USA > Massachusetts > Worcester County > Lancaster > Lawrence yesterday and today (1845-1918) a concise history of Lawrence Massachusetts - her industries and institutions; municipal statistics and a variety of information concerning the city > Part 17
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23
Lawrence Encampment, I. O. O. F., was also here before the incorporation of the city. It was instituted March 15, 1853, and existed until July 1, 1857, when, for the lack of support, it surrendered its charter. The encampment was re-instituted October 15, 1874. Its growth at first was slow, but it is now a flourishing branch of the order.
Today there are 96 secret or strictly fraternal organizations, representing 37 distinct orders, in Lawrence. There are nearly 200 social and various other kinds of organizations which are active in the social, moral, intellectual and physical welfare of the community. It might be stated that, besides these, there are 31 labor unions. Every nationality and creed have their representative societies, although the greater number of the organizations have no destinction as to race or sect, and all are working for the public weal.
OLD LANDMARKS AND DESIGNATIONS
There are, in Lawrence today, few landmarks of the olden time, -- before the construction of the dam. Nearly all of them have been lost in the expansive development in which there has been little sentiment favoring the retention of reminders of the early days, that stood in the way of progress.
Norcross pond which received the drainage from the south side of Tower Hill, and which was used as a lumber dock into which logs were floated from the river to be cut into boards in the saw mill close by, is gone, though a remnant of the saw mill remains and is now part of the Gutterson & Gould property next to the Lawrence Boiler Works. Potter's pond away up on the slope of the hill near its top, where a big lump of ice probably got stranded, left behind by the melting glacier, has been used as a dump by the city's health department, and it has now entirely disappeared. Shanty pond on the opposite side of the river is preserved in the title of the main sewer draining the district. Gale's Hill was prominent in the west part of the city until it was carted into the swamps of Ward Five. General Gale had owned most of the hill, and had built an interesting octagonal concrete house on its top. Out of this hill came the sand for the first filter bed.
One of the misfortunes of growing into a good sized city, it may be said, is the loss of the old designations of localities. Stevens Village passed long ago ; it is now the Arlington district. Stevens pond around which the village grew up, is practically gone, filled up and covered with buildings of the big Arlington Mills corporation. We never hear of the Paper Mill school house on the Atkinson road; it is now the Prospect street school. Nobody remembers that Adolphus Durant once made paper in a little old mi'l on the Spicket River, just east of East Haverhill street. The "Patch" (South Lawrence west of the B. & M. tracks ) has gone ; the "Plains" (Ward Three ) likewise ; West Parish road became Beacon street, and Barnard road is now known as Mt. Vernon street.
The old log dam upon the lower Spicket was carried away in the summer of 1878. It was an ancient affair, one of the few old land- marks. The current above the dam was sluggish, the course crooked. The breaking of this dam drained the usually deep river at this point, and revealed the foundations of a still older dam above it, of which there seems to be no account preserved either in records or traditions. It is said, however, that long ago there was a furnace at that point for smelting iron.
<
185
OLD LANDMARKS AND DESIGNATIONS
Where the library now stands was a pond in which boys used to swim. One man even committed suicide there by drowning.
The "Old Red Bridge" still holds its own, though it is not the red wooden bridge it used to be. The Lowell road, on the southside, used to run to Lowell, but Andover street as they call it now does not run to Andover. Lowell street does not run to Lowell, as strangers might think. It was not named for our rival city upstream, but for one of the early directors of the Essex Company. The "White Pups Bridge" is still with us, also "Bull Dog Field". Salem Turnpike has become Winthrop Avenue. Rumford street, named for Count Rum- ford, is now called Winter street. Turnpike street (originally London- derry turnpike ) was on September 2, 1868, given the name of Broad- way.
There are numerous other old designations of localities which time and progress have changed. A number of old buildings, the last land- marks of the early days, are remembered by the older residents, but these have mostly disappeared.
The most notable landmark in Lawrence today is the ancient dwelling at the corner of Elm and East Haverhill streets. A portion of the old house had stood near the mouth of the Spicket River. It was removed to the present site when highways were laid out in the region, and it now stands. the only monument of the early pioneer days of which Lawrence can boast. The building has been much changed by successive repairs and alterations, but the foundations of the original portion are made as if to last forever. The chimney is of immense proportions, measuring 20 feet by 13 at the base. It was built, it is said, in 1738, although bricks have been taken from the huge chimney marked 1688. They are laid in mortar. made by admixture of clay and chopped straw. The house was at first the dwelling of the Bod- well family, among the first of the pioneers in this section. In recent years it was occupied by the late William B. Gallison and is, perhaps, better known to the present generation as the Gallison house.
There stands in the front yard of this house a noble elm tree which has braved the storms of over 100 years and still appears to be vigorous. It is said that Mrs. Bodwell employed a man to bring the tree, then a sapling, from the woods, and plant it in front of her door. The man was a soldier of the French War, and had just returned from the capture of Quebec. In return for his services Mrs. Bodwell rewarded him with a quart of molasses.
What is known as the old Bailey house, now occupied by Mrs. Nellie E. Abbott, on the northeast corner of Andover and Parker streets, is one of the few landmarks of the pioneer days.
The old brick house of Daniel Saunders, founder of Lawrence, on the southwest corner of South Broadway and Andover street still stands, the last vestige of the Cross-roads settlement beyond the south end of Andover Bridge.
1
I86
LAWRENCE-YESTERDAY AND TODAY
At the southeast corner of Ames street and Hudson avenue is what remains of the old Ames farm house, though removed from its original location.
The old ferry house at Bodwell's Falls is still with us, but some- what altered. It is located on the west side of Doyle street south of Water street.
The cemetery lot of Daniel Appleton White's family may be found in the rear of 32 and 34 Bradford street.
Den Rock Cemetery, or Den Rock Park as it is known today, might be included among the notable of the few old landmarks that remain. The region around Den Rock was alive with weird stories in the old days, and men of today remember the superstition that still clung to the huge rock in their boyhood days. The Devil is said to have visited the place. With a frightful shriek waking the echoes, he was seen in a flash of lightning one stormy, dark night, sliding down a rent in the side of the rock. The place of his descent afterward became known as the Devil's Slide, and more than one boy has spoiled the seat of his pants trying to emulate the pastime of his satanic majesty, which gave this fissure in the rock its name.
There is a tale of a cave under the rock, where moonshiners had a still ; where thieves stored their ill-gotten gains, and where counter- feiters plied their illegal trade. Boys have searched for this cave and men have wondered about it, but it is not known that any mortal eye has seen it.
The rock is one of the most picturesque features of this locality and the city is fortunate in owning it. The Park Commissioners took possession of it some years ago, and eventually, if it is not turned into a quarry, it may become a popular adjunct of the city's park system. Though the land around it was originally purchased for a cemetery, and some of it was laid out into avenues, and two or three lots sold to clinch the purpose, it never was used as a cemetery. So far as known, the only thing buried there was a dog. In the old days the Peters family had a brick yard at Den Rock, and to this day there have been burnt and distorted bricks found in the ground about the rock. These were not the work of the Evil One who amused himself by sliding down the rock in flashes of lightning on dismal nights, but were the result of the carelessness of a young Peters lad who fed the fires too freely.
HISTORICAL REMNANTS
In this chapter are related what might be regarded as sidelights of history,-incidents, dramatic and amusing, odd and whimsical, all of which may be found interesting. For want of a better caption we call it, "Historical Remnants".
LAFAYETTE'S VISIT
A notable event in the pioneer days was the visit of General Lafayette who on June 20, 1825, passed through this section on his way from Boston to Concord, N. H. The general left Boston at 9 o'clock in the morning, with his suite, riding in an open barouche, drawn by four white horses. The route taken was through Charles- town, Medford, Reading, Andover, through the present Lawrence, and Methuen. He was met at the Andover line by a company of cavalry and escorted to Seminary Hill where the venerable Mr. Kneeland welcomed the honored guest. Several military companies here joined the cavalry and escorted him to Taylor's Hotel where he was welcomed by the faculty of the Institution. About 2 p. m. the distinguished party passed over Andover Bridge, now Broadway Bridge, in Law- rence, escorted by the Andover cavalry. At Methuen there was a welcome by the local militia and by one of the general's old light infantry soldiers, several of whom met him upon the route. At 3 p. m., at the state line, the cavalry delivered their guest to the staff of Governor Morrill of New Hampshire, the Granite State party arriving safely in Concord with their distinguished guest early the same evening. The only halt in Lawrence was to water the fine blooded horses at the Shawsheen corner well, and a short rest upon the old bridge where the picturesque rapids and pleasant scene attracted the attention of the noble Frenchman. All along the route the people from the country about gathered to give welcome to Lafayette.
THE SHAWSHEEN PIGEON
The wild pigeon does not come directly into local life, but in the olden days, before Lawrence of today was dreamed of, the light lands of Shawsheen fields were extensive rye fields, and pigeons came in great flocks from far and near. The snaring and netting of this game
188
LAWRENCE --- YESTERDAY AND TODAY
became an occupation for old-time farmers of the region. The market for these birds was at Boston and Salem, and the Shawsheen pigeon was considered a dainty dish in those days.
A CORPORATION WITH A SOUL
Some people say that corporations have no souls, but this could have hardly applied to the oldest corporation in this locality, the "Proprietors of Andover Bridge". At one time the directors voted to allow all going from Andover to Methuen to church on Sunday to pass free of toll. The toll man was surprised at the religious interest attracting the Andover people to the north bank, but on inquiry could learn of no special awakening. Feeling that their liberality had been abused, they then voted to allow only those known to the toll man as church goers to pass free. This involved that official in dispute as to religious habits of travelers, and it was finally voted to charge saints and sinners alike, both Sundays and week days. The record shows, however, that the directors voted for several years to allow Adolphus Durant, Esq., with his family to go from Methuen to Andover to church free of toll. They also gave the reverend Dr. George Packard, the first rector of Grace church, free use of the bridge in his journeys to and from the parish.
AN OLD-TIME DRINK
Before lager beer became a New England beverage, "Flip" was an old-time drink, compounded of new rum and lemons (now civilized into punch). It was a favorite of the pioneers. Poor's Tavern and the Essex House, at Shawsheen corner, retailed great quantities of this beverage, for there gathered the merry-makers from a wide circle of the country. A glass of flip sold for fourpence-ha' penny, a mug of ample size for ninepence and a full bowl of the fluid cost a shilling. New rum, the liquid base of the mixture, cost only 27 cents per gallon at the Newburyport distillery. There was substantial proof in the compounding and sale of this liquor by the glass, mug or bowl. On festive occasions, like military musters, trainings, election gatherings and horse races, flip was sometimes mixed in open rum barrels sawed in half ; boys with pestles mashed the lemons, earning six to 12 cents per day.
PIONEER RACE TRACK
The old Turnpike, from the rise at Shattuck street, near the Falls bridge, southward to Phillips Hill, was four rods wide without side- walks ; this gave room for four parallel tracks or roadways and chance for races by nags of every gait, four abreast, with every kind of mount. On festival or public days the scene was an animating one.
180
HISTORICAL REMNANTS
There were no elaborate rules and all sorts of horses and farm jockeys took part. There was little betting of money but a great deal of bragging, disputing and drinking. Wrestling was the old-time precursor of football, and this was also a popular pastime. Saturday afternoon seems to have been the time when nearly all farmers and workers took a half day off and found Shawsheen corner a place for games and great jollity. If moderns believe that old-time intoxicants were harmless or beneficial let them interview the oldest inhabitant whose memory goes back to the days when there were no laws regulating the sale of liquor and no disgrace attending the general use of it, and the illusion will be dispelled.
JUNKETING IN THE OLD DAYS
Junketing is not a modern custom. The proprietors of the old Andover Bridge found solace at the Shawsheen corner taverns where their meetings were held. In the season of 1802, Benjamin Ames, the innkeeper at the old Essex House, charged 21 suppers, 19 pints of gin, 41/2 mugs of toddy and 4 "beals of punch", with a liberal supply of brandy. The corporation paid 8 pounds, 14 shillings and one penny for these sustaining supplies. The great bill of liquors came when, in the summer of 1802, they rebuilt the bridge. John and Henry Poor, innkeepers at the Shawsheen, supplied the workmen with ILI gallons of N. E. and W. I. rum, and 142 lbs. of sugar for sweetening. The charge was made in many items, and $142 was paid out of the company's treasury therefor. No toddy or punch was supplied to laborers ; they took rum straight or went dry. Laborers and mechanics then received 67 cents to $1.00 per day; a yoke of oxen could be hired for 84 cents per day. A night's lodging at the old Shawsheen tavern appears, from old bills, to have cost the traveler eight cents ; a generous dinner, 25 cents ; a week's board, $1.84.
AN INCONSISTENT REFORMER
There was trouble about the toll men at the Andover Bridge selling rum in the early days. A substantial citizen filed a remon- strance, stating that he sold the land on which the toll house stood with the understanding that grog should never be sold thereon, and that said toll house was a flourishing grog-shop. In reading this protest one admires this old pioneer temperance reformer for a moment, but loses faith in him when reading further on in his con- plaint where he states that by reason of such sale his own business as a seller of grog at the corner, half a mile beyond, had been ruined, and he had been compelled to close his house of entertainment. The proprietors appointed a committee to secure a toll man who would not sell grog.
190
LAWRENCE-YESTERDAY AND TODAY
THE OLD FIRE DOG
In the hand-tub days of the fire department, every company had its fire dog. These four-footed "laddies" responded as faithfully as the men, and were sometimes of great assistance in the rescue of people from burning buildings. One, old "Jim Syphon", was a dog with a career. His exploits were many, and his happiest moments were when he was dashing ahead of the fire brigade. He had no particular respect for any one but firemen, and died about the time when the glory of the hand-tub began to wane.
THIS IS NO "FISH STORY"
In view of the fact that in the early days fishing was an important occupation of the inhabitants hereabouts, a reference to it may be interesting. It is no "fish story", we are told, in the usual sense but a true record, that Henry Noyes took, at the fishing pools of the river, near Falls Bridge, 20 shad at one dip of the hand net, and that Noyes and partner, on Sunday, June 3, 1850, took 676 shad, worth $67. It is recorded that, in the early summer of 1851, these old fishermen were taking 2,500 to 3,000 lamprey eels per day below the dam. It is evident that the fisheries of Lawrence have greatly declined in im- portance. Fishing rights once on the Merrimack had a marketable value and were bought and sold as valuable franchises. In the pioneer days, prior to the dam, the Merrimack abounded in fish and was a popular resort for the dusky fishers of the Indian tribes as well as the early settlers. After the establishment of the town and the starting of the mills, a number of the inhabitants continued to secure a liveli- hood by fishing on the river. Some of the older residents still remem- ber the remnants of the rude fish wharves that extended along the north bank of the river from the dam to the Essex County Training School.
THE HACKMAN AND THE GIANT
Among the amusing trials in the early court was the civil suit of a hackman against a 700 pound giant, exhibited in old Lawrence Hall. The hackman sued the exhibitors for breaking down his coach with the unusual load of physical greatness, and there was a counter suit for damage and delay caused by the breakage. Several interesting points of law were raised. Old citizens who remember some of the incidents that occurred in court in the old days have to laugh, for very funny happenings took place there, often to the distress of the dignity of the presiding justice.
SOME EARLY DESIGNATIONS
Before streets were consecutively numbered in Lawrence, certain
19I
HISTORICAL REMNANTS
localities were known by names that became household words. The region known as "The Plains" lay along the Spicket River to the north of Oak street. The "Patch" was the shanty settlement in South Law- rence west of Broadway. "The Swamp" was the lowland section of Ward Five. The "Corporation Reserve" was the open common that reached from Broadway to Union street, lying between Essex and Methuen streets, unencumbered by any but temporary wooden build- ings for nearly twenty years. "Merchants' Row" was a line of modest brick stores west of Amesbury street. "City Block" included the old Bay State Bank building, on site of the present structure, and several stores to the eastward. The building at the corner of Essex and Appleton streets, directly in the rear of the City Hall, standing for years alone, was known as "The Empire House or Block".
INTELLECTUALLY TOO FULL
An amusing incident occurred at one of the Franklin Library lectures when Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes spoke upon the subject of "Audiences". He described the various characters that make up a lecture audience, naming lastly "the man who goes out". He goes out, said the doctor, because he is intellectually full to the extent of his capacity to absorb ; if he remains longer he must necessarily run over, like an overfilled goblet, for the rest of the evening. Just at this point a tall hearer with a bland childlike expression arose, at the very front, and made for the door. The audience cheered him to the echo and he supposing something interesting had been said, gravely turned and marched back to his seat, not intending to miss a good thing. For five minutes the audience laughed at what had to be seen to be appre- ciated, and the jolly doctor lay over the great mahogany desk of the old City Hall stage in a paroxism of laughter.
OLD COMMON POND
When ground was broken for the original pond on the common, August II, 1857, at 7.30 a. m., a company of about 150 persons assembled with teams and spades and made an extensive excavation. General Oliver made a vigorous speech well spiced with Latin and Shakesperian quotations. There were other speakers, poems, etc., but all took a turn at shovelling in the excavation and were happy. The following October a "Pond Festival" was held at City Hall, to raise money for completing the excavation. Then there were more poems, speeches and music. This pond was curbed and filled the following season (1858) and July 4th, 1859, the full force of the old reservoir on Prospect Hill sent a continuous stream into the air from the centre pipe to a height of 80 feet, to the great delight of visitors and small
192
LAWRENCE-YESTERDAY AND TODAY
boys. For many years the pond was a breeding place for a mixed species of fish, having the blended characteristics of the gold-fish and the horn-pout. They were fed and petted by children and visitors and led a lazy and luxurious life that proved enervating and destruc- tive. They died from overfeeding and want of exercise. The luxu- riant maple trees that encircle the spot were set in 1862-63 under the direction of Mayor W. H. P. Wright. There was much controversy and some bitterness in consequence of the location of this pond at a point east of the centre of the common. A few years ago the old pond was replaced by the present wading pool.
"BLACK HOUSE" AND "KNOW-NOTHING" RIOTS
In April. 1847, a disturbance occurred at what was termed the "black house", a low resort on Water street. The row grew out of a report, industriously circulated by a woman, that upon a certain night she saw a certain man knocked down, loaded upon a wheelbarrow, and rolled off into the river. The man referred to chanced for a time to be missing, and great excitement followed upon the supposition that the story were true. Three days later the man returned safe and sound. Indignant that such a report should have grown out of nothing, a crowd assembled and nearly demolished the house. Several arrests were made but the parties were discharged with very light fines.
The riot of 1854 was of far more formidable character. On the one side were arrayed the Irish, commonly referred to in those days as foreigners, and on the other the "Know-Nothing" party. Like the trouble in 1847, that of 1854 was founded wholly upon falsehood. At that it was based on a very meagre matter, but to the receptive minds of blind and eager partisans it was enough. It was reported that an Oak street Irishman had raised the American flag. union down. The "anti-foreigners" paraded the streets with bands and banners in the evening, shouting defiance to the "enemy". Men, since prominent in public office, joined the procession and took part in the fight that followed. On Common street, between Jackson and Newbury streets, the opposing forces met, when fists, stones, and even pistols were used. Fortunately, no one was killed though the house of the man who was said to have raised the flag was badly damaged. The city subsequently paid the bill. When the excitement was over, it developed that a so- called American had unconsciously offered the insult to the flag, it being raised union-down by mistake. As for a lack of respect for the flag among the Irish of the city, all doubt in that direction must have been removed during the war of the Rebellion when a great many of that race from Lawrence died and bled for the emblem. The names of a number of them may be found on the bronze tablets of the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument on the common, martyrs to the country's cause.
193
HISTORICAL REMNANTS
THE ORANGE RIOT
The next riotous demonstration in the city, in which there was racial feeling, occurred on July 12, 1875. On that day, the anniversary of the battle of the Boyne was celebrated by the Orangemen of Law- rence by a picnic at Laurel Grove, in which they were joined by delegations from Lowell, Woburn and Arlington. After the picnic the Orangemen belonging here returned to the city on the steamer City of Lawrence. They were met at the Water street landing with jeers and derision from several hundred persons who had assembled there. The Orangemen started down Essex street, followed by the crowd. Some stones were thrown, and near the Essex House some- body tore a regalia from one of the picnickers. The Orangemen flourished pistols, and for a time serious bloodshed threatened. Those with regalias sought shelter in the station house, and Mayor Tewks- bury was sent for. The latter, with a detail of police officers, escorted the Orangemen to the house of the commander of the lodge on Pros- pect street. A guard was stationed there and no further disturbance took place. On the way to the house of the Orangemen's leader, however, two of the police officers were hit by stones hurled at them, and somebody in the crowd fired a pistol. The officers returned the fire. About a dozen shots in all were fired. Several persons were slightly injured. Since that time the Orangemen have paraded here, but met with no opposition.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.