USA > Kansas > A standard history of Kansas and Kansans, Volume I > Part 19
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96
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
142
51
605
22
10
30
153
01
594
72
5
27
158
28
589
45
1
159
28
588
45
1
78
161
26
586
47
1
02
162
28
585
15
72
163
32
584
53
168
32
579
41
7
74
176
26
571
47
3
72
180
18
567
55
7
18
187
18
560
55
no doubt good water-mill seats may be found on this fork of the Neozho and its numerous small branches that water this beautiful traet of country.
Council fork of Neozho [Neosho river], here 50 links wide and runs . boldly southward. Ford good.
Small ereek [branch of Elm creek], 15 links wide, runs southward; no timber.
Diamond of the Plains [Diamond Springs, four miles north of Dia- mond Springs station. on A. T. & S. F. railway], a remarkably fine large fountain spring, near which is good camping ground. Otter creek [Diamond ereek] is 3 ehains west of this spring. and affords wood for fuel. It is 15 links wide and runs sonthward.
First timbered creek [Mile-and-a-half ereek], 10 links wide, runs south 'd. Some timber, but little water.
Second timbered creek [Three-mile creek], like the first.
Third timbered creek [Six-mile creek], like the first.
Fourth timbered creek [ Camp creek], like the first.
Cottonwood ereek [ Clear creek], 10 links wide, runs southwest. A very few cottonwood trees are on this creek. and water not very good or plenty.
Duck creek [east branch of Muddy or Imita creek ; this point is about three miles south of Lost Springs, and a noted stopping place on the trail], 20 links wide and runs southwest. Plenty of water and pretty good grass, but no wood near.
High Bank creek [west branch of Muddy or Luta creek]. 20 links wide, runs southward. Has no tim- ber, and the banks being high makes it rather bad to eross. Plenty of water and tolerable grass.
Cottonwood fork of Neozho [ Cotton- wood river near Durham1. 50 links wide and in plaees 100 links: 'tis the last water of the Neozho which the road crosses. Here is plenty of wood. and water and the grass is tolerable. No other wood will be found on the road after this until
12
97
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
19 63
207
01
540
72
7
66
214
67
533
06
15
20
230
07
517
66
7
48
237
55
510
18
2
239
55
508
18
Vol. I-1
at the Little Arkansas, and com- monly no water before Indian ereek. About ten miles on the road, in the head of a hollow south of the road and near it, water may be had; the hollow bears southward. The road is over high level land and is suf- fieiently beaten and plain.
Indian creek [branch of Turkey creek, McPherson county ], 10 links wide, runs southwestwardly. Af- fords good water and grass, but no fuel. From the higher parts of the prairie hereabout the sand hills ap- pear west of Little Arkansas. Sora Kansas ereek, 10 links, bears south- ward. About three miles south of the ford is a grove of timber on this creek, and at the upper timber it may be erossed, but generally the erossing south of the road would be bad. At this grove the eommis- sioners met the Kansas chiefs in council on the 16th of August, 1825. [A few miles south of McPherson. ] From the Sora Kansas creek [braneh of Turkey ereek, McPherson county] to the ford on the little Arkansas the road bears to the sonthward of the direet line to avoid (or head) a branch of the Kansas river. It is important that the ford on the Little Arkansas be found, as it is generally impassable on aeeount of high banks and un- sound bed. The ford is perhaps half a mile below the mouth of a small ereek, which runs into it on the east side.
At the crossing of the Little Arkansas [east Riee county | there is wood for fuel and the water and grass are tolerably good. Having crossed the creek, travel up a small creek of it, continuing on the south side of it. There is no timber on this creek, which is short. When at the head of it the sand hills will appear a few miles to the left.
Difficult ereek {branch of Cow ereek], 15 links, runs southward into Cold Water [Cow ereek]. There is no timber near the road on it, and the bed is rather soft and bad to cross. Timbered ereek [Jarvis creek, braneh of Cow ereck], 10 links, runs
98
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles.
Chns.
From Taos. Miles.
Chns.
7
09
246
64
501
09
15
56
262
40
485
33
01 10
272
41
475
32
south'd. It should be crossed just at the upper timber. Water and grass tolerably good.
Cold water or Cow creek [near Lyons, Rice county] is a narrow stream, from 30 to 50 links wide, for the most part miry, banks commonly high. There is tolerable crossing just above the largest body of tim- ber on it, which is very conspicu- ous: on the two branches eastward of the creek is timber. The camp- ing is good on this creek for wood, water, grass and (commonly) huf- falo.
From Cow creek the traveler should be careful not to bear too much to the left or he will get on the sands ; he may travel directly west or a little north of west, as he may choose, to fall on the Arkansas. After crossing Cow creek the beaten road, which hitherto has been plain, will probably be seen no more as a guide. The Arkansas will be the guide for about two hundred miles. In general the traveler should not keep near the river, as 'tis sandy. Near the foot of the hills the ground is firm and the traveling better. Where it is necessary to turn in to the river to camp 'tis commonly best to turn in short or at right angles, and fuel may be picked up almost anywhere, and the grass is commonly pretty good. Generally the river is a quarter of a mile broad, and may be crossed on horse- back almost anywhere if the banks permit, and they are generally low. The water is pleasant in this part of the river and above.
Walnut creek, from 60 to 100 links wide, runs into the Arkansas at the north bend a little above a hand- some grove of timber on the south part of the river, called "Pit Grove." The crossing of the creek is directly between the bends of the river next below and next above the creek. The ford is good. On this creek is more timber than on any from Council Grove, principally low, crooked ash and elm. When in season, plenty of plums are to be had here. and the camping is
25
24
99
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
297
65
450
08
4
61
302
46
445
27
10
77
313
43
434
30
41
19
354
62
393
11
very good for water, fuel and grass. The latitude of this place is 38° 21' 10". The road may continue straight by Rock Point [Pawnee Rock ], as dotted, to the crossing of the creek above it.
Crooked creek [ Ash creek], 50 links wide, bears southeast and affords plenty of excellent wood and grass, but the water is not very good. Its bed is shaded with ash and elm. It may be crossed in many places; in the fall it is nearly dry.
Pawnee ereek [Pawnee river], 100 links wide, runs nearly east. Ford tolerably good; west bank a little soft. The ford is at the south point of a sort of bluff. The camping is good for grass and water and toler- able for fuel. The ereek is shaded with elm and ash. From this point some travelers prefer to continue up on the south side of this ereek for some distance, then crossing it several times, continue westward, passing [ from] the headwaters over to the Arkansas, as being nearer than the river, but the river route is more safe and convenient for man and beast.
Mouth of Clear creek [Big Coon creek], a small stream of trans- parent running water. Its course is from its head, nearly parallel with the river and near it, in what may perhaps be called the river hot- tom. On the south side of the river among the sand hills, which border it opposite the head of Clear ereck [ Big Coon ercek], elk are to be found and a few deer, and, when in season, plums and grapes.
South Bend of the Arkansas river. Here is the first roek bluff seen on the river. The latitude of this place is 37° 38' 52". It would be much nearer to cross the river here and ascend Mulberry creek to its source and then go directly to the lower spring | Wagon Bed Spring, near Zionville, Grant county! on the Semaron [ Cimarron] ; but on trial of the way travelers have dis- eontinned it as unsafe. It is in- commodious of water and timber for fuel, and wants such prominent
100
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
33
22
388
04
359
69
39
35
427
39
320
34
land marks as will be a sure guide. On this route has been much suf- fering; in a dry time 'tis danger- ous. Some turn off at a place known to the Santa Fe travelers by the name of the "Cashes" near to which is a rocky point of a hill at some distance from the river, composed of cemented pebbles, and therefore called Gravel Rocks. At about 3 miles southwest from this rock is a place of crossing for those who travel the lower route, or directly to the aforenamed Semaron Spring, but this (though in a less degree) is subject to the same objections as that directly from the south bend. The road this way is good, and in the spring and early summer, to those who may be acquainted with it or may have a compass to direct them, it is abont 30 miles nigher than the upper ronte. The direct course from this point to the spring is S. 71344, W. 71 miles [about 72 miles south- west ]. But the upper route is more safe for herding stock and more commodious to the traveler, as he will always be sure of wood and water on the river and a sure guide, and in general it is easier to kill buffalo for provision.
The Mexican boundary of 100th de- gree of longitude west from Green- wich is where a few cottonwood trees stand on the north side of the river, about 11% miles above a tim- bered bottom on the same side. At this timbered bottom is very good camping for grass and fuel. [This is about 15 miles east of where the 100th meridian is now on maps. ]
Crossing of the Arkansas [about 6 miles above the present Garden City and 20 miles east of Chouteau Island], just below the bend of the river at the lower end of a small island, with a few trees. At this place there are no banks on either side to hinder waggons. The cross- ing is very oblique, landing on the south side a quarter of a mile above the entrance on this side. The river is here very shallow, not more than knee deep in a low stage of the
20
101
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
447 39 300 34
water. The bed of the river is al- together sand, and it is unsafe to stand long on one place with a waggon, or it may sink into the sand. After passing a few wet places, just beyond the river, the road is again very good up to Chouteau's Island. Keep out from the river or there will be sand to pass.
At Chouteau's Island [near Hartland, Kearny county ], the road leaves the river altogether. Many things unite to mark this place so strongly that the traveler will not mistake it. It is the largest island of tim- ber on the river. and on the south side of the river at the lower end of the island is a thicket of willows with some cottonwood trees. On the north side of the river the hills approach tolerably nigh and on [one] of them is a sort of mound, conspicuous at some miles distance, and a little eastward of it in a bot- tom is some timber, perhaps a quar- ter of a mile from the river. The course of the river likewise being more south identify the place.
On the river through all the space traveled there is great similarity of features; the hills are commonly very low and the ascent almost everywhere so gentle that waggons may go up them. They are covered with very short grass, and the prickly pear abounds. The soil on the hills is not very good. The bottoms on the river are sometimes good, but frequently not so. They are sometimes a mile or more in width, frequently rising so gently it would be difficult to designate the foot of the hill. It is generally sandy near the river, and the grass coarse and high, consequently the traveling is bad near the river, but a little off it is almost everywhere good. On Cow creek or Cold Water short grass, commenees, and the short grass bounds the burnings of the prairie. This ereek is almost as nigh home as buffalo are found, and from this ereek they may be had at almost any place until within sight of the mountains near Santa Fe.
Before leaving the river, where
102
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
fuel is plenty, the traveler will do well to prepare food for the next hundred miles, as he will find no timber on the road in that distance, except at one place, which will not probably be one of his stages; at least he should prepare bread. In dry weather buffalo dung will make tolerable fuel to boil a kettle, but it is not good for bread baking, and that is the only fuel he will have.
After leaving the river the road leads southward, leaving the two cottonwood trees on the right, which stand perhaps a mile from the river. From the brow of the hill, which is low, and is the border of the sand hills, the road leads a little east of south to a place which sometimes [is] a very large pond, and con- tinues along the western margin. and after passing some trees stand- ing at the south end, reaches a very slight valley, through which in wet weather flows a small creek. coming from the plains beyond the sand hills. From this place the traveler will see some trees in a southwest direction, which he will leave on his right, and will continne along the valley in the bed of the creek (which he can hardly recognize as such) very nearly due south for about four miles to the southern edge of the sand hills, where gen- erally he will find a large pond of water in the bed of the small creek, which is now more apparent. But this pond is sometimes dry; due south from it for about two miles distant are several ponds of stand- ing water, where the grass is fine and abundant. The distance through the sand hills here is about five miles, and the road not bad. These hills are from thirty to fifty feet high and generally covered with grass and herbage. From this place a due south course will strike the lower spring [Wagon Bed spring, near Zionville, Grant countyl on the Semaron creek, and as that creek then is the guide for ahont eighty miles, and waggons can in one day drive across the level, firm plain from the ponds to the
KANSAS AND KANSANS
103
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
32
50
480
09 267
64
38
63
spring, the road was so laid out. There is another advantage, name- ly, the certainty of traveling due south and north from the pass of the sand hills to the spring, and vice versa, is much greater than if the course were oblique to the cardinal points, and at any rate there is but little loss of distance, for the ereek bears so mueh from the southward that the diagonal or long side is almost equal to the two shorter sides of the very obtuse angle that would be made by strik- ing the ereek higher up. The road erosses Half Way ereek [North Cimarron river, near Ulysses, Grant eounty] at somewhat more than ten miles north of the spring, at which place are water and grass. The ereek is about 50 links wide and bears southeast, and may be easily crossed.
Lower Semaron Spring [Wagon Bed spring, Grant eounty ] is at the west edge of a marsh green with bull- rushes. The marsh is north of the creek and near it. The spring is constant, but the creek is some- times dry until you ascend it ten or twelve miles, where it will be found running. The stream is bolder and the water better as one travels np it. It is the guide to the traveler until he reaches the upper spring near eighty miles. Three miles above the lower spring is some timber, from which place the road is on the hill north of the creek for twelve or fifteen miles. One may then either continue on the hills north of the ereek or travel in the bottom, but the hills are hest for ten or fifteen miles further, as the valley of the creek is sandy in many places. One must necessarily camp on the creek to have water, but the water is very bad until one travels a great way up it, as it is impregnated [with] saline matter. which, like fine powder, makes white a great part of the valley. The grass in this valley is not so good as that on the Arkansas. the land not being so good either in the val ley or on the hills.
104
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage.
From Taos. Miles.
Chns.
Miles. Chns.
518 72
229
01
31
549
72
198
01
6
54
556
46
191
27
11
08
567
54 180
19
Middle Spring, near half a mile from the creek, on the north of it, near a mile below a sort of rock bluff at the point of a hill. [This place is in southwest Morton county, about 7 miles north and 6 miles east of the southwest corner of Kansas. The rock bluff is the "Point of Rocks" on southeast 14, 12-34-43, as noted on maps of later date; the old "Point of Rocks" is about 130 miles further on in New Mexico.] Above this middle spring the road is in the creek bottom, which in places is very sandy. One must pick the firmest ground, and for this pur- pose must cross the creek occa- sionally, which may be done almost anywhere, as the banks are com- monly low and the bed sandy.
Timber on the Semaron at this place, which is the first timber on the creek above the few trees near the lower spring. The road leaves the creek and continues in a southwest- wardly direction to a patch of tim- ber, which may be seen from the hill (near this timber) on the southi of the creek. At the patch of tim- ber is a spring, called the upper Semaron Spring, and around it are some mounds of eoggy rock several hundred feet high.
Upper Spring. At this place is wood and water, but not much grass for stock. In season there are plenty of grapes. From this point the road passes by a spur of a hill southwest about a mile from the spring. From this hill will be seen two small mountains very near to- gether, called "Rabbit's Ears," bearing about 60 degrees west of south. Those points guide the traveler, but he will at first bear a little to the right of the direct course that he may avoid some points of hills, and will fall on a small creek, and will find it best to eross it and continue up it on the west side a mile or two and then recross it, keeping pretty well the general direction.
Mire Spring at this place is no dis- tinet spring, but a miry place where water ean be had, but no wood :
105
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
18
56
586
30
161 43
19
07
605
37 142
36
15
grass is only tolerable. From this plaee, after eontinning in the gen- eral direction to the Rabbit's Ears some five or six miles, "Pilot Mountain" will appear a little more to the west. The road leads by the foot of it, keeping pretty well the general direction to it.
Lonse creek, say 30 links wide, and bears southeast. The best eamping ground is at a pond of water in the bed of this creek, which does not generally run, about half a mile below one or two trees standing on the creek. Commonly a little fuel of drift wood may be picked up, as there is some timber up the creek, though none ahont the camping ground. The water and grass are good.
From this to Turkey creek and thence to the Rabbit's Ears creek the rontes are various, agreeably to the traveler's notions. There is some sand (I may say sand hills) to pass from this to Turkey creek. The road as here laid down con- tinnes up a small fork of Lonse creek, on the south side of it, which runs into the creek a mile or more perhaps above the camp, and from the head of this fork pass us over to Turkey creek, which is near. . Perhaps a better way would be to turn up a valley nearly south, which will be seen after leaving the camp a mile or two, continue in the val- ley a mile or more, perhaps, until the general direction to Pilot Monn- tain may be resumed. The sand will then be on the right hand. The road is tolerably good.
Turkey creek. On this creek the eamping is good for wood, water and grass. The creek is 30 links and bears S. E.
Rabbit's Ears ereek. 50 links wide, raus from this place, where the traveler leaves it, nearly east. On the south of it everywhere is, at a little distance from the stream. a rocky hill several hundred feet high, from the top of which is level Jand to southward. On this creek camping is good for water, wood and grass. Here also are some
106
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles.
Chns.
620
37
127
36
7
,
627
37
120
36
14
27
641
64
106
09
7
19
649
03
98
70
1
40
650
43
97
30
13
78
664
41
83
32
6
31
deer, the first seen after passing the south bend of the Arkansas.
Pilot Mountain, on the left hand. From about this place will be seen many small mountains on the right at ten or fifteen miles distance, ex- tending to the southwest; the ex- tremity of which is called the Point . of Rocks, to which the road leads, at first bearing more southward to avoid sand.
A creek, ten links, bears south'd. On this creek a scattering bush or two appears, but no timber : water and grass are tolerable. On the west edge of a board and sometimes dry pond covered with grass and weeds, and where are some rocks above the ground, at one mile eastward of this creek, is a good spring; no drain from it except for a few feet.
Don Carolus creek, 50 links wide, bears southwest. Here is plenty of wood, water and grass, and the crossing of the creck is tolerably good.
Nooning branch. Here is generally water and grass and fuel.
Point of Rocks. At this place is a very constant and good spring. The mountains are in full view, and as no beaten road will be discovered until more traveled, the traveler will be guided by the strong fea- tures of the country, which with care on his part will conduct him safely on his journey.
From the Point of Rocks the traveler . will proceed a little south of west, as indicated by the map, leaving a higher swell of the plain or a little hill a fourth or half a mile to his left, and will proceed until at the brow of the high tableland on which he will find himself to be. Looking across the valley before him through which a small creek flows to south- west. he will see the southern point of similar highland to that on which he is, a little beyond which point is the Canadian river. The road passes as near the point on the south of it as is convenient and continues forward to the Canadian. On the creck in the valley short of the Canadian is water and grass
107
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage.
Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
670
72
77
01
8
52
679
44
68
29
28 14
693
72 54 01
plenty, but no timber. There are a few willow bushes.
Canadian river, a bold running stream from 50 to 80 links wide, bears southeast. The ford is rocky and shallow and is easy to find. If missed the traveler would not be able to cross below the fork in many miles. Camping is good for water and grass, and fuel may be had, but it is here scaree. On the west bank of this stream the road to Santa Fe by the way of St. Miguel turns off to the left, on which see the remarks at the end of this work from the crossing of the Canadian the road continues a little west of south just by and on the south side of a hill with small bushy pines.
A pond of water in the valley near to the pine hills, where fuel may be had. and water and plenty of grass for stock. From the pine hill the road bears a little more south, and will in 5 or 6 miles pass some very elevated tableland or a low, flat-top mountain. Leaving it on the right. will eross the bed of a small creek (frequently dry), hearing southeast, and will cross the valley obliquely to the elevated tableland which hounds the southern side of the valley, and will continue to the southwest quarter of the valley (which is several miles broad and projeets with several prongs west- ward) to where the tableland on the . south of the road joins a spur of what may be deemed a low moun- tain projecting to the south'd two or three miles. At the junction the road, turning more to the left, up a narrow valley, aseends to the top of the tableland. From this place, where there are a few small, bushy trees, fuel may be taken to a pond of water about half a mile east ward, where there is plenty of fine grass. The road continues around the spur of the mountain and turns west- ward up a small ereek with rocky eliff's, which will be immediately on the left, and will eross it immedi- ately at the upper end of the cliffs. and will continue up it, passing a gap of an arm of the mountain, and
108
KANSAS AND KANSANS
From Ft. Osage. Miles. Chns.
From Taos. Miles. Chns.
19
17
713 09
34 64
just a high chiff or point on the left, will cross a small fork of the creek and will continue up the north fork of it, which is the most considerable, to the foot of the mountain. On the south side of the small creek, which runs boldly, the road ascends the mountain, winding to the southwest to advan- tage until the brow is gained at the edge of a prairie. This part of the road up the mountain is strong and there is timber of pine and dwarf oak.
This hill is the worst part of the road. As it is, waggons can carry up light loads, but with labor it might (and with no great diffi- enlty) be made tolerably good. This is the first hill of difficulty from the commencement. It is about a mile and a half from the foot to the summit, and when at the summit a prairie, which like a fillet borders the brow of this spur of the mountains, will conduct the traveler in a western direction to its descent. The soil of the prairie is dark and rich and the grass luxuriant and fine. It abonnds with springs of finest water. All the way on this mountain there is much more ele- vated land on the right of the road. which is thickly timbered for the most part. Several species of pine. the aspen, some cedar and dwarf oak are the timbers of the momi- tain. Here also are found several sorts of game-hear, elk, deer, and turkey. Having descended the western side of this mountain, which is tolerably thickly timbered, at the foot of it the road enters a prairie, where there is a small beaten path leading in a western direction, as the road goes, con- tinuing up a branch on the north side of it, erossing almost at right angles, one fork of it about 10 links wide running very boldly south about two miles from the foot of the mountain. At about three miles further are three fine springs in the valley, where is plenty of fuel, but grass only tolerable --- nothing comparable anywhere in
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