USA > Massachusetts > Worcester County > History of Worcester County, Massachusetts : with biographical sketches of many of its pioneers and prominent men, Vol. I > Part 70
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DESCRIPTIVE.
FITCHBURG, the smaller of the two cities of Wor- cester County, and, after Worcester, the most import- ant place in the county, is pleasantly situated among hills and valleys, and is about twenty-four miles north of its sister city. The township is of average size, being about six and a half miles from north to south, and about four and a half miles from east to west. A small stream, the north branch of the Nashua River, forined by the confluence of several brooks in the southwesterly part of the town, curves to the north and emerges near the southeast corner ; and along its course most of the population and all the business interests of the city are located.
The thickly populated and business centre-the city proper-lies a little southeast of the centre of the township. West and south of the city proper are the
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villages of West Fitchburg, Rockville and Crocker- ville, and east and south are Traskville, East Fitch- burg and South Fitchburg. The outlying portions of the township are but sparsely inhabited, being mainly utilized for farming purposes, though considerable areas are covered with woods or used simply for pas- turage. The township is bounded on the north by Ashby, on the east by Lunenburg and Leominster, on the south by Leominster and Westminster, and on the west by Westminster and a small part of Ash- burnham.
Any detailed description of the city and its outlying villages would, of course, be beyond the scope of this sketch. As has been stated, the city lies in a valley along the stream. The territory on the south side of the stream, or, "across the river," as it is called, is occupied almost entirely by dwelling-houses, while the business portion is on the north side close to the river bank ; and the hills a little farther north and the more level land to the east are thickly covered with dwellings, many of which are beautiful and costly. Main Street, the principal business street in the city, follows for the most part the course of the stream, its general direction being east and west. On this street are a number of important manufacturing establishments, many substantial business blocks, several public buildings, hotels, handsome churches, and towards the upper end a few fine private resi- dences. From its beginning it is paved with stone as far as the City Hall; and a horse railroad track runs through almost its entire length. There are three parks on this street-the " Lower Common," or Rail- road Park, Monument Park and the "Upper Com- mon,"-situated nearly equidistant from one another- The first of these is at the junction of Main and Water Streets, opposite the handsome and commodious Union Passenger Station, and is a small enclosure provided with a band-stand. Monument Park is directly in front of the County Court-House and nearly opposite the Wallace Library and Art Building, while flank- ing it on the east is Christ Church, a beautiful and picturesque stone building. Taken in connection with these three fine edifices, this park is a most in- viting spot and much frequented. In its centre is an expensive and massive soldiers' monument of granite surmounted by three bronze statues. Four brass field- pieces, secured from the government through the efforts of the late Hon. Alvah Crocker, and mounted in regulation style, are placed one at each corner, and the whole park is enclosed by a substantial iron fence upon a base of hammered granite. The "Upper Common " is located towards the upper or western end of Main Street, and is larger than either of the other parks. It has recently been laid out and beauti- fied, and bids fair to rival Monument Park in the favor of the citizens. It is a parallelogram in shape and entirely surrounded by shade-trees. Near the lower end is a very ornamental band-stand, from which the Fitchburg Military Band often gives even-
ing concerts during the summer. The band also gives concerts front the band-stand iu the Lower Common, and the music furnished by this justly- celebrated organization always calls together a large concourse of citizens. Opposite the head of the Up- per Common is the old First Parish (Unitarian) Church, a structure interesting from an historical point of view; and flanking the Common on its northerly side are several handsome residences. At the easterly terminus of the horse railroad, near the Lunenburg line, are the fair-grounds and trotting park, formerly the property of the Worcester North Agricultural Society. In 1887 this property was purchased by a number of gentlemen, forming an organization known as the Fitchburg Park Company, for the purpose of improving and beautifying it for use as a park.
The upper portion of Main Street is considerably wider than the lower part, and is abundantly supplied with shade-trees. From Putnam Street to the Amer- ican House, Main Street is altogether too narrow for the tide of business which daily passes through it, and without doubt it will be absolutely necessary for the city to construct a new street hefore long to relieve the pressure ou Main Street. This portion of the street is entirely without shade-trees, or even room for them to grow, and it is becoming more and more evident every year that a great mistake was made in not reserving a more generous width for the street.
Fitchburg is pre-eminently a busy and thriving city, and probably no other place of its size can boast of a greater diversity of industries. The little stream running through the town was a source of great annoy- ance to the early settlers. The spring floods carried away their bridges, and the river was considered a nuisance and probable bar to the growth of the town. But coming years showed the folly of these fears. Dams were constructed, the water controlled, and manufacturers on a small scale hegan to locate on the banks of the formerly detested stream. Thus was a seeming curse turned into an evident blessing, for from those few mills have sprung the present great manufacturing concerns located here. Now the stream, whether swollen by the floods of spring, or diminished to a mere rivulet by the drought of summer, is allowed to pursue its way for the most part unheeded by the bnsy manufacturer. Water-power is still used to some extent, but steam is now the chief motor that propels the machinery, looms and spindles that daily pour forth products which go to the markets, not of this country alone, but of the world. A description of these large manufacturing establishments, of which our citizens are justly prond, must be deferred to a subsequent portion of this sketch.
It is evident that ample transportation facilities are necessary in order to distribute all these varied pro- ducts, and Fitchburg certainly possesses such facilities to a marked degree. When, about half a century ago, the Hon. Alvah Crocker proposed and advocated a railroad direct from Boston to Fitchburg, the idea met
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HISTORY OF WORCESTER COUNTY, MASSACHUSETTS.
with great opposition and ridicule. Mr. Crocker per- severed in spite of all obstacles, the railroad hecame an accomplished fact, and the immense benefits arising from its construction are realized by the citizens of to-day. It has grown into the great Hoosac Tunnel Line and affords direct communication, not with Boston alone, but with the great cities of the West. Other railroads have since been built which give direct communication with all important points. An elegant and commodious passenger-station, built about ten years ago, is shared by all these roads in common, and there are large freight depots, car-shops, engine- houses, etc., which will be described further on.
Fitchburg is by no means behind the times as re- gards the adoption of all methods and means by which the wealth, prosperity and enlightenment of her citizens may be advanced, their business facilitated, and their lives and property protected from danger or destruction. The streets of the city are kept clean and in good condition, and are, for the most part, well lined with shade-trees ; a pure and very abundant water supply has been provided at large expense ; school-honses are numerous and, as a rule, commodious and well-ventilated ; a thoroughly organized and well- equipped Fire Department, in connection with the fire- alarm telegraph and numerous hydrants, affords the best possible protection against serious loss by fire; the efficient police force keeps the city singularly free from theft and murder. All these departments are under the direct control of the city, and their effective work reflects great credit on the authorities, both in past and present time. In addition to these advan- tages of a strictly municipal character, there are others no less important to the welfare of the city. There are numerous churches, substantial and invit- ing, both externally and internally, whose pulpits are occupied by good pastors; there is an efficient tele- phone service with many subscribers; the streets are well lighted with electricity, furnished by the Wachu- sett Electric Light Company, and in some portions with gas, furnished by the Fitchburg Gas Company ; the Fitchburg Street Railway Company provides con- venient means of transit from one end of the city to the other, and the government has established the letter-carrier system here.
Having seen, in a general way, what man has ac- complished towards making Fitchburg an attractive and desirable place of residence, let us devote a little space to the investigation of what nature has done to beautify and make pleasant this city among the hills. The north branch of the Nashua, which has been previously mentioned as traversing the southerly portion of the township, is formed by the confluence of several brooks having their origin in ponds in Westminster and Ashburnham. These brooks, uniting in the southwesterly part of the township, form the only stream of any size in Fitch- burg. There is nothing particularly beautiful or romantic about it at the present time, except in a
few spots where the hand of man has not encroached too ruthlessly upon its original condition. Many bridges, both for railroad and public use, have been built across it, and numerous dams have been erected along its course, which form small ponds that lack the element of natural beauty. It is rather singular that, while almost every one of the towns in this vicinity possesses at least one large natural sheet of water, there is nothing of the sort in Fitchburg. So the citizens have to content them- selves with brooks, of which there are several in town that are very picturesque and well worth visit- ing. One of these is Falulah Brook, in the north- erly part of the town, towards Ashby. Its conrse is through wooded country, and in many places it has worn for itself a channel through the solid rock. In spots it has hollowed out deep basins in the rock, forming quiet, transparent pools ; and again it dashes down some rocky incline, producing fascinating cas- cades. This brook crosses the township diagonally, and that part of it in the southeasterly corner has received the name of Baker's Brook. It receives several tributaries, prominent among which are Scott and Shattuck Brooks, whence is obtained the water supply of the city, and Pearl Hill Brook.
In the southerly part of Fitchburg is another brook, quite as interesting and picturesque as Falulah, and certainly better appreciated, from the fart of its be- ing easy of access. The name of it is Wanoosnac Brook. During the past century the spelling of its name has undergone considerable change. Rev. Peter Whitney, in his "History of Worcester County," published in 1793, speaks of it as " Wauh- moosnok Brook." In Torrey's " History of Fitch- burg," published in 1836, it is spelled Wanoosnock. By some, at the present time, it is called Monoos- noc. However much the nomenclature may have changed, it is certain that its natural beauty has not followed snit. For some distance it flows along be- side the Old Turnpike Road, unmolested by the hand of man, at times hidden among the trees and again appearing in open spaces, tumbling and splash- ing along its rocky bed. It is especially well worth visiting in the early summer, when it is full of water. At one point, where it flows in a deep and pre- cipitous gully, a massive stone dam was built mauy years ago. From some imperfection in its construc- tion, the dam never could be made to hold water, and the brook, which, as well as the dam itself, is almost entirely concealed by trees that have grown up since man's futile attempt to obstruct it, flows noisily beneath the heavy stone-work as if filled with defiant joy at its retained freedom. A little farther above is another dam, built with better skill, which has, for over half a century, been occupied as the site of a saw-mill.
The most marked topographical features in Fitch- burg are Rollstone Hill, southwest of the city, and Pearl Hill, to the northeast. The former is a ronnded
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nass of solid gneiss, attaining an elevation of about our hundred feet above the river. Whitney thus al- udes to it in his history : " A little southwest of the meeting-house is a high, rocky hill, covered princi- bally with pine, called Rollstone Hill." At the present ime the pines have disappeared. Until a few years igo two old and weather-beaten specimens, the sole snr- vivors of former times, were standing like ancient sentinels upon the summit of the hill ; but age, com- ined with the poor quality and small amount of soil and the fierce winds of winter, caused them to succumb, and they fell some years ago, one soon after the other. The writer well remembers the feeling of sadness that arose within him when these aged land- marks were prostrated. The lower portion of their trunks bore a vast collection of autographs, for proh- ably almost every boy who climbed to the top of the hill, for years previous to their fall, and was lucky enough to own a knife, carved his initials on one or the other of them. The top of the hill is now practically bare rock, though the thin soil in spots supports a scanty and stunted growth of bushes. The sides of the hill have a tolerably thick layer of soil, and are covered with a growth of small trees, mostly chestnut, oak and maple. Excellent building stone is obtained from this hill, and the supply seems to be practically inexhaustible. Extensive quarries have been worked for a great many years without any very appreciable diminution in the size of the hill, unless it be on the southwesterly side.
The use of Rollstone granite is by no means confined to Fitchburg alone. It is shipped to various places, and there are several buildings in Boston constructed entirely of it. Some portions of the rock contain extraneous minerals, and fine specimens of beryl and tourmaline have been ob- tained here in times past. On the very summit of the hill is " the Boulder," a rounded mass of rock, forty- five feet in circumference, and probably weighing one hundred tons. Its composition is totally unlike that of any rock formation within thirty miles, and it is certain that this boulder was conveyed to its present position by ice. Glacial stric are plainly visible be- neath it where the surface of the bed-rock has not weathered. The fine view of the city and surrounding country that is obtainable from the summit of Roll- stone is well worth the slight trouble necessary to climb the hill by some of the stone roads and paths. At the feet, so to speak, of the observer perchied upon the top of the boulder, are the numerous tracks of the Hoosac Tunnel Line, with trains moving upon them almost constantly ; just beyond is the river, with the city stretching along its course and forming almost a complete semi-circle ; behind the city rise the hills, culminating in the beetling brow of Pearl Hill to the northeast. Big Watatic, in Ashburnham, overtops his brethren in the northwest. In clear weather the sharp summit of grand Monadnock can also be seen in that direction. The rounded outline of Wachusett, about
twelve miles distant, fills the southern horizon, and to the east and southeast are the towns of Lunenburg and Lcomin-ter, a few miles away. Portions of other towns can also be seen, and the undulating character of the country in all directions presents a pleasing spectacle to the eye.
Pearl Hill is somewhat higher than Rollstone, and on one side rises abruptly in the form of a precipice. It is compo-ed of a micaceous rock of rather pecu- liar appearance, which, a century ago, encouraged the hope that there were " valuable mines, either of gold or silver, or both, imbosomed there." The Rev. Peter Whitney goes on to say that "attempts have hereto- fore been made to possess them; but for want of wealth or perseverance in the undertakers, they have not obtained the desiderata." It is exceedingly im- probable that capitalists will care toexpend money in searching after gold or silver in the bowels of Pearl Hill. Rollstone is a much more profitable invest- ment. A fine view can be obtained from the summit of Pearl Hill, and a drive on the Pearl Hill Road is much in vogue with citizens and visitors. West of Pearl Hill and north of Rollstone is the high land where the water supply of the city is stored. There are four reservoir- located at different levels, the highest being Overlook, about four hundred feet above the river, whose embankment and gate-house are quite conspicnous.
There are many pleasant drives in and abont the city. The suburban roads are, for the most part, well made and kept in good condition, though the hilly character of the entire surface of the township renders very considerable washouts inevitable during the spring months, and canses more or less expense an- nually for repairs. The soil is generally quite fertile, and there are many valuable farms in the town. Woods are abundant in many parts of the town and consist of all the varieties of trees indigenous to this section. Fruit-trees flourish and there are many fine orchards in and around Fitchburg. Small fruits and garden produce are raised in great abundance with ordinary care.
Much more might be said descriptive of Fitchburg and its environs. In the foregoing the writer has intended simply to speak of facts that will not appear elsewhere, or to touch on matters that will be further elaborated in subsequent portions of this sketch. We will conclude this section by giving a few statistics in regard to population and agricultural interests. Ac- cording to the census of 1885, the population at that time was 15,375. Since then there has been a very considerable increase in the number of inhabitants, and probably 19,000 would not be far from the correct figures at the present time (1888). A few of the agricultural statistics gleaned from the census of 1885 are as follows: there were then 209 farms in town, 3676 acres of cultivated land, 5850 acres of pasturage and 5134 acres of woodland. The aggregate value of agricultural products was $294,558, the largest items
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being,-dairy products, $97,414; hay, straw and fod- der, $70,696; vegetables, $25,990; apples and small fruits, $19,280, and poultry and wood products about $18,000 each. There were about 40,000 fruit-trees and grape-vines, valued at $76,473. There were 74I cows and about 8000 fowls.
From these few statistics one can see that, though Fitchburg is not given very much to agricultural pursuits, she makes a very respectable showing in that line.
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CHAPTER XXXVII. FITCHBURG-(Continued).
EARLY HISTORY (1764-1799).
FITCHBURG was originally a part of Lunenburg, and its history prior to 1764 is identical with that of Lunenburg and may be found in the history of that town. Previous to 1764 several attempts had been made by the people living in the westerly part of Lunenburg to be set off as a separate town, but were unsuccessful. On January 25, 1764, another attempt was made and the consent of Lunenburg obtained, the town voting "to let the people go." The request was granted on condition that "the inhabitants should pay their minister's tax, as heretofore they had done, until they should be formed into a district." As soon as the consent of Lunenburg was obtained, a com- mittee, consisting of John Fitch, Amos Kimball, Samuel Hunt, Ephraim Whitney and Jonathan Wood, was chosen to procure an act of incorporation. So zealously did this committee work that in just nine days after the granting of the request the act passed the General Court and was signed by the Gov- ernor. The following is a copy of the act of incorpo- ration in full :
Anno Regni Regis Georgii Tertii Quarto.
An act for setting off the inhabitants, as also the estates, of the west- erly part of Lunenburg into a separate town by the name of Fitchburgh.
Be it enacted by the Governor, Council and House of Representatives, that the inhabitants, with their laods, on the westerly part of Lunenburg, beginning at such a place on Leominster line as that a straight line therefront may run between the lands of Messrs. Paul Wetherbee and Jonathan Wood to a stake and stone a smail distance to the westward of Mary Holt's house, then turning and running north, ten degrees and a half east, to the southeast corner of Ephraim Whitney's land, then to keep the easterly line of said Whitney's land to the northeast corner thereof, and from that corner to run northwardly on the eastwardly line of John White'a land to the porwesterly corner thereof, and from that corner to run north, four degrees east, to Townsend line ; then run- ning west, thirty one degrees and a half north, on Townsend line to Dor- chester Canada line, then turning south, dine degrees west, eight miles and a hundred and forty rods on Dorchester Canada line, to Westmin- ster line; then turning east, eleven degrees thirty minutes south, three miles and thirty one rode to a heap of stones on Leominster line; then turning and running to the bound first mentioned, be and hereby is set off and erected into a separate towa by the osme of Fitchburgh, and that the said towo be invested with all the powers, privileges and immunities that other towns in this Province do or may by law enjoy, that of send- ing a Representative to the General Assembly only excepted; and that the inhabitants of said town shall have full power and right, from time to time, to join with said town of Lunenburg in the choice of a Repre-
eentative, or Representatives, and be subject to pay their proportionable part of the chargea, who may be chosen either in the town of Lunen- burg or town of Fitchburgh, in which choice they shall enjoy all the privi- leges, which by law they would have been entitled to if this act had not been made ; and the Selectmen of the town of Lunenburg shall issue their warrant to one or more of the constables of Fitchburgh, requiring them to notify the inhabitants of the town of Fitchburgh of the time and place of their meeting for such a choice.
Provided, nevertheless, and be it further enacted, that the said town of Fitchburgh shall pay their proportion of all town, county end Province taxes, already set on, or granted to be raised, by said town of LuDen- hurg, as if this act had not been made.
And be it further enacted, that Edward Hartwell, Esq., he and hereby is empowered to issue bis warrant to some principal inhabitant in said town of Fitchburgh, requiring him to notify and warn the inhabitants of said town, qualified by law to vote io town affairs, to meet at such time and place as shall be therein set forth, to choose all such officers as shall be necessary to manage the affairs of said town.
February 2d, 1764. This bill having been read three several times in the House of Representatives, passed to he enacted.
TIMOTHY RUGGLES, Speaker.
February 3d, 1764. This bill having been read three several times in Council, passed to be enscted.
A. OLIVER, Secretary
February 3d, 1764. By the Governor : I coosent to the enacting af this hill. FRANCIS BERNARD.
The history of Fitchburg begins therefore on the 3d day of February, 1764. About forty families were then living within the limits of the new town, mak- ing the probable number of inhabitants something over two hundred. There was one mill in the town, -the saw and grist-mill erected about 1750 by Amos and Ephraim Kimball,-near the location of the present "Stone Mill," now occupied by J. Cushing & Co. To the Kimballs also belongs the honor of building the first dam across the North Branch of the Nashua. It consisted of a log laid across the stream with spikes driven in above it, and was generally swept away every spring by freshets. It was located a few feet above the present granite dam, near the Laurel Street bridge.
Rufus C. Torrey, in his "History of Fitchburg," gives a complete list of the heads of families living in the town at the time of its incorporation, and also the place of residence of each of them. It contains forty-three names. After this list is the following, which gives an idea of what Fitchburg was a century and a quarter ago : "The above-mentioned individ- uals and their families composed the population of Fitchburg. Their dwellings, in almost every in- stance, were far apart,-here and there a house scat- tered over a large territory. A single dwelling-house stood in the ' Old City,' and in the village, where the population is now so thickly clustered together, not a single house was erected. The winds, which swept down the valley of the Nashua, sighed through the pines which have formed a dense forest." He also adds that "the pitch-pine trees afforded an excellent shelter for deer, partridges and wild turkeys."
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