USA > Idaho > Custer County > History of Custer County, Idaho > Part 2
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Challis, the county seat of Custer county, and one of its earliest towns, is still in existence and has increased to a population of about 500 at the present time. It was laid out in January, 1878, by S. G. Fisher and James' . HI. Vancamp, according to Mrs. Vancamp, who is now living in Challis. The name is in honor of Alvah P. Challis. Mr. Challis mined all over the west. coming to Leesburg in 1867 and then to Loon Creek when the stampede was on. He came to Round Valley, the name of the valley in which Challis is located, and settled on Challis creek, a small stream about four miles north of Challis. He was one of the earliest of the white settlers in this part of the country where he, with his partner, raised cattle. Cattle business was not a success for him; instead, it caused him to go heavily in debt. He soon quit the cattle business and started placer mining again to defray expenses incurred while stock raising. He went to Stanley Basin-the group of claims now owned by his estate and by Mr. Sturkey. He was one of our noble pioneers; returning east in the fall of 1902 he passed away April 17, 1903, at Carbonsdale, Indiana.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
The town is beautifully located under the overhanging brown cliffs, and looking out over the valley from Lone Pine Summit one sees a vast extent of mountains, each successive range rising higher and higher, like a vast ampitheatre. This mountain to the north of the town is a creamy mass of chlorite studding which contains a valuable supply of building stone of which the Challis High School is constructed. It is at the mouth of the canyon where Garden Creek flows out into the fertile valley and about three miles from the Salmon river. This river, with its rugged buttes and towering eliffs overlooking it, wends its way to the northward.
The fort which was made of stone and post in the summer of 1878 in Challis, on account of hostile Indians, does not stand. It covered the territory near the Challis cemetery and the home of Mrs. Hess, Mrs. Van- camp, Henry Nichols and others living in that vicinity. An old well which was used inside the fort can still be seen just below the home of Mr. and Mrs. Nichols; it is now nearly filled with earth. This fort was used only when the Indians were near. The homes were built along the creek, the first home still standing in a prominent position on Main street. It was built by "Doc"' Stores. Another old building across the street from the C'hallis post office was built in 1897, as the date is written on the front. It was a meat market but now it is abandoned. The first school house stood where the old fox farm was. The first school teacher, Mr. Hainey, was a lawyer and later became well known. The logs of the old schoolhouse are now in the Garden Creek Cash Grocery on Main street, owned by John L. Hammond. Challis had a setback by fire on April 25, 1894, which took the most of the business section. Two of the old pioneers who were in the fort in 1878 are still living in. Challis. They are Mrs. Funkhouser and Mrs. Vancamp, who can relate many exciting and hair-raising tales of those days. J. D. Wood was the first postmaster, who later became the head of the Wood's Livestock company.
Farming and stockraising-two of the valley's chief occupations- were carried on even as early as 1885, when a farm was tilled along the Salmon river, about four miles from Challis, which covers the places now owned by Joseph Rodgers, Frank Bradbury and William Chivers. The trees that were planted in that year are still alive around the farm home of the
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
Rodgers place, and about half a mile east of this home and about one mile from the Salmon river, is a cabin which was built in 1885. To John Stale is due the credit of proving that fruit could be raised in Round Valley. He spaded the earth and harrowed it with a wooden toothed harrow, which he drew himself. Now there are many producing orchards near Challis, cared for with modern inventions.
In 1883 Captain Bonneville, who had served with the Hudson Bay company, established a trading post in Round Valley. During the following year one of his associates, a Frenchman named Meershaw, made a trip to Snake river by way of Lost river, and said that the snow was so deep that the tops of trees were scarcely visible. In this year the buffalo were ex- terminated from Custer county on account of starvation.
While Challis was very small, yet prospering from the mines in this vicinity, one of the hardest Indian fights that ever took place in Idaho, was fought at Battleground. The victims were freighting supplies here.
Following are details of the fight, as enumerated by Daniel Wade and others, who were here at that time:
"It was in the summer of 1978. The Lemhi Indians were peaceful un- der the leadership of Chief Tendoy, which fact was a great aid to the settlers. The railroad terminated at Oneida, Idaho, and it was necessary to import all supplies by ox-teams into the interior. A large consignment of flour and general merchandise was assigned to Joe Skelton. The freight train, consisted of four nine-yoke teams, with three wagons to each team. George Dinsmore, with one nine-yoke team, joined our outfit. The personnel of the train was as follows: Joe Skelton, wagon boss; Joe Cur- rier; Henry Skelton, brother of Joe; Will Bush, Daniel Wade and George Dinsmore.
"They loaded at Oneida, July 20, 1878, knowing that the Indians were hostild and that each was supplied with plenty of ammunition.
"The trail north from Oneida crossed the Portneuf river, at what is now Portneuf Canyon. Then they traveled north along the Snake river through Ross Fork to Eagle Rock, now Idaho Falls, to Mud Lake, now Roberts, to Camas Lakes and from Camas Lakes to Birch Creek. At Birch Creek they were instrueted to look for a letter from Shoup & Co. They
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
reached Bireh ereek, but found no notice. If the Indians were on the Lost river side, they could have gone to Salmon as Shoup & Co., had a store there also. Finding no letter, their hopes were bright for a safe journey. The company traveled from Bireh creek, along the cattle trails, making a stop at Jim Kennedy's ranch on Lost river, near Old Arco. The train pressed forward, and on August 10, came to the Narrows on Lost river, which was the most dangerous and difficult part of the route. After camp was made, Skelton rode ahead to see how the ground lay. On his advance he saw MeCaleb and party from Challis, approaching and mistook them for Indians. Rushing back to camp Skelton shouted: 'Get your guns boys; get ready to shoot.' Every man went for his rifle. Upon nearing the camp McCaleb, who was bald-headed, took off his hat and revealed his identity. The visitors made known that the Indians had turned back from Oregon and were expected to arrive any day.
"After the mid-day meal they again yoked up the oxen and drove to the meadows, where they camped for the night. They had no guard, as they believed there were no Indians near. Next morning, while Harrington and Wade prepared breakfast the others went after the stock, which had strayed during the night. MeCaleb's party went for the horses and the others for the cattle. The horses were brought in; however, the cattle did noi arrive. Becoming anxious Wade got on a saddle horse and rode out to see if he could locate them. He met Dinsmore, who had seen one Indian which disappeared as soon as observed. They knew more Indians were near for they never traveled separately when on the war path. The camp was warned, but no preparation was made as they thought Dinsmore was inis- taken. Wade and two others returned for guns, as the men were unarmed, and the Tadians were between camp and the cattle. Piekets were sent out on :hic knolls east of the meadows, soon returning to report that they had seen a band across the river. The Indians aseertained they were being ob- served and modified their plan of attack, hiding in the willows. It was about 8 o'clock, and no defense was yet being made. When the piekets re- tarned, all hands set to work arranging the wagons in a eirele, with some of the animals within, digging trenches and piling flour up as a breastwork. MeCaleb was in charge, as he had been in the Confederate army during
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
the Civil war and had been in 36 engagements during that time. He pos- sessed a good general knowledge of military functions. While the work was yet unfinished, a few Indians came down and hallowed: 'Joe, can we come into camp?' He was speaking to Joe Raney, a half breed. This was partly in broken English, and he replied, 'No." Making his answer more emphatic, he took aim over the wagon wheel. The ball cut dirt among them and they scattered to the hills. At the first shot Indians seemed to spring out of the ground and began firing upon them. The camp was entirely surrounded and they kept up a continuous fire. They saw Trelaor's pile of yokes, and knew a man was there. They tried to shoot under and over the pile of yokes, to no avail, although Trelaor moved. McCaleb's portholes between the saeks were too small for much practical use. He moved to the left of his de- fense, resting his gun on a spoke and felly of the wagon wheel under which he lay. Skelton warned him to keep his head down. His gun was a Win- chester repeater. He had just shot, and thrown the lever forward to eject the shell, when a ball from the enemy struck him squarely in the forehead, the shot first passing through his hatband.
"This was about 10 o'clock on the morning of August 11, 1878. Joe Currier was just in the act of crawling over Jesse's feet when the latter was shot. Wade lay opposite him in the corral and was not shooting at the time. We all knew that Jesse had been killed, although he uttered no sound. The heroic figure lay upon his face, and breathed occasionally until about 11 o'clock, when he expired. There was no motion of his body except the occasional breathing, he being unconscious to the end. Nothing was done for him-nothing could be done. His horse, too, was killed in the corral the same morning.
"The Indians did some cxeellent shooting. They splintered the spokes and eut the ground all around us. They aimed at the end-gate rods and bolts in the hope of getting a glancing missile to do personal damage. They shot into the sacks and covered us with flying flour. But the sacks stopped the bullets, excepting the top saeks, which a shot would sometimes pene- trate. At noon we counted 57 Indians on the attack, but we knew there were more.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
"In the afternoon an Indian whom, from later information, we be- lieve was Chief Buffalo Horn, rode around the camp on a full run. He was not more than 100 or 150 yards away, but moved about on his horse, run- ning generally on the further side. Everybody in the corral shot at him but couldn't bear him down. Joe Raney was one of our finest marksmen, but he sent a dozen bullets at this mark without success. It is inferred that this ride around the camp had been to induce us to expose our heads for the benefit of the sharpshooters outside.
"During the remainder of the afternoon, all was quiet. We kept our vigils, however, without intermission, and finally night settled down, leav- ing only a dim moonlight by which to sean the stretch of sage brush where lay the foe. About nine in the evening, the stillness was broken by a faint ery as of a coyote, a great way off. This ery was repeated again and again, each time sounding nearer. Then other coyotes joined the band and as they approached very near the camp their dismal bark was suddenly changed into the war-whoop of the terrifie force, and the Indians rushed to' charge the corral.
"Seme were not the least frightened and spoke of experiencing the calmest composure, although hope flickcred when MeCaleb had been shot. But the time was past and surely there was not a man to do anything but shoot. Some believed the end had come. We shot as fast as we could in the direction of the sound, trusting to make the fusilade so hot as to run the attackers. In this we were successful, for the tumult and shouting died, and the enemy fled to cover.
"About 11 o'clock the charge was repeated, from the river side. the enemy approaching under cover of our cattle, driving the animals to the corral. We did not see them and the attack was a surprise.
"After the noisesome attack which we had repelled by a terrific fire, the Indians returned a safe distance and talked to us. 'Some of you have been killed, and we will kill all of you.' They also said that they had a white woman captive in their outfit. We had a little dog which seemed to enjoy the excitement of the fight. Whenever the reds came near, he would run out and bark with all of his might. The savages tried under cover of darkness to steal him. Once when the dog was very noisy, the reds from
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
the darkness said, 'Hello Boys; what's the matter with your dog?' Joc Raney thought he saw the buck who spoke and blazed away in that direc- tion. Almost instantly three shots were returned from the brush, every one of which struck the wagon hub over his head.
"About 1 o'clock the height of the excitement quieted down. During this interval we wrapped the unfortunate man's body in a wagon sheet and laid him at rest. Jesse McCaleb had sacrificed his life for the progress of Idaho. We stood guard unceasingly, taking advantage of the quietness to build our breastwork higher.
"At 3 a. m. Wm. Trelaor, Joe Raney and Jack Flynn mounted and started for Challis, about 50 miles distance, to summon help; at daylight an Indian hallowed: 'Good morning boys, how you gettin' along?' At 6 o'clock on the morning of the 12th, we saw the last Indians riding out of the brush and moving down the river. We think that they left us that day. We did not leave our camp nor remove the guard. On the morning of the 13th, at daybreak, 30 men arrived from Challis. We rested until noon, until we were satisfied that the foe was gone. Then we found that they had roasted five head of our cattle in the willows. After noon we yoked and made a half day's drive. We camped safely that night, and next morning, still traveling with outpost, we dropped into Thousand Spring Valley.
"Moving up the valley, we suddenly observed a slight exciting char- acter. Every scout was on the run to reach the wagons. The Indians were running them in. We at once corralled and made ready for the night. One poor fellow was so hard pressed that he left his horse and crawled into a hole, where he spent the night. Everything was made ready for trouble, but none came. We remained all the next day.
"On the morning of the 17th we moved out and at night camped at Antelope Springs. That morning our escort left us and went toward Challis. We had gone only about five miles when be met Jerome Calvin riding to- ward the Thousand Springs Valley. About an hour later he returned and told us he had seen a band of Indians who had crossed our trail behind us. We put out guards the best we could, and passed the night peacefully. On the night of the 18th we pulled down to the Salmon river and went into camp on the river.
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"As soon as camp was pitched, a messenger from Challis told us to go into town that night, because a big Indian force was moving down the river. We yoked up, forded the river, and pulled to Challis that night, the 18th of August, 1878."
In November of the same year Colonel Shoup and others went to the Battleground; getting McCaleb's body, they took it to Salmon, where it was buried with signal honor, the whole country attending the funeral. He was first buried on a small knoll overlooking the battlefield, now the Mackay reservoir. A small fallen-down fence marks the place where the body was laid away. This can be seen from the highway on the point of the knoll in the horseshoe bend of the road.
.. Not long thereafter, a force of friendly Indians, Shoshones, captured two reds, who were boasting of having assisted in the battle on Lost river. They were placed in the county jail at Salmon to await trial. The sheriff later turned them over to the Indian agent, who wanted to transfer them to a reservation, but learning that a dozen or so of the citizens were out- side of the town, for the purpose of hanging the Indians, he tried to de- liver them to the sheriff; the latter refused to receive them. By permission of George Wantz, the proprietor of the livery stable, they left them in the office. At night a crowd of unmanageable citizens took the prisoners away from the agent, led them out to St. Charles street, to the southwest corner of Jake Finister's field, and shot them.
The band which made the attack on the Lost river, was afterwards captured by General Miles. They numbered about 300, and, it is said, they were led by Chief Buffalo Horn. This Battleground is where the Mackay reservoir now stands. Mt. MeCaleb stands near Maekay and was named in honor of Jesse MeCaleb, whose courage and manliness were as lofty as the peak itself. The grave, as located, marks the spot where the faithful fol- lowers of McCaleb laid him at rest, after the fatal shot.
All travel was then accomplished by ox-teams; later horses were used. The sturdy Concord Coaches, drawn by four or six horses, lumbered through the ravines and sage brush flats. They were unable to make very rapid progress; therefore, stations were placed at intervals of a few miles each. Leaving Old Arco. the traveler would stop at Kennedy's on Lost river.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
When this road was first completed, the first large shipment consisted of machinery for the Bonanza mine.
The passenger would, after leaving Kennedy's, advance to Old Hous- ton, the largest town in this part of the country at that time. It nestled among the hills of Custer county, where the White Knob and Cliff Moun- tain ranges watch the glistening waters of Alder creek go noisily by. Vis- itors found all inhabitants buoyant with hope over the mining, agricultural, and stock raising advantages; for there was a great mining center with nat- ural resources of unknown limit.
They had a fine school with about sixty enrolled. As one went up the tiny streets, some of the business houses he saw were the Lost River Mer- eantile Co., owned by B. F. Brown and J. H. Greene, the largest store in the county; The Houston House, a very popular hotel, owned by George Wal- burn; a saloon, managed by H. E. Gilbert; general merchandise, supervised by Levi Staples; Mrs. Ray Boones' Restaurant and Lodging; the Houston Meat Market, owned by C. S. Heinman; the Village Blacksmith Shop, owned by George R. Ashton. Only parts of the foundations remain now, it being deserted when the railroad came to the valley. This caused the town to be moved and the name to be changed to Mackay. The railroad eame 'to Mackay in September, 1901.
The traveler was awakened at dawn usually, and was hurried on his way, the next stop being at Narrows. This site is now covered by the Maekay reservoir, where parts of the foundations can yet be seen, during low water. This same meadow is where the famous battle took place in 1878.
A stop was made at Cedar, twelve miles this side of Mackay, going toward Challis, and another at Whiskey Springs, about eighteen miles com- ing into the interior. Bascomn's station at Dicky, was an old fort which still remains, Baseomn living there. Lone Pine Summit was a station on top of the summit between Challis and Mackay. Here a runaway took place at one time, such as one reads about in western stories, and thrills over in pic- ture shows. As the stages were the only means of taking out the miner's gold, it was a temptation for bandits to make a "holdup" and take the money at any price.
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
The old Jensen bridge, about three miles south of Challis, was used many years for the immigration to the mines. It still exists, though need- ing some repairs, but is not open for public use. The road came to Challis, not on the present course, but about one mile west and came into town about where Peek's Hill stands.
Challis was the center of the mining camps and the first road to Custer and Bonanza went up Garden creek, but later was built by the present way.
The old toll gates, of which a few old buildings still remain, were located at the mouth of Mill creek at Yankee Fork; the rates have already been given. The Fannie Clark station, as the toll gates were known, won con- siderable renown. Crystal was a small freighting town, which stood near the East Fork bridge, where a few old foundations can still be seen. The toll road from Challis to Loon Creek, via Packer Mountain, was completed on July 6, 1909. The first semi-weekly mail service from Challis to Bonanza was started on January 17, 1911.
An old Indian trail leading to Pahsamaroi, an Indian name meaning " Two Waters," named because of the two springs at the head of the valley, is still used by cattlemen entering the Pahsamaroi valley, at Trail creek.
Near Mahogany hill is an old corral made of woven willows constructed many years ago by the Indians. It is built in a narrow passage and could have easily been used by them to corral horses.
The first daily mail between Challis and May, Idaho, a small town about thirty miles from Challis, and ten miles from the mouth of the Pahsamaroi, was started on October 29, 1919. Stages still convey passengers, freight and mail from Mackay to Challis. Challis is the center of the other small towns in central Idaho, as Stanley, Forney, Clayton and May.
I have endeavored in this treatise to give a complete history of the County of Custer. This county, as many other small places, was settled due to the rich mining claims found in them. Here the most valned industry today is mining; our part of Idaho ranks among the first in production of various minerals. However, many of these little camps have been abandoned and all that is left to tell the history is a few fallen down buildings. One thing we do have, nevertheless, to show the history of the past, is. a pic- ture of the town of Custer, painted by Cridman, in 1880. A popular legend
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HISTORY OF CUSTER COUNTY
told by the old folks is that he was a vagabond in need of money. The pic- ture was his salvation. This picture is now hanging in The Messenger of- fice at Challis. It well portrays the life of the early camps. What tales this picture could tell us would perhaps furnish entertainment for many a campfire chat. As one looks more closely, he can see a patched place in the center of it. Previously it hung in a saloon in Custer, and one night, in a moment of insanity a drunkard threw a bottle through it. The buildings are nestled in the gorges about the mill, against the towering mountains, covered with the beautiful pines. The tram-way leads down the mountain to the mill of thirty stamps, which could easily be recognized as such with- out the sign on the side: "General Custer Mill." Its remoteness and isota- tion is shown by the wild deer running along the mountainside. The home- like group of dwellings are nestled in the deep wood-laden ravines about the mill, making a natural pieture of western life. The large comfortable boarding house was managed by Mrs. Normington of Wood River. Other buildings, including the office and store room. look out over the Yankee Fork, which flows quietly by the little village of industry and contentment.
Another thing we have to recall memories of the past, is the old Concord Stage Coaches, which were used to deliver freight, passengers and mail be- tween Challis and Maekay. They have never been preserved, being drawn up and abandoned at the side of an old barn in Challis. These relies, never- theless, force us to remember the hardships our fathers and grandfathers suffered in order to make for us Custer county, as it is today.
A tribute to these trail-blazers was written by Clarence Eddy :
"Dreamers they were, those pioneers ; Brave of spirit were the women folk. And the bearded men were strong. They eared not how rough the trail, ' Ho! Westward' was their song. Where night drew its curtains of blue, Lay the land they sought. The land so large,
The land where dreams come true."
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