifle and the other of the pattern used by the army prior to the adoption of the "hrcech-loaders." One bears the stamp on the lock, "C. S. A. '61;" the other was a Harper's Ferry musket with the date of 1831.
Mr. Harland reported his discovery on his return to Challis and a party went out to examine the battle-field and to gather up the remains. Other relics of a hard fought battle were found scattered around, such as gun- caps, rifle balls, a cap box, a fragment of cloth resembling corduroy, and the butt of a pistol. There were also several steel arrow heads picked up near the skeletons, and broken and decaying arrow shafts, as well as a broken bow. There has been nothing as yet that throws any light what- ever on the terrible tragedy that occurred in that lonely camp years ago. Some of the party who assisted in gathering up the remains are of the be-
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
lief that the unfortunate ones who composed the ill-fated expedition were killed by the Indians.
There is more than ordinary interest attached to this discovery. Aside from the mystery connected with the destruction of the outfit, there is added that not unreasonable belief that there was a woman in the party. After making an examination of the different skulls found, Dr. Pickman, a physician in this section about 1880, pronounced the one containing the teeth with the gold filling as that of a female. The beautiful and symmetri- cally formed teeth, and the shape of the skull bones confirmed the belief.
Who the members of the party were, and at whose hands they met their fate, are mysteries that may never be solved. So long a time has elapsed since the occurrence, and there being no permanent settlers in this section of the country at that time, it is only a matter of conjecture as to the time and manner of their destruction. Up to within a few years ago, it was a very common thing for prospectors and immigrants to be swept away by the red savages that then infested the whole Salmon river country. The trailbuilders had both red men and road agents to contend with; sometimes these went hand in hand when the occasion required a union of the two forces of land pirates. Bones along the trail were not uncommon for this occasion; two theories have been advanced. At that time guns of any type were highly prized by the Indians and miners sometimes carried considerable gold with them. "Dead men tell no tales;" the bleaching bones on mountains and trails are as silent as the rocks, and cannot give up the secret which death holds.
The location of this point lies in a hole on the top of the most southern of the three small buttes, about one mile south of the Challis cemetery, and one-quarter mile west of the main highway. The date, according to some old Indians, was about 1845. This conflicts with the engraving on one of the guns, "C. S. A. '61;" whether this inscription represents the year of the tragedy or not we have no way of ascertaining.
From 1862 to 1870 Idaho was the center of many placer mine stampedes, and later, in 1879, occurred the Yankee Fork quartz rush, which was ex- traordinary. Only one of those who have been on such excursions can realize the extent of excitement that enters into every one, how he feels, and how all are buoyant with hope. While in this condition, often caused
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
by wild and most unreasonable stories, men will endure untold hardships and put forth every effort to be the first to reach some gold field. The Stanley Basin Stampede, although lasting a few years, was an exciting one. Gold was first discovered there late in the fall of 1863 at Kelly's Gulch, about sixteen and one-half miles from Stanley, by Frank R. Coffin, Dick Douglas, Robinson, Mathew Zipp and A. P. Challis. The mine, when first discovered at Kelly's Gulch, was known as the Summit Mine, until 1864. Immediately after the finding of the gold the discoverers departed for other sections of Idaho, in which to spend the winter. In April, 1864, a party of about twenty-five men left for Stanley. Among them was Doug- las. They went down to Boise City, where provisions and other necessities for the journey were purchased. Then they hastily proceeded on their way, going by the Little Camas Prairie to the South Boise River, which they followed up to the extreme head-waters and passed over the Sawtooth range near the present town of Sawtooth. On the way they followed an old Indian trail to the Salmon, and on reaching the summit of the Saw- tooth mountains, the loftiest and grandest range of mountains in Idaho, they experienced much difficulty in getting through the deep snow. At the time it was necessary for both man and beast to wade down the cold streams of Bear Creek, which was swollen by the melting snows.
When the Warm Springs on the Salmon, about forty miles above Stanley, were reached, a band of Indians made their appearance on the mountains near by. The prospectors were very anxious to find Kelly's Gulch, but others had reached it before they arrived. They tried to com- promise with the Indians to come down and smoke the peace-pipe but they feared that the whites meant to kill them. Failing to get any informa- tion from the Indians the men hastened on and camped at the mouth of Valley Creek. A short time after going into camp a band of gold seekers who did not know the location of Stanley Basin, but had heard reports of the diggings, arrived. In a few hours two hundred men were at the camp, only three or four miles from the mines. When daylight dawned the following morning, there was a big rush. Many, leaving their provisions and blankets at camp, mounted their horses and galloped ahead, while those who had not provided themselves with animals went with all possible haste on foot. All, however, were doomed to disappointment, as the ground
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
was all taken in the gulch and on the bar. Buckley, former sheriff of Walla Walla county, Washington, was the lucky possessor of the good ground on Buckley's Bar. It still bears his name.
In a few days, finding that all the good ground had been located, the stampede dispersed, some of them returning to the camp from which they had come, while others scattered throughout the mountains in search of other places. One party of several men went through the Lost and Wood river country, but were not successful. They found some copper and galena ore, but considered it worthless; it is now the White Knob a very productive mine. Placer elaims in Stanley are still successfully work- ing, and old machinery can be found where mines have been deserted.
A few miles above Stanley, on the side of a hill one or two hundred yards from Valley Creek, are three forts in a row and a few feet distance from each other. They are built of unhewn granite boulders and have an ancient look. being almost filled with earth. When the first white man visited them in 1963, and built the cabin which still stands in a gulch north of the Duffy place, between the intersection of Valley and Stanley ereeks, they appeared as old as they do at the present time. By whom they were constructed, or what their purpose was, will remain, as the massacre, un- known.
The following is an incident from the pen of Jud Boyakin, one of Idaho's pioneer editors, which ocenrred in Stanley Basin :
"A few evenings ago some old Idahoans met, and with lighted cigars, fell into a reminiscent mood, indulging in stories of early days long past when these grizzled pioneers were young men with smooth faces, and Idaho was a part of Washington Territory, with more Indians on its trails than white men. The conversation turned on great Atlanta, which at this tinie was attracting so much attention. The "Denocrat" learned it was discovered in 1863, by the party of prospectors on the upper tributaries of the South Fork of the Salmon river, a region which at that time had never been trodden by the foot of white men. The party numbered twenty- three men, Frank R. Coffin being one of them. All had mined at Florence the previous year, a fabulously rich placer camp. situated in a basin twelve miles from the main Salmon. They were now going to look for a similar besin, which they felt certain would be found in the wild and
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
rugged mountains they were going to explore. Nothing of value was dis- covered until reaching Stanley Basin, named for Captain Stanley, the eldest man of the party. They found gold on two different gulches, but to work them involved the bringing of water a long distance. The remote- ness of the country from supplies and the feeling of uneasiness on ac- connt of fresh Indian signs on their trail made it inadvisable, if not im- possible for them to avail themselves of what in after years proved to be a rich placer camp.
"At Stanley the party divided provisions and separated; thirteen, under the leadership of Joe Haines, returned to Warren diggings. At- tempting to go back by following the river, they got into deep canyons, where they had to abandon their horses, after killing some of them for food. Enduring great hardships and losing one of their nuumber by death, twelve out of the unlucky thirteen reached Warren.
"The party of ten, consisting of Captain Stanley, Barney Parke, Ed. Deeming, Jack Frowell, Ben Donglas, Dan Lake, Mat Gardner, Frank Coffin, Lee Montgomery and one whose name has been lost, left Stanley the same day the returning party did. As their provisions were nearly gone, they hoped soon to find a pass through the mountains that would lead them to Boise county, or Bannock, as Idaho City was called at that time. They had gone about fifteen miles over the old Indian trail ist of Stanley, when suddenly and unexpectedly they came onto a band of about sixty Indians eamped on a large creek. In a twinkling of an eye the Indians disappeared in the tamaraek of timber beyond them. This was a poser that called for a conneil of war. Dropping back on the trail behind the point that had brought them into view of the Indians, the veteran Stanley was appealed to for advice; but alas! he who had been through the fire of a scene of desperate Indian battles, and bore on his weather-beaten frame the scars as unmistakable evidence of his courage, was no longer a leader. The old man's nerve was gone, and he begged and implored the party to turn back on the trail and overtake the Haines company.
"In a short time after the Indians vanished into the timber, seven of them rode out in sight, with superb grace and dignity. and one of them dismounted, divested himself of his blanket and accoutrements, laid his rifle on the ground at his feet, and, raising his open palms upward, made
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
signs that he would like for one of the white men to meet him unarmed on the open ground between the two parties. Frank Coffin, being an ac- complished Chinook linguist, was selected, to meet the gallant brave. Ob- serving the same formality that his red brother had, he proceeded to the ground designated by the Indian, for the talk. When they met, the Indian extended his hand, and with many assurances in poorly spoken Chinook, bnt very expressive sign-language, convinced Coffin that his people did not want to fight. The representative of the white men, in elegant Chinook, and with much impressive gesture, assured the red men that neither were his men on the warpath, but were gold hunters on the way to Boise county. The red ambassador was a splendid specimen of the North American sav- age, young graceful and supple as a leopard. On his way to Montana in 1867, Coffin met this Indian again, on the Wood river, near where the town of Bellevue now stands. The brave in his recognition, referred to Coffin's moustache, which had been added since their meeting in 1863 and reminded his white friend that he was no longer a 'papoose chief.'
"Proceeding a few miles along the trail from where they met the Indians, they left it and bore directly for what appeared to be a low pass over the range; but, after floundering around for two days in the timber and brush, they were confronted with towering cliffs and lofty prependi- onlar mountain walls that barrieaded their path. They had reached an elevation that enabled them to see that they would have to) return to the trail they had left and travel further east before they could get over the range. Retracing their steps they struck the trail not far from where they had left it three days before.
"Near where they came to the trail again, on a freshly blazed tree, the adventurers read a history of their sensational meeting with the In- dians in a beautiful pictograph. It was about five feet long and eighteen inches wide, and on its surface the artist had done his work so well in red and black pigment that every one of the ten men read it at once. On the upper end of the blaze they had painted the figures of nine men and horses, representing the number the white men had, and their only dog. On the lower end of the pictograph six mounted Indians and a riderless horse appeared, not far from which the artist had painted a rifle and the accoutrements of which the Indian had divested himself. In the middle
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
of the picture the two ambassadors were represented with clasped hands, Between them and the figure representing the white company, the artist had painted a miner's pick. near which was an arrow pointing in the direction the white men had gone. There was no mistaking the objeet of the picto- graph; it was to advise their people passing that way that there may be or had been a party of gold hunters in the country."
This place is about 15 miles east of Stanley on Muley creek; however, no remains of a pictograph can be found there at present.
As far back as 1865, a party of easterners coming west in quest of wealth, made their way from Bannock, Montana, into the then strange and wild country of Loon Creek. For some time they camped at what seems to have been the meadows on the mouth of Warm Spring creek, eight miles below the subsequently famous placer camp on the main Loon. The party had several members; one of those was T. H. Cleveland. Cleveland being considered a tenderfoot, was the cook and when he reported finding yellow pannings in the nearby mountain, the other members of the party did not believe him. The party broke up and returned east where, after- wards it came to Cleveland to get assays on the ore containing the yellow substance. To his surprise it was very rich and he returned west, but his search was in vain.
In the spring of 1869 Liege Mulkey, Barney Sharkey and Bill Smith of Leesburg, Idaho, outfitted Nathan Smith to prospect on the headwaters of the Middle Fork of the Salmon river. Smith was considered a lueky prospeetor for placer mines. He was one of the party that struck Warren's diggings in the northwestern part of Idaho and had the honor of being the first one of the party to pan gold there. This man was also at Sulter's mill when Marshall picked up the first piece of gold found in California by a white man. Smith found diggings at Warren and various places in California and panned through the ups and downs of the California min- ing life before coming to Idaho. He and "Doe" Wilson, in the fall of '69 discovered gold at Yellow Jacket; of course this news eaused another panic, but the mines proved worthless at that time, so they were soon abandoned.
Smith and his companions had been out several weeks when they reached Loon Creek, which is 88 miles from Challis, in the northwestern part of Custer county, the largest tributary of the Middle Fork. Here they found
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
gold which they claimed valued $2.50 a pan. They immediately returned to Leesburg and reported their find. As a result every man who could possibly get away stampeded to the new diggings, many coming even from Montana. This was in August, 1869; it increased and about 200 remained there dur- ing the first winter, but the next year, 1870 and 1871, it increased to about 800. The camp was booming and was known as "Oro Grande," being sit- uated on a high bar on the west side of the creek. Gold dust was plentiful and business good. There were five business houses: MeNutt & Philips, J. Gallatin & Cross, Walferson & Peek Bros. of San Francisco, Mart Oben- dorfer & Co. of Boise, besides several small dealers.
There were several large buildings in this place, but by the fall of 1872 it was abandoned and sold to some Chinese miners. In 1878 a lost bunch of the Sheepeaters, an Indian tribe, were in great need of provis- ions. The prospeetors told them they had none to spare; the best thing they could do was to go down to old Oro Grand on Loon creek, to get some from the Chinamen. Captain Varney was supposed to have been the only eye witness of the fight. The Indians came into the camp about supper time, and their first act of violence was to kiek over the coffee pot which was' steaming on the camp fire. There were twelve or thirteen Chinamen; the Sheepeaters' band comprised twelve men and boys. In a few minutes they were fighting in earnest, nearly all of the Chinamen being killed. It was estimated that two of the Chinamen fled for Bonanza, but one of them was lost on the way; the other reached Bonanza. They left the provisions for the Indians, but it proved only a temporary relief, for Captain Bernard was sent to subdue them. Acting under orders from General Howard of Vancouver, three different companies headed by Captain Bernard and Lieu- tenants Catley and Farrow respectively, slowly and cautiously forced their way through the wilds of the Salmon river country, like hunters in search of game .. And never had hunters more wily game. Bernard said: "They go from point to point much faster than we can, even if we know where to go."
The Indians surprised Catley's command, defeated them and cap- tured their pack-train and supplies, so that they were forced to give up their part of the campaign. More troops were sent out, but it was Lieu- tenant Farrow who flanked the Indians' position and forced the entire
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
band of about sixty to surrender. After sixty-two days of marching over the snow-clad mountains and plains, he turned them over to General How- ard at Vancouver. The victory took place on Loon creek, near its junction with the Middle Fork of the Salmon river, on August 20, 1879, but they escaped to cause more trouble. Farrow forced these Indians to surrender in the Seven Devils region on the following September 1, and this was supposedly the last of the Indian wars in Idaho.
In 1871, while the Loon Creek stampede was still on, Varney discov- ered mines on Jordan creek. His find was reported, and the population of Loon Creek stampeded to the future city of Bonanza. Varney sold his claims to J. G. Morrison in 1872. The usual life of a placer camp was two or three years; Bonanza was no exception. In the case of the Yankee Fork district, the claims were scattered out for some 15 miles along Jordan creek, thence into Yankee Fork and to the Salmon river. A meeting was called at that time for the purpose of laying off a townsite. Among the miners pres- ent were James McKim. I. S. Johnson and Elden Dodge, who constituted a committee to locate the streets. This was in February, 1877. They decided on Bonanza for a name, everyone present believing that was what they had struck. MeKim and Johnson had already built a house on the new town site in the summer of 1876.
About July 1, 1879 the Yankee Fork Herald began publication, with M. M. Musgrove as editor. The issue of August 23, 1879 contains the adver- tisements of nine saloons, three hotels, two doctors and five lawyers in the city of Bonanza. The leading gambling house advertised thus: "Classy and Hogle, Bonanza City, Idaho. WE ARE HERE." George L. Shoup of Salmon City had a full column of advertising wines, liquors, clothing, drugs, furniture and miners' supplies. Another advertisement was as follows: "Celestial Laundry, Charlie Gumboo, Prop. This is by far the neatest wash house in the territory. Shirts nicely starched and beautifully pol- ished."
The first white child born in that part of the country was a danghter of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel McCall, whose birthday was on January 1, 1879.
The value and extensiveness of the mining here can be estimated by an article in the Omaha Republican, on August 15, 1879, which reads: "Yesterday we treated our eyes to some of the finest specimens of gold ยท
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
and silver ore that was ever exhibited in Omaha. These have just arrived from the Yankee Fork of the Salmon river region, Idaho. There are some twenty pieces from these mines. The most beautiful and the largest pieces are from the famous Montana mine on Estes mountain, near Custer, and were literally glittering and interlaced with small nuggets and wires of pure gold."
Strange as it sounds, development had reached this stage without wagon roads, all supplies being brought in on the baeks of horses and burros. The freight charge was 20e a pound. Even Custer was started in 1878 with no road, which is two miles from Bonanza. Bonanza is 66 miles from Challis and Custer is 68 miles. The townsite of Custer was laid off by Mordiff & Black and lots were given to anyone who would ereet a building on them. The first house, or cabin, on the present site' of Custer was built in the spring of 1878 by Sam Holman and "Doc" Adair.
By this time eastern capital and California capitalists and mining engineers were becoming interested in this country. Alex Topence was con- strueting a toll road through from Challis and Bonanza; the need of it was so pressing that two erews of men were kept at work, one at each end of the road. The first stage with its load of passengers slid into Custer on January 26, 1880 in a sled. The charges on the road as taken from an ad- vertisement in the Yankee Fork Herald, were as follows:
One wagon and one span of animals $4.00
Each additional span 1.00
Man on horseback .50
Pack animals .25
Loose animals, other than sheep and hogs .25
Hog's
.15
Sheep .10
H. MYERS-President.
Of course, the opening of the first road was a real occasion for a celebration after the most approved western style. A large feast was served, including such dainties as ice cream, candies, a dance following. Mrs. Belle Thompson was the first white woman in Custer and her son George, was
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
the first white child born there. She and her son are now living on a small farm about a mile and a half up Garden creek, above Challis.
There are several hundred small mines in Central Idaho, many of these being located near Custer and Bonanza which was a very rich section for minerals. Estes mountain near Custer, was a center of the mining. The Montana, Lucky Boy, Lost Swim, Big Chief, McFadden, Black, Golden State, Snowdrift and Buster Quartz mines are names of a few in this sec- tion. Montana mine was the richest and produced more than any of the others. Robinson Bar, now . a popular summer resort, was once a placer mine. The Sunbeam mine, 57 miles from Challis, was booming and across Jordan creek from the Sunbeam village, and directly on the Loon Creek road, stood a hospitable wayside inn known as the Lake Hotel. The Bay- horse Mining District was located in September, 1863, but little was done until 1877 when Jack Hood, George Harland, Bob Beardsley, A. P. Challis, and Sam Blackburn started development. Some of these mines have min- erals in them and Custer county is very active in mining as can be proven by the last reports ranking Custer county at the top for the production of minerals.
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