USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Old Boston Town, early in this century > Part 1
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org.
Gc 974.402 B65hal 1452904
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01105 8986
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/oldbostontownear00hale
PARKER H. KEMBLE
Old
Bofton Town,
Early in this Century ;
By an 1801-er. J. W. Hale
[Copyright secured by the Author in 1880.]
Printed by Gro. F. NESBITT & Co., of New York, for the Author.
Gc 974.402 B65 hal
For Bill of Fare, see infide page.
CONTENTS.
(PARTIAL EXHIBIT.)
Going it, while young, to school.
Fort Hill, and who lived there.
Harris' Folly. Blind Asylum.
Col. Perkins.
Dr. S. G. Howe. 1452904
Robt. Treat Paine.
Only One Restaurant in Boston, in 1805.
Julien's in Milk Street.
Bill Fenno's. School Houses. Old Dr. Warren.
Cataract Engine.
Extinguisher Engine.
Cape Cod Merchants. New York Packets.
Faneuil Hall Market.
Military Companies-their Armories and Officers.
Old Mill and Mill Pond.
Causeway. Holbrook's Oyster Boats. Fish Street, Back Street, Middle Street, and other outlandish places. Old Merchants.
" Old Ironsides." Chowder at Noddles' Island.
Doyle's Museum and its successors.
1
Bridges and Ferries.
Ancient style of putting out fires. Washington Garden. "Forty Associates " and their works. Granary. Frog Pond.
Roebuck Tavern.
School Houses, Masters and Ushers.
Battle of the Chesapeake and Shannon.
Original New England Guards.
Rifle Rangers.
Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company.
Newspapers, Editors, Publishers, Printers and Stationers. Squantum.
Sea Serpent, (nothing about " What I Know").
Hanging Pirates on Roxbury Flats. Old Exchange Coffee House. Province House and Other Taverns Meeting Houses and Ministers-and only one Catholic Church. Prison Ship in 1813. Commodore Hull and Captain Dacres.
Old Boston and other Theatres.
George Frederick Cooke, Tom Cooper, etc. Stage Drivers and Servant Girls.
How not to make Sailors.
Why Mayor Shurtleff was not Killed when he was a Boy. Something about Hats, Aristocracy, Old Clothes, Banking and Roy- alty, and "other articles too numerous to mention."
To my Readers (if any) :
The following letters were written in 1880, and it was thought would be printed about the time of the Great Jam- boree, celebrating the 250th anniversary of the settlement of Boston.
But they were not published, because, well, because they were not, that's all.
Hoping that the contents may afford to many a pleasant half hour's reading,
I remain, in good health, Yours very truly, A BOSTON BOY OF 1801.
LETTERS ABOUT OLD BOSTON TOWN,
EARLY IN THIS CENTURY.
By an 1801er.
(Copyright secured by Author, September, 1880.)
OUT-OF-TOWN, July, 1880. My young friend :
It is quite possible that at times my dates may get somewhat mixed, as I have never seen Shurt- leff's History of Boston, nor that of any other person ; have no memoranda to assist me, and am obliged to rely exclusively upon my memory for all I may indite. And it is no trifle for a fellow to force his hind sight back seventy of seventy-five years; if you think otherwise, just try it. Hope you will have a chance.
I have no very distinct recollection of any facts prior to 1805. At that time was sent to school to Miss Betsey Holland, daughter of Captain John Holland, who lived in Oliver street, some hundred and fifty feet from Milk street. It is impossible to tell what school books were inflicted upon me, but it is well remembered that I became quite an ex-
8
pert at hemming crash towels. Opposite to Cap- tain Holland was a large double house-one of the finest then in town. One-half was occupied by Isaac Winstow, a Long Wharf merchant, the other by Alexander Young, one of the proprietors of the Palladium newspaper, and father of the late Rev. Dr. Alex. Young.
Fort Hill was then beginning to be a fashionable place of residence, and many fine three or four story brick houses were being erected there. Among the residents were Zebedee Cook, a merchant and most elegant gentleman, and John Brooks, husband of Mrs. Mary A. Brooks, the poet, (Maria del Occidente). Their houses were on the north side of the circle, and were situated on the opposite corners of Hamilton street. Somebody told me there wasn't any Fort Hill now ; well, there must have been several cart loads of dirt to carry away.
Not on Fort Hill, but at the junction of High street, and the head of Pearl street, there was built, in the first decade of the present century, the largest private residence probably then in Boston. It had a dome almost rivalling that on the State House. It was always called Harris' folly. Why it was thusly spoken of, cannot say ; but suppose his bank account did not hold out as long as he expected when the building was commenced. Re- member him distinctly, as a fine, portly, aristocratic looking gentleman, who was then, or before, a ship chandler on Purchase street. One of his sons was, several years afterwards, United States Marshal for Massachusetts.
9
Some of the finest old mansions in town were then in Pearl street. They were back from the street some seventy or eighty feet, with old chestnut trees and gardens in front, and occupied by some of Boston's best townsmen. Remember the names of none of the residents, except that of my kinsman, Gen. James Lovell, surveyor of the port.
But the iron heel of Commerce has long since crushed out these old homes, and many others in the old town and their sites, are they not marked by monumental tombstones of Quincy granite ?
Not far from seventy-five years since, Col Thomas H. Perkins built a fine modern residence in Pearl street, in which his family resided several years. He afterwards made a gift of it as the first Asylum for the Blind, under the management of Dr. Samuel G. Howe. About the same time an- other elegant mansion of brick was constructed for and occupied by a Mr. Pratt, a wealthy merchant of the town.
At the corner of Federal and Milk streets was the old Mansion of Robert Treat Paine, with fine outlying grounds. And, nearly opposite, corner Milk and Congress streets, was an old resi- dence, which was occupied by Julien, a French cook, and was then the only place in town where a party of bon-vivants could obtain a first-class dinner.
In 1805 there was but a single commercial estab- lishment on Milk street, from the Old South to the water. This one was in a small wooden building then called a " ten-footer." This shanty was nearly
IO
opposite to Oliver street, and was the only build- ing on a triangular piece of ground called Liberty Square. The remainder of the lot was generally occupied by dilapidated trucks and wagons, old boxes, barrels, and rubbish generally.
The above mercantile concern was kept by a venerable old lady called Aunty Spaulding, whose stock in trade consisted of needles, pins, tape, marbles, tops, molasses candy, green apples, and other like necessities for small children; at any rate, such condiments as school children always delight in. It is very likely that for every cent I spent with Aunty Spaulding, it cost my parents a dollar, for the benefit of good Dr. John Warren, then our domestic physician. By the way, our Dr. Warren was at least the great grandfather of the present race of Drs. Warren. He lived in a fine house in School street, two houses below Master Snelling's school-house. The house and its extensive yard and garden were afterward oc- cupied by Thos. Niles as an extensive livery stable. Not the house.
At the corner of Milk and Batterymarch streets was an old wooden building occupied by Cotton & Marston, "house, ship and sign painters." Sometime afterwards, Mr. Cotton sold his interest to his partner, and established himself as a book- seller, I think, at the corner of Marlboro and Franklin streets; being the founder of the publish- ing house bearing his name.
Next to Cotton's paint shop was another small wooden building, occupied by Nath. Brewer,
II
glazier ; and next to that was a three-story wooden house, in which my father lived, and in which I complimented the town of Boston, by allowing myself to be born in 1801. Several years ago the parlor of our old house was Hamblin's Oyster Saloon, and the room overhead, in which I first saw daylight, was a carpenter's shop. By-the-way, this Hamblin was the father of the brave General Hamblin, of the war of the rebellion, who died four or five years ago, a Seventh Regiment man.
On the opposite side of Batterymarch street, at the corner where Odiorne's nail store was built, there was a one-story wooden building standing on spiles, and the water coming under it at high tides ; over the big double door of this building was the sign "Cataract Engine ;" when the dock was filled up, the old Cataract House was removed to Milk street, nearly opposite to Pearl street. Imme- diately next to the old engine house were ways for building or repairing small vessels-don't remem- ber which-but I do recollect that about 1805 there was a vessel on the ways, her bowsprit sticking out nearly across Batterymarch street, and almost reaching my mother's bedroom windows. From there, running towards the bend of that street, at Hamilton street, were lots of spars afloat, caulk- er's stages, &c., and standing over the water at the head of about what is now the west side of India street, was my father's sail loft, which was afterwards burned. The end of Batterymarch street was called Tilden's Wharf.
12
Some two years afterwards when all this dock property had been filled up, and Broad and India streets had been built, (1806 and 1807), the foot- way from Long Wharf to India street was a wooden bridge about four feet wide, with a wooden railing. It was here that the New York packet schooners made their headquarters. They all hailed from some place on Cape Cod, and the number of Halletts, Bearses, Scudders, Bakers, Crockers, Nickinses, Chases, and most of the other names in the Cape Cod directory was very great, who used to congregate by the score in the stores on India street. My impression is that the old foot bridge was doing duty in 1825, perhaps later. At low tides people would have to stoop to enable them to pass under the bowsprits of the schooners.
Before Quincy market was built, the only market house in town was in old Faneuil Hall. Boylston market was then non est. Almost any morning might be seen Col. Thos. H. Perkins, Harrison Gray Otis, William (Billy) Gray, Ben. Bussey, Peter C. Brooks, Israel Thorndike and other wealthy towns folk, trudging homeward for their eight o'clock breakfast, with their market baskets containing their one o'clock dinner. Per- haps you can now discover your present million- aires doing the same thing. " If so, make a note on't" and let me know per telephone ? No flowers.
The dealers in the market house occupied the whole of the first floor of Faneuil Hall, and they
I3
used the cellars for the storage of salted meats, fish, and other barreled stuff The large room on the floor above was never used except for political meetings and big dinners. The upper floor con- tained all the armories which were then required for the military companies of the town. It seems as if I can almost recollect the location of each armory nearly 70 years ago. On the left of the entrance was the armory of the Winslow Blues ; (isn't Simpson, their old fifer, still buzzing around ?) then the Boston Light Infantry, Capt. Henry Sargent ; next the Independent Fusileers, and in the upper corner, the Soul of Soldiery, composed of the non-commissioned officers of militia companies. On the right was the Washington Light Infantry, composed of Democrats, next the New England Guards (when first organized) then armorers' rooms; Ancient and Honorables and the Cadets in the upper right hand corner. The latter was commanded by Col. Thos. F. Apthorp, a most soldierly looking gentleman. When the Rifle Rangers first started, that corps also had an armory here. There were also two artillery com- panies in town seventy years ago; one had its “ gun house " at the bottom of the Common, the other on Fort Hill.
Will write something more about sogering when an opportunity offers. Till when, yours truly,
OXYGEN- AIRIAN.
14
OUT-OF-TOWN, July, 1880.
My young friend :
You will please bear in mind that I have not lived in Boston for the last forty-five years, and during those years have not slept in your town a dozen times. Hence the names of many of the streets are entirely unknown to me, for at the time I have been writing about, and propose to con- tinue to do so, the town of Boston was not as large by one hundred acres, as the Central Park in New York. I am told that by filling in the Mill Pond, Back Bay, and other places, Boston is now at least 350 acres larger than the New York park. So you must not criticize my geography too closely, nor my dates, for as you were told before, I have nothing but my memory to guide me. My nurse is now living in Boston, bright as a dollar. She is several years my senior, but if I had her memory I could indite more interesting letters.
About where the western entrance of Quincy Market now is, there used to be lying in dock (say in 1810), two old hulks, which were roofed over, and from which vessels the inhabitants obtained their chief supply of oysters. The oyster boats used to sail up the harbor to these hulks, and de- posit their cargoes, from whence they were dis. tributed to the smaller dealers. You got on board over a narrow foot-bridge, and several small tables were standing ready, with a tin pepper and salt box thereon, and wayfarers would be accommo-
I5
dated with a dozen raw on the shell, and a two tined steel fork to pick them up with. But Father Holbrook never would allow his customers to " spile his 'isters" with lemon juice, or any such trash. "Nothing but salt and pepper onto this boat," he used to say.
In the immediate neighborhood of these oyster boats, there was a narrow, crooked lane leading into Ann street. It was hardly wide enough for two vehicles to pass each other, and had no side- walks nor any name that can be now recollected. Perhaps it has since been widened, straightened and christened. In a corner or curve of this lane was an old tavern called the Roebuck, not a very respectable place of resort seventy years ago. About that time a murder was committed in this tavern by some Danish or Swedish sailors. While writing, the names of two of them occur to me, John P. Rog and Nils Peterson. These men and two others were hanged at the same time on the left hand side of Roxbury Neck, a little beyond the road leading to South Boston bridge. I don't recollect any particulars about the murder, but remember at the hanging there were people selling " pairs of verses" about the whole affair. Only two lines of these " verses" stick to me :
"And, oh, the cruel murderers ! it was a dreadful sin, The one he took a loggerhead, another a rolling pin."
About seventy years ago two pirates were sen- tenced to be hung at South Boston. Sam Tully was hung, his companion was reprieved on the
16
gallows. His name was Dalton, and he was after- wards a Baptist or Methodist preacher.
What is now North street, was, in 1805, called Fore street, afterwards changed to Ann street, as far down as North Square, thence to its termina- tion, it was Fish street. Its original name of Fore street was probably adopted because it was the marginal street, the water from the harbor coming up at high tides to within one hundred feet of Fore street, as the writer can testify, having been in swimming at least hundreds of times within forty yards of No. 45 Ann street. Back street was so called for a similar reason, as the water of Mill Pond formerly came up to the yards of the houses on Back Street. The Baptist Meeting houses of Doctors Baldwin and Stillman were situated on this street for the convenience of having the baptistry over the water. Have seen several persons baptized in Mill Pond. Middle street was between Fore and Back streets. These three streets were the only direct thoroughfares from the extreme north end to the other parts of the town.
Many sailor boarding houses were situated in North Square and Fish street; hence Ann street was largely filled with slop-shops, as sailors' cloth- ing stores were called, with cheap hat stores and small wares for seamen's use. The centre of the hardware trade was in Dock Square and in adjoin- ing Union street. There were John Odin, Stephen Fairbanks, Homes & Homer, B. B. Osgood. Henry Loring, and others. An old playmate of the writer
17
was, in 1815, a boy in one of these stores, but he got tired of hammering on brass kettles, and for the last forty years has supplied your folks with a better class of music.
In the latter part of the past century, there was a shipyard near Battery Wharf. It was called Hartt's Yard. At this yard the old frigate Consti- tution was built, and the father of this deponent, being a nautical tailor, cut, fitted and made the first suit (of sails) that Old Ironsides ever wore. We had no navy yards then, and all work for Gov- ernment was done by private hands.
Seventy years ago, it was a frequent practice of schoolboys to spend their Saturday afternoons on an island in the harbor. We provided ourselves with a pot, frying pan, and other things requisite for a chowder and a fry, and taking a boat at Win- nisimit Ferry, would pull to the island, land our traps, then go and catch some fish, and return to the island and prepare the festival. Drift wood along shore furnished fuel, and after our sumptu- ous repast, we would have a good swim, there not being a house or resident on the island (except a man who tended a flock of sheep), and then we would pull our boat for home. If you look at that island now, you will see East Boston.
Seventy-five years ago, the only bridges leading to and from Boston, were Charlestown Bridge and Cambridge Bridge, leading to Old Cambridge. Cragie's Bridge, to Cambridgeport, was built some few years after wards, and Warren Bridge and the Milldam still later. Roxbury Neck was
18
the only land connecting the town with the main- land, and many times has the writer hereof waded across Roxbury Neck, when the tide had risen ten or twelve inches over the road.
At this time, Cornhill commenced at the Old South, and extended to Dock Square. From the Old South to Summer and Winter streets, it was Marlborough street; thence to Boylston street, it was Newberry street ; continuing up it was Orange street for half a mile, then Washington street to Roxbury street and the line. It is much more convenient to call it Washington street, right straight along.
So with Tremont street. That name went from Court street to Park street ; thence it was Com- mon street up to Boylston street ; thence Pleasant Street till it twisted round into Orange street. On the south side of Charles street, at foot of the Common, were four ropewalks, standing on spiles; they were burned down. The tide used to flow over Charles street into the lower part of the Common, and the grass growing in the swamp there was regular sedge, or salt water grass.
Yours truly,
OXYGEN-AIRIAN.
19
OUT-OF-TOWN, Fuly, 1880.
My young friend :
Seventy-five years ago, there was a large, old fashioned brick building, standing on the corner of Milk and Oliver streets. It was occupied by Mr. Doyle, an artist of much ability, and very scientific. He had quite a fine collection of curios- ities, and much wax-work of his own skill. His place was called either Doyle's Museum, or the Boston Museum. It was partially or wholly de- stroyed by fire, between 1806 and 1810; and at that fire, a boy named Will Homer, fell out of a window and was killed. He was a twin of James L. Homer, afterwards of the Boston Gazette.
Mr. Doyle afterwards had his museum in a large three-story building, between the jail and the school house in School street. The front of the building was about on a line with the east wall of the Stone Chapel burying ground. The entrance was through a lane running alongside the north wall from Tremont street. Don't remember whether Doyle died, or sold out ; but his curiosi- ties were removed to Scollay's building, and the New England Museum was there opened by Mr. Greenwood. He was a dentist, formerly lived in Sudbury street, and was father of Rev. Dr. Greenwood, successor to Dr. James Freeman minister of the Stone Chapel. Doyle had a daughter Margaret, whose beautiful miniatures on ivory may be found in many of the old Boston families.
20
In course of time, Greenwood sold his concern to David and Moses Kimball, who then established the Boston Museum in Tremont street. The rear of it is not a hundred feet from Doyle's old place.
Writing of fires, reminds me that boys in those days were an important element in the Volunteer Fire Department. It was by law, decreed that every house-keeper should have in a convenient and conspicuous place, two leathern fire-buckets, with his name painted thereon. The most " conv. and conspic." place would be the front entry ; hence, on entering the front door of a residence, rich or poor, the first things that struck the eye, were the fire buckets. Each bucket contained a long canvas bag, suitable for removing clothing, books and small valuables, and also a bed-key, for unscrewing bedsteads.
It was the duty of the householder, on hearing the ringing of the fire bells, to carry his buckets to the place of the fire. Two lines would then be formed from each engine to the nearest pumps. The men and big boys would pass the full buckets to the engine, and the "young 'uns," like me, pass up the empty buckets to the pump. Oh, how my ambitious little heart used to beat at the thought that some day or other I should take my place in the full bucket line ! After a fire was extinguished, the buckets would be ranged alongside the nearest fences, and their owners would take them home, and polish them off to be ready for the next alarm.
Excuse me, my friend, for here indulging in a little personal feeling. My first love was the Old
21
Cataract, and I stuck to her till I was nine years old, when my father moved " down to the North-end." Then my affections were transferred to the little Extinguisher, about the size of a lawn sprinkler of the present day. She was housed on the draw- bridge over Mill Creek, in Ann street. But she would throw water! It went up like a skyrocket. In her service I was promoted to the full-bucket line, when I was twelve years old. Happy days ! Vale.
OXYGEN-AIRIAN.
OUT-OF-TOWN, Fuly, 1880.
My young friend :
With the thermometer at 95º, you can hardly expect me to remember the date when certain capitalists of Boston formed what would now be called a syndicate, but which they called " The Forty Associates." Some wicked people (who probably couldn't get into the ring) called them The Forty-something else. The object of the Association was the purchase and improvement of real estate. Its managing man was a shrewd, smart, lively little person, Amos Cotting. The property between Court street and (old) Cornhill was pur- chased, and a wide street cut through, from Scol- lay's Building leading to Dock Square. It was first called Market street, but after Quincy Market was built, and a street alongside of it was chris- tened North Market street, the name of the former was changed to New Cornhill. Is that its name now ?
22
The buildings on each side were very substan- tial, uniformly four stories, brick. The only one among the first occupants, whose name is now re- membered by me, was James A. Dickson, formerly the comedian, Dickenson, of the Federal Street Theatre. He started an elegant music store on New Cornhill, at the corner of Dorset's Alley. The other stores were soon filled up, principally by dealers in dry goods and furniture. The Asso- ciation made several other improvements, par- ticulars of which are forgotten.
Pemberton's Hill was, doubtless, a part of Bea- con Hill. Why called Pemberton, probably some of the historians of Boston have told. At the cor- ner of Tremont street, there was a princely man- sion, owned by Gardiner Greene. The grounds must have occupied several acres, extending to Howard street, and I don't know how far up the hill. The owner was very liberal in allowing visit- ors to look over the grounds, graperies, green- houses, &c., &c. If I am not mistaken, Lord Lynd- hurst, and Copley, the great painter, were born here.
On Tremont street, between Greene's place and Beacon street, were three or four splendid resi- dences, which were on the slope of the hill, set back one hundred feet from the street, with fine gardens and lawns in front. Only remember the name of one resident ; it was Lieut-Gov. William Phillips, under Gov. Caleb Strong. He was also one of the deacons of the Old South His house was opposite the Stone Chapel burying ground.
23
Common street commenced at Park street, and terminated at Boylston street; then it was Pleas- ant street till it reached Orange street. Opposite the Common, beginning at Winter street, was a long row of buildings called Collonade Row. Nearly opposite Park Street Church, was a large family mansion, with extensive grounds. This was, about seventy years ago, converted into a place of amusement, and called Washington Garden. Open- air concerts, ice cream, lemonade (with sticks), and flirtations were the chief amusements.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.