USA > Massachusetts > Norfolk County > Dedham > Tale of a Dedham tavern; history of the Norfolk hotel, Dedham, Massachusetts > Part 4
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Same, March 22, 1827: Notice of an adjourned meeting of the Commissioners of Highways for the County of Norfolk to be held at "Gragg's Tavern."
1 Dedham Transcript, December 30, 1911.
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A Dedham Tavern
Same, August 23, 1827 : "A considerable number of the inhabitants of Dedham assembled at Gragg's Hotel on Monday evening for the purpose of de- vising measures for the more effectual extinguish- ment of Fire." A committee was appointed and reported a number of recommendations, among them the formation of a Fire Society.
Gragg now contemplated moving to Milton and he inserted this offer of sale of his tavern in the Village Register of January 31, 1828:
"The subscriber will sell or let an establishment which he now himself improves as a Public House, and is well known as the Norfolk Hotel. This es- tate for business and pleasantness is not surpassed by any other in the County of Norfolk.
"MOSES GRAGG."
This notice apparently had its result, for soon after, on April 1, 1828, Moses Gragg conveyed the Norfolk Hotel and premises to his former partner, Francis Alden,1 himself taking a new hotel in Mil- ton,2 which he called the "Blue Hill Hotel." 3
1 Norfolk Reg. of Deeds, Book 84, p. 215.
2 Mann's Diary, July 4, 1828.
3 Village Register, June 26, 1828.
THE TAVERN, 1829
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V
Francis Alden, Landlord, 1828-1840
I N this period the Norfolk Hotel, or "Alden's Hotel," under Captain Francis Alden as land- lord, reached its prime in fame and popularity. It continued to be a favorite resort for political meetings, caucuses, and conventions. Balls, dances, banquets, concerts, sleighing-parties, and other similar diversions were held here. Military organ- izations, various clubs and societies - in fact, getherings of almost every popular sort followed in rapid succession within the hospitable walls of the Norfolk Hotel under the management of its genial host.
Francis Alden was born in Needham, Massachu- setts in 1793 and died in Dedham, March 17, 1875. At his death this obituary was published: 1
"A conspicuous citizen of Dedham has gone, in the death of Capt. Francis Alden, who died at the residence of his son in law, Mr. Sanford Carroll, on Church St. in this village, on Wednesday evening at the advanced age of 82 years. . .. Capt. Alden was a native of Dedham, the eldest of a number of sons of the late Amasa Alden - Francis, Leon- ard, George and Amasa - all, now deceased, living within our remembrance. He will be remem- bered by many old residents as landlord of the 1 Dedham Transcript, March 20, 1875.
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A Dedham Tavern
Norfolk House for many years, when it had the patronage of the Court. He was afterwards agent for the Providence Railroad and had the manage- ment of the Dedham Branch Railroad (via Read- ville), under the administration of Wm. Raymond Lee, the first superintendent. He was an energetic, enterprising and industrious man, and his decease will be generally regretted."
Alden at once began improving and enlarging the tavern. "The original house was of brick, 42 feet wide by 20 feet deep, 2 stories high with a hall and staircase in the centre, and a room on each side. At some later period the house was increased in depth to 30 feet, the additional space at the back being veneered with brick on the ends and left with wooden clapboards across the rear. Later still a large room was built at the right, with another entrance doorway (this explaining the two door- ways), increasing the width of the house to its present dimension of 64 feet. This addition was all of brick, and at the same time the dwelling was made 3 stories high. About this time, or later, the wooden ell which is 60 feet long and 28 feet wide - the full dimensions of the ball room - was added to the brick main portion of the house." 1
Alden also added a large porch extending the whole length of the house, traces of which can still be seen on the front of the building.
1 Dedham Transcript, March 6, 1909. "The Old Norfolk House," by the Rev. E. W. Virgin. The description is more or less inaccurate.
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Francis Alden
Speaking of these improvements the Dedham Gazette says: 1 "The estate [in 1828] was much im- proved by Capt. Alden. The front building was extended, the addition containing the hall and also the stable were built by him."
The alterations considerably enlarged the bar or tap-room, or "great-room," which now (1912) forms the library of the house. Here were to be found all the necessary adjuncts of an old-time bar, including the "flip iron," "flip bowls," and the desk with quill pen, sand-box, and account-book in which were recorded the number of transactions charged to each patron.
The "flip iron" was an indispensable article of the "great-room" and always stood or hung by the fireplace. It was a large iron stirring-stick and was often used in the concoction of certain bever- ages. Other curious names were given it, such as "loggerhead," "hottle," or "flip dog." It was heated in the fire till red hot and was then thrust into the liquid, the bitter taste imparted by the iron to the liquor being greatly enjoyed.
In those days "Flip" and "Half-and-Half" were favorite beverages. "Flip" was made of home- brewed beer, sugar, and spice, and a liberal dash of Jamaica rum, and was mixed with the "flip iron." "Half-and-Half"was a mixture of two malt liquors, usually ale and porter, or old and new ale.
A list of drinks popular in New England con-
1 July 7, 1866. [ 59 ]
A Dedham Tavern
tains also the following: Punch, cider, strong beer, porter, grog, madeira, port, sherry toddy, claret, sangaree, and toddy. But there were many others of as general popularity as these, for there was rum, both New England and West Indies, brandy, "sillebub," "Jonava" (gin), metteglin, sack mum, ale, and no end of mixtures of which these formed the base.1
STAGE-COACHES
Those were the good old days of the Stage-Coach, when stops were made at the various taverns along the route for a change of horses or refreshments. The arrival of the coach was always a lively one at the Tavern. The townsmen, eager for the last news, would drop in and mingle with the new ar- rivals around the comfortable fire in the great- room. Here the assembled company, with toddy, flip, and other good cheer generously passed around, would discuss all manner of subjects, politics usu- ally being the chief topic. A prosperous calling was that of landlord of an old-time stage tavern.
Within a few days of his purchase of the Norfolk Hotel, Alden advertised his house and the stage- lines by publishing this notice in the Village Regis- ter, April 10, 1828:
1 Huntoon's History of Canton; also Alice M. Earle in Sabbath in Puritan New England; Stage-Coach and Tavern Days; Field's Colonial Tavern.
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Francis Alden
" Removal
"Francis Alden respectfully informs his friends and the public generally, that he has removed from the Inn lately occupied by him and known by the name of the 'Gay Tavern' to the Norfolk Hotel, heretofore kept by Mr. Moses Gragg. The house is pleasantly situated in the centre of the village of Dedham, on the Boston and Providence Turn- pike, nearly opposite the new Court House, and near the Dedham Bank and is more conveniently situated for the transaction of public business than any other tavern; it affording a convenient stop- ping place for the Southern and Western travel; and he hopes by a continuance of his exertions and by the superior accommodations of his house to merit and obtain a continuance of the public pat- ronage.
"N. B. The Commercial Line of Stages running between Boston and Providence, and connected with the Steamboat Line between Boston and New- port, have so far altered their arrangements as to take relays of horses at this House, where way passengers going North and South can be accom- modated at the lowest rates of fare. Horses and carriages furnished at the shortest notice.
" Dedham, Apr. 10, 1828."
Again within a month Alden advertises the Dedham Stage (started by Martin Marsh in 1814), in the Village Register, May 1, 1828:
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A Dedham Tavern
"Summer Arrangement. Dedham Stage
"The stage will start from the Norfolk House (Alden's, formerly Gragg's) at 7 in the morning, every day, Sundays excepted, and call at Capt. Francis Guild's store and Mr. Bride's Hotel in Dedham, pass through Roxbury and arrive in Bos- ton at 8.30 o'clock. Returning leaves Thompson's Hotel, No. 9 Elm St., at 4 o'clock P.M.
"In addition to the above, a Stage will start from the same place every Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 7.30 A.M. and pass by the several manu- facturing establishments in Dedham; and thence to the Brush Hill Turnpike, direct to Boston and arrive at 9 o'clock. Leaves Thompson's Hotel at 4.30 P.M. same days. Fare 50 cents."
Three years later, after all the changes and al- terations had been made, Alden again advertises his house in the Dedham Patriot, January 7, 1831, once more calling attention to the stage-lines.1
The Independent Politician and Workingmen's Advocate of January 5, 1831 (two days prior to the above notice in the Dedham Patriot), advertises the Norfolk Hotel in almost precisely the same lan- guage, but with a cut of the Tavern (see frontis- piece) as it formerly stood.
The Norfolk Hotel was an important stagecentre. It was on Court Street which was a part of the "King's Highway," and the first national post-
1 See illustration facing p. 62.
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M
eral Patronage he has for twenty
proved.his PI BLIC HOLE & # great expense has mar it off of tim most Convenient, LMtensive, nad
PLEASANT ESTABLISHMENTS of the kind in the Country. Itt Central Location, in my in the atu- ; mediante vicinity of the Court House Bank, and other pethe buildings-and being situated on the TURNPIRL FROM BO-ION TO PRO1- IDENCE.
The Stages to and from those places passing daily by his door - renders its jadvantages over every other publ house .
fon the load great and obvious. A new and much more pleasant and direct road to the city of Boston, commencing Inear this house, furmshes a more level. " pleasant and comvement way to the city than any other ; avoiding the hills ofthe Old Road, and the Hills and Tolls of the Turnpike.
SLEIGHING PARTIES
WILL FIND
WARM ROOMS AND HOT SUPPERS.
COTILLION PARTIES
THE ACCOMMODATION OF
A SPACIOUS HALL, The Travelling Publie generally will receive these PROMPT ATTENTIONS which can promote the Comfort and Convenience of all, while sojourning at his house.
1
MAfu GENTEEL BOARDERS from the city of country can be furnish- ed with Ample Accommodations.
GOOD HORSES AND CARRIAGES Furnished at short notice, and oh reasonable terms.
I. ALDIN
Dedbam, Jan. 7; 1-31.
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Francis Alden
route established in the country in 1693, running from Portsmouth, New Hampshire, through Boston, Dedham, Providence, New York, and as far south as James City, Virginia. In 1795 the first mail coach passed over this road from Boston to points south.
The Norfolk and Bristol Turnpike was completed in 1804, and Court Street as far as Highland Street was a part of it. Erastus Worthington, in his His- tory of Dedham, published in 1827, says : "The Nor- folk and Bristol Turnpike goes through the village and is a great thoroughfare between the north and the south. The steamboats from New York land their passengers at Providence, and in a few hours afterwards six or seven stages full may be fre-
quently seen a mile south of the village descending into it, bringing sometimes the dust with them which they raise. Every other day the mail arrives on its way to Washington City. The number of those who assemble at the Post Office at the hour of arrival is not so great that each one must ask a question and be off, but custom allows the talkers and the quidnuncs to remain, and amuse or op- press their temporary audience with their remarks on all subjects."
The Rev. Edward W. Virgin says on this sub- ject: 1 "It [the Norfolk Hotel] was on the direct road from Boston to New York. In 1832, it is said, 1600 stages rolled in and out of Boston weekly, and
1 Dedham Transcript, March 6, 1909.'
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எல்தீ ட்ச மி
A Dedham Tavern
30 coaches left early every morning from Boston for New York, and there was an old saw that ‘tav- erns were as thick as fiddlers in hell.'"'
Samuel McIntire, son of a later landlord, says : 1 "Reverting again to my boyhood, those were the good old days of the stage coach, and often as I stood upon the rustic porch of the old Norfolk House, have watched with the keenest interest the driver perched upon his high seat, circle his four in hand at full speed, around and up in front of the porch, with the precision of a master. It was done so nicely and with such ease that I wished I was old enough to be in the driver's place; indeed I thought at the time that the driver of a stage coach was about as exalted a position as a person could well occupy, and the sharp crack of the whip as the driver swung the long lash to bring the leaders into place was music in my ears and made me long to handle that whip and try its snapping qualities. Those old coaches with their heavy leather springs and upholstered seats were easy to ride in, and be- sides a social way of travel, far ahead of that by rail, and since come in use to drive the coach from the road."
During the first third of the nineteenth century the stage-coaches for long distance travelling had three wide seats, one at each end of the coach, and one in the middle called the "strap seat." Each
1 "Echoes of the Past, or the Home of my Boyhood," Dedham Transcript, November 29, 1902.
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Francis Alden
of these three seats accommodated three passen- gers, making nine in all inside. Later there were also some outside seats. The back part of the coach was used for baggage.1
An old resident in 1888 gives his reminiscences of "fifty or sixty years ago": 2 "One of the ex- citements to arouse the town out of its lethargy was
Type of a Dedham Stage Coach, about 1830. Similar to the one in the painting of Bride's Tavern, now in the Dedham Historical Society
the arrival of the stage coaches at Bride's or Al- den's tavern on their way from Providence to Boston. Then for a few moments all was hurry and bustle, the stage horn would be heard in the distance, and the horses would be brought to the door all harnessed and ready, and in less time than I could tell it the tired horses are taken out and fresh ones put in and the stage is on its way, the Citizens' and the Peoples' Line striving to see which
1 See From the Stage-Coach to the Railroad Train and the Street Car, by George G. Crocker.
2 Dedham Transcript, February 25, 1888; "Old Times Reviewed."
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A Dedham Tavern
shall make the shortest time." He speaks of Fran- cis Alden as a "model landlord."
Great was the rivalry existing between the dif- ferent lines of coaches to see which should make the quickest time between Boston and Providence, the usual time being about four and one-half hours. The Citizens' Line stopped at the Phoenix, and the Peoples' Line at the Norfolk Hotel to exchange horses, or perhaps for breakfast. The Citizens' Line built some very light and handsome coaches, and with their fastest horses ran what was called the "Pioneer Line," making the whole distance in about three and one-half hours, thus beating the other line. A large number of horses were required, and from seventy-five to one hundred were kept at the stable in the rear of the Phoenix Hotel, and at the time of the burning of the stables more than sixty horses perished.1
The Citizens' Line left Boston at 5 A.M. at all seasons of the year, often sending twelve or fifteen coaches at a time and sometimes as many as forty passed through Dedham in a single day.2
To illustrate the speed of the horses and the keen competition between their owners, I. quote from Nathaniel Ames's Diary, April 1, 1806: "Upon a wager of 1100 dols. Mason's horse of Providence & Cabot's horse of Boston started from Providence arriv'd at Dedham in 2 hours 15 minutes went to
1 Dedham Historical Register, vol. I, p. 116.
2 Frank Smith, Dedham Taverns.
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Boston & back in 80 minutes to Dedham, so on to Providence again all people exclaiming .at such extreme cruelty to such generous animals."
Again to illustrate - the editor of the Prov- idence Gazette,1 speaking of the stage-coach, wrote: "We were rattled from Providence to Boston in 4 hours and 50 minutes - if any one wants to go faster, he may send to Kentucky and charter a streak of lightning."
As to the time taken in changing the horses of the coaches "our Dedham hostlers do the same thing handsomely in one minute." 2
Of course upon the completion of the Boston & Providence Railroad and the extension of the branch line to Dedham in 1834, all this was changed, and the village of Dedham felt the change severely. Its former bustle and activity disappeared, for there was no industry to take the place of the Stage-Coach.
THE BALLROOM
The furnishing of food, drink, and shelter to travellers was not the only function of the tavern. It was chiefly at the tavern that opportunity was offered for social gatherings for the amusement of young and old; and the various tavern-keepers made ample provision for the entertainment of those resorting to their houses. Many of them
1 Earle's Stage-Coach and Tavern Days.
2 Norfolk Advertiser, August 2, 1834.
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A Dedham Tavern
added spacious ballrooms to their taverns for this purpose.
The Ballroom of the Norfolk Hotel was one of the best in New England, and for years was the scene of many a festive occasion. Many series of winter parties patronized by the most prominent citizens of Norfolk County were held here. It was in constant demand, and "from far and near part- ies of quality came to try the celebrated spring floor and the elegant game suppers following a royal dance." 1
The graceful minuet had about disappeared at the time the Norfolk Hotel was built; but the old- time contra-dances, where the first gentleman was "to foot it to the second lady and both turn single," and the "first three couples haze, then lead down in the middle and back again," where "the first couple three hands round with the second lady, allemand; three hands round with the second gentleman, allemand again; lead down two couples, up again, cast off one couple, hands round with the third, right hand and left," were gone through with all the spirit and enthusiasm of enjoyment.2
Samuel McIntire, son of a later landlord, as previously stated, gives this picture of the Ball- room: "In the third story of the wing of the old Norfolk House was the ballroom. It had a spring
1 Dedham Transcript, March 6, 1909. "The Old Norfolk House," by the Rev. E. W. Virgin.
2 Field's Colonial Tavern.
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Photographed by John F. Guild, Dedham
Photographed by John F. Guild, Dedham
THE BALL ROOM
Francis Alden
floor and as it yielded to the even step of the merry dancers it would rise and fall like the waves upon a gentle sea; at the same time the doors and win- dows in the second story beneath would rattle as if buffeted by a storm. Of course those dances in that old hall took place during the winter season, and from far and near did the youths of both sexes, decked in their best clothes, congregate to chase the glowing hours with flying feet. In one end of the ballroom was a large, old-fashioned fireplace, and the warmth and the light therefrom added to the cheerfulness of the gay scene within, and bade de- fiance to the storm that might be raging without. In the other end of the room, and well elevated, was the stand for the musicians who played for the dance, a place which for heat, as the dance wore on, could not be duplicated this side of Hades, and for which reason the musicians were excusable, per- haps, if occasionally they went out 'to see a man.' I was too young at the time I write to dance, but I can remember many a gay scene in that hall. The 'square' dance was then all the go; the 'round' dance as yet had not caught in its fond embrace the Dedham lad and bonny lass." 1
As has been truly said : 2 "Those old-time dances which brightened for a moment the dull life of the period would not awaken much enthusiasm in the hearts of the youth to-day. But to those brown
1 Dedham Transcript, November 29, 1902.
2 Field's Colonial Taverns.
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A Dedham Tavern
faced stalwart country youths and those red cheeked, hearty colonial maidens they were the height of pleasure and enjoyment. Here was wit- nessed the old-time contra-dance now gone by. Here the young maidens 'took the step' and the young men 'cut the pigeon wing'!"
The following are references to balls, assemblies, and schools for dancing given in the new Ballroom while Alden was landlord, the first two references indicating that it was being used for these purposes early in 1829:
Village Register, February 19, 1829: " Dedham Assemblies
"The Fourth Assembly will be held on Monday evening at Francis Alden's Hall. Persons wishing for tickets will apply to either of the managers. Per order, GEORGE ALDEN, Sec'y."
Same, March 19, 1829: "Day School for Young Ladies, Masters and Misses. Lovet Stimson, In- structor of Dancing, respectfully informs the in- habitants of Dedham that he proposes commencing a school at the new and elegant Hall of Francis Alden . . . where strict attention will be paid to improve the manners and deportment of the scholars entrusted to his care. A handsome style of dancing and a great variety of the latest and most fashionable cotillions will be taught in his school. Terms $6. for 18 lessons."
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Francis Alden
The same issue speaks of a "new and splendid Dancing Hall" at the Dedham Hotel (Bride's).
Same, December 10, 1829: "Mr. Frost gives Dancing lessons at Alden's Hotel."
Dedham Patriot, January 6, 1832: "Sleighing Parties. Parties of pleasure are frequent in this village, and the Halls of our landlords echo to the light tread of Beauty tripping on the 'light, fan- tastic toe.' All seem to come with merry bells and merry hearts. They thus brighten the gloomy face of Winter with the light and cheerfulness of Sum- mer."
Same, 1831-1832: " The Dedham Cotillion Band. Furnishing music for Cotillion Parties, Balls, Assemblies, or Private Parties. All orders left at Bride's or Alden's Taverns or at the house of Dex- ter Dean. . . Spanish Waltzes if required. DEX- TER DEAN, LATIMER BLAKE."
Same, March 28, 1833 : J. Clark gives notice that he will open a school for dancing at "Capt. Al- den's Hotel."
Same, February 5, 1835 :
"Last Shake
"Notice is hereby given that our last Assembly will be held Friday evening Feb. 13th. at Alden's Hall, Dedham. Those who wish to join in the fa- vorite recreation of Dancing on that occasion are. respectfully invited to attend. J. Q. ADAMS, J. W. NASH, B. H. TUBBS, Managers."
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These parties were called the "Dedham Assem- blies." 1
Same, November 5, 1835: Notice that A. B. White will open a school for dancing at "Alden's Hall. ... For terms and particulars apply at the Bar of the Hotel."
Norfolk Advertiser, February 12, 1836: Notice of the Dedham Assemblies at "Capt. Alden's Hall." Samuel Whiting and Horace Felton, Managers. Same, November 12, 1836:
"Thanksgiving Ball
"Come fix up your ruffles, your ribbons and lace, Let dimples and ringlets now deck every face, Bring plumes, wreaths and roses, gems, diamonds and all, And prepare to attend the grand Thanksgiving Ball.
"Ladies and gentlemen invited to attend the An- nual Ball on the evening of Dec. 1, 1836, at Alden's Hotel. Dancing will commence at. 6 precisely. HORACE FELTON, SAMUEL WHITING, REUBEN FAR- INGTON, MOSES BOYD, Managers."
Same, July 1, 1837 : Mr. A. Deucharannounces he will commence a dancing-class in Mr. Alden's Hall on July 5. "He will teach Waltzes, Gallopades and Mazourkas which have become so very popular and fashionable. Particular attention will be given to instruction in attitudes."
Same, February 17, 1838: "We have had one or two flights of snow, and the sleighs slip along 1 Dedham Patriot, February 12, 1835.
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Francis Alden
very well. Now is the chance for the bows and bells to appear and enjoy themselves. Capt. Alden stands ready to serve them. Come on, then, and enliven Dedham!"
Same, January 12, 1839:
" All Right! The subscribers having engaged Mr. E. Kendall's Cotillion Band, will give a Social As- sembly at Capt. F. Alden's Hall on Friday evening, Jan. 25, 1839.
ELIPHALET STONE, SAMUEL WHITING.
"Tickets two dollars tobe had at the Bar. Music: E Flat Bugle, Harp, Violin, Clarionette, Oph- icleide."
William Ames's Diary, December 27, 1838: "They had a Ball last night at Mr. Alden's. Kept it up till three in the morning."
Norfolk Democrat, February 23, 1839: "Once More ! The last Assembly for the season will be held at Capt. F. Alden's Hall on Mar. 5th. Music by Kendall's Cotillion Band, as before."
William Ames, referred to above, was a son of the Dedham Statesman, Fisher Ames. He was born in Dedham, October 3, 1800, and died in Spring- field, Massachusetts, May 19, 1880. His Diary, kept faithfully for forty-five years, from 1835 to 1880, and now preserved in the Dedham Histori- cal Society, deals chiefly with general information gathered from the daily newspapers and unfortu-
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