USA > Kansas > Ford County > Dodge City > Dodge City, the cowboy capital, and the great Southwest in the days of the wild Indian, the buffalo, the cowboy, dance halls, gambling halls and bad men > Part 24
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"Mr. Ham Bell is the pioneer livery man of western Kansas. In addition to his large establishment in this city, he is also the proprietor of a branch establishment at Burrton. He cuts his own hay, grows his own corn, puts up ice, hunts buffaloes and wolves, and keeps up several other businesses in town. But he has never any- thing to do, and will give you a trade for a horse, jack- knife, meeting house, or cast-iron jail, just to please you. Ham is a genuine, live western man, and keeps things moving."
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A TREE IN HORSE THIEF CANYON Where a number of Horse Thieves were Hanged
Our fellow-townsman, and friend I am proud to call him, Governor W. J. Fitzgerald, has contributed largely to the building up of our town. He came here a poor boy, without money, and, what was worse, in very poor health. Indeed, it is a wonder he ever pulled through his long and severe sickness. But he is a rich man today, and has earned it all by his indefatigable industry and enterprise. He is the owner of one of the finest farms and stock ranches in Kansas, with large and commodious barns and stables, and fine farm house. He has represented us twice in the legislature, and was lieutenant-governor of Kansas two terms. He is a gifted orator, and ranks high among the foremost and brightest young men in our state. He is a fine business man and a shrewd politician and, mark by prediction, his voice will be heard in the halls of congress, one of these days.
Like Mr. Fitzgerald, there are others of our citizens who, though not the first settlers, have contributed large- ly to Dodge City's prosperity, advancement, and wealth, and Dr. C. A. Milton was at the head of this class. He is next to the oldest physician in Dodge today, enjoyed a large practice up to the time of his retirement, and now is much sought professionally, though acting only as a consulting physician. He can afford to avoid active prac- tice, as he has made a small fortune from his profession as well as from his success as a wheat and alfalfa grower.
A. Gluck was for a long time the leading jeweler of western Kansas, and was many times mayor of Dodge City. His persistent and deep-rooted faith in Dodge has made him a fortune. He has the distinction of being the only mayor ever impeached under the prohibition act, and his conduct was vindicated immediately afterwards by his being unanimously reelected by the people. He was not one of the first settlers, but has contributed large- ly to the building up of our city.
Of the many notable men that Dodge City has turned out, it is a pleasure to mention the names of Dr. Simpson
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and Dr. Crumbine. In early days, the "Romance of the West" was "Pipes O' Pan" to the restless youth, and among others who came west, in response to the "Pipes" was Dr. O. H. Simpson, whose mission was dentistry, and religion to save teeth. In his frontier isolation from the profession, he developed an individuality or style of den- tistry that the dental profession has recognized by adopt- ing much of it in their teachings and practice. Dr. Simp- son was thrice appointed a member of the Kansas State Board of Dental Examiners, serving as president of that body for a period of twelve years; and, in his early ef- forts to enforce the new dental law, he came so near do- ing it that the "outlaw" dentists dubbed him the "Cow- boy Dentist." The doctor always appreciated the fact that the greatest asset of life is youth; and it was through the open minds of the young men that made it possible for him to teach his methods of practice, while their added genius have developed modern dentistry. Doctor Simpson tells many funny stories of himself, when he was a tenderfoot and first came to Dodge, and they are mostly at his own expense.
Simpson and Ballou are the sole owners of the Wil- low Meadows Dairy, the largest and finest in western Kansas. It contains three hundred and twenty-five acres of rich meadow and is surrounded on all sides by large alfalfa fields. They have gone to great pains and expense to make it perfect. It enjoys all the modern improve- ments, such as gasoline engines, pumping clear, cool water from deep wells, ice plant, electric light plant, cool- ing rooms; and with screens and other modern improve- ments, it is impervious to dirt and flies. The milk is cooled in a systematic manner. They have a large herd of thoroughbred Holstein cows, and milk over half a hundred.
Dr. S. Jay Crumbine, who came to Dodge City in the early eighties and practiced medicine for a number of years with marked success, is especially entitled to fa-
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vorable mention as one of the Dodge City men who have done things. As secretary of our State Board of Health, he conceived the idea of the individual drinking cup, clean towels, inspection of hotels and restaurants, swat the fly, and many other things of a sanitary nature, that have received a world-wide recognition and adoption.
He not only thought these things out, but he carried them into effect by his indefatigable zeal and energy, and his writings along these lines, tuberculosis, and many other vital questions pertaining to health, should be read by everyone. Recognizing his ability, the Kansas State University elected him dean of their medical school, and he is filling this position now (1913), as well as acting as secretary of our State Board of Health, with, not only great credit to himself, but a widespread benefit to the public at large.
In concluding this list of Dodge citizens, I present a few words on the Honorable Ed. Madison, our gifted, greatly beloved, and much lamented townsman and con- gressman. His political career was short, but he cut a big figure and made a great reputation as a statesman and debater, for one so young and opportunities so limit- ed. He gave promise of big things in the future, had he lived. We were all proud of him; and his funeral was the largest ever seen in Dodge City, up to that time.
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CHAPTER XVII.
The Great Decline and Subsequent Revival
THE early Dodge City boomers never cut the cloth scant when fitting the garment for general utility. They had no narrow vision of the prospect, and the per- spective appeared the same width at both ends. As early as 1885 Dodge City was mentioned in the "Larned Optic" as destined to be a railroad center, which prophecy mod- ern times has seen well fulfilled; and it was continually spoken of as a future metropolis, which surmise is still a healthy inspiration, gradually ripening to fulfillment. Electric lights illuminated the vision of the mind as well as the eyes, of the early boomer; and when the old- timer set about promoting an enterprise, he had the con- sciousness of success. If the thing did not succeed at the time, it was the incentive for the revival of the scheme at a later date.
So, with her citizens imbued with such a spirit, and with the impetus given by the prodigious business activi- ties of the previous ten years, it is not strange that the beginning of the year 1886, saw Dodge City becoming modernized. Street grades had been established, with a view to future curbing and paving; a Board of Trade was organized in April, 1886, and was conducted with all the grave formality of later times and older communi- ties, and with the same earnestness in promoting enter- prises; about the same time, the first electric light com- pany was organized, and also a telephone company, though the latter did not fully succeed in working out all its plans till some years later. Free mail delivery was promised from Washington, as soon as the local post- office receipts reached ten thousand dollars yearly, but this promise did not materialize till the spring of 1910, twenty-four years after it was given.
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In this same year (1886), a waterworks system was also installed, and was first tested in the latter part of January, 1887. The "Globe" says: "There were six hose attached to six hydrants, in different parts of the city, all throwing water at the same time. The hose was three inches in diameter, and the nozzle one inch. At the hydrants in the south part of the city, it is estimated that streams, ranging from eighty to one hundred feet high, were thrown; while on the hills north, the power was not so great, the streams reaching a height of only fifty or sixty feet. The water was kept on for twenty minutes, and the people were well satisfied with the test. With this excellent system of waterworks, and with our three hose companies and hook and ladder company, which are in constant training, Dodge City can defy the fire fiend, in the future."
Dodge had cause to feel pride and security in her new fire fighting equipment, as she had experienced two disastrous fires before the establishment of the water- works system. The first of these fires occurred in Janu- ary, 1885, and it almost totally destroyed the whole block on Front street, between Second and Third avenues. The buildings were mostly frame, but a small brick building, on the west of the post office, was the means of checking the flames. The loss was estimated at sixty thousand dollars, on which the insurance was twenty-five thousand. The "Globe" tells of the heroic work of the volunteer fire- men in preventing a general fire.
Dodge City's second great fire, occuring December Ist, 1885, was again on Front street, in the block between First and Second avenues, which was completely destroy- ed. With the exception of the R. M. Wright building, which was of brick, all the buildings were of frame. The loss was computed at about seventy-five thousand dollars. The origin of the fire is supposed to have been a coal oil lamp exploding, or breaking from a fall, where it was suspended, upstairs over Sheridan's saloon. The fire oc-
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curing at seven in the evening, gave opportunity to save much inside property; but, owing to inadequate means of putting out fires, the entire block was soon consumed. As the "Globe" describes it: "Ladders were soon run up to the roof of the Globe building; and just as many men as could get around to work, started in, passing buckets of water, wetting blankets and spreading them on the roof and keeping them wet, while others kept the roof well covered with salt. At each of the upstairs windows were stationed one or two men, who kept the scorching, blis- tering building from taking fire. It was a hard and well- fought battle with the fiery element." The damage by moving stocks from the buildings on Chestnut street, besides houses that were scorched and damaged by water, amounted to considerable. There was no wind, and the evening was quiet and damp.
Such were the conditions and events leading to the establishment of facilities for fire protection. And one of Dodge City's institutions, of which she was particularly proud, was her little fire company. It was the pride of the village, and the pet of western Kansas and Colorado. Wherever our fire boys went, Wichita, Newton, Denver, Leadville, Pueblo, Colorado Springs, and Trinidad, they were feasted, wined and dined, toasted and given the place of honor; and never did they fail to bring home one of the first prizes for fast runs and all around efficiency, while their conduct away from home was an honor to our town, and always mentioned as such by the town of which they were the guests. Their trim, neat, and gentlemanly appearance was also universally remarked, and favorably commented upon.
It is a notorious fact and worthy of note that the climate around Dodge City is conducive to speed. Parties from Dodge, Mr. Sam Stubbs, William Tilghman, and others, have gone east and bought up and brought back to Dodge, old, broken-down race horses. Under good treatment and care, these horses would not only regain
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their former speed, but would way yonder surpass it, and would be taken back east and beat their former record and win many races. It was the same way with young athletes. They would come to Dodge, join our fire com- pany, and many of them turn out even-time men; and that is why our little fire company was always to the front. Dodge was also the home of some of the speediest wild animals on earth; for instance, the antelope, the little red, swift or prairie fox, the wild horse, deer, elk, and, last but not least, the jack rabbit. Perhaps speed was in the air-or climate.
The close of Dodge City's first great epoch of pros- perity was further marked by many projects for railroad building, most of which, however, fell through to a great- er or less extent. When the Bucklin branch was built, the intended extension of the road was through Arkan- sas, Kansas, and Colorado; but Ford county voted one hundred thousand dollars in bonds, to aid in this enter- prise, and the Bucklin branch was the limit. On Septem- ber 30th, 1887, the "Globe" said arrangements had been perfected for the grading, tieing, and laying of iron on the Arkansas, Kansas & Colorado Railroad, which was to be built, with a connection with the Rock Island at Buck- lin, to Dodge City, and "which must be completed by December 31st, to earn the hundred thousand dollars in county bonds, voted to said road to aid in its construc- tion. The president, Mr. C. D. Perry, has just returned from the East, where he arranged for all necessary ma- terial, and graders have gone to work." The Wichita & Western was looked for-it was always an ignis fatuus in railroad projects-but it never appeared. About this time the Montezuma railroad was considered, and was built by A. T. Soule. The road was abandoned, and the rails and ties taken up. Some traces of the old road bed are yet plain.
One of the institutions of this period, of which Dodge City was justly proud, and which carried her peculiar in-
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dividuality and atmosphere from one end of the country to the other, was the famous "Cowboy Band". This band was organized with a membership of eighteen men, in- cluding drum major and color bearer. The band wore the uniform of the cowboy. A large sombrero took the place of the ordinary hat, while a blue flannel shirt was substituted for the white-bosomed shirt, and a silk scarf took the place of a neck tie. Leather leggings, supported by a cartridge belt and scabbard, a navy six-shooter, and spurs on boots completed the dress of this famous band of musicians.
The "St. Louis Globe-Democrat" once printed a pic- ture of the band, showing Professor Eastman (the direc- tor) using a six-shooter to beat the time. A reporter on the paper asked the professor what he swung that gun for, and was told it was his baton. "Is it loaded?" asked the reporter. "Yes." "What for?" "To kill the first man who strikes a false note," was the professor's reply.
The Cowboy Band went over a larger scope of coun- try and was the best-advertised band of any band, east or west, that was ever organized. It attracted more at- tention wherever it went, not because it discoursed more beautiful music than any other band-although the mem- bers were highly complimented for their talent as musi- cians-but because of its unique appearance. After its fame became known, it was invited to a great many cele- brated gatherings; for instance, to Washington City, when President Harrison was inaugurated, and my! what a swath the bunch did cut. People just went wild over them, I expect because many of them had never seen a cowboy before; and their uniforms were a wonder to them. With their chapps and spurs and woolly leather leggings, belts and six-shooters, quirts, etc., it was indeed a sight to the people, and crowds followed in their wake, when they marched down Pennsylvania avenue. They liked to never got home. They were taken all around the country, and they were actually quarreled over, as to
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JOHN RINEY One of the Seven Old Timers of Dodge City
what city or convention they would go to next. They were loaded down with all sorts and kinds of trophies and presents, and even money was forced upon them.
Colonel Hunter, president of the St. Louis stock- men's convention, and Mr. Rainwater, mayor of St. Louis, entertained the Cowboy Band handsomely; they dined them and wined them and gave them the freedom of the city, and none of them was allowed to spend a cent. At a banquet, given them by Mr. Rainwater at his private residence, one of the band, a tall, raw-boned, awkward, ungainly man, George Horter by name, when they were seated at the banquet board, took up his finger bowl and drank the water. The other boys noticed this and were embarrassed at it. Mr. Rainwater came nobly to the rescue by taking up his finger bowl, also, and drinking from it to the health of the Cowboy Band.
While the band was in Topeka, they were invited to a banquet, given by the great lawyer and prince of good fellows, Captain George R. Peck, general solicitor of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad. During the ban- quet, this same George Horter said: "'Captain Peck!' Why, nearly twenty years ago my captain was named Peck." At that, Captain Peck said: "What regiment and company?" George told him, when they both jumped up and hugged each other. Such a scene you never wit- nessed. They both almost wept in each other's arms. After twenty years, to be brought together in this way! It was touching, to say the least.
"The Pueblo Chieftain," in an account of the cattle- men's convention, held in Dodge City, April 13th, 1882, says:
"The cattlemen's convention adjourned yesterday, and the proceedings wound up last night with the grand- est ball and banquet ever held in western Kansas. It is estimated that the stockmen here represented over fifty million dollars. Just think of that amount of money, in one hall, in a western town. The hall was splendidly
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decorated by the ladies of Dodge. Evergreen anchors, wreaths, crosses, and other emblems, with a number of fine pictures decorated the walls. Among the latter were several splendid oil paintings, the work of Mrs. Chalk Beeson. The ball was a masquerade affair. The music was furnished by the Cowboy Band, and the prompting was done by Mr. Beeson, the best in the business. The banquet was in Cox's very best style, and was a magnifi- cent affair."
The Kansas City papers reported during the exposi- tion of 1886: "The Cowboy Band elicited words of praise from fifteen thousand visitors yesterday. This band is composed of real cowboys, not soft-handed dudes in dis- guise, as some had supposed before seeing them."
The Cowboy Band was organized in 1881, after which time it gradually grew into prominence until it gained for itself a world-wide reputation. The first time the boys appeared in public as the Cowboy Band was in 1881, when they furnished music for the Topeka fair. In 1884 they attended the Cattlemen's National Convention at St. Louis, where they were presented with several mag- nificent banners as a token of the high appreciation by the people of St. Louis for the excellent music the boys furnished them. On the trip to St. Louis they also visited Chicago, St. Paul, Milwaukee, and several other impor- tant cities, and on all occasions were received by the people in a manner which showed their love for good music.
In 1885 they made their second visit to St. Louis, and in 1886 visited Pueblo and Denver, where they were received even in a more royal manner than in the eastern cities. And the boys were often heard to boast of the kind treatment they received at the hands of our good neighbors of the State of Colorado.
The abandonment of Fort Dodge, the settlement of the military reservation, and the establishment of the Soldiers' Home, were important steps in the seeming course of advancement, in this period of Dodge City's
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history. The abandonment of Fort Dodge as a military post, in June, 1882, created surprise among the Dodge City people and settlers generally. With the abandon- ment of the fort, the people would have no protection against Indian raids. But the troops stationed at Fort Dodge were sent, one company to Fort Reno, one com- pany to Fort Supply, and the third company to Fort El- liott, Texas, where they could be in proximity to the In- dian reservations.
Fort Dodge, after its abandonment by the military, was partially demolished, many buildings being removed. However, the rebuilding and repairing took place, and the establishment of the Soldiers' Home sustained the character of the famous post. The establishment of this Home was indicated as early as the first part of 1883, a resolution having been introduced in the Kansas legisla- ture, memorializing congress to cede the Fort Dodge mili- tary reservation for that purpose. But it was not until 1887 that the Home was established.
Late in May, 1886, a sudden rush for settlement, on the Fort Dodge reservation was made, early one Monday morning, and a hundred or more claims staked off, be- tween Sunday night at twelve o'clock and Monday morn- ing before sunrise. No one appeared to know how the reservation happened to be thrown upon the market all of a sudden, and no one stopped to inquire, but went right along with settling and improving some portion of the reservation, regardless of what the outcome might be. The people were perfectly wild with the excitement oc- casioned by this mysterious move. Every available team in the city was employed to haul lumber; carpenters were in demand, who, after being hired to do a little midnight job in the way of erecting a claim house, refused to work for their employers, but, on the other hand, hired teams and went to the reservation with lumber, squatted upon a hundred and sixty acres of land, and erected a house for themselves.
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.
Now all this was wholly unwarranted on the squat- ters' part. The reservation had not been thrown open to settlement, and the only foothold the premature settlers gained was that of "squatters' right" which gave him the first right to purchase, in case the land was put up for sale. The reservation lands were subsequently opened to settlement, on terms prescribed by the government, by purchase and priority in settlement. The original "squat- ters," except in a few instances, relinquished their rights, and others proved up the claims.
Not the least of the signs of modernism, in this par- ticular epoch of Dodge City, was the somewhat uncertain, but none the less significant moves toward certain social reforms. As is usual with the beginnings of such attempts, they took the form of the suppressing of profanity in public, and the establishment of a stricter form of Sun- day observance. An example of one of the first protests against profanity is that of Postmaster Reamer, who, through the "Globe" of December 21st, 1886, "protests against the profanity, and in the post office especially, by the ladies (?), if such they can be called; more especially those that swear just because they do not get a letter."
In early times, Sunday business was the same as week-day business. In the frontier days, stores were kept open on Sundays to accommodate the cattle and plains traders. Evidently the first efforts toward changing these conditions were, at first, regarded as almost hopeless. The following is significant: "Reverend O. W. Wright has presented a petition from the citizens of Dodge City to our merchants, requesting them to close their stores on the Sabbath day. He obtained the names of a majority of the merchants, but as all will not agree to close, the present effort will stop here."
By 1883, however, efforts along this line were more successful. A telegram from Dodge City, in the spring of that year, said of the town: "For the first time since its existence, it had, last Sunday, the semblance of Sab-
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bath. All business houses and saloons, dance halls and gambling halls were closed. There is universal rejoicing over this, and it is felt that all measures of reform, as contemplated by the city council, will be carried out. Many of the gamblers and prostitutes are leaving, most of them going to Caldwell. Now if Caldwell could only be reformed."
With all these movements toward development, im- provement, and reform, following directly after her great prosperity of earlier days, it would seem that Dodge City, in 1885, was on the certain road to further advancement, steady progress, and uninterrupted growth and prosperity. But, lo and behold! a new aspect came over the spirit of our dreams. Dodge City, once famous for its extraordin- ary prosperity, its lavishness in prodigality and possession of wealth, at one fell swoop was reduced to extreme poverty, almost want. The change was sharp and quick, and almost without warning. The dead line was moved to the state line, and Dodge City lost the cattle trade; she also lost a tremendous freight business by wagon, the buffalo hide and bone industry, and other business incident to a frontier country. Railroads, building on the south, had absorbed the freight by wagon route; and farmers, settling on the lands, further reduced the cattle trade. Under this pressure of civilization, the town stag- gered under the blow. Even the great Santa Fe Railroad felt the loss, for the company was put into the hands of a receiver, and the road's operating expenses were cut in two. It was the Santa Fe Railway which gave Dodge City her start in pioneer life; and with this confidence, we felt if everything else failed the road would continue to be a source of revenue to the city. Such depression, following so closely on the heels of her great affluence, was truly paralyzing.
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