USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Roxbury > Forest Hills cemetery: its establishment, progress, scenery, monuments, etc. > Part 5
USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Forest Hills cemetery: its establishment, progress, scenery, monuments, etc > Part 5
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The eastern entrance is from Canterbury street, through a gateway similar to that on the southern side. The scenery in this vicinity is of the most rural kind. There is a broad plain, or intervale, lying between the Blue Hills on the one side, and the range of which Forest Hills compose a part, on the other, showing well-cultivated farms, wav- ing fields extending up to the woodland at the base of the Blue Hills, and here and there unas- suming farm-houses and generous barns; while in the distance, just seen over the woods, is one of the villages of Milton. The open and cultivated portion of the cemetery grounds extends down to and forms a part of this intervale ; and when it shall be laid out and improved, it will form one of
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the most attractive and beautiful sections of the cemetery. Not being laid out, however, these grounds are not frequented by visitors; yet it is well worth more than a passing glance to behold from the rising ground on this side the charming landscape which is here spread out, especially when the morning or evening sun throws length- ened shadows on the plain. Shut in by the dark back-ground of the Blue Hills, and the woods and eminences on either side, it is a picture of peace and quiet rural life such as is seldom seen in such close proximity to the metropolis.
From the main entrance three avenues diverge towards different parts of the cemetery, that on the right, however, being designed to open into lands which have not yet been added to the grounds. Chestnut Avenue, which leads to the left, passes over a gentle elevation, and thence through the vale of Lake Dell towards Consecra- tion Hill. On the right hand of this avenue, be- fore reaching Lake Dell, rises a rocky eminence, called Snowflake Cliff, from a beautiful wild plant which grows at its base. This cliff is steep and craggy on the northern side, and is thickly cover- ed with trees and underwood ; but on the southern side, where some beautiful burial lots have been laid out, the ascent is quite easy. From the sum- mit of this rock there is a beautiful view of the
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village of Jamaica Plain, and of the wooded hills of Brookline and the country beyond.
Lake Dell is a natural pool thickly overshadow- ed by trees which grow from its banks. On either side an avenue is laid out, and from these the wooded hills rise, enclosing a most quiet and beautiful dell, suggesting the name of the pond. At present little has been done to this part of the cemetery except to lay out the avenues, but when it shall have been improved and cultivated like the southern portion of the grounds, it will be no less beautiful than that, while it will possess some peculiar charms. It was originally intended to deepen and beautify this pond, but its springs are so sluggish that it might be necessary to introduce water from some other source, in order to afford a supply and to keep it pure. This was suggest- ed, in the first annual report of the commissioners, by Gen. Dearborn, who, anticipating the necessity of such a supply, did not hesitate to propose the introduction of water by artificial means at some future time, which, after supplying Lake Dell, should flow thence by a cascade into other ponds, to be excavated in the low land east of it. Since this suggestion, however, a different plan has been adopted with regard to the lakes, and the abun- dant springs in Lake Hibiscus renders it unneces-
1
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sary to seek a foreign supply, which could only be done at great expense.
It is now proposed that Lake Dell, which, sup- plied by its own springs alone, would be little better than a stagnant or grassy pool, should be filled up. The westerly end has already been filled, and a large receiving tomb has been con- structed on the land so made. The tomb is cov- ered with earth, forming a high mound, through which the trees which were formerly by the bor- ders of the pond now grow, giving it the appear- ance of a natural formation, or one constructed so long ago that it is shaded by the natural growth of wood upon its sides. Should the remainder of the pond be filled, it is suggested that the chapel -the erection of which is contemplated -should be built upon this site. A more beautiful and appropriate site for such an edifice could hardly be selected in any part of the grounds. The quiet and beautiful dell, surrounded by solemn shadows, would be a fitting spot for a temple dedicated to the last rites which the living per- form for the dead, and a modest and appropriate Gothic chapel would be a beautiful object in such scenery. The situation possesses other advan- tages, it being quite near the entrance, while an avenue passing on each side would render it more accessible and convenient for use.
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The hill rising on the north of Lake Dell is de- signated as Chapel Hill, and here it was at first proposed to erect a chapel. This hill still lies in its natural state, except that on one side a deep excavation has been made for the purpose of ob- taining materials for making avenues. This exca- vation is suggested by the superintendent as a site for a new receiving tomb of larger dimensions than those already constructed, which will be needed before many years. When the tomb is built, the ground might be put into its original shape, and trees planted so as to conceal entirely the purpose to which it is appropriated. The formation of this hill and its position are not very well adapted for the erection of a chapel, although in the laying out of the grounds it was designa- ted for that purpose. The dell is a much better site, more beautiful and picturesque, as well as more accessible. But the sides of Chapel Hill (which name would still be appropriate were the chapel erected in the dell at its base,) would afford numerous beautiful burial lots.
From the eastern end of Lake Dell, Magnolia Avenue leads to the summit of Consecration Hill, which rises in an angle of the cemetery, and touches its northern and eastern boundaries. As its name indicates, the consecration services were performed here, at the foot of its southern slope,
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while the audience which was gathered there on that day were ranged upon the hill-side. Conse- cration Hill is one of the highest of the Forest Hills, and from its summit is a beautiful prospect. Through the vistas of the trees there are charm- ing views of the Blue Hills and the intervening valley, and in other directions of hills and plains, of farm-houses, villas and cottages, with here and there a church spire rising above the distant woods. From a rustic observatory, which was constructed about the trunks of some high trees in the early days of the cemetery, there was a still more extensive prospect, and in one direction might be caught a glimpse of the blue waters of the bay, adding still more to the variety of the panorama of wild and cultivated beauty such as is seldom surpassed. The foliage has, however, closed up the vistas which had been cut through the trees, and the view from the surface of the ground is now the finest. It has been suggested, that when the funds of the cemetery should per- mit it, a durable stone tower might be erected here. But it is not to be forgotten that these grounds are not a park for mere pleasure, and though it may be desirable to surround the grave with so much of beauty and adorn it with so much of art, the cemetery should never be made simply a pleasure-ground, nor its improvements or struc-
H
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tures be such as have no connection with its sacred purpose.
Following Rock Maple Avenue, the visitor is led from the eastern end of Lake Dell around the base of Mount Warren, which rises on the right, for the most part regularly but steeply, with here and there large boulders protruding above the surface. The side of Mount Warren is clothed with a thick growth of wood, and this avenue, in the afternoon especially, lies in deep shadow under the foliage. Curving around the foot of the hill it is a pleasant approach to some of the more attractive spots in the cemetery, and leads direct- ly to the pleasant dell at the foot of Mount Dear- born and Fountain Hill. In this dell there is a little nook, which seems almost a grotto under the overhanging foliage of trees and shrubs, that grow on the precipitous sides of Fountain Hill. The deep shadows seem to spread a refreshing coolness around, and invite one to rest on the garden-seats, which are disposed on one side, while on the other is a rustic fountain - a natural spring, over which is erected a covering of rough stones. The stones are clothed with lichens, and in the interstices are planted moss, brakes, and other wild plants, the whole forming a pretty rustic monument. On the upper stone is fixed a
WILLDATE
AYLEL
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FOUNTAIN DELL
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bronze plate bearing the following words, by which the refreshing waters of the spring utter a lesson which, perhaps, is not always unheeded by those who linger about this beautiful spot :-
" WHOSOEVER DRINKETH OF THIS WATER WILL THIRST AGAIN ; BUT THE WATER THAT I SHALL GIVE, WILL BE IN HIM A WELL OF WATER SPRINGING UP INTO EVERLASTING LIFE."
From this vicinity two avenues lead up, through natural depressions, or original water-courses, to the higher plain of the cemetery, one on each side of Mount Dearborn, which juts out like a rocky promontory between these avenues. The eastern side of this hill is very rough and precipitous, huge boulders being piled one above another, in fantastic shapes, clothed with shrubbery which grows in the fissures of the stones, and shaded by trees which have found root beneath them. From the vicinity of the fountain, or as approached through Rock Maple Avenue, this hill presents a picturesque appearance and a beautiful variation from the scenery of other portions of the grounds.
From the Fountain dell a steep path leads up the southern side of Mount Dearborn, and then up its more gentle western slope to the top. As seen from the plain on the west of the hill, it ap-
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pears to be only a slight elevation, but it rises to a considerable height above the low land on the opposite side. On the summit is the monument erected by his friends and fellow-citizens as a tri- bute to the memory of Gen. Dearborn, mention of which is made in another place. The prospect from this hill is not very extensive, but glimpses may be had of some of the most finished and beau- tiful portions of the cemetery. The level ground between Mount Dearborn and Eliot Hills, which rise opposite on the west, was the first to be se- lected for burial lots and prepared for use. It is all finished, and the time which has elapsed since the improvements were made, has afforded growth to the trees and shrubs, and rendered the aspect of the place more beautiful, so that it is literally a garden of the dead, blooming with lovely flow- ers or shadowed by the luxuriant foliage of va- rious species of trees. On the opposite side, through the openings of the foliage, is a view of Lake Hibiscus, and over the hill southeast of that the Bluc Hills are again seen.
It is a quiet and beautiful spot, and the associ- ations of the place seem to impress themselves on the mind more deeply here, than in any other portion of the cemetery; for here rest the re- mains of him who with untiring devotion laid out the grounds, and developed and increased their
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beauty, and the mind is thus led directly from the contemplation of the lasting beauties of the place to thoughts of its sacred purpose, of the fleeting life of man, of the repose that here awaits his ashes, and of the hopes beyond the grave.
From the dell which divides Mount Dearborn from Mount Warren, an avenue leads, by a some- what steep ascent, to the top of the latter, which is, in fact, rather table-land than a hill. A more pleasing approach to it is from the main entrance, by Locust Avenue to Mount Warren Avenue. This hill, though lots were not much sought for here, at first, has become one of the most beauti- ful and attractive portions of the cemetery, nearly all of its surface, except the steep slopes on the north and east, being laid out in burial lots, and tastefully embellished. The prospect from Mount Warren is more limited than that from some of the other hills, owing to the growth of the trees which skirt its sides. But here and there through the trees a distant picture of rural scenery may be seen, or a nearer one of some beautiful spot in the cemetery, with the marble monuments gleam- ing among the foliage and flowers.
A large part of the table land on Mount War- ren is more open than most parts of the cemetery, it having been found necessary to remove the trees in preparing the grounds. This affordsa H*
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variety to the scenery, which it is hoped may not be altogether lost by the growth of planted trees. There are also on different parts of this hill pic- turesque rocks and boulders which add to the beauties of the place. One of these, a very large boulder evidently split off from another large rock which has been removed, is on the southern slope of the hill. When the adjacent rocks were removed, it was found that this boulder could easily be moved on its foundation, so as to rock or sway several inches. Lest it should be thrown out of place, it has been fixed firmly. It forms a picturesque object in the scenery, over which creeping plants may be trained to clothe its rough proportions with graceful foliage.
Another of these boulders is on the burial lot of the Warren family, on the summit of Mount Warren. It is an irregular block with a level top, and seems to be designed by nature for a pedestal. To such purpose it has been suggested that it be appropriated at some time -may we hope, not far distant ? In the first annual report of the commissioners, Gen. Dearborn suggested the propriety of erecting a bronze statue of Major General Joseph Warren, in some fitting place on this hill, which is named in honor of that illustri- ous man. It is a duty and a privilege to commem- orate the worth and services of those who have
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been distinguished in their time, and surely War- ren is entitled to such an honor in the garden cemetery of his birth-place and home. A bronze statue * would be a fitting monument to commem- orate the character and patriotism of such a man, and were one erected on the pedestal which nature has here offered, it would add much to the interest attached to the cemetery, and would be regarded as a shrine to be visited and honored so long as worth, patriotism and heroism shall excite the admiration or reverence of man. The ashes of General Warren, with others of the family, have recently been taken from their original resting- place, deposited in urns, and re-interred in this lot; so that these grounds are in fact the shrine which contains his sacred remains.
On the west of Mount Warren the ground falls away as far as the cemetery fence, and beyond ; and a dell is here formed which will sometime be a beautiful part of the grounds. Clematis Path
* The Crayon, in speaking of monuments, expresses sur- prise that there is not more attention paid to works in bronze for monumental purposes, so peculiarly adapted as the material is to our changeable climate. "For ceme- teries, it is especially serviceable, and we would carnestly invite attention to it, among other materials, as one of the best, not only on the score of its durability, but for its intrinsic qualities, as a very superior medium for the expres- sion of Art-thoughts."
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now leads through the upper portion of it up to the plain towards the Eliot Hills. At the back of the lots which front on one side of this path there is a terrace of rough stone-work, in the interstices of which are planted brakes and other wild plants, with moss, which give it a rustic finish and beauty.
The Eliot Hills, which take their name from the Apostle Eliot, are four eminences in the south- western part of the cemetery ; or, more correctly, there is but one hill, having several small ridges or undulations near its summit. A large part of this hill is of rocky formation, and was somewhat rough and unpromising in its original aspect, for cemetery purposes. But it has changed to a most attractive spot, and some of the most finished and beautiful lots have been laid out upon its sides. From some of its shady paths you can look out over the garden-like grounds of the plain or gentle slope below, but there is no extensive prospect except from the northern side, where a pleasant view opens towards Brookline, and through a narrow vista far away to Cambridge and the hills beyond.
The summit of this hill is of solid rock. Here it is proposed to erect a monument to commemo- rate the virtues and labors of the devoted Eliot, who for nearly sixty years was the pastor of the First Church in Roxbury, who with so much of
VIEW SOUTH OF ELIOT HILLS.
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self-sacrifice and untiring energy sought to civil- ize and Christianize the savage, and who so truly earned the noble title of " Apostle to the Indians." In 1850, some preliminary measures were taken to secure funds for the erection of such a monu- ment; a committee for that purpose was appoint- ed, and other steps were taken to awaken an interest in the work. Among those who engaged in the good cause was Gen. Dearborn, who pre- pared a sketch of the life of Eliot, which was printed for distribution. He also designed a monument,* an engraving of which accompanied the sketch of the life. Some progress was made in raising the necessary funds, but the work was for some reason suspended before it was near done, and thus it remains at this day. The pious intention, however, is not abandoned, and the work will in time be accomplished. The sooner it is done the more creditable will it be to the present generation, and that the memory of Eliot should have been suffered to remain unhonored during nearly two centuries, reflects but little credit on the people who have dwelt amid the scenes of his labors. For it is to such men that monuments are due.
* This design is a Corinthian column surmounted by an urn; the whole forty-two feet high. A design more appro- priate to the subject might, perhaps, be selected.
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On the south of Mount Dearborn is another ele- vation of about the same height, which is called Fountain Hill, from the spring at its base, before alluded to. On the side of the Fountain dell this hill is very precipitous and thickly covered with trees and underwood. The eastern and south- eastern slopes are quite steep, but much less rug- ged and precipitous. Down its sides paths lead to Fountain Dell, and towards Lake Hibiscus, which can be seen gleaming through the foliage. Towards the south a path of more gentle descent, overlooking the lake, leads down to the grounds in the vicinity of the Field of Machpelah. For a portion of the distance the outer side of this path is supported by a rough wall, through which arbor vitæ and other trees have been made to grow, the roots being planted below the wall. These trees, when they shall attain a larger growth, will add much to the picturesque beauty of this hill- side. The prospect from Fountain Hill is not very extensive; but on the south you can catch glimpses of a pleasant landscape, and there are on the opposite side views of beautiful spots in the cemetery grounds, down the gentle slope towards the Eliot Hills, and on Mount Dearborn.
Towards the west this hill extends out into a table land, or rather a ridge, which slopes very gently down to the foot of Eliot Hills. The
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southern side of this ridge has been built up with a wall of rough stone-work, which forms a terrace extending from Fountain Hill nearly to the south- ern entrance of the cemetery. Along this terrace there is a beautiful prospect towards the south, looking directly over the Field of Machpelah to the hills and woods which stretch away to the Blue range.
This gentle slope between the terrace and Eliot Hills is admirably adapted to the purposes of the cemetery, and admirably has it been improved. On a portion of it there was originally a thick grove of pines, whose deep and solemn shadows seemed to offer a quiet and sacred resting-place for the dead, where endless requiems might be sighed above them. Those deep shadows are gone now. In preparing the grounds for burial lots, it was necessary to remove a large portion of these evergreens, and those which remain seem to miss the companionship of their lost fellows. Some of them, however, are still beau- tiful trees, and each year is compensating in some degree for the loss of those removed. New trees are growing up, and though the solemn aisles of the original grove cannot be restored, a more artificial beauty has been developed, in which shrubs and flowers form a conspicuous feature.
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Into this portion of the cemetery the southern entrance opens, and in the vicinity of the gateway the pine grove retains more of its original solemn beauty. Down the avenue which leads from this gateway to Walk Hill street, with its thick ever- greens, is a view through the long vista which is sure to attract the eye.
South of the terrace above-named, is a valley which was originally quite low and descended to a meadow on one side. At the right, on the higher part of this vale, is the " Field of Machpe- lah," enclosed with an evergreen hedge, laid out neatly with rectangular walks, and adorned with trees, shrubbery and flowers. The care bestowed upon it has already made it an attractive spot, which will increase in beauty as nature aids the efforts of art and the trees attain a larger growth. The lower part of this valley has been filled up to a considerable depth, even down to the vicinity of the pond, and it has been laid out and embel- lished so as to be one of the most garden-like spots in the cemetery. The improvements are being rapidly extended in this direction towards the summit of Cypress Hill and to the southern boundary of the grounds; and art and labor have already accomplished so much, that no unseemly gap is left here, as the original aspect of the ground threatened, between those parts of the
FIELD OF MACHPELAH.
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cemetery which nature rendered more attractive, and more easy of improvement.
Cypress Hill, which is the first elevation on the open portion of the cemetery, immediately over- looks the quiet plain of " Canterbury " and a por- tion of the neighboring cemetery of Mount Hope -the pleasant landscape repeatedly alluded to in these pages. On the opposite side there are views of different portions of the cemetery grounds. There are but few trees on this hill, except those recently planted, but there is a quiet charm about the spot, even in its openness and want of shade, so favorable for the distant pros- pect, that makes it one of the attractive localities of the cemetery.
East of Cypress Hill extend the open grounds, presenting an undulating surface, -gentle swells of land, which gradually descend to the fertile plain near the eastern boundary. A part of this ground has been planted with numerous trees, but for the most part it yet appears open and unshad- ed; but it offers an admirable opportunity for the art of the landscape gardener, who may convert it, after a time, into the most beautiful part of the cemetery. It is to be hoped that this whole sur- face will not be thickly planted with trees, but that it may be varied with picturesque groups and open ground, with here and there single trees having
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ample room to attain a noble size, so as to pre- sent everywhere a pleasing variety of scenery.
Lake Hibiscus, already an attractive feature, promises to be one of the chief beauties of Forest Hills. It lies a short distance east of Fountain Hill, and is approached by avenues from different parts of the cemetery. This pond is excavated in what was formerly a meadow, supplied with copious springs of water, which flowed off in a small stream towards the north. It is of an ir- regular form, and when completed according to the proposed plan, will cover an area of about three acres. In it two islands have been formed, one of which contains a copious and never-failing spring of crystal water, which gushes up through the pebbly bottom of a little basin. Unfortunate- ly for appearances, the basin has been recently covered, and a chain-pump introduced for utility's sake. About the island birches are planted, and willows are trained across the rustic bridge by which it is reached. This island is a favorite re- sort for visitors, who gather here to watch the graceful swans and the snowy ducks, as they sail about their domain. The beautiful swans,* espe- cially, are always objects of interest, and are
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