USA > Massachusetts > Plymouth County > Plymouth > History of the town of Plymouth, from its first settlement in 1620, to the present time : with a concise history of the aborigines of New England, and their wars with the English, &c. > Part 33
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From this period to 1770, the fisheries were gradually in- creasing, and in 1774, seventy-five fishing vessels, of about 45 to 50 tons, navigated by seven or eight men each, were em- ployed in this town. Merchant vessels from 1755, to 1770, or 1774, in the Liverpool trade:
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APPENDIX.
Brigs 1
-
-
-
Tons 130
1
-
-
-
160
1
-
-
-
180
470
One schooner, owned by Samuel A. Otis, Esq., of Boston, made her outfits at Plymouth, for her voyages to Liverpool. Outward cargoes, liver oil, lumber, potash, then made at Mid- dleborough. Return cargoes, salt, crates, freight for Boston. There may have been about twenty other vessels in the mer- chant service, whose outward cargoes were fish to Jamaica, some to the Mediterranean, and to the French Islands, Martinico and Guadaloupe.
During the Revolutionary War, this commerce and these few vessels were chiefly annihilated, and at the peace of 1783, a few schooners only remained, but fishing vessels immediately increased in size and aggregate tonnage.
Previous to the Revolution there was a considerable trade to Georgetown, South Carolina, and to Charleston. In the winter many vessels which had been employed in fishing during the summer, took cargoes to North Carolina and Virginia, and re- turned in March with Indian corn, bacon, and live hogs, and this domestic trade still continued.
' Previous to the last war with England, say from about 1808 to 1811, the commerce of the United States had attained to a state of great prosperity, and its government and people reposed in security upon the advantages which had resulted from a neu- tral position.' Ship-building was constantly increasing, and large ships were in great demand for voyages of neutral freight. But the destructive embargo in 1808, and the war with Great Britain which followed, annihilated commerce, and blasted the fairest prospects and calculations of merchants. Several val- uable vessels belonging to this town were captured, others were perishing at the wharves, and our mechanics and seamen re- duced to a mortifying state of idleness.
The commerce of Plymouth, including Duxbury and Kings- ton, may be estimated from the following abstract of duties:
Years.
Duties.
Years.
Duties.
1801
$21,754
1806
$98,224
1802
19,223
1807
62,592
1803
30,305
1808
21,994
1804
34,417
1809
32,575
1805
63,411
1810
29,224
* It has been stated that we had in foreign trade, in 1811 and 1812, 17 ships, 16 brigs, 40 schooners. Of these were taken before September, 1812, 1 ship, 1 brig, 4 schooners.
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HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH.
Duties paid by merchants and others in the town of Plymouth, on importation at the port of Plymouth :
Years.
Duties.
Years.
Duties.
1813
$1,751
1822
$16,887
1814
,428
1823
12,706
1815
6,056
1824
5,053
1816
16,076
1825
8,151
1817
12,446
1826
4,842
1818
13,224
1827
13,119
1819
11,221
1328
25,732
1820
15,284
18.29
31,237
1821
16,677
1330
8,383
1831
7,500 estimated.
Enrolled tonnage belonging to the town of Plymouth, em- ployed in the coasting trade and fisheries, 3,9495g tons.
Registered tonnage belonging to the town of Plymouth, 5,07033 tons, including 1,17033 tons occupied in the whale fishery.
The following is the statement of the Cod and Mackerel fish- ery for the summer of 1831.
Schooners in the Cod fishery 32, averaging 61g tons, em- ploying eight men each, and landing 19,165 quintals of fish.
The number of barrels of Mackerel inspected this season is 218.3.
To the inhabitants of the town the Cod fishery is an object of primary importance. To some it has been a source of wealth, and to multitudes of a comfortable, cheerful living.
The fishermen, in general, are respectable for good morals, correct habits, and civil deportment. The idea prevails with some of them that fishing employment is less honorable than foreign voyages; but let them consider that all honest enterprise and industry is honorable, and that fishing voyages are less liable to sickness, and less exposed to dangers and vicious example; and, moreover, that the employment prepares them for services in the navy, where they may have the honor of fighting the bat- tles of their country. It is much to the credit of our fishermen that when on the banks they carefully abstain from fishing on Sundays.
Those vessels that are employed in the straits of Belle-isle fishery carry whale-boats, in which the fish are taken and kept through the summer.
To fit a vessel of seventy tons, carrying eight men, for a fishing voyage of four months, it requires about one hundred hogsheads, or eight hundred bushels of salt; that from the Isle
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APPENDIX.
of May is preferred; about twenty barrels of clam bait, thirty- five or forty barrels of water, twenty pounds of candles, two gallons of sperm oil; these articles are in the fisherman's phrase called great generals, and are paid for from the proceeds before any division of the profits is made. The stone ballast, and a suit of clothes for the men who salt the fish, are also in- cluded in the great generals. After these articles are paid for, and the fish sold, the profits are divided in the proportion of three eighths to the owners, and five eights to the crew. If the crew furnish their own provisions, each man carries from thirty to fifty pounds of ship bread, from three to six gallons of mo- lasses, from fourteen to twenty-eight pounds of flour, some but- ter, lard, and vinegar, formerly two to six gallons of rum. At the present time, some vessels go entirely without ardent spir- its. Each man carries six codlines, thirty fathoms long, four lead weights of five pounds each, two dozen codhooks, one pair of large boots reaching above the knees, and a piece of leather or oil-cloth to defend his breast from the wet. A few other articles, called small generals, are paid for equally by each man, as two cords of wood, a barrel of beef, one bushel of beans, twenty bushels of potatoes, three bushels of Indian or rye meal. It is customary for the owners to put on board two or more spare anchors and forty fathoms of cable.
The fish are brought home in the salt, and after being washed are spread on flakes to dry.
Dun-fish are of a superior quality for the table, and are cured in such a manner as to give them a dun or brownish color. Fish for dunning are caught early in spring, and sometimes in February, at the Isle of Shoals. They are taken in deep wa- ter, split and slack salted, then laid in a pile for two or three months in a dark store, covered for the greatest part of the time with salt-hay, or eel-grass, and pressed with some weight. In April or May, they are opened and piled again as close as pos- sible in the same dark store till July or August, when they are fit for use.
The amount of fish bounty paid to this town by the general government for the year 1831 is $17,501 47.
Whale Fishery. There were a number of schooners and sloops employed in the whale fishery in this town previous to and immediately succeeding the war of the revolution; but there are now no vessels of that class so employed. In the year 1821, a number of citizens associated themselves together and built a ship of three hundred and fifty tons for the purpose of fitting her for the Pacific ocean whaling, which they named the Mayflower, in honor of the ship that brought our forefathers
27 *
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HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH.
here in 1620. The ship sailed in September, 1821, and after making three successful voyages, and landing rising six thou- sand barrels of oil, a part of the owners sold to some gentle- men of New Bedford, where she was transferred in 1831, and repaired, and sailed from that place in April, 183i; a part is still owned in this place. In 1821 another company was form- ed, consisting principally of the same persons that built the Mayflower, and built another ship which they called the For- tune, in memory of the second ship that came into these waters. This ship is of two hundred and eighty tons burthen, and has made three voyages, and landed about fifty-seven hundred bar- rels of oil, and is now on her fourth voyage. In 1830, the ship Arbella, of four hundred and four tons, and navigated by thir- ty-five men, was sent out, and in 1831 the ship Levant, of three hundred and eighty-five tons, navigated also by thirty-five men, sailed for the Pacific Ocean in pursuit of sperm whales. The two last named ships are of the largest class, and fitted out in a thorough manner; and it is hoped they may meet with success to induce others of our fellow citizens to embark in this enterprise, which has brought wealth and prosperity to other towns, and is believed can be carried on here to as good advan- tage as from most other places. The three ships now employ- ed in the whale fishery amount in the aggregate to 1060 tons, navigated by ninety-two officers and seamen ; the produce of this fishery may be estimated at about two thousand barrels of sperm oil annually. Connected with this establishment are the manufacture of about three thousand oil casks, and about fif- teen hundred boxes, or of forty-five hundred pounds of sperm candles annually. A fourth ship has this year (1833) been fitted out.
There are six sloops of about sixty tons each constantly em- ployed in coasting between this place and Boston. They aver- age about one trip a week in the summer scason, and are usually from eight to sixteen hours in performing a passage. The distance being about fifty-five miles. A large part of their cargoes consists of the raw materials for the cotton, woollen, iron and cordage manufactories, as well as all kinds of goods and groceries for our stores and shops, and they carry back the various kinds of manufactures which are produced here. There are also two schooners, of about ninety tons each, employed in carrying to and from Nantucket, New Bedford, and New York, articles connected with our manufacturing establishments. There are also three vessels employed in bringing lumber from the State of Maine. An attempt was made in the years 1828 and 9, to run a steamboat between this place and Boston, but
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APPENDIX.
it proved to be a losing concern, which was much regretted, as it was found to afford a mode of conveyance of great conven- ience to the inhabitants.
Wharves. In 1695, we find the first mention of a wharf on our records. John Richard had liberty from the town to erect a wharf against his own warehouse leaving sufficient room for carts to pass along the shore. In 1698, the town granted to James Warren 30 feet 'square of land for a wharf, and to Abiel Shurtleff a lot of the sarne dimensions below Cole's hill for building a wharf, leaving a cart-way between the bank and said land. August 28, 1727, a committee was chosen by the town to hear what those persons have to offer, that purpose to build a wharf at the lower end of the new street, but no further pro- ceedings on the subject are recorded. In 1734, the town sold several wharf lots extending from the top of Cole's hill into the bay reserving a street 30 feet wide to run parallel with the shore. These lots were laid out 30 feet in width, and a piece of land was reserved below the street for a landing place for vessels, to remain open for a common dock for the town's use forever. This dock lies at the bottom of north street, between the long wharf and Mr. Hedge's store. The first lot was sold to Isaac Lothrop, Esq. for 5 pounds and is adjoining the town dock; each purchaser of these lots were required to support the bank at the foot of Cole's hill. Other purchasers were Thomas Foster, Quintin Crymble, James Warren, John Mur- dock, Samuel Kempton, Josiah Finney, William Harlow. The lot called the shop lot, being the lot on which the shop of Dr. Francis Le Baron, deceased, then stood, was sold to Samuel Bartlett and Dr. Lazarus Le Baron. There are now nine wharves near the centre of the town, one of which extends nine hundred feet into the harbor, and is called Long wharf. This was constructed in 1829, and is honorable to the enterprising proprietors. Having a plank flooring it affords a beautiful promenade, which is much frequented in summer by social par- ties who wish to enjoy a pleasant view and refreshing sea breeze. Besides these, there are three wharves on the south side of the harbor and one connected with the Cordage Factory at the north part of the town. On Water street, and the wharves which run from it, where most of the business connected with navigation is transacted, there are twenty-one stores, sixteen warehouses, and a sufficient number of mechanics and artists of various de- scriptions. There is an aqueduct in the town which supplies most of the families on the north side of the Town brook, at the rate of $5 annually for a single family, or $8 for two fami- lies in one house. The water is brought in logs from Billing-
320 .
HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH.
ton Sea at the distance of about two miles. We have belong- ing to the town four fire-engines, well provided with hose and hydraulic pipes, and all the requisite appliances. We have also two large reservoirs connected with the aqueduct, affording an ample supply of water. The whole apparatus, with ladders and hooks are under the direction of men alert, and capable of the most efficient operation on any emergency which may occur.
Ponds, Rivers and Brooks. The number of ponds within the limits of this town is supposed to be more than two hundred.
Billington Sea. This was formerly called Fresh Luke. It was discovered about the 1st of January, 1621, by Francis Billington, while mounted on a tree standing on a hill. It was in the midst of a thick forest, and when seen at a distance, Bil- lington supposed it to be another sea. On the 8th of January, he went with one of the master's mates, to view the place. They found two lakes contiguous, separated by a narrow space; the largest is about six miles in circumference, and is the far famed Billington Sea. It is about two miles south-west from town, and from it issues the Town brook. In this pond there are two small islands. The largest, containing about two acres, having been planted with apple trees, produces excellent fruit. This pond is well stocked with pickerel and perch. The ma- jestic eagle is frequently seen cowering over this pond, and has for ages built its nest in the branches of the trees, visiting the flats of the harbor at low tide in pursuit of fishes and birds. Loons, and beautiful wood-ducks produce their young in se- questered retreats about this pond, annually.
The fallow deer, tenacious of its ancient place of rendezvous, continue to visit this pond for drink, and to browse on its mar- gin. For many years this beautiful pond was a favorite resort for social parties. A house was erected on the bank, a plea- sure boat was in the pond, and tea parties and fishing parties united in the happiest enjoyments.
South Pond is situated four miles from town, -is a beautiful sheet of unruffled water, the bottom of pure white sand, with white and red perch playing in their native element. This pond has now become a place of fashionable resort for parties. There is no natural outlet; but about the year 1701, a water course was cut from it, about half a mile in length, crossing the road and uniting with the head waters of Eel river. This pro- ject was executed under the direction of Elder Faunce, with the view of attracting alewives into the pond; but it failed of success.
Murdock's Pond lies about half a mile from our village in the rear of burial hill. It is a deep round pond of about two acres,
321
APPENDIX.
where ice is procured for ice-houses; and a small brook issuing from it crosses the west road, and is called Little brook, or Prison brook, which unites with the Town brook.
Half-way Pond. This is ten miles southerly from our village. There is an island in this pond which formerly furnished a large supply of masts, and the road to it is still called the mast road.
White Island Pond lies some distance north-westerly from this; it is large, covering about 600 acres and is on the line which divides Plymouth from Warcham.
Great Herring Pond is about 15 miles from town, on the bor- ders of Sandwich. It is two miles in length, and has an Indian population in its vicinity. Little Herring Pond is connected with it by a brook. The Leech gives name to one pond, though in most of them leeches are taken which answer all the purpos- es of the true medicinal leech.
Long Pond is two miles long, situated on the ancient path to Sandwich of the first settlers, which is the shortest route by two miles. It is six miles from town, and is famous for large pickerel and perch.
Clam Pudding Pond is seven miles south, on the Sandwich road. It was formerly the resting stage for travellers to and from Cape Cod, and the settlers were in practice of holding annual festivals on Clam Pudding at this pond.
Crane Brook Ponds are the source of a brook passing into Carver south-westerly, on which are valuable furnaces and mills, manufacturing cast iron.
Scook, is the Indian name of a small pond near Manomet point, where are numerous rocks.
Coatuit is the Indian name for Half-way Pond.
Agawam is the name of the brook flowing from Coatuit and passing into the sea at Wareham. It is a valuable stream, on which mills and forges are situated and alewives abound in their season.
Town Brook. This is the outlet from Billington Sea; it passes through town and empties into the harbor a little south of Forefather's Rock. It is of inestimable to the town, being the seat of manufactures of great importance which will be described under the head of manufactures. There is a tannery and two grist-mills on this stream. Before the town sold their privilege to this brook, alewives were so abundant on their way to Billington Sea that more than 800 barrels have been taken in one season. But the passing up of. the herrrings was for many years a source of much trouble and perplexity by inter- rupting the operations of the mills and manufacturers, occasion- ing an entire suspension during several weeks annually, to the
322
HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH.
great damage of the proprietors and the town. It was from these considerations that, at a meeting of the inhabitants of the town in 1821, it was voted to convey to the owners of the mills situated on the town brook, all the town's right to the use of the water and the bed of the said brook, including the lower grist-mill, for the term of fifty years, on the condition that the said owners of mills pay to the town $5000 in ten years with interest annually. According to the arrangement adopted by the town, the interest accruing on the purchase money is to be distributed, one third, or $100 annually, among such widows of the town as are not supported as paupers, and the remaining part, or $200, to be distributed annually among the inhabitants of the town paying a poll tax, or poll taxes, in equal proportions as the selectmen of the town for the time being may direct. And when the principal sum of $5000 shall be paid, the select- men shall cause the same to be funded in such stock as in their opinion will best secure to the town the interest thereof for said purposes during said term of fifty years.
Eel River. This originates in ponds and springs back of Eel River Village, crosses the post road to Sandwich, and emp- ties into the sea near Warren's farm. It is appropriately call- ed Eel river, from the abundance of eels which it yields to the support of the industrious poor. Perhaps it will not be extrav- agant to say that about 150 barrels are annually taken there.
Wonkinqua River takes its rise in this town, forins the boun- dary between it and Carver and runs about four miles to Ware- ham line, below which there are on this stream some of the largest iron works in the county.
Red Brook seeks the sea at Buttermilk Bay, over it is a small bridge crossed by the road from Sandwich to Wareham.
Willingsly Brook. This is about half a mile from our village, crossing the public road to Sandwich. So early as 1623, this place was recorded by the name of Hobb's Hole, from an inlet or cove under a cliff where small vessels and boats were shel- tered from storms. In 1637, we find the name of Willingsly on record for the same place. It is now a location for a cluster of about 24 houses, where there is some excellent land, and flakes for curing fish. Here was the seat of Secretary Morton; in this place he copied the church records, and wrote the Me- morial, and volumes of other records.
Double Brook, or Shingle Brook, of the first settlers, runs northerly by the post-road to Sandwich, and unites with Eel river. A forge stands on it near the junction. Beaver Dam Brook is in the village of Manomet Ponds, and affords seats for several mills. Indian Brook is still further south, near the
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APPENDIX.
shore; it is small, but abounds with trout. There are between this town and the bounds of Kingston, five small brooks or rivu- lets crossing the road; near the third, reckoning from town, lived Deacon Hurst, who erected the first tannery in Plymouth, about 1640. Near the fourth brook, was the seat of Governor Prince, being a farm given him by the General Court when he removed from Eastham in 1665, and was called Plain Dealing. This has since been known by the name of Lothrop's farm, now Hedge's farm. On this brook stands a grist-mill and a valuable cordage manufactory.
Bridges .- There are in the town about 12 bridges. The stone arch bridge was erected over the Town brook in the year 1812, at Spring hill, precisely at the spot where the colonists had their first interview with Massasoit, in 1621. The hill where the sachem with his tram of 60 men first appeared, was called Strawberry hill by the first planters, now Watson's hill. There is another bridge of wood over the Town brook at the wharf, which for many years was the principal passage way, and was called the lower road. This bridge is now the property of the town, but is kept in repair by individuals, in consideration of some contiguous land granted to them by the town. Eel river bridge is well known to travellers, though the public road to Sandwich is now more westerly, and passes the cotton factory.
Hills .- Pinnacle Hill is in the vicinity of South Pond. Sentry Hill and Indian Hill are on the sea shore of Manomet. Gallows Hill is on the south side of Wood's lane, and is the property of the heirs of Mr. Richard Holmes. Sparrow's Hill is two miles westerly, crossing the main road to Carver. Paukopunnakuk, or Break heart Hill of the early settlers. This is that remarkable sand hill ten miles on the road to Sandwich, which the first set- tlers had to pass on foot, when journeying to and from the Cape to attend the courts at Plymouth. The traveller now escapes that wearisome hill by taking the new offset road to the shore, at Mr. Joseph Harlow's house.
There are on the road to Sandwich, in the woods, two rocks called Sacrifice rocks. They are covered with sticks and stones, which have been accumulating for centuries. It was the con- stant practice among the aborigines, to throw a stone or stick on the rock in passing. The late Rev. Mr. Hawley, who spent many years among the natives at Marshpee, endeavored to learn from them the design of this singular rite, but could only con- jecture that it was an acknowledgment of an invisible Being, the unknown God whom this people worshipped. This pile was their altar.
Burying Hill, formerly Fort Hill. Immediately in the rear of
324
HISTORY OF PLYMOUTH.
the town is a hill, rising one hundred and sixty-five feet above the sea level, embracing about eight acres. On the summit of the south-west side, the pilgrims erected first some temporary de- fence; but, in 1675, on the approach of Philip's war, they erect- ed a strong fort, one hundred and fifty feet square, strongly pal- isaded, ten and a half feet high. No other place could have been so well chosen, either for discovering the approach of savages, or for defending the town against their attacks. The settle- ment was rendered perfectly secure, and springs of water were at their command. The whole circuit of the fort is still distinct- ly visible; * a watch-house was also built near the fort.
The view presented from this eminence, embracing our har- bor and the shores of the bay for miles around, is not, perhaps, inferior to any in our country. Let the antiquarian come at full tide, and when the billows are calmed, and seat himself on this mount, that he may survey the incomparable landscape, and enjoy the interesting associations with which he will be inspired. Immediately beneath the hill lies the town in full view; and beyond this, the harbor and shipping. The harbor is a beauti- ful expanse of water, bounded on the south by Manomet Point, and near which commences a beach three miles in length, breasting the rolling billows of the bay, and serving as a barrier to the wharves; and on the north-east by a promontory extend- ing from Marshfield, called the Gurnet, on the point of which stands the light-house.
These several points, together with the opposite shores, com- pletely enclose the harbor, having Clark's Island and Saquish in its bosom. Beyond these points opens the great bay of Mas- sachusetts, bounded at the southern extremity by the peninsula of Cape Cod, which is distinctly visible, and spreading bound- less to the north-east. On the north appears the flourishing village of Duxbury, shooting into the bay, and exhibiting a handsome conical hill, ever to be remembered as once the prop- erty and residence of the gallant Standish. Between Duxbury and Plymouth, is the harbor and pleasant village of Kingston. Having taken a survey of this magnificent group, so exceeding- ly endeared to the New, England antiquarian, and enjoyed a spiritual vision of the Mayflower, laden with men, women, and ยท children, come as founders of a mighty nation, we are next led to view a scene of more solemn contemplation. The whole extent of the hill is covered with the symbols of mortality, the
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