Chicago then and now : a pictorial history of the citys development and a reprint of the first city directory published in Chicago by J.W. Norris in 1844, Part 2

Author: Butt, Ernest; Norris, James Wellington, 1815?-1882
Publication date: 1933
Publisher: Chicago : Aurora, Finch & McCullouch
Number of Pages: 222


USA > Illinois > Cook County > Chicago > Chicago then and now : a pictorial history of the citys development and a reprint of the first city directory published in Chicago by J.W. Norris in 1844 > Part 2


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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DESCRIPTION AND


the discoverers of other portions of our country, we have failed to pay suitable tribute to the memory of these first pioneers in the region we inhabit-these pilgrim fathers of the West. If, to pene- trate thousands of miles into the heart of a continent, bidding adieu for months to the comforts of home, braving hunger and thirst, and the savage, can be said to command our admiration and gratitude, then these men have . distinguished claims upon us who are now reaping the fruits of all their toils and sufferings. The earliest of these expeditions, as well as the mnost distinguished, were those of Marquette and La Salle. The former occurred in the year 1673, and resulted in the discovery of the Mississippi, the original object and design of the expedition. To this expedition, is probably to be ascribed the honor of paying the first visit to Chicago, it being the prevailing opinion that it passed through here on its return to Canada, ascending the Illinois River and crossing to Michigan. Perrot, by some writers. is believed to have been here a few years earlier. The story of Marquette, who voluntarily remained among the Illinois Indians, and found at last a solitary grave on the eastern shore of Michigan, at the mouth of a river bearing his name, is familiar to all.


With the expedition of La Salle, in 1680, Chicago cannot be so clearly identified. This expedition, however, was productive of more important consequences to the West, generally, than the pre- ceding one. The Mississippi was navigated to its mouth ; forts at favorable points, erected ; the shores of the great Lakes thoroughly explored ; and permanent settlements, at several points, commenced. The expeditions which succeeded those of Marquette and La Salle, were of minor importance, being principally designed to sustain the colonies already planted, and to prosecute the traffic which had previously been entered into with the natives. Although no posi- tive testimony exists on the subject, it is highly probable that Chi- cago was frequently visited by the French, during their passages to and from the West. Having once been here. they must ever after have appreciated the advantages of the situation, both in a con- mercial and military point of view. Their sagacity in these matters seldom failed them. In their magnificent scheme of a chain of mili- tary posts, connecting Canada and the Gulf of Mexico, Chicago. doubtless, formed an important link, being at the head of the Lakes, and affordling so many facilities to attain the interior.


The French Colonies in the West, sustained by emigration, con- tinned from the first to prosper and flourish. Under the general name of Lonisiana, which they assumed at a later period, they were made the frequent subject of grants from the crown, to individuals and companies. About 1717, they are found the property of the celebrated Mississippi Company, which, at the time, gave rise to much speculation throughout Europe. At the close of the French and Indian War, Louisiana was transferred, by treaty, to the Eng- lish. During the Revolution, the Territory comprising the present State of Illinois, becoinc, by conquest, the property of Virgivia, by which State it was erected into a County. under the name of the County of Illinois


Virginia ceded it to the General Government at the time of the cession of Western lands, by the Eastern States. In 1800, the pre- sent State of Illinois became a part of Indiana Territory, having a


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HISTORICAL SKETCH.


population of about 3000. In 1809. it became a Territory by itself, with a population of 12,282, and in 1818, was adinitted into the Union.


On the third day of Angust, 1795, at the treaty held by General Wayne, with the Pottawatamies and other tribes at Greenville, the title to six miles square of territory, at the mouth of Chikajo River. as it is expressed in the treaty, was obtained by the United States. From the language of this treaty, it appears that a fort had formerly stood on the land thus ceded, which renders it pretty certain, that the French, who alone could have required anything of the sort, had made a settlement here, many years before. In 1-04, Fort Chicago was built on the site of the present Fort. Ahout the same time, the American Fur Company, having been organised shortty before, established a trading station. under the protection of the Garrison. The little colony thus planted here, some forty years ago. for military and trading purposes, may be regarded as the first at- teinpt to effect a permanent settlement of Chicago. The regular and monotonous life led by this little community, for the first eight years, afforded few incidents worthy of particular notiec. In 1812, how- ever, the war broke ont with, England, the consequences of which were peculiarly disastrous to all the Western settlements, exposed as they were, especially those in Hlinois, to the hostility of neigh- boring tribes of Indians. The causes which conspired to render the Indians hostile at this time, are generally well understood, and may be traced to the machinations of Tecumseh, and other English emis- saries, whose influence extended through all the tribes. being felt as far as the remote regions of Lake Superior. Chicago being then an extreme frontier post in this direction, and the country in every direction around it, hill of Indians, with a force inadequate to its defence, was considered so much endangered as to require its evaeu- ation. This being resolved upon at Detroit, C'apt. Heald, the officer in command here at the time, received an order to abandon the Fort, and proceed with the troops to Fort Wayne. This evacuation, on account of the fatal consequences which followed it, and the faet, that some of our present citizens were themselves here, and had friends here at the time, has always been regarded with interest, and may be considered a memorable event in the annals of Chicago. The transaction may, therefore, not inappropriately be given some- what in detail, in this connection. Beside the Garrison, there were several families residing here at the time. Mr. Jolin Kinzie, father of John H. Kinzie, Esq., present Register of the Land Office in this City, occupied a hanse on the North side of the River, a little East of the present site of the Lake Honse. The evacuation took place on the 15th of Angust, six days after the reception of the order from . Gen. Hull, and the day before the disgraceful surrender of Detroit. by that officer, and not after, as some writers have erroneously re- presented it. In the mean time. a larger body of Indians, mostly of the Potawatamie nation, had assembled in the vicinity of the Fort. This has generally been represented as a voluntary movement on the part of the Indians-but the most correct opinion appears to be, that Capt. Heald collected them himself, requiring of them an escort for the troops, and promising to give them the factory stores, a conside- rable quantity of which, were on hand at the time. Whether this be the fact, or not, sonie understanding of the kind undoubtedly


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existed on the part of the Indians, and the non-fulfilment of the agreement, by Capt. Heald, according to their expectations, may have occasioned the line of conduct which they subsequently adopted, which proved fatal to the lives of 55 of the party, and bad well nigh brought about the destruction of the whole. The stores on hand were composed in part of a quantity of liquor, and some arms and amunition. These it was deemed imprudent to give the Indians-and they were destroyed, a part being thrown into the River, and the residne deposited in a well within the Fort. One of the anns thus disposed of, a brass piece, was found a few years since, by some people employed in dredging the River-another, it is said, remains there to this day. The stores not destroyed were distribu- ted to the Indians. Under these circumstances, about nine o'clock, on the morning of the 15th of Angust, the party, composed of 54 regulars, 12 miltia, and several families, amounting in all to about 70 persons, left the Fort, under the escort of Capt. Wells, and about 30 Miami Indians. Their route lay along the beach of the Lake, between the water on the left, and a succession of sand hills on the right. They had proceeded about a mile and a half from the Fort, and had attained a point a short distance beyond the present resi- dence of Mr. H. B. Clarke. and were advancing, unconscious of dan- ger. when ('apt. Wells, who it appears, had strayed for some pur- pose, some distance from the main body, discovered the Indians in unbush behind the sand hills. At the same time, another party was seen interposing in the rear, between them and the Fort. which they had just left. The alarm was immediately given-the dead march struck up, and the troops marched directly up the bank, upon the Indians. The action did not commence, as has generally been represented, by firing, on the part of the Indians. After firing one round, the troops charged, and succeeded in dispersing the Indians in front. But the disparity of numbers was too great. The most determined bravery was displayed by the troops, but it could avail little against the superior force opposed to them, protected by the sand hills belnad which it had entrenched itself. In 15 minutes, nearly the whole party were killed or wonnded, and all the baggage in the possession of the enemy. C'apt. Heald drew off his men. nto the open prairie, and took possession of a slight elevation, out of reach of the bank, and every other cover. The Indians, after some consultation, made signs for Capt. Heald to approach them. He was met by a Potawatamie Chief, called Blackbird, who requested him to surrender. promising to spare the lives of the whole party, in case of compliance. After some parley, the terms were agreed to, and the arnis delivered up. The survivors were marched back to the Indian encampment, near the Fort, about the spot where State Street now opens to the River, and where the present Market is located. Here, some of the prisoners, those who had been wounded, were murdered in the most shocking manner, by the squaws, who appeared to take great delight in exercising their knives and besmearing them in the blood of their unfortunate victims. 'The small number surviving, were distributed, according to the cus- tom of the savages, among the different members of the tribe. Mr. Kozie. Sen, however, whose family, from the first, had been pro- tected by some friendly chiefs, although he was himself engaged in the action, with the troops-succeeded in procuring the release of


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Capt. Heald and lady, who were sent by him to St. Joseph, and thence to Mackinaw, whence they made their escape. The remain- der of the prisoners were retained, but, it is said, were treated with great kindness, and most of them surrendered to the British, at Detroit, in the following spring. The day following the action, the Indians burnt down the Fort, and dispersed. Such are the leading particulars of this unfortunate action, collected, principally, from an eye-witness of the whole. Capt. Heald has been subjected to much blame, a portion of which was undoubtedly merited. His management of the Indians was injudicious throughout, and the destruction of the stores, to say the least, imprudent. The evacua- tion, under existing circumstances, was remonstrated against, by Mr. Kinzie and Capt. Wells, both of whom, from long intercourse with the Indians, had become familiar with their character, and were enabled to anticipate and foretell the result which ensued. Capt. Wells had been bred an Indian warrior, and was a brave and skilful soldier. He unfortunately fell early in the action, and was found with his face blackened, after the manner of the Savages, when they nieet with disappointment.


The Fort was rebuilt in 1817, when it took the name of Fort Dearborn. It was occupied, except at short intervals, by a Gar- rison, until 1837, when, the Indians having generally left the coun- try, it was finally evacuated, and has never since been re-occupied as a military post. It remains in much the same condition as in '37, except the pallisades, which were removed, the past spring, and their place supplied by a handsome fence. It has since been occu- pied by officers and agents in charge of the public works, and their families. Fort Dearborn being almost the ouly memento of the past, in the midst of so many creations of the day-the necessity of any alteration in its appearance is to be regretted.


Until 1832, and even so late as 1833, little or nothing was done towards making a commencement of the City-it probably not en- tering into the imagination of any one, previous to that time, that a town of any importance was to be here at all, at least, not for many years. In 1832, its appearance and condition was much the same as in 1823, when Major Long, who visited the place that year, de- scribes it " as presenting no cheering prospects, and containing but few huts, inhabited by a miserable race of men, scarcely equal to the Indians, from whom they were descended-and their log or bark houses as low, filthy, and disgusting, displaying not the least trace of comfort, and as a place of business, affording no inducements to the settler-the whole amount of trade on the Lake, not exceeding the cargos of five or six schooners, even at the time when the Gar- rison received its supplies from Mackinaw." This picture, though perhaps too highly colored, presents, in the main, a correct view of Chicago, in 1832. In 1830, there had been a sale of Canal lots. the best bringing only fifty or one hundred dollars, many of which have since become the most valuable in the City. Up to about that time, the present most business, and densely populated part of the City, was fenced, and used by the Garrison, for some purpose of hus- bandry, or pasturage. So late as '35 or '6, the fires usual on the prairies in the fall, overran the third and fourth wards. There were only some five or six houses, built mostly of logs, and a population of less than one hundred.


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DESCRIPTION AND


One of these houses, formerly the property of the Fur Company, was, until a short time past, occupied by Col. Beaubien. About 80 rods to the south of that, stood a house, once occupied by Colonel Owings, but since washed away by the Lake. A house, known as "Cobweb Castle," on block No. 1, was formerly the abode of Dr. Alexander Wolcott.


The dwelling of Mr. John Kinzie stood East of the Lake House. A log building at the corner of Dearborn and South Water Streets, and the ouce celebrated tavern of Mr. Mark Beaubien, on the site of the Sauganash. generally known as the Eagle, together with a building on block 14, and a cabin, occupied by Robinson, the In- dian Chief at Wolf Point, constituted all the buildings, except the Fort, to be found here in 1832. Sometime this year, however, Robert A. Kinzie built a store at Wolf Point, the first frame build- ing in Chicago. In 1834, several brick buildings were erected.


The commerce of the place, up to this period, was equally insig- nificant. In fact, there was none, unless the traffic of the Fur Com- pany, can be dignified with that name. Vessels occasionally ven- tured here, but so seldom, that the arrival of a schooner was an event of no little moment, and created a sensation throughout the community. The year 1832, may then be regarded as the period from which to date the commencement of the City. Many causes, the Indian war among them, conspired, about this time, to bring Chicago into general notice. What was called the " Western Fever," had begun to rage generally, throughout the country .- Thousands were flocking from the East, to seek homes in the West. The first premonitions of the speculating mania, had manifested themselves. Eligible sites for towns and cities, were sought out, and eagerly appropriated. The superior advantages of Chicago, in this period of general enquiry, when enterprise was universally aroused, and incited by the hope of sudden wealth, could not long escape public attention.


The attention of Congress had been called to the importance and necessity of a harbor, and an appropriation was confidently relied upon at the next session. Gen. Scott, who explored the country during the Indian war, took a lively interest in this work, and ad- dressed a letter in relation to it, which was subsequently laid be- fore Congress. The construction of the Illinois and Michigan Canal, had also been finally resolved upon by the State legislature. Active measures were being taken to survey the different routes, and to estimate the cost of the various plans proposed. Hence the commencement, and completion of this important work at no distant day, might confidently be relied upon. The resources of the State, too, were beginning to be more generally known, and better ap- preciated. The most alluring reports of the character of the soil -its productiveness-the facilities for making farms on our prairies -together with the salubrity of the climate, were circulated far and wide. The most strenuous exertions were made, and with the most signal success, to promote emigration. Enterprise, stimulated by interest, and the hope of gain, was aroused, calling forth and con- centrating upon this one object, all the resources and capabilities of the age. Capital was enlisted, and credit and unlimited confidence invoked to its aid. Money, owing to excessive bank, and even pri- vate issues, was abundant, and loans to any amount were effected


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HISTORICAL SKETCH.


with the greatest case. The West suddenly became the centre of teu's thoughts and wishes, and Chicago, as the most important point in the West, the goal to which all directed their aspirtions.


Such are some of the prominent causes which may be said, at the period referred to, to have given the first impulse to the City. That it grew and prospered as it did, under their operation, will excite no surprise-the result could not well have been otherwise. Its progress, accordingly, until about '37 has no parallel-it was rapid in the extreme. Buildings went up as if by magic-stores were opened by the hundred, and speedily filled with merchandize; people of every calling and pursuit in life, laborers, mechanics, and professional nien, influenced by a common purpose-the hope of success in their several spheres of action-came together here, and entered at once with a zeal and activity into the schemes of improve- ment projected. The sale of Canal lots in 1830, has been already mentioned. In 1833, a great Indian payment was held here, near the present site of the Lake House. In the latter part of this year, the work on the harbor was commenced-and during the same year, the present Light-house was erected, the old one having fallen down. In 1835, the population of the place was said to amount to 5,500, a computation which probably included transitory persons, a great many of whom were here at the time. The actual popula- tion, however, that year, could not have been much less than 3000. In 1836, another sale of Canal lots took place, which was attended with much excitement, and occasioned a large collection of people from distant quarters. The prices were extravagantly high. In 1836, a branch of the State Bank was located here. On the 4th of July, 1831, the ceremony of breaking the first ground on the Canal, took place at Canal Port, in presence of a large concourse of spec- tators. During the winter of '36-7, the act to incorporate the City, passed the State Legislature ; and in April succeeding, the first elec- tion under the Charter was held, which resulted in the choice of W. B. OGDEN to the office of Mayor. 'The growth of commerce, thus far, kept pace with everything else. The community were dependent, during the first few years, entirely upon supplies from abroad; this, together with the great influx of emigration, and the travel which began to set in this direction, gave employment to a considerable amount of shipping, and Steamboats and Schooners began to ply regularly between this port and Buffalo.


During this brief but exciting period, the community fortunately found time to devote some attention to things of greater importance than the accumulation of this world's goods. Before or during 1836, as many as six Churches had been organized, and suitable buildings provided for their accommodation. These Churches, together with such as have since been established, have always received a liberal support, and are now in a flourishing condition. Neither was the subject of education wholly neglected. The school section, which fortunately lay contiguous to the City, and was pro- portionably valuable, was disposed of in 1834, and the avails applied to the support of Common Schools. Means for the diffusion of general intelligence were also provided.


In 1834, John Calhoun commenced the publication of the Cbi- cago Democrat; and in the following year, Thos. O. Davis esta- blished the Chicago American, both of which papers still exist ; the


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DESCRIPTION AND


latter under the name of the Chicago Express, being published daily. 'These papers, together with the Prairie Farmer, Agricultu- ral; the Western Citizen, Abolition; the North-Western Baptist, Baptist ; and the Better Covenant, Universalist, which 'have since been started, are ably conducted, and have an extensive circulation.


The year 1837, is especially memorable in the annals of Chicago, as the period of protested notes. It was during this year, that the consequences of speculation, which had hitherto operated most favorably for the West, were experienced to a most ruinous extent. Chicago was intimately connected with speculation, through all its progress. It was in its incipient stages, at the period of the com- mencement of the City ; but a disposition and tendency to it was apparent even then. It raged with great violence during '35-6, and a portion of '37, at which time it gave color and direction to most business transactions.


The history of this singular delusion is replete with instructive incidents. It seems unaccountable to the more sober judgment of these times, how men, under any circumstances, could have been led so far astray-how prudence, foresight, and sagacity could. to such an extent, lrave lost their dominion and control over the human mind. But so it was. The rapid and unprecedented rise in the value of real estate, and the certainty of that rise, exerted a most seductive influence ; very few were found able to resist the tempta- tion ; all classes of people ultimately abandoning the usual avoca- tions of society, devoted themselves exclusively to speculation, and hazarded their all upon this sea of chance. This wild spirit found its way ultimately into the' halls of legislation, and controlled the conduct and policy of states, as it had done that of individuals. It was under the influence of this spirit that those stupendous schemes of internal improvement originated in many of the new states, which have entailed upon subsequent times the evils of debt -taxation-and in some cases, national disgrace and dishonor .- Speculation led, in short, to the perpetration, on all hands, of acts of folly and absurdity, seldom before beard of. The sources of wealth being regarded as inexhaustible, naturally created extrava- gant ideas of prosperity, and afforded to all the apparent means of indulging in every species of expenditure. It would be useless to follow speculation through its stages, as one act of absurdity suc- ceeded another in rapid succession .- Are not these times and their consequences written in effaceless characters upon the memory of every reader ?


But the day of wrath and retribution was at hand. Confidence and credit, too long abused, refused any longer to lend their aid. The unfortunate victims of the delusion were suddenly awakened from their dream of wealth to the certainty of almost universal bank- ruptcy and ruin: Thousands suddenly called upon to investigate the condition of their affairs, which, in the excitement of the mo- ment, no one thought it necessary to attend to, found themselves involved to the extent of thousands and hundreds of thousands of dollars, and their real estate, from which alone the means of pay- ment could come, depreciated in value, in fact unsaleable at any price. Thousands, from affluence, were reduced-without warning or preparation-to poverty ; some struggled for a time with their destiny, but the evil day came at last ; and scarcely one, ultimately,


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HISTORICAL SKETCH.


survived the catastrophe. The comparatively sinall number of those who did finally escape the ordeal, it has been observed were indebted more to chance and good luck than to any unusual endow- ment of prudence and sagacity. The ablest business men of the age-those in whose judgment and capacity in ordinary times we should unhesitatingly repose the most implicit confidence, ventured as far and hazarded as much as any in this dangerous game.




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