USA > Massachusetts > Dukes County > Early History of Naushon Island > Part 4
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
The one-and-thirtieth, Captain Gosnold, desirous to see the main because of the distance, he set sail over; where coming to anchor, went ashore with certain of his company, and immediately there presented unto him men, women and children, who, with all courteous kindness entertained him, giving him certain skins of wild beasts, which may be rich furs, tobacco, turtles, hemp, arti- ficial strings colored, chains, and such like things as at the instant they had about them. These are a fair conditioned people. On all the seacoast along we found mussel shells that in color did represent mother-of-pearl, but not having means to dredge, could not apprehend further knowledge thereof. This main is the good- liest continent that ever we saw, promising more by far than we any way did expect: for it is replenished with fair fields, and in them fragrant flowers, also meadows, and hedged in with stately groves, being furnished also with pleasant brooks, and beautified with two main rivers that (as we judge) may haply become good harbors, and conduct us to the hopes men so greedily do thirst after. In the mouth of one of these inlets or rivers, lieth that little isle before mentioned, called Hap's Hill, from which unto the westernmost end of the main, appearing where the other inlet is, I account some five leagues, and the coast between bendeth like a bow, and lieth east and by north. Beyond these two inlets we might perceive the main to bear up southwest, and more southerly. Thus with this taste of discovery, we now contented ourselves, and the same day made return unto our fort, time not permitting more sparing delay.
The first of June, we employed ourselves in getting sassafras, and the building of our fort. The second, third, and fourth, we wrought hard to make ready our house for the provision to be had ashore to sustain us till our ship's return. This day from the main came to our ship's side a canoe, with their lord or chief com- mander, for that they made little stay only pointing to the sun, as in sign that the next day he would come and visit us, which he did accordingly.
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The fifth, we continued our labor, when there came unto us ashore from the main fifty savages, stout and lusty men with their bows and arrows, amongst them there seemed to be one of au- thority, because the rest made an inclining respect unto him. The ship was at their coming a league off, and Captain Gosnold aboard, and so likewise Captain Gilbert, who almost never went ashore, the company with me only eight persons. These Indians in hasty manner came towards us, so as we thought fit to make a stand at an angle between the sea and a fresh water; I moved myself towards him seven or eight steps, and clapped my hands first on the sides of mine head, then on my breast, and after pre- sented my musket with a threatening countenance, thereby to signify unto them, either a choice of peace or war, whereupon he using me with my own signs of peace, I stepped forth and em- braced him; his company then all sat down like greyhounds upon their heels, with whom my company fell a bartering. By this time Captain Gosnold was come with twelve men more from aboard, and to show the savage seignior that he was our Captain, we re- ceived him in a guard, which he passing through, saluted the seignior with ceremonies of our salutations, whereat he nothing moved or altered himself. Our Captain gave him a straw hat and a pair of knives; the hat awhile he wore, but the knives he beheld with great marvelling, being very bright and sharp; this our cour- tesy made them all in love with us.
The sixth, being rainy we spent idly aboard. The seventh, the seignior came again with all his troop as before, and continued with us the most part of the day, we going to dinner about noon, they sat with us and did eat of our bacaleure and mustard, drank of our beer, but the mustard nipping them in their noses they could not endure: it was a sport to behold their faces made being bitten therewith. In time of dinner the savages had stole a target, wherewith acquainting the seignior, with fear and great trembling they restored it again, thinking perhaps we would have been re-
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venged for it, but seeing our familiarity to continue, they fell afresh to roasting of crabs, red herring, which were exceeding great, ground-nuts, &c. as before. Our dinner ended, the seignior first took leave and departed, next all the rest saving four that stayed and went into the wood to help us dig sassafras, whom we desired to go aboard us, which they refused and so departed.
The eighth we divided the victuals, namely, the ships store for England, and that of the planters, which by Captain Gilbert's allowance could be but six weeks for six months, whereby there fell out a controversy, the rather, for that some seemed secretly to understand of a purpose Captain Gilbert had not to return with supply of the issue, those goods should make by him to be carried home. Besides, there wanted not ambitious conceits in the minds of some wrangling and ill disposed persons who overthrew the stay there at the time, which upon consultation thereof had, about five days after was fully resolved all for England again. There came in this interim aboard unto us, that stayed all night, an Indian, whom we used kindly, and the next day sent ashore; he showed himself the most sober of all the rest, we held him sent as a spy. In the morning, he filched away our pothooks, thinking he had not done any ill therein; being ashore we bid him strike fire, which with an emerald stone (such as the glaziers use to cut glass) he did. I take it to be the very same that in Latin is called smiris, for striking therewith upon touch-wood that of purpose he had, by means of a mineral stone used therein, sparkles proceeded and forwith kindled with making of flame. The ninth, we continued working on our storehouse, for as yet remained in us a desired resolution of making stay. The tenth, Captain Gosnold fell down with the ship to the little islet of cedars, called Hill's Hap, to take in cedar wood, leaving me and nine more in the fort, only with three meals meat, upon promise to return the next day.
The eleventh, he came not, neither sent, whereupon I com- manded four of my company to seek out for crabs, lobsters, turtles,
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&c. for sustaining us till the ships returned, which was gone clean out of sight, and had the wind chopped up at south-west, with much difficulty would she have been able in short time to have made re- turn. These four purveyers, whom I counselled to keep together for their better safety, divided themselves, two going one way and two another, in search as aforesaid. One of these petty companies was assaulted by four Indians, who with arrows did shoot and hurt one of the two in his side, the other, a lusty and nimble fellow, leaped in and cut their bow strings, whereupon they fled. Being late in the evening, they were driven to lie all night in the woods, not knowing the way home through the thick rubbish, as also the weather somewhat stormy. The want of these sorrowed us much, as not able to conjecture anything of them unless very evil.
The twelfth, those two came unto us again, whereat our joy was increased, yet the want of our Captain, that promised to re- turn, as aforesaid, stuck us in a dumpish terror, for that he per- formed not the same in the space of almost three days. In the meantime we sustained ourselves with alexander and sorrel pot- tage, ground-nuts and tobacco, which gave nature a reasonable content. We heard at last, our Captain to "lewre" unto us, which made such music as sweeter never came unto poor men.
The thirteenth, began some of our company that before vowed to stay, to make revolt: whereupon the planters diminishing, all was given over. The fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth we spent in getting sassafras and firewood of cedar, leaving house and little fort, by ten men in nineteen days sufficient made to harbor twenty persons at least with their necessary provisions.
The seventeenth, we set sail, doubling the Rocks of Eliza- beth's Island, and passing by Dover Cliff, came to anchor at Martha's Vineyard, being five leagues distant from our fort, where we went ashore, and had young cranes, herenshaws and geese, which now were grown to pretty bigness.
The eighteenth, we set sail and bore for England, cutting off
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
our shallop, that was well able to land five and twenty men or more, a boat very necessary for the like occasions. The winds do range most commonly upon this coast in the summer time, westerly.
In our homeward course we observed the foresaid floating weeds to continue till we came within two hundred leagues of Europe.
The three and twentieth of July we came to anchor before Exmouth.
There is a question whether Gosnold's voyage was, as Brere- ton says, sponsored by Sir Walter Ralegh or whether it was an independent venture. Ralegh's own letter gives the impression that it was a contraband expedition which infringed upon his rights.
In writing to Sir Robert Cecil, Ralegh asks that he be given authority to seize certain parts of Captain Gilbert's cargo which had been taken direct to London to be sold by the "Adventurers." As one of Cecil's own men had seized part of this London ship- ment, Raleigh asks that this also be given up.
In his second postscript he says, "Gilbert went without my leave, therefore all is confiscate, and he shall have his part again."
Apparently at the time that Gosnold and Gilbert were at Cuttyhunk Ralegh had another vessel, also collecting "sarsefras," which was about 40 leagues to the westward in "Virginia."
RALEGH TO SECRETARY SIR ROBERT CECIL
Sir,
Whereas as I wrate unto yow in my last that I was gonn to Weymouth, to speake with a pinnes of myne arived from Vir- ginia, I found this bearer, Captayne Gilbert, ther also, who went on the same voyage. Butt myne fell 40 leaugs to the west of it, and this bearer as much to the east: so as neather of them
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EXPLORATION
spake with the peopell. Butt I do sende both the barks away agayne, having saved the charg in sarsephraze woode; butt this bearer bringing sume 2200 waight (or 22cwt.) to Hampton [Southampton ] his Adventurers have taken away their parts, and brought it to London.
I do therefore humblie pray yow to deale with my Lord Ad- mirall for a letter to make seasure of all that which is cume to London, either by his Lordships octoretye or by the Judge: be- cause I have a patent that all shipps and goods are confiscate that shall trade ther, without my leve. And whereas sarsephrase was worth 10 . s, 12 . s, and 20 . s, a pound before Gilbert returned, his cloying of the market will overthrow all myne, and his owne also. He is contented to have all stayde; not only for this present ; butt, being to go agayne, others will also go and distroy the trade, which, otherwize, would yeilde 8 or 10 for on [one] in certenty, and a return in xx weeks.
I desire butt right herein; and my Lord Admirall I hope will not be a hindrance to matter of trade graunted by the Great Seale of Inglande ; his Lordship havinge also freedome and an interest in the countrye.
A man of my Lord's of Hampton, arested part of Gilberts, for the tenths. I hope my Lord will not take it; belonging not to hyme; having also hyme sealf poure [power] to trade ther by his interest. And it were pity to overthrow the enterprize; for I shall yet live to see it an Inglishe nation.
There was also brought 26 sedar trees by Gilbert, which one Staplyne of Dartmouth hath.
If my Lord will vouchsafe to write to C. Harris to seaze them, we will part them in three parts, to seele cabineats, and make bords and many other delicate things. I beseich yow to vouchsauf to speak to my Lord. I know his Lordship will do mee right herein. I, for hast, have not written. For, if a stay be not made, it wilbe spent, and sold unto many hands.
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This bearer Captayne Gilbert, who is my Lord Cobhame's man, will find out where it is. Hee came to mee with your post let- ter. It is hee by a good token, that had the great diamonde. I beseich yow, favor our right; and yow shall see what a prety, honorabell and sauf trade wee will make.
Your's ever to serve yow, W. Ralegh
(Postscript) I hope yow will excuse my cumbersome letters and sutes. It is your destney to be trobled with your frinds, and so must all men bee. Butt what yow think unfitt to be dun for mee shall never be a quarrell, ether internall or externall. I thank yow evermore for the good, and what cannot be effected, fare- well hit!
If wee cannot have what we would, methinks it is a great bonde to finde a frinde that will strayne hyme sealf in his frind's cause in whatsoever, as this world fareth.
Wemouth, this 21 of August (1602)
(Second Postscript)
Gilbert went without my leve, and therefore all is confiscate; and he shall have his part agayne.
Baffled in their first attempt at colonization, Bartholomew Gosnold, Gabriel Archer and John Martin joined the expedition under Captain Christopher Newport which sailed to Virginia in 1606. It is said that Martin was one of Gosnold's former com- pany at "Elizabeth's Isle," and it seems possible that just as Tucker's Terror and Gilbert's Point were so called after mem- bers of the expedition, Martin's Vineyard may have been named for him. Its official name as given by both Archer and Brereton was Martha's Vineyard, and the other may have come into use familiarly among the crew of the Concord, and so the name have been given circulation.
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EXPLORATION
For a year Gosnold, Martin and Archer lived in Jamestown, ' Virginia, then a plague struck the colony and it is said that, "Our men were destroyed with cruell diseases, as swellings, Flixes, Burning Fevers, and by warres, and some departed suddenly, but for the most part they died of meere famine." At this time the two former died, and Archer two years later, also at James- town.
In reply to "a learned gentleman"* who asks his opinion con- cerning the location of places named by Gosnold and his com- panions, James Bowdoin, then [in 1792] owner of Naushon, writes as follows:
JAMES BOWDOIN TO JEREMY BELKNAP
1792
Sir;
Where Bartholomew Gosnold was when he discovered land, that lay north, which by sailing West he quitted, I cannot say; I suppose there must have been some mistake in transcribing this part of the Journal.
On the 15th. of May 1602, which was the day after Gosnolds first discovery of land; having sailed a West course he again had sight of it, & it proved a Cape which he named Cape Cod. This was probably Sandy Point which he passed and anchored within it. On the 12th. & 17th. he caused the coast and sorroundings to be examined and discovered another point, which he called Gilbert Point; This is called Point Gammon alias Hiennes & is part of the town of Yarmouth. The Hills & Hummocks they saw were probably the high lands of Barnstable, Yarmouth & Harwich, many of which resemble one end of an elipse.
On the 19th. 20th. and 21st. they sounded the coast and at- tempted to enter an inlet lying between Gilbert Point and Point Care, but were deterred from it by the shallowness of the water.
* Jeremy Belknap, then engaged in writing his history.
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This inlet I suppose to be Bass River, which also is within the Township of Yarmouth; They then stood a S.W. course and coasting along discovered a "disinhabited Island" which they called Martha's Vineyard which was about eight Leagues from the Shoals lying between the two points afore mentioned, and was in circuit about 5 miles. This Island I suppose to be Nennimesset, the Eastermost of the Elizabeth Islands; They caught Cod near ye Island, landed upon it and killed deer, found the Island pleas- ant, & that it produced gooseberries, strawberries, vines etc. Small Cod of a very excellent kind it is said are occasionally caught near Nennimesset, its circumference is about four miles, but it doubt- less much lessened by the rapidity of the tides and currents; as to its natural Productions and Pleasantness they answer to Gos- nolds descriptions.
I have frequently had deer killed upon it. Perhaps it may not be amiss to observe here that deer have never been known upon the Island which is now called Martha's Vineyard. On the 23rd. they weighed anchor and passed to N.W. side of the Island. On the 24th. they set sail and doubled the Cape of another Island which they call Dover Clift; which is as I suppose the high head land at the East end of a small Island which was named by the Indians Onckery Tonkey, now commonly called Uncle Timmy. They then entered a fair sound, which they called Gosnolds Hope. This is now called Buzzards Bay. The Elizabeth Islands lie East and West nearly Paralel with the shore of the Main, which lies North of the Islands; They passed and anchored within the Cape of another Island, which they name Elizabeth, the Cape is a neck of land called of the inhabitants who live near it, Rattlesnake Neck.
Gosnold gives the distance of the Several Islands which he passed, from each other, and from them to the main land, which very nearly correspond to the actual distances. Hills Hop is now two very small Islands with a few cedar trees upon them which are called the Weepeckets. There is every appearance of their
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EXPLORATION
having been but one Island. Hops Hill is a small elevated Island of a Oval Form which is a conspicuous object to Navigators, and which makes the entrance into the harbors of Wareham & Ro- chester ; they take up their abode upon the West part of the Island of Elizabeth now Naushon, upon a small Island in the center of a large Pond of fresh water about thirty or forty yards from the North shore of the Island; This Representation agrees in all re- spects, except the Rocky Island with a large Pond more than two miles in circumference at the West End of Naushon Island, where the breadth of the Island from Sound to Sound does not exceed a mile. This Rocky Islet is called by John Brereton in his note of the same voyage, a woody ground an acre in quantity; which if it consisted of loose sand, like the ground around the Pond, the wood being doubtless cut by Gosnold and his Shipmates, it very probably was washed away or blown by the wind into the Pond; which will be examined to ascertain whether there is a Bank of sand in the center of it, or not. The growth of wood & of what he called rubbish upon Naushon Island serves further to con- vince me that Gosnold sett down upon the Island as stated in the copy of his Journal you sent to me. It is to be observed that it was not until the 28th. of May that Gosnold appeared to know anything of the Island now called Martha's Vineyard, or that he noticed the Sound now formed by the Vineyard, and the Eliza- beth Islands; that it was probably unknown to him until then is evinced by his observing that the N.E. part of the Island (of Eliza- beth) extended far beyond his ken; which could not have been the case if he had landed upon the Island, now called Martha's Vine- yard, or that he had passed up the Vineyard Sound; which I think a corroborating circumstance, that Nonemesset was ye Island upon which he first landed & which he named Martha's Vineyard.
If the foregoing observations answer the Intentions of your Billet or will be of any service to you in laying open the first settle- ment & History of the Country for which the public is already so
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much indebted to you, I shall be extremely happy, being Very respectfully,
Sir your Obedient Servant,
James Bowdoin.
James Bowdoin in this letter shows his lack of definite knowl- edge of the islands west of Naushon. If he investigated the West End Pond he found no trace of a submerged rocky islet an acre in compass.
The accounts of both Brereton and Archer force upon me one conclusion, that in the year 1602 the sea had not breached the channel of Canapitsit; and Cuttyhunk and Nashawena were one. An Elizabeth's Isle comprising these two islands fits quite ac- curately the descriptions.
Standing upon the northwest hills of Nashawena, overlook- ing Cuttyhunk and the sand spit which even now all but connects these two, you may see spread before you Brereton's graphic picture, "From hence [Martha's Vineyard] we went to another island to the northwest of this, and within a league or two of the main, which we found to be greater than before we imagined, be- ing sixteen English miles at the least in compass; for it contain- eth many pieces or necks of land, which differ nothing from several islands, saving that certain banks of small breadth do like bridges, join them to this island."
The circumference of the two islands would be between 12 and 14 miles. It is quite clear that if a sand spit joined the islands in the 17th Century, any heavy winter storm might have washed a passage which would have deepened to four or five feet in the course of a century or two. The present depth has been attained by dredging in the last few years. Recently this same breaching and washing away of a sand spit has occurred in a far more shel- tered spot, Lackey's Bay. From Gosnold's Pond the northeast end of Nashawena does run out of sight, as here described. "This
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CAUTION
SOUNDINGS IN FEET AT MEAN LOW WATER
Temporary changes affecting Lights Buoys and Day Beacons
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LIGHTS. BEACONS BUOYS, ANO DANGERS CORRECTEO FOR INFORMATION RECEIVEO TO DATE OF ISSUE
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EXPLORATION
island in the western side admitteth some creeks, etc.," would be true of the west end of the combined islands but not of Cuttyhunk alone, and the same holds true in this description: "the breadth from sound to sound in the western part is passing not a mile or so," which applies to Cuttyhunk as the western end of Nashawena, but not to the west end of Cuttyhunk itself.
1603
The year after Gosnold's coming there is the following men- tion of Sir Humphrey Gilbert's expedition under Captain Martin Pring.
Mar. 20 The Bristol men by leave of Sir Walter Ralegh sent Capt. Martin Pring with a small ship of 50 tuns, 30 men and Boys, and William Brown with a bark of 26 tuns, 13 men and a Boy, who then sail from King Road for the further Discovery of North Virginia.
April 10th. they sail from Milford Haven. In June they fall with the Main Coast and a multitude of Islands, in 43 Deg. and 30 meri. N. land upon them, coast along their shoar bare into Cape Cod bay, sail around the Cape, anchor on the south side in 41 deg. and 25 meri. where they land in another bay and excellent Harbour make a Barrica do stay (7?) weeks.
July the Bark goes homeward laden with sassafras, and arrives safe, August 8th the ship sets sail and arrives at King Road again October 2."
Drake tells that sassafras was collected about the islands. Pring found it at what is now Edgartown. ... "The Indians appeared hostile to this company, and caused them to leave the coast, sooner than they would otherwise have done. But this was not without a cause. A canoe had been stolen from them and they were sported with by the sailors, who, to get rid of them, when they had amused themselves sufficiently, would set their dogs to chase them away."
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