USA > Massachusetts > Middlesex County > Concord > The history of Concord, Massachusetts > Part 14
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39
Before however leaving the subject of the mill pond, additional mention should be made of its upper limit, which we stated shoaled up and was lost in the direction of Mer- iam's corner. How far it ran in that direction may never be known unless by actual survey, since the nature of the country is such as to hardly disclose it. Doubtless it spread with a shallow depth to the vicinity of Love lane or Hawthorne street. Near here at the time of the Con- cord colonization was a beaver dam, which may indicate that about this place the brook had more than its usual fall ; and if so, perhaps here was the pond's upper termi- nus. But there is no visible sign by which to determine it, neither is there anything to indicate that a portion of the present rich tillage and productive garden lands were for- merly overflowed. The fields stretch themselves in the
162
Colonial
distance and vanish ; the blackbird sings and safely builds its nest there; the dew sparkles on the buttercups in the morning, and in the evening the perfume of a thousand flowers makes fragrant the atmosphere, while tired nature rests all unconscious of the great change of two and a half centuries.
RESIDENCE OF MR. WOODWARD HUDSON
1
CHAPTER XVIII.
Description of Village at Concord Center in Early Times - Streets - House Lots - Robert Meriam's Store - Street Scene - Tavern - Landlord Wil- liam Buss - Rules and Regulations of Ordinaries - Old Time Taverns at Concord.
W ITH a knowledge of the shape and site of the mill pond the way is open for a description of the first village of Concord as it may have existed a score of years after the town's settlement. And here, as of other matters prior to the period of pre- served public record, much is left to be learned by sitting at old firesides and listening to the sparks. But tradition concerning the village roads, and recorded data concern- ing house lots reaches so far back as to enable us correctly to locate some of them.
The earliest street was the "Strate strete" or the "Little Strate strete" by the ridgeway which began or ended at the town's common land, now the public square, and may have extended as a lane, now Lowell street, to Parson Bulke- ley's, and possibly to the river meadow.
From the "Strate strete" at the "Common," as we will call the public square, a narrow causeway crossed at the mill dam, coming out on the west side of it near the old Bank building. This causeway at the time of the Revolu- tionary war and for years afterward was only a few feet wide and was used as a mill path and a short way connect- ing both portions of the village.
A principal or main street ran between the mill dam and the South bridge, the latter then near Nashawtuc. It was very crooked and in its short course partially described
163
I64
Colonial
the letter S twice made. Beginning at the mill dam it passed to the northwesterly around the town's second bury- ing ground, and after running a few rods bent southerly almost to the site of the present Main street. It then turned northwesterly and after running a few rods again bore to the southerly, and passing the great elms on the present Frederick Hudson place crossed at the corner of Main and Thoreau streets, as these are now, and running diagonally toward the southwest, curved at a point across the Fitchburg railroad just beyond the section house, and by the agricultural grounds, leaving a small "heater" piece, now owned by the Boston and Maine R. R. corporation, and thence proceeding northwesterly, ran in a direction approximately parallel to the first few rods from the assumed point of beginning by the mill dam.
The third street, as we will term it, was on or about the site of the present Walden street, and was made it may be, for the two-fold purpose of accommodating the houselots that lay along the west side of the millpond, and also to meet Potter's lane, unless perchance the latter was made to meet this. The "Strate strete" may have early extended or branched off beyond the present Public square in the direction of the North bridge.
Along these roads were the early homes, and because they were there the roads were there. It was here a house and there a house and a path between them. The path, being much traveled by the neighbors and by the cattle, at length became a well recognized public way and in time, by an extension of it, became a county road.
In endeavoring to locate the first houselots along these roads, we can perhaps do no better than to take for our authority the historian, Walcott, whose painstaking researches have been so valuable in the locating of Con- cord's early estates.
On the "Strate strete" near the common was the house- lot of Thomas Dane, which consisted of six and one-half acres, and extended from burial hill to the mill pond ;
ยท
165
Concord
Luke Potter's lot of six and one-half acres was situated on both sides of Potter's lane (Heywood street). Follow- ing the Bay road in an easterly direction there were houselots as follows, occupying both sides of the road and extending to the mill brook: John Farwell, twelve acres ; Thomas Wheeler, Sr., thirteen acres ; Moses Wheat, six- teen acres (Staples place). East of Wheat's on the north side of the road, was the houselot of William Baker, then the lot of William Fletcher, fifteen acres. This lot ran to the brook, and was afterward purchased by Nathaniel Stow; and near it was a lot owned by Peter Bulkeley, Esquire. Then followed the lot of Thomas Burgess, ten acres ; Francis Fletcher, eight acres ; Edward Wright, ten acres ; Eliphalet Fox, eight acres : Nathaniel Ball, thirteen acres ; William Hartwell, nine acres ; John Hartwell ten acres ; William Taylor, eight and three-quarter acres ; and beyond these to the eastward were lots of Caleb and Joshua Brooke, Christopher Wooley and Richard Rice. John Meriam had one and one-half acres at the corner of the Bay road on the south and the Billerica road on the west. Joseph Dane and Thomas Pellet occupied one homestead on the Billerica road.
South of the mill pond, houselots were laid out from what is now Main street by the mill-dam to the almshouse, running to the pond or brook on the north and extending toward the southwest to about Thoreau street. By the mill-dam and nearly opposite the Bank. George Wheeler had eleven acres, near which was Joshua Wheeler's lot of fourteen acres. Robert Meriam had twenty-six acres about the Trinitarian church site. The came John Wheeler's lot of ten and one-half acres (Nathan B. Stow's) Lieut. Joseph Wheeler, twenty acres (George Everett's) ; George Meriam, thirty acres (the Bartlett place) ; Nathan- iel Billings, six acres (Nathan Derby's) ; Samuel Stratton, twenty-four acres (the almshouse).
On or near Main street James Smedley had a lot of eighteen and one-half acres north of and adjacent to the
I66
Colonial
burying ground. Going to the westward was John Hey- wood's lot of four acres, near the burying ground. Then came the lot of William Buss, seven acres. Farther westerly, and beyond the South branch of the river was the houselot of Michael Wood, and later of William Buss, and as has been mentioned, the homestead of Major Simon Willard.
These are the names of some of the people who lived in this first village of Concord, and such the location of their house-lots. That these are all is not to be supposed, for probably about the beginning of the settlement and while under the restraint of a colonial law, which for pru- dential reasons allowed no one to establish a homestead be- yond a certain distance from the meeting-house, all of the colonists had homes in the "middle of the town; and if perchance by an actual survey of the premises about the meeting house, the mill, and the pond basin, spaces of territory should be found which neither record nor tradition has assigned to early householders, we may nevertheless suppose they were owned and occupied by some one, and that there was but little public land in the vicinity.
By colonial custom so far as we have ascertained, the town's common land, with the exception of its burial places and its pound, its house of worship, and ministerial reser- vations, and it may be a small parcel here and there for some general use, - as for a gravel pit, a training field, or fence bote or bridge bote, - was largely outlying.
But the little hamlet was not only well peopled and pro- vided with homes; it also had its store, and tavern, and doubtless its smithy ; for it was in accordance with town usage to give encouragement to the useful artisan to "set up his trade among them," although we know not who it was in Concord at this time who had "set up" a forge.
The village store was situated at or about the spot where the present Trinitarian church stands, and was kept by Robert Meriam. We are not to suppose however that he kept it in a building separate from his dwelling house
167
Concord
for as was not uncommon we believe in the case of store- keeping in the olden time, he may have kept it in an L, or in a room of the house where he lived.
And now for a little space laying aside matters of fact, let us suppose that on a mild October afternoon in the first half of the seventeenth century, Betsey Burgess and Goody Fox descended the ridgeway by a narrow, winding path that led from the meeting house hill, up among the early graves, and passing over the mill dam by a rickety crossing made of slabs, which were laid along the splash boards for a short cut to the mill from the "Strate strete," entered the village store to converse with Concord's first store keeper about the purchase of some "sweetening" for preserving some barberries, which they had just gathered, and to see if he would take in exchange a little spun yarn and some cheese. They found the village store-keeper away, he having gone to Boston for his stock of winter goods. But Goodwife Meriam knew the price list as well as her hus- band, and informed them that she would take the yarn and the cheese, although to take the latter was a little venture- some, since it would be so long before her husband went to Boston again that it might not keep.
While the women were waiting, some one was seen com- ing through Potter's lane, who by his look and step was evidently a stranger. Goodman Luke Potter undoubtedly thought so too, for he was looking down the lane from his dooryard, shading his eyes from the rays of the setting sun and apparently starting to follow him. Presently the trav- eler came up, stopped at the store and inquired for the tavern. Goody Meriam directed him to turn to the left just past Goodman Wheeler's house, then keep on a bit, following the road bend, and he would soon see Sergeant William Buss's Ordinary.
After being directed, the traveler sat down on the door- step as if too weary to go even this distance before resting himself, saying as he did so that he had come from Boston that day and started at sun-rising. Soon there gathered
I68
Colonial
about him a group of villagers, for the news had spread that a stranger was there, each to inquire of events "fur- ther down," of the prices, the newly-arrived ships, and what folks were doing in the lower towns.
As Luke Potter came up, the traveler was just relating something about the late Anabaptist disturbance, and what the prospect was of future peacefulness among the churches. After further conversation concerning ecclesiastical matters, and a little inquiry after the progress of the new township, the traveler arose to leave. Before he started, Goodwife Meriam gave him a posset of warm milk, dipped fresh from a pailful that the hired man was carrying past, and with an expression of thankfulness and well wishes, the stranger started for the Ordinary.
The coast clear, for the villagers scattered when the man went away, Goodwife Meriam informed the two women that although in the Boston price-list, molasses, as quoted by the late visitor, to be sold in "country pay at country prices," was a little higher than at the Concord grocery store, and although the price of cheese had gone down somewhat, yet she would stand by the price just named by her, at the same time informing them that it was her hus- band's practice to sell as he bought, and that as for the cheese, she would wait, and split any possible rise or fall of it and thus divide between them any risk.
But to return to facts, let us next consider the village tavern. This was situated near the spot where the present Public Library stands, and was kept by Sergeant William Buss, who was we conclude, as before stated, a most estim- able citizen, not desiring even in those times to sell "strong water;" for he asked the selectmen to exempt him from so doing when they gave him an inn license.
The sparks do not inform us just where Landlord Buss drew the liquor line. Perhaps between the fermented and the distilled, but however that might be, we believe this ruch at least, that he had a regard for the public weal and that the selectmen who sustained him in his extreme posi-
169
Concord
tion and who considered him, notwithstanding his radical attitude, a most suitable person for the place were also interested in the public well-being.
There is also suggested by the stand taken by Landlord Buss, a query as to whether the many and perhaps too easily made representations in modern times of a gross in- dulgence, and of the prevalence of a lax sentiment on the part of the fathers as to the uses of alcoholic beverages is correct; for if so, then in case Concord was fairly repre- sented by Sergeant Buss and the selectmen, it was evidently in advance of the average town.
To the end that we may know more about old-time taverns, let us suppose that we followed to the Buss tavern the traveler from Boston, who we represented as stopping at the store and inquiring for an ordinary.
As we approached, we met at the doorway Goodwife Anne Buss, who was watching a large flock of domestic fowls picking the barley grains which she had just scattered. She addressed us with the term Mr., which showed that while in accosting strangers there was an absence of the formality of later years, here was neverthelesss shown them marked respect, since it was only when special recognition of one's social standing was intended, that the term Mr. was used, as in the case of a minister, or a magistrate, or perhaps a schoolmaster, or one whose circumstances might entitle him to be considered wealthy, or a "gentleman" after the old-time signification of the term.
Passing through the bar-room we entered the large kitchen. The supper table was set, upon which was placed only average farm fare with the addition of "plum cake," a commodity which was also sold at the bar and was, it may be, a substitute for modern confections.
Supper ended, we returned to the bar-room; and there with a company of villagers, in chairs tipped back against the chimney bricks, and the coarse boards of the "bunk," and the high bar, we sat and talked till the small hours of the night.
170
Colonial
We will not repeat all that was said as it would take too long, but we will tell it in part.
In the first place we will relate about the traveler just referred to. He said he started that morning from the "King's Arms" tavern at the head of Dock square, and stopped at the "King's Head" to obtain the latest marine news, well knowing there would be inquiries as he went inland about the most recent ship arrivals. He crossed by ferry to Charlestown, and called at the "Three Cranes." The only incident that occurred on his journey to Concord was the meeting of Robert Meriam about half-way down, and the assisting to stay up his heavy load of country pro- duce with some willow withes, it having sagged sideways in jolting over the rough road. The stranger's business as he disclosed it was to obtain samples of iron ore said to be deposited in the region of the Assabet, and this with a view of locating a forge there.
While the conversation was going on several more vil- lagers dropped in, among whom was Goodman Heywood who was out looking for us; and the conversation turned on current events, especially on what was going on "down below," as Boston was then called.
In the meantime we were looking around the room and noting its contents. On one side was a bar upon which were a couple of toddy sticks and several tumblers. On the opposite side was the bunk for the hired man to sleep in, that he might be in readiness for night patronage. Upon wooden pegs along the horizontal framework of the room, and the upright timbers, were several powderhorns, an old saddle, a grain sickle, a measuring stick, a pair of sheep shears, a small mash-tub and sieve, a string of spig- ots, a pair of saddlebags, two muskets, and a couple of cowbells.
Behind the bar was a small closet in which were kept a few cordials, such as were considered necessary for funerals, weddings, or other notable occasions ; but we noticed there was no fastening on it, neither was there a lock on the
17I
Concord
outer door of the bar-room, though it opened directly on the road, indicating a prevailing honesty in the neighbor- hood and in the traveling public. Above the mantle-piece were several braids of sweet corn, and onions, between which was a rude cut of Governor Winthrop, and of an English warship.
For awhile, the conversation was upon occurences at Boston ; and among other events spoken of was the then recent great fire, and the burning by the public executioner in the market-place of some books written by two persons purporting to be witnesses and prophets of Jesus Christ. The calling of Rev. John Mayo to be the pastor of Bos- ton's second church, then lately formed, was also discussed, and the execution of Mary Parsons, accused of witchcraft, which although a little stale as news, was a subject still much talked of.
It was very noticeable during the evening that every- thing was well ordered, and that there was no profanity, nor coarse, ribald remarks, nor anything else inconsistent with good breeding. We inquired if in other ordinaries the conduct and conversation of those frequenting them was thus circumspect ; and were informed that they were in general, and that the laws concerning them encouraged it.
We will now pause in our story to give the following facts about old time taverns.
Taverns were early considered a necessity, and hence were established by law. They were usually under the sanction and surveillance of the town officials, who had power to grant, limit, or revoke an innholder's license, either as a victualler or a seller of drinks. The keeper of the public house usually went by the title of landlord, which was often abbreviated to "lan'urd."
The ancient hostelry often had a suggestive or pictur- esque name, which was symbolized by some object upon a sign which swung before it. Some of the early names of Boston taverns were the "Three Mariners," the "Ship Tavern," the "Red Lion" and the "Castle Tavern."
I72
Colonial
In the vicinity of Concord were the "Red Horse Tav- ern" (Wayside Inn), Sudbury, and the "Inn of the Golden Balls" (Jones's Tavern, where the spy John Howe stopped in 1775), Weston.
The keeper of the ordinary might be a deacon, a mili- tary officer, a civil official, or a "Deputy to the General Court." His house was a convenient place for convoca- tions, important or unimportant ; and there might be held in it a parish meeting, a military election, a council of clergymen, a ten-shilling referee case, or an assessors' talk.
So important was the ordinary, that its affairs, such as the establishment of prices, the limitation of patronage, and the quality and quantity of goods to be sold were reg- ulated by colonial law. In order to discourage the use of strong drink at these places, it was enacted about 1634 by the Colonial Court that not over one pence per quart should be charged for ale purchased out of meal times. It was also ordered that not more than a penny a drink should be charged for any beverage. This was done to make the business of dram-selling unprofitable. At another time it was enacted by law that every inn-keeper should sell good beer, lest a traveler for want of it might purchase wine.
A law was passed at an early date, by which a person who might be appointed for the purpose could join a drink- ing company at a tavern, and countermand any order made by it for a drink, in case he believed any were drinking too much, and who could also direct how much liquor could be drunk.
At an early period the law also undertook to discourage certain amusements at inns which were supposed to be deleterious, and dancing was prohibited there even upon marriage occasions.
At one time no tavern keeper was allowed to permit guests to remain at his house drinking or tippling in a loose or idle way. In 1664, a penalty was enacted for rude singing at inns. The court also undertook at one time to decide how much a man might drink without being consid-
I73
Concord
ered drunk ; and the Plymouth Colony lawmakers decided that a man was drunk, when because of strong drink he lisped, or staggered, or vomited. In 1634, the taking of tobacco at inns was forbidden.
The following are some of the prices charged at ordina- ries. In 1634, the price of a meal was six pence. In 1779, in a town adjacent to Concord it was decided that
"A mug of West India flip should cost 15 pence. A mug of New England flip should cost 12 pence.
A good dinner should cost 20 pence.
A common dinner should cost 12 pence.
Breakfast and supper, each, should cost 15 pence. Lodging should cost 4 pence."
These rates may have been higher than usual because of war times.
How long Sergeant William Buss kept the village ordi- nary is not known, but he was keeping it as early at least as 1660; and since there is no record of any prior inn- holder at Concord, it may be that he was there much sooner pursuing the business of a tavern-keeper in a small way furnishing meals and lodgings, while Major Simon Willard, who was licensed to sell "strong water," acted as the village tapster.
In the first century of its settlement, Concord had sev- eral taverns. In 1666, John Hayward kept one on the main street. Later, the "Black Horse Tavern" was well known to the traveling public, although this may have been identical with the foregoing. The "Wright Tavern" was established in 1747, and kept open as a public house until the War of the Revolution. Of another tavern in this vicinity Hon. John S. Keyes states : "Previous to the Revolution Ephraim Jones kept a tavern at the west end of the main street burying ground in a large roomy house that had grown by various additions, perhaps from that of John Hayward. The site of this, now the fine lawn of
1
I74
Colonial
Colonel R. F. Barrett's residence, was close to the old wooden jail, and feeding the prisoners was part of the tavern-keeper's business."
It doubtless not infrequently occurred in early times, that tavern-keeping was evolved from some other occupa- tion or was carried on with it. The process might be first farming, and an occasional entertainment of travelers and then a full-fledged inn. Public patronage being scant, one could hardly afford to give much time to it. There was com- paratively little communication of place with place, when public entertainment was required. Moreover, parties journeying or teaming often took their food with them, and stopping wherever overtaken by noon or night, re- freshed themselves from the lunch box without regard to form. Indeed, this was in accord with the conventional method. Anything then was fashionable, that was matter of honest economy, and the landlord deducted from his bill of charges the price of bread and cheese in his patron's victual basket, as a matter of course.
It was a late hour when the company about the bar-room fireplace broke up, and as we left Landlord Buss and bade him good-night, it was with regret that our acquaintance should be so brief and our stay so short at an old-time tavern, and there came forcibly to our minds the words of Shenstone :
"Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round, Where'er his stages may have been, May sigh to think that he has found His warmest welcome at an inn."
Along the willows that spread themselves by the wayside we walked to our host's quiet home, where, after listening for a little time to the monotonous roaring of the rolling dam, and thinking of the strangeness of the surroundings, we fell asleep, and slumbered undisturbed until the soft sunlight came streaming into the east window, and awak- ened us just in season to salute the miller as he was going to open the mill house.
HENRY D. THOREAU
CHAPTER XIX.
The New England Village - Its Origin and Equip- ment - The Village Doctor - His Medicines and Charges - Early Physicians of Concord : Read, Prescott, Minot, Heywood - The Village Magis- trate - Condition of Colonial Jurisprudence - First Lawyer at Concord - History of John Hoar.
B EFORE leaving the subject of the primitive village of Concord, a few words relative to early New Eng- land village life may be appropriate and may sug- gest some practical lessons, since from it influences have gone forth that have been happily formative, and since about it cluster associations pleasant to contemplate. In these villages was centralized the life of the communities called townships, and from them radiated what little of fashion or style of living was recognized, where the tend- ency was for every man to be a law unto himself. In the village, if anywhere were supposed to be "up to date" methods ; there if at all was an acknowledged leadership. It was also a sort of local exchange or market place. As it came in contact more frequently with the traveling public it was supposed to possess the latest news, and as there were held all the convocations, it was considered a privi- leged place to dwell in. In short, it may be true that the early village was to the remainder of the town what the city has since become to the country generally, in so far at least as relates to the tendency of the latter to imitate the former and to rely upon it for outside news, conventionalities and artificial commodities.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.