USA > Kansas > Phillips County > Kirwin > Saga of old fort Kirwin 1869, and history of the Kirwin Kansas community, 1869-1969 > Part 2
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The old stone school building had served the community for 39 years and by 1918 had outlived its period of usefulness. A new building became a necessity and a contract was awarded to George T. Rickey of Norton to erect a new brick school house, in the amount of $25,370.
When the building was completed in 1919 several new courses were added to the cur- riculum. These consisted of manual train- ing, domestic science and the commercial courses. All three departments were equip-
ped with up-to-date equipment. Previous to this time the high school course was largely college preparatory.
The lower grades school building was approved by the State Board of Education as a standard school in 1921. This school is still being used and due to the thoughtful- ness of the remodelers the steps, bathroom facilities and water fountains were built to fit the scale of tiny feet and bodies.
Mrs. Alice (Wyrill) Willis is Kirwin's oldest living graduate.
And The Horses Ran
In 1874 and 75 the horses in and around Kirwin were not well enough fed to do much running and horseracing did not make its appearance until 1876, when it became a great sport.
Probably the greatest horseman the town ever knew was W.T.S. May who came to Kir- win in the winter of 1874-75 following the land office from its move from Cawker City to Kirwin. He owned a chestnut sorrel trot- ting horse named Grant. Grant took a little over three minutes to trot a mile and his driver took great pride in driving him. Later he went to Princeton, Mo., and pur- chased there an old king of the track named Ned. Old Ned was never beaten on the Kir- win track.
The Kirwin race track ran a straight course from the river bank south to what is now the south side of the square. Horse- racing was a great sport among the boys with betting going as high as 50c.
One day a stranger blew in from the east driving an old scrubby looking horse pulling a cart and leading a pretty sorrel mare behind with a blanket on. He stopped on the south side of Bedfords store and made some inquiries about the town and the country to the west. Soon the boys were crowding round looking under the blanket and making remarks such as "Looks like some goer", and "I'll bet she's hard to catch." After putting up his horse at George Noble's barn the sports were still hanging around and ad- miring the mare and before suppertime they had quite a bit of money put up for a race between the mare and another horse to be pulled off on Saturday afternoon. Well, be- fore the day for the race, the stranger told the boys he could not afford to waste time
for the small stake and wanted more money up. They replied it was too hard to pay up. So finally, he pretended to be very angry and accused them of not having the nerve and offered to double all bets and he'd run the old work horse. The boys fell for the trap and put up the stuff and the old horse ran away from the best horse they had in town. The boys were shy of strangers for many months after that.
Horseracing became so popular a track was built in the south end of town.
On the 4th of July, 1876, Frank Fowler was thrown from a race horse on the track south of town, but on alighting on the soft dirt as the horse "flew" the track, he jump- ed up and started to run after the horse. He was not injured and not much excited. The horse jumped over the ridge of dirt and grass that had been scraped up in preparation of the track.
HURRAY FOR KIRWIN!
"Oldest Town In Phillips County." SEE US FOR:
Electrical Services Of All Kinds
Eddie's Electric Eddie McDowell, owner Kirwin
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KIRWIN LAND OFFICE PERIOD
John Butler traveled from Kirwin to Waconda Springs, securing names to a pe- tition, asking that the U. S. Land Office be moved from Cawker City to Kirwin. In the same year in which the grasshoppers de- scended upon Phillips county there occurred a fight between Kirwin and Phillipsburg for the location of the U. S. Land Office, a con- tinuation of the rivalry started in 1872 with the selection of Phillipsburg as the county Seat. In the summer of 1874 two government agents came to Kirwin and later went to Phillipsburg looking for a location for the office.
A story that was not denied follows:
Kirwin parties knew the agents were coming, Phillipsburg people did not know of it. Kirwinites had the Kirwin House in fine shape and an extra bill of fare almost equal- ling a banquet and the agents were royally treated. Kirwin parties then drove them to Phillipsburg, after first having arranged for all the bread at Phillipsburg Hotel to be eaten up before the agents arrived. There- by the agents being unable to even get bread to eat, were taken back to Kirwin where they were once again royally treated.
Much to the chagrin of the Phillipsburg citizens the President located the office at Kirwin on Aug. 7, 1874, and it opened for business at Kirwin on Jan. 9, 1875.
There were no streets marked off in Kirwin in 1875 except by imaginary lines. There were tracks running to and from on the townsite like the roads on the country prair- ie. When the foundation was started for the land office it went across the track used by the public as a wagon road. One evening
Austin Spaulding had occasion to come to town on one road and after dark started to go home on another road and ran into this foundation. He broke his buggy and injured himself severely, being confined to his home for sometime thereafter.
The building to house the U. S. Land Of- fice was built on North Main street early in 1875. This was a great boomer for the town. People from all over northwest Kansas came there to put papers on their lands home- stead, timber entry, citizen's filing and soldiers filing as the papers were then call- ed. In the spring of 1875 it was not an un- common sight to see the prairie northeast. of the land office building clear at night and by the following morning it would be cover- ed with men, horses, saddles, wagons, har- ness and tents. There was much rivalry. Long before nine o'clock in the morning the men would begin to line up so as to hold their positions and get into the land office as soon as possible after the key turned in the door. Many of the older settlers all over northwest Kansas will remember their vis- its to Kirwin to secure title to their lands on which they had up to that time nothing but a "Squatter's Right."
Early in the year of 1894 Lafe Smith, one of the pioneers of Stockton, and W. H. Caldwell, one of the pioneers of Beloit, both officers, at four o'clock on the day set for closing, Lafe Smith stuck his head out a window and said in a loud voice "Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye, the United States Land Office at Kirwin, Kans., is now closed, for- ever." This ended the work of the office which for many years following '75 was very lively.
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Serving The Transportation Needs Of The Kirwin Community !!
EAR MCDOWELL TIRE
Chuck Weems, Ralph Lare, Lynn Stockman, Ronald Kester. Laree McDowell, Charles McDowell dressed for the Centennial
There have been a lot of changes in transportation the past 100 years, but we've kept up with the times! We will continue to offer the best deals in used cars and pickups, Champlin, products, and Goodyear tires.
McDOWELL MOTORS
Charles McDowell, Owner Kirwin, Kansas
My, How Times Have Changed!
We're Looking Forward To The Future In Kirwin."
You've had a great 100 years and we've been privileged to share in part of it.
We're also planning on being around to help out the next 100 years!
Southwestern Bell Telephone Company
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Lodges
With the growth of the town, organiza- tions of lodges was noted. The earliest date, Apr. 25, 1877, was the establishing of Kirwin Lodge No. 143, I.O.O.F. This lodge met every Tuesday evening in the Moultin Hall.
The next lodge to be organized was "Gar- field Lodge, No. 39. Knight of Pythias," or- ganized June 10, 1881. This lodge met every Monday night in the Moultin Block Hall.
Kirwin Lodge No. 175 A.F. & A.M. re-
ceived a dispensation from the M.W. Grand Lodge of the State of Kansas in 1877, and was chartered the following year. The lodge meetings were held the second and fourth Saturday of each month in the Moultin Hall, west of the square.
J. H. Briney organized a branch of the Life and Annuity Association. It was a mu- tual life insurance company upon the basis of a fraternal society.
Disasters
GRASSHOPPERS
The grasshoppers took the crops en- tirely in 1874, but in 1875 no crops suffered in the vicinity of Kirwin. In 1876, many sections of the country suffered severely from these little pests. It is almost useless to attempt to describe a raid by the grass- hoppers to anyone who has not seen some- thing of it. They came in such numbers that on a bright and sunshiny day they hid the sun like the darkest cloud. The noise they make sounds like an approaching wind- storm. They will eat any kind of crop ex- cept castor beans. They are especially fond of watermelons, eating vines and all.
EARTHQUAKE
In August 1878 two men were camped on the bank of the South Solomon. The quake
came with the roar of a loaded freight train and the water in the river seemed to boil. The earth shook and the wagon under which they slept rattled like a giant hand had hold of it. The dishes were shaken from the shelves at Kirwin.
Cover Picture
This is a picture of the Delmar School House in the early '70's. It was built along the banks of Bow Creek on land belonging to the Hawks family.
The community used the school house for church and Sunday School and other social functions until they built a stone school house, by subscription sometime after 1875. This was known as District No. 17.
DO YOU KNOW WHERE THIS BUILDING STOOD?
Cus. W. HULL
ONE PRICE CLOTHING . LOWEST
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KIRWIN OPERA HOUSE
A Grand Meeting Place
One of the definite necessities for early Kirwin was a brass band. It was formed in 1879 and called the "Kirwin Cornet Band". It was led and instructed by Prof. Smiley, and in a few weeks proceeded to dispense sweet music on the street. This was the first brass band in the county and conse- quently was very much in demand. The mem- bers of this band were: A. G. McBride, C. A. Lewis, W. W. Gray, L. L. Gray, Fred Greub, Eugene John, Mr. Jerome, Lew Campbell and "Billy" Gray.
In the early 80's the band through a cor- poration, built the Kirwin Opera House at a cost of five thousand dollars. The building was 125 x 50 feet, and had a stage at the rear that measured 25 x 50 feet. It was fully equipped with scenery.
Kirwin had long felt a need for something of this kind. People living in pioneer towns seldom had the opportunity to visit the theater. Not so with Kirwin. The Opera House, being the best anywhere in western Kansas, soon gained a reputation among traveling shows and theatricals, and many of our rival towns turned green.
Those were the years when people came from miles around to dance to the music of Lawrence Welk and his orchestra, and other popular musicians of the era. They laughed at the antics of Cab Calloway and thrilled to the piano music played by "Blind Boone". The finest talent of that time came to per- form at the Opera House.
One of the early attractions was Vernon Delhart, one of the singers on the First Edi- son phonograph records. He used to travel the country putting on singing demonstra-
tions. He would play his recordings for the audience, singing along with them. William Jennings Byran, famed orator and presi- dential candidate, made several lectures at Kirwin while on the Chautauqua circuit. The North Brothers were one of the featured traveling stage companies. They would move into town and stay a week, performing a dif- ferent show each evening and then move on. Those too, were the days of the old fashion- ed buck-and-wing, blackface minstrel troups, mammy songs, and Fourth of July Balls.
Some traveling shows had hypnotists who would hypnotize a local man, put him in a coffin with just a tube through which to breathe, and bury him in the ground for a day or two. This was the only act that the Kir- win citizens objected to and took steps to out- law them.
Names covered the dressing room and backstage walls of performers, musicians and people through the years. Some famous other infamous, but all wanted to leave a little bit of their image there.
The Opera House was owned by various groups and families down through the years, and in 1964 the Norden Brothers purchased" it and tore it down. During the dismantling, two bullets were found in the walls, proving they must have had a rip-roaring time, once upon a time.
The hokum, tears, social significance, shudders, gags, extravagant humor, sticky sweetness, black villainy, and admirable artistry that once were to be found in the Opera House, is now the essence of the memory that remains only with those who were present to applaud.
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From the
Earth to
the Stars. . .
Our moon landing made big news, but we think the dream come true of the rugged pioneers who settled and worked the land around Kir- win one hundred years ago, makes just as dramatic a mark on history.
We congratulate the anscestors of these hardy pioneers for carrying on their tradition in the fine community of Kirwin.
Farmers National Bank
AGRA, KANSAS
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An Early Day Industry
MILLS
On the north bank of the Solomon River, south of Kirwin stood an old mill that played an important part in the development of the territory in the early days. It was built in 1872 by men named Skinner and Adams, and the pioneers came' from miles around, on horseback, ox teams, teams and wagons or walked, to bring their grains to the mill. For several years it was just a grist mill, only
grinding the coarser grains and not making flour. Many times they were so busy that customers had to wait for hours. It was the mill's custom to take care first of the ones who had come the farthest distance. For those who lived nearer, a small quantity of whatever they wanted was ground to tide them over for a few days. There were two sets of burrs in this mill and they were im- ported from France. They were freighted
CONGRATULATIONS
On 100 Years' Progress!
KIRWIN AMERICAN LEGION & AUXILIARY
Harry E. Clarke Post No. 277
Let's All Celebrate Kirwin Centennial! RON'S
COIN CAR Operated
WASH Kirwin, Kansas
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from Russell to Kirwin by Lyman Perkins in 1873. One of the original burrs is in the center of the Fort Kirwin marker.
The original mill building was destroyed by fire about 1878, and its owners had to borrow a huge sum of money to rebuild. The fire started in the low story and Enos Mul- len, who was sleeping in the third story was compelled to jump out of the window to save his life. Skinner and Adams became dis- couraged after a few years when they did not make enough to pay off the debt, and in September, 1885, John and C. R. Jackson purchased the mill.
When they bought the mill, the dam was out as it had often been washed out many times by flood waters, and this time they made a great effort to build it stronger. It was rebuilt and reinforced with cement be- tween the logs and a four inch slab of con- crete put on top.
In 1889, Jacksons remodeled the Kirwin mill, installing a sifter which at that time was one of the very latest improvements in mill machinery. Also, when "Bert" and his wife attended the World's Fair in Omaha, Neb., he saw just what he needed for the mill, a 40 hp Otto single cylinder engine. He purchased it and had it shipped to Kirwin after the Fair closed. In earlier years the Solomon river ran a good stream of water, offering all the needed power for the water wheel. As the water level fell, how- ever, the flow of the river decreased, and it was difficult to operate the mill at certain times of the year. When Jackson installed the engine it was the first power other than water that had ever been used in the mill. From then on after the installation, and with E. A. Slightam as operative miller, the busi- ness increased as there was no need to wait for water in the river. Most of that time the
mill ran 24 hours a day and as many as 65 teams had been known to wait in line
Of all the early day mills surrounding Kirwin, including such towns as Logan, Hill City, Phillipsburg, Kensington, Gaylord, just to mention a few, it was the last in opera- tion. Clyde W. Jackson finally closed the doors in February, 1943.
All during the years the dam was an ideal spot for fishing, and during the summer days and nights, boys and men spent many happy hours there. Swimming was a favorite pas- time during the summer and in the winter when the river was frozen over, skating parties were often seen gliding up and down.
With the construction of the Kirwin Dam by the Bureau of Reclamation in 1952, the mill site disappeared and now only fond memories of the "Old Mill" linger.
FIRST BENTON - THEN "KIRWIN* BECAME THE NAME
In the year of 1869, after Fort Kirwinhad been abandoned, the prairies were left free for the Indians and buffaloes. Then there came a few men with a dream of home- steading. C. A. Van Allen, Thomas Cox Sr., John Lindsey and a few others followed the Solomon river west and came to what they felt was an ideal location, not for only homesteading in the rich river bottom fields, but for a community. So with a dream of so few, there came a busy thriving town. For the first few months the settlement was known as Benton. Then Van Allen, Thomas Cox Sr., and John Lindsey felt that because of the military fort and the man that establish- ed it should be forever honored, they re- named the settlement "Kirwin".
OUR SINCERE Congratulations
to the people of Kirwin on their 100th Anniversary.
ANDY'S GARAGE Kirwin, Kansas
Congratulations On Your PROGRESS
During The First 100 Years!
Here's wishing you many more progressive years!
STOCKMAN'S RETAIL LIQUOR STORE
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.
KIRWIN CITY LIBRARY
When some of the ladies of the commu- nity saw a need for some "culture" in the new settlement, they got together and main- tained a "reading room". A few old books at the Library show the stamp of the reading room and have the date of 1879 stamped in- side the cover.
This was the foundation of the Library that was to follow. On Aug. 20, 1912 a group of women met at the Landes Hall to establish a Library. This organization was known as "The Woman's Library Associa- tion." Officers were elected and the City Council offered to pay fifteen dollars on the rent of the Landes building. The girl's class offered to pay five dollars to the As- sociation. This made the rent of the build- ing as sured.
Committees were named. Furnishings were donated and books were gathered to- gether. A meeting was scheduled to hold a reception to bring the people in touch with the movement. The Library was open every Monday, Wednesday and Saturday afternoons. Interest was shown in this new meeting place. The Band boys were allowed to use the room one evening a week for practice. A Sunday School class used it one night a week free of charge. The general election was held there. Since the Library room seemed to be a very popular place for holding meet- ings, the officers discussed the use of the place and decided that it should not be used for money making purposes, such as dances, card parties and so on.
Expenses were not large in those days, the Librarian received a dollar a week. A
boy was hired for twenty-five cents to clean the room. Cobs and coal were bought to keep the place warm and of course the boy that did the cleaning had to carry in the fuel and carry out the ashes.
After a time the officers saw the need of charging for meetings held at the Library. A charge of one dollar was made for an af- ternoon or evening meeting, with an extra charge of twenty five cents for lights and the same amount for fuel, unless the people that were to use the room wanted to bring their own fuel. Teas and suppers were held to bring in money to buy books and maintain the Library.
As early as 1915 books from the Travel- ing Book Trunks were received for use at the Library for a period of six months. This gave the public more of a variety to choose from.
During the war years the Library seemed to
weaken. It was during this time the Landes Building was given up and the books were moved to the large community room in the new City building. The hours were shortened for the lack of help and lack of coal. After a few years, by permission of the Council the books were moved down to the Council room. It seemed a better location as it was on the ground floor and easier to clean and heat.
In 1918 only six members paid their dues and the Library seemed to be at its lowest ebb. There was no money to pay a Librarian so the president kindly consented to keep the room open. During the four months she col lected from fines and dues, four dollars
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and twenty three cents. A Baby Bond was purchased for the association for four dol- lars and sixteen cents. This left seven cents. Uncle Sam needed the money. Peo- ple were patriotic in those days. In the view of pressing need of Red Cross Work a de- cision was made to close the room until fall. The Association's work went on and in July 1921 they made the request of the City Coun- cil that one half mill be levied for the use by the Library the following year. This levy
eventually took place and there was some help in keeping up the expenses. The Li- brary took on new life and it seemed best that it be moved to the southeast room up- stairs. After a few years it was necessary to have more room so partitions were taken out and the stairs moved and the whole east side of the upper story of the City building was used for Library purposes.
In 1926 the matter of binding the "In- dependent" dating from 1891 to 1899 and the "Kansan" dating from 1902 to 1942, for the Library was started. This project was completed in 1965. Clubs in the area were greatly responsible for financing this pro- ject. In these volumes we have a wealth of local history.
Late in 1926 the Kansas Traveling Li- brary Book trunks were again ordered, so as to supplement the home owned books. This practice was continued up to the time that the Central Kansas Library System started furnishing books from the Book Mo- bile.
The ever growing demand on the needs of the Library was financed by the proceeds from ice cream suppers, pie suppers, bingo par- ties, penny fairs and carnivals.
The Depression came but the Library stood its grounds. There was no money to buy new books but those that were on hand were read and re-read. Many hours were spent by women in mending and repairing of the books.
Early in the life of the Library the women saw the need of magazines being placed in the Library and a subscription list was made up. Some of the early subscriptions were the National Geographic, which we have most of the back issues from 1913 to the present time, The Harper's Monthly Magazine, The Forru, The American Magazine and the Cen- tury Magazine.
In April 1946 the people of Kirwin voted to have the Community Library to become the Kirwin City Library. One and one half mill could be levied to finance it. This levy did not fully finance the needs so various ways were sponsored by the Library Board and the services were carried on through the years.
In the spring of 1965 the improvement of Library services in the state was under- way and the grants and systems were topics of meetings held. On Apr. 8 a special meet- ing was called for the Board of the Library and they voted to join the Central Kansas Library Systems. We have found it very helpful and our services are many. The Book Mobile comes every month and leaves seven boxes of books each time in the ro- tating book service and many books are loan- ed from K I C, from the various large Li- braries in Kansas.
So it is with thanks to those early pioneers that we have been able to carry on the "need of culture" down through the years.
From A Pioneer Firm To A PIONEER COMMUNITY
Congratulations on 100 years of ser- vice. We hope to continue to serve in the future as in the past.
HARDMAN LUMBER CO.
Agra Phillipsburg
CONGRATULATIONS
on the
Centennial Year of the
Kirwin Community
DR. F. LEE DOCTOR Agra
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LOOKING AHEAD ...
Citizens of Kirwin:
We congratulate you on your centennial cele- bration. May you have many more such important oc- casions in the future !
F
B
FIRST NATIONAL BANK of Phillipsburg
Religious Highlights
ILAY
RELIGIOUS MEETINGS AND CHURCHES OF THE EARLY DAY
The first mention of religious meetings were those that were held by the settlers in their homes. Thomas Cox was an expounder of the scriptures and religious meetings were held in his home. One Sunday while the peo- ple were gathered there at his home to wor- ship, he noticed a herd of buffalo grazing west of where they were meeting to worship. He knew they were all in need of meat, so he dismissed the meeting so they could kill buffalo.
The first Methodist Episcopal class in Phillips county was held about seven miles west of Kirwin at John Sheckler's house on Sept. 11, 1870. It was called Kildare Class. Mr. Sheckler was the leader. Those who were members of this class were Thomas Cox, John Sheckler and wife, William Ray and wife and Henry Hill.
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