USA > Massachusetts > Dukes County > Early History of Naushon Island > Part 5
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
Turning his attention from the region of the St. Lawrence, Samuel de Champlain in 1603 came southward along the coast making a careful exploration. He rounded Cape Cod and gave a detailed account of his landing at Chatham. From here he con- tinued to the south and west and described his route in these words: "Having left Port Fortuné, and gone some six or seven leagues, we sighted an island, which we named La Soupçonneuse,* because from a distance we had several times thought that it was something besides an island. Coasting along to the southwest nearly twelve leagues we passed near a river which is very small and difficult to approach, because of shallows and rocks at its mouth. I gave it my name.
All that we saw of this coast consists of low and sandy lands, which are not lacking in beauty and fertility, although hard to reach. There are no shelters, very many reefs, and there is little water for nearly two leagues from the land. The most that we found was seven or eight fathoms in some channels, although it did not extend more than the length of a cable; then one suddenly returned to two or three fathoms. No one should trust himself to it without having become very familiar with it by taking soundings.
These are all the coasts that we explored, whether in Arcadie or among the Etechemins and Almouchiquois. I made a very exact map of what I saw of them, which I had engraved in the year 1604, and it has since been published with the accounts of my first voyages.
Some writers think that by La Rivier de Champlain the pas- sage of Woods Hole is meant. That a seaman of such powers of observation could record this as a river's mouth seems incredible.
Should a minute study of his sailing directions be made, new light might be shed upon this southernmost limit of Champlain's voyage.
* The doubtful, Martha's Vineyard.
C Porpas.
-
The Lobster
Peninfale
yours for ? Skole
syf baines!
Whitjons bay
Whitjums hed
7 Claudia
C .- Shole
Elizabethas fle
Mart
arthays L'incard.
49
EXPLORATION
Exploration now became more frequent. These shores were touched by Henry Hudson in 1609 and two years later Captains Harlow and Hobson landed upon the Vineyard, as did Captain John Smith.
There is the following description of Block's course in 1611, during which voyage he gave the names Texel and Hendrick Christiaens Iylant to Martha's Vineyard and Noman's Land.
Adriaen Block launched from the sloping shore of what is now the foot of Wall Street, New York, in 1614, a yacht of six- teen tons which he called the Onrest or Restless.
The Onrest became a famous explorer. Block guided her through the eddies of Hell Gate and the waters of the Sound, dis- covered and explored the Quon-take-tu-cut (Connecticut) River and visited the shore and islands of the coast to Nahant Beach, beyond Boston Harbor.
Then Captain Hendreckson took the helm and discovered and explored certain land, a bay and three rivers situate between 38° and 40° by latitude.
The Onrest is said by De Laet to have had 38 feet keel, was 44} feet on deck, and had 11 feet beam. She is reputed the first decked vessel built within the limits of the United States.
The Dutch early in the 17th Century began to take root along the Hudson River, and to investigate and chart the neighboring shores.
The first fairly accurate "Coast Pilots" were compiled by them.
1615 "THE NEW WORLD," DE LAET, 1625-1640
Three leagues to the west of Cape Mallebarre lies an island about two leagues from the shore, and one league in extent, or thereabout but at a distance one might suppose that it was part of the mainland; it was called by some, as I conjecture, Petocke-
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
nock [Nantucket]. In respect to the bearing of the coast in this quarter, I do not find it laid down in any statements of our country- men that have come to my hands.
But a number of islands lie off this coast, as, for instance, one that is commonly called by our Dutch captains, Texel, and by others Cape Ack. It is a large island, and appears white and cliff like, according to the description of Captain Cornelis Jacobsz. May. About a league and a half from the southwest extremity of this island, Texel, lies another small island, which was named by our countrymen Hendrick Christiaens. Island, and by others Marten Vingers Island. In this vicinity are likewise several small islands, called Elizabeth's Islands, which are upon the starboard side in coming from the river or bay of Nassau *; and in order to run on the outside of Hendrick Christiaensz. Island, it is neces- sary to steer a southeast course. Beyond these lies also an island to which our countrymen have given the name of Block's Island, from Captain Adriaen Block. This island and the Texel above mentioned are situated east by north and west by south from one another, and the distance is such that you can see both from the quarter deck when you are half way between.
To the north of these islands and within the mainland, is situated first the river or bay of Nassau, which extends from the above named Block's Island northeast by east and southwest by west. This bay or river of Nassau is very large and wide, and ac- cording to the description of Captain Block is full two leagues in width; it has in the midst of it a number of islands, which one may pass on either side. It extends inward east northeast about eight leagues, but in the rear it is not more than two petard shots wide, and has generally seven, eight, nine, five and four fathoms of water, except in a shallow in the uppermost part of the bay, at the petard shot's distance from an island in that direction where there is but nine feet water. Beyond this shallow we have again
* Nassau - Buzzards Bay.
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EXPLORATION
three and a half fathoms of water; the land in this vicinity appears very fine, and the inhabitants seem sturdy and fairly tall. They are somewhat shy, however, since they are not accustomed to trade with strangers, otherwise there are beaver and fox skins etc. to be had as in other places in that quarter.
The Englishman Dermer in 1619 rounded Cape Cod, was taken prisoner by the natives south of the Cape, escaped and sub- sequently sailed through Long Island Sound.
It is of interest to realize that all of the above mentioned ex- plorers were sailing back and forth along the coast before the arrival of the Pilgrims in the Mayflower.
After the first quarter of the 17th Century many voyages were made. The coast had become familiar and the era of ex- ploration began to merge into that of trade and settlement. Prob- ably the Elizabeth Islands played little part in this development.
Chapter II INDIAN LIFE
I INDIAN life on the islands extended for unnumbered generations into the dim and distant past. The Indians left no written auto- biographies, and all that is known of them comes through the medium of white men. One of the vivid pictures of the natives as seen by the early explorers is given by Verrazano in 1524. From the already quoted letter telling of his voyage along the coast the following extract is taken:
"There were amongst these people two kings of so goodly stature and shape as is possible to declare; the eldest about 40 yeares of age, the second was a young man of about 20 years olde. Their apparell was on this manor; the elder had upon his naked body a Harte skin wrought artificially with divers branches like damaske; his head was bare with the hayre tyed up behind with divers knots; about his necke he had a large chaine, garnished with divers stones of sundry colors; the yong man was almost apparelled after the same manner. This is the goodliest people and of the fairest conditions that we have found in this our voy- age. They exceed us in bigness; they are of the colour of brasse, some of them incline more to whitenesse; others are of yellow colour, of comely visage, with long and black hairs, which they are very careful to trim and deke up; they are black and quicke eyed, and of sweete countenance, imitating much the old fashion . . . they adorn their heads with divers ornaments made of their own haire, which hang down before on both sides their brestes;
53
INDIAN LIFE
others use other kinds of dressing themselves like unto the women of Egypt and Syria, these are of the elder sort. . .. Among whom we saw many plates of wrought copper which they esteem more than golde, which for colour they make no account of, for that among all other it is counted the basest; they make most account of Asure and Red. The things that they esteeme most of all those which we gave them, were bels, christal of Asure colour and toys to hang at their ears and about their necks. They did not desire clothe of silver or golde, much lesse of any other sort, neither cared they for things made of steele and iron, which we often showed them in our armour which they made no wonder at, and in beholding them only asked the art of making them; . . . they are very liberall for they give that which they have; wee became great friends with these, and one day we entered into the Haven with our ship, whereas before we rode a league off at Sea by reason of the contrary weather. . .
"And after wee were come to an ankor wee bestowed 15 days in providing ourselves many necessary things. . .. The queene and her maids stayed in a very light boat, at an Iland a quarter of a league off, while the king abode in our boat. ... And some- times our men staying 2, or 3 days on a little Iland neere the ship for divers necessaries, he returned with 7 or 8 of his gentlemen to see what we did. . .. We were often times within the land 5 or 6 leagues, which we found as pleasant as is possible to declare, very apt for any kind of husbandry of corn, wine and oyle; for that there are plaines 25 or 30 leagues broad, open and without any impediment, of trees of such fruitfulness that any seed being sown therein will bring forth most excellent fruit.
"We entered afterwards into the woods, which we found so great and thicke, that any army were it never so great might have hid itself therein, the trees whereof are oakes, cypresse trees, and other sorts unknown in Europe. We found Pomii appii, damson trees, and nut trees and many sorts of fruit differing from ours ;
54
EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
there are beasts in great abundance, as harts, deere, lucernes and other kinds which they take with nets and bowes which are their chief weapons; the arrows which they use are made with great cunning, and instead of yron they head them with flint, with jasper stone and hard marble and other sharp stones which they use instead of yron to cut trees, and to make their boats of one whole piece of wood, making it hollow with great and wonderful art, wherein 10 or 12 men may sit commodiously; their oares are short and broad at the end, and they use them in the sea without any danger, and by maine force of armes, with as great speedi- ness as they list themselves. We saw their houses made in circular or round forme 10 or 12 paces in compasse, made with half circles of timber, separate one from another without any order of build- ing, covered with mattes of straw wrought cunningly together which save them from wind and rain; and if they had the order of building and perfect skill of workmanship as we have, there were no doubt but that they would also make eftsoons great and stately buildings. For all the sea coasts are full of cleare and glistering stones and alabaster, and therefore it is full of good havens and harboroughs for ships. They move the aforesaid houses from one place to another according to the commodity of the place and sea- son wherein they will make their abode, and only taking off the mattes they have other houses built incontinent. The father and whole family dwell together in one house in great number; in some of them we saw 25 or 30 persons. They feed as the other doe aforesaid of pulse which grows in that Country with better order in husbandry than in the others. They observe in their sowing the course of the Moone and the rising of certain starres, and divers other customes spoken of by antiquity. Moreover they live by hunting and fishing. They live longe and are seldom sicke and if they chance to fall sicke at any time, they heale themselves by fire, without any phisitian, and they say that they die for very age. They are very pitiful and charitable towards their neighbors, they
55
INDIAN LIFE
make great lementations in their adversitie; and in their miserie the kinred reckon up all their felicitie. At their departure out of life, they use mourning mixt with singing, which continueth for a long space. This is as much as we could learn of them."
Perhaps it is typical of the contact of the red man with the white that the first actual records of Indians in connection with Naushon are the transfers of ownership of the island from Seayick Sachem of Monument and Quaquaquinegat Sachem to Thomas Mayhew in 1654 and 1657, the payment to the latter for his title to Naushon being two coats.
While there are no accounts of the Indians' life here, it is evi- dent that their home was upon the inner harbor. Upon the Newkit and other spots near the shore are the remains of shell deposits, proof of long-used camp sites, and an occasional arrow point or stone implement is a reminder of their presence. It seems strange that the age-long culture of the native race has left almost no physical imprint upon the islands. The Indian names, however, remain their one imperishable legacy. Various translations have been made, and some of the interpretations of the Indian mean- ing are here given. They called Naushon Kataymuck or Kato- muck. This is the Indian name most commonly used in early deeds and papers. Other names in ordinary use were Elizabeth's Isle, Winthrop's Island (during the ownership of Wait Win- throp) and most often of all Tarpaulin Cove Island.
Elizabeth's Isle was the name given by Gosnold to Cuttyhunk, in honor of Queen Elizabeth. It was later used for the group as a whole or for Naushon, as being the largest of the islands. While from early times the name Naushon with various spell- ings does occur, it is used sometimes for Nashawena and sometimes as a general term for the whole group. It will be noticed that in the important deeds of the island from the Indians to Mayhew, from Mayhew to Winthrop, and from Winthrop to Bowdoin, the name Naushon does not once appear.
56
EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
The islands in Buzzards Bay are these:
Cuttyhunk, Pennikese, Nashawena, Pasquenese, Great Naushon, Nonamesset, Unkatena and Weepecket.
Nashanow-"It appears that nooshun, with unimportant varia- tions, is used in the superlative degree, 'the best,' 'all in all,' etc. In Mr. Eliot's specimen of the Lord's Prayer it is the be- ginning phrase. And in this sense it is evidently used in the Indian testimony; that is, they meant to say they were 'our fathers' islands and therefore in their own dialect the Nashanow Islands."
Naushon-Derived from Algonquin word meaning "between" and is the basis for such names as Shawmut and Nashua. It alludes to the fact that this chain of islands is between the Bay and the Sound.
Naushon-From Nash-chawan, "Tide rips or currents at each end" (rather than at the sides) .
"Katomuck-(Also spelled Cataymuck and Katamawick) is familiar to the reader and traveler as well as the historian by the name of Naushon. The question will be asked why the natives call it Katomuck, as it appears in the testimony. We can only answer that cautumme is their name for the natural year; hence they gave it to 'planting ground' and the plant- ing season. Was this not therefore in the aboriginal, Planting Island ?"
Katomuck-A great fishing place. Derivation, Kehtamaug, "chief fishing place."
Kitonuck-A ship.
Nanomesset-Has a diminutive termination, and doubtless sig- nifies "little island," from nahan, which occurs in the name for island.
57
INDIAN LIFE
Nonamesset-From Nanah-am-esset, "the little fishing place at the strait."
Uncatena-"Uckatimest was then, it seems, a neck of land. Time has worn a channel, yet it is still [1856] fordable for cattle at low water. This name has a diminutive termination; the first part of the phrase is probably okeh, one of the terms for 'earth or ground'; hence it is a single expression, 'little ground'." Uncatena-Ukattincet or Ukattmest. Derivation seems to be "uhque-kat-amest," which means, "at the extremity of the greatest fishing place."
Monohansett-"At the little island."
Veckatimest-From testimony of "Old Hope," same as Vkati- mest, Uncatena.
Newkit-Probably from the Pequot Nuquit, meaning "one." In dialect of Massachusetts nequit, in Narragansett Nquit, in Mohican Ngwittoh.
Peschameeset-Now called Pasque, has a diminutive termination ; is the Tucker's Island of history.
Pash-kehtan-es-et-Means in Algonquin, "When the sea breaks through or divides."
Nashawena-"Third shell place."
Nasharena-Earliest spelling, "asnawana." Similar to Nau- shon, and was often so called in early times. Also called Slocum's Island.
Cuttyhunk-Perhaps from Ketonk, meaning "to go away." Called Sanford's Island.
Weepeckets-May be derived from "Wabacucks," white-headed eagles which are common on the opposite shores.
Job's Neck-Probably named for Job Antiko.
Undequit's Hill-Situated northwest of Molasses Pond. No explanation.
Ram Islands-So called in deed dated 1761. Perhaps both were included under the title Munhans or Monohansett.
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
Buck Islands-So called in 1856 by Ricketson. Same as Mono- hansett or Ram Islands.
Goat's Neck-Possibly the pasture land of Winthrop's "guinea goots."
The "Indian field" or "fisherman's garden," names for field at the southeast end of Goat's Neck.
Rattlesnake Neck-As early as 1702 John Winthrop tells a legend of "an Indian Powow-meting with some affront from the Indians yt inhabited Naushona Island out of revenge got ye Devell to throw over a Rattlesnake wh increased much and soon after a squaw was bit by one."
The Indians of Gay Head were imaginative and passed down from generation to generation certain legends. Certain giants or spirits were ever hovering in the background of their thoughts. One of these was a giant, Cheepie-Unk. Another giant, Moshup, was said to live in a den near Gay Head. When fog came they said, "Old Moshup is smoking his pipe." Old Squant was the wife of Moshup and legend says their children were turned into killer whales.
GAY HEAD INDIAN LEGEND*
They say that when Moshup was coming here, was on his way to this headland (which was no headland then but a part of the mainland), the way being low and marshy, the great Chief became greatly fatigued. In his weariness he dragged one foot heavily along the marshy ground, and the track thus made was filled by the ocean. At first the little streamlet seemed only a silver thread, but by force of waves and tides and winds it broadened and deep- ened, and in the course of time became the wide opening which now separates the Elizabeth Islands and Noman's Land. Thus it is that these two places form monuments to the geographical change wrought by Moshup's foot.
*As told by M. A. C. Vanderhoof of Gay Head.
59
INDIAN LIFE
But Moshup's rockbound doorstep was his chief delight, and next to his wife and daughter did he worship it. Here he stood in the pleasant air and sunshine, stood and looked dreamily out on the vast expanse of water, the headlands peeping up to keep him company.
One day he decided to go to the isle now called Cuttyhunk. 'Twas only a few steps for one like Moshup, but as he did not wish to wet his feet, he filled his apron with stones and started to build a bridge as he crossed. On he went, dropping a great stone here and there to step upon. Progressing rapidly, soon his "bridge" was nearly completed. Absorbed in his work and un- mindful of things watery or otherwise, he failed to note the approach of a large and watchful sea crab. Suddenly his big toe was caught and held fast in the sea crab's vicelike grip.
The stepping stones were immediately forgotten, never to be thought of again by the Great One. Howling and roaring with pain, Moshup threw and kicked the remaining rocks in every direction, in a wild endeavor to kill the crab or compel it to release its powerful hold. After a furious assault the tenacious crab re- laxed its jaws and poor Moshup limped home with his wounded member.
The old "bridge" is still there, a silent witness to another experience of the great Moshup, though it is now little more than a ledge of sunken rock upon which more than one noble craft has met her doom.
This ledge is known as the Devil's Bridge.
Another version of the crab story is told by John Winthrop, F.R.S.
"Ye natives of ye Elizabeth Island say yt ye Devell was making a stone Bridge over from ye main to Nanamesset Island, and while he was rowling ye stones and placing of them under water a crab catched him by ye fingers, with which he snatched up
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
his hand and flung it towards Nantucket, and ye crabs breed there ever since."
GAY HEAD INDIAN LEGEND
Another legend is to the effect that there were two factions interested in the building of the bridge to Cuttyhunk. Those on one side argued thus, "There are enough of us here now; if the bridge is built we shall be overrun by our neighbors and become crowded." The other said, "We must and shall have a bridge." And so they went to one called Cheepie-Unk. Always willing to be obliging, he consented immediately to do a good, substantial piece of work, and agreed to build a bridge of stone, not a weak, unstable, wooden affair. The other crowd was very angry, but as Cheepie-Unk was to do the work there was apparently nothing to do but submit. Nothing to be done? Wherever there is oppo- sition to a great degree, there is also to be found the cunning of the fox.
Now, it so happened that the compact made with Cheepie- Unk read after this fashion: I, Cheepie-Unk, between the hours of sunset and before cockcrow in the morning, do agree to build a bridge from Aquinnah to Cuttyhunk. If I fail to finish said bridge of stone before cockcrow, this compact is null and void.
However, the cunning children of discontent were watching matters closely. One dark night word was passed around that Cheepie-Unk had begun his work, and true it was. The all-power- ful one had commenced his task with an energy not to be gauged by any known standard. All the tremendous strength and force of his gigantic body were thrown into his work. At last the bridge was well under way, great rock after rock and immense stone after stone was taken up, carried a greater or lesser distance, and dropped into place.
If all went well, before cockcrow the bridge should be in place, there to remain in spite of a definite opposition. Busy Cheepie-
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INDIAN LIFE
Unk had neither thought to give nor time to spend in watching the cunning ones. But to one old lady squaw, whose name has been lost in the mists of the past (it may have been Wawkshus, but it certainly was not Mrs. Moshup, née Squant), a singular fact was well known, and that was this: If a bright light is flashed suddenly before a cock's face, no matter what the hour, he will crow. This old squaw, one of the cunning ones, lighted her torch and waved it where the cock would catch the glare. With flapping wings and outstretched neck, the cock crowed long and loud and lustily.
Cheepie-Unk's work was thereby ended, the bridge was un- finished and the opposition triumphant.
The Indians of Naushon belonged to the Pokanawkets, a sub- division of the Wampanoag tribe which lived in the region about Buzzards Bay. This in turn was one of the many branches of the Algonquin race which occupied the whole of northeastern America.
"The Pawkunnawkutts were a great people heretofore. They lived to the east and northeast of the Narragansetts, and their chief sachem held dominion over divers other petty sagamores; as the sagamores upon the islands of Nantucket and Nope, or Martha's Vineyard, [the Elizabeth Islands ] etc.
"Their country for the most part falls within the jurisdiction of New Plymouth colony. This people were a potent nation in former times, and could raise as the most credible and ancient Indians affirm, about 3000 men. .. . .
"This nation, a very great number of them, were swept away by an epidemical and unwonted sickness, anno 1612 and 1613, about seven or eight years before the English first arrived in these parts to settle the colony of New Plymouth. What this disease was that so generally and mortally swept away not only
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EARLY HISTORY OF NAUSHON ISLAND
these but other Indians their neighbors, I* cannot well learn. Doubtless it was some pestilential disease. I have discoursed with some old Indians, that were then youths, who say that the bodies all over were exceeding yellow, describing it by a yellow garment they showed me, both before their death and after it."
The Island Indians were members of this tribe, and until Christianized, owned fealty to King Philip of Pokanawket during his lifetime.
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