USA > Illinois > Cook County > Chicago > Chicago, the Garden city. Its magnificent parks, boulevards and cemeteries. Together with other descriptive views and sketches > Part 4
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16
PHE STABLES
1
CONSERVATORY
"THE MOUND "
Westerh Matfy
Eng. Ch
Washington Park.
47
to any great extent, except by persons of means. The only portion of the park territory that had been made accessible to the public was the northern neck of what was known as the Upper Division, but during 1874 the work was hastened along rapidly, although the Commission found itself hampered in various ways in regard to the financial management of this public enter- prise. About 200 acres of the western portion of the park were put under cultivation and then already open air concerts were given weekly in a temporary music pavilion under the direction of Hans Balatka. On these occasions the attendance was so large, that the adjoining grounds had to be thrown open to the public. These open air concerts were as early as 1874 attended by immense crowds of visitors and would have drawn still larger numbers of people, if the fare by street cars from the city would have been reduced from fifteen to five cents-the present charge. During 1874 the third new greenhouse was built and a botanical garden established, which again was abandoned three years later, so as to avoid the large and constantly increasing outlay necessary for its maintenance.
That part of the park, lying between Fifty-sixth and Sixty-seventh streets, Stony Island ave. and Lake Michigan (now Jackson Park and the site of the World's Fair) was originally named Lake Park, the western portion West Park and a tract of twenty acres at the intersection of Western ave. and Pavilion (now Garfield) boulevard, was given the name of Gage Park in memory of George W. Gage, one of the original members of the Commission.
The entire amount of land purchased was 1045 acres and up to 1875 nearly four-fifths of the west division of the park had been improved; the four inain boulevards, Grand, Drexel, Garfield and Oakwood were completed and Midway Plaisance had been constructed. The floral department was given in charge of Mr. Fred. Kanst, a gardener of great efficiency and an adept in the art of lawn decoration. During the following years unimproved sections of the territory were brought under cultivation and by December 1, 1880, the Board had acquired title to all the lands required for park purposes and some 200 acres more in the eastern portion. The Commission had to wade through a great deal of annoying litigation, which arose from the various conflicting claims of numerous land owners and agents.
As years rolled by West Park became Washington Park, and Lake Park was named Jackson Park, while the memory of Garfield was honored by changing the name of Pavilion boulevard to Garfield boulevard. In 1884 the construction of a pavement beach and sea wall was commenced in Jackson Park, so as to protect the shore against the inroads of Lake Michigan. It is now finished and forms a fit subject for admiration ; it consists of a lime- stone pavement, which has an average width of forty feet and is composed of blocks averaging twelve inches in depth, laid upon two inches of lake gravel ; at the landward edge of the pavement is set a lime-stone curbing and immediately back of this is a concrete flag walk twelve feet in width, for which the "Germania" brand of Portland Cement was used, adjoining a fifty foot drive. The top of the curbing at the back edge of the beach pavement is eight feet seven inches above city datum, being six feet six inches above water level. The surface of the pavement rises from front to rear, not on a regular incline, but in a curved line similar to that formed by the waves upon a sand beach.
The very first attempt at shore protection of a substantial character was made in 1874 at the Fifty-ninth street inlet to Jackson Park and resulted in the building of a north- and south-pier, which has formed the inlet up to the present time. Fitz Simons and Connell constructed about six thousand feet of breakwater, commencing at Fifty-sixth street and running to the present entrance to the World's Fair grounds. This sloping breakwater has proved a great success and, when kept clean of sand and debris, it forms a lovely margin to the blue waters of the lake. Mr. J. Frank Foster, the general superintendent of the South Parks, was the engineer of the work and to him is due largely the credit of having designed so effective and beautiful a shore improvement, as this one has become to be.
- 48 -
In 1876 a part of Washington Park was used as a pasture for a flock of South-down sheep. numbering sixty-eight, but this feature of park-life was soon after discarded.
Quite early in the history of the South Parks the Board entertained the desire to secure control of Michigan ave. and Thirty-fifth street (from Grand boulevard to Michigan avenue), as those streets would form an important link between the City and the Park system. The cost of improving Michi- gan boulevard so as to harmonize with the character of the other boulevards was estimated at $551,063 and after years of litigation and vexations delay the Commission has at last succeeded in improving the entire length of Michigan ave., from Jackson street to Washington Park, making it one of the finest pleasure drives in the world. About the time parks were decided upon for this city, Dr. G. H. Rauch, for many years the Secretary of the Illinois State Board of Health, in a paper read before the Academy of Sciences of this city, discussed in a very lucid and instructive manner the influence of public parks upon the moral, physical and sanitary condition of the inhabitants of large cities, and although many people may be familiar with the subject in question, it has such an intimate bearing upon the matter presented in this book, that we deem it desirable to republish a short extract therefrom.
After a brief account of the parks in the chief cities of the world, Dr. Rauch goes more fully into the question as it affects the citizens of Chicago and presents many interesting facts regarding its situation and physical re- lations. Located on the southwest shore of Lake Michigan, the land that stretchés back from it is almost as flat and low as the lake itself. The average elevation for five miles around is but twelve feet above the water level, while a large portion of the ground is depressed and swampy, with but little drainage. The land upon which the city stands is the ancient bed of the lake (which has receded far below its former level), and consists of sand-banks, clay-beds, and vegetable mould. From the flatness of the region winds have an unbroken sweep, as there are no mountains, hills, or forests to arrest them. In an area of four hundred square miles surrounding Chicago, there are hardly twenty square miles thinly covered with timber. But, as even the enterprise of Chicago is inadequate to build mountains, and as hills also are very expensive, the city has but one way left to protect itself against its special exposure, and that is, to surround itself with artificial forests.
Another aspect of the subject to which Dr. Rauch draws attention, is the sanitary influence of trees and foliage, the relations of climate to disease and of the parks to mental hygiene, and the special need which so overexcited a people as those of Chicago have for every kind of recreation and diversion. "We need parks to induce out-door exercise, and for the pleasant influences connected with them, which are so beneficial to our over-worked business men, to dyspeptics, to those afflicted with nervous diseases, and, particularly, to the consumptive. We need parks for our school children, as we have no places to which they can resort for out-of-door play, and where they can obtain healthful recreation, with the exception of the limited grounds sur- rounding the school-houses."
"The moral influence of the parks is decided. Man is brought in contact with Nature-is taken away from the artificial conditions in which he lives in cities; and such associations exercise a vast influence for good."
Dr. Rauch has indeed spoken the truth and the uses of our parks as a means of popular intellectual improvement, and their importance as an edu- cational agency in connection with the great school system of this city, are by no means yet fully recognized. Their rich array of trees, shrubs, and flowers, in their season, are not only objects of attention from their varied beauty, but they minister to a still further and most important use as objects of engaging study to the youth of the schools of Chicago.
The South Parks became more of a resort for the general public after the cable lines in Cottage Grove avenue and State street were completed a few short years ago ; previously, on account of the long distance lying be-
AMERI CKO
Sun Dial in Washington Park.
-51-
tween them and the thickly populated districts of the city and the difficulty people, not owners of private conveyances and unable to patronize livery stables, experienced in getting there, these parks principally formed the destination of the upper tendom, the wealthy and fashionable, whose elegant equipages and turnouts thronged the boulevards and park driveways. There the richly attired ladies and stylish looking gentlemen reigned supreme and the common people did not block their way. Thanks to the extension of the · afore mentioned cable car-lines way beyond the southern limits of the park territory and to the facilities afforded by the trains of the Illinois Central and the Elevated railway, all leading to these health giving pleasure grounds, men, women and children on foot are now largely in the majority in the South Parks. Especially gratifying is it to witness the signs of joy and happiness, which the little ones seem to feel when brought out here among the green trees and beautiful flowers, where their pale cheeks at once assume a healthier color, their limbs greater elasticity. Even the most distant quart- ers of the city send large delegations of tenement-house occupants, dwellers in unhealthy, disease-breeding basements to the shady meadows of the South Parks, where they spend many happy hours in the enjoyment of the blessings that kind nature and the handiwork of man have spread out before them in such glorious profusion. As early as 1873 it was found desirable to increase the attractions of Washington Park, by providing a place of resort for children and families who came by cars and were seeking their pleasure within such distances as were easily accessible on foot. To meet this want, a ramble was designed and laid out immediately south of the entrance from Drexel Boule- vard and adjacent to the car track on Cottage Grove avenue. The effect of intricacy and variety was secured by means of irregular plantations of shrub- bery, to form thickets and copses. interspersed with bits of open ground or broad lawn to serve as play grounds for children. The paths wind about among these scenes, opening new vistas or views at every turn and conveying the impression of a much more extended area than it actually occupies.
We have already endeavored to convey some idea of what the South Parks were, when they were first laid out and came into the hands of the Com- missioners, who by the way receive no pay for their services. Since then the improvements have been steadily going forward. Excellent drives, and walks, and bridle paths, and artificial lakes have been constructed and beauti- ful trees, and shrubs, and evergreens have been judiciously planted to give character and variety to the meadows and lawns; no touch of the landscape gardener could add very considerably to the fresh appearance of its glades and groves, and cool secluded nooks. The public knows how to prize the noble sycamores, the stately maples, the superb catalpas and the large variety of other magnificent trees, that adorn Washington Park and the boulevards. In short, the transformation of these grounds from a sandy waste to beautiful flower gardens, lawns and shady retreats ever was and still is a great surprise to the public.
In the Park the passing observer is very strongly impressed with the manner in which everchanging views are successively opened before him ; views, which possess every quality of complete and impressive landscape compositions. As an authority on landscape gardening remarks : "Other forms of natural scenery stir the observer to warmer admiration, but it is doubtful if any and certain that none which under ordinary circumstances man of set purpose can induce nature to supply him, are equally soothing and refreshing ; equally adapted to stimulate simple, natural and wholesome tastes and fancies, and thus to draw the mind from absorption in the interest of an intensely artificial habit of life."
In the improvement of this territory attractive and picturesque scenery has been formed and accommodations were prepared for great numbers of people, each class of which is led to enjoy and benefit by the scenery without preventing or seriously detracting from the enjoyment of it by all others. To repeat, the scenery of Washington Park is diversified and it commands fine distant views. These advantages and its exemption from factory smoke or
-52 -
foul smells compensate for the necessity the citizens are under to travel a number of miles to reach it.
Every thing is useful just in proportion as it in some way adds to human enjoyments and the Park is certainly one of the foremost things, that give pleasure to human beings.
Its civilizing and humanizing influence is something wholly incalculable. The visitors belong to every class and grade of society, and yet every one seems there to be on his good behaviour. The Commissioners have kept steadily in view the one object of making it a pleasure ground; admitting nothing, which would interfere with this, prohibiting nothing which would conduce to it. The regulation formerly quite generally in use in all of our parks: "Keep off the grass," is one of the things of the past in this Park, and any one who has seen the glee with which men, women and children repose or play upon the soft velvet sward, will see how much the actual enjoyment of the Park is enhanced by permitting the free use of the lawns. The toil- worn artisan, his weary wife and pining children are, thanks to the wise fore- thought of the Commissioners, assured that on any bright summer or autumn day they will find sward and shade open to them.
Everything done here is done according to the best rules of the land- scape gardeners art; in the process of grouping as well as in the endeavor to secure those fine contrasts of color which by a proper selection of trees and shrubs, the autumn foliage can be made to display.
According to these rules the Park shows principally the character of free and unrestricted nature, where the hand of man should not be noticed except through well kept walks and drives and the judicious distribution of buildings. The extensive territory Washington and Jackson Park occupy, of which the former contains 371, the latter 586 acres, whereto 100 acres must be added covered by Midway Plaisance, made the construction of park lands possible on a much larger and more imposing scale; than could be done in either of the other four large parks of the city. If it was possible to lift them up and carry them to the South Parks, they would all of them easily find room within the boundaries of Washington and Jackson Park. In the western part of Washington Park, near the entrance from Garfield boule- vard, is situated an open lawn containing one hundred acres, which the Com- missioners have turned over to those fond of playing "lawn tennis," "cricket" and similar out-door sports ; the Commissioners even went so far in their praiseworthy anxiety to please the public and make people feel happy, as to purchase the articles necessary for such amusements and to loan them out to the players. This character of open park scenery-of wood without under- growth and of lawn irregularly bounded by groups of large trees-is pre- served in Washington Park throughout in order that it might be left open to the public at all times, by day and by night, without risk of such abuse of its privileges as might exist, if exclusion and concealment were secured by the presence of thickets and copses of shrubbery. The wisdom of such provision for the future, when the neighborhood of the park becomes thickly inhabited, is obvious.
In the immediate vicinity of the aforesaid western park-entrance Mr. Kanst, the head gardener, has obtained very picturesque effects by means of climbing plants, which have crept up over tall tree stumps, from where they droop down in graceful garlands or stretch across shady paths to trees on the other side, thereby forming a canopy of rich foliage.
South of the large baseball lawn lies the glittering park-lake, covering an area of about twenty acres. Its green shore stretches around in graceful curves, where stately trees throw their deep shadows upon the mirror like surface of the water; upon these shores beautiful flowers bloom in great variety and children love to roam and play.
The paths and driveways through the park are without any exception laid out in such a manner, that each one of them will lead the traveler to the most advantageous points of view.
Gates Ajar in Washington Park
-55 -
Crossing over to the extreme eastern portion of Washington Park we find here the Palm House and just west of it, in the centre of a circuitious drive- way, the floral display of Mr. Kanst, his pride and the joy of the public. To get a glimpse of this panorama of flowers and plastic floral designs is indeed worth a journey from a distance. We will not attempt a description of the various figures, emblems, floral fancies as they should be called, carpet-beds rich in colors and unique in design, for everybody interested in flowers and floral decorations, every lover of the sweet-scented children of flora, should personally visit this highly fascinating spot. It required not less than 300,000 plants and flowers to embroider and embellish these emerald lawns, in which number however are included many thousands that were used for beautify- ing the center of Drexel boulevard and the surroundings of the Drexel fountain at the southern end of said boulevard. A remarkable piece of work and a triumph of art among many floral masterpieces was a portrait of General Grant, which was executed by Mr. Kanst in the spring of 1885 and elicited much favorable and well deserved comment. The interior of the palmhouse with its large variety of tropical and semi-tropical plants will also prove highly interesting to the visitor. Before we take our departure from this beautiful park let us not forget to take a look at the lily-ponds, situated only a few paces south of the palm house; here, among the numerous specimens of the family of water lilies we also behold several fully developed Virginia Regia's, the queenly sea-rose of the tributaries of the Amazon river. It truly deserves to be ranked among the foremost objects of interest and admiration in the floral kingdom, and for those who gather around these ponds with their array of lotus-plants and water-lilies, natives of China, Japan, Africa, Egypt and our own country, it forms the centre of attraction.
We find here Nymphaea odorata, N. alba, N. tuberosa, N. dentata, N. rubra and other species, but, as before remarked, the grandest of them all is the Victoria Regia. Though it was discovered by the botanist Haenke as early as 1801 and scientifically described by Professor Poeppig of Leipzic in 1832, it was not named till 1838, when Lindley dedicated it to his sovereign, and in 1850 it was for the first time introduced into cultivation through the efforts of the traveler Spruce.
The gigantic circular leaves of this wondrous plant measure six feet and more in diameter and have a turned up margin as a border from two to five inches high, giving the leaf the resemblance to a huge tray or salver. The upper surface of this leaf is of a rich green color, while the lower surface shows a purple or violet color and is traversed by ridge-like veins or ribs, which radiate from the centre and are connected by ribs running crossways, so that the entire surface below is divided into air-compartments, which give the leaf great carrying power. By placing a board upon one to distribute the weight, it is capable of holding a child from 10 to 12 years of age. The life of the flower is of short duration, lasting only two days. It opens late in the afternoon and remains open about twelve hours; during that period it is cup-shaped, from 12 to 16 inches across, with hundreds of pure white petals and very fragrant. The second day the flower again opens towards evening, but it now presents an entirely different appearance, for the petals are changed to a rosy pink color, and reflexed in the shape of a coronet, but now odorless. Towards morning the flower again closes, never again to open, and during the day it sadly sinks back into its watery bed, there to ripen its seed.
The maintenance of this grand system of parks: police protection, repairs of roads and footpaths, transplanting of trees, etc., last year required over $200,000, which figures explain better than a detailed description of the work done inside of one year for the good of the public can do, the amount of labor that has been performed.
For those, who are the fortunate owners of a buggy or carriage or who possess the means for hiring one, a drive along the broad and well kept boule- vards leading north from Washington Park into the heart of the city, or west, where the boulevard systems of the South Parks and the West Parks join
-56 -
hands, will surely prove a most enjoyable one. Those leading north are Drexel boulevard, Grand boulevard, Oakwood boulevard, Thirty-fifth street boulevard and Michigan boulevard. Drexel boulevard is 200 feet wide; it starts from Washington Park at Fifty-first street near Cottage Grove ave. and terminates at Thirty-ninth street, a point 112 miles north. It consists of a double roadway, embracing a central ornamental space 100 feet wide, arranged with paths, grass plots, magnificent floral decorations, and planted with trees and shrubs. Elegant and costly residences line this magnificent boulevard on both sides. During the year 1882 the Drexel Brothers of Philadelphia presented to the Commissioners a costly and superb bronze fountain in memory of their father, after whom also the beautiful Boulevard is named. This fountain is located at the turn of said Boulevard at Fifty- first street and is massive, unique and of beautiful design and workmanship. It is crowned by a life size bronze statue of Drexel. From the northern terminus of this boulevard Oakwood boulevard, a hundred feet wide, extends half a mile west to Grand boulevard, which has a width of 198 feet the entire length from Washington Park (at Fifty. first street) north to Thirty-fifth street, which is exactly two miles. Grand boule- vard is on the line with South Park ave., which connects at Fifty-fifth street with Garfield boulevard. It comprises a central drive-way, 55 feet wide, with a grass border 20 feet on each side, planted with rows of trees and separating it from the side roads, which are intended for business traffic. Going north in Grand boulevard we at its northern end enter Thirty-fifth street; for a distance of barely 13 of a mile, from Grand boulevard west to Michigan boulevard, this street is under the control of the Park Board as a necessary link between all the afore mentioned boulevards and Michigan boulevard, which latter leads to the business centre of the city. This boulevard is now finished its entire length, from Fifty-fifth street (Garfield boulevard) to Jackson street, a distance of 534 miles, and as a street of palatial residences it has no superior in this or any other country.
A delightful pleasure drive is afforded those, who will select Garfield boulevard (Fifty-fifth street) where it emerges from Washington Park, for a visit to the West Park system. The road here naturally leads us in a westerly direction past fine residences and stores far out into the open country, where dwelling houses as yet are thinly scattered.
Garfield and Western avenue boulevards, the connecting links, have a length of over six miles and the greater part of the way they pass through wide stretches of prairie, which as far as the eye can reach is profusely stud- ded with lovely wild flowers, who merrily bow and nod in the breezes.
That part of the boulevard, which leads from Washington Park directly west over Fifty-fifth street, is called Garfield boulevard in honor of our lamented President, James A. Garfield.
It has a uniform width of 200 feet and is lined on both sides of the main drive way with three rows of shade trees. At the intersection of Western ave., which is distant 312 miles from the point where Garfield boulevard emerges from Washington Park, the boulevard turns north and follows in the road of Western avenue, from which it has taken its name, for a distance of 2.81 miles, until it reaches the Illinois and Michigan Canal, where it crosses by means of a neat drawbridge, constructed by the South Park Commissioners. Between Fifty-fifth street and this Canal the boulevard is enclosed along the western border for long distances by beautiful shrubs and small groves, that lend an additional charm to the landscape, through which the road passes. We behold here a natural garden, in which we can not fail to see the painstaking care of the gardener with sprinkling cart and pruning knife. North of Thirty-ninth street the boulevard passes through Brighton Park, where a small but very picturesque flower garden enhances the beauty of the immediate vicinity and where stately elms and catalpas throw their cool shade over rustic seats and lovely walks. Western avenue boulevard is 200 feet wide, the same as Garfield boulevard.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.