USA > Massachusetts > Essex County > The Essex memorial, for 1836: embracing a register of the county > Part 6
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this town, commanded a company of militia at the Battle of Lexington, and afterwards became a Colonel in the revolutionary army. Capt. Samuel Page, also fought at Lexington, and commanded a company in the revolutionary army.
Perhaps, also, for the curious reader, we should mention that here are said to repose the remains of the celebrated Eliza Wharton. Her grave is in the old burying place, and the tomb stone bears this inscription. "This humble stone, in memory of Elizabeth Whitman, is inscribed by her weep- ing friends to whom she endeared herself by un- common tenderness and affection. Endowed with superior genius and acquirements, she was still more endeared by humility and benevolence. Let candor throw a veil over her frailties for great was her charity to others. She sustained the last painful scene far from every friend, and exhibited an example of calm resignation. Her departure was on the 25th of July, A. D. 1788, in the 37th year of her age, and the tears of strangers watered her grave." The foot-stone has been almost en- tirely demolished by the depredations of visiters. The house in which she resided, is said to be the antique mansion still standing upon the corner of the street a step or two south of the sign of the eagle.
Danvers is bounded east by Wenham and Bev- erly, south by Salem and Lynn, north by Middle- ton, and Topsfield, west by Lynnfield ; and is fif- teen miles northeast of Boston. It extends from north to south about eight miles ; from east to west about six miles, and contains about 17,000 acres. A handsome map of the town engraved on copper, was published in 1832.
There are two principal villages. The South
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Village, a suburb of Salem, and the New Mills Village, before spoken of, situated at the head of sloop navigation on Porter River. Nearly con- nected with the latter, is the flourishing settlement on Danvers Plains ; a place of considerable trade and manufacturing enterprise. Besides these there are several other populous neighborhoods, where manufacturers, mechanics and farmers, lo- cated side by side, encourage, support and cheer each other onward in the paths of industry and social improvement.
In taking a survey of Danvers from either of the heights which command a view of a large portion of its territory, we see at once that it is naturally divided into several ranges of hills and valleys, each of which exhibit distinguishing characters. Commencing at the southern point, the boundary of Salem, Lynn and Danvers, and pursuing our course due north, we shall cross these hills and dales in succession and readily discover whatever is yet known of the geology and natural resources of the town. Passing over the narrow valley of Brown's pond, we ascend abrupt precipitous hills of sienite, from the highest of which we survey nearly the whole sienite region, extending from the boundary above mentioned to Proctor's brook and Gardner's swamp on the north, and from near the south village, to the distance of about one mile beyond the line of Danvers into Lynn on the west. This region is divided by an extensive valley through which runs from Spring pond, Salem, and Cedar pond, Danvers, the two branches of Gold- thwait's brook. This valley has evidently been the bottom of a lake long since the elevation of the immense masses of stone which surround it.
The soil of this region is inferior to that of most
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other parts of the town. The rocky parts are however covered by a thrifty growth of oak, pine, walnut, and a great variety of other forest trees which have never attained a very large growth. This is probably owing not so much to the poverty of the soil as to the axe, which once in twenty or thirty years sweeps the wood from every acre in succession ; but roots sprout again and the tender branches cease not to cover the hills with verdure. These woods are a part of the most extensive for- est in the eastern portion of the Old Massachusetts Colony. Here numerous rattle-snakes still elude their great destroyer. Here, within a few years two large Lynxes have been killed ; and a variety of smaller game occasionally tempt the farmer and mechanic from their avocations to enact the hunter.
The sienite of this region seems to overlay green- stone, by ledges of which it is surrounded. This fact, together with the limited extent of the re- gion induces us to believe that is must have been originally formed in a basin of greenstone, and subsequently rent to pieces and irregularly ele- vated as we now see it by volcanic action.
Some of these hills command extensive and beautiful views of sea and shore from South Bos- ton to Cape Ann. Here may be seen some of the most picturesque woodland and highland scenery, to be found within fifty miles of Boston - as yet unknown to fame ; but destined, we must think, to become the theme of impassioned song, the admi- ration of the lovers of nature and attractive places of fashionable resort. The spring water of this region is uncommonly pure, there being nothing soluble in this kind of stone, as the water of the Salem and Danvers aqueduct testifies to the nu-
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merous families supplied by its crystal streams. The valley is free from stones, and although it is not covered with a rich mould, is easily tilled, and when well managed productive. Goldthwait's brook affords several excellent mill privileges of which more valuable use might be made than the enterprise of the place has yet effected. But the surest source of wealth in this part of the town is the sienite which beside its value as a building stone, is believed to make as good if not better mill stones than any other rock in the Uni- ted States.
Crossing the valley of Proctor's brook which exhibits more fertility than the region just left, though the tillage land, generally speaking, is not so free from stones sufficiently large to obstruct the operations of the plough, we ascend a range of higher hills than the last, composed of green- stone and alluvial formation, lying between the valley just considered and the extensive plain be- yond, which we shall presently notice. This range of hills which extends from North Fields, Salem, in a westerly direction to the valley of Ips- wich river, is covered by a rich though somewhat rockey soil and is the site of some of the best farms in the town.
Northerly of this range lies an extensive plain inclining towards Porter's river, (tide water) which divides Danvers from Beverly. It is intersected by two branches of Porter's river, called Waters river and Crane river, the former affording a val- uable tide water mill privilege, improved by the Salem Iron Company ; and the latter supplying with water those New Mills, which for a century past, have given the name to the village in which they are located. The eastern portion of this
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plain contains extensive beds of clay, supplying the material for bricks, and brown earthen ware, for the manufacture of which Danvers has long been celebrated. Westward and northward of this plain are three broken ranges of hills, chiefly di- luvial, based on greenstone which, in a few places, makes its appearance above ground. The valleys between these last mentioned hills are chiefly peat meadows, of good quality, capable of supplying a vast quantity of fuel. In these meadows, several small streams of water have their sources which unite near the head of tide water of Crane river and form a valuable mill privilege, at present oc- cupied by a grist mill.
A portion of the western boundary of the town is Ipswich river, the valley of which is skirted by a range of elevated land running nearly north and south, in which the last mentioned ranges of hills terminate. Into this river empty several small streams which have their sources in the ponds and peat meadows of Danvers. The largest of which rises from Humphrey pond lying partly in Danvers and partly in Lynnfield. This stream affords two mill privileges, one of which is occu- pied by the remains of a cotton factory, at pre- sent ruined by undecided suits at law - and the other by a grist mill which operates only during the winter season. The land in the vicinity of this steam, consists chiefly of knolls of loose gravel, of the latest diluvial formation warm, dry and barren ; westward of it, however, are two large hills of an older diluvial formation covered with a more stubborn but a more productive soil, simi- lar to that which covers the hill in the more east- erly part of the town. Here likewise are found ledges of chlorite rock, some of which are slaty
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and mixed with marble. These, however, are probably too deep in the earth to be worked ad- vantageously.
In reviewing the foregoing sketch of the geolo- gy of Danvers, it appears obvious that its natural advantages and sources of wealth are by no means inconsiderable. The sienite is inexhaustible, and the demand for it manufactured into mill-stones and prepared for building and other purposes, must increase annually. The extensive beds of clay - situated so near navigable waters and flourishing towns and villages, is another sure source of wealth or at least a comfortable maintenance to many inhabitants. The water powers; and last, though not least, a productive soil and ready mar- ket, to reward the labors of numerous farmers and horticulturists, render this one of the most eligible situations in the county.
The town is distinguished for the sobriety, in- dustry and economy of its inhabitants; and has for many years past been ranked among the most thriving and prosperous towns in the county.
A large proportion of the inhabitants are en- gaged in agricultural pursuits ; and here are to be found some of the best cultivated lands, and best managed farms in the vicinity.
Manufactures of various kinds are carried on to a great extent. There are upwards of 30 tanner- ies, containing between 3 and 4,000 vats, and con- stantly employing a capital of at least $300,000. Extensive shoe factories, in which are made annu- ally boots and shoes of the value of $400,000. Other operations in hides, skins, leather, wool, glue, &c. are carried on extensively.
The water power, both salt and fresh, is consid- erable. At the Salem Iron Factory, business
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is done to the amount of $400,000 annu- ally. At Fowler's Mills, and Oakes's Mills, much business is also done. In the south part of the town are several valuable water privileges which have hitherto been used for tanning purposes ; but which it is now contemplated to use for cotton factories.
Five steam engines are in operation for tanning purposes, and one for turning lasts and manufac- turing mustard, all of which are kept in motion by the consumption of tan, as fuel ; and thus has this hitherto almost useless material, been made to answer a very useful end.
The Newburyport turnpike passes through the North Parish, and the "Essex Turnpike" com- mences a short distance from the South Village, and leads over Andover bridge to the New Hamp- shire line.
Considerable trade is carried on between this place and the interior towns of the county.
POPULATION.
The population was in 1800, 2643 ; in 1810, 3127 ; in 1820, 3646 ; in 1830, 4228 ; in 1835, 4700.
Ratable Polls, 1200.
TOWN OFFICERS.
Town Clerk-Joseph Shed.
Town Treasurer-Stephen Upton.
Selectmen and Assessors-Nathaniel Pope, Samuel P. Fowler, Eben Putnam, Lewis Allen, Henry Poor.
LAWYERS, PHYSICIANS, JUSTICES, &c. Lawyers-John W. Proctor, Joshua H. Ward.
Physicians-Andrew Nichols, Joseph Shed, George Osgood, George Osborn, Ebenezer Hunt, Joseph Os- good.
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Justices of the Peace and Quorum-Gideon Foster, Joseph Shed, John W. Proctor.
Justices of the Peace-Eleazer Putnam, Andrew Nichols, George Osgood, Daniel P. King, Ebenezer Hunt, Joshua H. Ward.
Notary Public-John W. Proctor.
Deputy Sheriff and Coroner-Stephen Upton. Post Master-Joseph Osgood.
RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES.
First Church .- Orthodox Congregational ; located in the North Parish ; Milton P. Braman, pastor. This church was formed in 1671, as a branch of the first church of Salem; and was set off as an indepen- dent society, Nov. 10, 1689. The first pastor was James Bailey. He was born at Newbury, Sept. 12, 1650 ; graduated at Harvard, 1669 ; settled here Oct., 1671 ; resigned 1680. The next pastor was George Burroughs. He graduated at Harvard, 1670, and settled here Nov. 25, 1680; resigned 1683; on the 19th August, 1692, was executed for witchcraft on Gallows Hill, Salem. The third pastor, who was Deodab Lawson, settled here in 1683, and resigned five years afterward. The fourth pastor was Samuel Parris. He was born at London, 1653; settled here Nov. 15, 1689 ; resigned in June, 1696. It was in Mr Parris's family that witchcraft first made its ap- pearance in 1692. The fifth pastor was Joseph Green. He was settled here Nov. 10, 1698; died Oct. 26, 1715. The sixth pastor was Peter Clark. He was born at Watertown ; settled here June 5, 1717 ; died June 10, 1768. The seventh pastor was Benjamin Wadsworth. He was born at Milton, July 29, 1750 ; graduated at Harvard, 1769 ; settled here Dec. 23, 1772 ; died Jan. 18, 1826. The eighth, and present pastor, is Milton Palmer Braman. He was born at Rowley, Aug. 6, 1799 ; graduated at Harvard 1819 ; and at Andover Theological Seminary, 1824 ; settled here, April 12, 1826.
Second Orthodox Congregational. - Organized, 1713. Located in the South Parish. George Cowles, pastor. Mr Cowles was born at New Hartford, Ct.,
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March 11, 1798 ; graduated at Yale, 1821, and at Andover, 1824 ; settled here Sept. 12, 1827.
Baptist .- Located at New Mills. Organized 1793. Number of communicants, 150 to 160. Pastor, John Holroyd.
Unitarian .- Located at South Parish ; incorpo- rated June 18, 1825. Pastor, Charles Chauncey Sewall. Mr Sewall was born at Marblehead, May 10, 1802 ; after his collegiate education, studied with Rev. Mr Lamson of Dedham ; settled here April 11, 1827.
First Universalist .- Located at New Mills. Or- ganized Oct. 24, 1829. Pastor, William Henry Knapp ; installed Dec. 25, 1834.
Second Universalist .- Recently established. Lo- cated in the South Parish. Pastor, Rev. Mr Austin. Methodist .- Very recently organized. Located in South Parish.
BANKS.
Danvers Bank .- Incorporated 1825; capital 150,000 dollars. President, Ebenezer Shillaber. Cashier, George A. Osborn. Directors, D. Daniels, D. P. King, J. Tufts, Jr., A. Sawyer, J. Shaw, Jr., E. Poor, Jr., J. B. Peirce, A. J. Tenney, R. S. Daniels, C. L. Frost.
Warren Bank .- Incorporated 1832 ; 120,000 dol- lars, capital. President, Jonathan Shove. Cashier, Augustus K. Osborn. Directors, O. Saunders, J. W. Proctor, H. Poor, G. Tapley, K. Osborn, L. Allen, J. Presson, S. Osborn, Jr., E. Upton, E. Putnam, Benj. Wheeler.
INSURANCE COMPANY.
Danvers Mutual Fire Insurance Company .- Incor- porated 1829. President, Ebenezer Shillaber. Sec- retary, John W. Proctor.
SCHOOLS.
There are thirteen district schools, embracing 1164 scholars. The school appropriation this year is $3000.
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Besides the district, there are a considerable num- ber of private schools, located in the various seetions of the town ; and the estimated amount paid for tui- tion in academies and private schools, is 1050 dollars annually.
MILITARY.
The Danvers Light Infantry, is a well disciplined and handsomely uniformed corps. Captain, William Sutton.
The Danvers Artillery, is also a company of high standing. Captain, Amos Pratt.
Besides these, there are three companies of in- fantry of the line.
ALMS HOUSE.
Keeper-Simeon Galeucia. Average number of subjects, 80.
PUBLIC HOUSES.
Dustin's Hotel, (South Parish), Jonathan Dustin. Essex Coffee House, (South Parish), Benjamin Good- ridge. Public House on the Reading Road, George Southwick. Public House at New Mills, Joseph Porter. Public House on the Plains, Ebenezer G. Perry.
MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS.
Fire Department .- There is a well organized and efficient fire department in this town, embracing a good supply of engines, hose, hooks, ladders, sails, &c.
Libraries, Societies, &.c .- This town has no very extensive libraries ; but there are several small ones. At New Mills there is a Lyceum, with a library of about 300 volumes attached. There is a Fire Club at the Mills, numbering 40 members. There are benevolent or temperance societies in the various sec- tions of the town ; and a Lyceum at South Parish.
State Valuation .- In 1821, this town stood in the State valuation, at $1,011,237 66; it now stands at $1,518,765 73.
Dwellings .- The number of dwellings is 507.
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Highways .- The most travelled of the highways, are : 'The continuation of Boston Street, Salem ; this divides in the South Village into four branches, viz. 1st, the old road from Salem and Danvers to Boston ; this branch again divides about a mile from the South Meeting House, giving off the road to Lynnfield, Reading, Woburn, &c. Second, road to North Read- ing, South Andover, Wilmington, &c. Third, road to Middleton and Andover, direct. Fourth, road to New Mills, uniting with the great road from North Street, Salem, to Topsfield, Haverhill, Rowley, &c .; a branch of this road goes to Beverly, Ipswich, New- buryport, &c., and another to Middleton and Andover. The Newburyport turnpike passes through five miles of the western part of the town.
Governor Endicott's Pear Tree .- It may be men- tioned as an interesting fact, that a pear tree which Gov. Endicott brought from England in 1628, still stands on the farm which he owned, and continues to flourish and bear fruit.
ESSEX.
Essex, was formerly a part of Ipswich, and was incorporated as a parish by the name of Chebacco, in 1679. It became a separate town, receiving its present name, in 1819. It is 25 miles northeast of Boston, and is bounded on the north by Ips- wich, east by Gloucester, west by Hamilton, and south by Manchester. The town is very pleas- antly located, and is at present in a flourishing condition. Formerly the inhabitants were ac- tively engaged in the fishing business ; but of late years this branch of industry, has been almost en- tirely abandoned. Ship building is now pursued with vigor and profit. For four years up to 1834
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the average amount of tonnage annually made, was 2,500 tons; each ton selling at a medium price of $25 ; and the business has been con- stantly increasing since. The timber is rafted from the Merrimack, through Plum Island Sound, and a canal cut across the marshes from Ipswich bay. The little river which puts up from Squam bay, affords the navigation enjoyed by the town.
There are some good farms in Essex. Much fruit is produced and many tons of hay are annu- ally disposed of in the Boston, and Salem markets.
Hon. Rufus Choate, late a Representative in Congress, from Essex South District, is a native of this town.
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POPULATION.
In 1820 the population of Essex was 1107 ; in 1830 it was 1383.
Ratable Polls, 319.
TOWN OFFICERS.
Town Clerk-William Andrews, Jr.
Town Treasurer-David Choate.
Selectmen and Assessors-Nathaniel Burnham, Jr. David Choate, Aaron L. Burnham.
PHYSICIAN, JUSTICES, ETC.
Physician-Josiah Lamson.
Justices of the Peace-Jonathan Story, David Choate.
Post Master-Enoch Low.
RELIGIOUS SOCIETIES.
Orthodox Congregational .- A church was formed here in 1681, and John Wise was the next year or- dained pastor. He was succeeded by Theophilus Pickering, Oct. 23, 1725. . A second society was
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formed in 1745, over which John Cleaveland was ordained, Feb. 25, 1747. Nehemiah Porter was ordained over the first church, Jan. 3, 1750. The two churches united under Mr Cleaveland, 1774, and still continue together. Josiah Webster succeeded Mr Cleaveland, Nov. 13, 1799. Thomas Holt was installed Jan. 25, 1809. Robert Crowell, the present pastor was settled Aug. 10, 1814. Mr Crowell was born at Salem, Dec. 9, 1787, and graduated at Dart- mouth College in 1811. He studied with Rev. Dr Worcester, of Salem. The number of communicants at this church is about 125. A Sabbath School, with about 150 scholars is attached. Their present place of worship was built in 1792.
Christian .- This society was organized in 1808, and their house of worship was erected in 1809. A Sabbath School is attached. They have no settled pastor.
Universalist .- This society was formed in 1829. They have as yet no meeting house, and no settled pastor.
LIBRARIES.
Social Library-300 volumes.
Religious Library, attached to the Congregational Society-250 volumes.
SCHOOLS.
There are seven district schools, comprising 400 scholars. The amount of time for which they are collectively kept, is about 26 months per year. About $300 are annually paid for instruction in academies and private schools.
MILITARY.
One handsome uniform company, and one company of the line.
ALMS HOUSE.
Keeper-Thomas Perkins. Number of subjects, 20. There is a valuable farm attached to the estab- lishment purchased in 1825, containing 100 acres of pland, and 50 acres of marsh. A brick house, meas- ring 50 feet by 30. Cost of the whole $5000.
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STAGES.
A daily stage leaves for Salem ; a stage passes through for Ipswich, every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday ; and one for Gloucester, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
FIRE DEPARTMENT.
One engine, with buckets, hooks and ladders, pur- chased ten years since.
MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS.
Fire Insurance .- A Mutual Fire Insurance Com- pany has very recently been organized here.
Stores and Shops .- There are six stores, and 68 mechanics' shops.
Dwellings .- There are 172 dwellings in the town.
Post Office .- The Essex Post Office was estab- lished in 1821, and now yields to government about $75 per annum.
Land .- There are 600 acres of pasturage, 1400 of wood land, 78 of fresh meadow, 1882 of salt marsh, 406 of tillage, 577 of English and upland mowing, 1200 acres covered with water, and 250 for roads.
Valuation .- Essex stands in the State valuation at $322,298, which somewhat exceeds the assessors' valuation.
Trades, Manufactures, &c .- Two line and twine factories, two tanneries, two grist mills, one carding mill, and three saw mills.
Public House .- There is one public house, kept by Joshua Low.
Debating Club .- A debating club is in operation during the winter season.
Temperance .- There are 500 members of temper- ance societies in the town.
Pensioners .- There are six pensioners, under the law of 1832, who served during the revolutionary war.
Old Families .- It may be stated as an interesting fact, and one indicative of the attachment of the peo- ple to the place, that of 196 families of which the
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town consisted in 1820, fiftytwo were of the name of Burnham, and a large proportion of the residue were of the name of Cogswell and Choate.
Clam Bait .- The clam banks of Essex are a source of profit to many of the inhabitants. From eight hundred to a thousand barrels of clams are dug here annually, and sold, exclusive of barrels and salt, for from $2,50 to $3 per barrel. They are disposed of at Boston, Beverly, Manchester, Marblehead, &c. to be used for bait in the cod fishery.
GLOUCESTER.
GLOUCESTER is a maritime town, comprising the whole of Cape Ann, with a parish on the main land, and is celebrated for the enterprise of its in- habitants in the fisheries and in commercial pur- suits. The promontory, which was named Cape Ann, by Prince Charles, in filial respect to his mother, is joined to the main land by a narrow isthmus not above fifty yards wide, called the Cut, over which the road passes into the harbor; the name " cut" being derived from an early grant in these words : " Upon the 26th of the 5th month, 1643, it is ordered, that Mr Richard Blynman, Pastor, is to cut the beach through and to main- taine it and hath given him three ackers of upland and hee is to have the benefit of it to himselfe and his forever, giveing the Inhabitantes of the Towne free passage." It afforded an easier and shorter passage for vessels passing to or from the eastward, and they were less exposed by keeping in shore.
A fishing and planting station was commenced at Cape Ann, in 1624, by the Dorchester (Eng.) Company, and Thomas Gardner was appointed
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overseer of the planting, and John Tilley of the fishing, for that year. The next year Roger Conant, who had been appointed overseer of both departments, removed hither, bringing Lyford, as minister, and others. But this settlement did not continue long ; it was broken up in the autumn of 1626, and Conant, with most of the company re- moved to Salem. A few years subsequent to the removal of Conant, Rev. Mr Blynman, an ejected minister of Wales, settled here with about fifty others; and this settlement was permanent. The place was incorporated as a "fishing plantation," May 22, 1639; and under another act, May 18, 1642, received the name of Gloucester ; which name, tradition says, was for Gloucester, England, whence some of the principal inhabitants came.
A pretty numerous tribe of Indians dwelt at the Cape at the coming of the whites, and on the ar- rival of the Company at Salem, in the summer of 1630, their chief, Masconomco, went on board the Arabella to welcome the strangers.
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