Indianapolis, Indiana city directory, 1891, Part 131

Author:
Publication date: 1855
Publisher: Polk
Number of Pages: 892


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MOUNT SHASTA


Standing nearly fifteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, we may see a won- derful country, covering a circle with a radius of hundreds of miles, and embracing many noted peaks, glistening lakes, long ranges of snow-capped mountains, and the far-off lava beds of the Modoc country. Every mile of this mountain trip from Roseburg in Oregon to Redding in California reveals extraordinary beauties unequaled by those of any other mountain range in the world; for here, instead of bleakness and desolation, are seen pictures which have received the kindliest, noblest, grandest and most refreshing touches of Nature's prolific brush, from the delicate beauty of wild flowers to the snow-covered summit of Shasta. The Alpine Club of Portland has accomplished much in bringing to public notice the entrancing beauties of the mountain lakes, peaks and gorges of the Cascade and Siskiyou ranges.


The Strawberry Valley is the best point from which the McCloud River may be reached. This beautiful stream rises in the eastern flank of Mt. Shasta and flows southward, its waters finally reaching the Sacramento. It is on the McCloud River that probably the finest fishing and hunting in the West may be found. The river is and likely will forever remain a wild and uninhabited stream. As a consequence there is nothing except hunting and fishing parties to drive out the game and des- troy the fish,-an extremely difficult task. The scenery is beautiful, and Mr. Sisson of Sisson has established a camp on the river for the accommodation of visitors. For those who enjoy an outing of this character, the McCloud River is an earthly paradise.


The mountains of the north abound in so many charms that it is difficult to make a selection for enumeration. The town of Sisson itself is one of the most popular


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


summer resorts in the mountains; and it is from this place that the grandest full- faced view of Shasta may be had. The elevation of the town is 3,555 feet ; and the air is remarkably pure and healthful. "Sisson's Tavern" is a charming hotel, where .every comfort is furnished. Another place of great interest is the Soda Spring near Dunsmuir. The fine, pure, sparkling soda water has been brought in pipes from Shasta Soda Springs to a pagoda alongside the railroad. The Sacramento River, here a noisy, turbulent stream, flows past; and on the opposite bank are the famous Mossbrae Falls. There bold streams of water in great number and force burst from the rocks and rush down to the river in noisy cascades, scattering rainbow jewels with a lavish hand.


Dropping down from the mountains and following the Sacramento River from its source in a flank of Mt. Shasta to its mouth in the Bay of San Francisco, we pass some beautiful and romantic spots. Lassen's Peak overtops its giant companions in the Sierra to the east; and at its base are a number of remarkable geysers, from which, with great roars, issue volumes of boiling water and mud, and where great pools of hot water abound, all pointing to the volcanic history of the great butte.


THE SIERRA LAKES.


At Sacra- sound central floral in Winter mento, we may turn eastward and visit the fa- mous lakes in the Sierra near to the Central Pa- cific R. R. Lake Tahoe is a resort to which thou- sands flock every sum- mer. It is a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, twenty- five miles in length and from twelve to fourteen miles wide. It abounds with trout, and on its shores are some attractive hotels. The mountain scenery here is superb, and the summer sunsets of sur- passing beauty. Excursion steamers and 'sail and row boats are abundant ; and every possible luxury is provided. Webber Lake, another of these remark- able inland seas, all of which are be- tween six thousand and seven thousand feet above the sea level, is not far away ; and here there are good accommodations, and probably the best hunting and fish- ing in the world. Independence Lake is another of this group of mountain won- ders, with its attractive hotel and its superb fishing and charming mountain scenery. Still another of these Sierra


lakes, one of the smallest but the most famous, is Donner Lake. It is only three miles from Truckee, which is the town at which visitors to all these lakes leave the railroad. It received its name from George Donner, who, with a party of emigrants, was snow- bound at this lake in the winter of 1846. The most incredible sufferings were endured, and some of the party died from starvation. On all sides are towering snow-capped mountains, and the scenery is grand and imposing. It is famous for its trout fishing, and is one of the prettiest resorts in the Sierra. Returning we leave the railroad at Auburn and visit the won- derful Ala- baster Cave eight miles southeast of Auburn. It has large rooms and lofty arch- es, glitter- ing stalac- tites and pure water.


GEMS OF THE SIERRAS


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


WONDERFUL SPRINGS.


ROM these lakes we may return through Sacramento, and, passing through Napa and Calistoga, visit the Napa Soda Springs, the White Sulphur Springs, the Geysers and Clear Lake. These popular resorts are near together; and their great beauty and close proximity to San Francisco cause them to be thronged with visitors every summer. At the Napa Soda Springs there are elegant buildings for the accommodation of visitors. The springs are situated in a valley surrounded by lofty verdure-clad mountains, which lack the bold and rugged aspect of the Sierra. At the feet of the mountains lie the splendid orch- ards and vineyards which have made


the Napa Valley famous. It would be difficult to find anywhere else in the world so excellent health-giving waters set in the midst of scenery so beautiful. These springs are also a winter resort of THE GEYSERS great prominence, and are one of the objective points in the itinerary of Raymond and Whitcomb's winter excursions of Eastern people to California.


The White Sulphur Springs, on the same line of travel, near St. Helena, still retain all the popularity which in early days made them the principal resort for the fashionable people of San Francisco. This is one of the most delightful resorts in the State; and the new management, which has recently taken charge, may be depended upon to furnish the best accommodations. The natural attractions are unusually strong. Ætna Springs, sixteen miles from St. Helena by stage, are also very popular. Here are natural hot and cold waters for bathing and drinking pur- poses. The Calistoga Springs, at the town of Calistoga, show the general character- istics of the Soda Springs of Napa county, and possess rare healing virtues. Perched high in the mountains above Calistoga are the Harbin Springs. There are springs here of varying temperatures, one showing 118 degrees. There are many other hot and cold springs in this vicinity, including Adam's Spring, five miles from Glen- brook; Siegler Springs, two miles from Adams; Bonanza Springs, two miles from Siegler ; Howard Springs, fourteen in number, two miles from Siegler, and 2,220 feet above the level of the sea; Anderson Springs, ten miles from the Great Geysers ; Pearson Springs, fourteen miles from Lakeport; Witter Springs, one mile east of Pearson; Hot Borate Springs, near Lakeport; Highland Springs, four miles from


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


Kelseyville, famous for their douche bath ; Cook's Springs, in Indian Valley, Colusa county, yielding hot sulphur and other mineral waters; Hough's Spring, in Lake county, thirty-two miles from Williams ; Allen Springs, in Lake county, twenty-eight miles by stage from Sites, on the Colusa and Lake Railroad ; Bartlett Springs, in Lake county, thirty-one miles by stage from Sites, and one of the most popular resorts in the State. The easier accessibility of Bartlett Springs within the last few years has served to increase the number, already large, of visitors who annually seek health and pleasure there. The water is cold (though heated- for bathing purposes), con- tains soda, borax and iron, is heavily charged with carbonic acid gas, is cathartic, diuretic and alterative, and has a pleasant taste. A good hotel, a large number of cottages and excellent management assure the comforts of visitors.


The center of this remarkable region of volcanic springs is found in the cañon of the Little Pluton River, far up in the mountains in Sonoma county, 1,700 feet above the level of the sea, and distant one hundred miles from San Francisco. The rail- road which passes Napa terminates at Calistoga, and thence a stage line runs to the Geysers, the most remarkable boiling springs of the world, apart from those in the Yellowstone Park and Iceland. The trip to the Geysers, both by rail and stage, presents a series of panoramic views of unparalleled splendor. Apart from Yosemite and the Hotel del Monte, in their way the two noblest attractions in California, the Geysers exercise a peculiar and absorbing fascination. In the Little Pluton cañon, embowered in a sylvan scene of singular beauty and repose, with the added massive- ness of rounded mountain tops on either hand, there are one hundred springs of all sizes issuing from the fiercely hot interior of the earth. Surely the distance here from the surface of the earth to those terrific internal fires which formerly found vent in the great volcano now called Mt. Shasta cannot be great. This awe-inspiring phenome- non is now all that is left in activity of the violent volcanic disturbances which in the ages gone lifted California from the bottom of the Pacific. The waters range in character from that which is pure and cold to boiling caldrons of a black, thick liquid. There are cold soda springs and boiling alum and sulphur springs. Heavy deposits of sulphur, salts, ammonia, tartaric acid, magnesia, etc., cover the ground in places. There are intermittent boiling springs, from which jets of water and volumes of roaring steam issue at short intervals. The "Steamboat Geyser" is the most impressive of all, with its great body of steam thrown up under tremendous pressure, and with a heavy roar. There are hot and cold medicated baths, where remarkable cures have been effected. From innumerable fissures in the ground come jets of steam. The " Witches' Caldron" is over seven feet in diameter, and its depth has never been sounded.


The fourth leading place of resort in this part of the State is Clear Lake, about thirty-five miles north of Calistoga. The scenery which surrounds this beautiful sheet of water, compared with that of Lake Tahoe and its neighbors, presents all the striking differences between the Coast Range and the Sierra. At Clear Lake we tind, instead of granite, snow-covered earth-giants arranged in wild and majestic disorder, finely rounded mountains and hills decked with verdure, and innumerable shady ravines and enticing nooks. The shore is singularly beautiful and gives an impression of infinite repose. The lake is between twenty-five and thirty miles in length, from ten to twelve miles in width, and thirteen hundred feet above the sea. Many pretty islands dot its surface, and charming towns line its shores. Among the latter are Lakeport, the county seat of Lake county, a town of great beauty. The big mountain Konockti bathes its feet in the waters. The Sulphur Banks, at the lower end of Clear Lake, and easily accessible from Lower Lake, afford one of the most interesting spectacles to be found in the State. Through a mass of porous earth hot sulphurous vapors continually force their way, depositing beautiful but fragile sul- phur crystals on the surface. This curiosity is well worthy of a visit.


This account of the wonders of Lake county will close with a mention of the Blue Lakes, three in number, two thousand five hundred feet above the sea, twelve miles from Lakeport. There is much ruggedness of scenery, alternating with quiet wood pictures of exceeding beauty.


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.


AN FRANCISCO itself'is a suburb winter resort for residents of the Eastern cities ; but as it has a fixed population of three hundred and fifty thousand, it, unfortunately, under the common interpretation of the term "resort," cannot be so classed. Evidence, however, of the great charm of its climate in winter is found in the fact that during those months which in the East are appropriately called "winter," San Francisco is always crowded with visitors. Apart from the strong and generally unique character of its attrac- tions as a city,-such as its wonderful system of cable roads, its lofty hills, whose slopes and summits are lined with attractive homes, the close neighborhood of the two charming cities, Oakland and Alameda, and the near popular resorts, Sausalito and San Rafael, its beautiful land-locked harbor, its splendid park, with flowers in bloom throughout the year,-it has such attraction as an almost


inbroken succession of bright days, a fine bracing air, a complete exemp- tion from epidemic and endemic dis- eases, and an energetic, virile population, whose zest- ful pursuit of pleasure is a natural consequence of its prosperity and health. The superb hotels and VICINITY OF CLIFF HOUSE theatres of San Francisco are a marvel to the world ; 'and within a radius of a few miles from its borders are many of the most noted health and fashion resorts on the continent. One of the chief attractions in the immediate neighborhood of San Francisco is Mount Diablo, a noble peak which rises from the Coast Range, east of San Francisco, and about thirty miles distant in an air line. A delightful trip is to leave San Francisco in the morning, quit the railroad at Martinez, take a team for the mountain, make the ascent (an easily accomplished task, as the road runs to the summit), and return to the city in the evening. The view from the summit is indescribably beautiful. San Francisco, Oakland, Alameda, and dozens of other towns and cities, nestle closely on the ground far below; and San José is visible in the distance. Far to the north and west are seen the snow-crowned summits of the Sierra, with grand old Shasta overtopping them all. Directly east of Mt. Diablo are the Byron Springs, noted for the medicinal virtues of their hot and cold sulphur, soda, iron and magnesia springs. They have also a natural hot mud bath, which has cured many a sufferer from rheumatic and other afflictions. Commodious bath- houses and good hotel accommodations are provided; and they are open the year round. We leave the Southern Pacific train at Byron station, some distance beyond Martinez, and take the stage thence two miles to the springs.


The Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Company is peculiarlv favored, as it is the highway to some famous pleasure resorts. It runs south from San Francisco to


CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


7


San Luis Obispo county, with short branches to Santa Cruz, the Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Pacific Grove and other resorts. Just south of San Francisco, it passes through a number of beautiful towns that are particularly noted for being the country homes of San Francisco millionaires, including San Mateo, Belmont and Menlo Park. Through the forests of oak we catch a glimpse of the Stanford Junior University ; and there are many vineyards and orchards. Fifty miles from San Francisco is the charming city of San José, with its superb hotel and its numerous places of resort near by, including the Alum Rock Sulphur Springs and baths, in a pretty cañon, seven miles from San José. The road to the springs is finely macadamized, and is the fashionable drive of the city. It is at San José that we leave the railroad to visit the Lick Observatory, on Mt. Hamilton, twenty-six miles away. Hundreds of people throng to the Observatory every Saturday, on which day visitors are per- mitted to look through the greatest telescope in the world; and the use of the various instruments is explained by the courteous astronomers.


BYRON HOT SPRINGS


PSCHULTZE


THE SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS.


N the Santa Cruz Mountains we find some remarkably enticing scenery. It is the famed "Shasta Route" on a small scale, lacking the superb grandeur of that scenery, but giving in its place some of the daintiest expressions of beauty that nature ever yields to her eager worshipers. The San Lorenzo River, shaded by great redwood trees, winds along now peacefully, and then in turbulent disorder; and near it are the Big Trees. The more famous groves of the sequoia gigantea are those of Calaveras and Mariposa ; and next to these come the Big Trees of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The spot in which they stand is surpass- ingly beautiful. One of these giants is shown, in the hollow trunk of which lived a large family in early days. Fremont's cabin is near. These are favorite picnic grounds; and the trains always stop here for a considerable length of time. Throughout the whole of this mountain trip there are romantic spots which invite to rest. Beautiful streams of the purest water abound; and the waters are favorite resorts for the most expert fishermen of the State. Thousands of those whom an active city life has prepared to enjoy the luxuries which these mountains afford flock hither every summer, and hundreds of tents dot the mountain slopes and shady ravines. In these mountains is the world's greatest quicksilver mine, at New Almaden, easily reached by rail.


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


MONTEREY AND ITS VICINITY.


ONTEREY, a mile distant from the Hotel del Monte, although not strictly a resort, is so charming and interesting that we cannot afford to pass it unnoticed. It is the oldest town in the State, and many of its ancient adobe houses, built more than a century ago, are still standing, some in fine preservation and others in picturesque ruins.


Pacific Grove, three miles beyond Monterey, is a famous resort, particularly in door and delight- fulentertainment -or cottages may be had. summer. It nestles cosily in a great pine grove, is built on ground which rises gently from the bay to the sum- mit of the pen- insula, and is the ideal resting People of the more cultured sort, apart from those who pursue the lighter forms of fashionable pleasure, come hither by thou- sands; it is the resting - place of artists, teachers, musicians, liter- ary people and brain-workers in general. As a consequence there are held here dur- ing the summer a large number of important con- place for those who, caring no- thing for the greater elegance of the Hotel del Monte, want to dream away a month of deli- cious repose. Bathing, moss- gathering and strolling along the rocky shore are favorite pas- times. El Car- melo, the mod- est sister of the Hotel del Mon- te, has an open SCENES AT MONTEREY ventions, such as the Chautauqua Assembly and others. A superb assembly hall is provided for this purpose.


One of the most interesting of the attractions hereabout is the famous Eighteen- mile Drive, a splendid macadamized highway, starting from the Hotel del Monte,


... ...


SANTA CRUZ


SANTA MONICA


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


passing through Monterey, crossing over the neck of the peninsula to Carmel Bay (passing the famous old Carmel Mission, not far away), and thence skirting the entire peninsula, passing, on the way, the curious gnarled cypress trees, which are peculiar to this little corner of the world ; some charming beaches, which yield mar- velous mosses and pebbles ; the seal rock, upon which thousands of seals scramble and bark; the great reservoir, which supplies Pacific Grove and the Hotel del Monte with water; Fremont's old fort, and then Monterey again.


1


While in this part of the State we may visit the Gilroy Hot Springs, reached by stage from Gilroy. This is a famous resort for invalids and pleasure-seekers. The hot mineral waters possess exceptional healing powers, and are useful both for drinking and bathing. The springs are beautifully situated in the Coast Range; and the hunting and fishing thereabout are an irresistible temptation to those who enjoy that kind of sport. The Madrone Mineral Springs, six miles north of the Gilroy Hot Springs, are also very popular. The Tassajara Springs, in Monterey county, are largely visited. Game and fish abound in all of this country bordering on the Bay of Monterey.


SANTA YSABEL


The Coast Division of the Southern Pacific continues its course southeastwardly through Monterey county, and terminates in San Luis Obispo county, traversing the rich, broad valley of the Salinas River. We shall find rare beauties all the way ; but our first objective point is the Paraiso Springs, seven miles by stage from Soledad. These yield hot soda and sulphur waters, and are very popular. Pursuing the jour- ney on the Coast Division, we arrive at the Paso de Robles Hot and Cold Sulphur Springs, in the northern extremity of San Luis Obispo county. Thousands of remarkable cures have been effected by the use of the waters which these noble springs yield. Not far from Paso Robles are the curious Santa Ysabel Springs, which lately have come into prominence. They yield hot sulphur water. In pre- historic times this must have been a great health resort, as the ruins of ancient dams are visible. Within the last few years the place has been improved with gar- dens and drives, and by the construction of an artificial lake of the warm spring water, where the visitor can indulge in a most enervating swim.


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS,


YOSEMITE AND THE BIG TREES.


F course the crowning glory of California's natural attractions is the Yo- semite Valley ; and no real visit to the State can be made without seeing this marvelous creation. As no other natural wonder in the world has been so often and ably described as this, we shall do hardly more than mention it. To reach it, we cross the bay from San Francisco to Oak- land, and there take the Southern Pacific Company's train by way of Martinez and Lathrop. Here we enter the great San Joaquin Valley, the southern end


Liberty Plg.


THE YOSEMITE VALLEY


of the vast interior basin of which the Sacramento Valley is the northern end. On the right, toward the west, lies the Coast Range, low and dark, and on the east the towering Sierra Nevadas, whose giant peaks are forever covered with snow. It is into the heart of these snow-clad summits (though below the line of perpetual snow) that we must penetrate to find the Yosemite Valley. We leave the main line at Berenda, one hundred and seventy-eight miles from San Francisco, and take a branch railroad. called the Yosemite Division, which runs eastwardly into the Sierra foothills to Raymond, twenty-one miles from Berenda. Here we take the stage for the Mariposa Big Trees and Yosemite. The ride is superb ; for as the road, with thousands of turnings and twistings, rapidly climbs the Sierra, it brings into view a series of scenic wonders and beauties which only these extraor- dinary mountains disclose.


The Mariposa Grove of Big Trees is on the way to Yosemite; and the visitor to the valley cannot afford to let these monarchs of the forest pass. The Rev. T. De Witt Talmage says of them : "Who that has seen them can think of them with- out having his blood tingle? Trees are now standing there that were old when Christ lived. These monarchs of foliage reigned before Cæsar or Alexander; and the next thousand years will not shatter their scepter. They are the masts of the continent; their canvas spreads on the winds while the old ship bears on its way


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CALIFORNIA: ITS WONDERS AND RESORTS.


through the ages. Their size, of which travelers speak, does not affect me so much as their longevity. Though so old now, the branches of some of them will crackle in the last conflagration of the planet."


We find ourselves at last on Inspiration Point, gazing down upon the incredible wonders of the Yosemite Valley,-a long, irregular chasm in the heart of the mount- ains. Stupendous walls of granite in grotesque and suggestive forms inclose the valley; and far down a beautiful sparkling river winds gracefully through the floor of the valley. The snows of the Sierra, slowly melting, collect into rivers, and these plunge headlong into the valley over the towering ledge of the granite wall. "That valley of the Yosemite," says Dr. Talmage, "is eight miles long, a half mile wide and three thousand feet deep. It seems as if it had been the meaning of Omnipo- tence to crowd into as small a space as possible some of the most stupendous scen- ery of the world. Some of the cliffs you do not stop to measure by feet, for they Three Broth- ers, four thou- sand feet high, Clouds' Rest, North and South Domes, and heights ne'er captured save by the bayonets of the thunder- storm. The Bridal Veil Fall, so thin that you can see the face of the mountain behind ; yon- der are Yo- semite Falls, dropping two thousand six hundred and thirty - four feet - sixteen times greater descent than that of Niag- ara. These wa- ters are dash- ed to death on the rocks, so that the white spirit of the slain waters, ascending in a robe of mist, seeks heaven. Yonder are Nevada Falls, plunging sev- en hundred feet, the water in arrows, the water in rock- ets, the water in pearls, the THE BIG TREES water in ame- are literally a mile high. Steep, so that foot of man nor beast ever scaled them, they stand in everlasting defiance. If Jehovah has a throne on earth, these are its white pillars. Stand- ing down in the immense chasm of this valley, you look up and wonder at Ca- thedral Rock, vast, gloomy minister, built for the silent worship of the mountains. Yonderis Sen- tinel Rock,- three thou- sand two hun- dred and sev- enty feet high -bold, solita- ry, standing guard among the ages, its top seldom touched, until a bride one Fourth of July mounted it and planted the national standard, and the people down in the valley looked up and saw the head of the mountain turbaned with the Stars and Stripes. Yon- der are the thysts, the water in diamonds. That cascade flings down the rocks enough jewels to array all the earth in beauty, and rushes on until it drops into a very hell of waters, the smoke of their torment ascending forever and ever."




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