USA > Illinois > Cook County > Chicago > Chicago, the Garden city. Its magnificent parks, boulevards and cemeteries. Together with other descriptive views and sketches > Part 5
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Residence of Mrs. Catharine Seipp, Michigan Boulevard and 33d Street.
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AREAS AND DISTANCES, S. PARKS AND BOULEVARDS.
Total Area. Acres.
Total (Imp'v'd Length Drives Miles. Miles.
Jackson (East) Park.
586
1.50
Washington (West) Park
371
6.06
Gage Park.
20
Midway Plaisance.
80
1.38
Grand boulevard, 198 ft. wide.
2.00
3.55
Drexel boulevard, 200 ft. wide.
1.48
3.05
Oakwood boulevard, 100 ft. wide.
.50
.50
Michigan avenue boulevard.
5.73
3.73
Thirty-fifth street boulevard.
.32
.32
Garfield boulevard, 200 ft. wide.
3.50
3.75
Western ave. boulevard, 200 ft. wide.
2.81
1.29
Fifty-seventh st. boulevard, 100 ft. wide
.03
.03
Totals.
1057
16.37
25.16
The present Commissioners are the following gentlemen: Joseph Don- nersberger, President; Martin J. Russell, Auditor ; John B. Sherman, William Best and J. W. Ellsworth. H. W. Harmon is Secretary and John R. Walsh, Treasurer.
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THE WEST CHICAGO PARKS.
The first Board of West Chicago Park Commissioners consisted of the following gentlemen: Geo. W. Stanford, President; E. F. Runyan, Auditor; Isaac R. Hitt, Clark Lipe, David Cole. Chas. C. P. Holden and Henry Greene- baum. Treasurer. The act of legislature creating this board was approved Feb. 27, 1869. The commissioners were not appointed by the Governor, how- ever, until April 26, nearly two months later. The labor incident to selecting the lands necessary for the Parks and public grounds contemplated by the law creating the board, and acquiring the title to the same, was greater than was at first anticipated; the conflicting interests of real estate owners and the de- mands and necessities of the public were to be harmonized. While the law prescribed the limits within which these Parks should be located, still the par- ticular locality within these limits was a matter left to the discretion and judgment of the board.
By a resolution adopted June 25, 1869, the preliminary labor of selecting or designating locations for these public improvements was devolved upon a special committee of three, consisting of Messrs. GREENEBAUM, HITT, and RUNYAN, who spent some time and labor in securing to the public, locations for these Parks which should be accessible to the great mass of the people over some public means of travel, and still be within such distance of the bus- iness and residence portion of the city as to be readily accessible to pedestrians and carriages.
Under the law, the board was required to locate and establish a Boulevard running from the north branch of the Chicago river, commencing at a point north of Fullerton Avenue, running thence west, one mile or more west of Western Avenue, and thence southerly, with such curves and deviations as the board should deem expedient, to the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad line, and on line of said Boulevard to establish three Parks: the north Park to be in size not less than 200 acres, to cost not to exceed $250,000, to be located north of Kinzie Street; the middle Park to be located between Kinzie and Harrison Street, to be in size not less than 100 acres, and to cost not to exceed $400,000; the southern Park to be not less than 100 acres in size, and to cost not to exceed $250,000, to be located south of Harrison Street, and north of the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad line,-the aggregate cost of Parks and Boulevards not to exceed $1,050,000.
It will be seen that the power of the board was so prescribed by limitations and restrictions, that the selecting and procuring of the lands within the limits designated, and for the price or cost indicated, and at the same time within a reasonable distance of the residence portion of the city, was a problem of no easy solution.
It is only by remembering the sandy desert out beyond the former west- ern limits of our city, and the marshy prairie land of the years gone by that one can realize the wonders that have been worked in making this seeming Nature what it is. That thickets and trees abound; that vines clamber up over trellises and the walls of the great palm houses; that calm lakes reflect the blue heavens or white clouds; that Nature has been tamed and civilized and her ruggedness and her softness woven into a garment for the earth-this can only be appreciated by remembering how all this territory looked in 1869 or by seeing how some of the adjacent similar lots and acres look now. The supply of this city with pure lake water was the noblest labor, but the gift of its great lings or breathing places ranks next. They are favorite resorts at all seasons of the year. In summer, there is the leafy quiet and almost breath-
A.V. HUMBOLDT
The Humboldt Monument in Humboldt Park.
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less stillness of the summer-woods; there is the drowsy hum of the bee, and ceaseless whir-r-r of the humming-bird's wing, as it poises in air before a flower its little body of green and gold. There is the sweet monotony of the splash of fountains or ripple of little cascades, lulling the senses into half-for- getfulness, till one dreams that the noisy city has ceased to exist, and that the enchanted gardens of some new Alhambra environ him forever. There is the deep green of the grass, the darker emerald of the leaves, the density of vines and thickets, the faint perfume of summer flowers; and in the holy hush of imitated Nature the rabbit lifts it great ears and eyes without fear, the splen- did peacock suns its great eye-embroidered fan and the stately swans sit motion- less on the water, like birds of snow in realms of blue, and await the pleasure of the goddess of the lake.
In autumn, when the spirit of the breeze has invaded the sylvan solitudes, and the genii of the season have fired each thicket with gold and crimson, and strewed the grass with the purpling spoils of all the trees; when the vases overflow with floral treasures and the song-birds wake up to pipe a farewell to the flowers; when the enchanted summer-sleep is broken by the first breath of the spirit of the north and the quick-moving children come to look brighter than the birds and sweeter than the passing flowers -- the great Parks are a thing of beauty still.
When winter comes to spread her broad white mantle over the grave of the dead grass and shelter with her cold beauty the delicate roots of the flowers; when the delicate birds and animals ( of Lincoln Park ) are also sheltered and the lakes harden their bosoms into ice; when beautiful girls and strong men buckle on the steel wings to their feet, and the swiftly-darting forms look like the broken fragments of some rainbow of humanity; when the short winter- day has furled itself in the blue blankets of the night and the great moon looks down to flood the white landscape with pale glory and tip every barren branch with silver; or when the modest light of stars hesitates in rivalry with brighter eyes, and electric lights arise and recreate the day-then too, the Parks are beautiful.
On the 15th day of July, 1869, the committee submitted to the public ten plans or suggestions for the locations of the Parks. These were exhibited for ten days thereafter, and offers for the sale of lands and donations of the same invited. The result was that no offers were received, whereupon the com- mittee prepared three other plans or suggestions, which were, on the 5th day of August, submitted to the public, and donations again solicited.
The result was that donation for a portion of the Boulevards were made, and 14 acres promised conditionally, to be used in the purchase of the north- ern Park. The committee having this matter in charge, made their report to the board on the 19th day of August, setting forth the plans which had been submitted to the public, and reporting the donations made or promised. Final action was not taken on this report until the 4th day of November, 1869, when the board definitely fixed and established the lines and boundaries of Parks and Boulevards.
By the action of the board, a system of public Parks and pleasure ways was secured, which combined all the advantages which the topographical nature of the country afforded, having due regard to the means of access, and proximity to the city. The boundaries of the Parks having been established, the great work undertaken had just been entered upon; to secure the title to these lands at prices which should be fair and equitable, as between the public and the owner, gave rise to prolonged negotiations. The Park Commissioners were in the market desiring to buy these lands, without money or means of getting it until special assessments could be levied and collected. Prices of lands in the vicinity of the Parks, under the excitement which existed during the early part of 1869, had run up to a high figure, from which owners were slow to recede, yet the board was so thoroughly convinced that the prices asked were speculative and not the real value, that they refused to buy except in cases where concessions of from 20 to 25 per cent were made from these ex- treme prices.
The Commissioners were willing to pay for the lands, taking the value as it should be determined by the assessors appointed by the courts to condemn
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the same. They were willing to ascertain this value without appealing to the court, and much time and labor was expended in establishing or agreeing upon the true rule to be followed in determining this question. That insisted upon by the board, was to enquire what was the value of the lands taken for the improvement contemplated at the time the same were selected, without regard to any effect which the contemplated improvements might have upon other lands in the vicinity.
Upon this basis, substantially. the purchases were conducted-making the purchase money payable in three installments, thus dividing the special assess- ments into three annual assessments, instead of raising it by one assessment, as would have been necessary if the land had been secured by condemnation.
The resources of the board from which to realize money to pay for lands thus purchased, were. 1. The power to levy and collect special assessments upon the real estate deemed benefited. 2. The right to issue bonds to pay the amount found payable by the public; and 3. To issue bonds to pay any deficiency which might exist after exhausting the other resources of the board.
The first assessment made by the assessors was for the sum of $231,835.73, which was confirmed by the Circuit Court, and extended on the general Tax Warrant for the year 1870. The amount collected under this warrant, less commission for collecting, was $169,887.51, the balance, $55.810.91. was re- ported to the County Court at the August term, 18:1. as delinquent, and judg- ment rendered against the property. Parties contesting this tax in the County Court perfected appeals from this judgment to the Circuit Court about the 15th day of September following, and were pending in the Circuit Court at the time of the destruction of the records of said Court by the great fire, October 9. 1871. Accordingly, measures were taken to restore the Record of Appeals taken by delinquent owners; and the second assessment authorized by law, amounting to $212,108.51, was made, and reported to the Circuit Court for confirmation.
During the year 1871, four artesian wells were sunk, one in each of the parks, and one in Humboldt Boulevard. The sinking of these wells was then a matter of necessity, as at that time the municipal water mains did not extend to those distant parts of the city. The well in Central Park is 1,220 feet deep, the one in Douglas Park 1.165 and the well in Humboldt Park 1, 155 feet deep. The well in Humboldt Boulevard is located in Maplewood, at a point nearly midway between the eastern terminus of the Boulevard and Logan Square.
In 1868, the year before the Park Act was passed, the land added by this Act to the city, were assessed and paid taxes on a valuation of $429,660; in 1872, the same lands were assessed and paid taxes on a city assessment of $9,506.230. This increase in the value of real estate was attained during a period of the time most trying to the City of Chicago and its interests-a fear- ful conflagration in a few hours wiping out of existence a vast amount of its wealth, utterly ruining many of its most active citizens, and followed in a few months by a depression in business generally, reaching to every person in the country, with a stringency in money centres which for a time threatened the overthrow of all classes; vet through it all. these lands have steadily from year to year advanced, and they have been an important element in securing this result, arithout which other important interests would have been diverted to more favorable localities; they have formed the nucleus around which all other interests have centered.
Soon after the terrible conflagration of Oct. 8 and 9, 1871, it was suggested by the city press that, with relics from the ruins, a monument ought to be erected in Garfield Park, which should be unique in construction, and serve to commemorate in some degree the fearful effect of the fiery elements which had swept over the fairest portion of our city. Seizing upon the suggestion thus made, the Board adopted a plan, affording opportunity to cut in lasting marble the grateful acknowledgments of a suffering city. The ceremony of laying the corner stone came off on the 30th of October, 1872, when it was laid with Masonic ceremonies, in the presence of a large number of citizens. From the address of Hon. S. S. Hayes, who was one of the principal speakers on that occasion, the following may be quoted in reference to the great Chicago fire:
Residence of Win. Schmidt, near Lincoln Park.
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"On the night of Oct. 8th, 1871, the Great Fire broke forth and raged with resistless fury until the close of the next day, when by the blessing of Divine Providence its ravages were stayed.
It was the greatest conflagration of which history gives an account, un- less we except the burning of Moscow on the 15th and 16th of September, 1812. The great fire in London in 1666 did not equal it in extent, or the amount of loss. The London fire swept a space a mile long and half a mile wide, and the value of buildings and goods consumed was estimated at from fifty to sixty million dollars. In the burning of Moscow, the private loss by the destruction of houses and their contents, exclusive of public buildings, was calculated at one hundred and fifty millions of dollars. The Chicago fire devastated a space nearly a mile in width and three miles and a half in length, containing two thousand acres. Forty churches, fifty hotels, and nearly all the public buildings, newspaper oflices, banks, theatres and finest wholesale and retail storehouses, besides thousands of dwellings, many of the most costly character, were laid in ashes. The number of buildings destroyed was 17,450; of persons rendered homeless, 98,500. The losses on property of all descriptions aside from depreciation of land, were estimated at two hundred millions of dollars. No one who beheld those terrible scenes can ever forget them. The earth and air for miles a pandemonium of flames, full of all hor- rors, the roaring hurricane of fire sweeping down and devouring massive blocks of brick, stone and iron as though they were wood, terror-stricken people half clad crowding the streets and fleeing for their lives, some into the water of Lake Michigan, others to the suburbs and adjacent country, over one hundred thousand men, women and children without shelter or food, the water supply destroyed, the firemen and police worn out or saving their families, no hope of preserving any part of the city except from the continuance of the south- west wind-such was the dreadful scene that neither tongue nor pen can des- cribe. And through these trying scenes what self-sacrifice, what devotion, what tenderness, what endurance, feeble women carrying from the flames the aged and infirm, little children suppressing their terror to comfort their stricken parents, and men became giants in energy, and everywhere risking their lives, and spending their last strength to rescue the helpless, and save them from impending death.
A few brave men were still fighting the fire, and mining the buildings with gunpowder, on the South Side, others trying to rescue and succor the helpless. A little band of heroes from Milwaukee were making the last stand with their engines at Iundliana street bridge. The last almost hopeless efforts' were blessed with success. The fire was arrested and driven slowly from its prey. But the great and beautiful city was in ashes; its glory and its pride were in the dust, a boundless expanse of blackened ruins. For miles there was no sight or sound of life, only smoking heaps, solitary chimneys and towers, broken portals and ragged and tottering walls, with here and there the spectral outline of some great building empty and roofless and bare, a mournful scene of lonely desolation. We all know that Chicago has risen again in greater magnificence than before. This was to be expected from the speedy resurrection of Rome, of London and of Moscow. It was also to be expected from the sagacity, the foresight, the patient industry, the indom- itable courage and the high intelligence of our people. Individuals have lost their all, but the city knows no loss; it stands with its resources undiminished, its trade, its population, the value of its property largely increased. The burnt district in the business quarter in a single year has been mostly rebuilt in a style of greater solidity and of surpassing beauty. Two-thirds of the dwellings have been restored. In another year scarcely a vestige of the Great Fire will remain. This monument is being erected to keep that event in re- membrance, to make known to future ages our sense of its magnitude, our thankfulness to a merciful Providence for our rapid recovery, and our heart- felt and endless gratitude to a sympathising world for their over-flowing kind- ness, their unmeasured benefactions in the time of our suffering."
Central Park was opened to the public in August, 1874, and the throng of people who visited the park on the occasion, and the concert days thereafter, was a highly satisfactory demonstration of the interest taken in the parks.
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From the origin of the West Park Board in 1869, until March 1st, 1877, the important offices and practical control of the Board had been in the same hands, until the retirement of E. F. Runyan, in the fall of 1876and the appoint- ment of Hon. J. F. A. Muus as his successor caused a change in the balance of power, resulting in the election of Clark Lipe, President; Alden C. Millard, Sec- retary. and B. Loewenthal, Esq., President of the International Bank, Treas- urer; instead of Messrs. Stanford President, and Greenebaum Treasurer, who had from the first occupied their respective positions.
The Governor, at this time, attempted to remove four of the members, namely: Clark Lipe, President; A. C. Millard, Secretary; A. Mnus and C. C. P. Holden, from the office of Park Commissioners; and on October 8th, 1877, each of the Commissioners named received a communication from the Gover- uor, from which the following is an extract:
SIR: It has been evident for some time that the Board of West Chicago. Park Commissioners. as at present constituted, has lacked the harmony neces- sary to enable it to do its duty in a manner which should be a credit to the individual members, and command the respect and confidence of the citizens of the town of West Chicago. The Board is divided into two parties, which seem to be irreconcilable, each demanding the removal of the whole or part of the opposing faction. I am fully convinced that in their capacity of Commis- sioners, the present members of the Board of West Chicago Park Commission- ers do not possess the kind of qualifications which are necessary to the dis- charge of the duties of said office, and that the successful administration of the Parks of West Chicago demands a change in said Board. I, therefore, by virtue of the power vested in me by the Constitution of the State of Illinois, do hereby remove C. C. P. Holden, Alden C. Millard, Clark Lipe, and J. F. Adolph Muus, West Chicago Park Commissioners, and declare their offices vacant.
S. M. CULLOM, Governor.
On October 11th the Governor appointed the following named gentlemen West Chicago Park Commissioners: Peter Schüttler to succeed C. C. P. Holden, Emil Wilken to succeed Alden C. Millard, Sextus N. Wilcox to suc- ceed Clark Lipe, and E. E. Wood to succeed J. F. Adolph Muus. Peter Schüttler declined to accept the said appointment as to himself, and there- upon the Governor appointed John Brenock in his place.
The Commissioners removed pronounced the Governor's action illegal and unconstitutional and appealed to the courts for protection. Long and weary litigation followed, and by a decision of the Supreme Court the Governor was sustained in his removals; the assumption of a life interest in the office of Commissioner was limited to a term of seven years.
The new administration, although organized on the 15th of March, 1878, did not gain possession of the office, books and documents until the 5th day of July following, when the financial affairs of the Board were found to be in an unsatisfactory condition : some time was required to ascertain the amount of the immediate liabilities of the Board for men's wages, bills for supplies for the Parks and amount of overdue interest, and the available resources to meet such claims.
The new Board of Commissioners was composed of the following gentle- men. Willard Woodard, President; Samuel II. MeCrea, Sextus N. Wilcox, John Brenock, Auditor; Emil Wilken, E. Erwin Wood, George Rahlfs. Ber- thold Loewenthal was Treasurer and R. McChesney Secretary. The follow- ing year Mr. John Buehler was appointed Treasurer and E. E. Wood Secretary.
Many of the primary plans for developing the grounds and obtaining the best results from the unpromising blank on which first to operate-a flat, naked, cold and undrained prairie of clay, destitute of any natural beauty, in landscape or otherwise-were of necessity experimental, and in some instances required the handling and re-handling of earth two or three times to obtain satisfactory results. Earth suited to the requirements of tree, shrub and lawn nature had not supplied, and without a soil loamy and rich, no shady grove or velvety lawn was possible. To supply this necessity, therefore, it became necessary to make up artificially large quantities of compost, involving much
HUMBOLDT PARK
HUMBOLDT PARK. CHICAGO.
M.FRIEDERANY
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labor and expense in collection and subsequent treatment of its ingredients. Garfield (then Central) Park was the first battle ground. The experimental park, though only partially developed, was thrown open to public use fully four years before cither of the others, and during these four years the Park management were gaining in experience and wisdom, which accrued to the benefit of the other parks when active work was commenced therein. This work was continued in Douglas and Humboldt Parks under more favorable conditions. Labor and material were cheaper, and with the experience ob- tained a given sum of money obtained a greater and more perceptible amount of improvement than a like sum would or could have done during the carlier labors of the Board. And, fortunately for the taxpayers, arrangements were concluded by the Board by which two of the largest railway companies enter- ing Chicago disposed of the earth and ordure from their stock cars so that it was conveniently situated and readily available for use in any of the parks. The debit value of Garfield Park was increased by an abortive attempt to commemorate the great fire of 1871 by the afore mentioned monument, which entailed a cost of nearly $14,000, and which has long become a part of the earth surrounding it.
Up to 1882 the citizens could not expect rapid development, much less great perfection of Park and Boulevards, while the Board had but the limited revenue of $100,000 from which all expense, both of new work and maintain- ing the old was taken. Thereafter a petition was presented and a bill intro- duced to the Legislature, providing for an additional tax of two and one-half mills, which added nearly $90,000.00 to the income.
A movement sprung up in 1880 among certain property owners on the line of Humboldt Boulevard, with the intention to secure the building of a driveway similar to that connecting Garfield and Humboldt Parks, to extend north and east, and eventually connect with some similar driveway extending west from Lincoln Park. The Board then owned in the town of Jefferson the right of way for Boulevard purposes, extending north and east from Hum- boldt Park to Western Avenue, a distance of about 13.000 feet. That town at that time contributed in part the expense of grading and of planting trees.
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