USA > Massachusetts > Suffolk County > Boston > Popular history of Boston > Part 17
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MOUNT
AUBURN.
M.W.AUD
ENTRANCE TO MOUNT AUBURN CEMETERY.
459
Gaspard Spurzheim.
We enter the enclosure through a broad granite gateway, the design of which was taken from an ancient Egyptian temple. The scene which meets the eye in summer time has few equals in quiet loveliness and harmony of beauty in New England. An immense parterre, some 130 acres in extent, now shadowy with trees, now silvery with jetty fountains, comes into view, and makes one feel that this is affection's holy ground.
As we pass up Central Avenue, which is margined with beds of rare flowers and works of art, we first come to the monument of
GASPARD SPURZHEIM,
whose name is associated with Gall in the early discoveries in phrenological science. He came to this country from Prussia to lecture, but died soon after his arrival in Boston in 1832.
SPURSHEIM
183 2
SPURZHEIM MONUMENT.
His body was given to science, and his heart and brain may still be seen in Dr. Warren's collections of specimens of anatomy. His remains were among the first interred in the cemetery.
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Turning to the left into Chapel Avenue, the steps of the visitor are next arrested by the celebrated bronze statue of
DR. NATHANIEL BOWDITCH,
the first full-length bronze statue ever cast in this country.
We never pass this monument without recalling an inci- dent that furnishes a healthy and helpful lesson to the young. Dr. Bowditch was remarkable for his simplicity and moral
BRONZE STATUE OF DR. NATHANIEL BOWDITCH.
energy of character, and he rose in science mainly by his own efforts. Once in youth, being very fond of music, he made the acquaintance of some music-loving fellows of the
461
Dr. Nathaniel Bowditch.
aimless and profitless sort, but full of warm, friendly feeling, and he found their society so pleasing that he seemed likely to follow their unthrifty habits.
At length the conduct of some of his companions showed the real danger of his position. He resolved to abandon his new friends at once. "What am I doing?" he said. "For- getting my studies in order to be with those whose only
THE CHAPEL.
recommendation is that they love music. I shall fall into their habits if I continue. I will do so no longer." It was a turning point in life. His abandoned fiddle was always kept, and is still owned by one of his family.
His last days were serene and happy, and were passed in the companionship of books and children. Looking back on a well-employed youth, he once said, "Every morning when I awoke and saw the sun I thanked God that he had placed me in this beautiful world."
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Passing the grave of Dr. Daniel Sharp, of blessed memory, we come to the Lawrence monument, one of the most lofty and beautiful in the grounds. The name of
AMOS LAWRENCE,
like that of Bowditch, has its lessons. He was a poor boy, but had the strong moral purpose that compels success. "I spent my first Sunday in the city at church," he once said.
THE STORY STATUE.
" I determined to begin life just right." Out of that church, which he entered a poor country lad, he was carried at last amid the tears of the city and brought here to fill a bene- 'actor's grave.
463
The Sphinx.
We now come to the chapel, which contains the fine statues of Joseph Story, John Winthrop, John Adams, and James Otis. It is lighted by a beautiful oriel window in front, where cherubs brighten in the sunlight and lose half their beauty in the shadow. It is always open to visitors.
Near the chapel has recently been erected one of the most beautiful works of art in Boston's cemeteries, an Egyptian monumental statue of colossal size, called
THE SPHINX.
It is designed to commemorate the conservation of the American Republic, the destruction of Slavery, and the heroes who fell in the Union war. It was cut from a single block of granite. It was executed by Martin Milmore, who designed the Soldiers' Monument in Boston, as well as the famous bust of Sumner, and many local works of art.
We might branch off from the central route to the tower, and visit the monuments of Lucius Bolles, of saintly memory ; of Ballou, who had many virtues and many friends ; or Cleve- land of Revolutionary fame. But proceeding to the hill and tower we pass the plain tomb of Rufus Choate, standing like a rock on the steep hillside, buried in cool shadows. At a little distance from the way, in a lot margined with evergreen, is the grave of "Fanny Fern." It is marked by a beautiful cross surrounded with delicately wrought fern leaves in pure marble. Her father, Deacon Nathaniel Willis, and her brother, N. P. Willis, the poet, sleep in another part of the cemetery.
We now come to the base of Mount Auburn, and in its circle repose the remains of Charles Sumner, Louis Agassiz, Edward Everett, and Noah Webster, the lexicographer. In fact, the whole base is circled with places that strangers love to visit, from the associations of bright and precious mem-
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ories, and no spot is now so much inquired after as the grave of
CHARLES SUMNER.
It is on Arethusa Path, near Walnut Avenue, at the foot of the tower. The lot has no fence, no margin of flowers or evergreens, and no memorial stones, except a row of small slabs of white marble, just rising out of the ground, and bear- ing the names and dates of the Sumner family who are buried there. A tall gnarled oak stretches one broad arm above it, which we always associate with one of the last remarks of the statesman. "A great man," said Mr. Sumner, at a last interview with a friend, "when under the shadow of defeat, is taught the uses of adversity, and as the oak-tree's roots are strengthened by its shadow, so all defeats in a good cause are but resting-places on the road to victory at last."
We well remember the mild March day when at sunset, amid the tolling bells of all the surrounding towns, the great funeral procession wound along the avenues, and, to the music of trombones, and to the singing of Luther's majestic choral, his body was lowered into a grave of flowers. The terraced hillside was full of people. Tears flowed on all cheeks, and the mourning was sincere. Flowers from South- ern soil were piled upon the coffin ; in the gathering shadows the sexton did his work, and an immense cross of calla lilies was set at the head of the new-made grave. That grave has never wanted for floral tributes. Though the humblest it is the most often visited grave of all.
The grave of
LOUIS AGASSIZ
is in the long procession of illustrious sleepers that encircles the dells below the tower. A red stone cross, mantled with vines, stands in the centre of the lot, a fit emblem of the
CHARLES SUMNER
CHARLES SUMNER'S SARCOPHAGUS.
467
Louis Agassiz.
great naturalist's faith. The monument of Agassiz is striking for its appropriateness and simplicity. It is a granite boulder
LOUIS AGASSIZ.
rising as though naturally out of the grave, and bears on one of its sides simply
JEAN LOUIS RODOLPHE AGASSIZ. BORN AT MOTIER, SWITZERLAND, MAY 28TH, 1807 ; DIED AT CAM- BRIDGE, MASS., DEC. 14, 1873.
The funeral of Agassiz took place on a mild afternoon on the 18th of December, - a day out of season, as mellow
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as the changing days of winter to spring, or September to the coolnes ; of fall. Like his great teacher, Cuvier, he had requested that he might be buried in the most simple pos- sible manner. The request was in the main regarded, but his friends resolved to bury him in flowers. The coffin, over
JEAN LOUIS RODOLPHE
AGASSIZ
THE AGASSIZ BOULDER.
which Cherubini's sweet requiem was sung in the college chapel, seemed an immense floral offering; the lot where the grave was made was carpeted with evergreen ; the earth thrown up by the sexton was hidden by ivy, japonicas, azalias, carnations ; the grave itself was wholly lined with
469
Pierpont.
green boughs and creamy flowers, and the stone cross held aloft in the wintry silence the greenest of ivy and the whitest of blooms.
The scene was in harmony with the great naturalist's character, -the cross, the floral offerings. Flowers were to him God's alphabet, and the Christian world had looked to him as the defender of their faith against materialism. Agassiz never forgot the religious instruction he had received from his pious parents in the Alp-walled Oberland and the beau- tiful Pays de Vaud. "These are the thoughts of God," he once said of mountains. Nature to him was God's thoughts in the past.
At the foot of the tower, on a green slope overlooking the Charles River and " Roxbury " fields, rises a plain monu- ment, on one side of which is inscribed, -
POET. PATRIOT. PREACHER. PHILOSOPHER. PHILANTHROPIST. PIERPONT.
It marks the resting-place of the venerable author of " The Airs of Palestine," "Napoleon at Rest," "The Pilgrim Fathers," and " Passing Away." Hollis Street Church, where he preached for many years, is seen in the far distance from the beautiful spot.
Pierpont in selecting the lot wrote a poem entitled " My Grave," in which he thus pictures the resting-place : --
"My grave ! I've marked thee on the sunny slope, The warm dry slope of Auburn's wood-crowned hill, That overlooks the Charles and Roxbury's fields, That lie beyond it, as lay Canaan's green And smiling landscape beyond Jordan's flood, As seen by Moses.
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Standing by thy side
I see the distant city's domes and spires. There stands the church within whose lofty walls My voice for truth and righteousness and God - But all too feebly - has been lifted up
For more than twenty years, but now shall soon Be lifted up no more."
The monument of Anson Burlingame may be seen near the fountain at the foot of the hill, -a beautiful marble block, covered on the top by an immense bundle of wheat, - a not inappropriate emblem of a fruitful life.
THE TOWER
Ascending. the stone tower, which rises some sixty feet from the top of Mount Auburn. we obtain an extended view
47I
Forest Hills Cemetery.
of the environs of Boston, - a scene of enchantment on a clear day in summer or early fall. Below lies the city of the dead ; just beyond is Elmwood, the residence of James Rus- sell Lowell, with its green acres of grand old trees ; on one side runs the placid Charles, like a picture of beauty ; on the other are hills, woods, spires, and towns, and white lines of houses, like outstretched arms joining one town to another ; while in the distance rise the three hills and the brick city of Boston, the gilded dome of the State House glimmering in the sun.
Among the new graves that the visitor JARED SPARKS. should see are those of Charlotte Cushman and James T. Fields. The former, which is near the tower, is marked by a noble monolith.
The stranger, on leaving the enclosure, may like to visit the grave of Jared Sparks, which is on Garden Avenue near the bell and the well-house. It is among the last objects usually visited, from its nearness to the gate. Passing out of the enclosure, " Auburn, Sweet Auburn " fades like a vision, but no one can fully understand or appreciate the Christian culture of Boston until he has exchanged the scenes of her activities for a thoughtful walk in the city of the dead.
FOREST HILLS CEMETERY.
As beautiful as Mount Auburn, though not as historic, is " Forest Hills." The entrance to this blooming park that
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hides the dead is through a gateway which is most elegant and impressive. In golden letters on the arch above it are the words : "I am the Resurrection and the Life." As one . passes the gate he seems in a vast garden of flowers and statuary. Here are pleasant sheets of water, rocky emi- nences, cool clusters of trees. General Joseph Warren, who fell at Bunker Hill, is buried here, on the summit of a hill called Mount Warren. The receiving tomb here is the largest, or one of the largest, in the country. Its portico is massive and imposing. Within are two hundred and eight catacombs.
At one side of this cemetery is the Strangers' Burying- Ground, or ground of single graves, called the Field of Manoah.
And here, at the Strangers' Burying-Ground, we will take leave of the reader, who has followed us in these pages through the events of two hundred and fifty years.
THE FIELD OF MANOAH.
I see afar the sun's red lustres, burning On skeletons of woods, And hear the lone bird haplessly returning To wintry solitudes.
Around me stand white monuments in clusters, An open space before, Whose tombs reflect few monumental lustres, - The sad Field of Manoah. 1
It is the field in which the stranger slumbers, Where ferns untrod are found ;
Yet many a grave, without a history, numbers That unfrequented ground.
1 Judges xvi. 31. " Manoah " - rest.
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The Field of Manoah.
Amid the graves one lone shaft there arises - I seek the spot alone - A name, familiar, memory surprises Upon the tapering stone.
'T is Owen Marlowe. This is all the history That on the shaft appears ; All else is vanished into endless mystery And unfamiliar years, -
Save that his genius many throngs delighted, And won its meed of fame, And love his kindly sympathies requited, And chiselled here his name.
A few brief years he spoke to throngs applauding Before the footlights' blaze, And read as long the chronicles recording His triumphs and his praise.
And, far from scenes where life's young dream had perished, And happy days had flown, And from the kindred that his heart had cherished, He died, and died alone.
And here he sleeps, where balmy June's returning Touches with green his bed, And bright years pass, with golden harvests burning, Unheeded by the dead.
Like her whose life with long applause was sated, Who was the world's glad guest, But finds a grave in Auburn isolated, The actor went to rest.
Beside this grave the other graves seem lonely ; Yet all these graves are lone, Removed from kindred, and surrounded only By dust of the unknown.
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Sad are the homes whose hearths are half deserted, Or, from the fireside's blaze The feet of loved ones, by the world perverted, Take solitary ways.
But sadder far than partings made by trial, By distance or the wave, Is that lost hope, that remediless denial Of kinship in the grave.
Yet many here their roof-tree left for others, Their hearth and lattice vine, To earn some easier life for toil-worn mothers, By Yarrow or the Rhine.
And some are gathered in this spot retired, Where deeds are fragrant yet, Who in death's silent chamber, faith inspired, The waiting angels met ;
Who walked alone the city's thronging highway, Like the celestial road,
And sought in other lives, in mart and by-way, The brotherhood of God.
Here piteous hands that duty led from pleasure Laid them beneath the blooms, But the Escurial holds no nobler treasure In all its golden tombs.
Gone to the city of unshaded splendor, Gone from life's harvest field, They gave the world the best their hearts could render, The best that life can yield.
The twilight near, the cool winds o'er me stealing, The city's spires before, I leave to-night, with sweet and chastened feeling, The lone Field of Manoah.
INDEX.
ADAMS, SAMUEL, 206; at Lexington on the morning of the fight, 226. Agassiz, Louis, grave of, 464 ; monument, 467, 468.
Agassiz Museum, 353.
Alcott, A. Bronson, 441 ; in Concord, 442. Aldrich, T. B., 409, 410.
Allston, Washington, his personal charac- ter, 304 ; intimate with Washington Irving, 305 ; buried by torchlight, 304; a story of, 339 ; poem by, 29.
American Revolution begun, 222.
Ancestors, our, the monuments to, 37.
Andrew, Governor, responds to Presi- dent's call for troops, 317 ; address to Legislature in 1864, 318.
Andros hated by Boston people, 146.
Antislavery struggle, the, 309; meetings in Faneuil Hall, 313, 314 ; societies, 314. Anville's, Admiral d', fleet destroyed, 190. Arbella, the, why so named, 48 ; voyage of, 49 ; reaches Salem harbor, 50; in Boston harbor, 52.
Argyle, Duke of, married in the Frank- land House, 199.
Arlington, 353 ; Arlington Heights, 349. Arlington Street Church, 240.
Arms sold to the Indians by Thomas Mor- ton at Merry-Mount, 67.
" Art," poem by Charles Sprague, 387. Art Square and buildings near, 338.
Aspinet, first enemy of the Pilgrims, 75 ; restores a lost boy, 79.
BALTIMORE regiment at Bunker Hill cen- tennial, 335, 336. Bates, Joshua, founder of the Public Li- brary, 324. Beaches near Boston, 356.
Bells of Christ Church, 239. " Belshazzar's Feast," Allston's, 305. Bjarne, son of Heriulf, voyage and discov- eries of, 360.
Blackstone, William, sole inhabitant of Boston, 39; invited Winslow and his friends to Boston, 40 ; removed to Re- hobotlı, 43 ; married late in life, 43. Blue Hills at Milton, 349.
Boston founded by gentlemen, 31 ; growth of, 65, 85; invested by the Provincials, 257 ; assault planned, 258; bombard- ment of, 261 ; evacuated by the British, 262; occupied by Washington, 266 ;
becomes a city in 1822, 293 ; to-day, 323 ; its territory and population, 323 ; valuation, 324; schools and churches, 324 ; Public Library, 324 ; Public Latin School, 375.
Boston Bay, 354.
Boston Common a cow-pasture, 369.
Boston, England, ancient name of, 16; description of, 31 ; resembles Rotter- dam, 31 : proud of her daughter, 31. Boston massacre, 214.
Boston News-Letter, the first newspaper published in America, 177.
Boston poetry, associations of, 389.
Boston University, 385.
Botolph, or Botulph, derivation of the name, 16. Sec St. Botolph.
Bowditch, Dr. Nathaniel, bronze statue of, 460.
Boy, the lost, 75.
Boys' books in 1720, 178.
Boys of Boston and General Gage, 215. Bradford, Gov., lines "To Boston," 390. Bradstreet, Anne, the favorite poet of the colony, 390.
Breakfast to officers of French fleet, 230. Brick houses built, 137.
" Bridge, The," Longfellow's poem, 406. British army in Boston reinforced, 243. British open fire on Bunker Hill, 244. Bromfield's Lane, 369.
Bunker Hill fortified, 243 ; battle of, 244 ; centennial celebration of battle, 332. Bunker Hill Monument, corner-stone of laid by Lafayette, 293, 294 ; the cele- bration, 294; Ray Palmer's memories of the occasion, 296 ; the grounds, 302 ; description of the monument, 303.
Burnet, Gov. , cost of his reception, 177. Burns, Anthony, arrest, 314 ; surrender. 317.
Byles, Mather, first pastor of Hollis Street Church, 287 ; a tory, 287 ; guards him- self, 288 ; his wit, 289 ; specimen of his poetry, 290.
CAMBRIDGE church-yard. 303 ; verse from Holmes's poem on, 305.
Cambridge, how it had its beginning, 62. Cape Cod, the Keel Cape, Kialarness of the Northmen, 362.
Cape Cross, or Krossanes, probably Ply- mouth, or Nantasket Beach, 365.
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Carwitham view of Boston about 1730, 425. Castle Island, 354.
"Catechise," the, 372.
Centennial celebration of Battle of Bunker Hill, 332.
Charles II. proclaimed king in Boston, 138.
Charles River settlements Arcadias, 43. Charlestown settled from Salem, 40, 62.
Charter of Charles I. revoked, 145; a new one granted, 146.
Chauncy Street Church, 393.
Children bewitched, 116.
Choate, Rufus, tomb of, 463.
Christ Church, story of a visit to, 234; oldest church in Boston, 236.
Chronicles of John of Tynemouth, ex- tracts from, 20.
"Church, the, hath no place left to fly into but the wilderness," '' 47. Chimes of Christ Church, 234, 240. Coleridge's inkstand, 402.
Common, the, a part of Blackstone's farm, 43 ; gallows on the, 103.
Conant, Roger, one of first settlers of Salem, 50.
Concord authors, 439; unsocial, 448.
Concord, Provincial Congress at, 219; battle of, 221 ; literary period of, be- gan, 440.
Coote, Richard, the second royal gover- nor, 174.
Copp's Hiil Burying-ground, 234, 239.
Copp's Hill, guns from the battery on, set fire to Charlestown, 239.
Corey Hill, Brookline, 349.
Corey, Martha, hanged as a witch, 123.
Cotton, John, Vicar of Boston, 32 ; flight to New England, 35, 48; memorial chapel to, 36 ; the first Boston poet, 389.
Cushman, Charlotte, monument to, 471.
DANA, RICHARD H., 391.
Dante's coffin, Longfellow has a fragment of, 402.
Dark day of 1780, 289.
Deer Island used as a place of confine- ment for Indians, 131. Demons put to flight by St. Botolph, 23. Diaz, Mrs., on the old-time primary schools, 371.
Dillaway, Charles K., master of the Latin School, 379.
" Dirge of Alaric the Visigoth," written by Edward Everett, 391.
Dissenters persecuted, 47 ; find a place of refuge, 66.
Dixwell, Epes Sargent, master of the Latin School, 379.
Dorchester, first settlers at, 62.
"Dorchester Giant, The," Holmes's poem. 410.
Dorchester Heights seized by the British, 257 ; fortified by the Americans, 261 ;
a storm prevents a British attack on, 262; view from, 350.
Dudley, Deputy-Governor, letter to the Countess of Lincoln, 62; angry with Winthrop, 65.
Dudley, Joseph, president of the provi- sional government, 146; an unpopular governor, 174-
Duel, first in Boston, 128, 160. Dyer, Mary, story of, 103.
EAST Indian emancipation, 399.
Easty, Mary, executed as a witch, 123.
Eaton, Mr. Nathaniel, first master of Harvard College, 384.
" Eberhard," poem, 340.
Edwards, Jonathan, in New England, 190.
Elm, the Old or Great, on the Common, 103, 124 ; Quaker graves near, 104 ; in- scription ou the gate of the enclosure, 127; Indians executed on, 128.
Elm, the Washington, on Cambridge Green, 257.
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 439; a literary recluse, 440 ; his poem, "Brahma," 447 ; alone survives of the Concord au- thors, 451.
Emigrants, dispersion of the, 62.
Endicott, John, settles at Salem, 50 ; gov- ernor, 92 ; cuts red cross from English flag, 95 ; opposition to Quakers, 95.
England, dark times in, 47.
English laws of trade resisted, 142.
Episcopal Church, origin of its existence in Boston, 145.
Eric, the Red, in Greenland, 360.
Estaing, Count d', at Madam Hancock's reception, 230 ; entertains Boston ladies on ship-board, 233.
Esquimaux, called Skraellingar, by the Scandinavians, 362.
Eutaw, the flag of, in Boston Music Hall, 336.
Evangeline, story of, related to Long- fellow by Hawthorne, 405.
Everett, Edward, and others restored chapel at St. Botolph's Church, 36. Everett, Edward, 391.
" Excelsior," Longfellow's poem, in- spired by a letter from Charles Sum- ner, 404.
FAMILY, the lost, 71. Faneuil, Andrew, mansion of, 193.
Faneuil Hall, 194.
Faneuil, Peter, 194.
" Fanny Fern," grave of, 463.
Federal Street Church, 240.
Feather Store. the old, 137.
Fields, James T., 415; his first poem. 416; an example to youth, 417 ; his poem, "A Protest," 417; his grave, 471.
Index. 477
Field of Manoah, or Strangers' Burying- ground at Forest Hills Cemetery, 472. Fire in Boston in 1679, 137 ; the great one of November, IS72, 328.
First Brick Church, 395.
First Church, the, 65, 240.
Food scarce in Boston, 258.
"Footsteps of Angels," origin of the poein, 403.
Forest Hills Cemetery, 471.
Fort Independence, 354.
Fort Sumter, fall of, 317.
Franklin, Benjamin, his birthplace, 177; story of his early struggle, 181 ; 390, 391. Frankland's Palace, 197.
Frog Pond, the, 127.
Fugitive Slave Law, 314.
Fuller, Margaret (Countess Ossoli), 448 ; her tragic death, 450 ; monument to, 456.
GALLOWS erected, 132. Gardner, Francis, Master of the Latin School, 379.
Garret, Richard, and others lost, 71.
Garrison, William Lloyd, in Baltimore, 309; mobbed in Boston, 310; visit to Whittier, 428.
General Court to be held in Boston, 65 ; members of the, elected by the people, 141 ; the governing power, 145.
George II., bells of Boston tolled at his death, 206.
George III., the sad king, 266; insanity of, 267 ; kindness to the poor, 272; fond of children, 272 ; at death-bed of his daughter, 275 ; blindness of, 275 ; deatlı, 276 ; popularity, 276.
Goodwin, John, children of bewitched, 116.
Gould, Benj. Apthorp, Master of the Latin School, 378.
Governors, the democratic, under the charter, 169. Governors, the eleven royal, 169.
Governor's Island once called Governor's Garden, 354.
Granary Burying-ground, 160.
Grapes found by the Northmen in Massa- chusetts, 361.
Greenland, Northmen in, 360.
Groton, England, birthplace of John Winthrop, 57.
Gunpowder, three tons sent to Washing- ton from Rhode Island, 258. Gyanough, the courteous sachem, 76.
HALE, SIR THOMAS, the adventurer, 156. Hancock's, Dorothy, reception, 230.
Hancock, John, 206; marries Dorothy Quincy, 225; at Lexington on the morning of the fight, 226 ; President of the Continental Congress, 229; Gov- ernor of Massachusetts, 230, 293. Hancock, Thomas, 206.
" Hanging of the Crane," history of the poem, 404.
Harvard College, 384.
Harvard, John, bequest of, 385.
Harvard Memorial Hall, 353.
Haverhill, Washington's praise of, 421.
Hawthorne, Nathaniel, Longfellow's poen
to, 437 ; 442 ; his death and burial, 443, 444.
Hayslop, Mr., the pedagogue, 369.
Hiawatha, story of, related to Schoolcraft by an Onondaga chief, 405.
Hollis Street Church, 283 ; first pastor, Mather Byles, 287.
Holmes House, Washington's first head- quarters, 257 ; "Old Ironsides," writ- ten in, 257.
Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 410.
Hooker, Rev. Thomas, lines to, by John Cotton, 389.
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