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REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
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BOSTON OF TO-DAY
A GLANCE AT ITS HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS
WITH BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AND PORTRAITS OF MANY OF ITS PROFESSIONAL AND BUSINESS MEN
COMPILED UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF
RICHARD HERNDON
.
EDITED BY EDWIN M. BACON
Illustrated
BOSTON POST PUBLISHING COMPANY 1892. G.F.
BOZĽOM O
A
TA - BOMAJD
LOAJARD
1779194
1.
HERNDON, RICHARD, compiler.
. 398
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8441
Boston of to-day. A glance at its history
and characteristics, with biographical sketches
and portraits of many of its professional and
business men.
Edited by Edwin M. Bacon.
Bos-
ton, Post Publishing Co. , 1892. vi, 461p. illus., ports. 29cm.
Gift '53
STTELE CARD
ICN
53-7106
tels pax
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
I. BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION :
A GLANCE AT THE HISTORY OF BOSTON - ITS DEVELOPMENT FROM THE LITTLE COMMERCIAL TOWN TO THE GREAT MODERN CITY 1
II. BOSTON'S BUSINESS INTERESTS:
TRADE AND COMMERCE A HALF-CENTURY AGO AND NOW . 3
III. TRADE CENTRES:
8 RETAIL, WHOLESALE, AND FINANCIAL QUARTERS, PAST AND PRESENT .
IV. RAILROADS:
DEVELOPMENT OF THE GREAT LINES CENTRING IN BOSTON - THE STREET-CAR SYSTEM IO
V. SOME NOTEWORTHY BUILDINGS:
PUBLIC AND OTHER STRUCTURES, MODERN AND HISTORIC, AND INSTI- TUTIONS WITHIN THE BUSINESS QUARTERS .
27
VI. THE NEW WEST END:
RISE AND. PROGRESS OF THE BACK-BAY IMPROVEMENT - DISTINGUISH- ING FEATURES OF THE DISTRICT TO-DAY - ITS BUILDINGS, CHURCHES, AND DWELLINGS 54
VII. THE SOUTH END:
ITS DEVELOPMENT FROM THE NARROW NECK - INTERESTING INSTITU- TIONS AND CHURCHES - THE GREAT CATHEDRAL . 73
VIII. NORTH AND OLD WEST ENDS:
QUAINT AND PICTURESQUE WAYS AND BY-WAYS - BEACON HILL AND ITS LITERARY QUARTER - SOME INTERESTING LANDMARKS 81
IX. THE COMMON AND THE GARDEN:
MODERN FEATURES OF THE HISTORIC "TRAYNING FIELD " OF WINTHROP'S TIME AND THE NEWER PARK .
85
L
-------
iv
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
X. THE THEATRES:
EARLIER BOSTON PLAYHOUSES AND THOSE OF TO-DAY . 90
XI. THE CLUBS:
· FEATURES OF THE MANY SOCIAL AND PROFESSIONAL ORGANIZATIONS
OF THE TOWN . 100
XII. THE OUTLYING DISTRICTS:
EAST BOSTON, SOUTH BOSTON, ROXBURY, DORCHESTER, CHARLESTOWN, WEST ROXBURY, AND BRIGHTON 106
XIII. BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES AND PORTRAITS OF BUSINESS AND
PROFESSIONAL MEN . I20
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
BOSTON HARBOR, SHOWING THE "ATLANTA " OF THE WHITE SQUADRON RICHARDS BUILDING
7
STATION OF BOSTON & ALBANY RAILROAD II
STATION OF BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD - WESTERN DIVISION I2
STATION OF BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD - EASTERN DIVISION . I3
STATION OF BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD - LOWELL DIVISION . 14
STATION OF THE OLD COLONY RAILROAD - PROVIDENCE DIVISION
15
STATION OF OLD COLONY RAILROAD --- MAIN DIVISION 16
STATION OF OLD COLONY RAILROAD AT NORTH EASTON 16
STATION OF FITCHBURG RAILROAD I7
VIEW OF HOOSAC TUNNEL, FITCHBURG RAILROAD 18
STATION AT WALTHAM, FITCHBURG RAILROAD . 19
2I
STATION OF BOSTON, REVERE BEACH, & LYNN RAILROAD . 22
VIEW OF ELECTRIC CAR ON TREMONT STREET, WEST END STREET RAILWAY 23
STEAMER " SWAMPSCOTT," OF THE BOSTON, REVERE BEACH, & LYNN RAILROAD 24
INTERIOR VIEW OF POWER-HOUSE OF WEST END STREET RAILWAY
25
INTERIOR VIEW OF POWER-HOUSE OF WEST END STREET RAILWAY
26
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
28
IRON BUILDING - G. T. MCLAUTHLIN & Co.
29
FANEUIL HALL .
30
PROPOSED NEW BUILDING OF THE INTERNATIONAL TRUST COMPANY
31
JOHN HANCOCK BUILDING
33
BUILDING OF THE AMERICAN BELL TELEPHONE COMPANY .
35
STATE-STREET EXCHANGE .
36
FISKE BUILDING .
37
JOHN C. PAIGE INSURANCE BUILDING
39
AMES BUILDING . 41
NEW COURT HOUSE 42
SEARS BUILDING .
43
CITY HALL
45
9
STATION OF THE NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND RAILROAD, WITH INTERIOR VIEWS OF " WHITE TRAIN " 1. The Royal Smoker. 2. Dining Car. 3. Parlor Car. 4. Interior View of Pullman Sleeper, Long Island Train.
vi
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
ALBION BUILDING - HOUGHTON & DUTTON .
47
CHADWICK BUILDING - W. H. BRINE .
49
STATE HOUSE
51
THE PEMBERTON
52
BUILDING OF THE AMERICAN PROTECTIVE LEAGUE
53
HOTEL VENDOME
57
COPLEY SQUARE .
59
NEW PUBLIC LIBRARY . .
62
BUILDING OF THE AMERICAN LEGION OF HONOR
67
WOODBURY BUILDING .
.
71
PIERCE BUILDING
72
LANGHAM HOTEL .
75
NEW ENGLAND CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC
77
WASHINGTONIAN HOME
. 79
BUILDING OF THE POPE MANUFACTURING COMPANY .
80
PUBLIC GARDEN
90
INTERIOR VIEW OF BOSTON THEATRE
95
.
INTERIOR VIEW OF HOLLIS-STREET THEATRE .
98
EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE NEW COLUMBIA THEATRE. .
99
BUILDING OF THE S. A. WOODS MACHINE COMPANY
109
WORKS OF THE WALWORTH MANUFACTURING COMPANY
IIO
BOSTON GAS WORKS .
III
RESIDENCE OF JOHN P. SPAULDING
112
RESIDENCE OF CHARLES V. WHITTEN
113
BUILDING OF THE FORBES LITHOGRAPHIC COMPANY .
114
BUNKER HILL MONUMENT .
115
WORKS OF THE LOW ART TILE COMPANY
II7
RESIDENCE OF WILLIAM F. WELD
I18
.
.
.
٠٠ ٠٫٠٠
I
-
BOSTON OF TO-DAY.
I.
BY WAY OF INTRODUCTION.
A GLANCE AT THE HISTORY OF BOSTON - ITS DE- VELOPMENT FROM THE LITTLE COMMERCIAL TOWN TO THE GREAT MODERN CITY.
A
MONG American cities Boston holds a unique position. It is to-day at once the most famous of the few historic cities of the republic and in the best sense the most progressive. In no other city of our bounding country is there such a peculiar blending of the old and the new, the ancient and the modern, as here in Boston. In its business quarters are well-preserved landmarks of the colonial, the provincial, and the revolutionary periods cheek by jowl with the most modern struct- ures of this age of progress. Sterling citizens suc- cessfully maintain conservative business methods, while enterprises of the greatest importance and magnitude in distant parts of the country, as well as within the city's boundaries, are fostered and ad- vanced by Boston merchants and Boston capitalists. Possessing the genius and sagacity of the merchants of the earlier Boston who won the famous sobriquet of " solid," the men of the Boston of To-day also display the characteristics which are found in the best type of the enterprising American of these times. While Boston men have developed from the compact little commercial town of fifty years ago the substantial modern metropolis, Boston cap- ital has built great Western cities and established great Western railways, developing the resources of the country and opening up its incalculable agricultural and mineral wealth.
For many years after the settlement, the North End, the earliest "court end " of the town, was the greater part of Boston proper. The original Boston
consisted of a " pear-shaped peninsula " about two miles long, and one mile wide at its broadest part, broken by little creeks and coves and diversified by three hills. The loftiest of these - reduced into our present Beacon hill - was described by the early chroniclers as "a high mountaine with three little hils on the top of it." And it was this forma- tion of the highest hill that suggested the name " Trimontaine," first given the place by the set- tlers at Charlestown, and which Winthrop's men changed to " Boston " when they moved across the river, in October, 1630, and established the new town. Until after the Revolution the topographi- cal features of the town were not greatly changed. Towards the close of the last century, in 1784, Shurtleff relates, the North End, which had then " begun to lose its former prestige and gave un- questionable evidence of decay and unpopularity," contained about 680 dwelling-houses and tene- ments and 6 meeting-houses ; "New Boston," or that portion we now call the "Old West End," including Beacon hill, about 170 dwelling-houses and tenements; and the South End, then extend- ing from the " Mill bridge " in Hanover street, over the old canal, to the fortifications on "the Neck," near Dover street, about 1,250 dwelling-houses, 10 meeting-houses, all the public buildings, and the principal shops and warehouses. "Some of the mansion-houses of this part," says Shurtleff, writing twenty years ago, " would now be considered mag- nificent ; and the Common, although perhaps not so artistically laid out, with paths and malls as now, was as delightful a training-ground and pub- lic walk as at the present time." No streets had then been constructed west of Pleasant street and the Common.
Early in the present century, in 1803, Charles street was laid out ; the next year Dorchester Neck and Point, the territory forming the greater part of
2
BOSTON OF TO-DAY.
what is now South Boston, were annexed to Boston ; twenty years later, when the town had become a city, came the great improvements of the elder Quincy, the second mayor,1 whose administration covered six terms, from 1823 to 1829. These included the building- of the Quincy Market-house, officially termed the Faneuil Hall, to the confusion of citizens as well as strangers ; the opening of six new streets and the enlargement of a seventh ; and the acquisi- tion of flats, docks, and wharf rights to the extent of 142,000 square feet ; " all this," says Quincy's Municipal History, "accomplished in the centre of a populous city not only without any tax, debt, or burden upon its pecuniary resources, but with large permanent additions to its real and productive prop- erty." Next, in 1830, the development of the newer South End, south of Dover street to the Rox- bury line, was begun, though not systematically pur- sued until about twenty years later; in 1833 the upbuilding of " Noddie's Island," before that time a " barren waste," we are told, but none the less a picturesque spot and a favorite with fishing-parties, was energetically started, when its name was changed to " East Boston ; " in 1857 the great " Back Bay Im- provement," the result of which is the beautiful " New West End" of to-day, began; at the same time the " marsh at the bottom of the Common," over which there had been controversy for years, was formally set apart for the Public Garden, and soon after systematic plans for its development made ; in 1867 the city of Roxbury was annexed to Boston by popular vote (becoming officially connected in January, 1868), in 1869 the town of Dorchester (officially joined in January, 1870), and in 1873 the city of Charlestown and the towns of Brighton and West Roxbury (officially, in January, 1874) ; and after the great fire of November, 1872, which burned over sixty-five acres in the heart of the busi- ness quarter and destroyed property valued at $75,- 000,000, immense street improvements were made through the widening and straightening of old thor- oughfares and the opening of new ones, and a more substantial and more modern business quar- ter, architecturally finer in some respects than any similar quarter in any other American city, was built up.
By the reclamation of the broad, oozy salt marshes, the estuaries, coverts, and bays once stretching wide on its southern and northern borders, the original 783 acres upon which Boston town was settled have been expanded to 1,829 acres
of solid land, and by annexation from time to time 21,878 acres have been added,? making the present total 23,707 acres, or 37.04 square miles. Where the area was the narrowest it is now the widest, and in place of the compact little town of a hundred years ago on its "pear-shaped peninsula " less than two miles in its extreme length and its greatest breadth only a little more than one, is the greater Boston of To-day, extending from north to south eleven miles and spreading nine miles from east to west. In place of the population of 25,000 which the Boston of the first year of the present century counted, the Boston of To-day counts 450,000 ; and the taxable valuation of the city has increased from $15,095,700 in 1800, to $911,638,887 (Feb. 1, 1892). The total taxable area in the city is 716,- 215,872 square feet. The total number of dwelling- houses is 52,831 ; of hotels, 86; of family hotels, 512 ; of store buildings, 3,553 ; and miscellaneous, 5,728. In municipalities within a radius of eight miles of the State House the population in 1891 was over 680,000, and of twelve miles, 873,000, or 38.97 per cent. of the entire population of the State. Of this surrounding territory the Boston of To-day is the real business centre.
The greatest and most marked changes that have taken place between old and new Boston have been effected within the memory of many persons now living. In the transformation much of the pictur- esqueness and old-time charm has disappeared, but in their stead there is much in the beautiful modern city to delight the eye ; while the flavor of mellow age which with all its modernness the town yet re- tains, and the blending of the old and new which it so frequently displays, have a fascination which no other American city possesses. In its intellectual and artistic growth and development its progress has been as marked as in its physical aspects and its material prosperity. The great educational and literary institutions of the Boston of To-day, both public and private, stand among the very highest. Its public-school system, its Public Library, its Art Museum, its Museum of Natural History, its Insti- tute of Technology, its Athenæum, and its collec- tions of historical treasures, are all in their way unsurpassed. In literature it has long been pre- eminent, and in spite of the gaps which death has made in the ranks of its authors, its primacy in this respect is not seriously threatened. Many of the most important books of the day bear the Boston
1 Boston was made a city in 1S22, and John Phillips, father of Wen- dell Phillips, was elected the first mayor. The first city government was organized on the ist of May that year.
? In this total are included the 836 acres secured by the develop- ment of East Boston, and the 755 acres of Breed's Island. No account is made of the 437 acres of Rainsford, Gallop's, Long, Deer, and Apple Islands, and the Great Brewster, all of which are within the city limits.
-
3
BOSTON OF TO-DAY.
imprint, its publishing houses are among the fore- most in the country, and the best of its periodical publications are held at the high standard which Boston was among the earliest in the history of American literature to reach. In the department of music its superiority is everywhere acknowledged. The first of American cities to take an advanced position with respect to musical taste and culture, it has steadfastly held the lead, and to-day its Symphony Orchestra and its many musical associations admir- ably maintain its position. Offering greater advan- tages than any other American city, and affording through the winters practically unlimited opportuni- ties of hearing the very best music of the highest grade, it attracts large numbers of musical students and patrons of the art. Its theatres, too, are among the most beautiful and comfortable in the country. And important factors in the social and cultivated life of the town are its numerous literary, art, pro- fessional, business, and social clubs, many of them established in finely appointed club-houses.
In philanthropic, benevolent, charitable, and church work the Boston of To-day is also among the foremost. Its institutions for the benefit of the people or of those classes who need a helping hand, for the relief of the suffering and the afflicted, and for the care of the unfortunate, are many and varied ; and they are nobly sustained. It has been esti- mated that the capital invested in charitable work in the city is $16,000,000 ; that there is one charitable or benevolent society for every twenty thousand people within its boundaries ; and that the annual pri- vate contributions of Bostonians for benevolent pur- poses exceed half a million dollars. Through the local organization widely known as the " Associated Charities " many of the societies and associations are brought into close communion, and the work is so systematized that it is made more effective and thorough than it could possibly be were each organ-
ization operating independently in the field. Of the church buildings many are fine examples of the best architectural work of the day, and in church prop- erty millions of dollars are invested. The religious organizations are active in many directions, and Boston clergymen are with other good citizens con- cerned in movements and work for the material as well as the spiritual well-being of the com- munity.
In a word, the Boston of To-day is a great modern city, far reaching in its enterprise and industry, of manifold activities, a place of many attractions, well built, fairly adorned ; sustaining well the reputation which the old town bore as the commercial and in- tellectual capital of New England.
II.
BOSTON'S BUSINESS INTERESTS.
TRADE AND COMMERCE A HALF-CENTURY AGO AND NOW.
THERE are few men in active business life in the
Boston of To-day who can recall at all clearly the general outlines even of the Boston of half a cen- tury ago, and fewer still who can trace in detail the various and remarkable changes which have trans- formed the bustling little town of that time into the great city of to-day. In 1840 the three initial rail- roads, the Lowell, the Providence, and the Worces- ter, had been in operation but five years, up to which time the Middlesex Canal to tide-water at Clinton street, the "wonder of its day," 1 had flourished, and the chief system of internal communication had consisted of numerous lines of stage-coaches and baggage-wagons, employing some thousands of fine horses. The first Cunard steamship had appeared in the harbor, and regular Atlantic steamship service had just begun. East Boston, which as late as 1833 had but one dwelling, had only recently been laid out in lots by the East Boston Company, char- tered in that year ; South Boston had less than five thousand inhabitants, distantly removed, save by toll- bridges, from Boston proper ; and the narrow penin- sula on which Boston was crowded was reached from the neighboring places by only one free road, that over Roxbury Neck.
Of the aspect of the town at the beginning of the period from 1830 to 1840 a graphic picture was given in the interesting report of Edward J. Howard, secretary of the old Board of Trade for the year 1880, marking the two hundred and fiftieth anniver- sary of the settlement of the town. The area of the city had not been materially enlarged for a hundred years. Harrison avenue was then known as Front street (the name of Harrison was given it in 1841 in honor of General Harrison), and from Beach street to the old South Boston bridge was lined with wharves, where cargoes of wood, grain, and other commodities were landed and sold. There were but five houses between what is now Dover street and the Roxbury line. Lands east and west of Wash- ington street, and a portion of the Common, were utilized for the pasturing of cows; what is now Causeway street was an irregular and unbroken high- way. On Beacon hill were the residences of the
1 Begun in 1794 and opened to traffic in 1So3. It extended from Boston to the Merrimac at East Chelmsford, now Lowell, and water connection was farther made as far north as Concord, N.H. It con- tinued in operation until June, 1853.
1
1
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i
4
BOSTON OF TO-DAY.
newer aristocracy - along Beacon street, between the State House and Charles street, Hancock av- enue, Louisburg square, Mt. Vernon, Walnut, Chest- nut, Pinckney, Hancock, Temple, Bowdoin, and Somerset streets, on the western and southern slopes of the bill; the older aristocracy still clinging to their stately dwellings on Tremont; Winter, Summer, Franklin, Atkinson (now Congress), Federal, High, and Purchase streets, Otis place, and even Washing- ton square on Fort hill, which was described in a weekly newspaper of the time as "a very princely quarter." Dock square was then the business cen- tre of the town, the principal mercantile streets being Court, Cornhill, Washington, Hanover, Union, State, North and South Market streets, Merchants row, Chatham, Blackstone, Commercial, India, Broad, Central, Doane, Water, Congress, Kilby, and Milk streets, and Liberty square.
The hotels were few and primitive, with the single exception of the Exchange Coffee House, at the corner of State and Congress streets, built on the site of the .greater and grander one burned on the -night of the 3d of November, 1818,1 where business men gathered on all public occasions ; but solid comfort and good cheer were ever to be found within their hospitable walls. The Eastern Stage House in Ann (now North) street, with its porte cochère, was the most venerable. Then there were the Earles' Coffee House on Hanover street, where the American House now is, through whose arched por- tals the Albany stage started once a week; the Lamb Tavern on Washington street, where the Adams House now stands, and the Lion next, its site now covered by the Bijou Theatre ; the old Marlboro,,on Washington, between Winter and Bromfield streets,
1 The original Exchange Coffee House, built in ISOS, was a tre- mendous affair for its day, and a costly speculation for those who en- gaged in it. More than $500,000 were sunk in the enterprise. It was a building of seven stories, covering an area of nearly 13,000 feet. The front, on Congress street, having an arched doorway, was showily ornamented with six marble pilasters of Ionic order on a rustic base- ment, supporting an entablature with a Corinthian pediment. Another entrance, towards State street, was through an Ionic porch. Upon entering, one stood in a great interior area, in the form of a parallelo- gram, seventy by forty feet, extending eighty.three feet to the roof, and lighted by a dome a hundred feet in diameter. Around this area porticos extended, each consisting of twenty columns which reached from the ground floor to the roof, and supported galleries leading to the rooms of the hotel. The principal floor was intended for an Ex- change, but it was not used by the merchants, as they preferred to meet on 'Change - in the customary way - in the street. On this floor was the coffee-room, bar, and reading-room. The great dining-room, with tables for three hundred persons, was on the second floor. An arched bal !- room, finished in the Corinthian order, extended through the third and fourth floors; and a masonic hall was on the side of the fifth and sixth floors. Some famous dinners were given in the big dining- room, and the great personages who visited the town made the Coffee House their headquarters. Here Captain Hull stopped when at this port during the War of 1S12; the news of the peace was celebrated by a great dinner here, at which Harrison Gray Otis presided, on Wash- ington's Birthday in IS15; and when President Monroe visited Boston in 1817 he was entertained here at a banquet of great splendor.
with its painted sign of "St. George and the Dragon ; " the Bromfield House on Bromfield street ; the Mansion House and the Commercial Coffee House on Milk street ; the Bite Tavern on Faneuil Hall square ; and the old Hancock Tavern near by on Corn court.
It was between the years 1820 and 1840 that the town enjoyed its greatest prosperity in foreign and domestic commerce, leading all its rivals in the ex- tent and richness of its trade. Then great fortunes were made by the merchants and shippers engaged especially in the China and East India trade, the spa- cious and secure harbor sparkled with shipping from the great ports of the world, and the wharves were crowded with vessels discharging and receiving car- goes. The principal wharves, lined with substan- tial warehouses, Long, Central, and India, were owned by corporations; and so extensive were the shipping interests at the port during this period and for some years after, that wharf property was the most remunerative real-estate property in Boston, several wharves netting an annual income of from $20,000 to $60,000.
The old methods of doing business contrasted strangely with those of to-day, for the merchant had his counting-room in his warehouse and per- sonally superintended the sale of his goods, with the quality and value of which he was supposed to be most familiar. Merchandise brokers were scarcely known then, for with their conservative ideas the solid men of the Boston of that time held fast to the secrets of their trade. Their counting- rooms bore no trace of the showiness and splendor which mark the business offices of the merchants of to-day. There were no carpets, steam heat, bric-a-brac, luxuriously upholstered chairs and roll- top desks in those old-time counting-rooms, nothing but the severely plain furniture and fittings required for the actual transaction of business. " And yet," says Howard, " there was a mercantile aristocracy in those days. . . We had merchant princes then. There were Perkins, Lyman, the Appletons, the Grays, the Lawrences, the Cunninghams, the Joys, Boardmans, Bryant, and Sturgis, the Hoopers, and a host from Marblehead, Salem, Gloucester, and Newburyport, who came to the front with their names and their checks when difficulties shadowed the metropolis."
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