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OLD -TIME FAIRHAVEN
Gc 974.402 F16h v. 1. 1132084
M. L. 7 10 -
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
Charles a. Harris To my friend
Francis Q. Taber
May 29, 1953,
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01115 2284
(Bristol Co.)
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
0. 0 55. .
. Erstwhile Eastern New Bedford
Volume 1
By
CHARLES A. HARRIS
With Illustrations
REYNOLDS PRINTING New Bedford, Massachusetts
1947
Copyright, 1947, By CHARLES A. HARRIS
1132084
To the memory of my mother ADELINE S. (DOWNS) HARRIS
-
Preface
For a decade, articles on "Old Fairhaven," the basis of this book, have appeared in "The Fairhaven Star." Research has brought to light considerable information pertaining to the days of our an- cestors. Hence, it seems to the writer of this compilation, that this material, with additions, should be preserved in a handy volume for ready reference. With this in mind, we humbly submit this book, entitled "OLD-TIME FAIRHAVEN," keeping before us the con- viction that this work should, at no distant day, be enlarged, and that a companion volume on "Modern Fairhaven," perhaps beginning with the year 1900, or thereabouts, should be forthcoming.
We regret that we have been forced to omit much material that seems of equal value to that presented, especially the biographies of our esteemed citizens. This omission has been necessary since it would require several books of this size to include all the essential, accumulated subject matter at our disposal.
We hereby express our indebtedness to the publishers of "The Fairhaven Star" and to "The Standard-Times" for permission to use material from their respective publications.
We are indebted, also, to the "Review & Herald Publishing Asso- ciation" for permission to use extracts from the "Autobiography of Elder Joseph Bates," and to Elbert Hubbard II, and his associates, for permission to use the "Life of Henry H. Rogers," written by Elbert Hubbard.
We wish, also, to acknowledge the valuable assistance of Mr. Bartholomew G. Akin who has furnished much material used in these pages.
Negatives, photographs and cuts were loaned for the illustrated pages of "A Brief History of the Town of Fairhaven," published in 1903, the committee of the Old Home Week Association expressing, in the preface of that book, their obligations to C. D. Waldron, Edward G. Spooner, Herbert D. Burke, Helen B. Copeland, Joseph G. Tirrell and Henry W. Taber for those loans. That was forty- four years ago.
In so far as we have been able to contact the representatives of these persons, we have, likewise, met with the same courteous per- mission to make use of these cuts incorporated within "OLD-TIME FAIRHAVEN."
C. A. H.
Fairhaven, October 1947.
Contents
Chapter
Page
I Fairhaven
9
II "Easterly New Bedford" Incorporated .
3I
III Shipbuilding 44 ·
IV Shipwrecks
· 55 V Old Stores
71
VI Early Industries
· 85
VII Fire Engines, Streets, Postmasters, Newspapers 94
VIII Fairhaven Branch Railroad
108
IX Meeting Houses and Churches . II6 .
X Schools, Public and Private · I3I
XI The Academy - The High School
· I44
XII Libraries and Related Institutions
· I52
XIII Inns, Hotels, Houses
16I ·
XIV Clubs, Societies, Associations
169 ·
XV
Fort Phoenix, Phoenix Hall, The Harbor, The Islands 180 .
XVI
Sports - Amusements - Parks
· 195
XVII
Means of Communication .
· 205
XVIII Bridges, Banks, Cemeteries · 215 XIX Akin, Bradford, Delanos, Keene, Rogers · 224
XX
Wars 236
XXI
Chronogical Happenings 246
XXII
Birthplace of Henry H. Rogers
· 255
XXIII Graduation and Prize Speaking
. 258
XXIV Celebrations .
265
XXV Jingles and Poetry . · 275
XXVI Alabama Claims . 279
XXVII Cantata, Music, Concert
. 280
XXVIII
Parties and Fairs . 283
XXIX The Old Town Clock and the Fire Alarm System 286 XXX
Rambles and Reminiscences .
. 289
·
·
.
List of Illustrations
Opposite Page
Friends' Meeting House - Bridge Street . 32
Four Corners and Historic Cannon .
.
33
Fort Phoenix - Eighty years ago · · 48
Old Academy Building - Original location
49
Phoenix Block in 1890
· 96
First High School Building - Opened in 1852 97
William P. Jenney House - Faced Union Street, Northwest Corner of Green Street
II2
Mill Pond or Herring River
. I60
Old Candle House - Head of Middle Street .
.
16I
Rogers School - Opened in 1885 ·
176 .
New Bedford and Fairhaven Bridge - Sixty years ago 177
Wharf scene in Whaling Days - Cargo landed · 224
Chimney of the Philip Taber House - Oxford Village
·
225
Old Wind Mill - Formerly near the Fort
·
240
Henry H. Rogers' Summer Residence - Erected in 1895 . .
272
Proctor House - First House in the Twenty-Acre Purchase . 273
The Beacon - Fort Phoenix . 288
Old Stone Schoolhouse - Built in 1828
. 289
CHAPTER I
Fairhaven
A Rapid Survey. - Fairhaven, lying on the eastern bank of the Acushnet river, with a population exceeding 12,000, sixty miles from our State Capital, is a place well worth visiting. The town has an excellent public school system; an attractive library ; sewerage and water systems ; good roads; churches to suit the fancies of all; excel- lent vantage points for viewing the river and Buzzards Bay, with the Elizabeth Islands in the distance; a weekly newspaper; a beautiful town building ; an efficient fire department with a modern fire alarm system ; a new post office building. with free delivery of mail; two bridges connecting the town with the mile-distant city of New Bed- ford which lies on the western bank of the river ; frequent bus service to that city and beyond ; taxicab companies ; parks for rest and recre- ation ; a Boys' Club ; a Girls' Club ; a Business Men's Association ; a town Improvement Association; The Colonial Club, a veritable historical society ; a National Bank; a Savings Bank; lodges, and a fully equipped police department.
This condition has not always existed. Let us go back a bit. The Mayflower came sailing into Plymouth harbor, having on board, among others, Francis Cooke and son John, the former having signed that notable compact while the ship was anchored off the town at the tip of Cape Cod.
Thirty-two years after the Mayflower landed, the Indian Chief Massasoit, and his son Wamsutta deeded to William Bradford and others, a large tract of land which included the present town of Fairhaven. John Cooke was one of the original grantees of this territory, the entire area of which was called Dartmouth. Son John took up his residence in Fairhaven about 1660, Oxford Village being the exact spot for the location which is the oldest part of the town excepting perhaps Sconticut Neck. He served as a deputy and a selectman and held many offices in his new homeland. He was a Baptist minister who, in October, a half century after the landing on Plymouth Rock, was fined ten shillings for allegedly breaking the Sabbath, said breach being travelling upon his circuit as a devout preacher.
This tract the Indians sold to the palefaces for a "mess of pot- tage," at least there was one iron pot in the transaction. The
10
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
barter bargain for this extensive tract which comprised the present town of Dartmouth, the city of New Bedford, the town of West- port, the town of Fairhaven and the town of Acushnet, consisted of a few yards of cloth, several mooseskins, axes, hoes, kettles and blank- ets; breeches to the number of fifteen pair, a coat, ten pounds of wampum, eight pair socks and as many pair of shoes, together with a gallon or two of firewater.
This large area, deeded to the white men, was incorporated in 1664 under the name of Dartmouth which included Westport, New Bedford, Fairhaven and Acushnet. In 1787 New Bedford, including Fairhaven and Acushnet, was set off from Dartmouth. In 1812 Fairhaven, including Acushnet, separated from New Bedford, and was incorporated on February 22d of that year. In 1860 Acushnet was set off from Fairhaven as a separate township.
Sconticut, the Indian word for Fair Haven, later spelled Fair- haven, was the summer camping ground for that branch of the Wam- panoag tribe. Because of the sparsely settled territory, instead of compact communities, this section was especially open to attacks by the Indians. This mode of living necessitated the erection of block houses or garrisons in case of Indian unrest, where the settlers might gather for united protection or resistance.
This part of the country was populated with Indians long before the white men came to these shores. In summer, the Red Men made regular excursions to Sconticut in search of shell-fish, and then re- turned to the ponds in the vicinity of Middleborough to take up their winter quarters. The last full-blooded native Indian, Martha Simons, who lived upon the Indian reservation near the end of Sconticut Neck, departed for the happy hunting grounds about ninety years ago.
During King Philip's War, Dartmouth was laid waste, and many whites perished. Most of the hostile Indians were exterminated. Local histories relate of the clashes with the English during the periods of the American Revolution and the War of 1812.
During the early days of Fairhaven and vicinity, farming was the principal occupation. Whale fishery can be listed as the voca- tion of the early inhabitants, for the acquisition of oil, of food, and later for the value of whalebone. This vicinity sought the whale be- fore the time of the American Revolution, the latter incident putting a temporary quietus on the whaling industry, continuing throughout the period of the war of 1812. With the pursuit of the whale, first on a small scale, shipbuilding became the important industry, be- ginning at Acushnet about 1780. Oxford Village, a part of Fair-
11
FAIRHAVEN
haven, was the site of the early shipyards and remained so until about 1800 when Fairhaven Village became the shipbuilding center.
Individuals and partnerships in this business were Abner Pease, Joshua Delano, Jethro Delano, Elias Terry, Reuben Fish, Fish & Delano, Fish & Huttlestone, Delano & Company and William G. Blackler. This takes us to about 1867 when manufacturing was well under way. Hundreds of vessels were launched from the Oxford and Fairhaven yards. As a concomitant to shipbuilding, whaling must be counted, and both Fairhaven and New Bedford were heavily engaged in hunting the monsters of the deep. The peak of the local whaling industry was attained in 1854-55 when a half hundred vessels were sailing from this port.
Prosperity, brought about by successful whaling voyages, made a busy community. Let us mention, for example, two successful voyages. The Niagara, of Fairhaven, after being out twelve months, arrived with 3,200 barrels of whale oil and 50,000 pounds of bone. A few years later, that is in May, 1856, the ship E. L. B. Jenney, of Fairhaven, arrived in port from a whaling voyage of fifty-six months, with 2,500 barrels of sperm oil worth $141,000.
The events of 1857, the date of one of our periodic panics, ruined financially hundreds and thousands of individuals throughout the Country, not sparing some of our own citizens. The banks closed, specie payment was suspended, insolvent notices were numerous, failures ensued, panic reigned, and the general outlook was gloomy. After the outbreak of the Civil War, all coins seemed to disappear from circulation. This lack of subsidiary coin's led to the issuance of tickets, due bills, and obligations issued by merchants, stores and cor- porations throughout the nation. By authority of Congress, postage stamps were used for change. These stuck together, and proved most inconvenient. Then came postal currency followed by fractional paper currency called "shinplasters," in five, ten, twenty-five and fifty-cent denominations. Fairhaven used this makeshift in order to facilitate trade. Before us lie two pieces of scrip in five-cent and fifty- cent denominations respectively, issued by the "Fairhaven Union Store." They are each two inches by four and a quarter. On the left end, reading from bottom to top, we see, "No. 71 Main Street." At the top, "Receivable at the Fairhaven Bank in sums of one dollar." At the bottom we read, "Redeemed at Store in Goods or in sums of One Dollar." In the central or main part, we see, "Cashier Fairhaven Bank pay to Bearer Five Cents." This was all under the date of
12
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
January 12, 1863. The fifty-cent denomination was dated Novem- ber 25, 1862.
Noah Stoddard, in the '50's was manager of the Fairhaven Union Grocery Store, later conducted by Herbert Damon and subsequently was purchased by Eldredge Bros., who conducted business there until they removed to Phoenix Block, which was in 1883. About 1856 Henry H. Rogers was clerk in the Fairhaven Union Store which, by the way, was located under Fountain Hall. From this store to the delivery wagon, Mr. Rogers, who became a multi-millionaire, carried many a bag of grain on his shoulder. At this time, Rowland Rogers, father of Henry, was the manager, it is said.
Order of Events. - These are approximately the order of events from the early days. The bridgeless, ferryless Acushnet river, flow- ing between the western and eastern banks of New Bedford, pre- sented problems of transit. One could, to be sure, row or sail, ac- cording to his preference, from one side to the other. Then the con- struction of the bridge which took place when both sides of the river were still New Bedford, permitted us to cross on foot or in a vehicle. Ten years after the bridge was open to traffic, the town of Fair- haven was incorporated. Twenty years later a public ferry com- pany was formed. Then came the era of private hacks, and car- riages which were obtainable for a consideration in order to go from one municipality to the other. This private means of trans- portation gave way to a public conveyance - the omnibus line which served us for a score of years coming into service twenty years after the ferryboat began operation. After the lapse of another twenty years the omnibus was pushed aside by the advent of the street cars drawn by horses and travelling on rails. These in time, in another twenty years, were outmoded by cars that were operated by elec- tricity, and finally we went back to the OMNIBUS, although the word was butchered from a trisyllabic noun to a monosyllable - "BUS." In the midst of all these changes the velocipede and the bicycle (high and low) had their day.
Yes, horse-cars and electric cars have vanished from the streets of Fairhaven. The ferryboat is a thing of the past. Even the omnibus with a driver of horses has deserted us, or rather has been trans- formed into a 'BUS with an operator who SITS while he works. Compare him with the horse-car driver who held the reins, guided the horses, shifted his steeds from one end of the car to the other at the termini of the routes, made change for passengers, saw to it that all passengers paid their fares, worked longer hours, and, last but
13
FAIRHAVEN
not least, STOOD, facing the rainy, snowy, blowy, frigid weather, without any vestibule, without any heat. This is the driver whom we saw wrapped in the skin of a polar bear, wearing mittens that looked like boxing gloves, earlaps above and arctics below. Now we can readily understand why it is that the 'BUS operator of today whistles at his work, and merrily chats with his passengers. May his luck continue. After the 'BUS, what?
Bridges and Transit. - The legislature authorized the construc- tion of a bridge across the Acushnet river, connecting New Bedford and Fairhaven, in the year 1796. It was opened to traffic in 1802, and, excepting interruptions, due to storms and necessary repairs, has continued to the present time, the old structure, however, being replaced by a new one completed in 1902, just a century after the completion of the first span.
This bridge was a toll bridge and remained such for nearly three quarters of a century. In the course of that time, the bridge was partially swept away thrice, namely in 1807, again in 1815 and third- ly in 1869. After final repairs, it became a free bridge in 1870.
In March, 1832, Luther Wilson operated the "New Bedford and Fairhaven Hourly Carriage." A regular hack stand was adver- tised in New Bedford, under the date of June 19, 1838, with service from 7 A. M. to 9 P. M. In 1844 an advertisement headed "Fair- haven Carriage Notice" read that conveyance could be had from the town of New Bedford to Fairhaven (New Bedford became a city in 1847).
In 1848 R. A. Dunham advertised "Fairhaven Accommodation Carriage to New Bedford." Public transportation by omnibus was advertised by R. A. Dunham & Co. on November, 8, 1852, and this means of transportation continued across the bridge until the advent of the horse cars in 1872. Mr. George D. Cowen, tells the following : "We were very accommodating to the patrons. I remember once as I was going down Main street on my way to New Bedford, one of my patrons asked me to hold up and wait until she took her pies out of the oven."
In January, 1889, it was announced that a petition to the legis- lature was to be circulated asking for a charter to build a bridge from the foot of Coggeshall street, New Bedford, to Oxford Village, near the town farm, west of North Main street. On Monday, Sep- tember 22, 1890, the Coggeshall street bridge was open to travel, although it was not wholly completed.
14
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
Ferryboats. - Communication between the city of New Bed- ford and the town of Fairhaven, separated by the mile-wide river, was at first by means of row and sail boats which have never been outmoded. In 1832, fifteen years before New Bedford became a city, a ferryboat company was incorporated. On Monday, May 6, 1833, the sloop boat "Helen" began running as a regular ferryboat between Fairhaven and New Bedford every morning at sunrise and continuing to run throughout the day until sundown. Fare, six and a quarter cents.
The first steam ferryboat between these two places was the "Acushnet," which was launched on May 24, 1833, from the ship- yard of Fish & Delano, in Fairhaven. The next ferryboat was the "Fairhaven" which began her trips on June 23, 1836, leaving Fair- haven at 4:30 A. M. The Fairhaven starting point was at the wharf at the foot of Center street until the ferry was in possession of the Railroad Company, which began operation in 1854, when the ferry was transferred to the railroad pier. The ferry was discontinued in 1873, soon after the introduction into this community of the horse cars, but was restored in February, 1896, being replaced in February 1921, by the "Winifred," that made her last trip on March 30, 1929.
Fairhaven's Log Cabin. - Fairhaven had a genuine log cabin. Its construction came about in this way. In the political campaign of 1840, the Whigs selected as their candidate William Henry Harri- son with John Tyler as his running mate. The slogan was "Tippe- canoe and Tyler, too." The Democrats charged that Harrison longed for nothing but a log cabin and a jug of hard cider, whereupon the Whigs adopted the log cabin as their campaign symbol.
The Whigs engaged Roland Fish to erect the Log Cabin at the . head of Union street near the intersection of Laurel street. The Cabin was built of round logs, notched at the ends, so that they would fit closely together. All through the campaign this cabin served as the general headquarters.
The dedication of the Fairhaven Log Cabin took place at the scheduled time, the 8th of June, and added to the already exhibited wave of patriotic enthusiasm that had taken possession of the entire land. The weather indications, although inauspicious, did not deter more than 1,500 persons, including several from the town on the west bank of the Acushnet which then had a population of 12,000, from joining in the ceremony.
The Whigs from New Bedford, in a procession with four abreast, passed through the principal streets of their town, with banners
15
FAIRHAVEN
"Tip & Ty," and scores of others. They then crossed the bridge to Fairhaven. A more numerous, impressive and dignified procession was never before witnessed in the town. Upon arrival on this side of the river, they were met by a procession of Whigs of Fairhaven and also from the Head-of-the-River (Acushnet territory being Fair- haven). These local marchers escorted the visitors to the Log Cabin. In the procession was an immense wagon drawn by four magnificent horses, decorated with evergreen and surmounted by a flag upon which was inscribed "The Acushnet Delegation."
The Fairhaven Log Cabin was 60 by 30 feet, and the interior was in perfect accord with the exterior, from which floated banners and emblems for the occasion. Because of the large concourse of people, it was necessary to conduct the services of dedication in the open air. A huge bench was placed in front for the accommodation of the speakers. Levi Jenney, who was born in 1778 and died in 1849, presided as president of the Fairhaven Whig Association.
Great credit was due the Whigs of Fairhaven, who extended to all out-of-towners the greatest hospitality. Many came from Taun- ton. All agreed that the occasion was a festival long to be remem- bered. The spectators cheered, and the ladies waved their hand- kerchiefs, as the procession passed, homeward bound. The Log Cabin was open for the reception of ladies who wished to visit it, during the week, at or after 3 o'clock in the afternoon of each day, beginning June 15, 1840.
Mr. Ebenezer Akin, Jr., of Fairhaven, born in 1817, cast his . first vote in the Log Cabin and Hard Cider Campaign.
Riverside Cemetery. - Riverside Cemetery was consecrated on Sunday, July 7, 1850, at 5:30 P. M., with appropriate exercises. This tract had been purchased by Warren Delano, in 1849, and pre- sented to the town. An estimated number of 1,500 persons assem- bled for the program, held at the east portion of the grounds, over- looking the river. The tract consisted of about 14 acres. In August, 1889, the Delanos purchased five acres of adjoining property for an enlargement of the cemetery, which was again enlarged on the north in 1905. Additional enlargements have been made since that date. The Delano tomb, in the extreme western section of the cemetery, was erected in 1859. The original tract with later acquisitions pre- sent an unusually attractive spot which the citizens appreciate. Here a soldiers' monument was erected in 1867.
The Fairhaven Branch Railroad. - In October, 1852, the sur- vey by which the first Fairhaven steam railroad was located, was
16
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
commenced. On the morning of Thursday, April 20, 1854, the cars ran through from Fairhaven to Mattapoisett, five miles distant, for the first time. The great event was celebrated by a ball at Matta- poisett. The last rail was laid, and the track completed on August 14, 1854. This branch extending from Fairhaven to Tremont, a distance of about fifteen miles, connecting with the Boston train at that point, had a life of passenger service of about three quarters of a century. It now exists for freight only.
Tramps - Lockup - Street Lighting. - The time arrived when the little town became lawless, too lawless for the comfort of the officials, so it was deemed necessary to consider means for the in- carceration of such characters. Whereupon the authorities, in March, 1857, began to stir up sentiment that resulted in establishing a lockup for the safekeeping of violators of the law. In the following year a wave of incendiarism swept through the town, so that in October of that year a night watch was established. Temporary quarters were secured in one of the church buildings.
This condition resulted in a vote of the town, in April, 1859, to establish a watch-house on Washington street, and it was completed in August of that year. In this building, still standing, hundreds, probably thousands, of tramps have passed the night. In the year 1884-1885 tramps to the number of 416 were lodged at this station house. So many infested the town, more than sixty-five years ago, that at the March town meeting, in 1877, it was voted that work, un- der the direction of the keeper of the lockup, be required of all tramps who made application for lodging.
On Spring street, near the corner of Main, before the era of stone-crushers, a stone breaking yard was located. Here, before breakfast, the tramp was required to crack a stipulated quantity of stone to be used upon the roads.
For nearly half a century after the incorporation of the town of Fairhaven, the streets lacked illumination except in cases where the householders placed, in front of their residences, some sort of lan- tern to aid the travellers in their peregrinations.
Soon after the watchmen began duty, in 1858, the lighting of the streets was a common topic of conversation, as the watchmen had experienced difficulty in navigating the thoroughfares of the town, they as well as the marauders, stumbling about in the darkness. This agitation resulted in an article in the warrant which read: "To see if the town will erect in the village of Fairhaven and on Main street, to the street running east and west past the dwelling house of Bar-
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