USA > Massachusetts > Bristol County > Fairhaven > Old-time Fairhaven; erstwhile Eastern New Bedford, Volume I > Part 18
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30
Well, here goes, you good, old, faithful umbrella, a friend in the heat of the day, a friend when the showers, and deluge, come. I let go, the umbrella turns somersaults, over and over and over. I watch it as it turns. I have managed to stop my momentum. I'm still as solid as the ice I stand on. I'm mesmerized. At last I see, off the lighthouse, mother's good, old, cambric, dollar umbrella. It stops as if to wave a farewell. There she goes, over the brink, sailing man- less, rudderless, but with high hopes of reaching some port - some- time. No doubt picked up by some New Bedford seafaring man, perhaps carried to some distant port from whence no traveler returns. Mother told me I did just right, and I was happy, so happy that she kissed me."
The correspondent was none other than Elbridge Franklin Bryant, known to many in Fairhaven.
Palmer's Island. - Looking out across the water, the islands below the bridge attract our attention. There was the "Furber House" on Palmer's Island, which was open to summer guests for a decade, beginning in 1856. This island, which took its name from William Palmer who was slain by the Indians in the King Philip's War period, had.its beautiful cedar trees. On this island was located one of the garrison houses of early days.
James Stubbs, father of Samuel Stubbs of the Harbinger, was keeper of the light at Cuttyhunk for a number of years, having been appointed in April, 1849, in place of W. W. Goss who resigned. On the first of May, 1854, James Stubbs took charge of the Mariners'
.
188
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
Home, in New Bedford, afterwards becoming keeper of the Palmer's Island light. Mr. Stubbs died suddenly on Monday night, October 7, 1862, and in November of that year, Mrs. Caroline Stubbs, his widow, was appointed keeper of the Palmer's Island light.
Crow Island. - There, belonging to Fairhaven, stands Crow Island which, a century ago, was the destination of all pleasure-bent parties. Here was a magnificient grove, affording shade in the hottest weather, and space for games and all sorts of recreation. Under the date of April 19, 1867, it was mentioned in the journals of the day, as follows: "CROW ISLAND. The primeval forests of this inter- esting suburban locality have been burned off today to convert the savage wilds into a playground for the boys of the State Reform School Ship, Massachusetts." It was in March of that year that Capt. John A. Hawes visited the School Ship and tendered to the officers the use of Crow Island as a playground for the boys.
Pope's Island. - Pope's Island, in our boyhood days, in ad- dition to its residences, had fringes of cedar trees outside the area reserved for the circus, the rings of which could be discerned from season to season, long before the spot was considered for business enterprise.
In early days, the island was one plantation from which crops were ferried to market, the shipment being made easier after the construction of the bridge.
Fish Island. - A Marine Railway was constructed on Fish Island in the summer of 1830. The Fish Island property, consisting of wharves, marine railway, dwelling houses, etc. was sold at auction on Thursday, September 18, 1851, nine lots and shop, for a total of $27,553.
Yes, Fish Island had its residences in early days. Under the date of Friday, March 24, 1876, we read : "The funeral of Elizabeth E., wife of the late Capt. Richard Delano, will take place at her late residence, Fish Island, Sunday, at 12 o'clock." Fancy, if you can, Fish Island with its growth of cedar trees, for it, at one time, boasted of such.
Marsh Island. - Marsh Island (Isle of Marsh), above the bridge, formerly a rocky, sightly bluff, now leveled and partly filled in, has little to commend itself.
West Island. - We have read and heard much recently about the land and housing development on West Island. This was Fair- haven's School District No. 17.
189
FORT PHOENIX, PHOENIX HALL, HARBOR, ISLANDS
In the book entitled "A Brief History of the Town of Fair- haven" we find that chapter IV was written by Cyrus D. Hunt, who stated : "It is said John Cooke had a great desire to possess islands." This seems to be true for, in 1669, nine years after he settled here, he purchased of the Indians "one whole island near the town, called 'Nokatay."
Mercy (Marcy) was a daughter of John Cooke and married Stephen West, after whom West Island was named. On March 6, 1731-1732 Marcy West et al. (Stephen West) conveyed to John West as follows :
"To all Christian people to whom these presents shall come, we, Stephen West and my wife Marcy West, of Dartmouth, in ye County of Bristol, within his Majesty's province of ye Massachusetts Bay, in New England, yeoman; send greetings and know ye that we, Stephen West and my wife Marcy West for and in consideration of ye love, good-will and affection which we have and do bear towards our loving son, John West, have given and granted and by these presents have fully, freely and clearly and absolutely give and grant to ye said John West, his heirs and assigns ye one-half of ye island called Nakatah which said island lies to ye eastward of Long Island and Sconticut Neck, so-called, in Dartmouth aforesaid, viz., the one- half of both upland and meadow, viz., salt marsh meadow, contained on said island, that is to say, ye northerly half of each to be divided off and taken from ye other part by an east and west line with ye house standing on ye northerly part of said island."
This was recorded October 17, 1765.
On March 6, 1730, Stephen West sold to his son, Stephen West, Jr., the southerly part of the island together with a way from Sandy Point to the southerly part of the island along the beach.
On the occasion of the Old Dartmouth Centennial Celebration, held on September 14, 1864, James B. Congdon composed a poem, the first line of which runs: "From Nacata to Coakset's shore." A foot-note is worded as follows :
"NACATA-generally known as West's Island, belonging to the town of Fairhaven. Many years ago John West gave by will one half of this island to trustees, who were to bestow the income upon the industrious and worthy poor. As but little income was derived from it, the property was sold. The New Bedford Monthly Meeting of Friends has the appointment of the trustees, and the fund is now a means of relief to many a poor but worthy person."
190
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
From Nacata to Coakset, that is, from West's Island to Westport, was the description of the old town of Dartmouth."
From a New Bedford paper issued years ago, we glean the fol- lowing :
"West Island was formerly the property of John West, who left it by will to help support the industrious poor of the town of New Bedford, which then included Fairhaven."
On Page 445 of "Bradford's History of Plymouth Plantation," he mentions "Nacata" in this wise: "to another place called the Acushnet river which entereth at ye western end of Nacata." The deed spells the word "Nakata."
The early maps of West Island show the location of two houses, one in the north, considerably inland, and one south of the central part near the west shore. The north property was marked on the map of 1855, "R. Anthony," and the south, "J. Taber." On the map of 1870, the north property is marked "J. West Estate,' the south still being that of "J. Taber."
In the south part of the island, entering at about Jacobs Neck, we note Bass Creek, extending nearly to the southern extremity of the island. Above Sandy Point on the west shore, is shown the lo- cation of the wharf from which a road leads to the southern part, in a curving, southeasterly direction. On the map are designated on the north, Cedar Point, North Cove and North Point; on the east, Pine Neck, Shallow Cove and Jacobs Neck (this should not be con- fused with Jacobs Neck on Sconticut Neck) ; on the south, Rocky Point ; on the west, Sandy Point, the wharf and Round Neck. Be- tween West Island and Sconticut Neck are three islands, viz., Long Island, Egg Island and Round Island. East of the entrance to Shal- low Cove there are or were two islets, namely, Gull Island and Brown Rock, and opposite Pine Neck we discern Pine Neck Ledge. The coast line visible from lower Sconticut Neck is nearly a straight line running in a southeasterly direction from Sandy Point to Rocky Point, whereas the shore line elsewhere is irregular. Such is the brief topography of West's Island.
A bridge and causeway were completed Friday, Nov. 22, 1946.
Cutter Hunk and Penny-Keys. - For a moment let us look outside Fairhaven from within. When we attempt to view the harbor and bay from the bridge, Crow Island seems to be in the way today as much as formerly; we found then that the ferryboat "Fair-
191
FORT PHOENIX, PHOENIX HALL, HARBOR, ISLANDS
haven" was ashore on that sandy islet on Tuesday, December 17, 1850. From Fort Phoenix, however, with view unobstructed, one can see, on a clear day, the Elizabeth Islands, remembered by us with the aid of the following :
"Cuttyhunk and Penikese, Nashawena, Pasque (nese), Great Naushon, Nonamessett, Uncatena and Wepecket."
The orthography of some of these have changed within a century and a quarter, for under the date of December 15, 1812, we find "Penikese" with a different spelling within the following advertise- ment : "AN OX FOUND. Found, on the shore, at the Island called PENNY-KEYS, on the 12th inst., a fat OX, which appeared to have been dead but a short time; supposed to have been lost from some vessel passing near. The owner may obtain him by applying to the subscriber, on said island and paying charges. (Signed) Silas Gifford."
Under the date of August 16, 1822, another spelling attracts our attention in a one-column, detailed description, emanating from the Custom House, New Bedford, headed : "Proposal for a Light House on CUTTER HUNK Island."
The Anderson School. - Undoubtedly hundreds in this vicinity know of Professor Louis Agassiz, known throughout America as the individual who introduced the laboratory method in Zoology. His first summer laboratory was established on the island of Peni- kese, only a few miles distant from the Fairhaven shore. Some de- tails were related by the Standard, as follows: "THE ANDERSON SCHOOL FOR NATURAL SCIENCE. John Anderson, the donor of Penikese Island to Prof. Agassiz, went down to the island today, April 16, 1873, in steamer Helen Augusta, with his wife, to prepare for the reception of the Professor, who, with Mrs. Agassiz, and Thomas Cary, Esq., Agassiz's brother-in-law, will be on the island next Monday, when the formal presentation will take place."
Under the date of April 18, 1873, we read : "LIBERAL. Mr. Anderson has given the stock on Penikese, valued at about $600, to Capt. F. H. Flanders, of schooner John Aldrich, who has had charge of the island the past winter. When the Helen Augusta took Mr. and Mrs. Anderson to the island this week, it was so rough that she could not touch at the wharf, and Capt. Flanders jumped overboard
192
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
where the water was up to his neck and waded ashore to assist in landing them."
"Prof. Louis Agassiz. of Cambridge, arrived in New Bedford, by Fairhaven railroad this morning ( Monday, April 21, 1873) on his way to Penikese where he is to receive the deed of the island from Mr. John Anderson today and will formally take possession for his School of Natural History. Soon after 11 o'clock the whole party embarked for Penikese in Steamer Helen Augusta."
"Steamer Helen Augusta with the Professor and party on board, arrived at Cuttyhunk harbor and anchored under the south side of Pune or Penikese at one o'clock, Monday, April 21, 1873." Two boats were in readiness to land the guests, and in half an hour all were on shore. The visitors were kindly greeted by Mr. and Mrs. Anderson. It was a singular fact that Prof. Agassiz had never seen the island nor Mr. Anderson until this time. The great natural- ist and his liberal friend were, as our readers have been informed, pleasantly known to each other in the way of correspondence, and they were thus prepared to be as familiar as brothers. A half hour was spent in looking over the island, most of the visitors going up to the highest hill. an elevation of perhaps a hundred feet. From this, the whole island of one hundred acres can be seen with the others of the Elizabeth group; also Gay Head and No Man's Land."
"All being assembled in the house, Hon. William Girod, Mr. Anderson's legal advisor, read the deed by which the island, build- ings and furniture are given to the school. The grantees named are Louis Agassiz, Alexander E. R. Agassiz (his son), Thomas G. Cary, Martin Brimmer, Theodore Lyman and their successors as trustees of a normal school for teachers and students of natural history. With the island and appurtenances Mr. Anderson gives two bonds of $25,000 each, New York City Central Park Addition fund of 1874. The deed appoints Prof. Agassiz President of the Board of Trustees and Director of the School with the sole authority to appoint teachers and lecturers and prescribe the course and methods of study; and Mr. Cary is appointed treasurer. Mr. Anderson reserves the right to reside on a promontory of some fifteen acres at the eastern ex- tremity of the island ; also the right to appoint an additional trustee, and the deed prescribes that five trustees shall always be residents of Massachusetts and one of New York City, etc."
"Prof. Agassiz made a brief reply, earnestly expressing his thanks for the munificent gift. Mr. Anderson regretted his inability
193
FORT PHOENIX, PHOENIX HALL, HARBOR, ISLANDS
to express his feelings. He could only say that it was one of the happiest moments of his life. (Great applause)."
"The party then proceeded to discuss a fine collation provided by the city authorities and which was superintended by George Pell, caterer." (One whole column was devoted to speeches, etc.) Peni- kese or Pune, as it is often called. is the smallest of the seven in- habited islands included in the town of Gosnold. Dukes County, the least populous town in the State, which had 99 inhabitants in 1870. The group is known as the Elizabeth Islands, and except Penikese, they form a chain extending southwestward from the southwest point of Cape Cod and dividing Buzzards Bay from Vineyard Sound. Penikese is situated just within the entrance of the Bay, and a mile south of it, across Cuttyhunk harbor, are the islands of Cuttyhunk, the outermost of the chain, and Nashawena. It is five miles south of Mishaum point on the main land of Dartmouth. and sixteen miles from New Bedford. the usual place of departure."
On the morning of Friday, April 25. 1873 the architect and con- tractor went to Penikese by sloop Comet to locate the building for the school to be established. Mr. Hessel arranged for the building of the necessary aquariums. It was finally decided to construct the building 25x120, the size of the lodging rooms to be 8x10, a bit larger than had been at first contemplated.
"Under the date of Thursday, May 22, 1873 we find: "THE ANDERSON SCHOOL. A yacht presented to Prof. Agassiz. The Boston Advertiser says the prospects of the Anderson School of Natural History, on Penikese Island. are daily improving. The applications are so numerous that one-third more names have al- ready been entered than could be accommodated. Mr. C. W. Gal- loupe, of Swampscott, has presented Prof. Agassiz, for the school, a superb yacht of eighty tons, fully equipped and ready for service, worth $20,000."
The frame and material for the building was taken to the island on Friday, June 6. 1873. Enrollment required another building the same size, two stories. The buildings were soon erected. We read. under the date of July 9. 1873 the following: "THE ANDER- SON SCHOOL AT PENIKESE. The Anderson School of natu- ral History took formal possession yesterday. Soon after landing. all were invited to the lecture room (formerly Mr. Anderson's barn) where the school was addressed by Prof. Agassiz in a plain and pleasant manner. He said the school was in a strange position, be-
194
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
ing most all strangers to each other." More than a column and a half was printed in the Evening Standard of Wednesday, July 9, 1873, about the opening of the school.
The school started auspiciously. Classes were held, lectures were delivered, experiments were made. The summer course came rapidly to an end. Under the date of August 19, 1873 we read that resolutions were passed by the students of that new institution, voic- ing their complete satisfaction with the undertaking, eulogizing Agas- siz, Anderson and their teachers for their contribution in making a success of the first summer of the Penikese school. Among the professors of note was Dr. Packard. Twenty years later, the writer had the experience of being a member of Professor Packard's classes in Anthropology and Zoology, at Brown University. A textbook of 722 pages on the latter subject, with Prof. Packard as author, is within range of our eyes at the time of this writing.
"THE ANDERSON SCHOOL. Architect Slack, George F. Parlow and others, are at Penikese today (Thursday, November 6, 1875) for the purpose of taking a picture of the Anderson School buildings from which a photolithograph is to be made which will accompany the forthcoming first annual report of the school."
Prof. Agassiz organized and conducted this Penikese school which he called "The Anderson School of Natural History" for one season, the summer of 1873. He died on December 14th of that year. aged 66. As a part of the celebration of Agassiz's fiftieth birthday, May 28, 1857, Longfellow wrote a poem, entitled. "The Fiftieth Birthday of Agassiz."
CHAPTER XVI
Sports -- Amusements -- Parks
Herring River. - The tide mill which had various owners was advertised under the date of July 27, 1821, as follows: - "MILL AT AUCTION. Will be sold at Public Auction on Wednesday, August 8th at 3 o'clock P. M. THE TIDE MILL, with all the rights and privileges thereunto belonging, situated near the village of Fairhaven. It can be examined at any time previous to the sale, or information obtained by application to Elgit Hitch or Flavius Delano."
The fact that a tide mill was located near this body of water caused it to be called the Mill Pond.
Twenty-One Acres. - This Park, an artificial substitute for the five-acre stretch of ice, so fitted for winter carnivals, where num- bers ranging from a few dozen to hundreds, have enjoyed themselves in the extreme, day in and day out, can be visualized by those who never saw the expanse of water, through the photographs of Her- ring river, many being extant.
When it comes to visualizing the land fringing this area, however, it is a different story. The grove is remembered, perhaps, but let us get a glimpse of the edge or boundary of the old Mill Pond, where now we find streets and habitations, by quoting the following : - "LAND FOR SALE. To be sold at auction on Tuesday, the 15th day of March, at one o'clock, on the premises, if not previously disposed of at private sale. A lot of Salt Meadow, English mowing and Pasture Land, situated on the east side of the Mill Pond, near the village of Fairhaven; containing about twenty-one acres. The Salt Meadow cuts about four tons of hay yearly. (Signed) Joseph Bates. Fairhaven, February 9, 1825."
Skating Arenas. - The Mill Pond, Hawes' Pond, and Dana's Pond afforded the skating arenas of the town. That such places of healthful enjoyment were appreciated goes without saying; yet let us quote a few expressions of opinion in regard to the thrills of those favorite spots, in order to emphasize the satisfaction which those ponds rendered, beginning with 1859, intercepting those quo- tations with an item about a public common.
On December 14, 1859, one hundred youth procured the use of Hawes' pond for a skating party. No casual observer can locate this
196
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
skating arena today, although the old-timers can go to the spot, east of Main street, and north of Bridge street. This pond was situated very near the intersection of two lines, one drawn east from the site of the old high school building and the other drawn north from the house where lived John Gurney, on Bridge street.
Under the date of Saturday, January 13, 1872, we read: - "SKATING has been good for a few days back. The Fairhaven people have a convenient pond in the middle of the village, and it has been nightly covered with the poetry of motion."
Thursday, January 1, 1874 has something else about the Mill Pond : "The Mill Pond, in Fairhaven, was a gay scene last evening, being covered with skaters." And Friday, January 30, of the same year has this to say : - "SKATING. The Mill Pond, in Fairhaven, presents a very carnival scene every evening with its crowd of skaters and numerous bonfires. Many visit the pond from the other side of the river every evening."
About the time that these patterners were cutting all sorts of figures on the Mill Pond, a movement was initiated, in Fairhaven, to afford the youth an opportunity for summer relaxation. A town meeting was held in Phoenix Hall on the morning of Monday, April 7, 1873. Among the articles for discussion was Article Fourteen which read: - "To see if the town will vote to purchase the lots of land bounded by Washington street on the north, Pleasant street on the east, Center street on the south and Chestnut street on the west, and lay the same out as a public Common." At that time there was only one house on this entire area.
We know that the article relative to the proposed Common was indefinitely postponed. A dozen years later, however, Mr. Rogers acquired the entire square immediately south, and constructed, for educational purposes, the building that, since 1885, has admirably served the children of this town. Thus a beginning was made in our midst of a system of modern education. In due time Mr. Rogers bestowed upon the town a PUBLIC COMMON.
Speaking of Dana's reminds one of the superb skating on that pond during the winter of 1885-1886, and again in 1888, when Dana's was the favorite place for skating, since the ice on the Mill Pond was completely covered with grit. Ordinarily, however, the Mill Pond was thronged with skaters, even after a considerable fall of snow, for the Street Railway Company has been known to clear the pond or a portion thereof. This, coupled with the appearance of Holmes' lunch cart, that ventured upon the ice, vending coffee and
.
197
SPORTS, AMUSEMENTS, PARKS
"hot dogs" in the afternoon and evening, to the accompaniment of a huge and glowing bonfire, in 1893, makes us prone to believe that fun and enjoyment were plentiful for both Fairhaven and New Bedford skaters. On Wednesday, December 28, 1892, there were four hundred skaters on this icy paradise.
By the way, this ice-skating era calls to mind the hours spent in the Adelphi Rink, in New Bedford, beginning in November, 1885. A new feature of roller-skating, on a hard wood surface, was in- augurated, that of reserving Saturday morning sessions for school children. The tickets were ten cents each, and no charge for skates. This rink was well patronized by Fairhaven youth.
Under the date of December 3, 1877, we read: "SKATING. The Fairhaven boys were rejoiced this morning to find the best of skating on the glaring ice of the pond on Main street."
Under January 9, 1878, we find : "The skating on the Mill Pond, in Fairhaven, reached its climax yesterday afternoon and in the even- ing, till the snow came. There were many ladies and gentlemen pres- ent from New Bedford. This morning the snow was swept from the pond, and the sport is indulged in with unabated zest."
Under January 30th, of the same year, we read: "Skating is excellent upon the Mill Pond, in Fairhaven, today, and is extensively indulged in. The Fairhaven horse-cars bulletin the condition of the pond."
The Star of December 16, 1893, relates: "The Mill Pond was thronged with skaters all day Tuesday."
In addition to the futile attempt of 1873, to supplement our skating facilities by voting a public park for summer recreation, another attempt was made twenty years later to have both park and skating arenas in close proximity, as the following discloses: In the spring of 1894, Dame Rumor was whispering that it might be a wor- thy project to acquire the shore rights around the Mill Pond for park purposes, in which event Fairhaven could enjoy both summer and winter sports. This plan, however, did not materialize, but, in its stead, within a decade, Herring river, our winter playground, began to be filled in, and thus Cushman Park was created.
Relic of the Past. - Thousands and tens of thousands of eyes have looked upon the full-rigged ship, atop the tall mast, in Capt. George Brown's yard, adjacent to the pond. This served as a weather vane for that vicinity. Today the frequenters of Cushman Park have the exceptional privilege of looking upon the identical
198
OLD - TIME FAIRHAVEN
staff and vane which have stood there for more than three quarters of a century.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.