A history of Meade County, Kansas, Part 1

Author: Sullivan, Frank Seymour, 1873-
Publication date: 1916
Publisher: Topeka, Kan., Crane & company
Number of Pages: 196


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A History =of= Meade County Kansas


1800


F68m


Class


Book M4859


Copyright N.º.


COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.


A History of Meade County, Kansas


By FRANK S. SULLIVAN


CRANE & COMPANY Printers, Binders, Publishers Topeka, Kansas 1916


Copyright, 1916, By FRANK S. SULLIVAN. Meade, Kansas.


SEP 13 1916


CONTENTS.


FOREWORD


ACQUISITION


GENERAL HISTORY


CITIES


26


POLITICAL . .


41 61


BANKS


NEWSPAPERS. .


CHURCHES. . .


72


PUBLIC SCHOOLS


77


FRATERNAL ORGANIZATIONS


7.8 S1


BONDED INDEBTEDNESS .


HIGHWAYS AND BRIDGES


AUTOMOBILES


89


THE COURT HOUSE


92 96


THE SALT WELL


FARM STATISTICS


103


THE OLD CALABOOSE


131


Page 7 13


BIOGRAPHICAL . 139


A History of Meade County, Kansas


FOREWORD.


I N presenting this History of Meade County to the public I am timidly conscious that it will meet the full approval of none. In the prepa- ration of this work I have talked with five hun- dred people, and received five hundred suggestions as to what the book should contain. Being anxious to please, but realizing my inability to carry out the ideas of the many well-meaning people and confine the work to one volume, I have discarded much that is interest- ing, but it has been my intention to include all that is important or valuable.


The personal experience of every old settler would be interesting reading; the achievements of those who settled upon the frontier in the days "that tried men's souls," who battled with the elements, subdued the wilderness and made the desert fruitful, is a story worthy of the mightiest pen ; the exploits of " Hoodoo" Brown, the activities of George DeCow, the eccentrici- ties of Pat Mulligan, the unconscious humor of Pete Hotz, the martial dignity of Captain Osgood, and the characteristics, freaks and foibles of many others who might be mentioned, would, if properly preserved, af- ford a source of never-ending amusement and enter- tainment ; but it would not be history.


The inside history of county polities as the game was played in former days, the plans and schemes. the plots and counter plots, the maneuvers by which tricks were


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8


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


taken and lost, would read like a story by George Ran- dolph Chester, but I could not go into these matters without violating the confidence of such eminently good fellows as Bob Painter, Doug Adams, Fred Fick. Tom Johnston, Frank Fuhr, Mose Black, Fred Judd, et al .. and the public would certainly not expect me to do that.


The history of Meade County reads almost like a fairy tale. Organized in 1885, the country was widely advertised and hailed as an El Dorado by people all over the East, who flocked here in great numbers, eager to secure homes in this modern Eden. Cities and towns sprang up as if by magic ; railroads were sur- veyed, manufacturing establishments planned for, and in a few months the country had the appearance of an old-established community. But, alas for the good of the country! so many who settled here were not the kind to develop a new country. They came mostly from the old-settled States of the East, and knew noth- ing of the hardships incident to pioneer life. They be- came dissatisfied as soon as the novelty of the situation wore away, and longed for their Eastern homes. To get away was no difficult matter; the entire country was enjoying an era of prosperity, money was easy to obtain, and many, perhaps a majority of the home- steaders preëmpted their claims, mortgaged them the next day for from $500 to $1000, and left the country, better off financially than when they came. So many farms being deserted, business suffered and laxed for a time, depression ensued, and then came the fall, the awful. calamitous. tumultuous financial crash that buried under its ruins the wrecked hopes and shattered


9


FOREWORD.


ambitions of so many. Meade County was not alone in this crisis; the entire West was affected, and great was the havoc throughout all. But business adapted itself to changed conditions; business assurance was just being restored when occurred the memorable open- ing of Oklahoma. All eyes were now turned toward "The Land of the Fair God," and western Kansas was practically forgotten by the outside world. Meade County, being in such proximity to the Territory, suf- fered her proportionate loss of citizens. Nor was the lost population soon regained, as for years practically all emigration was toward the " Red Land."


Being deserted by the farmer, the country was natur- ally given over to the cattle-men, who for years held full sway, and gathered immense wealth from their herds. The thousands of acres of rich, succulent buffalo-grass fed thousands of cattle. The usual mild winters and light snows made it practicable for cattle to graze the entire winter and come out in good condition in the spring, having consumed little or no feed save that which Nature had so bountifully provided.


But in time the glitter and glare of Oklahoma van- ished to a great extent. Land there, and elsewhere eastward, had advanced in value so that a poor man could not own his home ; landlords became so exacting that tenants could not pay rent and live ; the poor man commenced to look for a home, the man with money to look for investments. Western Kansas presented her smiling prairies to the world and attracted the at- tention of homeseekers and of investors. A few of the more venturesome came west, and those who visited Meade County viewed with wonder the rich soil, were


10


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


delighted with the climatie conditions, enjoyed the pure water, breathed the exhilarating, health-giving ozone, gazed with rapture on the transcendental beauty of the plains, and located here. They were eminently successful in tilling the soil, and accounts of their suc- cess written home caused friends to come, who in turn induced others to follow. This encroachment on the range was "viewed with alarm " by the cattle-men, who did all in their power to discourage immigration by circulating stories of the poverty of the soil, the uncer- tainty of crops by reason of insufficient rainfall, the terrors of tornadoes, and other named and nameless evils. But in spite of drouths, tornadoes, and evil re- ports, the settlers came on. The large ranches shrank away before the increasing tide of immigration, until finally "free range" was no more and the ranchman was forced to buy his range or go out of business : and finally, recognizing the futility of resistance, or realizing that they had been mistaken, the stock-men joined with the farmer in boosting the country, and they now work harmoniously together.


It is a singular fact that, in nearly every instance, the man who came to Meade County in the early days with money, lost it, while the man who came with noth- ing and was either too poor or too obstinate to leave, but remained through all the trials and vicissitudes. has amassed a competence. And it is to such men as these, such men as Farmer Bisbee, A. V. Angel, Lou Parsons, Ed Dahmer, Joe Brannon, R. T. Worman. Linn Frazier. Frank Sourbeer, and others of their ilk, that Meade County owes its present condition of de- velopment and prosperity.


11


FOREWORD.


The old order changeth. Where a few years ago could be seen, like the patriarch's herd, cattle on a thou- sand hills, now appear homes and schoolhouses and churches, and where once the seared buffalo-grass alone turned its bronzed bosom to the sky, smiling fields of waving wheat fling their banners to the heavens, and acres of verdant alfalfa greet the delighted eve, and render odorous, as with sweet incense, the surrounding air.


FRANK S. SULLIVAN.


Meade, Kansas, July. 1916.


, 1


A HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY, KANSAS.


ACQUISITION.


IN the early days of discovery, exploration and settle- ment, three European nations, England, France, and Spain, claimed the territory out of which Meade County was finally carved. Basing its claims upon the explorations of the Cabots and others, in 1606 the Eng- lish Crown granted to the London Company and to the Plymouth Company that vast area of land lying be- tween the 34th and 45th parallels of latitude and ex- tending from ocean to ocean. The English made no attempt to explore the country so far inland, and their claims upon this territory were early abandoned.


The claims of the French were more substantial. In 1673 Marquette explored a considerable portion of the Mississippi Valley : his explorations were continued and extended by LaSalle in 1682; in 1719 Dutisne explored a part of the interior, including a portion of the territory of the present State of Kansas; these explorations were continued in 1724 by DuBourgmont, who also entered and explored a part of Kansas. As a result of these various expeditions France claimed the territory which now comprises Meade County as a part of Louisiana.


The explorations of Spain were more thorough than those of France. In 1528 Narvaez explored a part of


[13]


14


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


the Mississippi Valley. These explorations were con- tinued by Cabeça de Veca, who had been an officer under Narvaez in 1734-36. De Vaca entered Kansas. passed entirely across the State from east to west, and possibly crossed Meade County. In 1541 Coronado, in his search for the fabled Quivira, crossed Meade County. possibly on his outbound trip, certainly on his return.


In 1762 France ceded Louisiana to Spain, but by the treaty of 1800 it was re-ceded to France, and by France ceded to the United States in 1803. However, the boundaries were not fully determined at that time, and in 1819 the United States ceded to Spain that part of Louisiana lying west of the 23rd meridian and south of the Arkansas river: so that what is now Meade County became an undisputed possession of Spain.


Upon Mexico gaining her independence from Spain in 1821 this territory passed from Spain to Mexico, and when in 1836 Texas acquired her independence it be- came a part of Texas. With the annexation of Texas in 1845 it became a part of the United States, but owner- ship remained in Texas until under the Omnibus Bill of 1850 it was ceded by Texas to the General Govern- ment, and became a part of Kansas under the Organic Act of 1854.


The Legislature of 1865 fixed the boundaries of Marion County to include the present territory of Meade County. In June of the same year Marion County was organized and its boundaries changed. ex- cluding this territory, which remained unorganized and unattached until. in 1873. the Legislature created Meade County, named in honor of Gen. George G. Meade, and fixed its boundaries as follows: "Com-


A VIEW OF CROOKED CREEK.


16


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


mencing at the intersection of the east line of range twenty-seven west with the north line of township twenty-nine south ; thence south along range line to its intersection with the south boundary line of the State of Kansas ; thence west along said boundary line of the State of Kansas to a point where it is intersected by the east line of range thirty-one west; thence along north range line to where it intersects the north boundary line of township twenty-nine south; thence east to the place of beginning."


In 1881 Meade County was attached to Ford County for judicial purposes, until Meade County should be organized.


In 1883 the Legislature dissolved Meade County, attaching that part lying east of the east line of range twenty-nine to Ford County, and that part lying west of the east line of range twenty-nine to Seward County.


The Legislature of 1885 again established Meade County, with slightly different boundaries, which boundaries it has ever since retained, and are as fol- lows: "Commencing at the intersection of the east line of range twenty-six west with the north line of township thirty ; thence south along range line to its intersection with the south boundary line of the State of Kansas ; thence west along said boundary line of the State of Kansas to a point where it is intersected by the east line of range thirty-one west; thence along range line to where it intersects the north boundary line of township thirty; thence east to place of be- ginning."


The same Legislature attached Meade County to C'omanche County for judicial purposes, to which


17


ACQUISITION.


county it remained attached until the formal organiza- tion of Meade County.


In 1885 a petition for organization was presented to Gov. John A. Martin. I. N. Graves was appointed census-taker. His return showed a population of 3507. of whom 1165 were householders.


Proclamation of organization was issued Nov. 4th. 1885: Meade Center was designated the temporary county seat, A. D. Me Daniel temporary County Clerk. and L. S. Sears. H. L. Mullen and E. M. Mears as the temporary Board of County Commissioners. The election to choose a permanent county seat, and perma- nent officers for the first term. was held on January 5th, 1886.


During the campaign the question of the location of the county seat overshadowed everything else. and much enmity was created, especially between the partisans of Meade Center and of Carthage. The vote, which chose Meade Center as the permanent county seat. was as follows :


Meade Center. . 486 Mertilla 3


Fowler 231 Pearlette 3


Carthage 188 Odee. 2


Byers 1


The election, which was non-partisan, resulted in choice of the following officers: Representative. R. M. Painter: County Commissioners. Chris Schmoker. Hugh L. Mullen. J. D. Wiek; County Clerk. M. B. Peed : Probate Judge, N. K. McCall: Sheriff, T. J. Mc Kibben ; Treasurer, W. F. Foster: Clerk of the District Court. W. H. Willis; Register of Deeds, C. W. Adams; County Superintendent. N. B. Clark : County Attorney. Sam Lawrence ; Surveyor, Price Moody ; Coroner. E. E. Buchecker.


GENERAL HISTORY.


Long prior to permanent settlement the territory now comprising Meade County was frequently visited by hunters, traders and adventurers. Prominent among these was Jedediah Strong Smith, a great-unele of our esteemed fellow-citizen E. D. Smith, who visited this territory as early as the year 1818. Just who the first permanent settler was, and the date of settlement, are matters of much conjecture, but it is generally conceded that the first permanent settlement was at Meade City, about twelve miles north of the present town of Meade, and was in the year 1878. In 1879 a colony consisting of sixteen families from Zanesville, Ohio, settled at Pearlette. The original Pearlette was near the site of the town afterwards surveyed and platted, but not the identical location. John Jobling was president of the company responsible for this settlement, and his son, William Jobling, still a resident of Meade County, is perhaps the "oldest citizen," considered from a standpoint of continuous residence. Andor Eliason, who resided in this county up to the time of his death about two years ago. settled in 1879, as did also Frank Sourbeer, who is at present an efficient magistrate of Meade Center Township. Perhaps the oldest unaltered building in the county is one now on the farm of Frank Marrs, built by Mr. Sourbeer.


The first newspaper published in Meade County was the Pearlette Call, the first number being issued in April, 1879, by Addison Bennett.


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VIEW OF PLAINS IN 1903.


20


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


The early settlers endured all the hardships incident to pioneer life. For years all provisions were freighted from Dodge City, then a notorious "border town."


The railroad penetrated Meade County in the year 1887. which gave business a new impetus and practically abolished the " freighter."


The early settlers were buoyant with hope, and were quick to indorse and accept any plan calculated to develop the country's resources, and for this reason were rendered an easy prey to designing schemers with "blue sky" to sell. A scheme that appealed strongly was a proposition to establish sugar mills for the manu- facture of cane sugar. Great encouragement was given these enterprises, township bonds were voted and issued in their aid, and at least two mills-one at Meade. the other at West Plains-were built. The one at Plains never attempted to operate, but the one at Meade encouraged and induced the farmers to plant large acreages of cane, and contracted for the cane at fair prices. But, unfortunately. while the cane grew and thrived, sugar could not be produced from it, or at least it could not be produced in sufficient volume, to make the enterprise a success financially, and so the sugar-mill went the usual way of wildcat schemes. Underhand methods and fraud were alleged. graft and corruption were openly charged, but it was never proved that anyone ever made any money, honestly or dis- honestly, out of the sugar-mill venture.


In the late 80's and early 90's, the country at that time being largely devoted to stock-raising. the county was sorely infested with cattle thieves more or less or- ganized. and the aggregate losses to the legitimate


21


GENERAL HISTORY.


stock-growers from these depredations were enormous. The good citizens organized to fight the evil, many prosecutions were commenced although few convictions were secured, but the activity of the organization and of the prosecuting officers eventually convinced the law-breakers that Meade County was an unprofitable locality in which to pursue their nefarious vocation : the bands were broken up, some of the members ro- formed and quit stealing cattle, and others "stole away." so that for many, many years the owner of cattle has been able to sleep in peace, secure in the knowledge that his herds were safe.


During the decade from 1890 to 1900 the selling price of real estate in Meade County was nil: there was absolutely no demand for land ; a good quarter-sec- tion of land could be bought for one hundred dollars, for fifty dollars, for twenty-five dollars, for any price one cared to offer, but there were practically no offers. The population decreased until but few more than a thousand souls found refuge within the bounds of the county. Most of the land was owned by the Govern- ment or by non-residents; few of these non-residents considered the land of sufficient value to warrant them in paying taxes, and they paid no tax. But finally the cattle industry had grown to such an extent that jealousy over the range sprang up, and in order to control certain range some enterprising stock-man would buy a quarter or two of land. Thus some slight market for real estate was created, but the price paid was usually from $50 to $100 per quarter-section. About the year 1900 a few adventurous persons, investors, "speculators" as they were called, commenced buying


22


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


land at the ridiculously low prices mentioned. Other investors followed, land gradually advanced in price to a dollar an acre, then came the real-estate agent. who assisted the speculator in disposing of his invest- ments and in boosting the price, the price advanced to a dollar and a quarter, to two dollars an acre, and then came the actual settler. The Government land was homesteaded, the land was cultivated, the results were profitable, land continued to advance, until today the price of wheat land ranges from $15 to $40 per acre. and very little unimproved land can be bought at the lower price.


On August 5th, 1887, B. F. Cox, while drilling a well on the northeast quarter of Section 5, Township 31. Range 27. struck a flow of artesian water at a depth of 142 feet. These flowing wells were not considered of much value as a commercial proposition at that time, but the land underlaid by artesian water has since at- tained a commercial value of anywhere from $50 to $150 per acre, and the beginning of the end is not yet in sight ; the possibilities of this particular portion of the county have not been appreciated. There is probably no more fertile, productive, desirable location in the whole world than the famous Artesian Valley of Meade County. Here Nature puts forth her noblest efforts to please, and the results are all that the most exacting could desire. Given the most fertile soil that Nature has provided, the most delightful climate that mankind enjoys, and Nature's most precious bestowal, pure water (more than 98 per cent pure by chemical analy- sis), cool and sparkling, boiling up from the earth's pure fountains, with a strong continual flow, no wind-


VIEW OF FOWLER IN 1903.


24


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


mills to keep in repair, no gasoline engines to maintain. no creaking windlass, no moss-grown, microbe-covered bucket, no drouth to fear, no floods to destroy,-what more could a farmer desire? No one can go through this valley, so wonderfully endowed with Nature's blessings, without a desire to call a part of it his own. The orange groves of California, the apple orchards of Oregon. the pine woods of Maine, the magnolia blos- soms of Dixie Land, may appeal to some, but give to me a spot 'neath Heaven's canopy that puts to shame the skies of Italy, where I can see the sunflowers grow- ing by the roadside, with their golden faces turned to- ward their God, and catch the fragrance of alfalfa blos- soms on every zephyr that floats o'er the Artesian Valley, and you may have all the world beside.


Deposits of iron ore and of peat have been discovered ; salt is found in more or less abundance, and was at one time manufactured by evaporation, but owing to lack of transportation facilities at that time the enterprise proved unprofitable and was abandoned. Immense deposits of silica exist, which is just commencing to be of commercial importance.


Ira MeSherry, from his farm about three miles south of Meade, is now filling a contract with James H. Rhodes & Co., Chicago, manufacturers of industrial chemicals, whereby he furnishes them a stated quan- tity of silica per year for five years. The price real- ized by Mr. MeSherry is $2 per ton, delivered at Meade.


The Cudahy Packing Co. own large deposits of this mineral, and in the year 1915 built a railroad from their mines a few miles north of Meade, connecting with the


25


GENERAL HISTORY.


C. R. I. & P. at Fowler, for the purpose of transport- ing the product of these mines.


The Puck Soap Company own silica beds just west of Meade, and other deposits are found in various parts of the county.


A great deal has been written, and more told, concern- ing the Indian fight which occurred on Sand Creek, in Meade County, but it is of little importance in history. In September and October of 1878 a band of about two hundred Northern Cheyennes left their reservation near Fort Reno and started north, crossing Meade County, and in fact crossed the entire State of Kansas. An all-day's fight took place in the southeast part of the county between these Indians and 140 soldiers, the latter being assisted by about 60 civilians, mostly cow- boys. One or two of the whites were slightly wounded. and while the damage to the Indians is not definitely known, the loss was small.


CITIES.


Soon after the settlement of the county commenced, and prior to its organization. cities and towns sprang up as if by magic, although many of them existed only on paper and in the promoter's vision. Various town- site companies were organized and incorporated. The first of these was The Meade Center Townsite Com- pany, incorporated May 25th, 1885, with E. M. Mears. C. G. Allen, Henry H. Rogers, Alex. Bailey, I. N. Graves, James A. Morris, and A. D. McDaniel, direct- ors.


The Belle Meade Town Company followed, incorpo- rating June 6th, 1885, with J. M. Brannon, Robt. P. Cooper. John Schmoker, James H. Elmore, and H. Chaney, directors.


The next to incorporate was the Spring Lake Town Company, receiving its charter July 6th, 1885. The directors of this company were D. G. Stratton, L. K. McIntyre, J. C. Marts, J. F. Shore, O. Norman, J. W. Hotz, Frank Sourbeer, Geo. W. Winder, Al Wirt, Geo. B. Allen. and N. B. Clark.


Then followed the Meade Center Town Association, incorporating July 10th, 1885, with W. P. Hackney. W. S. Mendenhall, R. L. Walker, F. E. Gillett and Ledru Guthrie as directors, none of whom were residents of Meade County.


The Meade County Town Company incorporated next, and on Aug. 22nd. 1885, with John Werth, L.


[26]


ALFALFA FIELD ON CROOKED L RANCH.


28


HISTORY OF MEADE COUNTY.


B. Ostrander, Thomas H. Campbell, John Schmoker, and John B. Innis, directors.


After this came the Atwater Townsite Company, in- corporated Oct. 18th, 1887, with James E. McCall, John J. Mohler, John I. Jones, Wm. B. Long, H. L. Markley, John E. Maxwell, and Lewis Maston, di- rectors.


The Denver, New Orleans and Rock Island Town Company, incorporated Dec. 7th, 1887, with John Werth. John W. Taylor, N. B. Potter, A. MeNulty, and T. MeNulty, directors.


The Massachusetts Town Site Company, incorpo- rated Jan. 6th, 1888, with Frank R. Gammon, B. B. Brown, Willis G. Emerson, Geo. L. Stevens, and Hugo Lundborg, directors.


The Title Land and Town Lot Company, incorpo- rated Jan. 30th, 1888, with A. H. Heber, Willis G. Emerson, Geo. L. Stevens, Edward Doll, B. B. Brown, D. W. Higbee, and Selah A. Hull, directors.


First Oklahoma Town Company was incorporated April 13th, 1889, with A. H. Heber, W. F. Schell, M. W. Sutton, Willis G. Emerson, G. W. McMillen, L. E. Steele, Geo. Theis, Jr., H. B. Stone, and E. M. Mears, directors.




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