An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho, Part 33

Author:
Publication date: 1903
Publisher: [S.l.] : Western Historical Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 1524

USA > Idaho > Kootenai County > An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho > Part 33
USA > Idaho > Nez Perce County > An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho > Part 33
USA > Idaho > Shoshone County > An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho > Part 33
USA > Idaho > Latah County > An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho > Part 33

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

The town lies only about four hundred feet above the Clearwater valley and consequently possesses a warm climate tempered by cool breezes from the mountain and encircling hills. The valley at this point is not over half a mile wide and the town lies on a narrow flat and several slightly higher plateaus. The creek rushes angrily along the northern boundary of the place. At one time it undoubtedly occupied the whole canyon as the gravelly formation of the ground and the plentitude of rocks testify. The citizens take the greatest pride in their abundant and pure water supply. The water is obtained from a large spring on Leonard Henry's ranch, half a mile up the creek,

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where it is stored in a reservoir holding 11,000 cubic feet. From here it is brought to the town through a four-inch main and conveyed to the different consum- ers by two-inch pipes. The water has a fall of nine- ty feet, enough to secure an excellent fire pressure. This water system, which has been recently com- pleted, is owned by Wilbur A. Cochran, T. W. Shref- fler and W. H. Shields.

It is said that President Mellen personally be- stowed the name Cul-de-sac upon the settlement at the terminus of this branch line. He was driving along the proposed route with a companion at the time and when they reached the end of the practicable route, the president remarked "This is indeed a cul- de-sac."

When the railroad was built, in the summer of 1899, John Mckenzie was induced to relinquish his homestead right to a forty-acre tract which made an "L" of his farm and included the present townsite. Then J. G. and C. A. Wright purchased thirty acres of this tract with government script and subsequently W. S. Adron filed a timber and stone claim upon the remaining ten acres. Meanwhile, however, Sogart & Green, E. T. Brandon & Frank Edwards, McGraf Brothers (James, William and Thomas), T. W. Shref- fler, E. J. Northcutt and several others had settled on the ten-acre tract and decided to contest the Adron claim on the ground that the land was more valuable for townsite purposes. To that end a public meeting was held of which Mr. Northcutt was chosen chair- man, and a committee, consisting of James McGraf, Frank O'Mallory, Jesse Beans and Link Meadows, was appointed to take charge of the matter. Ninety- two location claims were sold at one dollar each to provide funds with which to carry on the contest and in September, 1899, the papers were filed. This con- test was carried up to the secretary of the interior, who, in 1902, decided in favor of the citizens, grant- ing their application for a townsite. A trust patent was issued to Probate Judge Stookey, who issued title to the land to those possessing squatter's rights. This tract now constitutes the main portion of the town.

The thirty-acre tract was platted in the fall of 1899, but, owing to the fact that it was individual property, was not occupied as rapidly as the government town- site. The first house was built on it by Albert Wat- kins, a Northern Pacific employee, in December, 1899. Mr. Watkins was followed the next year by a man named Martin who erected a lodging house, by S. E. Bemis, who built a hall, and by C. B. Wright, who op- ened a store. King & Wright erected a store and ho- tel, the Triangle House, and warehouses were con- structed along the railroad track. Both towns grew rapidly and prospered.

The owners of this townsite originally christened the place Mellen. The citizens of both towns early applied for a postoffice and suggested to the depart- ment the name given the station by the railroad com- pany, viz : Cul-de-sac, spelling it as a compound word. The postoffice was granted but the department re- fused to adopt the name suggested and instead be- stowed the name Magnolia. Thus matters stood until

last July (1902) when a citizens' petition that the postoffice be named Culdesac, writing it as one word, was granted.

The two towns were consolidated in January, 1903, when the board of county commissioners gave them the boon of corporate existence. C. B. Uptograf, Thomas Culnan, W. A. Cochran, F. M. Remington and Albert Sogard were named trustees and will soon organize and elect officers.

The citizens have from the first taken an active in- terest in their educational matters and three years ago, they built a handsome school house in the town, cost- ing $1,000, to take the place of the old district school. A portion of this amount was raised by private sub- scriptions. In these quarters and an additional rented room, 150 pupils properly graded. are cared for by Professor Case, Miss Lillian Schoot and Mrs. Charles J. Miller.

A fine church is also being erected by the Chris- tian society, under the pastorate of Rev. L. F. Steph- ens. The Presbyterians have a society and have re- cently secured a pastor, Rev. John Wooliver.

Among the most important enterprises in Culdesac is a new flouring mill now being built by Alt & Cross- man. The mill will have a capacity of 50 barrels a day. Power is furnished by a ditch taken out of Lap- wai creek at a distance above town. To secure this mill Culdesac subscribed a bonus of $1,300, E. J. Northcutt alone raising three-fourths of the amount.

Culdesac also possesses a local telephone system, owned by Keller & Bell, and is connected with the out- side world by the Pacific States and Lookout systems. The Register, a weekly newspaper established in 1899 by W. L. Stephens, is another important factor in the town's welfare and under the ownership of John J. Schick is a neatly printed journal well filled with local news.

Culdesac's other business houses may be grouped as follows: General stores, F. M. Remington, Ed- ward P. Brandon, Albert Sogard, J. G. Wright & Company, Thomas Purhum; hardware, Wilbur A. Cochran, Farr, Lewis & Farr ; groceries, Chris Norbo; furniture, George Henderson, Frank Zenzengler ; drugs, W. D. Keller; hotels, Walla Walla, T. W. Shreffler, proprietor : Commercial, Henry Zyrbell, proprietor, Clear, J. H. Clear, proprietor ; livery sta- bles, Walla Walla, T. W. Shreffler, proprietor, Star, Clyde Chapman, proprietor, Midway, Frank Gasa- way, proprietor, West End, John Whalen, proprietor ; meat markets. Joseph Ziver (J. H. McDevitt, man- ager). McGratlı Brothers ; banks, Vollmer-Clearwater Company, Bank of Culdesac; feed mill, J. G. Wright; blacksmith shops, W. J. Departee, J. S. Mack, Charles Benson; jewelry, R. J. Watkins; confectionery and notions, Thomas Culnan, Brown & Stuart; Dr. E. L. Burke is the town's physician, Dr. B. L. Cole is its dentist, while G. K. Tiffany and John Green look after the legal business of its inhabitants.

Real estate in Culdesac commands a high price at present and values are steadily increasing, a sure sign of prosperity. The business men contemplate improv- ing the streets, the installation of a system of fire pro-

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HISTORY OF NORTH IDAHO.

tection, police protection and many other improve- ments rendered necessary by the growing importance of the town. Although not yet four years old, Cul- desac has attained to the position of the third town in size and importance in the county and its inhabitants firmly believe that it will eventually gain a still higher rank.

PECK.

Unfortunately, it was not the writer's privilege to visit the prosperous town of Peck, and as the letter requesting information regarding it remains unan- swered, it is not possible to go into the details of its history and present business houses. It is known, however, to be a substantial little city, with a splen- did farming country contiguous to it. The town lies nearly two miles south of its railway station, Con- tract. Writing of it in 1899 the Lewiston Teller said : "Peck is more than its name implies. Its light cannot be hidden under a bushel, for more bushels of wheat, flax and barley will be marketed there than at any other two points combined on the Clearwater Short Line. John Herres operates the ferry.

"Peck, being removed from the railroad, escaped the boom and is consequently sound to the core. It is not overdone. There is not a shanty nor tent in the place. The buildings are large and substantial. Peck is a cozy, cheerful hamlet, and differs from some towns as a genuine home differs from a hotel. A nucleus of cultured society is here. The early inhabitants give character to the village. The Methodists, United Brethren and Dunkards have church organizations. A new schoolhouse will be erected this fall. The trade territory of Peck extends to Lawyer's canyon on the south. There is but one small area of waste land in this section, as the Big and Little canyons are so shaped as to be in the main tillable.

"The Peck Industrial Fair was held September 28th, 29th, and 30th. Its success was such that ar- rangements are already being made for repeating it next year. I. S. Sperry acted as president and Thomas Kirby as secretary.'

These annual fairs give an excellent idea of the wealth of the country tributary to Peck. In October of last year one was held, attended by nearly ten thous- and people. It was a display of fruits, vegetables, grasses and grains. It is stated that Mr. Dean, of Mohler, exhibited oats that were a part of a yield of IOI busliels, 8 pounds to the acre, and another yield of 103 bushels an acre was represented.

SPALDING.

With the opening of the reservation in 1895, the present town of Spalding came into existence. At that time a company was formed, known as the Spald- ing Townsite Company, which proceeded to lay out a town and name it Spalding. A great rush of business men followed and within a very short time Spalding was enjoying all of the life and feverish activity of a boom. A score of frame business houses were erected,

another score of canvas structures, and many resi- dences and the town grew and throve wonderfully.

However, in 1899 the Northern Pacific, which had built a line down the Clearwater to Lewiston the year previous, decided to build a spur up Lapwai creek to the foot of Craig's mountain, and the construction of this line proved a death blow to Spalding. This spur leaves the main line at the creek and follows closely up this little mountain stream for twelve miles. Pre- vious to this Spalding had been the shipping point for

the whole interior country, but now this immense business was transferred to points farther inland. At present only a few stores, two hotels, a butcher shop, blacksmith shop and several residences constitute the white settlement of the town and the Indians furnish most of the business support. The railroad station is at North Lapwai, about a mile west of Spalding on land condemned by the government for station and yard purposes. It is interesting to note that most of the townsite of Spalding is on Indian land and leased from individuals.

LAPWAI.

About the center of a valley formed by the widen- ing of the Lapwai basin is situated the few buildings forming the town of Lapwai, while at the extreme southwestern end at the base of the hills is the site of old Fort Lapwai, where are located the present Indian agency and school. Lapwai creek flows through the eastern border of the valley. Along the railroad are the grain warehouses of the Vollmer-Clearwater Com- pany and the Kettenbach Grain Company, while the general stores of Thomas Martin and Coffin Brothers, Prine & Lucas's blacksmith shop and a hotel compose the business section of the trading center. Lapwai, being the home of the agency and school, draws an extensive Indian trade which is the main support of the town, although a rich, wheat-growing section sur- rounds this valley. The townsite is owned by the In- dians. The Presbyterian mission is located here and is under the supervision of Miss Kate Macbeth.

KAMIAH.

This pretty little town lies in the beautiful Kamiah basin on the south fork of the Clearwater river, at the mouth of Kamiah creek. It is on Indian land at pres- ent, though steps are being taken by the citizens to- ward the purchase of enough of this land to form a townsite. Kamiah is the trading and shipping center of a considerable section of country and a large business is transacted in consequence. A stage line connects it with Nezperce City and nearly all of the grain raised in the country tributary to Kamaih creek, or Lawyer's canyon, is shipped out over the Clearwater Short Line from the Kamiah warehouses. There are probably 150 people residing in the town and they have every reason to be hopeful of the future of their home. In- ception was given to the place by the building of the railroad through the valley in 1899.

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OTHER TOWNS.

Besides the towns described in the foregoing pages there are several of considerable importance, though smali. The other towns and points at which post offices were established prior to January, 1903, are : Cameron, population in 1900, 68; Cavendish, Chesley, population 30; Dublin, Fairburn, Forest, population

35 ; Gifford, Kippen, Leland. population 150; Lookout, Melrose, population 52; Myrtle, population 43 : Por- ters, Rosetta, population, 20; Russel, population 50; Slickpoo, population 20; Southwick, population 50; Steele, population 20; Summit, Tekean, population 25 ; Waha, population 24; Webb, Willola, population 78; Winchester, population 50.

CHAPTER IV.

THE NEZ PERCE INDIANS.

No history of Nez Perces county can lay claim to completeness which overlooks the aboriginal inhabi- tants of the soil. A history of these people is an im- possibility, for they have preserved no written records of their past, and, being possessed of little architect- ural skill, have erected no monuments of a permanent nature to their memories. Traditions they have, to be sure, and a mythology of their own, but their char- acter is such that only the few who have lived in inti- mate association with them have been instructed in their peculiar beliefs relative to their origin, past his- tory and relations to the future life. For one who has lived apart from the Indians to attempt to treat of their traditions, mythology . and original religious views would be presumptuous indeed. We are in- formed that a work of a historical character concern- ing them by an educated member of their own tribe is now in course of preparation. It is to be hoped that the project will not miscarry and that the work will be found to contain a comprehensive and exact treatment of the interesting subject with which it purposes to deal.

Prior to the advent of the horse among the Nez Perces, they must have had a miserable existence. Their only foods must have been the roots and vege- tables indigenous to their native heath, such deer, elk and smaller game as they were able to take with their primitive weapons, and such species of fish as made their way into the seething waters of their swift- flowing rivers and mountain streams. But even at this time they must have been a vastly superior race to the Indians west of the Cascade mountains, who were dron- ing away their listless lives in "a region of large, deep rivers ; of numerous bays and inlets from the ocean extending far inland, all filled with fish of the finest and richest quality, easily taken, and hence inviting to a life of effortless indolence and ease. Hence these aborigines were short of stature, heavy and broad and fat of body ; without alertness or perception of mind ; indolent and inactive in all their habits ; sleeping away nearly all but the little time that was requisite for them

to throw their barbed harpoons into the shinning sides the salmon that swam in the shoals of the rivers and bays, and the few additional moments required to roast or boil the fish sufficient to gratify their uncultured tastes."

Even during the earliest times, the Nez Perces profited by the rigors of their elevated home, for though their food must have been scanty and insufficient, the battle for existence developed in them a sturdiness of manhood such as was unknown among the coast tribes. Their experience proved that a people can bear insuffi- cient nourishment with activity far better than abund- ance with idleness.

The Nez Perces lived in a country covered with an abundant growth of nutritious grasses, making it a paradise for a pastoral people. They were therefore in a splendid condition to raise large bands of horses and the advent among them of these animals marked the most important epoch in their history. About the middle of the eighteenth century, horses were obtained from the Spaniards of New Mexico or California. The Indians preserve the tradition of their first ac- quisition of this form of live stock, and well they may for they were thereby furnished means whereby to ad- vance by long strides toward greater comforts of life and the blessings of civilization. "There is no more instructing example of the amelioration of a savage tribe by the introduction of domestic animals and its steady growth from abject barbarism," says Hazard Stevens, "than that afforded by the Nez Perces. But little more than a century ago they were a tribe of naked savages, engaged in a perpetual struggle against starvation. Their country afforded but little game, and thev subsisted almost exclusively on salmon, ber- ries and roots. The introduction of the horse enabled them to make long journeys to the buffalo plains east of the Rocky mountains, where they could lay in great abundance of meat and furs: furnished them with a valuable animal for trading with other less favored tribes : soon raised them to comparative affluence, and developed in their hunting and trading expeditions a

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manly enterprising, shrewd and intelligent character."

The first white men to visit their country from the east overland were the famous Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, whose expedition into the country in 1805 is to be celebrated by a grand exposition in Port- land on its centennial. Of the experiences of this party among the Nez Perces the gifted Eva Emery Dye has written in the following animated language :

Lame and weary, straight across Idaho they struggled, over seams and streaks of precious metal that the saw not, the gold of Ophir concealed in the rocky chambers of the Idaho Alps,-struggled into the Lolo trail used by the In- dians for ages before any whites ever came into the country.

Over the Lolo trail went the Nez Perces to battle and to hunt buffalo in the Montana country. Down over this trail once came a war party and captured Wat-ku-ese, a Nez Perce girl, and carried her away to a distant land of white men,- So-yap-po, "the crowned ones," she called them, because they wore hats

Still ever Wat-ku-ese dreamed of her Nez Perce home, and one day escaped with her infant on her back. Along the way white traders were kind to her. On and on, foot- sore and weary, she journeyed alone. In the Flathead coun- try her baby died and was buried there. One dav some Nez Perce came over the Lolo trail bringing home Wat-ku-ese, weak, siek and dying.

She was with her people at their camas ground, Weippe, when Lewis and Clark came down over the Lolo trail.

"Let us kill them." whispered the frightened Nez Perces.

Wat-ku-ese lay dying in her tent when she heard it. "White men, did you say? No, no, do not harm them. They are the crowned ones who were so good to me. Do not be afraid of them. Go near to them."

Cautiously the Nez Perces approached. The explorers shook their hands. This was to the Indians a new form of greeting

Everywhere Indian women were digging the camas root, round like an onion, and little heaps lay piled here and there. They paused in their work to watch the strangers. Some screamed and ran and hid Little girls hid their baby broth- ers in the brush. Others brought food.

So starved and famished were the men that they ate inordinately of the sweet camas and the kouse, the biscuit root. The sudden change to a warmer elimate and laxative roots resulted in sickness, when the expedition might have been easily attacked but for those words of Wat-ku-ese, who now lav dead in her tent.

To this day the Nez Perces rehearse the story of Wat- ku-ese. It was the beginning of a life long friendship with the whites, broken only when Chief Joseph fled over the Lolo trail. But even Chief Joseph found he must give up the vast areas over which he was wont to roam, and come under the laws of civilized life.

As fast as their weakness permitted councils were held, when the Captains told the Nez Perces of the Great Father at Washington, who had sent them to visit his children.

Twisted Hair, the Nez Perce Tewat, a great medicine man, dreamer and wizard and wise one, drew on a white elkskin a chart of the rivers. Admiring redmen put their hands over their mouths in amazement.

No one but Twisted Hair could do such things. He was a learned Indian, knew all the trails, even to the Falls of the Columbia.

"White men," said he, "live at the Tim-tim (falls)."

Thus into Idaho had penetrated the story of Ko-nap-pe, the wrecked Spaniard, who with his son Soto had set out up the great river to find white people and tarried there until he died. Seven years later Astor's people met Soto, an old man dark as his Indian mother, but still the Indians called him white Twenty years later Soto's daughter was still living on the Columbia in the days of the Hudson's Bay Company.

To save time and trouble, canoes were burnt out of logs.

Leaving their horses with the Nez Perees, on October 4th the explorers were glad to get into their boats with their baggage and float down the clear Kooskooske, into the yel- low green Snake, and on into the blue Columbia.

At the confluence of the rivers medals were given and councils held on the present site. of Lewiston. Day by day, through wild, romantic scenes where white man's foot had never trod, the exultant young men were gliding to the sea.

Ahead of the boats, on horseback, galloped We-ark- koompt, an Indian express. Word flew. The tribes were watching. At the dinner camp, October 16th, five Indians came up the river on foot in great haste, took a look and started back, running as fast as they could.

That night Lewis and Clark were met at the Columbia by a procession of two hundred Indians with drums, sing- ing, "Ke-hai, ke-hai," the redmen's signal of friendship.

Speaking of their experiences among the Nez Perces, the explorers themselves used this language:

As we approached the village most of the women, though apprised of our being expected, fled with their children into the neighboring woods. The men, however, received us without any apprehension, and gave us a plentiful supply of provisions. The plains were now crowded with Indians who came to see the persons of the whites and the strange things they brought with them; but as our guide was a perfect stranger to the language we could converse by signs only.

Monday, 23d (September, 1805) .- The chiefs and war- riors were all assembled this morning and we explained to them where we came from, the objects of our visiting them, and our pacific intentions toward all the Indians. This, be- ing conveyed by signs, might not have been perfectly com- prehended, but appeared to give perfect satisfaction. We now gave a medal to two of the chiefs, a shirt in addition to the medal already received by Twisted Hair, and deliv- ered a flag and a handkerchief for the grand chief on his re- turn. To these were added a knife, a handkerchief, and a small piece of tobacco for each chief. The inhabitants did not give us any provisions gratuitously. * The * * men exchanged a few old canisters for dressed elk skins, of which they inade shirts. Great crowds of natives were around us all night, but we have not yet missed anything except a knife and a few other articles stolen yesterday from a shot pouch.

It is worthy of record that the horses entrusted to the care of Twisted Hair were kept faithfully and honestly rettirned to Lewis and Clark when they came back to the Nez Perce country on their homeward journey.

The next intercourse between whites and Nez Perces began with the advent of fur traders into the Northwest. First came Astor's party, then the North West Company and finally the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, besides several American expeditions sent out to compete with the British corporations for the profits of the fur trade. In all their relations with the white men, the Nez Perces of early days maintained a uni- form altitude of friendliness, and the fur trader who stopped to rest and refresh himself at a Nez Perce lodge was sure to receive kindly and hospitable treat- ment. Undoubtedly the Indians profited by the pres- ence among them of the merchants, from whom they obtained, besides an abundance of trinkets and tinsels, much that added greatly to their comfort. It was by the British fur traders that they were taught the use of blankets both as wearing apparel and bedding. But the Hudson's Bay men were in the country for other purposes than the amelioration of conditions among the Indians. It were unfair to assert that they were

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An illustrated history of north Idaho : embracing Nez Perces, Idaho, Latah, Kootenai and Shoshone counties, state of Idaho, Part 33

Author: Publication date: 1903 Publisher: [S.l.] : Western Historical Pub. Co. Number of Pages: 1524

Author:
Publication date: 1903
Publisher: [S.l.] : Western Historical Pub. Co.
Number of Pages: 1524