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Gc 974.402 D36a 1993826
M. L.
REYNOLDS HISTORICAL GENEALOGY COLLECTION
ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY 3 1833 01145 5448
Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015
https://archive.org/details/taleofdedhamtave00aust 0
TALE OF A DEDHAM MIN
TAVERN
History of THE NORFOLK HOTEL Dedham, Massachusetts
BY
WALTER AUSTIN
CAMBRIDGE Privately Printed at the Riverside Press MCMXII
78 10046 1 "
:
1993826
TALE OF A DEDHAM TAVERN
Read Mar 28-1778
WALTER AUSTIN
L MA
Mrs. Frank K. Nach
de. 31/1912.
TALE OF A DEDHAM TAVERN
,
LDEN'S HOTEL DEDHAM
S
311
-1
1
THE ORIGINAL TAVERN From Independent Politician and Workingmen's Advocate, January 6, 1831.
TALE OF A DEDHAM Mat )
TAVERN
History of THE NORFOLK HOTEL Dedham, Massachusetts
BY
WALTER AUSTIN
CAMBRIDGE Privately Printed at the Riverside Press MCMXII
PREFACE
N collecting the subject-matter for this story of a Tavern in Dedham, Massachusetts, I have availed myself largely of the material and facilities afforded by the Dedham Historical Society, including the newspapers of Dedham be- ginning with the Columbian Minerva and continu- ing in an almost unbroken series to the present day, the Diaries of Nathaniel Ames, William Ames, and Herman Mann, and the books and records of various societies, clubs, and other Dedham organiz- ations. I am also indebted to many of the resid- ents of Dedham for much information in regard to the facts within these pages. It is a pleasure to record my obligation to these people, and es- pecially to Miss Edna F. Calder and Julius H. Tuttle, Esq .; also to my cousin, G. Howard May- nadier, for many valuable suggestions. I also thank the Dedham Transcript for allowing me to quote freely from its files.
W. A.
I
CONTENTS
I. Introduction
I
II. Martin Marsh, Landlord, 1801-1818 6
III. Moses Gragg and Francis Alden, Landlords, 1818-1821 27
IV. Moses Gragg, Landlord, 1821-1828 38
V. Francis Alden, Landlord, 1828-1840 57
VI. Martin Bates and Others, Landlords, 1840- 1866 II4
VII. Saint Mary's School and Asylum, 1866-1905 159 VIII. Charles H. Gifford, 1905-1910 169
Appendix A 175
" The Passing of Lafayette"
Appendix B 181
Index 187
1
ILLUSTRATIONS
The Original Tavern Frontispiece
Martin Marsh
6
Francis Alden
27
Moses Gragg
38
Elephant
44
The Court House, dedicated 1827 52
The Tavern, 1829 57
Advertisement of the Norfolk Hotel, 1831 62
A Dedham Stage Coach 65
The Ballroom 69
Martin Bates
114
Masonic Notice I27
Poster of the Society in Dedham for Apprehending
Horse Thieves, 1843 150
The Norfolk Hotel, 1866-1905 159
The Ballroom, 1905 167
The House to-day. North and South views
169
The Hall I71
TALE OF A DEDHAM TAVERN
THE NORFOLK HOTEL
I
Introduction
I N the colonial days in New England the tavern, inn, or ordinary, as it was variously called, was one of the most prominent institutions in the * community. Much news emanated from the tav- ern, brought by the traveller from his last stopping- place. Town-meetings and sittings of the court were at times held here. In the cold winters the comfortable fire and the other attractions, which could only be found here, were appreciated and en- joyed; so that the tavern became a favorite meeting- place for the men of the settlement, holding very much the same position, as a rendezvous for the townspeople, as the post-office of our small New England towns of to-day. Our New England tav- erns held this prominent place in the community down to the time of the introduction of the steam railroad and the telegraph.
The keeper of the tavern was often an important person in the town, the best-known, the most popu- lar, and perhaps the most picturesque and cheer- ful. He was usually informed on all public matters,
[ I ]
A Dedham Tavern
-- and private matters as well, and enjoyed the con- fidence of all who partook of his hospitality. He almost always held some public office.
Speaking of the tavern keeper, James Fenimore Cooper says : 1
"The innkeeper of Old England and the inn- keeper of New England form the very extremes of their class. The former is obsequious to the rich; the other unmoved and often apparently cold. The first seems to calculate at a glance the amount of profit you are likely to leave behind you, while his opposite appears to calculate only in what manner he can most contribute to your comfort without materially impairing his own. . . He is often a magistrate, the chief of a battalion of militia or even a member of a state legislature. He is almost always a man of character, for it is difficult for any other to obtain a license to exercise the calling."
The four principal landlords of the Norfolk Hotel, or Norfolk House, the subject of this "Tale," were all prominent and influential citizens of Dedham.
Dedham, being on the direct road from Boston to Providence, New York, and points farther south, had its full quota of taverns. The earliest tavern we have evidence of was Michael Powell's, who was licensed in 1646. The exact location of his tavern or ordinary, which must have been a very humble affair, has not been determined.
1 Notions of the Americans, 1828, accredited to Cooper. See Stage-Coach and Tavern Days, by Alice M. Earle.
[ 2 ]
Introduction
Then there was Woodward's Tavern, "the birth- place of the American Revolution," which stood near High Street, on the easterly side of the old road from the "Keye" on Charles River. This tavern was licensed to Joshua Fisher in 1658, who was later succeeded by his son. About 1735, Dr. Nathaniel Ames, Senior, the Almanac-maker, be- came landlord of the tavern, and his son, Fisher Ames, the distinguished Dedham statesman, was born here. Shortly before the Revolution, Richard Woodward succeeded him and the house was af- terwards known as "Woodward's Tavern." Here in September, 1774, met the famous Suffolk Con- vention where was chosen the Committee that drafted the first resolutions in favor of armed re- sistance to Great Britain, if necessary. Many dis- tinguished patriots have sat within its walls. This historic tavern was torn down in 1817.1
The site of the Phoenix House, corner of High and Washington streets, at one time the finest hotel in Norfolk County, and unfortunately de- stroyed by fire in 1880, was first occupied by a tav- ern the latter part of the eighteenth century. The house at various times was known as "Smith's Tavern," "Gay's," the "Dedham Hotel," "Pol- ley's," "Alden's," and "Bride's." . The original building was destroyed by fire in 1832, and the new house arising from the ashes of its predecessor was
1 See The Colonial Tavern, by Edward Field. Also Stage-Coach and Tavern Days, by Earle.
[ 3]
A Dedham Tavern
called the "Phoenix"; some of its landlords were James Bride, David Kingman, Adam H. White, Theodore T. Kimball, James Clark, John Tilton, Josiah D. Howe, and James Eaton.
Two other well-known taverns in Dedham were Gay's Tavern, on Court Street, near Highland Street, and Howe's Tavern, on Court Street, near Church Street.
The Norfolk Hotel, or Norfolk House, on Court Street, was the last of the old taverns. There were others in Dedham, but those mentioned above were the most prominent in the town as it exists to-day. It is to be noted that this tavern has been called the "Norfolk Hotel" or "Norfolk House." It was called by the former name until about 1850, and afterwards by the latter. It will be referred to here as the "Norfolk Hotel," as that was the name given it in 1818 by its landlords, Gragg and Alden. But it has also been referred to as "Marsh's," "Gragg and Alden's," "Gragg's," "Alden's," "Bates's," "Haseltine's," "McIntire's," etc .; for most tav- erns in the old days were called either by their established name or that of the individual or indi- viduals who happened to be landlord at the time.
The subject of this "Tale" stands on the quad- rangle (comprising about five acres), now bounded by High Street, Court Street, Village Avenue, and Bullard Street, which was a portion of the original grant or apportionment of 1636 to "Ezechiell" Holliman, "a man of gifts and piety." By way of
[ 4 ]
1
Introduction
explanation I will state that the land comprising the town was originally granted by the General Court to a few proprietors, who apportioned the lots to such individuals as were admitted into "Our Society," and who subscribed their names to the Covenant. These grants were first made during the year 1636.1 The grant to Holliman reads: "Ezechiell Holliman twelve Acres more or lesse as lyeth betweene the way leading from the keye to the Pond towards the East, & Nicholas Phillips towards ye West & the waye leading to ye bury- ing place towards ye South, the high Street through the same." .
Holliman conveyed all his land thefollowing year to Joseph Kingsbury, who in 1638 conveyed to the town, "for a seat for a publique Meetinge house," one acre on High Street of the quadrangle referred to, and this is the lot upon which the First Church in Dedham now stands. Kingsbury also conveyed three acres of the quadrangle to John Phillips, re- taining the balance of the same; and in 1641 both conveyed their entire interests in the quadrangle to the church, which held an almost unencumbered title to the whole until 1801, when Martin Marsh bought, or rather leased, the land upon which he built his tavern, later to be known as the "Nor- folk Hotel." 2
1 See Plan of Dedham Village, Massachusetts, 1636-1876, published by the Dedham Historical Society.
2 See Appendix; Report of Examiner, Land Registration Court, Boston.
[ 5 ]
II Martin Marsh, Landlord, 1801-1818
M ARTIN MARSH was for many years one of the most active and respected citizens in Dedham and he filled many offices of trust and responsibility. He was born in Hingham in 1777 and died at Dedham, July 26, 1865, at the age of eighty-eight.
At the time of his death the Dedham Gazette, August 5, 1865, published this obituary notice of him: -
"Deacon Martin Marsh died in Dedham on the 26th ult., in the eighty-ninth year of his age, leav- ing a widow with whom he had lived in the married state sixty-six years. He was born in Hingham and came here, on completing his majority, tocommence life on his own responsibility. His thorough ac- quaintance with his business, his punctuality and fidelity to engagements soon won him the confi- dence of the community, and for many years he was busily at work in this and neighboring towns. His clear mind, honesty and integrity gave value to his opinions and services, and led him to be much occupied in public duties in varied departments. For thirty-six years he was Chairman of the Board of Overseers of the House of Correction; was re- peatedly reelected a Director and Treasurer of the Norfolk Insurance Company, and was a watchful guardian of the interests of our Savings Institu-
[ 6]
1
1
MARTIN MARSH
Martin Marsh
tion. Greatly respected by his fellow citizens, he was employed in town and parish affairs, was Se- lectman several successive years, and as Deacon of the First Church for a long period managed their large funds with admirable discretion. By indus- try and economy he acquired ample property. He was public-spirited; at all times ready to aid in whatever might contribute to the improvement of society. Though friendly to social progress he was conservative in his opinions, and was an earnest advocate of obedience to law and the sacred pre- servation of the institutions handed down to us from the fathers. Of quiet, unassuming manners, he rendered all honor to the claims of others, while he modestly concealed his own. His days were prolonged to an unusual length, but the in- firmities of age neither lessened his sympathy for others nor weakened his interest in persons and events. His life was a beautiful illustration of how much a man may do for himself and others by making Christian morals his rule of action. As he approached the end of his pilgrimage, he was sus- tained by a well-grounded hope that he should receive the approval of the Master - 'Well done, good and faithful servant.'"
He was connected with the Fire Department in 1802,1 and was a candidate for Representative to Washington in 1844.2
1 Mann's Annals of Dedham, p. 114.
2 Norfolk Democrat, November 8, 1844.
[ 7 ]
A Dedham Tavern
Early in the century the First Church in Dedham announced its desire to lease portions of its land for a long term of years, and we find this notice in the Columbian Minerva of January 6, 1801, the first newspaper published in Dedham1 by Herman Mann, the elder:
"A number of House Lots in Dedham will be leased for 999 years at public vendue on the prem- mises, on Monday the ninth day of February next at one of the clock, P.M., being laid out upon the land belonging to the Rev. Mr. Haven's Church near the Court House and Meeting House. The soil is good, the situation excellent for mechanics and such as wish to live retired in a pleasant village on the banks of the Charles River.
" Jan. 6, 1801 "ISAAC BULLARD, Committee FISHER AMES, of the
JOSIAH FISHER, Church."
Whatever the results of this notice, on June 15, 1801, Joseph Whiting, Aaron Fuller, and Isaac Bullard, Deacons of the First Church in Dedham, "lease, set out and to farm let to Martin Marsh of Dedham, mason," the land upon which his tavern, later called the "Norfolk Hotel," was built, "dur- ing the term of 999 years from date hereof" at a yearly ground rental of thirty dollars.2 In 1809,
1 First published in 1797.
2 Norfolk Reg. of Deeds, Book 58, p. 203. By the Revised Laws of Massachusetts, chap. 129, sec. I, land demised for the term of one
[ 8]
-
Martin Marsh
the church leased to him on similar terms the ad- joining southerly parcel, which extended as far as the lot upon which the "General Nathaniel Guild House" stands now.1
Marsh built his house, which forms the original part of the Norfolk Hotel, in brick, probably in 1801: "The first building erected on this estate for a hotel, and which forms a part of the present structure [Norfolk Hotel], was built in 1801 byMar- tin Marsh." 2 He was a mason by trade at this time, and for some years afterwards,3 and for a while at least his house apparently served the double purpose of a tavern and a mascn's shop.
At this time (1801) the only buildings of conse- quence on the First Church land which comprised the quadrangle before referred to, were the Meet- ing-House, the School-House built probably in 1753 replacing the first free public School-House in the country, erected in 1649, and the Court-House built in 1795 after Norfolk County was carved out of Suffolk County in 1793 and Dedham made the shire town. Besides these buildings, within a short radius of the Marsh lot, were Minister Haven's house; Woodward's Tavern, before referred to; the homes of Fisher Ames and his brother, Nathaniel
hundred years or more shall be regarded as an estate in fee-simple. The conveyances in this book will be treated as if made in fee-simple.
1 Norfolk Reg. of Deeds, Book 58, p. 204.
2 Dedham Gazette, July 7, 1866.
3 Norfolk Reg. of Deeds, Book 58, p. 204, where his occupation is given.
[ 9]
A Dedham Tavern
Ames; the Pitt's Head monument; the Old Epis- copal Church; Gay's and Howe's taverns; the Jail; the "Old Burial Place," which was set apart in 1638 "for the use of a public Buriall place for ye Towne forever"; the site of the camp in 1782 of our French allies in the Revolutionary War; and some distance farther away the "Old Powder House." Truly historic ground!
The first allusion to Marsh's house, though not as a tavern, seems to be in the Columbian Minerva of March 8, 1803 :
"Wanted, an active, steady Lad, from 14 to 17 years old, as an Apprentice to the Mason Business. Apply to Martin Marsh, near the Court-House, Dedham, Feb. 28, 1803."1
Lodges of Freemasons in America, following the custom in England, used to meet at taverns. Marsh's Tavern was for many years prominently identified with the Constellation Lodge of Free- masons. In the Columbian Minerva of October II, 1803, we find this notice in regard to the lodge:
" Masonic Installation.
"The Constellation Lodge will be installed in ample form, on Wednesday, the 19th instant. A public Procession will be formed. Ceremonies will be in the Meeting House, First Parish, and com-
1 See also issues for March 15, 1803, March 22, 1803, March 29, 1803, April 5, 1803, April 12, 1803.
[ 10]
Martin Marsh
mence at twelve o'clock. Dinner will be provided at Brother Druce's, at half past two o'clock. Tick- ets may be had of the Stewards, at Brother Marsh's: "By order of the R. W. Master, "ISAAC WHITING, Sec'y." "Oct. 10, A. L. 5803."
On the appointed day Constellation Lodge was constituted, and its officers installed in due form, by the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts. The so- lemnities were performed in the Rev. Mr. Bates's meeting-house, and gave much satisfaction to a very numerous, respectable and decorous assembly.1
Martin Marsh and his successors, Francis Alden and Moses Gragg, were prominent Freemasons, and here in Marsh's Tavern for some years prior to the dedication of the Masonic Hall in 1829 were held meetings of the old Constellation Lodge, where prominent men of Dedham were raised to the sub- lime degree of Master Masons; and here in the dining-room of this tavern many Masonic ban- quets were given.
The year 1804 marks the completion of the Nor- folk and Bristol Turnpike. Court Street formed a part of it and became still more a great thorough- fare for travel; and it is probable that about this time Marsh opened his house as a tavern in con- nection with his business as a mason.2
1 Columbian Minerva, October 25, 1803.
2 In "Receipts of the Treasurer of Norfolk County from the Clerk
[ II ]
A Dedham Tavern
The first mention of Marsh's house as a tavern seems to be in the Diary of Dr. Nathaniel Ames, the younger, a native of Dedham, and a man of original personality coupled with strong passions and prejudices :
August 12, 1805: "Wm. Smith, surities only, Tav. at Marsh's."
The following entries in Ames's Diary referring to the tavern are also noted:
January 9, 1809: "Married John Howe and Clarissa Burrill at Marsh's tavern."
Fly leaf of 1810: "Henry Marsh, son of Martin sundry times innocl'd with kine pox."
April 19, 1810: "Stage coach every day thro' Dedham sets off from Boston at 4 A.M. reaches Hart- ford at 8 P.M. begins 23d., runs it in 16 hours, 100 m. little more than 6 m. an hour without stop - but relays every 10 miles!" The route passed by Marsh's Tavern.
December 1, 1811: "Notified Gard. L. Chan- dler of meeting tomorrow of Ab' Richds Crs at Marsh's."
December 2, 1811 (fly leaf) : "All Ab" Richards Crs now grantees of his farm being notified to meet this day, only S. Richards Hez' Whiting Chestor Bullard and myself appeared, and appointed Ch' Bullard to examine and produce to next Monday of the Court of Common Pleas of the sums due by law on Licenses to Taverners," Martin Marsh is first mentioned as a Taverner "for the year pastending 1807." This book is owned by the Dedham Histori- cal Society.
[ 12 ]
Martin Marsh
at 3 P.M. an Account of all the produce of the farm of season last in Ab. Richard's hand to meet at Marsh's. But since learn that C. Haven has sued her mortgage and the next Monday only 2 ap- peared & adjourn'd to the next Monday when none appeared - so Ab' Richards enjoys his Farm completely discharged of Debt except mortgages tho' sold & held by many grantees in title only for Partners cannot unite to assert their Rights. As the Sailor said, 'the Partnership was the worst Ship he ever sail'd in.'"'
March 4, 1812: "C. Comee meet at Marsh's."
April 1, 1812: "A caucus or consult'n of Demos pretty full from all parts of town except So. Par. appoint committees from each squad to hunt out rep. voters and get them conveyance to poll, if lame or unable - at Marsh's Tavern."
July 31, 1812: "Consultn 29th of towns of Nor- folk agreed to hold Norfolk Consultn at Marsh's Dedham 3 Monday of Augt at.9 A.M. Thence to join Middlesex & Suffolk after, in Address to President. II towns rep at Boston met from Nor- folk."
August 25, 1812: "2nd Conv'n at Marsh's agreed to support N. Ruggles for Congress."
August 2, 1813: "Conv'n at Marsh's adj'd to 16th."
February 2, 1814: "Marsh began to run a Ded- ham stage in op. to Spencer Clarke's."
March 10, 1814: "C. Conv'n at Marsh's."
[ 13 ]
L
A Dedham Tavern
May 26, 1814: "Engag'd at request of Dr. Richards, Marsh's stage to bring up chronicles."
June 2, 1814: "Second Thursday Marsh's stage brings Endicot's J. Whiting J. Richards & J. Met- calf's Centinel."
July 9, 1814: "Got Patriot today by Dedham stage Marsh's."
July 12, 1814: "Set Celeri plants hove away yes- terday, dried in sun at Marsh's yet grow but for want of attention many smother'd by earth roll'd in & buried them."
Mar. 20, 1815: "Convention of Repub. at Marsh's."
June 30, 1817: "Great parade to receive the Presdt Monroe. Artillery arriv'd fr. upper towns in the morning. Crane's Division Ist of Militia ord'd out - cavalry to escort him fr S. boundary of Nor- folk to Boston. No! Only to Dedham, then, Presi- dent reviews the troops on the Great Common, near sunsetting - sleeps at Mr. Dowse's where many are attending - 2ยช July morning President walks from Dowse's to Polleys Tavern where I was the first introduc'd & shook hands with him vast many after kept him continually bowing untill Gen of division, that none offer to shake hands, but front & bow & pass by."
From American Tracts, 1812, published same year:
[ 14 ]
Martin Marsh
"Norfolk Convention
"Pursuant to previous notice, Republican Dele- gates from the several towns in the County of Nor- folk assembled at Marsh's Tavern, in Dedham, on the 17th inst. at 9 o'clock A.M. The Hon. Thomas B. Adams was chosen President and Erastus Worth- ington, Esq. Secretary of the Convention. A com- mittee was chosen to prepare an Address and Re- solutions, expressive of the opinion and sentiments of the meeting."
The "Address and Resolutions" approved the War just declared against Great Britain.
Same (1812):
"Norfolk Nomination
"To the Friends of Peace, Liberty and Com- merce within the District of Norfolk.
"A number of Delegates of the Republicans from the several towns comprising the Norfolk District, who were desirous of changing the Congressional Representative, and of nominating a more suitable candidate than the present member to represent said District in Congress of the U. S. after the 4th of March next, having met at Mr. Marsh's Tavern in Dedham, the 25th. inst. agreeably to previous notice in the Boston Patriot and Independent Chronicle, after having chosen Gen. Geo. Ellis, President, and John S. Williams Esq., Secretary,
[ 15 ]
A Dedham Tavern
they unanimously agreed upon Nathaniel Ruggles Esq. of Roxbury as the most suitable person; and now beg leave publicly to nominate and recommend him to their fellow citizens throughout said Dis- trict, as the most suitable person to represent said District in the next Congress and in whose pa- triotism, fidelity and unblemished integrity, we have the highest confidence."
It will thus be noticed that the Tavern early became a centre for political meetings, a distinc- tion which lasted beyond the middle of the century. The period from the beginning of the nineteenth century to the end of the War of 1812 was one of heated and violent political passions. Politics di- vided families, churchgoers, and communities, and entered into trials for murder,1 and even the con- duct of funerals. Nathaniel Ames refused to at- tend the funeral of his brother, Fisher Ames, be- cause the Federalists had charge of the burial.2
Marsh's Tavern was early identified with The Society in Dedham for Apprehending Horse Thieves, which Society for more than a hundred years has existed to the present day. Organized in 1810 as the "Detecting Society in Dedham," in 1814 it adopted the present name. The preamble to the old Constitution shows the purpose for which this Society was formed.3 It reads: "The great number
1 Thomas O. Selfridge Trial, 1806.
2 Nathaniel Ames's Diary, 1808.
3 Original Records in the Dedham Historical Society.
[ 16]
Martin Marsh
of horses stolen from amongst us and in our vi- cinity is truly alarming and calls for the attention of every well disposed citizen. It is evident there has been, and probably will continue, a combina- tion of villains through the Northern States, to carry into effect this malignant design, and their frequent escape from the hand of justice stimulates them to that atrocious practice. And as that kind of property is almost liable to be carried away out of our knowledge, it requires the utmost exertion of every good member of society to baffle and sup- press depredations of this kind, and in order more effectually to bring about this end, the following Articles are laid down." Sixteen articles follow and we find Martin Marsh's name among those of the subscribers. As there were no railroads, telephones, or telegraphs in those days to assist in running down horse thieves the necessity for this society at that time is apparent.
At a meeting of the inhabitants from different parts of Dedham, called June 4, 1810, it was voted that the Constitution exhibited to said inhabitants for the organization of a "Detecting Society in Dedham" be adopted.1 At this meeting the fol- lowing officers were chosen: William Ellis, Clerk; Nathaniel Whiting, President; General George Ellis, Vice-President; Eliphalet Baker, Treasurer; Captain Eliphalet Thorp, John Endicott, Joseph
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