USA > Massachusetts > Franklin County > Leyden > History of Leyden, Massachusetts, 1676-1959 > Part 13
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In time, the claim was purchased by the Miners of West Ley- den. Fifty picks and fifty shovels were ordered, but progress was so slow without modern drilling tools that the project soon was abandoned.
In his Centennial address, C. W. Severance stated that the ore from this mine contained, besides copper, "a fair percentage of gold and silver." Harold Campbell of Leyden bears out this statement. He says that Mr. Tilden once presented him with a fine specimen of Leyden quartz rock with a vein of gold run- ning through it.
This mine, though partly filled in, still is visible. It is in one of the wildest sections of the area, one half mile west of the River Road. In this region, experts with Geiger counters recently located radio-active elements.
The Leyden Library Association-The Robertson Library: In 1913, on land donated by A. J. Shattuck "so long as it shall be used for a Library," James P. Robertson of New York erected the present Leyden Library building. It is a one-room structure with native stone fireplace and large picture window which looks eastward toward Leyden's high hills. The library was dedicated to Mr. Robertson's Leyden parents, Roswell Robertson and Mary (Wheeler) Robertson.
The Leyden Library Association was formed April 4, 1883, with Chester W. Severance as first president. Its purpose was "to promote the growth of morality and insure a higher intellec-
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tual standard in Leyden." The first books for the library were kept upstairs over Mrs. Mowry's general store. In 1885, however, with a list of over 50 members, the library was moved to the selectmen's room in the new Town Hall. Mrs. Harris Newcomb was appointed librarian.
Early Leyden library books were loaned out "one to a cus- tomer" and in the flyleaf of each book appeared this forbidding notice: "Whoever willfully or maliciously or wantonly writes upon, injures, defaces, tears or destroys any book, plate or en- graving belonging to this Library shall be punished by a fine of not less than five nor more than Fifty Dollars, or by imprisonment in the jail, not exceeding six months."
In 1917, a fine microscope was donated to the library by Ada Darling "for the children of the town." The instrument was for- merly the property of Fred O. Darling, who lived on the old Budington place. In 1925, Eva Carey Watson of Montague pre- sented the Library with the valuable Rufus Thornton collection. These books were placed in the Leyden Library by Emily Ewer and Gratia Campbell, Library Trustees.
In 1938, there were 2260 books in the library, with 38% of the townspeople using them. The pioneer Leyden families of Newcomb, Davenport, Mowry and Miner were represented by Leyden's librarians. The present library head, Edith M. Howes, has been Leyden's book custodian for over 25 years.
Television and radio have cut into reading inclinations, and the small hill town libraries have suffered noticeably from the intellectual reverse. However, it is now reported that a reaction has set in and particularly energetic librarians in the hill towns are beginning to woo back some of their "wandering sheep."
Leyden-1915: With the advent of the popular automobile during the early days of World War I, the steepest roads in hill country were re-graded, or routes were changed to accomodate the limitations of the "Model T." Thus it was that Leyden's origi- nal Eden Trail was re-routed at this time from the picturesque and beautiful, to the more "navigable" line of communication. In West Leyden, final readjustments in the Colrain boundary were made in July 1915.
This same year, the merchants of Greenfield organized a soft drink business, with Leyden's pure water as a base. Though the ten-flavored assortment retained a semblance of its basic purity through the name "Glen Brook Soda," the soda itself completely camouflaged the water from the "Falls of Leyden,"
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and large cases of the rainbow-colored concoctions were deliver- ed, without apology, to the Leyden country store. During the early days of Sunday driving and roadside stands, the Glen Soda business prospered, but in time business declined, and now both Leydenites and Greenfield people drink their Glen Brook water straight!
Leyden in World War I: With the entry of the United States into the world conflict in April 1917, despite President Wilson's efforts toward peace, the picture changed. The popular tune "When You Wore a Tulip" changed over night to "Johnny Get Your Gun," "Over There" and "Keep the Home Fires Burning." Thirteen Leyden men responded to the call for enlistees, while those at home increased their farm output, bought Liberty Bonds and sedulously observed "meatless and wheatless days" each week.
Today, just north of the Leyden Church, there stands a rough granite boulder with bronze plaque which reads: "Honored Men of Leyden who Served - 1917-1919." The names on the plaque are: Edward R. Frizzell, Ray D. Miller, Edward Benway, Michael S. Muka, George D. Rowe, Fred G. Staiger, John Staiger, George Smilley, Earl P. Tabor, Joseph Wentworth, Herman A. Wiemers, Ray B. Wood and Arthur Woodard. Edric W. Cook of Leyden served in the Near East during this conflict, while Edward Smith put in two years as an Air Force pilot in France. Stanley Richard- son also is a veteran of World War I.
It may be noted, that in Leyden as in most New England communities, representatives from the oldest colonial families, and recent citizens from the Continent, are listed together on the same service roster.
CHAPTER IX
Leyden - 1919 - 1945
DI uring the post-war years, while President Wilson battled for United States membership in the League of Nations, Leyden and other like New England towns, kept to a pattern of simple pastoral life, free from "entangling alliances." Because of its hill- top position, it was not invaded by those who would exploit its history, nor did "summer people" take over its leading home- steads.
Reflecting the "jazz age," the young people (and the old, too) rode around in shiny new cars and saw more of the neigh- boring country in one Summer than their forebears had seen of it in a lifetime.
Radio, first introduced into Leyden in 1921, caught on fast, and soon many residents were tuning in distant cities hitherto but vague names in geography books. Spencer C. Howes put Leyden on the radio map by obtaining a license to operate ama- teur station WIARH. Soon such popular radio tunes as "Whis- pering," "Who?" and "Sitting on Top of the World" were whis- tled or hummed in all the fields and savory kitchens of the town.
In 1922, the first Russians, Leo and Mary Melelica, settled in Leyden. Their appearance at this time was perhaps an indirect reflection of the storms and social upheavals which had beset their native land since 1917.
Since Leyden depended neither on industry nor manufactur- ing, the great depression which followed the Coolidge-Hoover administrations in 1929 did not affect the hill town to any great extent, though there was some deterioration in farm property during this critical period. In 1930 the Town Hall burned but was soon replaced by a new building nearly opposite the Church.
In 1932, as the New Deal was about to enter the picture, the first electric power was introduced to south and central Leyden. This date coincided with the electrification of other hill towns in the area.
1935-The Leyden Post Office in Retrospect: Soon after the introduction of the Works Project Administration, W. P. A. pro- grams were hesitantly adopted in many of the rock-ribbed hill towns of New England. Leyden, perhaps at the nadir of its exis-
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tence at this time, did not benefit from these programs as did its urban neighbors. In fact, Leyden (and other hill towns like it) became a victim of government economy moves. On November 30, 1935, the Leyden Post Office, active for over 107 years, ceas- ed to exist. And in losing its Post Office, the town lost something of its identity in the world-an identity which we sincerely hope will be regained in the years to come.
Looking back on the history of the Leyden Post Office, we find some colorful stories of the early mail service in the area. C. W. Severance recounts that "in the early days" the mail was brought to Leyden from Greenfield by any resident who hap- pened along. The bundle of Leyden newspapers was labelled "Peleg Babcock" with each subscriber's name on his paper. But on the news sheet of the man who was to go for the next mail was written: "Your Turn Next."
According to John H. Newcomb, the first Leyden Post Of- fice was in the general store, south of the Tavern. Reuben Shel- don became the first Postmaster on January 10, 1828. There was then one mail in and one mail out of Leyden each week. Eighteen postmasters followed Sheldon. These included Benjamin Coolidge who took office after Sheldon in 1840; Abel Carpenter took over in 1843; Edwin C. Cross in 1849; John Mowry, in 1850; Albert Field in 1857; Thos. Vining, 1861; Benj. Taylor, 1865; Nancy Vin- ing, 1866; Uriah T. Darling, Jr., 1878; Manley Mowry, 1883; Lilla Mowry, 1892; M. Dayton Miner, 1901; Elsie Miner, 1913; Alice Min- er, 1922; Laura Smith, 1922; Chas. Severance, 1925; Edith Howes, 1934.
On November 2, 1896, the first Rural Free Delivery service of this area and the fourth in the United States, was established. In 1900, an R.F.D. route was run out of Bernardston to East Leyden, but no R.F.D. service from the Leyden Post Office was established until 1921 when Charles Bolton was assigned to serve as Leyden's R.F.D. carrier-a post he filled till the close of the Leyden office in 1935. At the same time, a Star Route from Greenfield to south and central Leyden was covered by George Staiger. After more than 23 years in the Staiger family, this route was taken over by Philip Koshinsky in 1951.
Before the advent of R.F.D. service, that is, before 1896, Ley- den had two post offices - the main office in the center and a branch office near the bridge in West Leyden. It was at this branch office that assistant postmistress, Nettie Denison, made
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herself particularly popular with the children by handing out sugar plums and cookies along with the mail.
Mail deliveries in Leyden are more difficult than in most ru- ral areas because of the precipitous hills on which the town is located. In 1833, Reuben Sheldon, purchased a one-horse sleigh and a wagon for $44 presumably to facilitate mail deliveries in winter and summer to the more remote parts of town. Sheldon's was not an official R. F. D. or Star Route, but was the beginning of a private delivery system whereby mail was delivered to favored citizens-for a price.
By 1858 the Post Office had been moved to the "New Cen- ter" and was in the country store of R. H. Taylor. That was the period when only one mail was delivered each week. By 1909, however, history records there was one daily mail in and out of Leyden in addition to R.F.D. service through which a majority of the townsmen received their mail at the door. During this period, East Leyden was served from Bernardston. West Leyden was served from the central Leyden office by a Star Route covered successively by Frank Foster, Albert Shattuck, Titus Williams, Stebbins Severance, John Newcomb and Will Smith.
After the closing of the Leyden office in 1935, the town was served by the Greenfield Star Route and by the R. F. D. from Bernardston. This latter route was covered for many years by Leon Nelson, with donkey and sleigh or cart. It's said that one hard winter when the snow was piled sky-high, only the tips of the donkey's ears could be seen as he plodded along the East Hill mail route. When Mr. Nelson retired, he became so homesick for the Leyden hills, he sometimes drove over the accustomed roads in the dead of night.
In 1941, Fred G. Huber of Northfield took over the Ley- den R. F. D. covering Eden Trail, Beaver Meadow and West Ley- den. Though a difficult run in winter, Mr. Huber has maintained a fine record for mail deliveries, and typical of the best of mail carriers, never refuses to do a kindly errand.
1941 - Leyden Church Centennial with Background Church History: Early in 1941, an elaborate program for cele- brating the Centennial of the Leyden Methodist Church was drawn up by leading members of the congregation. Special Sun- day evening services were planned from June 22 though August 10th. The church itself was to be renovated, inside and out; an Old Home Sunday with "two great preaching services" was planned, and a secular celebration for Labor Day was mapped
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out. In conclusion, a souvenir booklet was proposed to out- line the history of the Methodist and other Leyden churches. From this booklet and from other ecclesiastical town sources, the following church history has been developed.
RX.R.
HOUSE
LEYDEN MEETING 1841 - - 1941
As early as 1780, the first Leyden Baptist group was organ- ized under the leadership of Elder Joseph Green of Rhode Island. Having no church in which to worship, initial meetings were held in private homes, in barns and groves, or at the well-known Meetinghouse Rock. Meeting places, it is recorded, sometimes were lighted by great burning pine knots.
The first reference to a Leyden meeting house is found in the October 1785 town records when it was voted "to see if the people will agree to build a meetinghouse ... and if so what measures they will take and where they will sit it."
As early as 1786, it was proposed to do something about leasing out the Ministry Lot, presumably to raise money for the meeting house. This Ministry Lot was in the eastern part of town, near the head of Eden Trail. It was on high, rocky ground, and though near the center of the original Fall Town grant, was not a suitable spot for a church in 1785 because of the shifting centers of population.
In 1795 the Leyden District voted to raise 350 pounds to build a meeting house. It was in March 1796 that "a structure 40 ft wide and 50 ft long with two convenient stories" was proposed. This building was to "sit" near Richard Grinnels house, opposite the Tavern. When disputes arose as to the location, a com-
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mittee from outside Leyden was called in to arbitrate the issue. Reflecting probable Dorrilite interference at this time, it was decided soon after, to reconsider all votes that had been passed respecting a meeting house or its location.
Meanwhile, a company of townsmen, tired of fruitless wrangling, got together under the name of Meeting House Pro- prietors and in 1797 erected the first Leyden church-meeting house on a high point half a mile southwest of the present cen- ter. Uriah Wilbur, Ezra Foster, Benjamin Green and Abel Car- penter headed the building committee. In October, 1797, Leyden voted to raise $1,000. for the purchase of the new structure, but a month later this vote was reconsidered. Again, the Dorrilites appear to have been on the offensive. Outstanding members of this renegade clan were in town politics and an established church center could easily become a rival to Dorrilite ambitions.
Despite this opposition, however, arrangements with the meeting house proprietors were finally made for renting the new building. On March 5, 1798, the first Town Meeting was held in the structure; and soon after this, the first church services were conducted therein by the new pastor, Asa Hebard, who had filled the place of the deceased Elder Green.
It may be remembered that in early New England, the Meeting House was used both for Sunday services and town meetings. According to George Sheldon in the History of Deer- field, the colonial Meeting House also was used to store emer- gency gunpowder either under the pulpit or in the steeple! As we have already noted, Leyden was no exception to this "safety" measure.
The only record of the old Leyden Meeting House interior appears in an 1815 deed from Benjamin Green to James Packer in which Green sells to Packer for $35.00 "all rights in the Meet- ing House in Leyden, and the land belonging to same, with one undivided half of pew #2 on the lower floor and one eighth part of the two front pews in the Gallery." In 1816, Simeon Wells sold to John Corse, the grandfather of "Milwaukee Har- riet" seat #1 on the lower floor for $30. These two deeds indicate there were church pews on the lower floor as well as in the gallery, but apart from this, we have no other descrip- tions of the building. Today, the old Meeting House, stript of its church "vestments," is used as a barn on the Mowry Mountain Road where it was moved soon after the Civil War.
The Elder Asa Hebard, who took over the reins of the
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Leyden church in 1798, recorded the following family history: "Asa Hebard, born in Windham Conn, 1755, married Jan. 1, 1783, in Norwich, Conn, Abigail Armstrong, born April 21, 1762 in Norwich. Elder Hebard & family came to Leyden from Putney Vt. & took over the Pastoral care of the Church & People of Leyden, April 25th 1798."
During his pastorate, the Rev. Hebard, who resided in West Leyden on Hebard Brook, preached in the Leyden Meeting House on alternate Sundays-first to the Baptists, then to the pioneer Universalists. Apparently the Rev. Hebard was a diplomat as well as a man of God. He preached in Leyden until his death in 1830, after which time the local Baptist church began to disintegrate.
While the Baptists formed the only church group during the formative years of the town, the Methodists began to organize early in the 19th Century - about 1810 to be exact. Having no place in which to worship, the Methodists, like the early Baptists met in private dwellings, barns, schoolhouses and groves. The meeting of early Leyden churchgoers in woods and groves suggested the name "Church Woods" for the Leyden plan which combines conservation, with reverence for the purity and wholeness of unobstructed nature.
In 1841, thirty-eight members of the Methodist Episcopal Church raised sufficient funds for the erection of a Methodist Meeting House, with Jonathan Budington heading the list. Among other prominent family subscribers were the Severances, Frizzells, Chapins, Potters, Shattucks, Wilkins, Fosters, New- combs, Wilburs, Denisons and Sheldons.
It is particularly interesting to note that Stephen Dorril, son of the founder of the rebel Dorrilites, is listed among the Metho- dist church subscribers. In fact, a number of full-fledged Dor- rilites, including Amos Burrows of Leyden and Bernardston, joined orthodox churches, despite the popular belief that one- time Dorrilites never became members of the church.
By 1842, the Methodist Church was completed at a cost of $1500. But soon difficulties arose. A split occurred over the question of slavery, and the Methodist Episcopal became the Wesleyan Methodist with the Reverend John Tate as pastor. C. W. Severance writes of this period: "The house at Packer's Corner was used for meetings during the great church reforma- tion." The "house" was just over the Vermont line on Ethan Allen Highway. Severance also states that the Reverend Sabin
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Clark was the first Methodist preacher in 1810, and that the Reverend Gibson brought the first kerosene lamp to Leyden in 1854.
It was not till 1865 that the Leyden Methodist church was revived under the able guidance of the Rev. Frank C. Morse, a Civil War veteran and member of the New England Conference. In 1865, when Morse came to Leyden, the church was at low ebb as a result of Civil War controversies. An indication of the spirit he instilled in the church is revealed by the 1869 figures which show an attendance of 100 to 150 at the Central Leyden Meeting House, and about 100 at West Hollow Parish. Before the erection of the East Colrain church, "West Hollow" parish- ioners met in a hall above the living quarters of Mr. Frank Thompson of East Colrain. This is the present home of O. R. Lynde.
Outstanding families in the reorganization of the church in 1866 were the Budingtons, Chapins, Darlings, Denisons, Greens, Miners, Morgans, Newtons, Newcombs, Severances, Taylors.
In 1873, a Chapel was built in East Colrain, and in 1875 a separate church society was organized in the "West Hollow" district with members of the Leyden Church who lived near the river, transfering to the Colrain Church. The Leyden pastor served both the Center and Hollow parishes.
As early as 1868, the Leyden Church joined the Methodist Camp meetings at Hatfield, Massachusetts. In 1892, Leyden and East Colrain parishes built a cottage at the well-known religious center of Laurel Park near Northampton. That same year, a young people's church organization was formed as the Young People's Christian League. As previously recorded, a church bell was presented to the Methodists in 1905 by Briggs and William Potter of Watertown. It was not till 1906, however, that the gift was dedicated and "The Bells of Leyden sang." At this time, cushions were presented to the church by William W. Davenport and a carpet was given by C. A. Marcy of Colrain. The Newcomb brothers of Greenfield gave a hanging lamp with bracket. During his pastorate, the Reverend Charles B. Law- rence, with his daughter's help, painted and decorated the church, steeple and all, inside and out!
In 1939, the Church of Leyden was consolidated with the Methodist Episcopal, the Methodist Episcopal Church South, and the Methodist Protestant Church to form the Methodist church of Leyden.
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The following Methodist ministers were natives of Leyden: Benjamin N. Bullock; Edward N. Crossman; James W. Mowry; Edmond S. Potter; Norris Stearns.
Methodist pastors who preached in Leyden from 1900 in- clude: Rev. E. D. Lane (1902-1905), later a physician in Andover, Mass .; Jonathan Cartmill (1905-1908), later the pastor of Cam- bridge Trinity Church; Robert Thorne (1914-1915); Leroy Lyon (1915-1916), went from Leyden to a pastorate in Gloucester; Anthony E. Roberts (1916-1919); Cato Dick (1925-1926), went from Leyden to a pastorate in Springfield, Mass .; Charles B. Lawrence (1928-1932), from Leyden to Lanesboro and Winchen- don; Carlos Gosnell (1934-1937), from Leyden to take over the Herford Circuit in Maryland; Reuel K. Rust (1937-1942); William A. Knight (1943-1958); Carl E. Mills (1958- ).
Active Leyden church officers today include Mrs. Edith Howes, Mr. and Mrs. George Howes, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Gla- bach, Mrs. Austin Dobias, Mr. and Mrs. Donald Herron, Mr. and Mrs. Wilhelm Glabach, Mrs. Kornelius Kennedy, Mrs. Gertrude Bolton, Judson Ewer, Mrs. Russell Howes, Mrs. Gilbert Barton, Douglas Barton and Mrs. Wayne Fisher.
The Leyden Universalist Society was organized in 1830 with Nathan Hale Smith, its pioneer pastor. This society sur- vived only 3 years, but was reorganized in 1867 as the Uni- versalist Church of Leyden. Prominent in this group were the Fosters, Carpenters, Keets, Davenports and Shattucks. Eli Wing Packer was a pioneer in the 24 member group. As previously pointed out, the Leyden Meeting House was used by Methodists and Universalists alike. The former used the church 3 Sundays each month; the latter had it on the 4th Sunday. The final regular meeting of the Leyden Universalists was in 1898.
Several old-time church customs prevail to this day in Leyden. To raise money for special church events, a grab-bag basket is sometimes passed around town. It may start on its way with offerings such as canning rubbers, water glasses and tin pie plates. The first to receive the basket "buys" what he wants from the displayed wares, then drops a few coins into a slotted tin box provided for this purpose. He then adds a grab-bag article of his own to the collection, and passes the basket along to his neighbor.
Other Leyden church customs include the sending of flowers to those who are ill or bereaved. At Christmas-time, the Ladies Society sends attractive fruit baskets to all shut-ins; and at
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Easter, special pageants are presented in the church. Early on Easter morning, a sunrise service is held each year on one of Leyden's highest hills.
No Congregational church was ever organized in the town of Leyden. This is unusual, as the Congregational Church was often the first religious group to be established in early New England towns.
Leyden in World War II: While Adolf Hitler was building up his war machine in Europe, the people of New England hill towns went quietly about their business, hoping against hope that this time, Americans would not have to fight abroad. With the 1939 Hitler thrust into Poland and the outbreak of war in Europe, Americans began to realize that Hitler was more than a loud-mouthed speech-maker. The tendency toward isolation persisted, however, and this continued through the early part of 1940 when "Hangin' Out the Washin' on the Siegfried Line" and similar "phoney war" ditties were on all lips. Even with the fall of Norway and France, a detached U. S. attitude per- sisted, and this continued, in Leyden and throughout the country until the fateful day of Pearl Harbor, December 7, 1941.
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